Tag Archives: Travel

Escape to Paradise – Rocky Mountain Magic!

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July 2025 – We got a very late start for our summer RV travels this year as we madly finished our upgrades and repairs on our new trailer, and we kept postponing our departure. Temps were already peaking at 108 degrees when we finally got it all together and left home. Yikes! We made a beeline from central Arizona to the highest elevations we could find in Colorado, and in no time we were basking in the Rocky Mountains!

Rocky Mountain Magic in an RV

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The first few nights we stayed at Bonito Campground outside of Flagstaff to get our RVing legs under us. Then we crossed the Navajo Reservation into Colorado and found an overnight spot along the Dolores River. We’d gone from 108 degrees at home to 92 degrees in Flagstaff to 89 degrees in Dolores. Definite improvement, but it was still hot!

Dolores River Colorado

The Dolores River in Colorado.

An early morning walk along the Dolores River was absolutely delightful — and cool. The river was rushing over the rocks and we found a very scenic spot to stop and admire the views and take some pics.

Morning on the Dolores River Colorado

Our trail scout pauses for a pic with Mark.

We continued on past Rico and soon arrived at Trout Lake, a place we had visited two years prior and absolutely loved. As you fly by on the highway, there’s a tiny pullout just big enough for one vehicle. We stopped there and got some fabulous photos of this stunning alpine lake. What a view! What a place!!

Trout Lake Colorado

Trout Lake, Colorado

Once settled in at 10,000’ elevation, we soaked up the cool temps, happily exchanging shorts for long pants and even jackets in the mornings and evenings.

It felt funny to be in long pants, but as the daily summer afternoon thunderstorm pattern began to emerge, we were grateful we’d packed some winter-wear. We’d packed hastily, though, and I could have used another mid-weight jacket and a winter hat!!

Pup relaxing by his RV in Colorado

Buddy didn’t need any extra winter clothes…!

The water leaks that had plagued our shakedown cruises since January continued, unfortunately, and among the hastily-not-packed items was Mark’s big toolbag! After a few days and a few trips to the hardware store, he was able to tame the leaks enough to carry on with our summer journey, although at one point he was ready to admit defeat and head home!

Thank goodness bright sunshine filled our RV windows and souls the next morning, and Mark found a way to minimize the leaks.

The fundamental problem causing the water leaks in this trailer (and in many other later model RVs) is that two types of water pipes are used: Pex and braided. The braided lines have an infinitesimally larger inner diameter than the pex lines, yet the same Pex fittings are used at every junction. So, even if you tighten the Pex fittings on the braided line as tight as possible, the tube spins freely on the fitting and water leaks out!

But we kept our focus on the beauty around us and, as always, Buddy’s happy demeanor was infectious. He was in dog heaven all day every day. He loved his freedom, hanging out around the trailer and hunting little varmints whenever he had the chance.

We encouraged his hunting when Mark opened the hood of the truck one day and found himself face to face with a big fat pack rat. Argh!! So, we set out a few oversized glue traps. Next morning they’d been dragged away from the truck engine by something large! Over the next two days we caught two field mice in the truck and one in the trailer. Good grief!!

From then on we asked Buddy every day if there was a “mouser” in the truck or trailer, and he’d sniff around and let us know. Usually the answer was “No,” but one time it was a definite “YES!” and he scampered all around under the truck, sniffing in the wheel wells, whimpering and looking up at us hopefully as if to say, “Help me catch it!”

Patient dog waits outside travel trailer RV

Buddy loved his freedom and loved hunting varmints too!

We did a lot of exploring, and the views everywhere were sensational. Brooding clouds filled the sky most afternoons and we had a lot of rain and even some serious downpours with hail!

Mountains and dirt road near Telluride Colorado

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It is surprising how much salmon colored red rock there is in the mountain peaks in this part of Colorado’s Rocky Mountains. The unexpected pink hue that peeked out between curtains of gray added a special vibrance to every vista.

Snowy mountain peak in Colorado Rocky Mountains

Many of the mountain peaks are very colorful on top.

Rocky Mountains in Colorado

“Colorado” means “colored” in Spanish.

We arrived when the wildflowers were in full bloom, and what a gorgeous display it was. From bright smiling sunflowers to exquisite columbines, to tiny intricately decorated round petaled flowers to sweet little periwinkle blue bells, they were all delightful and they blanketed the meadows and hillsides. Even the humble pink and white clover flowers were lovely.

Sunflowers in Colorado

Smiling faces of yellow sunflowers.

Columbine Colorado State Flower

Colorado’s unique state flower — the Columbine.

Columbine Colorado State Flower

Morning dew on a sweet little wildflower.

Periwinkle blue bell shaped wildflower in Coloraod

Pretty bells for elves.

Delicate alpine wildflower in Colorado

These little flowers were just a half inch from edge to edge.

Clover wildflower

Even the humble clover were beautiful.

We walked along soft paths through the woods and spotted animals here and there. Deer wandered past at leisure and a moth settled on a flower long enough for me to catch its photo.

We even saw an elk one afternoon, but our cameras weren’t ready!

Path through the forest in Colorado

The trails through the woods were very inviting.

Deer in Colorado

A deer wandered past late one afternoon.

A moth lands on a flower

A moth perched on a flower.

Memories of the lives we’d left at home in baking hot Arizona soon faded away as if into a far distant dream.

Sweeping vistas filled with stately pines, rolling meadows and wildflowers that had been so exotic when we first arrived slowly became a natural part of our day-to-day lives. We also got used to being damp and bundled up in extra clothing, drinking mug after mug of hot tea to warm up!

Time stood still and the rhythm of our RVing lives began to take shape.

One morning we awoke to smoke filling the air and obscuring the sunrise. Several wildfires caused by lightning had popped up nearby, so the source of this veil of smoke was within 50 miles.

Smoky sky at dawn in Colorado

Smoky sunrise.

That same day, we learned of the tragic loss of the iconic lodge at Grand Canyon’s North Rim where a “controlled burn” was allowed to get out of control and ultimately destroy the much loved historic landmark and all the surrounding cabins. It was an unspeakable tragedy.

We had debated up until the very last moment before leaving home whether we should dash to the high country via northern Arizona into Utah or via northeastern Arizona into Colorado.

Heading to Utah had been the plan until a slight change in weather forecasts sent us to Colorado instead. If we’d gone to Utah as planned, we would have been at Jacob Lake and the North Rim at the time of the fires and evacuations. We were so grateful for our last minute change in plans!

We stayed in this area for nearly two weeks, collecting endless photos of the fabulous mountain views in between dramatic thunderstorms, hailstorms and rain storms!

Storm clouds over Trout Lake Colorado

Storm clouds over Trout Lake Colorado

Colorful Rocky Mountains in Colorado

Dramatic color in the mountains.

Rocky Mountains in Colorado

The color begins to shift from the mountains to the sky.

Sunset in the Colorado Rocky Mountains

A vibrant sunset in the Rockies.

Sunset in the Rocky Mountains of Colorado

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During our stay we made several trips to nearby Mountain Village and Telluride where the rich and famous hang out both summer and winter. What a fun change of pace it was to go from natural alpine beauty to fashionable ski lodges, elegant eateries and shopping and mansions filling the mountainsides!

As we’ll share with you in our next post, it was summertime, and the living was easy!

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Sunset Crater Nat’l Monument – Lava & Camels at Bonito CG!

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May 2025 – Sunset Crater National Monument is a little jewel near Flagstaff, Arizona, that showcases the remains of a massive volcanic eruption that happened around 1085 AD.

Next door to Sunset Crater is one of our all-time favorite campgrounds, Bonito Campground. This was our “go to” campground when we lived in Phoenix and escaped out of the city every weekend with a popup tent trailer. Bonito has paved loops and is set in a forest of beautiful towering ponderosa pines growing in ancient volcanic cinders.

Best of all, something really exotic happened at the campground while we were there!

Sunset Crater Lava Flow and Bonito Campground Camels

Always expect the unexpected!

Bonito Campground is next to a wonderful scenic drive that takes you to several overlooks and hikes through the lava flows in Sunset Crater National Monument. Although the volcano erupted 1,000 years ago, in many ways it looks like it blew its top last year.

This scenic Loop Road also takes you to some well preserved ancient Indian ruins at Wupatki National Monument.

Sunset Crater Loop Road Scenic Drive

The Loop Road through Sunset Crater National Monument offers some fantastic views.

After repairing all the problems that had happened on our first three “shakedown cruises” with our new 2024 Alpha Wolf 17CB travel trailer and also installing a solar power system, we decided to take a fourth shakedown cruise to Bonito Campground which offers only dry camping campsites.

It was a wonderful 8 day getaway and the solar power system performed beautifully (I’ll write more about that in another post). However, the plumbing system sprang three leaks under the bathroom sink on the very first day. That kept Mark busy doing repair work for most of that day. Sigh.

On the bright side, it’s a very cool area. We explored the woods and meadow where we had views of the San Francisco peaks. And we saw a beautiful sunset over the volcano one evening.

Girl and her dog San Francisco Peaks Flagstaff Arizona

In late May the San Francisco Peaks still had snow but Buddy and I were warm in the sunny meadow. The tallest peak is over 12,000′ in elevation!

Sunset Crater National Monument Arizona

Looks like it blew its top just a while ago!

Even though we’ve visited this campground many times, we discovered a fantastic area of cinder lakes and lava rocks right off the far back end of the campground that we’d never noticed before.

When the volcano erupted, molten lava was spewed everywhere. When it cooled, a vast field of super sharp and craggy black lava boulders was left behind. In between these jagged rocks and on the edges of the lava flow, black sand cinder “lakes” were formed. The land looks like a moonscape!

Cinder Lake Sunset Crater National Monument

A flat area of cinder sand resembles a lake in many ways.

Lava and cinders Sunset Crater National Monument

Outcroppings of lava rocks poke through the cinder lake sand.

It was really fun to prowl around in this area.

In some places the molten lava formed into huge boulders. They were piled haphazardly and were surprisingly loose and unstable. When they wiggled and rocked as we climbed over them, they clanged with a metallic kind of sound! We had to be super careful because many of the lava rocks were unstable.

The rocks are super sharp too, so we had to keep our hands off of them. So much for stabilizing ourselves as we moved from wiggly rock to the next!

In between the lava rock piles there were black sand trails that seemed to have been naturally created as the wind blew and sand shifted. Buddy loved exploring all of this too and wisely stuck to the sandy paths.

Lava flow Sunset Crater National Monument Arizona

With carefully placed footsteps you could get through the area on natural black sand trails.

Lava Flow Sunset Crater National Monument

Some areas were quite forbidding and required slow and thoughtful movements!

Buddy was on the lookout for Mark and after searching around he finally found him. The sun was high in the sky and the black cinder sand was getting hot underfoot. So they sat down under a tree and had a nice chat!

Puppy in the Lava and cinders Sunset Crater National Monument

Buddy scans the area for Mark.

Deciding what to do next

Buddy listens intently as Mark explains how volcanoes erupt and create lava flows.
Or maybe they were just discussing what to have for lunch!

Back at our enormous campsite in the campground, Buddy insisted on a game of “Chase the Frisbee” and Mark threw it all over the place.

Puppy runs after a frisbee

Catch that frisbee!

He also started digging to China in the cinder sand. He looked up at us for a moment and we laughed. He was a little Cinder Fella!

Cinder Fella

Our little Cinder Fella!

