Best Friends Animal Sanctuary
Reception Building
Avian greeters
Joey, Hyacinth Macaw
South America
Honey, Major Mitchell Cocaktoo
Australia
Seppi, Mollucan Cockatoo
native to Indonesia
Writes a column in the monthly magazine
Quetzl, Congo African Grey
Age 54 - the same as Mark!
Tika, Umbrella Cockatoo, native to Indonesia
"Angel Canyon"
The sanctuary sits on 5 stunning square miles
Rescued horses live in Horse Haven
Angel's Rest Cemetery
Cemetery plots for all the animals. No animals are
killed; most are fostered out to new homes; a lucky
few live out their days at the sanctuary.
The cat house
Siesta time
Bunny companionship
All the bunnies, dogs and cats
have indoor/outdoor living
quarters, and they come and go
at will.
Nothing like some soft green grass for your
campsite.
Martin Tyner & Thumper, a Harris Hawk
22 years old, reaches speeds of 100 mph
Igor, a Prairie Falcon
Dives for prey at 200 mph
Scout, a Golden Eagle
Can spot a yummy rabbit from 5 miles away.
Golden Eagle: 7 lbs and 7,000 feathers
Can reach altitudes of 35,000 feet
and hurtle towards earth at 145 mph
Each raptor got many hugs during the seminar.
A different golden eagle was released later that day
from an overlook in Cedar City, UT.
Utah Sanctuaries: Best Friends & Southwest Wildlife Foundation
July 15-19, 2008 - Kanab, Utah sits squarely between three of
the greatest national parks in the US, and we stopped there,
along with everyone else, for supplies, water and haircuts. We
didn't intend to stay, but as we were leaving town we saw a cute
sign that said "Best Friends Animal Sanctuary" with an arrow
pointing down a winding road that seemed to go deep into a
canyon. We couldn't resist the temptation and took that turn.
Four days later we finally emerged!!
Best Friends is a unique,
extraordinarily well-funded and
beautiful no-kill animal shelter.
It sits on 5 square miles of
exotic red rock canyon and
houses 2,000 animals. Their
mission is to find homes for all
the animals that are adoptable, while the rest are allowed to live out their days in the loving care
of an enormous staff. The grounds and landscaping alone are worth seeing, but it was the
many tours of the various animal areas that kept us in that canyon so long.
I am a bird lover, and the parrot garden is a treat. On
summer days, all the parrots are kept in outdoor enclosures under a canopy of huge shade
trees near a pretty waterfall feature. Visitors are invited to interact with the parrots, and we
spent many happy hours entertaining and being entertained by these squawking, talking,
feathered comedians. The parrots' nighttime quarters
are indoors, so twice a day during the summer months
the bird caretakers do the Parrot Parade, carrying each
bird between its indoor enclosure and its outdoor
enclosure. On the hottest summer afternoons the
caretakers walk around misting the birds with water
sprayers to help them stay cool. What a life!
An important
theme at the
sanctuary is
positive
interactions
between the
animals and
people. All the tours are free, and you can
volunteer to stick around and work with your
favorite animals for as little as a few hours or
for as long as you want to stay. There are
cabins and a tiny RV park in the canyon to
accommodate volunteers, and many return
for a week or two every year.
Seppi, a Mollucan cockatoo, likes to walk
along the underside of the
roof of his cage, hanging
upside down and talking to
you. Quetzl, a quiet
African Grey, was hatched
in 1954 but doesn't look a
day over five. Tika, an
Umbrella cockatoo, was
summering at the sanctuary
while his owner took care of
some personal challenges.
He was accustomed to a lot
of attention, so he was happy
to climb into my arms and get
some free cuddles for a while.
The canyon, officially "Kanab Canyon" but affectionately called "Angel Canyon," is a
dramatic gorge lined with towering red rock cliffs. Most sanctuary tours require a
shuttlebus ride of a few miles from the reception building out into the rest of the
property: Dogtown Heights, the Cat House, Feathered Friends and the Bunny House.
The drive along the cliff's edges is stunning, and we passed some
of the sanctuary horses who live a charmed life, grazing in peace
while gazing at multi-million dollar views.
Angel's Rest cemetery is along this road as well. Every animal that dies at the
shelter is buried here with a headstone. There are tiny plots for the little birds and
big plots for the large farm animals. Even horses, goats and cows are adopted out
to new homes, whenever possible, and the video shown hourly at the reception
building included snapshots of many happy people who had become loving owners
of goats, sheep and other farm animals.
Most of the animal
buildings are built with
wings that provide an
indoor shelter with a
doorway the animals can
pass through to reach an
outdoor shelter. At the
cat house, the outdoor areas include ladders, pillowed perches, and a
lattice-work of planks and shelving near the ceiling. Litter boxes, food
and water dishes are discreetly placed in these out-of-reach alcoves.
Looking up, all we could see was the
odd paw or tail hanging down from
the lofty hideaways. It was siesta
time, and all the cats were happily
dozing.
The bunnies have indoor/outdoor
housing as well, and since bunnies
like to cuddle, many had a stuffed
bunny to snuggle up to. Outside, one bunny
was working very hard digging a hole, while a
few others were taking a load off under little
tent-like canopies that offered cool shade in a
lush bed of soft green grass.
Dogtown was a busy barking array of buildings. Most of the
dogs from Michael Vicks' dog-fighting operation had just been
rescued, and many dogs from Katrina were still in transition
here. We heard amazing stories of animal rescues. One lady
had 200 guinea pigs living in her 10' x 10' kitchen, and another
wacko had 1,600 rabbits in her back yard. 1,000 cats were
taken from a crazy lady's home in Pahrump, Nevada, and as I
heard the tale from a caretaker I remembered reading about it in
the Pahrump newspaper when we visited eight months earlier.
All those cats, rabbits and guinea pigs had passed through Best
Friends to new owners or were still at the sanctuary hoping for
new homes.
Before an animal is adopted out, it must go on an overnight stay to ensure that it is a well-behaved
propsective pet. Visitors can volunteer for these overnight stays, without obligation, at Parry Lodge in
Kanab. If the animal flunks the test, it simply gets a little more loving at the sanctuary, as the caretakers
work to improve its manners.
August 30, 2008 - In Parowan, Utah, at the Iron
County State Fair, we attended a fantastic
demonstration and talk by Martin Tyner, founder
of Southwest Wildlife Foundation. His
sanctuary focuses on rehabilitating native
creatures and returning them to the wild. It was
my understanding that Rocky Mountain Power
Company has recently donated a huge, multi-million dollar parcel of land
to this sanctuary. Eventually, once money is raised for land
improvements and building construction, this foundation could become
for native wildlife what Best Friends already is for more domesticated
animals.
He had three raptors with him: a Harris Hawk, a Prairie Falcon and a
Golden Eagle. He is a Master Falconer, and although he uses each of these
particular birds for education purposes, he takes them all out hunting on a
regular basis to keep their natural instincts sharp. His job is to flush out rabbits
and other prey from the desert brush so the raptors can catch their meals. They
fly free, and they fly high, happy to have a trained human to take the guesswork
out of finding dinner.
He told us of the highly aggressive nature of the Prairie Falcon, a slim bird that
screamed periodically throughout his talk. A few years back he had rescued and
rehabilitated a particularly aggressive female that had deserved her nickname
"Horrible." He released her into the desert near Cedar City, and she became a
great mom and has raised several clutches of young since then. But she's oh-
so-smart. She recognizes his truck from their many hunting outings together
when she was in his care. Now, when he brings other raptors into the desert to
hunt, she goes out of her way to tease and harrass him. One time, as he stood
with his arm outstretched waiting for his raptor to return to him, she dived
at him from the other direction, knocking him to the ground six feet away!
At the moment of impact, he suddenly understood exactly the kind of
blood-draining terror that rabbits feel when a Prairie Falcon singles them
out for a lunch date.
He invited everyone at the talk to come out to the highest ridge in Cedar
City later that afternoon to witness his release of a Golden Eagle back
into the wild. We didn't attend, but he said that whenever he releases a
bird he welcomes spectators, so hopefully we will watch a release
another time. He told us that the local Paiute Indians have a special
relationship with Golden Eagles. They believe that if you say a prayer
over an eagle feather, the prayer will
be carried directly to God. The Golden
Eagle being released that afternoon
was going to carry prayers for more
than 4,000 local cancer victims, the "down winders" in southern Utah who contracted cancer as a
direct result of the Cold War era nuclear testing carried out next door in Nevada.
Unrelated to these two wonderful animal sanctuaries in Utah, I recently discovered that Bird
Lovers Only Rescue in Dyer, Indiana has a very funny movie clip of a lesser sulphur crested
cockatoo dancing to the beat of the Backstreet Boys here. It puts a smile on my face every time I
watch it.
