Best Friends Animal Sanctuary & Southwest Wildlife Foundation in Utah

Best Friends Animal Sanctuary

Reception Building

Avian greeters

Joey, Hyacinth Macaw

South America

Honey, Major Mitchell Cocaktoo

Australia

Seppi, Mollucan Cockatoo

native to Indonesia

Writes a column in the monthly magazine

Quetzl, Congo African Grey

Age 54 - the same as Mark!

Tika, Umbrella Cockatoo, native to Indonesia

"Angel Canyon"

The sanctuary sits on 5 stunning square miles

Rescued horses live in Horse Haven

Angel's Rest Cemetery

Cemetery plots for all the animals. No animals are

killed; most are fostered out to new homes; a lucky

few live out their days at the sanctuary.

The cat house at Best Friends Animal Sanctuary, Kanab, Utah

The cat house

Siesta time at the Cat House Best Friends Animal Sanctuary, Kanab, Utah

Siesta time

The Bunny House Best Friends Animal Sanctuary, Kanab, Utah At the Bunny House Best Friends Animal Sanctuary, Kanab, Utah

Bunny companionship

At the Bunny House Best Friends Animal Sanctuary, Kanab, Utah

All the bunnies, dogs and cats

have indoor/outdoor living

quarters, and they come and go

at will.

The Bunny House at Best Friends Animal Sanctuary, Kanab, Utah

Nothing like some soft green grass for your

campsite.

Dogtown Heights at Best Friends Animal Sanctuary, Kanab, Utah Southwest Wildlife Foundation

Martin Tyner & Thumper, a Harris Hawk

22 years old, reaches speeds of 100 mph

Igor, a Prairie Falcon Southwest Wildlife Foundation

Igor, a Prairie Falcon

Dives for prey at 200 mph

Scout, a Golden Eagle Southwest Wildlife Foundation

Scout, a Golden Eagle

Can spot a yummy rabbit from 5 miles away.

Golden Eagle: 7 lbs and 7,000 feathers Southwest Wildlife Foundation

Golden Eagle: 7 lbs and 7,000 feathers

Can reach altitudes of 35,000 feet

and hurtle towards earth at 145 mph

Raptors - Southwest Wildlife Foundation

Each raptor got many hugs during the seminar.

A different golden eagle was released later that day

from an overlook in Cedar City, UT.

Utah Sanctuaries: Best Friends & Southwest Wildlife Foundation

July 15-19, 2008 - Kanab, Utah sits squarely between three of

the greatest national parks in the US, and we stopped there,

along with everyone else, for supplies, water and haircuts.  We

didn't intend to stay, but as we were leaving town we saw a cute

sign that said "Best Friends Animal Sanctuary" with an arrow

pointing down a winding road that seemed to go deep into a

canyon.  We couldn't resist the temptation and took that turn.

Four days later we finally emerged!!

Best Friends is a unique,

extraordinarily well-funded and

beautiful no-kill animal shelter.

It sits on 5 square miles of

exotic red rock canyon and

houses 2,000 animals.  Their

mission is to find homes for all

the animals that are adoptable, while the rest are allowed to live out their days in the loving care

of an enormous staff.  The grounds and landscaping alone are worth seeing, but it was the

many tours of the various animal areas that kept us in that canyon so long.

I am a bird lover, and the parrot garden is a treat.  On

summer days, all the parrots are kept in outdoor enclosures under a canopy of huge shade

trees near a pretty waterfall feature.  Visitors are invited to interact with the parrots, and we

spent many happy hours entertaining and being entertained by these squawking, talking,

feathered comedians.  The parrots' nighttime quarters

are indoors, so twice a day during the summer months

the bird caretakers do the Parrot Parade, carrying each

bird between its indoor enclosure and its outdoor

enclosure.  On the hottest summer afternoons the

caretakers walk around misting the birds with water

sprayers to help them stay cool.  What a life!

An important

theme at the

sanctuary is

positive

interactions

between the

animals and

people.  All the tours are free, and you can

volunteer to stick around and work with your

favorite animals for as little as a few hours or

for as long as you want to stay.  There are

cabins and a tiny RV park in the canyon to

accommodate volunteers, and many return

for a week or two every year.

Seppi, a Mollucan cockatoo, likes to walk

along the underside of the

roof of his cage, hanging

upside down and talking to

you.  Quetzl, a quiet

African Grey, was hatched

in 1954 but doesn't look a

day over five.  Tika, an

Umbrella cockatoo, was

summering at the sanctuary

while his owner took care of

some personal challenges.

He was accustomed to a lot

of attention, so he was happy

to climb into my arms and get

some free cuddles for a while.

The canyon, officially "Kanab Canyon" but affectionately called "Angel Canyon," is a

dramatic gorge lined with towering red rock cliffs.  Most sanctuary tours require a

shuttlebus ride of a few miles from the reception building out into the rest of the

property: Dogtown Heights, the Cat House, Feathered Friends and the Bunny House.

The drive along the cliff's edges is stunning, and we passed some

of the sanctuary horses who live a charmed life, grazing in peace

while gazing at multi-million dollar views.

Angel's Rest cemetery is along this road as well.  Every animal that dies at the

shelter is buried here with a headstone.  There are tiny plots for the little birds and

big plots for the large farm animals.  Even horses, goats and cows are adopted out

to new homes, whenever possible, and the video shown hourly at the reception

building included snapshots of many happy people who had become loving owners

of goats, sheep and other farm animals.

Most of the animal

buildings are built with

wings that provide an

indoor shelter with a

doorway the animals can

pass through to reach an

outdoor shelter.  At the

cat house, the outdoor areas include ladders, pillowed perches, and a

lattice-work of planks and shelving near the ceiling.  Litter boxes, food

and water dishes are discreetly placed in these out-of-reach alcoves.

Looking up, all we could see was the

odd paw or tail hanging down from

the lofty hideaways.  It was siesta

time, and all the cats were happily

dozing.

The bunnies have indoor/outdoor

housing as well, and since bunnies

like to cuddle, many had a stuffed

bunny to snuggle up to.  Outside, one bunny

was working very hard digging a hole, while a

few others were taking a load off under little

tent-like canopies that offered cool shade in a

lush bed of soft green grass.

Dogtown was a busy barking array of buildings.  Most of the

dogs from Michael Vicks' dog-fighting operation had just been

rescued, and many dogs from Katrina were still in transition

here.  We heard amazing stories of animal rescues.  One lady

had 200 guinea pigs living in her 10' x 10' kitchen, and another

wacko had 1,600 rabbits in her back yard.  1,000 cats were

taken from a crazy lady's home in Pahrump, Nevada, and as I

heard the tale from a caretaker I remembered reading about it in

the Pahrump newspaper when we visited eight months earlier.

All those cats, rabbits and guinea pigs had passed through Best

Friends to new owners or were still at the sanctuary hoping for

new homes.

Before an animal is adopted out, it must go on an overnight stay to ensure that it is a well-behaved

propsective pet.  Visitors can volunteer for these overnight stays, without obligation, at Parry Lodge in

Kanab.  If the animal flunks the test, it simply gets a little more loving at the sanctuary, as the caretakers

work to improve its manners.

August 30, 2008 - In Parowan, Utah, at the Iron

County State Fair, we attended a fantastic

demonstration and talk by Martin Tyner, founder

of Southwest Wildlife Foundation.  His

sanctuary focuses on rehabilitating native

creatures and returning them to the wild.  It was

my understanding that Rocky Mountain Power

Company has recently donated a huge, multi-million dollar parcel of land

to this sanctuary.  Eventually, once money is raised for land

improvements and building construction, this foundation could become

for native wildlife what Best Friends already is for more domesticated

animals.

He had three raptors with him:  a Harris Hawk, a Prairie Falcon and a

Golden Eagle.  He is a Master Falconer, and although he uses each of these

particular birds for education purposes, he takes them all out hunting on a

regular basis to keep their natural instincts sharp.  His job is to flush out rabbits

and other prey from the desert brush so the raptors can catch their meals.  They

fly free, and they fly high, happy to have a trained human to take the guesswork

out of finding dinner.

He told us of the highly aggressive nature of the Prairie Falcon, a slim bird that

screamed periodically throughout his talk.  A few years back he had rescued and

rehabilitated a particularly aggressive female that had deserved her nickname

"Horrible."  He released her into the desert near Cedar City, and she became a

great mom and has raised several clutches of young since then.  But she's oh-

so-smart.  She recognizes his truck from their many hunting outings together

when she was in his care.  Now, when he brings other raptors into the desert to

hunt, she goes out of her way to tease and harrass him.  One time, as he stood

with his arm outstretched waiting for his raptor to return to him, she dived

at him from the other direction, knocking him to the ground six feet away!

At the moment of impact, he suddenly understood exactly the kind of

blood-draining terror that rabbits feel when a Prairie Falcon singles them

out for a lunch date.

He invited everyone at the talk to come out to the highest ridge in Cedar

City later that afternoon to witness his release of a Golden Eagle back

into the wild.  We didn't attend, but he said that whenever he releases a

bird he welcomes spectators, so hopefully we will watch a release

another time.  He told us that the local Paiute Indians have a special

relationship with Golden Eagles.  They believe that if you say a prayer

over an eagle feather, the prayer will

be carried directly to God.  The Golden

Eagle being released that afternoon

was going to carry prayers for more

than 4,000 local cancer victims, the "down winders" in southern Utah who contracted cancer as a

direct result of the Cold War era nuclear testing carried out next door in Nevada.

Unrelated to these two wonderful animal sanctuaries in Utah, I recently discovered that Bird

Lovers Only Rescue in Dyer, Indiana has a very funny movie clip of a lesser sulphur crested

cockatoo dancing to the beat of the Backstreet Boys here.  It puts a smile on my face every time I

watch it.

We spent the summer of 2008 bee-bopping around souther Utah, and one of the most eye-

popping stops was at the majestic Bryce Canyon National Park.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2007 Fleetwood Prowler Lynx 27′ Travel Trailer

We lived fulltime in our Fleetwood Prowler Lynx 270 FQS travel trailer, a good RV for fulltiming! The 27' Fleetwood Prowler Lynx 270FQS is a great RV for the fulltime RV lifestyle, even though it's a travel trailer A 27' travel trailer, the Fleetwood Prowler Lynx 270 FQS, has enough space for a part-time RV lifestyle but not enough for fulltiming

This layout is great for two people but is limited for

entertaining.

The Fleetwood Prowler Lynx 270FQS has an open floorplan that we liked for our fulltime RV lifestyle The 27' Fleetwood Prowler Lynx 270FQS travel trailer RV has an open floorplan -- good for fulltime RVers like us

The sofa and dinette are in a big slide

We opened the jackknife sofa all the time in our 27' Fleetwood Prowler Lynx 270FQS when we were living in that RV fulltime

The "jackknife" sofa easily folds out into a double bed. 

The dinette also folds down into a child-size bed.