In the campsite next to us a big family with 7 kids showed up. They strung up three hammocks, one above the other, and had a ball climbing in and out of each one. It looked like so much fun!

We thought some of the kids might bed down in the hammocks for the night since the family had set up just one medium sized tent. But they all ended up squeezing into the tent!

Triple hammocks at the campground

“Hey, whatcha doin’ down there?”

Two of our favorite things we look forward to seeing at Bonito Campground are the Steller’s jays that flit about all over the place and the Evening Primrose flowers that bloom all night and close up when the sun rises. Sure enough, they were there and didn’t disappoint.

Stellars Blue Jay Flagstaff Arizona

A Steller’s jay keeps an eye on me.

Evening Primrose Bonito Campground Flagstaff Arizona

The evening primroses are completely closed by midmorning!

One of the highlights of Sunset Crater National Monument is the Lava Flow Trail. This is a paved trail that goes through part of the lava flow.

It is the only area in Sunset Crater National Monument where dogs are allowed. So Buddy was very pleased to be invited. The trail is only about 1/2 mile, but we saw quite a few dogs out walking with their owners.

Puppy and person talking

“Are you ready to go for a hike?”
“Yes!”.

Lava Flow Trail Sunset Crater National Monument

The Lava Flow Trail is a sidewalk that winds through the landscape. Both dogs and people love it!

The Lava Flow Trail has some gorgeous views of the cinders. Several hillsides are covered with a layer of cinders and sparse vegetation. Some of the cinders are black and some are red, and in one spot there’s a little bit of each. This made for a very cool image.

Red and black cinders at the Lava Trail Sunset Crater National Monument

Red and black cinders on the Lava Flow Trail.

A huge forest fire in 2022, the Tunnel Fire, swept through the area and there are a lot of burnt logs and stumps as well as the remains of beautiful ponderosa pines. One tree skeleton in particular caught my eye because it looked like a person raising his hands before him in welcome or perhaps in reverence.

A tree's ghost raises its arms to the heavens

This ghost of a tree looked eerily like a person with raised arms.

One afternoon when we were lounging in our campsite we heard a cowbell. That was odd!

The cowbell got louder and louder. We looked up and were shocked to see two people riding camels!! What on earth?!

The guy in the back was dressed in a Civil War officer’s uniform! We instantly grabbed our cameras and began running after them as they cruised around the campground loop.

Camels arrive in Bonito Campground for a talk about the US Camel Corps in Arizona_

Two people came riding through the campground on camels, one dressed as a Civil War officer!

It turned out that they were doing a campground presentation for everyone and the cow bell was meant to get our attention so we’d follow them to the amphitheater area.

The original amphitheater appears to have been destroyed in the huge 2022 wildfire and/or flooding aftermath. Fortunately, the rangers still do their talks, but rather than the audience sitting on benches in the amphitheater, everyone brings their own camp chairs to a small hillside to listen. It was wonderfully spontaneous as everyone in the campground gathered together for this talk.

We’ve seen several really good talks at Bonito Campground, and this one about the 1850s US Military Camel Corps was no exception.

Bonito Campground talk about the US Camel Corps in Arizona

We were given the most wonderful ranger talk about the US Military Camel Corps of the 1850s and 60s!

The man in the uniform was impersonating the military officer who, back in 1855, was appointed by the Secretary of War, Jefferson Davis, to sail to the Mediterranean and buy a bunch of camels to be used by the US Military as beasts of burden for operations in the Southwest!

The idea at the time was that camels were perfectly suited to the dry and hot conditions of the Southwest, and the plan was to form a US Military Camel Corps.

As our lecturer pointed out, the officer had probably never seen a camel before! However, he managed to procure 33 camels from various Middle Eastern countries and brought them back (there was a bonus calf born during the voyage to America too!).

We learned that there are two types of camels, the double-humped camel from Asia and the single-humped dromedary from Africa, and they had brought one of each type for the talk. Because of their different humps they had different saddles on their backs!

Camels at Bonito Campground Flagstaff

The single-humped African dromedary is on the left and the double-humped Asian camel is on the right.

They made funny faces at us as we listened to the lecture by the Civil War military officer (actually a camel expert and handler in disguise!).

One hum dromedary camel from Africa

The dromedary made an old grandma face at us.

Whatcha lookin at?

Not to be outdone, the Asian camel did a good teenager sneer!

The 1850s US Military Camel Corps was gradually expanded to over 1,000 animals and many camel handlers from Arab nations came with them. However, even though multiple long distance “test” journeys proved that camels were far superior pack animals in the desert Southwest than mules and horses could ever dream of being, in the end the experiment was discontinued and sadly recorded in history as a failure.

In part, this was because Jefferson Davis, who backed the US Military Camel Corps wholeheartedly, defected to become President of the Confederate States of America in 1861. In addition, the outbreak of the Civil War diverted the entire US Military budget to funding the war effort.

It was also clear from experiments that camels would perform terribly in traditional combat situations, making them useless for the Civil War. Lastly, they were notorious for being ill-tempered animals. So, in the end, they could only be used for exploratory expeditions under the watchful eye of patient handlers. Ultimately, the camels were rounded up and sold off and some were released into the wild.

As many RVers know, one of the Syrian handlers who cared for the camels ended up staying in the United States and lived out his life in Quartzsite, Arizona. His name in Arabic sounded like the words “Hi Jolly” which became his nickname.

There is now a plaque and small pyramid in Quartzsite that commemorates this handler and this unusual piece of American history.

The Hi Jolly monument in Quartzsite Arizona honors Syrian camel handler "Hi Jolly" who came to America in 1856 and died in Quartzsite in 1902.

This monument in Quartzsite Arizona honors Syrian camel handler “Hi Jolly.”
He came to America in 1856 to be part of the US Military Camel Corps and died in Quartzsite in 1902.

During the talk we learned about how camels store water in their fat-filled humps. That’s why they don’t need to drink water very often and actually had no thirst whatsoever during the long experimental journeys they made across the desert in the mid-1800s.

We also had a chance to see the dromedary’s teeth! Yikes!

Camels and a Civil War general at Bonito Camgrpound in Flagstaff Arizona

We learned about camels and about their experimental use in the Southwestern American deserts

The general shows the dromedary came's teeth to the crowd

We also got a quick glimpse of the camel’s teeth.

Everyone loved this unusual lecture, and when our lecturer took questions from the audience the eager hands of both kids and adults shot up!

Q&A at the Campground talk on the 1800s US Camel Corps in Arizona

Lots of hands went up during the Q&A afterwards.

Last and best of all, the kids were allowed to come up and meet the camels face to face and pet them too.

Kids pet teh camels at Boniro Campground in Flagstaff Arizona

The camels knelt down so the kids could pet them.

Dogs had been openly invited to attend the lecture as long as they were on a leash, but not everyone got the memo. On our way back to our campsite we passed a van whose owners had left their beloved dog behind while they took off and learned about the US Military Camel Corps.

The dog patiently waited for them behind the wheel of the van and watched the whole event through the windshield. I couldn’t resist taking a photo!

The owners were walking right behind us, and they said that’s where their pup likes to be whenever they’re go somewhere — right in the driver’s seat!

Dog in the driver's seat

On our way back to the trailer we saw a dog who’d watched the whole thing from the driver’s seat of his van!

If you have a chance, go camping at Bonito Campground and spend some time in the lava flows at Sunset Crater!

Sunset Crater National Monument showcases a dormant volcano!

Sunset Crater National Monument is a fun destination.

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Mogollon Rim, AZ – Cool Pines & Peaceful Willow Springs Lake

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July-August 2024 – Arizona is known for its very hot desert areas, but the northern part of the state is filled with cool mountains, towering ponderosa pine trees and fabulous lakes. This is where everyone goes in the heat of the summer!

Willow Springs Lake Arizona on the Mogollon Rim

Willow Springs Lake on the Mogollon Rim in Arizona

So we packed up our new tent a few times over the summer and headed north to the Mogollon Rim (pronounced “Mug-ee-one”). The Mogollon Rim is a geological escarpment on the edge of the Colorado Plateau that was created by erosion and faulting. This resulted in sheer and dramatic 1,000′ cliffs for many miles. The immense views from the top go on forever.

Dog at Mogollon Rim Arizona

Buddy kept an eye out for rabbits while we walked the edge of the Mogollon Rim and savored the views.

Mogollon Rim Arizona

Huge boulders and sheer cliffs define this special place.

Mogollon Rim Arizona

Gnarly tree roots hunt for water and lichen clings to the faces of the boulders while we explore the edge of “The Rim,” as it is affectionately known to Arizonans.

The views from the Mogollon Rim are outstanding year round, of course, and the pine woods are a great place for desert dwellers to play in the snow in the middle of winter. But in summertime one of the best things about the Mogollon Rim is its cool refreshing lakes.

Woods Canyon Lake is the largest and most well known of the lakes. Small Spillway Campground is on the eastern shore and larger Woods Canyon Campground is on the road heading in. These are very busy places, though, and the area was undergoing construction while we were there. So we took a peak at it all but didn’t stay.

Fortunately, heaven was awaiting us at nearby Willow Springs Lake! This scenic lake is much less visited and is the very essence of peacefulness and tranquility. The water is crystal clear, and in the early mornings it was glassy smooth.

Willow Springs Lake Arizona Glassy water

Glassy water at Willow Springs Lake.

Mirror water at Willow Springs Lake Arizona

Willow Springs Lake offers a peaceful escape.

Willow Springs Lake Arizona clear water

Underwater and above water, Willow Springs Lake is lovely.

Crystal clear water Willow Springs Lake Arizona

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There was wildlife too. Ducks swam and quacked, and dogs played happily and sniffed around the shore, including our pup, Buddy!

Duck at Willow Springs Lake Arizona

There’s wild wildlife at Willow Springs Lake.

Dog sneaks between ponderosa pines at Willow Springs Lake Arizona

And there’s not-so-wild wildlife too!

At one point Buddy led us off into the woods where he’d found a pile of rocks and a cross with a musical G-clef on it. Whose story lies here, we’ll never know.

The day the music died Arizona

The day the music died…

On a brighter note, summer flowers were blossoming in the sun everywhere, giving a splash of color to the blues and greens of the woods, lake and sky.

Summer flowers Coconino National Forest Arizona

A tree was full of these gorgeous pink blossoms.

Yellow columbine flowers at Willow Springs Lake Arizona

Yellow columbines were blooming by the water.

For outdoor lovers, there’s lots to do at Willow Springs Lake, and Sinkhole Campground is within walking distance.

A hiking trail goes around the lake, although we were told the trail vanishes in spots. “Just keep the lake in view until the trail reappears again,” we were told. We didn’t go all the way around but loved rock hopping and following the pine needle trail for a good ways.

Kayaking and paddle-boarding are also popular ways to enjoy the tranquility of this lake.

Willow Springs Lake Arizona Kayak

Will Springs Lake is a kayaker’s delight.

But fishing is where it’s at! Most folks claim a spot for a few hours, cast a line and bask in the peace and quiet as they wait for the fish to bite.

Fisherman at Willow Springs Lake Arizona

When it comes to favorite pastimes at Willow Springs Lake, nothing tops fishing!

Fishing boat at Willow Springs Lake Arizona

Whether fishing from shore or from a boat, lots of anglers had a line in the water.

Fishing at Willow Springs Lake Arizona

Peace.

One little boy’s father caught a few fish for dinner, and the boy proudly held up the string to show us.

A string of fish caught at Willow Springs Lake Arizona

We heard his mom cooks these to perfection!