We spent the summer of 2008 bee-bopping around souther Utah, and one of the most eye-
popping stops was at the majestic Bryce Canyon National Park.
2007 Fleetwood Prowler Lynx 27′ Travel Trailer
This layout is great for two people but is limited for
entertaining.
The sofa and dinette are in a big slide
The "jackknife" sofa easily folds out into a double bed.
The dinette also folds down into a child-size bed.
The TV can be turned to face the bed or the sofa. There
is a cigarette lighter on the wall that we used for our
inverter so we could watch TV and DVDs while
drycamping.
This little kitchen produced many great meals.
Lynx Floorplan
Mark installs the solar panel on the roof of the trailer.
This gives us all the electricity we need without having
to hook up.
Getting psyched to start drilling holes in the roof. Mark
was naturally quite worried about this part of the
installation.
Westport-Union State Park Campground in California
about 150 miles north of San Francisco was a nice
place to do this installation.
Finished product, situated between a roof hatch and the
folded down TV antenna.
2007 Fleetwood Prowler Lynx 270FQS
We purchased our Fleetwood Lynx travel trailer as a fulltime RV,
and we lived in it from May, 2007 to May, 2008. We bought it with
the idea of "Go cheap, go small, go now." We wanted to use our
existing truck ('04 Toyota Tundra), and this trailer was the largest
size that our truck could handle (theoretically). We wanted a travel
trailer so we could have a cap on the truck and keep our bikes out
of the elements. What appealed to us about the Lynx was its very
spacious interior for its length. It had an open and airy feeling
inside, and had a lot of storage space. It was the ideal introduction
to larger sized RVs.
The 2007 Fleetwood Prowler Lynx 270FQS is a 29'
travel trailer from end to end, including the hitch, and
is 27' x 8' inside with a 3' x 14' slideout, providing 240
square feet of living space. It weighs 5,500 lbs dry
and has a GVWR of 7,300 lbs. It was billed as "half-
ton towable" but we had trouble towing it through the
mountains with our 2004 4.7 liter Toyota Tundra. We
towed it for about 4,000 miles with that truck and
then replaced the truck with a Dodge Ram 3500
diesel. The trailer holds 40 gallons of fresh water, 40
gallons of grey and 40 gallons of black. It has a
15,000 BTU air conditioner and 35,000 BTU furnace.
There is a single slide that is 3' x 14' which contains the dinette and
sofa. The queen bed on this model was a short queen (74.5" x 60"),
but Mark modified it to be a full quuen (80"x60"). The bed lifts up to
a huge storage area underneath that can be accessed by hatch
doors on both sides of the trailer. It has a 6 cubic foot refrigerator,
kitchen sink, range, microwave and pantry. The bathroom has a
shower, toilet and sink.
We used an Equalizer hitch with a 12,000 lb rating. The hitch broke
twice. Fortunately we were not hurt either time. The first time the
welds cracked all around the hitch head. The second time one of the
two bolts holding the hitch together sheered off when we came down
a driveway leaving a bank parking lot. Equalizer was very good and
replaced the hitch head when the welds broke. We replaced the hitch
bolts with #8 rather than #5 bolts (only a few bucks) just a few miles
from where we noticed the one had sheered off. We got 9-10 mpg
while towing with the Tundra and 11-12 mpg while towing with the Dodge.
This trailer was an ideal starter for fulltime RVing. In it we learned about
solar power, inverters and boondocking, and it taught us about the things
that were vital and the things that were unimportant in a fulltime rig. In the
end we realized the Tundra was not strong enough to tow the Lynx and we
upgraded to a long bed, single rear wheel Dodge Ram 3500 one ton. It was
more truck than the Lynx needed, but we purchased it knowing that one day
we might get a fifth wheel.
By starting with the little Lynx we got on the road sooner rather than later,
and we had time to research alternative big rigs at leisure. As we traveled
we quizzed everyone we met in a larger trailer to find out what they liked
and didn't like about it.
We visited dealerships in towns from Oregon to Florida and slowly educated
ourselves about the brands, makes and models of the larger rigs.
There is no way that we could have done that kind of research when
we were working. We finally decided the Lynx was too small during
the long cold winter nights, and being a lightly built "half-ton towable"
trailer, it was a little fragile for the long term. We also discovered that
it was very awkward to get into the storage space in the back of the
truck and we decided the bikes didn't really have to be stored out of
the elements.
Our solar setup on this rig was one Kyocera 130 watt solar panel
mounted permanently to the roof (not able to be tilted towards the
sun), and a Morningstar Sunsaver charge controller connected initially
to two 12 volt Nautilus Group 24 batteries. We upgraded the batteries
to two 6 volt Energizer batteries from Sam's Club after six months.
The first pair of batteries had 140 amp-hours of capacity and the
second pair had 220 amp-hours of capacity. The solar charging
setup provided about 25-50 amp-hours of battery charging capacity
per day, which meant that we could use about that much battery
power in the trailer each day without running the batteries down.
We had an 800 watt inverter connected directly to the batteries and we
ran a power strip style extension cord from its AC receptacle through
the storage area under the bed and into the trailer. We had to go
outside to open the storage hatch to turn on this inverter, so we used it
only when we wanted to run the vacuum cleaner (which draws 300-400
watts).
Inside the trailer there was a cigarette-lighter style DC connector for
the antenna boost system on the wall next to the TV shelf. We kept a
tiny Radio Shack 150 watt inverter on the shelf and turned it on
whenever we wanted to charge the computer, the razor, the camera
batteries or the toothbrush, or whenever we wanted to watch TV or
DVDs. This little inverter's fan quit once, but Mark lubed it up with
WD-40 and it ran daily for 3-6 hours each day for the year that we
lived in this trailer. It is amazing that a tiny $60 gadget could give us the ability to run all the AC appliances that we wanted to run
(except the vacuum). We had never used a microwave much in our house, so we didn't bother getting an inverter large enough
to support the microwave (950 watts). So we used the microwave as a breadbox.
We drycamped 83% of the time that first year -- 305 nights. The solar
setup was more than adequate for the entire year except for the cold
winter months, December - February. Until that time we never paid
much attention to our electrical use. The four LEDs that showed the
status of the batteries generally had all four LEDs lit whenever we
checket it. During the winter months the days were short, so the
panel did not have much time to get its charging done; the sun rode
low in the sky, so the panel did not sit at a great angle to the sun; and
the nights were long, so we sat around for hours while it was dark
outside, running the lights and the battery-draining furnace. To
compensate, we used oil lamps for light at night and we wore a lot of
layers. This is okay for a "roughing it" vacation, but it wore on our
spirits after a while. It was clear by the end of the winter that we
needed more solar and battery capacity, a non-battery-draining
heating system, and more seating options in the trailer!
In the end it was hard to let the little Lynx go. John and Carl at the dealership where we traded it in were very patient as we
continually sang its praises and wondered aloud whether the new huge fifth wheel would measure up. The Lynx had everything
we needed, and if we had been traveling just 6-9 months a year we never would have given it up. However, when your only
home is your trailer, little things like comfortable furniture, space to lie down on the floor and stretch, and general ruggedness
become important. I'm not 100% sure, but I think the fellow that bought the Lynx from the dealership was a man who had just lost
his home -- a 1980's vintage Holiday Rambler travel trailer -- to a tornado that had flattened his town of Pricher Oklahoma. If that
is the case, then I know the Lynx is very much appreciated by its new owner.
Bryce Canyon, UT – Fairyland of Pink Turrets
Inspiration Point overlooking Bryce Ampitheater
Bryce Canyon Point
Smiles everywhere
Natural symmetry
The regularity and precision of
these formations can be dizzying.
Trees cling to the rim
Bryce Ampitheater
Beginning of Queen's Garden hike
The spires give way to a smooth, orange and red
moonscape
Trees from another planet
End of the trail -- at Queen's
Garden
Nature's Wall Street
The top of the Wall Street switch backs
Bryce Lodge has many cute cabins for guests
The Peek-a-boo hike defies nature's laws and seems
to ascend for the entire loop.
Serenity
Spires and spikey trees surrounded
us
Peek-a-boo
At times it seemed as though we were wandering
among towering chess pieces.
A promontory hangs into the canyon for an awe
inspiring view. A good place to take a breather!
Little tunnels and hobbit doorways invite the hiker to
vast views on the other side.