We used the TV a lot in our Fleetwood Prowler Lynx 270 FQS travel trailer when we lived in that RV fulltime

The TV can be turned to face the bed or the sofa.  There

is a cigarette lighter on the wall that we used for our

inverter so we could watch TV and DVDs while

drycamping.

The kitchen in our 27' Fleetwood Prowler Lynx 270FQS travel trailer was a little small for our fulltime RV lifestyle

This little kitchen produced many great meals.

The 27' Fleetwood Prowler Lynx 270FQS is a smart floorplan that worked well for our fulltime RV lifestyle

Lynx Floorplan

solar panel installation (Kyocera 130 watt) on our 27' Fleetwood Prowler Lynx 270FQS travel trailer, our fulltime RV

Mark installs the solar panel on the roof of the trailer.

This gives us all the electricity we need without having

to hook up.

Solar panel installation (130 watt Kyocera) on our 27' Fleetwood Prowler Lynx 270FQS travel trailer, the RV we lived in fulltime

Getting psyched to start drilling holes in the roof.  Mark

was naturally quite worried about this part of the

installation.

solar panel installation (Kyocera 130 watt) on our 27' travel trailer, a Fleetwood Prowler Lynx 270FQS, our fulltime RV

Westport-Union State Park Campground in California

about 150 miles north of San Francisco was a nice

place to do this installation.

Kyocera 130 watt solar panel on the roof of our RV, a 27' Fleetwood Prowler Lynx 270FQS travel trailer, our fulltime RV home

Finished product, situated between a roof hatch and the

folded down TV antenna.

2007 Fleetwood Prowler Lynx 270FQS

We purchased our Fleetwood Lynx travel trailer as a fulltime RV,

and we lived in it from May, 2007 to May, 2008.  We bought it with

the idea of "Go cheap, go small, go now."  We wanted to use our

existing truck ('04 Toyota Tundra), and this trailer was the largest

size that our truck could handle (theoretically).  We wanted a travel

trailer so we could have a cap on the truck and keep our bikes out

of the elements.  What appealed to us about the Lynx was its very

spacious interior for its length.  It had an open and airy feeling

inside, and had a lot of storage space.  It was the ideal introduction

to larger sized RVs.

The 2007 Fleetwood Prowler Lynx 270FQS is a 29'

travel trailer from end to end, including the hitch, and

is 27' x 8' inside with a 3' x 14' slideout, providing 240

square feet of living space.  It weighs 5,500 lbs dry

and has a GVWR of 7,300 lbs.  It was billed as "half-

ton towable" but we had trouble towing it through the

mountains with our 2004 4.7 liter Toyota Tundra.  We

towed it for about 4,000 miles with that truck and

then replaced the truck with a Dodge Ram 3500

diesel.  The trailer holds 40 gallons of fresh water, 40

gallons of grey and 40 gallons of black.  It has a

15,000 BTU air conditioner and 35,000 BTU furnace.

There is a single slide that is 3' x 14' which contains the dinette and

sofa.  The queen bed on this model was a short queen (74.5" x 60"),

but Mark modified it to be a full quuen (80"x60").  The bed lifts up to

a huge storage area underneath that can be accessed by hatch

doors on both sides of the trailer.  It has a 6 cubic foot refrigerator,

kitchen sink, range, microwave and pantry.  The bathroom has a

shower, toilet and sink.

We used an Equalizer hitch with a 12,000 lb rating.  The hitch broke

twice.  Fortunately we were not hurt either time.  The first time the

welds cracked all around the hitch head.  The second time one of the

two bolts holding the hitch together sheered off when we came down

a driveway leaving a bank parking lot.  Equalizer was very good and

replaced the hitch head when the welds broke.  We replaced the hitch

bolts with #8 rather than #5 bolts (only a few bucks) just a few miles

from where we noticed the one had sheered off.  We got 9-10 mpg

while towing with the Tundra and 11-12 mpg while towing with the Dodge.

This trailer was an ideal starter for fulltime RVing.  In it we learned about

solar power, inverters and boondocking, and it taught us about the things

that were vital and the things that were unimportant in a fulltime rig.  In the

end we realized the Tundra was not strong enough to tow the Lynx and we

upgraded to a long bed, single rear wheel Dodge Ram 3500 one ton.  It was

more truck than the Lynx needed, but we purchased it knowing that one day

we might get a fifth wheel.

By starting with the little Lynx we got on the road sooner rather than later,

and we had time to research alternative big rigs at leisure.  As we traveled

we quizzed everyone we met in a larger trailer to find out what they liked

and didn't like about it.

We visited dealerships in towns from Oregon to Florida and slowly educated

ourselves about the brands, makes and models of the larger rigs.

There is no way that we could have done that kind of research when

we were working.  We finally  decided the Lynx was too small during

the long cold winter nights, and being a lightly built "half-ton towable"

trailer, it was a little fragile for the long term.  We also discovered that

it was very awkward to get into the storage space in the back of the

truck and we decided the bikes didn't really have to be stored out of

the elements.

Our solar setup on this rig was one Kyocera 130 watt solar panel

mounted permanently to the roof (not able to be tilted towards the

sun), and a Morningstar Sunsaver charge controller connected initially

to two 12 volt Nautilus Group 24 batteries.  We upgraded the batteries

to two 6 volt Energizer batteries from Sam's Club after six months.

The first pair of batteries had 140 amp-hours of capacity and the

second pair had 220 amp-hours of capacity.  The solar charging

setup provided about 25-50 amp-hours of battery charging capacity

per day, which meant that we could use about that much battery

power in the trailer each day without running the batteries down.

We had an 800 watt inverter connected directly to the batteries and we

ran a power strip style extension cord from its AC receptacle through

the storage area under the bed and into the trailer.  We had to go

outside to open the storage hatch to turn on this inverter, so we used it

only when we wanted to run the vacuum cleaner (which draws 300-400

watts).

Inside the trailer there was a cigarette-lighter style DC connector for

the antenna boost system on the wall next to the TV shelf.  We kept a

tiny Radio Shack 150 watt inverter on the shelf and turned it on

whenever we wanted to charge the computer, the razor, the camera

batteries or the toothbrush, or whenever we wanted to watch TV or

DVDs.  This little inverter's fan quit once, but Mark lubed it up with

WD-40 and it ran daily for 3-6 hours each day for the year that we

lived in this trailer.  It is amazing that a tiny $60 gadget could give us the ability to run all the AC appliances that we wanted to run

(except the vacuum).  We had never used a microwave much in our house, so we didn't bother getting an inverter large enough

to support the microwave (950 watts).  So we used the microwave as a breadbox.

We drycamped 83% of the time that first year -- 305 nights.  The solar

setup was more than adequate for the entire year except for the cold

winter months, December - February.  Until that time we never paid

much attention to our electrical use.  The four LEDs that showed the

status of the batteries generally had all four LEDs lit whenever we

checket it.  During the winter months the days were short, so the

panel did not have much time to get its charging done; the sun rode

low in the sky, so the panel did not sit at a great angle to the sun; and

the nights were long, so we sat around for hours while it was dark

outside, running the lights and the battery-draining furnace.  To

compensate, we used oil lamps for light at night and we wore a lot of

layers.  This is okay for a "roughing it" vacation, but it wore on our

spirits after a while.  It was clear by the end of the winter that we

needed more solar and battery capacity, a non-battery-draining

heating system, and more seating options in the trailer!

In the end it was hard to let the little Lynx go.  John and Carl at the dealership where we traded it in were very patient as we

continually sang its praises and wondered aloud whether the new huge fifth wheel would measure up.  The Lynx had everything

we needed, and if we had been traveling just 6-9 months a year we never would have given it up.  However, when your only

home is your trailer, little things like comfortable furniture, space to lie down on the floor and stretch, and general ruggedness

become important.  I'm not 100% sure, but I think the fellow that bought the Lynx from the dealership was a man who had just lost

his home -- a 1980's vintage Holiday Rambler travel trailer -- to a tornado that had flattened his town of Pricher Oklahoma.  If that

is the case, then I know the Lynx is very much appreciated by its new owner.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bryce Canyon, UT – Fairyland of Pink Turrets

Inspiration Point overlooking Bryce Ampitheater

Inspiration Point overlooking Bryce Ampitheater

Bryce Canyon Point

Bryce Canyon Point

Smiles everywhere at Bryce Canyon

Smiles everywhere

Stunning views at Bryce Canyon, Utah Stunning views at Bryce Canyon, Utah

Natural symmetry

Stunning views at Bryce Canyon, Utah

The regularity and precision of

these formations can be dizzying.

Trees cling to the rim at Bryce Canyon, Utah

Trees cling to the rim

Bryce Canyon Ampitheater

Bryce Ampitheater

Rim views, Bryce Canyon, Utah Beginning of Queen's Garden hike Bryce Canyon, Utah

Beginning of Queen's Garden hike

The spires give way to a smooth, orange and red moonscape at Bryce Canyon, Utah

The spires give way to a smooth, orange and red

moonscape

Bryce Canyon, Utah

Trees from another planet

Queen's Garden Bryce Canyon, Utah

End of the trail -- at Queen's

Garden

Nature's Wall Street at Bryce Canyon, Utah

Nature's Wall Street

Looking down from the top of the Wall Street switchbacks at Bryce Canyon, Utah

The top of the Wall Street switch backs

Bryce Canyon, Utah Bryce Lodge has many cute cabins for guests

Bryce Lodge has many cute cabins for guests

The Peek-a-boo hike at Bryce Canyon defies nature's laws and seems to ascend for the entire loop.

The Peek-a-boo hike defies nature's laws and seems

to ascend for the entire loop.

Serenity along the hiking trails at Bryce Canyon

Serenity

Spires and spikey trees surrounded us at Bryce Canyon, Utah

Spires and spikey trees surrounded

us

Peek-a-boo, the namesake of the Peek-a-boo trail at Bryce Canyon

Peek-a-boo

Seeming chess pieces at Bryce Canyon

At times it seemed as though we were wandering

among towering chess pieces.

Stunning view at Bryce Canyon, Utah

A promontory hangs into the canyon for an awe

inspiring view.  A good place to take a breather!

Tunnels and arches at Bryce Canyon, Utah

Little tunnels and hobbit doorways invite the hiker to

vast views on the other side.

Bryce Canyon National Park, Utah

July 20-August 20, 2008 - We had

arrived in the lower elevations of

Kanab, UT and visited Best

Friends Animal Sanctuary,

during a peak week of monsoon

activity.  Monsoons are a

southwest phenomenon that give

the desert's much needed

moisture and relief from the heat

in mid-summer.  I had learned

about them living in Arizona, but

had never known that they could

spread their salve as far north as

southern Utah and even over into

southern Colorado.  It is magic to

watch the sky cloud over promptly

at noon every day, and there is a

lusciousness to being drenched

by brief downpours every

afternoon.  These storms leave

the air crisp and clear, and they

keep the ferocious heat to a minimum.  Once the monsoons abated, we

found ourselves in an oven, baking by noon, and burnt to a crisp by

evening.  Full of energy at the break of day, we were lethargic sloths by

nightfall.  It was time to get back to the higher elevations.  We left Kanab

for Ruby's Inn, a settlement just outside of Bryce Canyon National Park at

7,500 feet.