But when his father caught another fish, the little boy suddenly began to cry. He was utterly grief stricken that the fish was going to die.

He kept saying, “No, no, no!” and he flung himself on the ground in distress. His genuine excitement at the day’s catch and then his full blown sorrow that the fish would lose its life were touchingly innocent and dear.

Our little boy, the furry kind, loved Willow Springs Lake. He’s a total water dog — as long as it doesn’t involve getting wet above the armpits! So he waded in the shallows, cooled off his feet and drank his fill. Then he flopped down in the dirt.

Happy pup at Willow Springs Lake Arizona

It’s a dog’s life!

Since we’d been camping for a few days, Mark suddenly got the idea that this would be a great place to give Buddy a rinse and get some of the camping dust out of his fur.

Buddy thought otherwise!

Dog bath at Willow Springs Lake Arizona

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Fortunately, the bathing mission was accomplished, despite the scowl, and he was a clean dog once again! He dried off quickly and became our usual sweet and fluffy bed fellow when we got back to our tent!

Happiness is a warm puppy...n a tent!

Snugglebugs.

Most RV snowbirds that visit Arizona in the wintertime leave long before it’s warm enough to camp up on the Mogollon Rim. But for Arizona natives and for RVers that brave a trip to the Copper State in the summertime, the Mogollon Rim is a wonderful destination.

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Beehive Trail in Arizona – A “Mini Wave” hike by Lake Powell

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May 2024 — On our recent RV trip to Lake Powell we came across a fun little hike that is near Lake Powell, just over the Glen Canyon Dam from town of Page, Arizona. It’s called the Beehive Trail, and it’s pretty obvious why: the predominant rock formation resembles a beehive!

Beehive Trail Arizona - hiking in the red rocks by Lake Powel

Hiking the Beehive Trail is lots of fun!

The whole area is a wide expanse of relatively flat boulders, and you can head in any direction from the trailhead. However, if you like to follow a real trail, the National Park Service (managers of Glen Canyon Recreation Area where Beehive Ttrail is located) has outlined a path across the boulders using two lines of small rocks to show their suggested route.

Our Trail Scout (our beloved pup, Buddy) promptly hopped on the trail and showed us the way.

The Trail Scout leads us to the Bee Hive

Buddy, our Trail Scout, bounded ahead of us on the Beehive Trail.

What makes this rock formation very “beehive-like” is the thin layers of rocks that lie like shingles overlapping each other very slightly.

The side of the namesake Bee hive on Beehive Trail Arizona

Narrow “shingles” adorn the sides of the beehive.

The thin lines curve this way and that, making wonderful patterns everywhere.

Swirling patters in the rocks on the Beehive Trail near Page Arizona

Curvy layers.

Beehive Traile rock patterns Page Arizona

Straight layers.

Pup on the Beehive Trail in northern Arizona

A mix of layers leading up to Buddy!

People compare these layered undulations to The Wave, a nearby sandstone formation that resembles a fabulous curling ocean wave. Both formations were undoubtedly created by similar forces: small trickles of water rolling downhill followed by extended periods of very high wind.

The hike was super easy, but we kept getting waylaid by the fantastic shapes and contours that begged to be photographed.

Beehive hike rock patterns Arizona

Creases and layers on the side of the beehive.

Beehive Traile rock patterns in Arizona

Such great patterns!

Beehive Trail near Lake Powell Arizona

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We ended up doing the hike several times at various times of the day, and each time it was a completely different hike.

The spring flowers were blooming, but we discovered that some of them liked to sleep in in the morning! So, if we got out on the trail too early they were all closed up! Later in the day, though, they blossomed to their fullest.

There were a few magenta cactus flowers in bloom here and there, and late one afternoon we noticed one that was backlit. So pretty!

Cactus flower

These humble cacti burst with color each spring!

Backlit cactus flower on the Bee Hives hike near Page Arizona

The cactus flower wore a halo when the sun shone through its petals.

Early in the morning, we found evening primroses that were still opened up. Once the sun had ascended into the heavens, these delicate flowers quietly closed, saving their beauty for the next evening.

Primroses blooming on the Bee Hives Hike in Arizona

Evening primroses were still open in the earliest morning light.

The whole hike is about 45 minutes if you follow the loop trail and circle around the beehive rock formation in the middle without stopping too much, but we just couldn’t go that fast. This was a special moonscape that was worth savoring, even sitting down!

Photography in the rocks on the Beehive Trail near Page Arizona

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Our favorite time was late in the afternoon. Not so late that the sun was setting, because by then all the shadows were gone and the landscape flattened out. But a bit before sunset when the sun cast a burnt orange glow across the red rocks.

Guiding rocks on the Beehive Trail near Page Arizona

The beehives beckon at the end of the day.

Buddy loved being out there, and we always conferred with him about which direction we’d go.

Conferring on the hiking trail at Bee hive Arizona

“Which way?”

He liked posing amid the rock formations too. He’d run ahead and then pose as he waited for us slowpokes to come along.

Happy pup on the Beehive Trail in Arizona

Buddy waits patiently for us, his colors blending in with the surroundings.

Like a true model, he took different poses and faced in different directions.

Happy pup on the Beehive Trail near Lake Powell Arizona

“Do you like my front side?”.

Happy pup doing the Beehive Trail

“Or my left side?”

The trail scout leads the way on the Beehive Trail in Arizona

“Or my back side?”

There were some fabulous rock pinnacles at the furthest point in the hike. You can clamber up to the base of these pinnacles or even scramble up the sides. Peering into the crack between two of these pinnacles we found a little oasis of scrub brush and small trees in a huge sandstone bowl.

Golden hour on the Beehive Trail near Glen Canyon Dam Arizona

We spotted a hiker between the pinnacles in the distance.

We saw other hikers each time we hit the trail, but it is the kind of place that is so expansive you never feel crowded.

Beehive Trail near Page and Lake Powell Arizona

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We highly recommend giving the Beehive Trail a try. It is located just west of Glen Canyon Dam on US-89.

Beehive Trail Glen Canyon Recreation Area Arizona by Lake Powell

What a lovely surprise this hike turned out to be.

If you’re looking for a spot to camp, there’s a tiny campground right there opposite the trailheadl. There are only six sites and it is an extremely exposed and dusty place, especially when the wind howls in the afternoon. But it works if you don’t mind hiding inside when the dust flies. It is first-come-first-serve, and it fills up quickly during the peak spring and fall seasons.

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Lake Powell – Heart of Glen Canyon National Recreation Area

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May 2024 – Spectacular Glen Canyon on the Arizona/Utah border was transformed into Lake Powell when the Colorado River was blocked by a big dam in 1963, creating one of the largest manmade lakes in the US. Today, Glen Canyon Recreation Area is a fabulous place to enjoy the outdoors, and we went there last week to do a little exploring.

The beauty of the Lake Powell as it snakes through the Glen Canyon on the approach to the dam is truly awe-inspiring.

Lake Powell in Glen Canyon National Recreation Area with a boat weaving between the cliffs

A boat weaves between the walls of Glen Canyon on Lake Powell.

The views change throughout the day as the light changes. Although the most magical times are at the beginning and end of the day, we thoroughly enjoyed driving the scenic road to Wahwheap that goes past several overlooks. The water was a rich dark blue, making a wonderful contrast to the whites and browns of the cliff walls.

Glen Canyon Dam and Lake Powell Arizona

Glen Canyon Dam was responsible for creating gorgeous Lake Powell.

Lake Powell Arizona near Glen Canyon Dam 2

These are the tops of Glen Canyon’s very steep cliff walls.

We could see boats far below cruising the twisting path through Glen Canyon. What a fun way to see it!

Boats on Lake Powell Wahwheap Overlook Arizona RV trip 2

What a unique boat ride this would be!

Boats on Lake Powell Wahwheap Overlook Arizona RV trip

Coming and going…

In the distance we could see Wahwheap Marina which is loaded with houseboats and big cruising boats along with smaller power boats. Many are available for rent, and we made a mental note to return someday to get out on the water. It wasn’t in the cards for this trip, though.

Wahwheap Marina Lake Powell Arizona 2

Wahwheap Marina is set against a jaw-dropping backdrop!

Wahwheap Marina on Lake Powell Arizona RV trip

Not a bad place to have a boat — and some of them are huge!

The size and scale of the Glen Canyon Dam hydroelectric project is staggering. Lake Powell began filling with water on March 13, 1963. It didn’t finish filling up until seventeen years later on June 22, 1980!

On a plaque by the dam there are photos of Sentinel Rock which towered 200 feet in the air from the banks of the Colorado River at the bottom of the canyon before the dam was built. Once the lake was full, Sentinel Rock was submerged under 300 feet of water!

The lake is not a big round lake. Instead it consists of a long arm of the Colorado River with 90 water filled side canyons coming off of it on either side like tentacles. One of the best spots to see these bright blue tentacles is at Glen Canyon dam.

Lake Powell RV trip Wahwheap Overlook Arizona

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Lake Powell Arizona near Glen Canyon Dam

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Over 5 million people visit the Glen Canyon Recreation Area which each year. They come for all kinds of outdoor fun from boating to hiking, camping, taking photos and playing in the water. Spring and Fall are great because the weather is warm but not too hot. All summer long, the lake teems with people and boats.

The whole area is rich with breathtaking sights, and a drive along US-89 is a journey past towering red rock drama. Now-famous Horseshoe Bend is just a few miles south of Glen Canyon Dam. Amazingly, it was unknown to residents of Page just 60 years ago.

Just a few miles southwest of Glen Canyon dam as the condor flies, US-89 meets up with US-89A at a sharp turn and then reveals the wonders of Navajo Bridge, Lees Ferry and Marble Canyon and “Cliff Dwellers” as you head west. This is Canyon Country, and for travelers coming up into Utah from Arizona, it is the beginning of some of the most majestic scenery America has to offer.

Red rocks at Lake Powell Arizona

Looking at the far shore of Lake Powell from Wahwheap Overlook.

Glen Canyon Dam has large parking areas on either side of it, and you can walk all over the huge boulders that line the sides of the canyon. Buddy and I dashed off to explore the boulders — it was just so inviting!

We could hear Mark yelling, “Be CAREFUL!” far behind us. The wind was whipping, and he was afraid we’d go over the edge into the water far below. However, even though it looked like we were on a dangerous precipice, we were actually quite safe with several shelves of boulders stair-stepping down a ways before we’d be anywhere toppling over into the fast flowing water.

Red rocks near Glen Canyon Dam Arizona

What a place for photography!

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Pup on the red rocks near Glen Canyon Dam Lake Powell Arizona

Buddy’s fur was flying.

The rocks had wonderful lines and shapes. Buddy disappeared into a small slot canyon and then reappeared, trotting happily towards me.

Pup runs through slot canyon near Lake Powell Arizona

Dog heaven.

As I said, Glen Canyon and Lake Powell are stunning at any time of day, but some of the coolest scenes happen early. We returned to the Wahwheap Overlook scenic drive at dawn and waited for the first wink of sunlight to appear across the lake.

Sunrise at Lake Powell Wahwheap Overlook in Page Arizona on an RV trip

Good morning, Lake Powell!

Sunrise over Lake Powell near Glen Canyon Dam and Page Arizona

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The far side of the lake backs up to some wonderful mesas and rock pinnacles. I loved the layers and shapes of the mesas and stone pinnacles in the misty distance.