Bryce Canyon National Park, Utah
July 20-August 20, 2008 - We had
arrived in the lower elevations of
Kanab, UT and visited Best
during a peak week of monsoon
activity. Monsoons are a
southwest phenomenon that give
the desert's much needed
moisture and relief from the heat
in mid-summer. I had learned
about them living in Arizona, but
had never known that they could
spread their salve as far north as
southern Utah and even over into
southern Colorado. It is magic to
watch the sky cloud over promptly
at noon every day, and there is a
lusciousness to being drenched
by brief downpours every
afternoon. These storms leave
the air crisp and clear, and they
keep the ferocious heat to a minimum. Once the monsoons abated, we
found ourselves in an oven, baking by noon, and burnt to a crisp by
evening. Full of energy at the break of day, we were lethargic sloths by
nightfall. It was time to get back to the higher elevations. We left Kanab
for Ruby's Inn, a settlement just outside of Bryce Canyon National Park at
7,500 feet.
Bryce Canyon
is a wonderland of pink and white
spires, laid out with amazing
symmetry. The open bowl of
crystalline formations carved from
the surrounding flat plains
resembles an ampitheater. The
man who first ranched the area
around Rubys Inn in the 1800's
had no idea the canyon was just
beyond his land. Imagine the
look on his face when, at the
suggestion of a knowledgeable
neighbor, he took his family on an
excursion to the rim! It is a place that evokes smiles
in everyone, and as we rode the shuttle bus to the
view points and walked the many trails that lead
along the edge and down into the canyon, I was
struck by how happy everyone was. Children love
this place.
We walked along the Rim, from
Bryce Point to Inspiration Point,
and watched a fantastic summer
thunderstorm creep over the
valley until we had to run for
cover ourselves. This land was
carved by a divine hand using the
tools of wind and rain to erode the
rock into fantastic formations. I
was awed by the regularity of the
carvings. Rows upon rows of
spires stand in perfect military
formation.
At the top the
trees cling to the rim for dear life,
their roots clawing at the
crumbling gravel as their
branches wave ominously in the
breeze, threatening to rip the
trees from the edge. At the
bottom the trees pierce the air
above them, the dark green
spikes contrasting with the
orange and white striped spears
of rock.
We hiked down into the canyon to
the Queen's Garden. As you descend on this hike,
the land becomes otherworldly. Between the spires,
the land forms smooth, rounded slopes and the
trees are short and twisted. The noise of the
tourists at the rim fades away behind you and the
solitude and odd surroundings seem like a
moonscape. The emotional
anchor of the ordinary looking
grassy fields and ranches that
surround Bryce Canyon
disappear from view, and you
find yourself on the moon, or
mars, looking up at the red rock
spires, repeating the mantra:
"Wow!"
The gravel path winds in and out
of the spires, abandoning one
spectacular sight as it takes a
sharp turn around a bend
towards another. We walked
through several doorways and
tunnels, emerging from each to
find ourselves staring at yet
another splendid work of art by
Nature. People linger on these
trails. Llittle groups and pairs line
themselves up for photos, posing
all over this spectacular setting.
Cameras are handed around
trustingly between strangers in
order to get everyone in each
group into the pictures. "I'll take
one for you if you'll take one for
me," is the phrase of the day,
sometimes said in broken English,
and often accompanied with gestures and sign language. Cameras are all
shapes and sizes. "Just press the button." Lots of nodding and pointing.
Everyone is grinning. None of us can wait to show these pictures to our
friends back home. All the photos turn out great.
At the very bottom we came to a plaque that showed us
Queen Victoria. This was the Queen's Garden. She is
at the tippy top of a spire. She looks very regal, and
very wee. In time she will erode away and be replaced
by other shapes. Looking around at the other hoodoo
rock formations, we made out a medieval friar and a
great horned owl to accompany the queen.
We had descended about a thousand feet and had to
climb back up again to the rim. We chose the route that
goes through Wall Street, where the red rock walls
close around you like skyscrapers but much closer. A
switchback trail takes you up until you look way down
on the tiny pine trees at the base. Then you climb
higher til the people seem mere specks. Your heart
pounds from the exertion of climbing
straight up, and when you reach the
top the view takes your breath away
yet again.
We wandered along the rim and met
a little girl holding a camera that was
as big as she was. What a smile she
had as that camera clicked away.
The Bryce Canyon Lodge is the
oldest original National Park lodge still
standing; the others at Yellowstone,
Grand Canyon and the rest all
succombed to fire at one time or
another and were rebuilt. Bryce isn't immune to
wildfires, however, and there were many "prescribed
burns" in action while we were there as the Park Service
attempted to keep the woods thinned so they wouldn't
be prone to future fires.
We spent a few days riding our bikes and hiking in the
areas away from Bryce Canyon and then returned to do
the Peek-a-boo hike. We were both surprised at how
the grins came back to our faces and the "wow" formed
on our lips again as soon as we walked up to the rim.
What a place.
We had no idea why the Peek-a-boo hike has its name,
and we descended into the canyon away from the
crowds wondering what laid
ahead.
Once again, as we walked down
into the canyon, we felt an
almost physical sensation cloak
our bodies as the immense quiet and peace of this place enveloped us.
Suddenly, we looked up at a wall of spires and saw one hole, and then
another. "So that's why it's called Peek-a-boo!" Mark said, mugging for
the camera. We walked with our heads up and our eyes on the peaks,
tripping occasionally. But you can't look down on this hike, even as you
stumble.
The trail
twisted and turned and double-backed on itself between formations. I
felt like a rat in a maze, or a child stomping around on an enormous
chessboard.
We did a lot of climbing on this hike, more than seemed physically
possible for a loop hike. Mark walked faster than I did (he didn't
bring his camera and mine kept slowing me down!), and I turned a
corner and looked up to see him happily surveying the view from
an ideal vantage point. Once I caught up to him we sat together
for a moment.
When we turned to continue on, we were facing a little doorway. As we passed through the door
to the glittering view on the other side, I felt like Dorothy as she steps out of her Kansas house
into the colorful Land of OZ.
After a few weeks at our "ranch
house" outside of Bryce Canyon,
among the cattle, ponderosa pines
and pronghorn, overlooking grazing
lands that stretched to the horizon,
we felt like it was home. Our TV got
great NBC reception, so we stayed to
watch most of the Beijing Olympics. It
was very hard to tear ourselves away,
but eventually the day came, and
once we hit the road, the excitement
of discovering new places propelled us forward and made us eager to
leave. We bumped into the sweet village of Alton and gradually made
our way over the mountains to Parowan and Cedar City.
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More info about Bryce Canyon National Park:
- Bryce Canyon National Park Official Website – National Park Service Website
- Maps of Bryce Canyon National Park – National Park Service Maps
- Location of Bryce Canyon National Park – Google Maps
- RV/Tent Campgrounds in Bryce Canyon – Dry camping for small / medium RVs inside the National Park
- Ruby’s Inn RV Park – Full hookups and Big Rig Friendly in nearby Bryce Canyon City
- Red Canyon Campground – Beautiful dry camping with 6-8 campsites big enough for our 36′ fifth wheel trailer.
More blog posts from our RV trips to Bryce Canyon
- Bryce Canyon in Winter – Snow and Lace on the Red Rock Spires! 01/25/19
- Spring in Sarasota FL + Bryce Canyon’s Night Skies – in Trailer Life 04/04/17
- Bryce Canyon – Rainbow Point – Bristlecone Pines and Sweeping Vistas 11/01/16
- Bryce Canyon National Park – “Mossy Cave” – Mystery Waterfall! 10/18/16
- Red Canyon Utah and the Bryce Canyon Bike Trail! 10/13/16
- Bryce Canyon Gone Wild – Tempests, Rainbows & Wildlife 10/09/16
- Bryce Canyon National Park – Fairyland Trail – A Beautiful Hike! 10/02/16
- Bryce Canyon – Hiking The Rim & Navajo Loop + A Tourist Time-lapse! 09/29/16
- Bryce Canyon National Park – Inspiration Point – OMG! 09/27/16
- Bryce Canyon, UT – Fairyland of Pink Turrets 08/25/08
Related posts from our RV travels:
- Our RV travels in Southwestern Utah – Bryce, Zion and Capitol Reef area
- Our RV travels in Southeastern Utah – Moab, Arches, and Canyonlands area
- Our RV travels to Sedona Arizona – Red Rock Country in AZ
- Our travels to North America’s National Parks – National Parks and World Heritage Sites in the US, Canada and Mexico
Our most recent posts:
- Buckskin Mountain State Park – Fun on the Colorado River! 01/31/26
- How to Install Starlink Gen 3 in an RV? Use the Speedmount! 08/07/25
- Escape to Paradise – Rocky Mountain Magic! 08/01/25
- Is Forest River a Good RV? Well Built? Here’s Our Experience 06/20/25
- Sunset Crater Nat’l Monument – Lava & Camels at Bonito CG! 06/06/25
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Grand Canyon’s North Rim – Its Better Half?
The road to the North Rim winds through meadows.
Monsoon season was just starting.
A little piece of heaven camping in the Kaibab
National Forest.
Western Tanager
Vista Encantada
Angel's Window
Cape Royal
Cliff Rose
Cape Royal
Cape Royal
Walhalla Lookout
The North Rim Lodge has
exceptional views.