Bryce Canyon

is a wonderland of pink and white

spires, laid out with amazing

symmetry.  The open bowl of

crystalline formations carved from

the surrounding flat plains

resembles an ampitheater.  The

man who first ranched the area

around Rubys Inn in the 1800's

had no idea the canyon was just

beyond his land.  Imagine the

look on his face when, at the

suggestion of a knowledgeable

neighbor, he took his family on an

excursion to the rim!  It is a place that evokes smiles

in everyone, and as we rode the shuttle bus to the

view points and walked the many trails that lead

along the edge and down into the canyon, I was

struck by how happy everyone was.  Children love

this place.

We walked along the Rim, from

Bryce Point to Inspiration Point,

and watched a fantastic summer

thunderstorm creep over the

valley until we had to run for

cover ourselves.  This land was

carved by a divine hand using the

tools of wind and rain to erode the

rock into fantastic formations.  I

was awed by the regularity of the

carvings.  Rows upon rows of

spires stand in perfect military

formation.

At the top the

trees cling to the rim for dear life,

their roots clawing at the

crumbling gravel as their

branches wave ominously in the

breeze, threatening to rip the

trees from the edge.  At the

bottom the trees pierce the air

above them, the dark green

spikes contrasting with the

orange and white striped spears

of rock.

We hiked down into the canyon to

the Queen's Garden.  As you descend on this hike,

the land becomes otherworldly.  Between the spires,

the land forms smooth, rounded slopes and the

trees are short and twisted.  The noise of the

tourists at the rim fades away behind you and the

solitude and odd surroundings seem like a

moonscape.  The emotional

anchor of the ordinary looking

grassy fields and ranches that

surround Bryce Canyon

disappear from view, and you

find yourself on the moon, or

mars, looking up at the red rock

spires, repeating the mantra:

"Wow!"

The gravel path winds in and out

of the spires, abandoning one

spectacular sight as it takes a

sharp turn around a bend

towards another.  We walked

through several doorways and

tunnels, emerging from each to

find ourselves staring at yet

another splendid work of art by

Nature.  People linger on these

trails. Llittle groups and pairs line

themselves up for photos, posing

all over this spectacular setting.

Cameras are handed around

trustingly between strangers in

order to get everyone in each

group into the pictures.  "I'll take

one for you if you'll take one for

me," is the phrase of the day,

sometimes said in broken English,

and often accompanied with gestures and sign language.  Cameras are all

shapes and sizes.  "Just press the button."  Lots of nodding and pointing.

Everyone is grinning.  None of us can wait to show these pictures to our

friends back home.  All the photos turn out great.

At the very bottom we came to a plaque that showed us

Queen Victoria.  This was the Queen's Garden.  She is

at the tippy top of a spire.  She looks very regal, and

very wee.  In time she will erode away and be replaced

by other shapes.  Looking around at the other hoodoo

rock formations, we made out a medieval friar and a

great horned owl to accompany the queen.

We had descended about a thousand feet and had to

climb back up again to the rim.  We chose the route that

goes through Wall Street, where the red rock walls

close around you like skyscrapers but much closer.  A

switchback trail takes you up until you look way down

on the tiny pine trees at the base.  Then you climb

higher til the people seem mere specks.  Your heart

pounds from the exertion of climbing

straight up, and when you reach the

top the view takes your breath away

yet again.

We wandered along the rim and met

a little girl holding a camera that was

as big as she was.  What a smile she

had as that camera clicked away.

The Bryce Canyon Lodge is the

oldest original National Park lodge still

standing; the others at Yellowstone,

Grand Canyon and the rest all

succombed to fire at one time or

another and were rebuilt.  Bryce isn't immune to

wildfires, however, and there were many "prescribed

burns" in action while we were there as the Park Service

attempted to keep the woods thinned so they wouldn't

be prone to future fires.

We spent a few days riding our bikes and hiking in the

areas away from Bryce Canyon and then returned to do

the Peek-a-boo hike.  We were both surprised at how

the grins came back to our faces and the "wow" formed

on our lips again as soon as we walked up to the rim.

What a place.

We had no idea why the Peek-a-boo hike has its name,

and we descended into the canyon away from the

crowds wondering what laid

ahead.

Once again, as we walked down

into the canyon, we felt an

almost physical sensation cloak

our bodies as the immense quiet and peace of this place enveloped us.

Suddenly, we looked up at a wall of spires and saw one hole, and then

another.  "So that's why it's called Peek-a-boo!"  Mark said, mugging for

the camera.  We walked with our heads up and our eyes on the peaks,

tripping occasionally.  But you can't look down on this hike, even as you

stumble.

The trail

twisted and turned and double-backed on itself between formations.  I

felt like a rat in a maze, or a child stomping around on an enormous

chessboard.

We did a lot of climbing on this hike, more than seemed physically

possible for a loop hike.  Mark walked faster than I did (he didn't

bring his camera and mine kept slowing me down!), and I turned a

corner and looked up to see him happily surveying the view from

an ideal vantage point.  Once I caught up to him we sat together

for a moment.

When we turned to continue on, we were facing a little doorway.  As we passed through the door

to the glittering view on the other side, I felt like Dorothy as she steps out of her Kansas house

into the colorful Land of OZ.

After a few weeks at our "ranch

house" outside of Bryce Canyon,

among the cattle, ponderosa pines

and pronghorn, overlooking grazing

lands that stretched to the horizon,

we felt like it was home.  Our TV got

great NBC reception, so we stayed to

watch most of the Beijing Olympics.  It

was very hard to tear ourselves away,

but eventually the day came, and

once we hit the road, the excitement

of discovering new places propelled us forward and made us eager to

leave.  We bumped into the sweet village of Alton and gradually made

our way over the mountains to Parowan and Cedar City.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Subscribe
Never miss a post — it’s free!

More info about Bryce Canyon National Park:

More blog posts from our RV trips to Bryce Canyon

Related posts from our RV travels:

Our most recent posts:

More of our Latest Posts are in the MENU.
New to this site? Visit RVers Start Here to find where we keep all the good stuff!!

Grand Canyon’s North Rim – Its Better Half?

All American Road Route 67 Jacobs Lake AZ to North Rim Grand Canyon Arizona seen from our RV

The road to the North Rim winds through meadows.

All American Road Route 67 Jacobs Lake AZ to North Rim Grand Canyon Arizona monsoon season from our RV

Monsoon season was just starting.

Boondocking in our RV, Kaibab National Forest near the North Rim of the Grand Canyon AZ

A little piece of heaven camping in the Kaibab

National Forest.

Western Tanager in the Kaibab National Forest

Western Tanager

Vista Encantada lookout North Rim Grand Canyon Arizona

Vista Encantada

Angel's Window lookout North Rim Grand Canyon Arizona

Angel's Window

Cape Royal lookout North Rim Grand Canyon AZ

Cape Royal

Cliff Rose in bloom at the North Rim Grand Canyon AZ

Cliff Rose

Cape Royal lookout North Rim Grand Canyon AZ

Cape Royal

Cape Royal

Walhalla Lookout North Rim Grand Canyon AZ

Walhalla Lookout

North Rim Lodge at the North Rim of the Grand Canyon, Arizona

The North Rim Lodge has

exceptional views.

Sofa Room at the North Rim Lodge Grand Canyon AZ

Sofa Room at the Lodge

North Rim Lodge Dining Room Grand Canyon AZ

Lodge Dining Room

Sun Porch at the North Rim Lodge Grand Canyon AZ

Sun Porch at the Lodge

Bright Angel Point Trail North Rim Grand Canyon AZ

Bright Angel Point trail

Bright Angel Point North Rim Grand Canyon Arizona Bright Angel Point North Rim Grand Canyon Arizona

Bright Angel Point

Bright Angel Point North Rim Grand Canyon AZ

Bright Angel Point

Hiking in the Kaibab National Forest North Rim Grand Canyon AZ

Hiking in the Kaibab forest

Lupines blooming in the Kaibab National Forest North Rim Grand Canyon, AZ

We came across a clearing overflowing with lupines.

Lupines blooming in the Kaibab National Forest North Rim Grand Canyon, AZ Lupines blooming in the Kaibab National Forest North Rim Grand Canyon, AZ make great photos Aspens clustered in the Kaibab National Forest North Rim Grand Canyon, AZ

The aspens cluster together.

Black butterfly in the Kaibab National Forest North Rim Grand Canyon AZ Point imperial Lookout North Rim Grand Canyon, Arizona

Point imperial Lookout

Imperial Point North Rim Grand Canyon AZ

Imperial Point

Hiking Ken Patrick Trail from Point Imperial North Rim Grand Canyon AZ

Ken Patrick Trail from Point Imperial

Grand Canyon - North Rim

June 24 - July 13, 2008 - We left Flagstaff in search of cooler weather,

and we found that and much more at the North Rim of the Grand

Canyon.  The road from Jacob Lake to the North Rim is 44 miles of

graceful beauty.

After descending through dense woods, some of which were badly

burned in a wildfire in 2005, the road shakes out its curves, the tall

pines step back, and you fly along through lush meadows.  These

meadows were green when we arrived in June, but by the time we left

in July there were wildflowers of all colors scattered about.  The

elevation in this part of the world hovers between 8,500 and 9,000

feet, making the warm summer season very short.  When we first arrived the sun was abundant and the air was warm.

By the time we left the summer monsoons were in full swing, bringing

thick, black storm clouds every afternoon.  You could almost set your

clock by the 2:00 thunderstorms.  We camped in a little forest glade

that was pure heaven.  Our only neighbors were a jackrabbit and a

deer, both of which made several appearances, and a gorgeous male

western tanager who appeared near the end of our stay.  Our little

clearing was lined with aspen that quivered whenever the wind blew.

Our first evening in our little paradise we watched the sun set while

listening to John Denver sing about nature.  The warblers chimed in and

the aspen seemed to laugh and

dance in the orange glow of the

setting sun.  It was magic.

Our first trip to the Rim itself took us

on the farthest reaching road,

passing Vista Encantada and taking

us down to Angel's Window and

Cape Royal.  Vista Encantada was

bursting with wildflowers.  Yellows,

oranges and even the bright pink of a prickly pear cactus flower

enhanced the rust reds of the canyon.  The North Rim is not heavily

visited, and we were the only people at this lookout, gazing at the jaw-

dropping vistas while clicking away on the cameras.

Cape Royal, a massive lookout area, lies at the end of this road.

