March 2024 – The Salt River in eastern Arizona boasts some of the finest Sonoran Desert scenery in the state, and it’s one of our favorite places for exploring, hiking, biking, photography and relaxing in the lush desert!.
The river flows westward from Arizona’s White Mountains, and as it approaches Phoenix, a portion of it known as the Lower Salt River flows through a series of dams, creating Roosevelt Lake, Apache Lake, Canyon Lake and Saguaro Lake. The Apache Trail parallels the river on an impossibly winding and gorgeous route.
The contrast between the dry desert and these lakes makes for a unique landscape, and in the springtime it is bursting with flowers and wildlife.
We had so much fun photographing the Arizona poppies along the Bush Highway last March that we just had to return this year.
Last year the poppies exploded in a fabulous super bloom. This year the fields of gold weren’t as extensive as before. However, it was still a magical experience to see the pretty flowers and walk between the thick patches of yellow and orange.
Buddy made himself at home and promptly laid down in a thicket of poppies.
People all around us strolled slowly in wonder, stopping now and then to get selfies amid the flowers. We were no exception!
We use these two-way radios EVERYWHERE!. Hiking, biking, shopping and parking the rig! For more of our RVing tips, visit this page: RVing Tips & Tricks
These joyful flowers grow in abundance all around the Phoenix area. For some people whose yards are overrun with them each spring, they can actually be something of a nuisance. But to us, their happy faces smiling up at the sun are the very essence of Spring.
A little further down the Bush Highway, we stopped at the Water User’s Recreation Area. This is a huge parking lot and river frontage area where people launch kayaks, standup paddle boards and let their dogs and kids play in the water. There’s a fantastic view of the Salt River from the edge of the parking lot.
Sometimes when we’ve stopped at this spot we’ve seen the wild horses that are residents of the area. They come down to the water here for a drink. None were out on this particular day. However, Buddy waded in the water and took a long drink.
There are a lot of recreation areas along the Bush Highway, and each is a little different. There are cliffs and beaches and even some mesquite woods at the Coon Bluff Recreation Area.
We hiked on the short trail that parallels the Salt River and wanders between the lush green grass and mesquite trees.
Down on the riverbank we suddenly heard a loud chirping coming from a pile of boulders. Buddy quickly ran over and stared into a hole between the rocks, sniffing continuously. Sure enough, there was a ground squirrel in the hole. He came out into the sunshine for a split second and chirped for us and then darted back in the hole.
Up in the sky, a pair of geese flew by. One was honking loudly. The wildlife around here had a lot to say!
We drove on a short distance and stopped at the Phon D Sutton Recreation Area. This spot is at the confluence of the Salt River and the Verde River, and there’s not only wildlife all around but lots of human activity too. it’s a beautiful place to spend an afternoon.
We hiked a short trail that goes along the river’s edge, and Buddy suddenly stopped and laid down for a brief rest while he surveyed the pretty landscape from a nice spot in the shade.
Four Peaks appeared far out on the horizon. From this vantage point we were seeing the “front” of Four Peaks while when we RV camped at Roosevelt Lake further upstream on the Salt River a few weeks ago, we were looking at the “back” of Four Peaks.
In the opposite direction, Red Mountain cast a reflection in the glassy water.
As I mentioned, Phon D Sutton (along with all the other Recreation Areas on the Salt River) is a popular place for all kinds of outdoor activities. While we were there, a group of people began bringing inflatable kayaks down to the water’s edge. First it was two yellow kayaks. Then two yellows and a red. Then two yellows, a red and a green. In no time the shoreline was filled with a rainbow of kayaks.
A fly fisherman stood in the water casting his line, and a photographer grinned happily between shots.
The Reese Goose Box was a GAME CHANGER for us. We got the bed of our truck back (yay!) and hitching/unhitching is easy.
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The Bush Highway, Coon Bluff and Phon D Sutton are all near the city of Mesa. Further upstream on the Salt River, on the northeastern edge of the city of Apache Junction, lies one of Arizona’s most spectacular scenic drives: the Apache Trail (State Route 88).
This incredible winding road goes through some of the finest Sonoran Desert scenery in the state on a road that began as a trail used by the Apache Indians before the settlers arrived.
In 1903 road construction began to link the city of Mesa with the construction site for the Roosevelt Dam. In just a year, the first 64 miles of the road from Mesa to the Roosevelt Dam (which created Roosevelt Lake) was completed for a cost of $200,000. Two years later, in 1905, the entire 112 mile long road through this very treacherous terrain was completed for a total cost of $500,000.
The road builders were predominantly Apache Indians, and they built the road using pick axes and shovels along with dynamite. What an impressive feat!
Today, the 37 miles of road through the most treacherous part of the original 112 mile long Apache Trail goes from Apache Junction to Roosevelt Lake and takes dozens of sweeping turns on a hilly run out towards the dam.
Only the first 15 miles are paved, however. And the 22 mile long dirt portion, which used to make for a very exciting ride, is currently washed out in a few places due to flooding in 2019, so it’s closed.
As we drove this beloved road, we reminisced about racing our bicycles on the paved portion after work on hot summer Wednesday evenings back in the day! It was a crazy race, but so much fun. It was typically 115 degrees, and we’d both put in a full work day already, but all our cares slipped away as we rode at top speed on this scenic route.
On our drive last week, we were alarmed when we saw a sheriff’s car and an ambulance parked by the side of a particularly tight turn, lights flashing.