Sofa Room at the Lodge
Lodge Dining Room
Sun Porch at the Lodge
Bright Angel Point trail
Bright Angel Point
Bright Angel Point
Hiking in the Kaibab forest
We came across a clearing overflowing with lupines.
The aspens cluster together.
Point imperial Lookout
Imperial Point
Ken Patrick Trail from Point Imperial
Grand Canyon - North Rim
June 24 - July 13, 2008 - We left Flagstaff in search of cooler weather,
and we found that and much more at the North Rim of the Grand
Canyon. The road from Jacob Lake to the North Rim is 44 miles of
graceful beauty.
After descending through dense woods, some of which were badly
burned in a wildfire in 2005, the road shakes out its curves, the tall
pines step back, and you fly along through lush meadows. These
meadows were green when we arrived in June, but by the time we left
in July there were wildflowers of all colors scattered about. The
elevation in this part of the world hovers between 8,500 and 9,000
feet, making the warm summer season very short. When we first arrived the sun was abundant and the air was warm.
By the time we left the summer monsoons were in full swing, bringing
thick, black storm clouds every afternoon. You could almost set your
clock by the 2:00 thunderstorms. We camped in a little forest glade
that was pure heaven. Our only neighbors were a jackrabbit and a
deer, both of which made several appearances, and a gorgeous male
western tanager who appeared near the end of our stay. Our little
clearing was lined with aspen that quivered whenever the wind blew.
Our first evening in our little paradise we watched the sun set while
listening to John Denver sing about nature. The warblers chimed in and
the aspen seemed to laugh and
dance in the orange glow of the
setting sun. It was magic.
Our first trip to the Rim itself took us
on the farthest reaching road,
passing Vista Encantada and taking
us down to Angel's Window and
Cape Royal. Vista Encantada was
bursting with wildflowers. Yellows,
oranges and even the bright pink of a prickly pear cactus flower
enhanced the rust reds of the canyon. The North Rim is not heavily
visited, and we were the only people at this lookout, gazing at the jaw-
dropping vistas while clicking away on the cameras.
Cape Royal, a massive lookout area, lies at the end of this road.
There is a charming paved walking trail through the scrub brush and
woods that leads out to Angel's Window as well as Cape Royal. We
couldn't believe that we were the only ones on the trail. Angel's
Window gives you a glimpse of the Colorado River if you peak
through, but once you climb onto the top of this arch formation you
get an unobstructed view.
As we walked we were overcome with the sweetest fragrance. A
trailside plaque told us that the Cliff Rose was responsible for this
heady aroma. We breathed deeply and walked slowly. We were
here at the perfect time of
year.
Returning towards the
buggy, we stopped at some
of the viewpoints we had
skipped on our way out.
Walhalla Lookout is the
gathering place for a daily
ranger talk about the
ancients who lived in this
region, growing crops on a plateau 5,000 feet below at the Colorado River in the winter and moving up to the Rim in the summer.
There were some Indian ruins from 800 years ago, including a granary where they stored seeds for future planting. From where
we stood we could easily see Mt. Humphreys in the San Francisco Peaks back in Flagstaff. A 200 mile drive by car, the mountain
was just 50 miles away as the condor flies. I watched the clouds gathering over Mt. Humphreys as the afternoon monsoons began
to build, and suddenly I understood why the Indians have always viewed the mountain as sacred. From that hot, dry plateau way
down on the Colorado River, it would be only natural to believe that the mountain held a mystical power to create clouds and rain.
Those clouds and their life-giving moisture drifted over the canyon
and a light rain began to fall.
Another morning we walked the Transept Trail from the campground
to the North Rim Lodge. This dirt path hugs the rim and occasionally
peaks out at a view that grows broader and broader as you approach
the Lodge.
The Lodge was built in 1928 and reflects the
elegance and simplicity of that earlier time. It is a
stone and timber structure with enormous windows
overlooking the stunning view. In the early days
visitors were greeted by singing staff members, and
the first view they got of the canyon was through
the immense windows that drew them across the
wide lobby floor. Those windows are equally
alluring today, and comfy leather sofas fill the
room.
A beautiful dining room also
has towering windows that
look out at Canyon views,
and it is impossible not to
feel a tie to the past when
seated beneath these
chandeliers.
The Lodge also has a
sunporch with open-air
seating in front of the
spectacular view. What a
place to enjoy a latte, soak in
the view, and maybe even
read the paper.
From the Lodge we wandered out on the paved Bright Angel Point
trail. This is a pretty walk that takes you to the very end of the
peninsula that the North Rim Village is built on.
We clambered up onto the towering rocks to check out the many
views. At the end you can see the widest part of the Canyon laid out
before you, stretching 21 miles to the South Rim. We were able to
make out the tower at Desert View but couldn't see the other buildings
on the South Rim. The immensity, colors and shapes were a feast for
the eyes.
We felt very blessed
to be able to stay in
the area for three
weeks. After each
visit to the Rim we
would spend a day or
two back at the trailer
looking at our photos,
absorbing the
experience. There is
a lot to see in the
Kaibab National
Forest as well, and
we did a lot of cycling
and hiking, checking out
the maze of dirt roads in
the area.
As we stayed more and
more flowers began to bloom
and on one hike we found
ourselves in a lush bed of
lupines. There was a variety
of shapes and hues, and we
came back to this area
several times to enjoy the
rich colors. A little further
down this road we found bunches of
yellow flowers that grew in clumps, like
nature's perfect little bouquets.
Mark noticed these little black butterflies
zipping around us periodically, and one
finally stopped long enough for him to
get its picture.
We drove out to Point Imperial
and hiked a portion of the Ken
Patrick trail to the south. From
that viewpoint you can see the
Little Colorado River in the
distance. It is a sheer canyon
that looks like a crack in the flat
landscape. It almost looks like a
child took a stick and dragged it
across the sand in jagged motions,
leaving a deep trench in its wake.
Point Imperial is not hard to miss.
As we walked along the trail we saw
it shrinking in the distance behind
us. There were many wonderful old
trees and tiny yellow and red
flowers along the route. We felt so
grateful to be alive to be able
to experience these wonders.
It was hard to leave our little paradise in the
woods at the Grand Canyon, but the monsoons
turned nasty and we found ourselves in
sweatshirts and long pants for several days in a
row. We even got hailed on twice -- pea-sized
hail that piled up on the ground for an hour
before melting. We hadn't seen everything at the
North Rim, but we always leave a few discoveries
for future visits. We wanted to head a little
further north towards Kanab and Bryce Canyon
in Utah.
Why Do It? – Why We Left Home to Live in an RV!
Why Do It ?
Why on earth would we give up the security of hearth and home, get rid of all
our stuff, and run away on a traveling adventure?
To go places.
To see new things.
To be together.
To be free.
At 47 and 53, we had reached a point in our lives where certain chapters had
closed, and a new chapter needed to be opened. We had each left the
corporate world fairly recently and were doing a lot of soul searching as we
considered different possible lifestyles. We each worked part-time. We had
cut our expenses way back and learned to live very frugally. Mark operated
a boutique bicycle shop from our home, and I was a personal trainer at a
small studio. The arrival of two adorable grandkids and the departure of Mark's son for the Navy planted us in a new position in the
circle of life. As we contemplated this new phase of life, many memories bubbled up from our pasts. At the same time, we
watched our parents settling into their late 70's, and realized that in a few short years we would be there ourselves.
Looking back on my life, my most thrilling memories were my childhood summers on the north shore of Massachusetts, travels
through Europe at age twenty-three, a few months in Australia at thirty-one, and the four years I lived on a sailboat in Boston
Harbor in my late thirties. As one sailor wrote after completing a six-year sail around the world: "Those memories are in
technicolor. The rest of my life is in black and white." His words rang true for me. Mark's experience is much the same. He feels
about the woods the way I feel about the sea, and he spent many happy childhood hours in the forest. Whenever he is in the
woods he comes alive. He took a motorcycle trip with a friend when he was twenty, going from Detroit through the Upper
Peninsula of Michigan, out west through the Canadian Rockies to Vancouver Island, down the Pacific coast to Tijuana, Mexico and
back to Detroit. It was five weeks of his life that I heard about many many times. There were lots of places along that route he
wanted to show me, and I had seen very little of that whole part of the country. As we kept discussing those happy memories from
years ago, we kept wondering: what was it about those few weeks and months of our lives that made them stand out with such
vivid brilliance? How was it that whole decades of our lives seemed to merge into indistinguishable years spent working in cubicles,
commuting in traffic and submitting timesheets? What, exactly, made those other times so special?