Distant mesas at Wahwheap Overlook at dawn on Lake Powell on an Arizona RV trip 2

Layers upon layers…

As the sun rose, highlights appeared on the rocks and cliff faces. This was a truly magical time of day. No one was around and the air was still.

Wahwheap Overlook at dawn on Lake Powell on an Arizona RV trip

Sunny highlights appeared as the land woke up.

A car drove on the road by behind me and then two more followed. I could hear them drive all the way to the boat ramp, and then I heard the rev of their boat engines as they took off. Suddenly a series of boats snaked through the canyon and disappeared into the deeper water beyond. Hopefully the fish were biting!

Wahwheap Overlook Lake Powell Glen Canyon Dam Arizona

Fishermen make their way out to the best fishing grounds.

Glen Canyon Dam was controversial when it was built because many historical treasures and magnificent landscapes were lost forever beneath the Colorado River water that filled the lake. Before the dam was built, some folks thought the area deserved to be a National Park. Many felt it was unwise to build the dam.

Interestingly, most of America’s major dams were constructed at a time that followed decades of plentiful rain and snowmelt. The data the engineers were working from was biased towards wetter than normal conditions. However, at that time and even today, no one knows what the Colorado River was like in the 13th and 14th centuries when the ancient Indians abandoned their pueblos all across the southwest and Mexico due to intense and persistent drought. If that data could have been taken into account, Glen Canyon Dam and others might not have been built!

Glen Canyon Dam at Lake Powell in Page Arizona on an RV trip

Lake Powell hovers around 50% of water capacity these days..

Oh well, that’s all water over the dam now. Lake Powell is gorgeous and we’ve just scratched the surface of all there is to see in Glen Canyon National Recreation Area.

Before you pack up and go, here are some notes about the seasons: Spring is a great time to visit Lake Powell, however it can be exceedingly windy. Like 40 mph gusts and dust devils. Summer has much less wind but is very hot. Fall is cooler than Summer and less windy than Spring. Our visit one January was exceptional because there were few tourists and the air was very clear after some winter rains. It’s chilly at that time of year, but it’s a great time to go!

Happy campers and puppy at Lake Powell Arizona

Happy campers at Lake Powell

This little portrait of us was captured by a gal named Beth that we met on the trail. We were lamenting that for once we didn’t have our cameras, and the view was out of this world. She said, “I’ll get a pic of you three!” and she got it on her phone and emailed it to me. What a kind gesture that was, and what a great memento of that beautiful hike and view!

Arizona Highways Scenic Drives

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Sheep May Safely Graze (in the Mountains with Dogs!)

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July 2023 – Despite all the dazzling technological advancements in recent years and the ultra fast pace of living these days, there are a few constants that still reach across borders and the passage of time. Raising herds of livestock on vast pastures is one of them.

From biblical times through the Middle Ages to our current era, despite conquests and cultural upheavals and dramatic social shifts, livestock has continued grazing quietly around the world. And surely JS Bach’s musical piece, “Sheep May Safely Graze,” is as vivid a depiction of sheep placidly nibbling on summer grasses as it was when he wrote it in 1713.

Sheep May Safely Graze - In the Mountains With Dogs!

Our furry shepherd…

During our RV trip through Colorado last summer, we were happily camping in the National Forest, minding our own business, when we caught wind from other campers in the area that a flock of sheep was going to be brought in to graze for the summer. How fun!

We had witnessed the thrilling arrival of a huge flock of sheep once before when we were camping in Utah, and we’d gotten a huge kick out of watching the whole process. It was like nothing we’d ever seen before.

RV Camping in the National Forest in Colorado

We were quietly camping when a sheep parade came right by our door!

Sheep like to graze at 10,000’ elevation in the summertime, so they are often driven by truck up into the mountain peaks to enjoy a months-long feast of high elevation grasses and flowers. The flock owners lease the land from the US Forest Service and they hire people to live with the sheep on the mountainsides.

Often these temporary employees are experienced shepherds from Peru that are flown here with special work visas for the summer to camp in the high altitudes of the American West and tend the sheep.

Although we’d been wrapping up our stay and planning to leave, when heard the sheep would be arriving, we decided to stay a little longer to watch the action.

Suddenly, a huge livestock truck rattled down the dirt road, and we could hear the ba-aa-aa of the sheep in the truck. They were making quite a racket!

Sheep livestock truck arrives

A truckload of sheep rolled up!

The truck parked right next to our rig, and we could see little sheep heads peeking out of the openings in the sides of the truck!

Sheep peeks out of livestock trailer in Colorado

“What’s going. on out there?”

Lots of sheep were peering out at us. But we did a double-take when we noticed one of the sheep was actually a fluffy white DOG!

Sheep and dog heads poking out of a sheep livestock trailer in Colorado

Ahem…the one on the right is NOT a sheep!

The dog was a Great Pyrenees. We’ve met a a few of these wonderful dogs before. They are gentle giants. The owners of the flock said it was okay to pet the sheep dog and neither one of us could resist.

Great Pyrenees sheep dogs are raised with their flock outdoors from the time they’re young puppies. So, they get to know and understand sheep very well! They learn their jobs as Guardians of the Sheep from the older sheep dogs in the flock, and they live their whole lives outdoors with the sheep.

Great Pyrenees dog gets a pat on the head in a sheep livestock trailer

“Mmmmm…that feels good!”

The Great Pyrenees have an important job guarding the sheep from predators, but they aren’t the only dogs involved in the sheep management business. Border Collies help the shepherds move the sheep from place to place.

Sure enough, a Border Collie was right there ready to help out. Buddy wanted to know if he could help too, and the owners and dogs said “Sure!” Wow! He was thrilled!

Border collie helps with herding the sheep

This agile Border Collie had the fun job of chasing the flock to move them from one place to another

Dogs at a sheep livestcok trailer in Colorado

“I’m a runner too! I’m ready whenever you are!”

The owners had set up a long chute from the back of the livestock truck over to the pen that would hold the sheep until they were all out of the truck and ready to be moved to a pasture.

The first sheep cautiously looked down the chute, unsure of what to do.

The Border Collie jumped and yipped and the owners clapped and encouraged the sheep to start running down the ramp. The sheep got the idea, and suddenly a whole line of sheep was running down the chute.

Sheep gets ready to run down the chute from a livestock trailer

The border collie did some yipping to encourage the cautious sheep down the ramp.

Line of sheep run down the chute from a livestock trailer in Colorado

And down they ran in a steady stream of woolly white coats.

The sheep were all mamas (ewes) with their lambs, and they were very cute as they trotted down the chute and into the grassy pen!

Sheep run to new grazing grounds in Colorado

“I think the best grass is up ahead!”

Photographing sheep in Colorado

We had a ball watching these sheep running towards their new grazing grounds.

The owners used a small hand counter to count the sheep as they ran out of the truck. It seemed to be a tricky business distinguishing one trotting sheep from another as they passed in a blur of fur, ears and legs.

The sheep had traveled on two levels in the livestock truck. After the sheep on the lower level had been let out, the ramp was attached to the upper level and the sheep on the second floor began to run out.

A sheep jumps from the 2nd level of a livestock trailer

A ramp was set up for a second group of sheep on the upper level.

The owners had a third dog that was their pet. He had the job of Rodeo Clown! He zoomed in and out between all the sheep, in and out of the pen and all around the grass like a madman. He was faster than the Border Collie and probably faster than a speeding bullet! He leapt on and off the chute fencing and did all kinds of acrobatics.

The owners said he was always a little crazy like that. The other dogs paid him no mind, and neither did the sheep!

Sheep grazing in a pen with a happy pup

The owners’ Pet Dog was bursting with excitement. He had the most lighthearted job ever: Rodeo Clown!

Buddy was having an absolute ball as an Apprentice Herder. He seemed to know that he was playing a Junior role, so he never went into the pen with the sheep even though he could have like the other dogs did. He just ran alongside them on the outside of the pen, barking to make them run — and the Pet Dog followed along!

Happy dog runs alongside a sheep pen

Buddy was having a ball in his new role as Apprentice Herder.

Dog excited about sheep in a pen

He just loved getting the sheep to run from one end of the pen to the other.

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In between Buddy’s practice herding runs, the sheep settled into doing some serious grazing. They mowed the grass down by an inch or two in no time!

Sheep grazing in a pen in Colorado

The sheep’s job was to graze.

And in between grazing, life went on for the ewes and their lambs.

Lamb nursing from its mother

Mealtime

At this point we’d forgotten all about the Great Pyrenees sheep dogs, but then we noticed one inside the sheep pen. He stuck his head out under the fencing. There wasn’t a whole lot of Sheep Guarding to be done at the moment, so he seemed a little bored.

Great Pyrenees sheep dog looks out under the fencing of the sheep pen

“I’m on break right now, ’cause there’s not a lot to do!”

When he saw Buddy he perked right up. Here was a new friend!

Sheep dog and pet dog meet over the fence

“Hey there little fella!”

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Suddenly, the Great Pyrenees decided he wanted to be on the outside of the pen. So, jumped up and over the wooden fencing of the chute!

Great Pyrenees sheep dog jumps out of the sheep chute

Up…

Great Pyrenees sheep dog jumps out of the sheep chute

…and Over!

I was floored by the agility of this very large dog. The fencing wasn’t all that sturdy, but he leapt on and off of it with ease and grace.

Once he was out with Buddy the two hung out together and kept an eye on things for quite some time.

Dogs guard the sheep pen

“We’ve got this!”

Meanwhile, the Pet Dog wanted to show off a little too. He straddled the chute fencing, almost as a challenge to the Great Pyrenees!

pet dog Rodeo Clown

“Hey, you’re a pretty good jumper, but can you do this?”

Back at the truck, the Border Collie helped the owners make sure that all the sheep had been moved out and there weren’t any stragglers left inside.

Checking out the sheep in a livestock truck

“Yup, one last one and that’s it!”

Finally, it was time to open the sheep pen and move them to their first real grazing grounds. The gate swung wide, and the Border Collie swung into action. He chased them and dashed this way and that as the owners told him what to do with a special high pitched whistle.

Border Collie runs past grazing sheep in a pen

The Border Collie went to work herding the sheep out of the pen, taking cues from the owner’s whistle

The sheep headed out the gate and munched their way across the grass, mowing it down as they went.

Sheep let out of a pen into a pasture

Noses to the grass, the sheep made their way out of the pen.

We followed from a respectful distance and were really surprised when they headed towards the highway. The owner stood in the middle of the highway to stop traffic. And sure enough, before long there was a line of cars and trucks waiting for the sheep to cross the highway!

A flock of sheep crosses the road in Colorado

Make way for ducklings sheep!

A flock of sheep crosses the road in Colorado 2

After a while there was quite a line of cars and trucks waiting for the sheep parade to pass.

Eventually the whole flock had crossed, and they began making their way to the pasture on the far side. This was quite a production!

Sheep moving from one pasture to another

Everyone is across…

We wandered back towards our rig and noticed there was a bit of commotion going on. We peered a little closer and saw a sheep lying motionless in a bed of dandelions. We heard some of the workers talking, and it seemed she had been pushed to one edge of the flock where there were some brambles and a fallen tree in the way. She’d gotten tangled up in the branches as the flock had rushed along, and she’d stumbled and fallen as the other sheep brushed past.

Sheep resting in dandelions

She stumbled and couldn’t keep up with the flock and got left behind.