There is a charming paved walking trail through the scrub brush and

woods that leads out to Angel's Window as well as Cape Royal.  We

couldn't believe that we were the only ones on the trail.  Angel's

Window gives you a glimpse of the Colorado River if you peak

through, but once you climb onto the top of this arch formation you

get an unobstructed view.

As we walked we were overcome with the sweetest fragrance.  A

trailside plaque told us that the Cliff Rose was responsible for this

heady aroma.  We breathed deeply and walked slowly.  We were

here at the perfect time of

year.

Returning towards the

buggy, we stopped at some

of the viewpoints we had

skipped on our way out.

Walhalla Lookout is the

gathering place for a daily

ranger talk about the

ancients who lived in this

region, growing crops on a plateau 5,000 feet below at the Colorado River in the winter and moving up to the Rim in the summer.

There were some Indian ruins from 800 years ago, including a granary where they stored seeds for future planting.  From where

we stood we could easily see Mt. Humphreys in the San Francisco Peaks back in Flagstaff.  A 200 mile drive by car, the mountain

was just 50 miles away as the condor flies.  I watched the clouds gathering over Mt. Humphreys as the afternoon monsoons began

to build, and suddenly I understood why the Indians have always viewed the mountain as sacred.  From that hot, dry plateau way

down on the Colorado River, it would be only natural to believe that the mountain held a mystical power to create clouds and rain.

Those clouds and their life-giving moisture drifted over the canyon

and a light rain began to fall.

Another morning we walked the Transept Trail from the campground

to the North Rim Lodge.  This dirt path hugs the rim and occasionally

peaks out at a view that grows broader and broader as you approach

the Lodge.

The Lodge was built in 1928 and reflects the

elegance and simplicity of that earlier time.  It is a

stone and timber structure with enormous windows

overlooking the stunning view.  In the early days

visitors were greeted by singing staff members, and

the first view they got of the canyon was through

the immense windows that drew them across the

wide lobby floor.  Those windows are equally

alluring today, and comfy leather sofas fill the

room.

A beautiful dining room also

has towering windows that

look out at Canyon views,

and it is impossible not to

feel a tie to the past when

seated beneath these

chandeliers.

The Lodge also has a

sunporch with open-air

seating in front of the

spectacular view.  What a

place to enjoy a latte, soak in

the view, and maybe even

read the paper.

From the Lodge we wandered out on the paved Bright Angel Point

trail.  This is a pretty walk that takes you to the very end of the

peninsula that the North Rim Village is built on.

We clambered up onto the towering rocks to check out the many

views.  At the end you can see the widest part of the Canyon laid out

before you, stretching 21 miles to the South Rim.  We were able to

make out the tower at Desert View but couldn't see the other buildings

on the South Rim.  The immensity, colors and shapes were a feast for

the eyes.

We felt very blessed

to be able to stay in

the area for three

weeks.  After each

visit to the Rim we

would spend a day or

two back at the trailer

looking at our photos,

absorbing the

experience.  There is

a lot to see in the

Kaibab National

Forest as well, and

we did a lot of cycling

and hiking, checking out

the maze of dirt roads in

the area.

As we stayed more and

more flowers began to bloom

and on one hike we found

ourselves in a lush bed of

lupines.  There was a variety

of shapes and hues, and we

came back to this area

several times to enjoy the

rich colors.  A little further

down this road we found bunches of

yellow flowers that grew in clumps, like

nature's perfect little bouquets.

Mark noticed these little black butterflies

zipping around us periodically, and one

finally stopped long enough for him to

get its picture.

We drove out to Point Imperial

and hiked a portion of the Ken

Patrick trail to the south.  From

that viewpoint you can see the

Little Colorado River in the

distance.  It is a sheer canyon

that looks like a crack in the flat

landscape.  It almost looks like a

child took a stick and dragged it

across the sand in jagged motions,

leaving a deep trench in its wake.

Point Imperial is not hard to miss.

As we walked along the trail we saw

it shrinking in the distance behind

us.  There were many wonderful old

trees and tiny yellow and red

flowers along the route.  We felt so

grateful to be alive to be able

to experience these wonders.

It was hard to leave our little paradise in the

woods at the Grand Canyon, but the monsoons

turned nasty and we found ourselves in

sweatshirts and long pants for several days in a

row.  We even got hailed on twice -- pea-sized

hail that piled up on the ground for an hour

before melting.  We hadn't seen everything at the

North Rim, but we always leave a few discoveries

for future visits.  We wanted to head a little

further north towards Kanab and Bryce Canyon

in Utah.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Why Do It? – Why We Left Home to Live in an RV!

Why leave the security of hearth and home and run away in an RV full-time?  We followed our hearts and our dreams to a live full-time RVing lifestyle. The Luvnest is our ticket to freedom, traveling fulltime by RV Fulltiming in our RV means no more fences holding us in We are soaring free in our full-time traveling lifestyle Stunning views are a regular part of the RVing lifestyle. Follow your dreams and start living full-time in your RV! Gorgeous sunsets are a regular sight when living the fulltime RV lifestyle We see gorgeous sunsets all the time in this fulltime RV lifestyle Living fulltime in our RV means having the chance to ponder the more important things in life. Living fulltime in our RV means we have time to stop and smell the flowers Fulltiming in our RV means we have the time to stop and smell the flowers.

Why Do It ?

Why on earth would we give up the security of hearth and home, get rid of all

our stuff, and run away on a traveling adventure?

To go places.

To see new things.

To be together.

To be free.

At 47 and 53, we had reached a point in our lives where certain chapters had

closed, and a new chapter needed to be opened.  We had each left the

corporate world fairly recently and were doing a lot of soul searching as we

considered different possible lifestyles.  We each worked part-time.  We had

cut our expenses way back and learned to live very frugally.  Mark operated

a boutique bicycle shop from our home, and I was a personal trainer at a

small studio.  The arrival of two adorable grandkids and the departure of Mark's son for the Navy planted us in a new position in the

circle of life.  As we contemplated this new phase of life, many memories bubbled up from our pasts.  At the same time, we

watched our parents settling into their late 70's, and realized that in a few short years we would be there ourselves.

Looking back on my life, my most thrilling memories were my childhood summers on the north shore of Massachusetts, travels

through Europe at age twenty-three, a few months in Australia at thirty-one, and the four years I lived on a sailboat in Boston

Harbor in my late thirties.  As one sailor wrote after completing a six-year sail around the world:  "Those memories are in

technicolor.  The rest of my life is in black and white."  His words rang true for me.  Mark's experience is much the same.  He feels

about the woods the way I feel about the sea, and he spent many happy childhood hours in the forest.  Whenever he is in the

woods he comes alive.  He took a motorcycle trip with a friend when he was twenty, going from Detroit through the Upper

Peninsula of Michigan, out west through the Canadian Rockies to Vancouver Island, down the Pacific coast to Tijuana, Mexico and

back to Detroit.  It was five weeks of his life that I heard about many many times.  There were lots of places along that route he

wanted to show me, and I had seen very little of that whole part of the country.  As we kept discussing those happy memories from

years ago, we kept wondering: what was it about those few weeks and months of our lives that made them stand out with such

vivid brilliance?  How was it that whole decades of our lives seemed to merge into indistinguishable years spent working in cubicles,

commuting in traffic and submitting timesheets?  What, exactly, made those other times so special?

Part of it was the excitement of seeing new places and experiencing new things.  Part of it was

meeting new people that weren't from our small circle of friends and family.  Part of it was the

adventures that we stumbled upon.  But those were just the icing on the cake.  As we thought

about and talked about the exhilaration of those memories, it became clear to both of us that the

real joy of those times was the total independence we had, the utter freedom we felt.  There was

nothing in this world quite as satisfying as living without a schedule.

Life in our culture today doesn't allow much freedom.  Too often the focus of our lives seems to be the passage of money through

our fingers.  We try very hard to cup our hands so we don't lose too much, and some have better luck at this than others.  We build

our lives by acquiring things and stashing them around us.  Some people have a huge stash that towers over them and their

friends.  Some don't have a stash at all.  Almost everyone, however, is frantically busy.  Every minute of every day is committed.

Spontaneity is a lost art.  There is no time to think.  No time to be.

The only way to get some time to yourself is to leave your life -- take a vacation, or even a

long weekend.  But too often a shadow hangs over the whole experience.  I left on a Saturday

for a 9-day Caribbean sailing vacation once.  I remember the incredible sadness I felt on the

following Thursday.  I had just started to get into the rhythm of the tropics -- and I was leaving

in three days.

As a child I was blessed to live on a beach in the summertime.  My mom would open the door

in the morning to let me out -- like a cat -- and tell me:  "Don't come in unless it's raining."  I

don't remember any rainy days!  It must have rained.  Massachusetts gets a lot of rain in the

summer.  In fact, I remember distinctly that as soon as I started working full-time as an adult,

it rained all weekend every weekend between Memorial Day and Labor Day.  But during those precious years on the beach it never

rained.  My friend and I played all day long, building things in the sand, splashing in the water until our lips turned blue, and lying on

the hot granite boulders we lovingly called "hot rocks."  The tide gave our days their shape and form.  At high tide there was no

beach, just massive boulders.  As the ocean rolled outwards, a fresh palette of sand laid before us with endless wonders waiting in

the tide pools.  Our rumbling stomachs marked the passage of time.  Lunch drew us home when the fire station whistle blew at

noon, and we went in for dinner when we grew cold from the lengthening shadows on the beach.

Those were days of pure freedom.  I never knew when I woke up in the morning what I would do that day.  But every

day was delicious and fun.  The important things in those days were very tactile:  the warmth of the sun drying the

salt water off my cheeks while hot trickles of water dripped down the rocks I laid on; the sound of the kids' voices on

the more distant beaches, a kind of dim, high-pitched roar; the taste of the salt water on my fingers.  We would

watch the tiny red bugs, no bigger than a grain of sand, that crawled over the rocks, creeping in and out of the

granite crevices.  We would lie on those rocks for hours, feeling the sun slip across our bodies as it moved across

the sky.  We didn't do anything useful.  We didn't do anything productive.  But we were infinitely happy.

I found that kind of open-ended freedom just twice again in my life: when I went to Europe for three months and

when I went to Australia for three months.  During my travels I woke up not knowing what I would do that day, and I

went to bed savoring the memory of whatever had come my way.  Those months of travel were all about freedom.  There was an

overarching structure that held the days together and propelled me from one locale to the next; I planned my course as I heard

about interesting places to visit, and I followed the seasons along north-south routes.  However, my days were unscheduled.  If I

liked a place and wanted to stay an extra few days, I did.  If I looked out the window and didn't like what I saw, I kept going.

Now, in the middle of middle-age, I found myself yearning for that kind of freedom once again.  I had always longed for it, but it

wasn't possible.  I was busy building a stash of stuff around me.  It was what adults in our

culture do.  But now I looked at my stash -- a very small one -- and I realized that it was all

replaceable.  I could buy any of it again.  Very little was unique.  Just my photo albums and a

few mementos.  The rest was meaningless, manufactured and aging.