Part of it was the excitement of seeing new places and experiencing new things. Part of it was
meeting new people that weren't from our small circle of friends and family. Part of it was the
adventures that we stumbled upon. But those were just the icing on the cake. As we thought
about and talked about the exhilaration of those memories, it became clear to both of us that the
real joy of those times was the total independence we had, the utter freedom we felt. There was
nothing in this world quite as satisfying as living without a schedule.
Life in our culture today doesn't allow much freedom. Too often the focus of our lives seems to be the passage of money through
our fingers. We try very hard to cup our hands so we don't lose too much, and some have better luck at this than others. We build
our lives by acquiring things and stashing them around us. Some people have a huge stash that towers over them and their
friends. Some don't have a stash at all. Almost everyone, however, is frantically busy. Every minute of every day is committed.
Spontaneity is a lost art. There is no time to think. No time to be.
The only way to get some time to yourself is to leave your life -- take a vacation, or even a
long weekend. But too often a shadow hangs over the whole experience. I left on a Saturday
for a 9-day Caribbean sailing vacation once. I remember the incredible sadness I felt on the
following Thursday. I had just started to get into the rhythm of the tropics -- and I was leaving
in three days.
As a child I was blessed to live on a beach in the summertime. My mom would open the door
in the morning to let me out -- like a cat -- and tell me: "Don't come in unless it's raining." I
don't remember any rainy days! It must have rained. Massachusetts gets a lot of rain in the
summer. In fact, I remember distinctly that as soon as I started working full-time as an adult,
it rained all weekend every weekend between Memorial Day and Labor Day. But during those precious years on the beach it never
rained. My friend and I played all day long, building things in the sand, splashing in the water until our lips turned blue, and lying on
the hot granite boulders we lovingly called "hot rocks." The tide gave our days their shape and form. At high tide there was no
beach, just massive boulders. As the ocean rolled outwards, a fresh palette of sand laid before us with endless wonders waiting in
the tide pools. Our rumbling stomachs marked the passage of time. Lunch drew us home when the fire station whistle blew at
noon, and we went in for dinner when we grew cold from the lengthening shadows on the beach.
Those were days of pure freedom. I never knew when I woke up in the morning what I would do that day. But every
day was delicious and fun. The important things in those days were very tactile: the warmth of the sun drying the
salt water off my cheeks while hot trickles of water dripped down the rocks I laid on; the sound of the kids' voices on
the more distant beaches, a kind of dim, high-pitched roar; the taste of the salt water on my fingers. We would
watch the tiny red bugs, no bigger than a grain of sand, that crawled over the rocks, creeping in and out of the
granite crevices. We would lie on those rocks for hours, feeling the sun slip across our bodies as it moved across
the sky. We didn't do anything useful. We didn't do anything productive. But we were infinitely happy.
I found that kind of open-ended freedom just twice again in my life: when I went to Europe for three months and
when I went to Australia for three months. During my travels I woke up not knowing what I would do that day, and I
went to bed savoring the memory of whatever had come my way. Those months of travel were all about freedom. There was an
overarching structure that held the days together and propelled me from one locale to the next; I planned my course as I heard
about interesting places to visit, and I followed the seasons along north-south routes. However, my days were unscheduled. If I
liked a place and wanted to stay an extra few days, I did. If I looked out the window and didn't like what I saw, I kept going.
Now, in the middle of middle-age, I found myself yearning for that kind of freedom once again. I had always longed for it, but it
wasn't possible. I was busy building a stash of stuff around me. It was what adults in our
culture do. But now I looked at my stash -- a very small one -- and I realized that it was all
replaceable. I could buy any of it again. Very little was unique. Just my photo albums and a
few mementos. The rest was meaningless, manufactured and aging.
Mark and I discussed possible scenarios for our lives at great length. We made up lists of
adventures we wanted to have, researched the logistics online, subscribed to magazines and
talked endlessly. I found logs of people out adventuring, both online and at the library. It was
amazing how many people were living really exciting lives, full of travel and independence.
They all shared some common themes. They found a mode of transportation and housing that they liked and could afford; they
painted the plans for future travels in broad brush strokes with bright colors; and they left the details to be discovered as they went
along. Some traveled by bicycle, some by sailboat, and some by RV.
These intrepid souls shared something even more fundamental in their new chosen lifestyles: they had given up
their stash of stuff.
We outlined all kinds of adventures we wanted to have. We wanted to ride our bikes along the Mediterranean
coast from Italy through France to Spain. We wanted to take our pop-up tent trailer on a tour of the western states
and National Parks. We wanted to take our bikes from the northern tip of the North Island of New Zealand to the
southern tip of the South Island. We wanted to spend a few years sailing up and down the Caribbean island chain.
We wanted to sail the great circle route of the Pacific Ocean.
But each of those journeys would take many months, at the very least. What would happen to our stash of stuff
while we were gone? The more we got excited about embarking on a new life filled with travel and independence,
the more it seemed in conflict with our stuff. We were looking for something intangible: a life of freedom. Our stash of stuff, small
as it was, was tying us down.
As we sat in our little garden that we had lovingly transformed from a barren gravel lot to a
lush flowering arbor, we longed to get away. I wanted to wake up when my body decided it
was time. I wanted to read when an easy chair and a good book beckoned. I wanted what
I had wished for in my journal twenty years ago, "mornings filled with quiet cups of coffee."
I didn't want to wake up to an alarm clock. I didn't want to answer a phone. I didn't want to
drive in rush hour traffic. But I knew that even if I eliminated the alarm clock, the phone and
the traffic, as long as I lived in a community surrounded by people engaged in today's
frantic lifestyle, I would feel their pressure. True freedom lay out there somewhere, on the
road, away from the push and pull of modern life.
As I read, and thought, and stared at my stuff around me, I slowly realized a simple truth. The amount of freedom in my life was
inversely proportional to the amount of stuff I had.
My friends who left their home on their bicycles in 2002--and were still out on the road today--unquestionably lived the most freely.
All their worldly possessions fit into the panniers on their bikes. To date, they have ridden from Arizona through Central America to
the bottom of South America, through China, around Australia and New Zealand. After six years on the road they are just getting
started. They anticipate traveling the world by bike for twenty years or longer.
The sailors I have followed in their wanderings around the world are also very free, though not quite as free as the
cyclists because they have a boat and a dinghy to care for. The most unique might be Lin and Larry Pardee who
have spent the past forty years in a 37' sailboat with no engine. They have visited over 80 countries. Living without
an engine gives them more space in a small boat and requires no maintenance.
RV travel offers incredible freedom as well. Unable to cross oceans easily, RVs are essentially restricted to one
continent or another. But the basic elements of living without a schedule, having all your possessions within arm's
reach, and wandering from place to place on a whim, are the same.
I have always been intrigued by people who live independently. I was a teenager during the homesteading movement of the
1970's, and the ideas of subsistence farming and living off the land or the sea have always been deeply appealing to me. I was
raised in the city and always lived near cities. I became an engineer and worked in high tech for twenty years. Those simpler
lifestyles attracted me, but I had never made the opportunity to live that way. I was an armchair homesteader with dreams of a
small cottage by the sea, or a cabin in the woods, or a sailboat bobbing at anchor in the tropics. Yet in my current life I had none of
those.
At the same time we felt very restless. Our travels around Arizona, Colorado, New Mexico and California with the popup had
whetted our appetites. Whether we took a 12 hour drive to some faraway place for a week-long vacation or dashed 30 minutes to
the campground at the edge of town for a weekend, we always had an adventure and we never wanted to come home. In our first
two years with the popup we spent 157 nights in it. And we had barely scratched the surface of the southwest.
Our dream slowly and gradually took shape. We wanted to be on the move, we wanted to
live simply, and we didn't want to be tied to a schedule. These little desires burned in our
souls, just a small flame at first, and then a roaring fire. We bought digital cameras with the
idea that we would be taking photographs as we traveled. We bought a laptop so we could
communicate with friends and send those pictures to them. We tossed around ideas of
buying a boat, but couldn't decide which coast to start on and couldn't come up with a good
name for it. That seemed like an omen, as the popup had taken the name "Luvnest" so
easily. We toyed with the idea of taking the popup on a summertime jaunt and coming home
in the winter to deal with our stuff. That darned stuff. It was a real nuisance. Cars, furniture,
house, bikes, rental house. It would take money to maintain it all while we were gone -- and
for what?
Suddenly at the end of April, 2007, Mark put his foot down. He is a very mild mannered person, and is not one to force his opinion
on anyone. "I'm tired of scenario building!" He said. "I'm putting a sign in the yard tomorrow." I came home from work to find two
signs in the yard -- "Yard Sale" and "For Sale By Owner." At 6:00 the next morning the garage door flew open and garage salers
from all over town poured in. By the end of the weekend we had sold the car, the popup, half our stuff, the house was in escrow,
and we had put a deposit on a trailer -- sight unseen -- in Dallas, 1,000 miles away. Twenty days later we had sold or given away
just about everything we owned, put the remaining things in a shed in our friends' yard, and found tenants for the house after it fell
out of escrow. We drove to Dallas with everything we would need in our new lives packed into the bed of our pickup.