It wasn’t clear if she was injured or just stunned. The owner carried her over to the flatbed ranch truck and made a space for her in the back. A little while later she traveled in queenly style and seemed to appreciate getting a chauffeured ride back to the ranch. They assured us that she would be fine and just needed some R&R back home. They’d bring her back the flock in a few days.

Sheep gets a special ride back home

She perked up when she got a chauffeured ride home!

Phew! That was a lot of excitement for one afternoon! We caught one of the owners catching a few winks on the sheep ramp.

Resting after a hard day's work

After counting every sheep running past in the flock, it was time to lie down and count a few more sheep with closed eyes and catch some Zzzz’s!

Then the empty livestock truck rattled its way back out to the highway.

Sheep trailer and RV in National Forest in Colorado

What a great day this was!

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A little more about grazing sheep, both here and in Germany almost 300 years ago:

Related blog posts about animals!

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Lost Dutchman State Park: GORGEOUS scenery & RV campground!

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March 2024 – Lost Dutchman State Park is one of Arizona’s most beautiful and most loved state parks. Nestled up against the towering cliffs of the Superstition Mountains, it is a showcase for stunning Sonoran Desert scenery, and it has a lovely RV campground with paved loops that is ideal for both RVs and tents!

Lost Dutchman State Park Campground - Awesome RV camping in Arizona

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All that wondrousness and popularity makes it very hard to get a campsite, though. Years ago, the campground was first-come-first-serve. But every morning from Fall until Spring a line of RVs would be waiting at the gate to get a campsite. Now all the campsites are reservable a year in advance, and you have to be online at the stroke of midnight if you want a specific site on a specific date!

Dramatic skies at Lost Dutchman State Park Arizona

Lost Dutchman State Park is nestled up against the Superstition Mountains.

Dutchman

The sun peaks over the mountains at dawn.

Fortunately, campers’ plans change. We snagged a cancellation for a pretty campsite during the prime spring season, and we enjoyed a wonderful weeklong stay. Many of the campsites are fairly large and private, and we had a nice view out the back end of our toy hauler.

View out the back of a toy hauler RV at Lost Dutchman State Park Arizona

Sunshine pours into our rig — Nice!

The view out the windows and front door wasn’t bad either!

RV Camping at Lost Dutchman State Park

The stunning Superstitions are visible from all over the campground.

When we arrived, we had beautiful summery weather too — so welcome in mid-March!

Happy Camper at Lost Dutchman State Park Arizona

Summertime in March!

We had hoped to find Lost Dutchman State Park full of wildflowers. It is considered one of the best spots to go wildflower hunting in Arizona’s Sonoran Desert.

The winter rains had other plans, however, and although we found a few patches of flowers here and there, they weren’t as copious as they’re known to be. We were a week early!

Wildflowers at Lost Dutchman State Park Arizona

We saw patches of flowers but heard the flowers really popped a week after we left!

Lost Dutchman is an incredibly scenic park, though, both with and without flowers. On the first night we had a clear sky studded with bright stars. Dawn the next morning brought a soft glow around the Superstition Mountains.

Stars over Lost Dutchman State Park Arizona

Starry starry night.

Sunrise at Lost Dutchman State Park Arizona with coyote sculpture

The sun rose behind the mountain and cast a beautiful halo around it.

There are lots of hiking trails at Lost Dutchman State Park that go out towards the Superstition Mountains and then deep into them. We walked along the Siphon Draw Trail, Treasure Loop Trail and the Cross-Cut Trail which all wander between the campground and the mountains.

Superstition Mountains and saguaro cactus at Lost Dutchman State Park Arizona

We loved the play of sun and shadow on the cliffs.

Many hikes penetrate the mountains, and if you go far enough or even do a multi-day hike, you’ll find oases with waterfalls, streams, caves and more. Or so we’ve heard. We haven’t done that yet!

Saguaro cactus and setting moon at Lost Dutchman State Park Arizona

The moon hovers in the background.

As the story goes, a German (Deutsch) immigrant found gold in the Superstition Mountains in the 1800s, but the location of his strike died with him, and the legend of the Lost Dutchman was born.

Lots of people have tried to reconstruct where that gold strike was, but to this day it hasn’t been found.

Sun lights up a saguaro cactus at Lost Dutchman State Park Arizona

No one knows where the Lost Dutchman’s gold is located in the Superstitions, but the golden glow of sunlight illuminates the saguaro cacti all the time.

As the days progressed during our stay, a storm began to blow in and the sky became increasingly dramatic. It began one night with soft pastel colors in the sky.

Pastel sunset and saguaro cactus at Lost Dutchman State Park Arizona

Soft colors in the sky.

Each night after that, the heavens presented a varied and colorful light show.

Saguaro cactus at sunset in Lost Dutchman State Park Arizona

As a storm approached, the sunsets were colorful each evening.

Sunset at Lost Dutchman State Park Arizona with view of Four Peaks

We could see the side of Four Peaks in the distance.

Crazy saguaro cactus at sunset in Lost Dutchman State Park Arizona

Pink pink pink!

Saguaro cactus at sunset Lost Dutchman State Park Arizona

A little orange.

Lost Dutchman State Park Campground Arizona

Lost Dutchman is a beautiful place to camp!

And of course campers weren’t only ones sleeping at the Park. One campsite had a saguaro cactus with a huge nesting hole in it, and a little owl thought it was a great place for a snooze!

Owl sleeping in a saguaro cactus Lost Dutchman State Park Arizona

In one campsite an owl was napping in a hole in a cactus. What a fun surprise for the campers in that site!

During our first few days, the high temps had been in the low 80s and we’d been in shorts. But as the storm clouds began to form, the temps dropped lower and lower and winter began to wrap its icy fingers around the campground. The skies grew ever more ominous.

Saguaro cactus under uncertain skies at Lost Dutchman State Park Arizona

Brooding skies began to form.

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Lost Dutchman State Park in Arizona view of Four Peaks

Snowy mountains and desert cacti.

RV Camping at Lost Dutchman State Park Arizona

There were wild stripes above our neighbor one morning.

And then the clouds became downright spectacular. We’d come here for the flowers, but this drama was every bit as thrilling!

Lost Dutchman State Park RV Campground Arizona and Superstition Mountains

Temps dropped and the sky began to rage!

RV campground at Lost Dutchman State Park Arizona

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As Mark and I walked around the campground with Buddy, snapping pics of the drama that was unfolding around us, I noticed a scene that I particularly liked. It was the contrast of light and shadow on the boulders and grass in the foothills of the Superstitions.

I had a wide angle lens on my camera, though, so I couldn’t capture what I had in mind. Mark’s camera had the Nikon 24-120 lens on it and could reach out and grab what I saw. So he handed his camera to me saying, “Take it with mine!”

When I looked through the viewfinder, it wasn’t as close in on the rocks as I’d wanted. And for some reason, I assumed the lens was already all the way out at 120. So, I just snapped the shot, even though it wasn’t what I had in mind, and handed the camera back to Mark saying, “I didn’t get it. You’ll have to crop it down on the computer to make it right!” And we walked on.

Lo and behold, it turned out to be one of our favorite shots just as it was. I’d inadvertently captured both the bright light in the sky and the highlights on the ground. I love it when we talk about a scene and cooperate to take a photo, either on his camera or mine. And sometimes blooper shots are the best ones!

Stunning landscape at Lost Dutchman State Park Arizona

What I saw was the light and shadow on the small peaks, but the hole of light coming down from the heavens gives the image something extra!

The storm finally hit full force and we had two days and a night of downpours. What a deluge! These were quiet indoor days with occasional sprints outside to get the wiggles out. We were cozy, though, with the heat running inside all day long.

Puppy in his dog bed in a toy hauler RV

“When’s the rain gonna stop?!”

Finally the storm passed and we were able get outside again.

Lost Dutchman State Park has cabins for rent, and we explored the little loop where they are. These look like a fantastic way to enjoy the beauty of this state park in relative comfort if you don’t have a big RV and don’t want to stay in a tent.

There are five cabins and each one has a front porch, back porch and a small back yard with a campfire ring. Inside there are two bunk beds with mattresses and a queen bed as well.

There’s electricity and heat and air conditioning but no plumbing. Guests bring their own bedding or sleeping bags as well as cookware and camp chairs. There is a bathroom and shower building, with a large outdoor sink behind the building for washing dishes. These are rustic “camping cabins,” after all, and not hotel cabins.

This might sound a little austere, but the setting is divine. The cabins are located away from the rest of the campground and they have a fabulous view of the Superstitions in one direction and of open Sonoran Desert in the other.

Lost Dutchman State Park Arizona camping cabins

The cabins have some of the best views in the park!

And the Superstition Mountains are what it’s all about. Mark caught a beautiful image of the mountains in the golden hour with the full moon soaring overhead.

Midland GXT1000VP4 - 50 Channel GMRS Two-Way Radio - Long Range Walkie Talkie with 142 Privacy Codes, SOS Siren, and NOAA Weather Alerts and Weather Scan (Black/Silver, Pair Pack)
Midland 50 Channel GMRS
Two-Way Radio


We use these two-way radios EVERYWHERE!. Hiking, biking, shopping and parking the rig! For more of our RVing tips, visit this page: RVing Tips & Tricks

Lost Dutchman State Park Arizona full moon

The full moon flies over the Superstitions.

That moon was so darn quiet we didn’t pay much attention to it. But then, early one morning, we went out at oh-dark-thirty looking for a cool sunrise, and I turned around to see the full moon setting behind me. I smiled as I noticed a saguaro cactus was playing with it as it fell through its branches.

First the cactus cradled the full moon for a moment. Then it rolled off its fingertips. And then it caught it in its lower branches.

Saguaro cactus holds the full moon

A cactus cradles the moon in its arm.

Full moon rolls off saguaro cactus arm

Oh no… It’s rolling off!

Saguaro cactus catches the full moon

Ahhhh… Good catch!

When we returned home, we climbed over the mountain pass around Strawberry, Arizona. The two days of rain we’d seen down in the desert had been two days of snow up in the mountains, and it was just beginning to hail as we drove through the small village (and stopped for pie at the fabulous Pie Man shop!).

Arizona sure can conjure up some crazy weather. It was hard to believe we’d been in shorts enjoying a bit of summertime at Lost Dutchman State Park just a few days before!

Snowstorm near Strawberry Arizona

A huge hail storm blew in as we crested the mountains around Strawberry.

Snowstorm descending into the Verde Valley Arizona

We faced a slippery slide down into the Verde Valley.

Lost Dutchman State Park deserves to be on every RVer’s bucket list. Granted, it’s full every night from October to April, but it’s worth the effort either to get online at midnight (or shortly thereafter) 365 days before you want your reservation to begin OR to check back frequently for cancellations closer to the time of your trip.

While we were there, we looked into reserving a site for the same week next year. There were sites available, however all but one of the best sites was already booked! Crazy, huh?!

Sunset at Lost Dutchman State Park Arizona

Lost Dutchman State Park is a beautiful spot!

Oh yes. We stayed in the Rustic Loop 105-134. Some surveyors were surveying the campsites in our loop and we asked them why. They said the campsites in that loop are being prepared for electric and water hookups. So, that may be coming in a year or so.

Prices in 2024 were $25/night for a dry site in the rustic loop and $35/night for an electric/water site in all the other loops.

Teardrop trailer at Lost Dutchman State Park

Lost Dutchman State Park is a very special place

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Exploring the Lower Salt River and Apache Trail in Arizona!

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March 2024 – The Salt River in eastern Arizona boasts some of the finest Sonoran Desert scenery in the state, and it’s one of our favorite places for exploring, hiking, biking, photography and relaxing in the lush desert!.