Mark and I discussed possible scenarios for our lives at great length.  We made up lists of

adventures we wanted to have, researched the logistics online, subscribed to magazines and

talked endlessly.  I found logs of people out adventuring, both online and at the library.  It was

amazing how many people were living really exciting lives, full of travel and independence.

They all shared some common themes.  They found a mode of transportation and housing that they liked and could afford; they

painted the plans for future travels in broad brush strokes with bright colors; and they left the details to be discovered as they went

along.  Some traveled by bicycle, some by sailboat, and some by RV.

These intrepid souls shared something even more fundamental in their new chosen lifestyles: they had given up

their stash of stuff.

We outlined all kinds of adventures we wanted to have.  We wanted to ride our bikes along the Mediterranean

coast from Italy through France to Spain.  We wanted to take our pop-up tent trailer on a tour of the western states

and National Parks.  We wanted to take our bikes from the northern tip of the North Island of New Zealand to the

southern tip of the South Island.  We wanted to spend a few years sailing up and down the Caribbean island chain.

We wanted to sail the great circle route of the Pacific Ocean.

But each of those journeys would take many months, at the very least.  What would happen to our stash of stuff

while we were gone?  The more we got excited about embarking on a new life filled with travel and independence,

the more it seemed in conflict with our stuff.  We were looking for something intangible: a life of freedom.  Our stash of stuff, small

as it was, was tying us down.

As we sat in our little garden that we had lovingly transformed from a barren gravel lot to a

lush flowering arbor, we longed to get away.  I wanted to wake up when my body decided it

was time.  I wanted to read when an easy chair and a good book beckoned.  I wanted what

I had wished for in my journal twenty years ago, "mornings filled with quiet cups of coffee."

I didn't want to wake up to an alarm clock.  I didn't want to answer a phone.  I didn't want to

drive in rush hour traffic.  But I knew that even if I eliminated the alarm clock, the phone and

the traffic, as long as I lived in a community surrounded by people engaged in today's

frantic lifestyle, I would feel their pressure.  True freedom lay out there somewhere, on the

road, away from the push and pull of modern life.

As I read, and thought, and stared at my stuff around me, I slowly realized a simple truth.  The amount of freedom in my life was

inversely proportional to the amount of stuff I had.

My friends who left their home on their bicycles in 2002--and were still out on the road today--unquestionably lived the most freely.

All their worldly possessions fit into the panniers on their bikes.  To date, they have ridden from Arizona through Central America to

the bottom of South America, through China, around Australia and New Zealand.  After six years on the road they are just getting

started.  They anticipate traveling the world by bike for twenty years or longer.

The sailors I have followed in their wanderings around the world are also very free, though not quite as free as the

cyclists because they have a boat and a dinghy to care for.  The most unique might be Lin and Larry Pardee who

have spent the past forty years in a 37' sailboat with no engine.  They have visited over 80 countries.  Living without

an engine gives them more space in a small boat and requires no maintenance.

RV travel offers incredible freedom as well.  Unable to cross oceans easily, RVs are essentially restricted to one

continent or another.  But the basic elements of living without a schedule, having all your possessions within arm's

reach, and wandering from place to place on a whim, are the same.

I have always been intrigued by people who live independently.  I was a teenager during the homesteading movement of the

1970's, and the ideas of subsistence farming and living off the land or the sea have always been deeply appealing to me.  I was

raised in the city and always lived near cities.  I became an engineer and worked in high tech for twenty years.  Those simpler

lifestyles attracted me, but I had never made the opportunity to live that way.  I was an armchair homesteader with dreams of a

small cottage by the sea, or a cabin in the woods, or a sailboat bobbing at anchor in the tropics.  Yet in my current life I had none of

those.

At the same time we felt very restless.  Our travels around Arizona, Colorado, New Mexico and California with the popup had

whetted our appetites.  Whether we took a 12 hour drive to some faraway place for a week-long vacation or dashed 30 minutes to

the campground at the edge of town for a weekend, we always had an adventure and we never wanted to come home.  In our first

two years with the popup we spent 157 nights in it.  And we had barely scratched the surface of the southwest.

Our dream slowly and gradually took shape.  We wanted to be on the move, we wanted to

live simply, and we didn't want to be tied to a schedule.  These little desires burned in our

souls, just a small flame at first, and then a roaring fire.  We bought digital cameras with the

idea that we would be taking photographs as we traveled.  We bought a laptop so we could

communicate with friends and send those pictures to them.  We tossed around ideas of

buying a boat, but couldn't decide which coast to start on and couldn't come up with a good

name for it.  That seemed like an omen, as the popup had taken the name "Luvnest" so

easily.  We toyed with the idea of taking the popup on a summertime jaunt and coming home

in the winter to deal with our stuff.  That darned stuff.  It was a real nuisance.  Cars, furniture,

house, bikes, rental house.  It would take money to maintain it all while we were gone -- and

for what?

Suddenly at the end of April, 2007, Mark put his foot down.  He is a very mild mannered person, and is not one to force his opinion

on anyone.  "I'm tired of scenario building!"  He said.  "I'm putting a sign in the yard tomorrow."  I came home from work to find two

signs in the yard -- "Yard Sale" and "For Sale By Owner."  At 6:00 the next morning the garage door flew open and garage salers

from all over town poured in.  By the end of the weekend we had sold the car, the popup, half our stuff, the house was in escrow,

and we had put a deposit on a trailer -- sight unseen -- in Dallas, 1,000 miles away.  Twenty days later we had sold or given away

just about everything we owned, put the remaining things in a shed in our friends' yard, and found tenants for the house after it fell

out of escrow.  We drove to Dallas with everything we would need in our new lives packed into the bed of our pickup.

Since then we have lived our dream.  Every day is an adventure.  I never know what any

day will bring when I wake up.  Some days it's a beautiful new place; some days it's an

interesting new person; some days we stay in bed until noon talking about our childhoods.

I truly feel like a child again.  Sometimes I lie back and watch the clouds.  We take endless

photographs of flowers and sunsets.  Mark bakes wonderful things in the oven.  I haven't

answered a phone since we left in May, 2007.  Every day, at least once a day, one or the

other of us spontaneously blurts out, "what a great life!"  We live largely on public lands,

boondocking in secluded places away from the fray.  Our solar panels provide all the

electricity we could ever need, and we get water in our jerry jugs whenever we find a spigot

in town.

I haven't missed my stash of stuff for one minute.  Ironically, we have photographs of all our stuff because we sold most of it on

Craigslist.  Sometimes I bump into those photos and I feel as if I still own it all.  It's at home, of course, in the house we live in,

right?  This is just an extended vacation, a very wonderful and very long one, isn't it?  And since I still feel like all my stuff is back

there in my old house, what difference does it make that it isn't really?  Afterall, memories and dreams live and flourish in the same

place -- the imagination.

Our story is hardly unique.  Lots of people are out adventuring.  Most are propelled by

something profound in their lives.  Our motivation was a deep undercurrent of desire that

had flowed in our souls since childhood.  And we wanted to start before time ran out.  It

was hardly a financially prudent move.  Most of our friends are building up significantly

larger retirements and will enjoy far more security in old age.  But I fear that for each year

a dream is postponed, the risk of it never happening jumps exponentially.  We have met

too many people who wanted to go out traveling but waited too long and either traveled

for just a year or two or never made it out at all.  On the opposite side is a couple we met

who started their RV travels because his stressful job had damaged his heart so badly

the doctor gave him just one year to live.  She worried about becoming a widow on the

road, but the doctor said, "either you can stay home and wring your hands while you watch him die, or you can get out there

together and live your dream as long as he lasts."  That was twelve years ago, and he is far healthier today than when they started.

Perhaps the hardest thing is figuring out exactly what your dream is.  Unless it is far more appealing than whatever your life holds

now, why change?  Whenever we drive by beautiful homes in beautiful settings, I wonder if I ever could have left such a place if it

were mine.  Possibly not.  Most people we meet on the road are traveling part-time, three to nine months a year.  In each case they

say that they love their homes too much to give them up for fulltime RV travel.  If we had been able to have our dream home and

have dreamy part-time travels too, then we would probably be among their ranks.  However, without the means to pull that off, it

just took a leap of faith and a bit of soul searching to decide that it was worthwhile to give up the security and familiarity of life at

home for the unknown thrills waiting for us on the road.

Note: I wrote this after our first 14 months of full-time RV travel, in July, 2008

--Emily

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Subscribe
Never miss a post — it’s free!

More essays and musings about life on the road as our experiences and reactions to them evolved:

Below are some of our most POPULAR POSTS (also in the MENUS above)

Buddy - A Journey in Spirit - The story of an event that changed our lives forever.

ARTICLE INDEXES
  • RV Tech Tips Articles - A one page index of links to all our RV Tech Tips, RV Upgrades & RV Maintenance articles.
  • RV Lifestyle Tip Articles - An index of links to all our RV Lifestyle Tips (finances, boondocking, major repairs, work/jobs, etc.)
  • Solar Power Articles - Overview and tutorial articles for how to design and install solar power on an RV or boat
  • Product Reviews - An index of links to all of our Product Reviews
RV UPGRADES, SYSTEMS & TIPS MONEY FULL-TIME RV LIFESTYLE GEAR STORE
  • Gear Store - A list of the goodies, equipment and gear we've found useful in our RV lifestyle!
 

Our most recent posts:

More of our Latest Posts are in the MENU.   New to this site? Visit RVers Start Here to find where we keep all the good stuff. Also check out our COOL NEW GEAR STORE!! *** CLICK HERE *** to see it!

Travelers – The Folks That Inspired Us to Take Off!

Travelers That Inspired Us

This page talks about the travelers who inspired us to set off on a full-time RVing and sailing travel adventure.  If you enjoy real-

life adventure stories, have a look at some of these.  Perhaps these voyagers will inspire you to set off on a travel adventure too!

WEBSITES and BOOKS

Tim and Cindie Travis are true adventurers.  They set off on their bicycles from Prescott, Arizona, on March 30, 2002, and have

been riding around the world ever since.  In the first two years they rode through Central America to the bottom of South America.

Then they spent two years riding through China.  From there they rode through Australia and New Zealand, and today tthey are

far from finished.  They plan to travel by bike for another twenty or more years!  They have written two books while on the road,

made videos and maintain a huge website.  Their story is filled with jaw-dropping moments.  One of the most profound for me

was when they arrived in Australia after two years in rural China and stood awestruck in front of a drinking fountain at the airport.

They hadn't seen running water in two years!  Tim's book The Road That Never Ends describes in detail the process they went

through to extricate themselves from their workaday lives.  His tips for preparing financially and emotionally for a life of travel are

very helpful.  Their story is especially meaningful to me because I remember when they used to bring their dilapidated RV down

to Phoenix to join our club's group bike rides on the weekends.  They sometimes talked about their plans to ride off into the

sunset, but it sounded so far-fetched.  Who would really do that?  They did!