People routinely drive this road way too fast, and a surprising number go over the edge. Seeing the car at the bottom of the cliff was a great reminder to take our time and drive slowly. After all, why rush on such a beautiful drive?!
Along the way, two trestle bridges cross tributary streams that flow into the river.
The Apache Trail follows a portion of the Salt River that is dammed to form a series of lakes: Roosevelt Lake, Apache Lake, Canyon Lake and Saguaro Lake. As we turned a corner, we could see Canyon Lake in the distance.
A delightful way to see Canyon Lake is to take a ride on the Dolly Steamboat. We enjoyed that wonderful boat ride a few years ago when a crew from Camping World was filming us for a promotional video. It was a lot of fun to float through a Sonoran Desert canyon!
We’ve also taken the boat ride on Saguaro Lake aboard the Desert Belle. If you have a chance, either boat ride (or both) is well worth doing. Drifting through spectacular Sonoran Desert scenery is a captivating way to spend a few hours.
There are also several recreation areas near the Dolly Steamboat dock, and we stopped at Acacia Recreation Area to explore. This is a gorgeous spot with a beach, picnic tables, shade trees and stunning views of the canyon walls across the water.
A young family was enjoying a picnic on a blanket while a little girl and her dad fished at the water’s edge.
We used two of these solar panels to upgrade our toy hauler's factory-installed 200 watt system to a 600 watt system.
See our DIY installation here:
RV Solar Power Upgrade
The paved portion of the Apache Trail ends just beyond Tortilla Flat, a small complex of historic buildings with a restaurant. This place is a magnet for convertible drivers and motorcyclists who love to ride the sweeping turns of the Apache Trail and then stop for lunch.
On our way back we saw an opening for a small trail that went down to a stream. Buddy cooled his paws in the water and Mark did too when he accidentally stepped into deep water that came in over the tops of his boots!
The whole Lower Salt River area from Roosevelt Lake to the Apache Trail to the river access points on the Bush Highway is a rich playground for outdoor lovers, and we keep going back and back again!
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More info about the Lower Salt River recreation areas and the Apache Trail:
- Salt River Info – Tourism website
- Apache Trail Info – Tourism website
- Dolly Steamboat ride on Canyon Lake – Official website
- Desert Belle boat ride on Saguaro Lake – Official website
- Apache Trail – Google Maps
- Bush Highway – Google Maps
Other blog posts from our visits to the Salt River and Apache Trail:
- A Majestic Scenic Drive in Arizona – The Bush Highway
- Arizona’s Stunning Apache Trail Scenic Drive
- Camping World Video Shoot — RVing is for Everyone!
- Dolly Steamboat – Gliding Through the Arizona Desert on Canyon Lake
- Exploring the Lower Salt River and Apache Trail in Arizona!
- Fall Colors and Wildlife on the Sonoran Desert Rivers in Arizona
- Hunting Spring Wildflowers in Arizona
- Phoenix on the Wing – Waterbirds of Arizona!
- Rainbows and Wild Horses in the Arizona Desert!
- Saguaro Lake – On the Waterfront in Phoenix
- Where to See WILDFLOWERS (especially POPPIES) in Arizona 2023!
- Wild Horses of the Salt River in Phoenix
More blog posts from our trips to central Arizona:
- Windy Hill Campground + Tonto National Monument
- We’re Alive and Well and Camping in Arizona!
- ViewPoint RV & Golf Resort – RVer’s and Golfer’s Delight!
- Tonto National Monument AZ – Workamping with the Ancients!
- Tonto National Monument AZ – Lower Cliff Dwellings
- To Catch a Hummingbird (on camera!)
- The Wind Cave Hike in Phoenix AZ – The Hills are Alive!
- Snow in the Arizona Desert – A Beautiful Fairy Dusting!
- Saguaros and Sunsets in Phoenix Arizona
- RV Camping with the Rock Art Petroglyphs in Gila Bend, AZ
- Roosevelt Lake, AZ – Desert Oasis
- Roosevelt Lake – Lakeside Camping in AZ
- Rivers of Phoenix – Oases in the Desert!
- Ranch Sorting Competition – Cowboy Adventures in Phoenix Arizona
- Phoenix Sonoran Preserve – A City Escape
- Phoenix Parks – Saguaros and Sisters
- Peach Faced Lovebirds in Phoenix, AZ – Parrots in Cactus!
- Monte Vista RV Resort in AZ – Arts, Crafts and Sports Fun!
- Merry Christmas – Arizona RV Style!
- McDowell Sonoran Preserve in Scottsdale AZ
- Magical Moments in the RV Life
- Lost Dutchman State Park: GORGEOUS scenery & RV campground!
- Lost Dutchman State Park Campground – Arizona Gold in the Superstitions
- Lake Pleasant & Canyon Lake – Waterfront Camping in Arizona’s Sonoran Desert
- Florence, AZ – Few Tourists & Lots of Soul!
- Fiery Sunsets and Interesting Folks in the Arizona Desert
- Fall Color in Arizona’s Sonoran Desert near Roosevelt Lake
- Dead Horse Ranch State Park + Tuzigoot and Clarkdale
- Copper Mines, NOT CAMPING, in Tonto National Forest – Why?
- Catalina State Park & Roosevelt Lake: RV Camping in AZ
- Castle Hot Springs and Other AZ Treasures near Lake Pleasant
- Burrowing owls in Gilbert, Arizona – They’re a Hoot!
- Arizona, Here We Come – Space Aliens of All Kinds!
- “RaVeS” Cafe for RVers in Mesa AZ
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