The river flows westward from Arizona’s White Mountains, and as it approaches Phoenix, a portion of it known as the Lower Salt River flows through a series of dams, creating Roosevelt Lake, Apache Lake, Canyon Lake and Saguaro Lake. The Apache Trail parallels the river on an impossibly winding and gorgeous route.

The contrast between the dry desert and these lakes makes for a unique landscape, and in the springtime it is bursting with flowers and wildlife.

Sitting in the Lower Salt River Arizona poppies

A little wildlife amid a lot of flowers!.

We had so much fun photographing the Arizona poppies along the Bush Highway last March that we just had to return this year.

Last year the poppies exploded in a fabulous super bloom. This year the fields of gold weren’t as extensive as before. However, it was still a magical experience to see the pretty flowers and walk between the thick patches of yellow and orange.

Buddy made himself at home and promptly laid down in a thicket of poppies.

Puppy in the poppies on the Lower Salt River in Arizona

“This is nice here!”

People all around us strolled slowly in wonder, stopping now and then to get selfies amid the flowers. We were no exception!

Happy photographing the poppies along the Lower Salt River Recreation Area in Arizona

Right in the thick of it…

Photography in the Lower Salt River Arizona poppies

Getting down to business!

Midland GXT1000VP4 - 50 Channel GMRS Two-Way Radio - Long Range Walkie Talkie with 142 Privacy Codes, SOS Siren, and NOAA Weather Alerts and Weather Scan (Black/Silver, Pair Pack)
Midland 50 Channel GMRS
Two-Way Radio


We use these two-way radios EVERYWHERE!. Hiking, biking, shopping and parking the rig! For more of our RVing tips, visit this page: RVing Tips & Tricks

These joyful flowers grow in abundance all around the Phoenix area. For some people whose yards are overrun with them each spring, they can actually be something of a nuisance. But to us, their happy faces smiling up at the sun are the very essence of Spring.

Lower Salt River Arizona poppies with a lupine

Poppies herald the arrival of Spring in the Sonoran Desert.

Lower Salt River Arizona poppies on the Bush Highway in the Lower Salt River Recreation Area

Smiling faces.

Arizona Poppies blooming on the Bush Highway in the Lower Salt River Recreation Area in Arizona

Poppies’ eye view of the sky!

A little further down the Bush Highway, we stopped at the Water User’s Recreation Area. This is a huge parking lot and river frontage area where people launch kayaks, standup paddle boards and let their dogs and kids play in the water. There’s a fantastic view of the Salt River from the edge of the parking lot.

Water Users Recreation Area Lower Salt River on the Bush Highway

A natural river flows through the desert.

Water Users Recreation Area Lower Salt River on the Bush Highway

This is a great place to play in the water on a hot day.

Lower Salt River on the Bush Highway Water Users Recreation Area

Just love those cliffs!

Sometimes when we’ve stopped at this spot we’ve seen the wild horses that are residents of the area. They come down to the water here for a drink. None were out on this particular day. However, Buddy waded in the water and took a long drink.

Dog in the Salt River on the Bush Highway at Water Users Recreation Area

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There are a lot of recreation areas along the Bush Highway, and each is a little different. There are cliffs and beaches and even some mesquite woods at the Coon Bluff Recreation Area.

We hiked on the short trail that parallels the Salt River and wanders between the lush green grass and mesquite trees.

Coon Bluff Trail in the Lower Salt River Recreation Area in Arizona

We watched a wedding shoot in this grove of trees a few years back!

Down on the riverbank we suddenly heard a loud chirping coming from a pile of boulders. Buddy quickly ran over and stared into a hole between the rocks, sniffing continuously. Sure enough, there was a ground squirrel in the hole. He came out into the sunshine for a split second and chirped for us and then darted back in the hole.

Squirrel at Coon Bluff Trail in the Lower Salt River Recreation Area in Arizona

“Watcha doin’ ?”

Up in the sky, a pair of geese flew by. One was honking loudly. The wildlife around here had a lot to say!

Geese flying at Coon Bluff Trail in the Lower Salt River Recreation Area in Arizona

“Take a left!”

We drove on a short distance and stopped at the Phon D Sutton Recreation Area. This spot is at the confluence of the Salt River and the Verde River, and there’s not only wildlife all around but lots of human activity too. it’s a beautiful place to spend an afternoon.

We hiked a short trail that goes along the river’s edge, and Buddy suddenly stopped and laid down for a brief rest while he surveyed the pretty landscape from a nice spot in the shade.

Dog relaxes at Phon D Sutton in the Lower Salt River Recreation Area in Arizona

Buddy takes a breather in the shade by the Salt River.

Four Peaks appeared far out on the horizon. From this vantage point we were seeing the “front” of Four Peaks while when we RV camped at Roosevelt Lake further upstream on the Salt River a few weeks ago, we were looking at the “back” of Four Peaks.

Salt River at Phon D Sutton in the Lower Salt River Recreation Area in Arizona

View of Four Peaks from Phon D Sutton Recreation Area.

In the opposite direction, Red Mountain cast a reflection in the glassy water.

Red Mountain Lower Salt River Arizona

Red Mountain checks its reflection in the water.

As I mentioned, Phon D Sutton (along with all the other Recreation Areas on the Salt River) is a popular place for all kinds of outdoor activities. While we were there, a group of people began bringing inflatable kayaks down to the water’s edge. First it was two yellow kayaks. Then two yellows and a red. Then two yellows, a red and a green. In no time the shoreline was filled with a rainbow of kayaks.

Rafting in the Lower Salt River Arizona

A group of kayakers brought a kaleidescope of kayaks to the shores of the Salt River.

A fly fisherman stood in the water casting his line, and a photographer grinned happily between shots.

Fishing in the Lower Salt River Arizona

The Lower Salt River recreation areas along the Bush Highway are all about having fun in and near the water.

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Reese Goose Box
5th Wheel Pin Box #94920


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Photography in the Lower Salt River Arizona at Phon D Sutton

This is a great area to bring a camera.

The Bush Highway, Coon Bluff and Phon D Sutton are all near the city of Mesa. Further upstream on the Salt River, on the northeastern edge of the city of Apache Junction, lies one of Arizona’s most spectacular scenic drives: the Apache Trail (State Route 88).

This incredible winding road goes through some of the finest Sonoran Desert scenery in the state on a road that began as a trail used by the Apache Indians before the settlers arrived.

In 1903 road construction began to link the city of Mesa with the construction site for the Roosevelt Dam. In just a year, the first 64 miles of the road from Mesa to the Roosevelt Dam (which created Roosevelt Lake) was completed for a cost of $200,000. Two years later, in 1905, the entire 112 mile long road through this very treacherous terrain was completed for a total cost of $500,000.

The road builders were predominantly Apache Indians, and they built the road using pick axes and shovels along with dynamite. What an impressive feat!

Apache Indian road building crew on the Apache Trail, courtesy Bureau of Reclamation

These guys built 112 miles of road through perilous terrain in 3 short years!

Today, the 37 miles of road through the most treacherous part of the original 112 mile long Apache Trail goes from Apache Junction to Roosevelt Lake and takes dozens of sweeping turns on a hilly run out towards the dam.

Only the first 15 miles are paved, however. And the 22 mile long dirt portion, which used to make for a very exciting ride, is currently washed out in a few places due to flooding in 2019, so it’s closed.

As we drove this beloved road, we reminisced about racing our bicycles on the paved portion after work on hot summer Wednesday evenings back in the day! It was a crazy race, but so much fun. It was typically 115 degrees, and we’d both put in a full work day already, but all our cares slipped away as we rode at top speed on this scenic route.

The Apache Trail in Arizona is a winding road

One of dozens of tight turns on the Apache Trail.

On our drive last week, we were alarmed when we saw a sheriff’s car and an ambulance parked by the side of a particularly tight turn, lights flashing.

People routinely drive this road way too fast, and a surprising number go over the edge. Seeing the car at the bottom of the cliff was a great reminder to take our time and drive slowly. After all, why rush on such a beautiful drive?!

Saguaro cacti in the Lower Salt River area in Arizona

The Apache Trail is one of the best places to see gorgeous saguaro cactus stands.

721 Saguaro Cactus on the Apache Trail in Arizona

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Along the way, two trestle bridges cross tributary streams that flow into the river.

Bridge on the Apache Trail in Arizona

There are two trestle bridges on the Apache Trail.

The Apache Trail follows a portion of the Salt River that is dammed to form a series of lakes: Roosevelt Lake, Apache Lake, Canyon Lake and Saguaro Lake. As we turned a corner, we could see Canyon Lake in the distance.

View of Canyon Lake on the Apache Trail in Arizona

Canyon Lake appears in the distance.

A delightful way to see Canyon Lake is to take a ride on the Dolly Steamboat. We enjoyed that wonderful boat ride a few years ago when a crew from Camping World was filming us for a promotional video. It was a lot of fun to float through a Sonoran Desert canyon!

We’ve also taken the boat ride on Saguaro Lake aboard the Desert Belle. If you have a chance, either boat ride (or both) is well worth doing. Drifting through spectacular Sonoran Desert scenery is a captivating way to spend a few hours.

Dolly Steamboat ride on Canyon Lake Arizona

Dolly Steamboat cruises down Canyon Lake.

There are also several recreation areas near the Dolly Steamboat dock, and we stopped at Acacia Recreation Area to explore. This is a gorgeous spot with a beach, picnic tables, shade trees and stunning views of the canyon walls across the water.

A young family was enjoying a picnic on a blanket while a little girl and her dad fished at the water’s edge.

Acacia Recreation Area on the Apache Trail Arizona

What a beautiful place to bring the family on a hot day.

Renogy Solar Panel 200 Watt 12 Volt
Renogy 200 Watt 12 Volt Solar Panel

We used two of these solar panels to upgrade our toy hauler's factory-installed 200 watt system to a 600 watt system.

See our DIY installation here:
RV Solar Power Upgrade

Canyon Lake on the Apache Trail in Arizona

Far in the distance, the Dolly Steamboat is dwarfed by the canyon walls.

The paved portion of the Apache Trail ends just beyond Tortilla Flat, a small complex of historic buildings with a restaurant. This place is a magnet for convertible drivers and motorcyclists who love to ride the sweeping turns of the Apache Trail and then stop for lunch.

On our way back we saw an opening for a small trail that went down to a stream. Buddy cooled his paws in the water and Mark did too when he accidentally stepped into deep water that came in over the tops of his boots!

Fun in the water on the Apache Trail in Arizona

Buddy and Mark cool their paws in the water.

The whole Lower Salt River area from Roosevelt Lake to the Apache Trail to the river access points on the Bush Highway is a rich playground for outdoor lovers, and we keep going back and back again!

Camping in Arizona

RV camping in the Sonoran Desert – fun fun fun!

Arizona poppies blooming on the Bush Highway in the Lower Salt River Canyon Recreation Area

Poppies, poppies, poppies!

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Windy Hill Campground + Tonto National Monument

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January 2024 – Roosevelt Lake is a beautiful lake in Central Arizona that was created by damming up the Salt River, and it is one of our favorite places to go winter RV camping in Arizona. When a warm “January thaw” swept through the state, we took advantage of the spring-like weather and spent a few days at Windy Hill Campground.

Four Peaks seen from Windy Hill Campground Roosevelt Lake Arizona

Mist rises from Arizona’s Roosevelt Lake in view of Four Peaks at dawn.