My favorite true-life adventure book is Tania Aebi's Maiden Voyage.  At 17, in the late 1980's, she set off from New York City to

sail around the world by herself in a 26 foot sailboat.  She finished just before her 21st birthday, making her the youngest solo

sailor to accomplish a circumnavigation, although a technicality kept her out of the Guinness Book.  Hers is a great coming-of-age

story, beautifully written by Tania and Bernadette Brennan (now Bernon).

Bernadette Bernon must have taken Tania's story to heart when she helped her to write it, because she and her husband

Douglas embarked on six years of sailing in the Caribbean and US East Coast during the early 2000's.  They wrote monthly logs

for Cruising World magazine and maintained a terrific website.  Their favorite places were the San Blas Islands of Panama and

the reefs off Belize, and you will find yourself melting into the sea and sun as they did when you read their descriptions of these

places.

An Embarrassment of Mangos by Ann Vanderhoof is another adventure story that inspired both of us.  This couple sailed their

boat from Toronto out the St. Lawrence Seaway to the Caribbean and back on a two year jaunt.  She loved the local foods, and

she starts every chapter with a recipe she learned from the people on each island.  She has excellent descriptions of their

adjustment to the pace of life in the tropics after taking a sabbatical from their thriving publishing business, and she writes

poignantly about trying to maintain that carefree spirit after they return home.  Her shock upon their return when they threw open

the door of their storage and saw the stacks of stuff they still owned -- and hadn't needed for two years at sea -- is palpable.

Below are links to these travelers' books.  I was riveted by each of these books, and the stories are a large part of what propelled

me off the couch and into the world of full-time travel.  There are two additional books in this list.  The first is by Emillio Scotto,

an amazing Argentinian who took his Goldwing motorcycle on a round-the-world journey to 285 countries over 10 years.  He left

with $300 in his pocket.  I have not read his book yet, but I saw his motorcycle and memorabilia at a terrific exhibit in Don

Laughlin's Riverside Casino's "car show" in Laughlin, Nevada.  The last book in this list (rounding out the requisite six books for

this type of display) is Tolkien's Lord of the Rings.  This is the ultimate fictional travel story, among many other things, and it

changed my life when I was 14.  Like the other tales in this list, it describes ordinary folk leaving home to journey into

extraordinary adventure.

Hunting around the web for someone doing free-spirited RV travel fulltime, I found Tioga and George, a great adventurer whose

footsteps we eventually followed.  There is a good website full of RVers' websites and blogs: RV Resources and another is:

Hitch Up and Go.

During our stay in San Diego in October, 2008, we met Stephen Mann and Kathleen Torres who took their 39' sailboat around

the world via the southern route -- south of the Capes of each continent -- planning just five stops along the way.  They did the

trip in just over 8 months, finishing by June, 2009.  For reference, a "fast" cruise around the world on a sailboat generally takes

2-3 years, and most cruisers take 4-8 years to complete a circumnavigation.  Their blog is on svtawodi.com.  We met them at

their open-boat going away party a few days before they left.

Before we left on our own travels, I wanted to learn more about the equipment and budgets that were required by travelers, and I

found the website of Gilana, a boat sailed by a South African family of four to the eastern coasts of South and North America and

to the Mediterranean and Europe.  This boat is amazingly well built and equipped for this kind of trans-oceanic travel.  The photo

of the battery bank -- ten Trojan 105 6-volt batteries -- is astonishing.  If we were to put that battery bank in our fifth wheel we'd

crush the truck!  Not quite, but it would certainly fill the entire basement compartment.  This website also discusses their budget in

detail, something I found very helpful.  I was amazed when I emailed them with a question and received a reply -- from the middle

of the Atlantic Ocean as they made one of several crossings.

Everyone wants a brand new home to travel in, whether it's a glorious yacht or a mega Class A.  However, it is not necessary.  I

enjoyed the website of the Deckers who set out from San Diego in the early 2000's in an older modest sized mass production

boat they had sailed for years on the Great Lakes.  They loved their boat so much they named it "Limerence" which refers to that

glowing state you feel when you fall in love.  They were also part of the west coast group held together by the magazine Latitude

38 which hosts an annual migration from San Diego to Cabo San Lucas, Mexico, encouraging a "class" each year of people

making their first "puddle jump" from the Americas to the South Pacific.  However, they went to the Caribbean and Meditterranean

after arriving in Cabo rather than heading west.

Maintaining your travel home, whether boat or RV, takes discipline, and I was floored by the detail of the maintenance log that

was followed by the couple aboard Heartsong.  This website is also interesting because they left home with a finite trip of a few

years in mind.  They knew they would be returning to their workaday lives, but they had a blast while they were gone.  Not

surprisingly, they found it agonizing to return home and sell the boat!

RV FORUMS

Among RV travelers I found very few websites that gave the kind of detailed budget and equipment information I was looking for.

Most of those issues are very well addressed in several online forums, however.  These forums are terrific for getting survey

answers to your questions.  Usually the question has already been posed a few times, so a search of the forum will turn up the

answers without your having to post the question yourself.  The only caveat about online forums is that you have no context for

the answers you receive.  Sometimes the answers are written by true experts, and sometimes they are mere guesses written by

others.  Also, the person writing the answer may have the same world view and travel style as you do, or they may not, and this

can skew the value of what they have to say.

My favorite RV forum is the NuWa Owners Forum, and not just because we live in a NuWa product!  This forum is monitored by

the CEO of NuWa, Mike Mitchell.  His presence is felt on every page, and this keeps the forum from deviating into personal rants.

Most of the issues discussed apply to all brands of RVs, as the component parts and appliances in all RVs are the same.  I did not

realize how important this forum is to product development at NuWa until I spent a month in Chanute, Kansas, home of NuWa

headquarters.  While I was there, I spent a lot of time on this forum between factory visits.  I was shocked as heck when I

wandered into the plant and found that all the managers I talked to had read my forum entries.  It seems that even though Mike

was out of town at the time, he monitors the forum and forwards valuable entries to the appropriate managers for their review.

Another great forum is the Arctic Fox & Nash Owners Forum.  This is not monitored by the CEO of Northwood Manufacturing,

but what I like is that most Arctic Fox (and Nash) owners do a lot of drycamping and boondocking, so many issues related to that

kind of travel are discussed.  The Airstream Owners Forum also has some good info.

Escapees has an excellent forum as well.  This forum has an area for people planning their escape into the world of fulltime RV

travel, and they organize themselves in "classes" with graduation dates in upcoming years when their dreams will come true.

The biggest forum is RV.net.  The good thing about this forum is that it is broad in scope, as it is not tied to a manufacturer or

club.  However, the downside is that it is often a place where people get sidetracked into rants.  Emotions run high on this forum,

and good factual information is often lost in the process.

GENERAL TRAVEL WEBSITES

A terrific travel website that offers articles by many writers on destinations around the world is GoNomad.com.  Another excellent

website of cycling adventures worldwide is:  CrazyGuyOnABike.com For cruising blogs, check out: SailAway.us.

For some amazing worldwide adventures, see: Everything-Everywhere.com.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sunset Crater, AZ – Looks Like it Exploded Yesterday!

J
Hithhiker II LS 34.5 RLTG weighs 13,995 lbs GVWR RV truck scale

Getting weighed

Hitchhiker fifth wheel at Bonito Campground in Flagstaff, AZ

Campsite at Bonito in Flagstaff.

Boondocking in the Cinder Hills OHV Area

Boondocking in the Cinder Hills OHV Area

Solar panel installation (Kyocera 130 watt solar panel & Mitsubishi 120 watt solar panels) on our RV, a Hitchhiker fifth wheel

Solar panel installation

hummingbirds visit our RV in the Cinder Hills Flagstaff, AZ goldfinches visit our RV in Cinder Hills OHV area Flagstaff Arizona Bicycling at Sunset Crater Flagstaff AZ

Sunset Crater erupted 800 years ago

Sunset Crater lava flow Flagstaff AZ

Smooth cinder hills alongside the road

Cinder Hills Sunset Crater lava flow Flagstaff Arizona near Bonito Campground

Cinder hills and lava flow

San Francisco peaks and Sunset Crater lava flow in Flagstaff AZ

San Francisco Peaks

Colorful cinders in the lava flow at Sunset Crater in Flagstaff AZ

Cinders are black gravel and red gravel

Bicycling - San Francisco Peaks near Bonito Campground at Sunset Crater outside Flagstaff, Arizona

San Francisco Peaks

San Francisco Peaks near Bonito Campground at Sunset Crater outside Flagstaff, Arizona Bicycling near San Francisco Peaks near Bonito Campground at Sunset Crater outside Flagstaff, Arizona Lava Flow Trail hike at Sunset Crater near Bonito Campground and San Francisco Peaks Flagstaff AZ

View from the top of the Lava Flow Trail hike

Lava Flow Trail hike at Sunset Crater near Bonito Campground and San Francisco Peaks Flagstaff AZ Vermillion Cliffs Arizona, near Lees Ferry AZ seen from our RV on the road

Vermillion Cliffs near Lees Ferry

Vermillion Cliffs AZ near Lees Ferry Arizona seen from our RV on the road Vermillion Cliffs Arizona near Lees Ferry AZ seen from our RV on the road

Neat spot for a house!

Vermillion Cliffs AZ near Lees Ferry Arizona seen from our RV on the road

Vermillion Cliffs - many colors in the rocks

Vermillion Cliffs Arizona near Lees Ferry AZ seen from our RV on the road Our RV starts the climb up to the Kaibab Plateau, Arizona

Start of the climb out of the desert up to the Kaibab Plateau

Sunset Crater National Monument, Arizona

June 4-24, 2008 - We drove from Chanute, Kansas to Flagstaff, Arizona (1,200

miles) in just 3 days.  We stopped long enough to weigh the truck and trailer at a

Flying J truck scale and found we were right at the limit.  Even though we had filled

only 1/3 of the cabinet space, our weight (with water and propane) was 13,850 lbs --

and the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) is 13,995 lbs.  No wonder the truck

noticed the load!!  This wasn't the little Lynx any longer!  We had met a lot of fifth

wheel owners whose cabinets and closets were stuffed to overflowing.  They must

run about 2,000 lbs or more over their GVWR.

As we traveled across

country the air got dryer

and the terrain got craggier.  On I-40 in Texas, 10 miles west of the

New Mexico border, there was a very distinct transition from open

plains to a desert landscape.  We had left tornado alley in the middle

of tornado season and we were glad to leave the severe storm

warnings and tornado watches behind.  However we drove straight

into a vicious headwind all the way across the country, and in New

Mexico and Arizona the winds were staggering.  We were paying far

more for gas than we ever had -- and we were getting 8.2 miles per

gallon!!