Since then we have lived our dream. Every day is an adventure. I never know what any
day will bring when I wake up. Some days it's a beautiful new place; some days it's an
interesting new person; some days we stay in bed until noon talking about our childhoods.
I truly feel like a child again. Sometimes I lie back and watch the clouds. We take endless
photographs of flowers and sunsets. Mark bakes wonderful things in the oven. I haven't
answered a phone since we left in May, 2007. Every day, at least once a day, one or the
other of us spontaneously blurts out, "what a great life!" We live largely on public lands,
boondocking in secluded places away from the fray. Our solar panels provide all the
electricity we could ever need, and we get water in our jerry jugs whenever we find a spigot
in town.
I haven't missed my stash of stuff for one minute. Ironically, we have photographs of all our stuff because we sold most of it on
Craigslist. Sometimes I bump into those photos and I feel as if I still own it all. It's at home, of course, in the house we live in,
right? This is just an extended vacation, a very wonderful and very long one, isn't it? And since I still feel like all my stuff is back
there in my old house, what difference does it make that it isn't really? Afterall, memories and dreams live and flourish in the same
place -- the imagination.
Our story is hardly unique. Lots of people are out adventuring. Most are propelled by
something profound in their lives. Our motivation was a deep undercurrent of desire that
had flowed in our souls since childhood. And we wanted to start before time ran out. It
was hardly a financially prudent move. Most of our friends are building up significantly
larger retirements and will enjoy far more security in old age. But I fear that for each year
a dream is postponed, the risk of it never happening jumps exponentially. We have met
too many people who wanted to go out traveling but waited too long and either traveled
for just a year or two or never made it out at all. On the opposite side is a couple we met
who started their RV travels because his stressful job had damaged his heart so badly
the doctor gave him just one year to live. She worried about becoming a widow on the
road, but the doctor said, "either you can stay home and wring your hands while you watch him die, or you can get out there
together and live your dream as long as he lasts." That was twelve years ago, and he is far healthier today than when they started.
Perhaps the hardest thing is figuring out exactly what your dream is. Unless it is far more appealing than whatever your life holds
now, why change? Whenever we drive by beautiful homes in beautiful settings, I wonder if I ever could have left such a place if it
were mine. Possibly not. Most people we meet on the road are traveling part-time, three to nine months a year. In each case they
say that they love their homes too much to give them up for fulltime RV travel. If we had been able to have our dream home and
have dreamy part-time travels too, then we would probably be among their ranks. However, without the means to pull that off, it
just took a leap of faith and a bit of soul searching to decide that it was worthwhile to give up the security and familiarity of life at
home for the unknown thrills waiting for us on the road.
Note: I wrote this after our first 14 months of full-time RV travel, in July, 2008
--Emily
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More essays and musings about life on the road as our experiences and reactions to them evolved:
- Why Do It? – Why We Left Home to Live in an RV! 07/21/08
- What’s It Like to RV Full-time? – A Snapshot of Pure Joy (as the banking world collapsed) 01/03/09
- Living, Loving and Perfecting “The Dream” 06/29/13
- On the Road to your Dreams, Stay the Course! 10/14/13
- What Is Your Dream? 12/31/14
- What Does It Take to Live The Dream? 01/02/16
- 9th Anniversary of Full-time Travel by RV and Sailboat – Reflections! 05/22/16
- 10 Years of Full-time RVing and Sailing!! – The Early Years… 05/24/17
- 10 Years of Life on the Road by RV and Sailboat – The 2nd Half! 05/28/17
- Kay Peterson: Full-time RV Pioneer & Escapees RV Club Co-Founder 06/13/17
- Camping World Video Shoot — RVing is for Everyone! 04/06/18
- Lessons Learned in the Full-time RV Lifestyle: Tips & Ideas! 05/25/18
- Merry Christmas and Thank You for a Great Year! 12/22/18
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Travelers – The Folks That Inspired Us to Take Off!
Travelers That Inspired Us
This page talks about the travelers who inspired us to set off on a full-time RVing and sailing travel adventure. If you enjoy real-
life adventure stories, have a look at some of these. Perhaps these voyagers will inspire you to set off on a travel adventure too!
WEBSITES and BOOKS
Tim and Cindie Travis are true adventurers. They set off on their bicycles from Prescott, Arizona, on March 30, 2002, and have
been riding around the world ever since. In the first two years they rode through Central America to the bottom of South America.
Then they spent two years riding through China. From there they rode through Australia and New Zealand, and today tthey are
far from finished. They plan to travel by bike for another twenty or more years! They have written two books while on the road,
made videos and maintain a huge website. Their story is filled with jaw-dropping moments. One of the most profound for me
was when they arrived in Australia after two years in rural China and stood awestruck in front of a drinking fountain at the airport.
They hadn't seen running water in two years! Tim's book The Road That Never Ends describes in detail the process they went
through to extricate themselves from their workaday lives. His tips for preparing financially and emotionally for a life of travel are
very helpful. Their story is especially meaningful to me because I remember when they used to bring their dilapidated RV down
to Phoenix to join our club's group bike rides on the weekends. They sometimes talked about their plans to ride off into the
sunset, but it sounded so far-fetched. Who would really do that? They did!
My favorite true-life adventure book is Tania Aebi's Maiden Voyage. At 17, in the late 1980's, she set off from New York City to
sail around the world by herself in a 26 foot sailboat. She finished just before her 21st birthday, making her the youngest solo
sailor to accomplish a circumnavigation, although a technicality kept her out of the Guinness Book. Hers is a great coming-of-age
story, beautifully written by Tania and Bernadette Brennan (now Bernon).
Bernadette Bernon must have taken Tania's story to heart when she helped her to write it, because she and her husband
Douglas embarked on six years of sailing in the Caribbean and US East Coast during the early 2000's. They wrote monthly logs
for Cruising World magazine and maintained a terrific website. Their favorite places were the San Blas Islands of Panama and
the reefs off Belize, and you will find yourself melting into the sea and sun as they did when you read their descriptions of these
places.
An Embarrassment of Mangos by Ann Vanderhoof is another adventure story that inspired both of us. This couple sailed their
boat from Toronto out the St. Lawrence Seaway to the Caribbean and back on a two year jaunt. She loved the local foods, and
she starts every chapter with a recipe she learned from the people on each island. She has excellent descriptions of their
adjustment to the pace of life in the tropics after taking a sabbatical from their thriving publishing business, and she writes
poignantly about trying to maintain that carefree spirit after they return home. Her shock upon their return when they threw open
the door of their storage and saw the stacks of stuff they still owned -- and hadn't needed for two years at sea -- is palpable.
Below are links to these travelers' books. I was riveted by each of these books, and the stories are a large part of what propelled
me off the couch and into the world of full-time travel. There are two additional books in this list. The first is by Emillio Scotto,
an amazing Argentinian who took his Goldwing motorcycle on a round-the-world journey to 285 countries over 10 years. He left
with $300 in his pocket. I have not read his book yet, but I saw his motorcycle and memorabilia at a terrific exhibit in Don
Laughlin's Riverside Casino's "car show" in Laughlin, Nevada. The last book in this list (rounding out the requisite six books for
this type of display) is Tolkien's Lord of the Rings. This is the ultimate fictional travel story, among many other things, and it
changed my life when I was 14. Like the other tales in this list, it describes ordinary folk leaving home to journey into
extraordinary adventure.
Hunting around the web for someone doing free-spirited RV travel fulltime, I found Tioga and George, a great adventurer whose
footsteps we eventually followed. There is a good website full of RVers' websites and blogs: RV Resources and another is:
During our stay in San Diego in October, 2008, we met Stephen Mann and Kathleen Torres who took their 39' sailboat around
the world via the southern route -- south of the Capes of each continent -- planning just five stops along the way. They did the
trip in just over 8 months, finishing by June, 2009. For reference, a "fast" cruise around the world on a sailboat generally takes
2-3 years, and most cruisers take 4-8 years to complete a circumnavigation. Their blog is on svtawodi.com. We met them at
their open-boat going away party a few days before they left.
Before we left on our own travels, I wanted to learn more about the equipment and budgets that were required by travelers, and I
found the website of Gilana, a boat sailed by a South African family of four to the eastern coasts of South and North America and
to the Mediterranean and Europe. This boat is amazingly well built and equipped for this kind of trans-oceanic travel. The photo
of the battery bank -- ten Trojan 105 6-volt batteries -- is astonishing. If we were to put that battery bank in our fifth wheel we'd
crush the truck! Not quite, but it would certainly fill the entire basement compartment. This website also discusses their budget in
detail, something I found very helpful. I was amazed when I emailed them with a question and received a reply -- from the middle
of the Atlantic Ocean as they made one of several crossings.