There are several campgrounds around Roosevelt Lake, but our favorite is Windy Hill Campground. There are quite a few campground loops at Windy Hill, and each is lovely. Some campsites can be reserved, but we always take our chances with first-come-first-serve because there are usually dozens and dozens of empty sites.

This year we had an entire campground loop to ourselves. What luck!

RV camping at Windy Hill Campground at Roosevelt Lake Arizona

We had an entire campground loop to ourselves at Windy Hill Campground.

Many of the campsites are near the water’s edge. This year the lake level was quite high, so it was just a few steps down a short trail to get to the water from our campsite.

At sunrise the world was very quiet as wispy clouds painted pastel shades of pink and orange across the heavens. Reflections appeared in the water below.

Sunrise Windy Hill Campground at Roosevelt Lake Arizona

Sunrise at Roosevelt Lake, Arizona.

In the distance, we could see the winter snow on Four Peaks in the early morning glow.

Four Peaks at sunrise Windy Hill Campground at Roosevelt Lake Arizona

Pink everywhere.

The light was constantly changing and once the mist cleared, the mountains took on a fiery hue for a few moments.

Four Peaks over Roosevelt Lake seen from Windy Hill Campground

“Morning has broken…”

Roosevelt Lake is especially loved by fishermen, and there are fishing tournaments year round. There weren’t any fishing tournaments going on during our stay this year, but there were plenty of anglers out on the water.

Fishing on Roosevelt Lake at Windy Hill Campground in Arizona

What a place to fish!

Hiking trails hug the water’s edge around several of the peninsulas just below the campsites, and we happily hit the trails each morning and evening. The campground hosts had done a great job of keeping these trails clear.

All the campground loops are paved while the campsites themselves are gravel.

One day while returning to our campsite, the shadow of Buddy’s inner wolf suddenly appeared in the road.

Inner Wolf

On a late afternoon walk, Buddy was stalked by his inner wolf.

Despite the shadow monsters out there, we felt a wonderful peace in the air and just hung out and relaxed.

RV Camping at the Windy Hill Campground at Roosevelt Lake in Arizona

Soaking up some winter sunshine in our campsite.

Just chilling in the RV

Just chillin’ on the sofa.

Sunsets are just as dramatic as the sunrises at Roosevelt Lake, and they were a bit easier to enjoy since we were already up and out of bed!

Sunset reflection at Roosevelt Lake in Arizona.jpg

Sunset!

Sunset view of Four Peaks from Roosevelt Lake Arizona.jpg

Wow!

For such a beautiful RV camping area in such a scenic setting, it has always bewildered us that very few of Arizona’s thousands of winter RV snow birds ever go there. Oddly, even fewer locals have ever heard of it!

The US Forest Service recreation areas around Roosevelt Lake were built decades ago with great anticipation that hordes of campers and boaters would flock to the lake from both Phoenix and Tucson, each about 100 miles away. There were hundreds of campsites built on both sides of the lake in all kinds of pretty settings.

Although the campgrounds at Roosevelt Lake, including Windy Hill Campground, are dry camping only, the loops are paved, the campsites are spacious, each one has a shaded picnic ramada and campfire ring, there are ample water spigots around each loop and there are bathroom buildings with flush toilets and showers.

But the expected crowds never came.

Roosevelt Lake is 2 hours from both Phoenix and Tucson, and it is just too far for a family to go for a Saturday night camping trip. Lots of people come for longer stays like Spring Break and the big three-day weekends, but not at any other time. As for winter RV snowbirds, most want hookups, and who can blame them in January when the onshore lake winds pipe up and temps turn chilly?

But if you choose a campsite that isn’t waterfront property (I know, it’s hard to do that!), then there’s little wind and it’s a lot warmer.

The USFS has allowed the Roosevelt Lake campgrounds to fall into decay, and they are deliberately letting several loops at Windy Hill Campground sites “return to nature” as one camp host put it. The picnic tables and campfire rings have been removed and the campsite pads are disappearing under the weeds.

Yet, at the same time, they installed a major upgrade this past year: a new RV dump station! They rerouted the road on one of the closed campground loops, and although it’s not the best dump station layout we’ve ever seen, it’s there and it’s open and it’s a lot more convenient than going to the other RV dump station at Roosevelt Lake located 10 miles away at Cholla Bay Campground.

In 2024, campsites at Windy Hill Campground cost $25/night ($12.50/night for seniors with the Federal Interagency Pass).

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One big surprise this year was that they now allow winter RV snowbirds to stay at Roosevelt Lake for as long as they wish. In the past, they wanted RVers to leave after the standard 14 days. During our stay we met several RVers who had been there for a few months and were planning to stay for a few months more. For seniors, at $12.50/night or ~$375/month, it’s a great deal for monthly rent in a scenic spot with paved loops and good sized campsites.

Roosevelt Lake isn’t near anything, and that may be part of the reason that most Snowbird RVers don’t flock there. The bustling town of Payson, Arizona, is 50 miles away to the north and the mining town of Globe, Arizona, is 80 miles to the east.

However, right across the street from Windy Hill Campground is a wonderful ancient Indian cliff dwelling ruin, Tonto National Monument. Even though we have visited several times before, we decided to go there once again during our stay this year.

Tonto National Monument trail to Lower Ruins

A paved path heads up to the Lower Cliff Dwellings cave at Tonto National Monument.
This is across the street from Windy Hill Campground.

The fun thing about these ruins is that you can go right inside the pueblo and get a feeling for what life might have been like for the ancients living high up on this mountainside.

There are two sets of ruins, the Lower Cliff Dwelling and the Upper Cliff Dwelling. Each set of ruins was found very much intact by the settlers in the 1800s, and there were fabulous artifacts strewn about as if the former inhabitants had just moved out last week.

In the 1940s, the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) built a hiking trail to each ruin, and the Navajo Mobile Unit that had worked on stabilizing the massive ruins at Chaco Canyon in New Mexico were brought in to stabilize these ruins.

The paved half-mile trail to the Lower Cliff Dwelling is very steep and has lots of switchbacks. But between our huffs and puffs as we tackled this vertical hike, we paused to soak in the fantastic views of Roosevelt Lake behind us.

View from Tonto National Monument trail to Lower Ruins

We enjoyed sensational views as we ascended and descended the trail to Tonto National Monument’s Lower Cliff Dwellings.

View from Tonto National Monument trail to Lower Ruins

It’s worth it to hike up to the cliff dwellings just to see the views!

Roosevelt Lake didn’t exist 700 years ago when these cliff dwellings were built, but it sure is pretty today. Back then, the Salt River meandered through the valley below but its flow was temperamental during droughts and floods.

Roosevelt Lake seen from the trail to the Lower Cliff Dwellings at Tonto National Monument

The ancient Indians didn’t have these mesmerizing lake views…

Saguaro skeleton Tonto National Monument trail to Lower Ruins

Saguaro cacti leave exotic skeletons behind when they die.

The hike to the Upper Cliff Dwelling is 3 miles long and you can only do it on a ranger guided tour (the tours are free).

When we did that hike a few years back, the ranger explained that current theories about the Salado People who lived on these hillsides and in the valley 700 years ago were that the valley dwellers arrived and built homes before the cliff dwellers did. They farmed the flat lands by the riverbanks and in the river’s flood plains.

View from Tonto National Monument trail to Lower Ruins

Ancient farmers raised crops in the valley before the cliff dwelling builders arrived.

Tonto National Monument trail to Lower Ruins view of Roosevelt Lake

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As this modern theory goes, the cliff dwellers arrived at a later date, and because there was no room to set up housekeeping on the valley floor, they built their homes into the cliffs. It is also thought that the cliff dwellers were tradesmen and made pots and other things for trade with other peoples elsewhere (macaw feathers from Costa Rica have been found in this area, perhaps traded for a pot or two!).

So, you had two groups of people living here, farmers in the valley and artisans on the mountainsides.

Tonto National Monument Cliff Dwellings Roosevelt Lake Arizona

Today’s theory is that these cliff dwellings in the mountainside caves were inhabited by artisans while farmers lived on the valley floor.

Tonto National Monument cliff dwellings Arizona 2

There is even a theory that the Salado People manufactured clay pots specifically for trade and the pots were warehoused in structures built just to store them.

Dogs are allowed on the Lower Cliff Dwelling trail, but only up to a certain point which is marked by a trash can. That is the holding area where you can either tie up your pooch and take a quick peek at the Cliff Dwelling or leave him with another member of your party and take turns roaming through the ruins.

We took turns, and Buddy patiently — but a bit nervously — waited for each of us to go up to the ruins and have a look around. He wasn’t keen on having his pack separated!

Other dogs arrived and had to wait too, so we all chatted together. The wonderful thing is that we could take our dogs on the trail at all and enjoy the hike together. It is understandable that they don’t want any peeing or pooping mishaps inside the ruins because that would attract wild animals into the ruins when no one is there.

Tonto National Monument cliff dwellings Arizona

The front of the cave was originally walled in.

Tonto National Monumnet Lower Cliff Dwellings Arizona

Photos from over a century ago show these walls extending much higher.

For me, one of the most interesting tales related to these ruins is that of Angeline Mitchell who rode her horse five miles through the brush, tied him to a tree and then scrambled up the mountainside to “the caves” with five friends, Melinda, Clara, Tom, Frank and Bud, in December, 1880.

She describes the mountainside as being covered with debris from the ruined walls and says she and her friend found traces of 33 rooms, 18 of them in “fair preservation.”

She describes the ruin as seven or eight stories high, or more, and says there was originally no opening in the outer wall and that the people got into the pueblo via the second story.

Tonto National Monument cliff dwellings Arizona

This cave is not seven or eight stories high, so perhaps Angeline Mitchell was writing about a different cave nearby (there are other ruins in the area that are inaccessible).

She mentions that another person who explored the ruins found the skeleton of an infant and that the fingerprints of the builders were as “perfect as the day ages ago when the hands were pressed into the plastic clay.”

Tonto National Monument cliff dwellings Arizona

A metate for grinding grain sits on the ground today. Angeline Mitchell wrote in 1880, “The floor is formed partly by a big rock…and in this rock were 1/2 a dozen metates hollowed out of it and varying in size, depth & shape.” Again, I’m not sure she’s writing about the Lower Cliff Dwellsing or about another cave in the vicinity.

In another cliff house, she and her friend found 22 rooms of which 16 were in “fair order, three of them and a hall…as perfect as the day they were finished.” That might be the Lower Cliff Dwellings as there appears to have been a hall at the front of the cave.

While marveling at the “fine state of preservation” of these rooms, her friend Clara suddenly fell through an opening to a lower level and landed in a pile of cholla cactus. Ouch! Removing just one barbed cholla cactus thorn will pull out a hunk of flesh with it. I can’t even imagine falling into a pile of chollas!

Nonetheless, Clara was eventually freed from the chollas and the group reconvened in another room.

Tonto National Monument Arizona cliff dwellings

It seems many of the rooms were fully intact when the ruins were first explored. Here there’s a hint of a roof.

Angeline later writes of the reactions they all had to this unbelievable adventure:

“It seemed so strange to be chatting and laughing so gaily in a house built unknown centuries ago by people unlike us in appearance but who had known joy and grief, pleasure and pain same as our race of today knows them, and who had laughed, cried, sung, danced, married & died, mourned or rejoiced their lives away in this once populous town, or castle, or whatever one would call it! It made an uncanny feeling come over us as we rested till moon rise and talked of this long dead people and told the little we knew concerning them.”