At an Arizona

visitors center

we heard

another fifth wheel driver discussing routes to Wasington with the host,

trying to find a way to get out of the horrible winds.  Not possible!  When

we arrived in Flagstaff it felt good to be among the tall pines under clear

blue skies again.  The winds eventually subsided, and we relaxed at our

favorite campground northeast of Flagstaff, Bonito Campground.  We

retired the truck for a while, sticking to our bikes as much as possible.

Flagstaff has a fantastic store for solar power related items (Northern

Arizona Wind and Sun), and just like the previous year, we used our

time in town to purchase a complete solar setup.  We upgraded to

490 watts of power (from 130) and a permanently installed pure sine

wave inverter.  We boondocked in the Cinder Hills OHV Area and

Mark took his time installing the new panels on the roof and the

charge controller and inverter in the basement.  After three days it

was done, and the system has been phenomenal ever since.

Wherever we are, it is always as if we have full electrical hookups.

The hummingbirds loved our feeder, and we

enjoyed watching them zip around.  One

morning a pair of warblers came to the feeder

for a visit.  Their beaks weren't shaped quite

right for the feeder, so they didn't stick around,

but I was thrilled to get their picture through

the window.

We took some leisurely bike rides through

Sunset Crater National Monument.  This is a beautiful area for cycling, as there is no traffic and the road is smooth and scenic.

Sunset Crater blew its top 800 years ago, filling the skies and covering the ground with cinder ash.  The cinder ash (black gravel) is

so thick that little can grow in it.  This makes the area seem as though the volcano erupted just a few years back.  The cinder hills

seem smooth from a distance, and there are places where the gravel is actually black sand.  In other spots the black gives way to

shades of red and brown, again making it seem as though this mountain were engulfed in volcanic flames sometime within my own

lifetime.  There is a region where the lava flowed, and today it is an impenetrable strip of sharp black rock.  If you look closely you

can almost see the ripples and waves as this thick angry goo washed down from the mountain.

In the distance the San Francisco peaks were still snow capped.

Standing over 12,000 feet high, the tallest of the peaks is easily visible

from the North Rim of the Grand Canyon some one hundred miles

away as the condor flies.  The Navajo and other native peoples have

long felt that the San Francisco peaks were sacred.  I had never really

understood exactly why until a few weeks later when we were camped

on the North Rim and were looking back at these peaks across the

canyon.  Every afternoon, like clockwork, the clouds would begin to

form over Mt. Humphreys.  There was no doubt that those mountains

attracted -- or were even the source -- of rain.  Looking down at the

barren plateau on the Colorado River at the bottom of the Canyon I

could understand why the ancients revered that distant mountain.  It

brought them much needed water for their crops.

We took a hike with friends up the Lava Flow Trail and

found some spectacular views of the San Francisco

peaks and the valleys surrounding the mountains.  It

was a steep but short climb up the hill and well worth

the view at the top.

When we first arrived in Flagstaff the overnight

temperatures were in the 30's and daytime highs were

in the high 60's.  After a few weeks the highs were

getting into the 90's.  Even boondocked in total shade

(we found it was a miracle that the solar panels still

fully charged the batteries everyday despite being in

full shade!), we were too hot.  It was time to move on

to somewhere cooler.

We headed to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon.  It

is a significant drive to get there.  Even though

condors and intrepid hikers

can cross the chasm in just 21

miles, it is a 200 mile trip by

car, because you have to go

way to the east, then a bunch

north, way to the west, and

then drop south to get there.

The drive takes you through

some beautiful desert

areas.  The Vemillion

Cliffs are stunning, jutting

up out of the desert floor

in vibrant shades of

orange, red, and even

turquoise.  There is little

in the way of towns on

this drive, just occasional

hamlets with perhaps a

store and cluster of

trailers.  We drove with

our eyes glued to the

beautiful scenery.

After taking the big left turn near Lees Ferry to head west, the red desert

suddenly gives way to greenery and you begin a steep and winding climb

up onto the Kaibab Plateau.  The desert floor is at about 4,000 feet

elevation and the top of the Kaibab Plateau is at about 9,000 feet.  North

Rim here we come!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Chanute, KS – Tour of NuWa / Hitchhiker RV Factory

Train engine Santa Fe City Park Chanute KS

Train engine in Santa Fe City Park

Chanute, Kansas

Santa Fe City Park Chanute Kansas

Historic bridge, Santa Fe Park, Chanute

Santa Fe City Park Chanute Kansas Santa Fe City Park Chanute Kansas

Waterfall in the park

Santa Fe City Park Chanute Kansas

Families come to the park every evening

Santa Fe City Park Chanute Kansas

Goose family: mom, dad,

5 goslings & a nanny

Santa Fe City Park Chanute Kansas World Harmony Run truck Chanute KS

The World Harmony Run RV

NuWa Industries headquarters Chanute, KS

NuWa Industries !!

NeWa fifth wheel trailers

A fifth wheel frame

Holding tank installation

Holding tanks being installed in the frame

vacuum bonded walls NuWa factory

Walls are vacuum bonded Blue Dow

styrofoam and gel-coat fiberglass --

a winning and unique combination

Walls being installed on a fifth wheel NuWa Industries

Walls being installed on a frame

Slide-out room installation NuWa fifth wheel trailer plant

Slide-out walls lined up

A slide-out being built

NuWa Industries Chanute KS

A slideout being installed on a trailer

NuWa Industries Chanute KS

Ceiling/roof trusses lined up

NuWa Industries Chanute KS

Windows lined up

NuWa Industries Chanute KS

Cabinets get assembled

Furniture ready to be installed

End of the line

Hey - we have that exact same wall trim

in our Fleetwood Prowler Lynx !!

NuWa Hitchhiker fifth wheel and Fleetwood Lynx travel trailer

Hitchhiker & Lynx side by side

NuWa Hitchhiker fifth wheel and Fleetwood Lynx travel trailer

Goodbye Little Lynx !!!

We join the other NuWa owners at the Chanute city RV park

Chanute, Kansas

May, 2008 - We had been kicking around the idea of upgrading to a fifth wheel

trailer since our winter months in Quartzsite and Yuma, Arizona.  We loved the

little Lynx and it had taken good care of us.  If we were traveling only part-time, six

to nine months a year, then there would have been no need to change.  A 27'

travel trailer is ideal for skipping around the country seeing the sights if you have a

home to return to.  However, with fulltime travel we found there were periods

where we needed to stop and simply live for a while.  We couldn't keep moving

continuously.  We had to catch our breath, absorb what we'd seen, and simply be:

watch TV, read, talk, write, maintain the rig, etc.  During the cold months, on rainy

days and during long winter nights, we always secretly wished we had just a little

more room.  So we began researching fifth wheels.

By May we had a stack of brochures three inches thick and had been in and

out of hundreds of trailers on maybe 20 different dealer lots across the

country.  We had interviewed anyone and everyone that was in a fifth wheel

to find out what they liked and didn't like about their brand.  We had

narrowed down the search to three prospective manufacturers:  NuWa

(pronounced "New Way" as in "New Way of Camping" coined circa 1965) in

Chanute, Kansas, Alpenlite (Western Recreational Vehicles) in Yakima,

Washington, and Arctic Fox (Northwood Manufacturing) in LaGrande,

Oregon.  We had seen the Arctic Fox plant the previous summer (along with

Fleetwood which has a plant 50 miles away).  When we had planned to go to

Florida we had decided to stop at NuWa in southeastern Kansas on the way

home after passing through the Ozarks.

Chanute is a small city largely supported by the NuWa manufacturing plant and

its companion plants, Young's Manufacturing (which makes trailer frames,

including some for NuWa), and HiLo Manufacturing (which makes trailer furniture

and cabinets, including some for NuWa).  When we signed in at the town's

historical center, of the fifteen people who signed in before us, fourteen were

visiting the NuWa plant and one was looking for a job.

We slipped out of

sightseeing mode as

soon as we arrived in

Chanute.  We were

there to visit the factory

and learn more about their fifth wheel trailers.  While we stayed in the city

park, a pretty park with an area for RVs, we took many afternoon and

evening jaunts around the park, on foot and by bike.  It is a lovely place

with an old train engine you can climb on, a historic bridge and a waterfall

that gushes with amazing force when it rains hard.

There was a family of

Canada geese that we

watched grow up during

our stay: two parents, five goslings

and a nanny.  The nanny was

always with the family, but she (or

he?) wasn't a Canada goose.

Other geese came and went, but

this family, including the nanny,

always stuck together.  There

were ducks at the park too, and

one pair was on eggs.

The city park is well used by the

locals and by all kinds of travelers

too.  Ninety percent of the RVs in

the park were NuWa owners

who were in town for warranty

or other service work on their

trailer.  However we saw

several traveling cyclists come

through with panniers and

tents, and at one point a

carnival came into town and

their trailers filled the park.

One night as we walked we saw some very fit people milling about, and they

turned out to be part of the World Harmony Run, a group that was running relays

around the US all summer.  There were eight runners with them in Chanute, and

they were running about 100 miles a day as a relay.

NuWa opens its doors to

visitors with a formal factory tour every morning.  We took the tour three times,

and each time there were at least 10 people on the tour.  The NuWa employees

were extremely hospitable, and Debbie in HR and Brett in Sales made us feel

right at home.  We mingled at the plant almost daily, saw familiar faces fishing in

the park in the evenings, and bumped into Ed Cox, a sales manager and the city

mayor, repeatedly, all over town.  We became more and more enamored of the

company.  It is well run and tight knit.  We visited the plant at one of the worst

possible times in their 50-year history.  With the US economy slowing and gas

prices skyrocketing, the RV industry was not happy.  While we were in town we

learned that four major high-end RV manufacturers had closed their doors:

Travel Supreme, Western RV (Alpenlite and Alpine Coach), Alpha (See Ya!), and

King of the Road.  These were all direct competitors for NuWa.  In preparation for the downturn, NuWa had consolidated two plants

into one and streamlined their workforce to carry the company forward.

We talked extensively with all the NuWa owners in the RV park.

Most would come in for just three or four days, so we ended up

becoming friendly with quite a few owners during our month in

town.  Many invited us in to see their trailers, and all talked

extensively about their experience with the trailer, their dealer and

the factory.  Everyone was in town with problems to be fixed, but

there was no pattern to the problems.  The only pattern we saw

was that people liked their trailers (many were repeat buyers), and

they seemed very happy with the service they received.

When we arrived in town we thought we might eventually order a

Discover America 333RL, and we peppered everyone who would

listen at NuWa with questions about its various options and what

modifications might be coming up in the future.  By the time we left

we had found there was a 2007 Hitchhiker II LS 34.5 RLTG sitting

in the back lot that had never gone out to a dealer.  It was one of the last 2007's built and it was in the color I liked (which had been

discontinued).  NuWa sells through dealerships exclusively, so we worked out a deal with Russ Herron at NuWa and Carl Fogleman

at H&K Camper Sales in nearby Columbus, Kansas, and suddenly we were the proud owners of a new trailer!