Everyone wants a brand new home to travel in, whether it's a glorious yacht or a mega Class A. However, it is not necessary. I
enjoyed the website of the Deckers who set out from San Diego in the early 2000's in an older modest sized mass production
boat they had sailed for years on the Great Lakes. They loved their boat so much they named it "Limerence" which refers to that
glowing state you feel when you fall in love. They were also part of the west coast group held together by the magazine Latitude
38 which hosts an annual migration from San Diego to Cabo San Lucas, Mexico, encouraging a "class" each year of people
making their first "puddle jump" from the Americas to the South Pacific. However, they went to the Caribbean and Meditterranean
after arriving in Cabo rather than heading west.
Maintaining your travel home, whether boat or RV, takes discipline, and I was floored by the detail of the maintenance log that
was followed by the couple aboard Heartsong. This website is also interesting because they left home with a finite trip of a few
years in mind. They knew they would be returning to their workaday lives, but they had a blast while they were gone. Not
surprisingly, they found it agonizing to return home and sell the boat!
RV FORUMS
Among RV travelers I found very few websites that gave the kind of detailed budget and equipment information I was looking for.
Most of those issues are very well addressed in several online forums, however. These forums are terrific for getting survey
answers to your questions. Usually the question has already been posed a few times, so a search of the forum will turn up the
answers without your having to post the question yourself. The only caveat about online forums is that you have no context for
the answers you receive. Sometimes the answers are written by true experts, and sometimes they are mere guesses written by
others. Also, the person writing the answer may have the same world view and travel style as you do, or they may not, and this
can skew the value of what they have to say.
My favorite RV forum is the NuWa Owners Forum, and not just because we live in a NuWa product! This forum is monitored by
the CEO of NuWa, Mike Mitchell. His presence is felt on every page, and this keeps the forum from deviating into personal rants.
Most of the issues discussed apply to all brands of RVs, as the component parts and appliances in all RVs are the same. I did not
realize how important this forum is to product development at NuWa until I spent a month in Chanute, Kansas, home of NuWa
headquarters. While I was there, I spent a lot of time on this forum between factory visits. I was shocked as heck when I
wandered into the plant and found that all the managers I talked to had read my forum entries. It seems that even though Mike
was out of town at the time, he monitors the forum and forwards valuable entries to the appropriate managers for their review.
Another great forum is the Arctic Fox & Nash Owners Forum. This is not monitored by the CEO of Northwood Manufacturing,
but what I like is that most Arctic Fox (and Nash) owners do a lot of drycamping and boondocking, so many issues related to that
kind of travel are discussed. The Airstream Owners Forum also has some good info.
Escapees has an excellent forum as well. This forum has an area for people planning their escape into the world of fulltime RV
travel, and they organize themselves in "classes" with graduation dates in upcoming years when their dreams will come true.
The biggest forum is RV.net. The good thing about this forum is that it is broad in scope, as it is not tied to a manufacturer or
club. However, the downside is that it is often a place where people get sidetracked into rants. Emotions run high on this forum,
and good factual information is often lost in the process.
GENERAL TRAVEL WEBSITES
A terrific travel website that offers articles by many writers on destinations around the world is GoNomad.com. Another excellent
website of cycling adventures worldwide is: CrazyGuyOnABike.com For cruising blogs, check out: SailAway.us.
For some amazing worldwide adventures, see: Everything-Everywhere.com.
Sunset Crater, AZ – Looks Like it Exploded Yesterday!
Getting weighed
Campsite at Bonito in Flagstaff.
Boondocking in the Cinder Hills OHV Area
Solar panel installation
Sunset Crater erupted 800 years ago
Smooth cinder hills alongside the road
Cinder hills and lava flow
San Francisco Peaks
Cinders are black gravel and red gravel
San Francisco Peaks
View from the top of the Lava Flow Trail hike
Vermillion Cliffs near Lees Ferry
Neat spot for a house!
Vermillion Cliffs - many colors in the rocks
Start of the climb out of the desert up to the Kaibab Plateau
Sunset Crater National Monument, Arizona
June 4-24, 2008 - We drove from Chanute, Kansas to Flagstaff, Arizona (1,200
miles) in just 3 days. We stopped long enough to weigh the truck and trailer at a
Flying J truck scale and found we were right at the limit. Even though we had filled
only 1/3 of the cabinet space, our weight (with water and propane) was 13,850 lbs --
and the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) is 13,995 lbs. No wonder the truck
noticed the load!! This wasn't the little Lynx any longer! We had met a lot of fifth
wheel owners whose cabinets and closets were stuffed to overflowing. They must
run about 2,000 lbs or more over their GVWR.
As we traveled across
country the air got dryer
and the terrain got craggier. On I-40 in Texas, 10 miles west of the
New Mexico border, there was a very distinct transition from open
plains to a desert landscape. We had left tornado alley in the middle
of tornado season and we were glad to leave the severe storm
warnings and tornado watches behind. However we drove straight
into a vicious headwind all the way across the country, and in New
Mexico and Arizona the winds were staggering. We were paying far
more for gas than we ever had -- and we were getting 8.2 miles per
gallon!!
At an Arizona
visitors center
we heard
another fifth wheel driver discussing routes to Wasington with the host,
trying to find a way to get out of the horrible winds. Not possible! When
we arrived in Flagstaff it felt good to be among the tall pines under clear
blue skies again. The winds eventually subsided, and we relaxed at our
favorite campground northeast of Flagstaff, Bonito Campground. We
retired the truck for a while, sticking to our bikes as much as possible.
Flagstaff has a fantastic store for solar power related items (Northern
Arizona Wind and Sun), and just like the previous year, we used our
time in town to purchase a complete solar setup. We upgraded to
490 watts of power (from 130) and a permanently installed pure sine
wave inverter. We boondocked in the Cinder Hills OHV Area and
Mark took his time installing the new panels on the roof and the
charge controller and inverter in the basement. After three days it
was done, and the system has been phenomenal ever since.
Wherever we are, it is always as if we have full electrical hookups.
The hummingbirds loved our feeder, and we
enjoyed watching them zip around. One
morning a pair of warblers came to the feeder
for a visit. Their beaks weren't shaped quite
right for the feeder, so they didn't stick around,
but I was thrilled to get their picture through
the window.
We took some leisurely bike rides through
Sunset Crater National Monument. This is a beautiful area for cycling, as there is no traffic and the road is smooth and scenic.
Sunset Crater blew its top 800 years ago, filling the skies and covering the ground with cinder ash. The cinder ash (black gravel) is
so thick that little can grow in it. This makes the area seem as though the volcano erupted just a few years back. The cinder hills
seem smooth from a distance, and there are places where the gravel is actually black sand. In other spots the black gives way to
shades of red and brown, again making it seem as though this mountain were engulfed in volcanic flames sometime within my own
lifetime. There is a region where the lava flowed, and today it is an impenetrable strip of sharp black rock. If you look closely you
can almost see the ripples and waves as this thick angry goo washed down from the mountain.
In the distance the San Francisco peaks were still snow capped.
Standing over 12,000 feet high, the tallest of the peaks is easily visible
from the North Rim of the Grand Canyon some one hundred miles
away as the condor flies. The Navajo and other native peoples have
long felt that the San Francisco peaks were sacred. I had never really
understood exactly why until a few weeks later when we were camped
on the North Rim and were looking back at these peaks across the
canyon. Every afternoon, like clockwork, the clouds would begin to
form over Mt. Humphreys. There was no doubt that those mountains
attracted -- or were even the source -- of rain. Looking down at the
barren plateau on the Colorado River at the bottom of the Canyon I
could understand why the ancients revered that distant mountain. It
brought them much needed water for their crops.
We took a hike with friends up the Lava Flow Trail and
found some spectacular views of the San Francisco
peaks and the valleys surrounding the mountains. It
was a steep but short climb up the hill and well worth
the view at the top.
When we first arrived in Flagstaff the overnight
temperatures were in the 30's and daytime highs were
in the high 60's. After a few weeks the highs were
getting into the 90's. Even boondocked in total shade
(we found it was a miracle that the solar panels still
fully charged the batteries everyday despite being in
full shade!), we were too hot. It was time to move on
to somewhere cooler.
We headed to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. It
is a significant drive to get there. Even though
condors and intrepid hikers
can cross the chasm in just 21
miles, it is a 200 mile trip by
car, because you have to go
way to the east, then a bunch
north, way to the west, and
then drop south to get there.
The drive takes you through
some beautiful desert
areas. The Vemillion
Cliffs are stunning, jutting
up out of the desert floor
in vibrant shades of
orange, red, and even
turquoise. There is little
in the way of towns on
this drive, just occasional
hamlets with perhaps a
store and cluster of
trailers. We drove with
our eyes glued to the
beautiful scenery.