Juniper roof structure Tonto National Monument Arizona cliff dwellings

A few relics lie on the floor today. Whole pots and other treasures were in abundance when the dwellings were first explored.

Even though the ruins and the experience of seeing them today is nothing like what it was for Angeline and her friends in 1880, those sentiments of wonder about the people who “had laughed, cried, sung, danced, married & died, mourned or rejoiced their lives away” are still very much alive today.

We heard exclamations of “This is incredible” “Wow” and “I had no idea…” from everyone who came up into the ruins from the steep path.

We’d had a great adventure too, and as we left, I spotted two saguaro cacti waving goodbye to us.

Happy Trails to You

“Happy Trails to you, until we meet again…”

For some reason, I instantly thought of the song sung by Roy Rogers and his wife Dale Evans at the end of every episode of the Roy Rogers TV Show, “Happy Trails to You!”

I didn’t see the TV show when it aired 60-70 years ago, but I heard this song when we were at an Escapees RV park a few years back and some folks were watching the Roy Rogers Show on TV in the common room.

Its simplicity and sincerity touched me, and as you can see by the YouTube comments, it is beloved by thousands who grew up watching the Roy Rogers show:

Lyrics to the song “Happy Trails to You” (here) — There’s a cool surprise in the last verse!

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20 Years Later! Hassayampa Inn and The Dells

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Way back in the Dark Ages of 2004, a long long time ago, back when flip-phones were cool, when “social media” was a phrase no one had heard of and a “big screen TV” was smaller than 40 inches, Mark and I tied the knot.

Hurray for 20 years of wedded bliss!

FB Valentine's Day Way Back When

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It was a second marriage for both of us, so we didn’t want a traditional wedding. Visiting a Justice of the Peace on Valentine’s Day was just our speed.

Well, it was just our speed until Mark read an ad in the newspaper (yes, there were newspapers back then!) for a big Valentine’s Day celebration taking place at one of the newer and swankier resorts in Phoenix.

The event, “Lover’s Lane on Main,” was happening in the Kierland Commons plaza between all the boutique shops next to the fancy new Westin Resort and Golf Course.

Complete with horse drawn carriage rides, a big band playing romantic favorites of yesteryear outside all evening, and wine tastings and chocolate sampling going on in the boutique shops, the highlight of the event was going to be three weddings.

To top it all off, the three lucky couples getting hitched would receive a one night honeymoon stay at the Westin Resort!

All you had to to do to be one of those happy couples was write a paragraph about why you wanted to be married during this unusual event. So easy!

I got my most poetic thoughts together and wrote a little Harlequin Romance description of how fun it would be to ride down the resort’s Main Street in a horse drawn carriage as a newlywed couple. Lo and behold, we won! We were the 7:30 p.m. wedding. (There was one at 7:00 and another at 8:00).

On Valentine’s Day morning, we showed up at our weekly bike club ride and invited everyone to come to Kierland Commons that evening for our wedding. At the appointed hour, the minister asked that everyone who knew us come forward from the crowd to watch our special moment.

After the magic kiss, we were whisked away in a horse drawn carriage to the Westin Hotel. What fun!

We’d barely gotten settled into our beautiful hotel room when the bellhop knocked on our door and brought in a cart loaded with all kinds of colorful boxes and packages wrapped with bows. It turned out the various boutique shops were sending gifts up to our room!

“This is just like a real wedding!” Mark said, laughing.

At 10:00 pm that night, we flipped on the TV and watched ourselves getting married on Fox10 News! They’d covered the event, filmed our “I do” moment, and interviewed some of our friends. I called the station for a copy of that brief clip, and that became our wedding video!

The next day, when Mark returned his tuxedo, the owner of the tux rental shop asked him, “Do I know you? Are you someone famous? I saw you on TV last night!”

What a total hoot.

Wedding pic 4

A night to remember!

One of the funniest moments happened after our carriage delivered us to the Westin Hotel. The enormous hotel lobby was chock full of people, and as I looked around, I realized I was one of five brides in fancy white wedding dresses in the crowd!

Three of us were slightly older brides (all second marriages) who’d just gotten married outdoors under the little arbor at Lover’s Lane on Main. The two others were younger brides wearing big fluffy dresses with elegant veils and holding bouquets of flowers. They’d just arrived by limo from more traditional ceremonies to host their receptions in the grand ballrooms.

Of course, stars were in our eyes as we gazed at each other and drifted through this incredible evening, and we had no idea what lay in store for us in the coming years.

Arizona Delorme Atlas

If someone had said, “You’re going to run off in an RV and have a ball traveling full-time for 13 years and sharing your pics and stories!” we would have laughed and shaken our heads, “No way!”

If they’d added, “You’re going to sail the whole Pacific coast of Mexico and fall in love with Mexican culture,” we would have thought they were crazy.

Looking back at that fabulous kickoff to our married life, we decided this year that we wanted to celebrate our 20th anniversary in a special way.

After tossing around a few ideas, we settled on going to the Hassayampa Inn in Prescott, Arizona, a historic inn in a historic cowboy town that caters to couples in love with Romantic Getaway offerings.

More important, the Hassayampa Inn caters to four legged guests too. That cinched the deal for us!

Happy 20th Anniversary at Hassayampa Inn Prescott Arizona

Happy 20 at the Hassayampa.

The Hassayampa Inn was built in 1927, and the owners have kept it as original as possible. The lobby is a big open space with comfy chairs in the middle, arches along each wall, southwestern tile accents and a beautifully decorated ceiling.

Hassayampa Inn lobby in Prescott Arizona

The Hassayampa Inn has a big and inviting common room on the main floor.
A cozy fire was burning in the fireplace throughout our stay.

Ceiling of the Hassayampa Inn Lobby Prescott Arizona

The ceiling is very cool.

A man was playing piano at one end of the room. As soon as we’d taken our bags to our room, we came back downstairs to relax in the cushy chairs, listen to the music and savor a peaceful moment.

Music in the Hassayama Inn lobby in Prescott Arizona

Piano music set the mood just right.

Right opposite us we noticed there was a little window with various coffee offerings. Perfect! We promptly indulged, Buddy most of all.

Territorial Cafe at Hassayampa Inn lobby in Prescott Arizona

The Territorial Cafe was serving fancy coffees.

Puppaccino at Hassayampa Inn

Buddy dove into his puppaccino

Guests with dogs can order food from the dining room to be brought up into the lobby common room where there are two dining tables ready to go. They were still serving breakfast at nearly 2:00 in the afternoon, so we made ourselves at home and ordered eggs Benedict and blueberry pancakes.

This was living!

Pancakes at Hassayampa Inn

The blueberry pancakes were out of this world!

Buddy promptly stretched out in the sun while we enjoyed our late breakfast at the table. He looked over at one point and said he really liked this 20th anniversary thing!

Happy dog at Hassayampa Inn lobby in Prescott Arizona

“Can we have another 20th anniversary next week?!”

We mentioned in passing to our server that this was our 20th anniversary, and she brought us a fabulous complimentary fruit tart with ice cream. How cool is that?!

When we checked in, I was given a lovely single long stem rose. Up in our room a bottle of sparkling cider was chilling on ice along with two champagne glasses and a platter of the most delicious homemade chocolate covered fresh strawberries. (Champagne had been an option but we love sparkling cider!)

It was so much fun to be pampered.

If your Arizona travels coincide with an important occasion in your life, consider splurging for dinner or for a night or two at the Hassayampa Inn. When we were traveling full-time by RV and sailboat, the times that we stepped out of our those lives to do something different for a night or two all stand out as being among our best memories (here, here and here).

Rose and shadow

Me and my shadow.


RV patio mat 9x18

The town of Prescott is a fun blend of old shoot ‘em up cowboy history and modern artsy flair. Doc Holliday and Wyatt and Virgil Earp all hit Prescott’s bars on Whiskey Row and there’s a fantastic modern performing arts theater on the Yavapai College campus.

We roamed the main Courthouse Square at dawn and at dusk and loved seeing the area lit up in shades of pink and orange.

Yavapai County Courthouse and band stand in Prescott Arizona

The band stand and Yavapai County Courthouse at dawn.

Downtown Prescott Arizona at dawn

Looking up Gurley Street at sunrise. The Hassayampa Inn is the further building on the left

Painting of downtown Prescott AZ

Here’s the above photo converted into framed a painting via Photoshop!

Mark even snuck out an hour after sunset to get a fabulous photo of the Hassayampa Inn all lit up in its evening finest.

Hassayampa Inn in Prescott Arizona at night

Hassayampa Inn at night

Prescott sits at a much higher elevation than the Sonoran Desert areas of Phoenix, Tucson and Yuma, so they have four distinct seasons. The heavens had just dumped two feet of snow on the town in the weeks before we arrived, first one foot of snow and then a second foot of snow a few days later.

Dog and snowman in Prescott Arizona Courthouse Square Arizona

We’d arrived in Prescott right after back-to-back snow storms!

Although it was cold outside, the bars on Whiskey Row were filled with laughter and warmth.

We stopped at Matt’s Saloon, but Buddy is still underage, so we could only look in through the door.

Matt's Saloon on Whiskey Row Prescott AZ

Buddy’s too young for a brewski…

I just had to check out the swinging saloon doors, though. They’re right out of an old Western. What fun!

Swinging doors at Matt's Saloon on Whiskey Row in Prescott Arizona

I’ve always loved swinging saloon doors!

Just beyond the north edge of town, there is an incredible outcropping of fantastic rounded granite boulders next to Watson Lake known as The Dells. We had explored this area a little bit last spring when we took our trailer to Lynx Lake, and we were excited to explore a little more once again.

The Dells in Prescott Arizona

The Dells in Prescott

Ryobi drill set

The easiest place to get into the heart of The Dells is at the main boat ramp in Watson Lake Park, so we made a bee-line there.

Buddy recognized the parking area before we were parked, and he started scrambling to get out of the car before the door was open!

This has to be one of his all-time favorite places.

Puppy in the Granite Dells Prescott Arizona

Dog heaven

The Dells at Watson Lake in Prescott Arizona

The Dells is a wonderland of boulders and water.

Granite Dells Prescott Arizona

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We had hoped to catch The Dells with some snow on them. Most of the rocks were bare, but we did find a few spots with snow.

Granite Dells in Winter Prescott Arizona

Curvy snow.

On another day we hiked the Peevine Trail. This is a rails-to-trails path that goes along the eastern side of the lake.

Peevine Trail Prescott Arizona in The Dells

Peevine Trail is a wonderful rails-to-trails path

The first 1/2 mile has no views, but then all of a sudden you find yourself walking between fabulous rock formations and cliffs. You can just imagine a train making its way between the cliffs that were carved away just so it could pass. What a score it would have been for an engineer or conductor to be assigned that route!

Granite Dells in Prescott Arizona

Views everywhere.

A little further on we caught a glimpse of a small cove that is just exquisite.

Peevine Trail View in the Dells in Prescott AZ

View from the Peevine Trail.

View from the Peevine Trail in Prescott AZ

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On our way back Buddy plopped down in a shaded snow patch to cool off. He was one happy dog!

Dog resting in the snow on the Peevine Trail in Prescott Arizona Dells

Buddy cools his jets in the snow.

And so were we. Our little excursion to Prescott was the perfect getaway to commemorate our beginnings and to give us inspiration for our RV travels a few months from now.

Granite Dells in Prescott Arizona

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RV hose Water Bandit

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