NUWA FIFTH WHEEL FACTORY TOUR

H&K Camper Sales is a fantastic dealership, and they allowed us to park

the two trailers side-by-side in the VFW park in Columbus for a few days while we moved things over and got organized.  The

amount of extra floor space was startling, and the new rig felt very luxurious.  It was a sad day, however, when John from H&K

towed the Lynx away.  But our smiles quickly returned when we set ourselves up in the Santa Fe city park in Chanute, right along

with all the other NuWa owners!

After testing out all the systems in the new trailer and making sure

everything worked properly, we were ready to go back out west

again.  We had been living in Tornado Alley for the peak month of

Tornado Season and had already been evacuated once to the Super

8 motel across the street.  When you're living in a trailer in Kansas

and the cops knock on your door and tell you to evacuate, you do as

you're told!!  Luckily, no tornados came through Chanute, but the day

we were evacuated, Pricher, Oklahoma, 80 miles away, was

devastated.

A man living in a 1980's vintage Holiday

Rambler travel trailer that ended up in a

million pieces was really interested in

buying the Lynx from H&K.  Hopefully he

worked out a deal and was able to move

in.  Meanwhile we wanted to get to

northern Arizona to install our solar

panels and start our summer travels.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ozarks (AR) – Pretty Scenery

Ozark Bathhouse Hot Springs Arkansas AR

Ozark Bathhouse

Hot Springs Arkansas AR

Public confederate pride

Confederate flags Arkansas AR Ozarks

Ed's Flags

confederate flag confederate pride Ozarks Arkansas AR

Private confederate pride

Scenic Route 7 Ozark Mountains Ozarks Arkansas AR

Scenic Route 7

Scenic Route 7 Ozark Mountains Ozarks Arkansas AR Scenic Route 7 Ozark Mountains Ozarks Arkansas AR

Overlook in the Ozarks

Diesel prices jump Spring 2008 making trouble for fulltime RV living

Diesel prices jump

Ozark Mountains, Arkansas

May 2-4, 2008 - After leaving the Natchez Trace we were on a

mission to get to Kansas, but we took the scenic route through

the Ozark mountains rather than the interstate to get there.  We

stopped briefly in the town of Hot Springs which is famous for its

hot baths.  Fancy bathhouses were erected along the main

drag for tourists to enjoy steaming in the hot baths.  We didn't

take a dip, but the buildings were intriguing.

We were also

intrigued to find that

the Confederate flag

was flown in many

places here as well,

including the front

courtyard of a public

building.

Ed's Flags was

doing a bang-up

business, and he

included the

Confederate flag

in his lineup.

The most

common place

to spot a

Confederate

flag was in the

front yard of a

home.

The Scenic Route 7 through the mountains is a hilly, twisty drive.  It was

a little bit of a struggle with the buggy, and Mark had to concentrate as

we wound our way up and down through the range.  We saw lots of

motorcycles and even a motorcycle rally.  This would be an ideal

place for any kind of two-wheeled vehicle.

There weren't too many lookouts with views, but we did stop at one

where we got a good view of the valley.

We weren't near any major cities, and the gas prices reflected that.

When we arrived in Florida on February 5th, 2008, diesel was $3.11

a gallon.  Now, a mere three months later, diesel in Arkansas was

$4.39.  Little did we know that by the time we got to the North Rim of

the Grand Canyon, two months after we took this photo, diesel would

be $5.34 a gallon.

We passed through several fascinating little communities where all the signs were in Spanish.  I had always thought that the border

states had the most Latino residents, but here in the heart of the Ozarks we discovered some thriving Hispanic communities.

We had been told at two visitors centers in Arkansas not to miss Eureka Springs.  It is a quaint

town, they said, with a very cute main street and lots of charm.  Unfortunately, it is not RV

friendly.  In fact, it is not tourist friendly.  We stopped at the visitors center on the edge of town to

find out where we could park so we could walk the town.  It turned out that in order to see the

town you had to pay $5 to park your RV for the day outside of town and then you had to take a

shuttle bus into town -- $9 for two people.  So in order to see this quaint, charming town we had

to shell out $14.  On top of that, the restrooms in the visitors center weren't even in their

building.  They were way around in the back behind a bunch of shops, and they were decrepit

and dirty.  So we skipped Eureka Springs.  One theme that has been repeated over and over in

our travels is that the more you pay the less you get.

From the Ozarks we scooted through Missouri and finally landed in Chanute, Kansas, a small

town tucked into the southeastern corner of the state.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Natchez Trace Parkway, MS – Echoes of History!

Natchez Trace Parkway

The Old Trace

Mount Locust "stand"

Dining room - with seating for 6

Parents' bedroom

10 kids slept here (5 in each bed?!)

Grandmother and eldest daughter slept here.

Driveway to Stanfield

Stanfield, where Andrew Jackson was married.

Rocky Springs Campground

Rocky Springs:

Population 1860 - 2,616

Population Today - 0

Bank vault

Rocky Springs Church, built 1837

Rocky Springs Graveyard

French Camp

Natchez Trace & Jim Henson Museum, Mississippi

April 29-May 2, 2008 - We left Natchez and ventured onto the Natchez

Trace Parkway, a 444 mile road that follows a primitive trail linking

Natchez, Mississippi with Nashville, Tennesse.  The Parkway is a

remarkable two lane road that is closed to commercial traffic and has a

speed limit of 50 mph.  The National Park Service oversees the Parkway

and maintains three free campgrounds along its length.  Because of the

low speed limit the traffic is non-

existent and we often drove for many

miles without seeing another vehicle.

There is a lot of history along the

Trace and at times it felt like we were

viewing layers of history.  We saw

Indian burial mounds from 4,000

years ago and travelers' "stands" or

inns from 150 years ago.

The original Trace was created by buffalo and other animals migrating north-south.  The ancient

peoples used the trail for their own migrations.  In the 1700's European traders would bring furs

and other goods down the Mississippi by boat, sell their goods in Natchez (and even sell their

boat for lumber) and then walk back to Nashville and other points north to do it again.

The Trace became a popular

place for highway robbers, as the

folks walking north from Natchez

had money in their pockets and

little protection.  In the early 1800's, seeking to bind the vast and

turbulent frontier to its northeast seat of power, President Jefferson

ordered the army to widen the trail and make it a road passable by

wagon.

As was noted by the Secretary of State at the time, "the passage of

mail from Natchez is as tedious as from Europe when westerly winds

prevail."  The Trace vastly improved communications, but by 1830 it

fell into disuse as steamboats going up and down the Mississippi

river offered easier transportation.  The Natchez Trace Parkway

weaves along the original Trace route.  At times the original Trace is

visible.  It is a mere hiking trail.  After the Trace was built into a road,

"stands" or inns popped up along the route.  These offered food and

lodging to travelers -- on a very simple scale.

We visited the Mount

Locust stand.  A family

operated this stand with

51 slaves.  In the main

house the parents slept

in one bedroom.  The

grandmother and eldest

daughter in another.

The other ten kids slept

in the remaining

bedroom.  The

mattresses were made

of corn husks and rope.

Visitors made do on the

porch.

Looking at these

cramped

accommodations it was

hard to imagine that

arriving at one of these

stands was all that

inviting.  However, after

walking or riding a horse

all day on a dirt trail

these intrepid travelers must have been accustomed to truly roughing it.

Nothing like us, with our motorized transport, smooth paved roads to drive on

and a buggy with a well stocked fridge, freezer, hot shower and 12 inch mattress.

We stopped briefly at Stanfield, the mansion where Andrew Jackson was married.

Like others we had visited, there was a long tree-lined drive up to the house, and

the house was a

pillared beauty.

At Rocky Springs Campground, one of three lovely and free

campgrounds on the Trace, we were treated to a gorgeous morning

with filtered sunlight pouring through the trees.

On the edge of this

campground is the

ghost town of Rocky

Springs.  All that

remains of this once

bustling town is the church, the graveyard and two bank vaults.  The abandoned

bank vaults reminded me of the vault we had seen in the Gulf Coast town of Bay

St. Louis, MS.  However, the once prosperous rural town of Rocky Springs wasn't

devastated by a hurricane.  Instead its death came from many sources:  bad land

management that cleared hillsides for cotton leaving

erosion scars that can be seen today, the Civil War, a

yellow fever epidemic in 1878 and a boll weevil infestation.

It was eerie to walk a small trail through the woods where

there had once been cotton plantations and 2,616 residents.

There is nothing but trees now.

Up on the hill the church is still used, but

the cemetery's stones all date from the

1800's.  How can a town vanish in just a

little over 100 years?

Port Gibson is one of the larger towns at

the southern end of the Trace.  At one

time it was considered "too beautiful to

burn," but we didn't find it particularly

inspiring.  There was an interesting mural

on the wall of one building, and a small street with a handful of

stores, some in business and some shuttered.  More intriguing were

the homes on the outskirts of town where the Confederate flag was

flying.  Some flew the flag along with the American flag, and some

flew it alone.

We took advantage of this ideal area for cycling to do a few rides along

the Trace.  With no noticeable traffic, modest rollers, and interesting

historical sites every few miles, we thoroughly enjoyed our rides.  One

day, while camped further north on the Trace at Jeff Busby

Campground, we rode our bikes down to French Camp.  This was a

bustling community in earlier days and had several pretty buildings.

Besides the recent historical sites that can be seen on Natchez

Trace, there are a lot of prehistorical sites as well.  We stopped

at several Indian ceremonial and burial mounds.  Archaeologists

have dug through these mounds and made some startling

discoveries.  At one site, when the leader of the tribe died it

seemed that all his attendants were killed and buried with him.

Often they were killed by strangulation.  Likewise, when a parent

died sometimes the rest of the family would be strangled and

buried with the parent.  As I pondered all this back at the

campground -- in the pretty setting sun -- it occurred to me that even though lots of people have concerns about individual rights in

our culture today, at least we don't do that.

After we left the Natchez Trace Parkway we headed west and

north towards Arkansas.  I was dozing when suddenly Mark

said, "Look, Kermit the Frog...!"  I woke up just in time to see a

billboard for the Jim Henson museum.  We spent a very happy

hour at this little outpost in Leland, Mississippi that is a

charming museum of Jim Henson memorabilia.  It is run as a

labor of love by a woman who raised her children watching

Sesame Street.

I remember when that television show first aired in 1969.  As a

nine-year-old its alphabet and numbers lessons were a little

juvenile, but I remember loving the gentle humor and I

watched it for many hours with my younger sister.

Mark knew the show from raising his kids watching it.  He had been a

teenager when it first aired, so he never saw the episodes I did.  It was

amusing standing around with the proprietor and realizing that all three

of us had watched it during different eras and we remembered different

things -- even different muppet characters.

This little stop in Leland rounded out a delightful visit to Mississippi.

From there it was on to the Ozarks in Arkansas.