After taking the big left turn near Lees Ferry to head west, the red desert
suddenly gives way to greenery and you begin a steep and winding climb
up onto the Kaibab Plateau. The desert floor is at about 4,000 feet
elevation and the top of the Kaibab Plateau is at about 9,000 feet. North
Rim here we come!!
Chanute, KS – Tour of NuWa / Hitchhiker RV Factory
Train engine in Santa Fe City Park
Chanute, Kansas
Historic bridge, Santa Fe Park, Chanute
Waterfall in the park
Families come to the park every evening
Goose family: mom, dad,
5 goslings & a nanny
The World Harmony Run RV
NuWa Industries !!
A fifth wheel frame
Holding tanks being installed in the frame
Walls are vacuum bonded Blue Dow
styrofoam and gel-coat fiberglass --
a winning and unique combination
Walls being installed on a frame
Slide-out walls lined up
A slide-out being built
A slideout being installed on a trailer
Ceiling/roof trusses lined up
Windows lined up
Cabinets get assembled
Furniture ready to be installed
End of the line
Hey - we have that exact same wall trim
in our Fleetwood Prowler Lynx !!
Hitchhiker & Lynx side by side
Goodbye Little Lynx !!!
We join the other NuWa owners at the Chanute city RV park
Chanute, Kansas
May, 2008 - We had been kicking around the idea of upgrading to a fifth wheel
trailer since our winter months in Quartzsite and Yuma, Arizona. We loved the
little Lynx and it had taken good care of us. If we were traveling only part-time, six
to nine months a year, then there would have been no need to change. A 27'
travel trailer is ideal for skipping around the country seeing the sights if you have a
home to return to. However, with fulltime travel we found there were periods
where we needed to stop and simply live for a while. We couldn't keep moving
continuously. We had to catch our breath, absorb what we'd seen, and simply be:
watch TV, read, talk, write, maintain the rig, etc. During the cold months, on rainy
days and during long winter nights, we always secretly wished we had just a little
more room. So we began researching fifth wheels.
By May we had a stack of brochures three inches thick and had been in and
out of hundreds of trailers on maybe 20 different dealer lots across the
country. We had interviewed anyone and everyone that was in a fifth wheel
to find out what they liked and didn't like about their brand. We had
narrowed down the search to three prospective manufacturers: NuWa
(pronounced "New Way" as in "New Way of Camping" coined circa 1965) in
Chanute, Kansas, Alpenlite (Western Recreational Vehicles) in Yakima,
Washington, and Arctic Fox (Northwood Manufacturing) in LaGrande,
Oregon. We had seen the Arctic Fox plant the previous summer (along with
Fleetwood which has a plant 50 miles away). When we had planned to go to
Florida we had decided to stop at NuWa in southeastern Kansas on the way
home after passing through the Ozarks.
Chanute is a small city largely supported by the NuWa manufacturing plant and
its companion plants, Young's Manufacturing (which makes trailer frames,
including some for NuWa), and HiLo Manufacturing (which makes trailer furniture
and cabinets, including some for NuWa). When we signed in at the town's
historical center, of the fifteen people who signed in before us, fourteen were
visiting the NuWa plant and one was looking for a job.
We slipped out of
sightseeing mode as
soon as we arrived in
Chanute. We were
there to visit the factory
and learn more about their fifth wheel trailers. While we stayed in the city
park, a pretty park with an area for RVs, we took many afternoon and
evening jaunts around the park, on foot and by bike. It is a lovely place
with an old train engine you can climb on, a historic bridge and a waterfall
that gushes with amazing force when it rains hard.
There was a family of
Canada geese that we
watched grow up during
our stay: two parents, five goslings
and a nanny. The nanny was
always with the family, but she (or
he?) wasn't a Canada goose.
Other geese came and went, but
this family, including the nanny,
always stuck together. There
were ducks at the park too, and
one pair was on eggs.
The city park is well used by the
locals and by all kinds of travelers
too. Ninety percent of the RVs in
the park were NuWa owners
who were in town for warranty
or other service work on their
trailer. However we saw
several traveling cyclists come
through with panniers and
tents, and at one point a
carnival came into town and
their trailers filled the park.
One night as we walked we saw some very fit people milling about, and they
turned out to be part of the World Harmony Run, a group that was running relays
around the US all summer. There were eight runners with them in Chanute, and
they were running about 100 miles a day as a relay.
NuWa opens its doors to
visitors with a formal factory tour every morning. We took the tour three times,
and each time there were at least 10 people on the tour. The NuWa employees
were extremely hospitable, and Debbie in HR and Brett in Sales made us feel
right at home. We mingled at the plant almost daily, saw familiar faces fishing in
the park in the evenings, and bumped into Ed Cox, a sales manager and the city
mayor, repeatedly, all over town. We became more and more enamored of the
company. It is well run and tight knit. We visited the plant at one of the worst
possible times in their 50-year history. With the US economy slowing and gas
prices skyrocketing, the RV industry was not happy. While we were in town we
learned that four major high-end RV manufacturers had closed their doors:
Travel Supreme, Western RV (Alpenlite and Alpine Coach), Alpha (See Ya!), and
King of the Road. These were all direct competitors for NuWa. In preparation for the downturn, NuWa had consolidated two plants
into one and streamlined their workforce to carry the company forward.
We talked extensively with all the NuWa owners in the RV park.
Most would come in for just three or four days, so we ended up
becoming friendly with quite a few owners during our month in
town. Many invited us in to see their trailers, and all talked
extensively about their experience with the trailer, their dealer and
the factory. Everyone was in town with problems to be fixed, but
there was no pattern to the problems. The only pattern we saw
was that people liked their trailers (many were repeat buyers), and
they seemed very happy with the service they received.
When we arrived in town we thought we might eventually order a
Discover America 333RL, and we peppered everyone who would
listen at NuWa with questions about its various options and what
modifications might be coming up in the future. By the time we left
we had found there was a 2007 Hitchhiker II LS 34.5 RLTG sitting
in the back lot that had never gone out to a dealer. It was one of the last 2007's built and it was in the color I liked (which had been
discontinued). NuWa sells through dealerships exclusively, so we worked out a deal with Russ Herron at NuWa and Carl Fogleman
at H&K Camper Sales in nearby Columbus, Kansas, and suddenly we were the proud owners of a new trailer!
NUWA FIFTH WHEEL FACTORY TOUR
H&K Camper Sales is a fantastic dealership, and they allowed us to park
the two trailers side-by-side in the VFW park in Columbus for a few days while we moved things over and got organized. The
amount of extra floor space was startling, and the new rig felt very luxurious. It was a sad day, however, when John from H&K
towed the Lynx away. But our smiles quickly returned when we set ourselves up in the Santa Fe city park in Chanute, right along
with all the other NuWa owners!
After testing out all the systems in the new trailer and making sure
everything worked properly, we were ready to go back out west
again. We had been living in Tornado Alley for the peak month of
Tornado Season and had already been evacuated once to the Super
8 motel across the street. When you're living in a trailer in Kansas
and the cops knock on your door and tell you to evacuate, you do as
you're told!! Luckily, no tornados came through Chanute, but the day
we were evacuated, Pricher, Oklahoma, 80 miles away, was
devastated.
A man living in a 1980's vintage Holiday
Rambler travel trailer that ended up in a
million pieces was really interested in
buying the Lynx from H&K. Hopefully he
worked out a deal and was able to move
in. Meanwhile we wanted to get to
northern Arizona to install our solar
panels and start our summer travels.
Ozarks (AR) – Pretty Scenery
Ozark Bathhouse
Public confederate pride
Ed's Flags
Private confederate pride
Scenic Route 7
Overlook in the Ozarks
Diesel prices jump
Ozark Mountains, Arkansas
May 2-4, 2008 - After leaving the Natchez Trace we were on a
mission to get to Kansas, but we took the scenic route through
the Ozark mountains rather than the interstate to get there. We
stopped briefly in the town of Hot Springs which is famous for its
hot baths. Fancy bathhouses were erected along the main
drag for tourists to enjoy steaming in the hot baths. We didn't
take a dip, but the buildings were intriguing.
We were also
intrigued to find that
the Confederate flag
was flown in many
places here as well,
including the front
courtyard of a public
building.
Ed's Flags was
doing a bang-up
business, and he
included the
Confederate flag
in his lineup.
The most
common place
to spot a
Confederate
flag was in the
front yard of a
home.
The Scenic Route 7 through the mountains is a hilly, twisty drive. It was
a little bit of a struggle with the buggy, and Mark had to concentrate as
we wound our way up and down through the range. We saw lots of
motorcycles and even a motorcycle rally. This would be an ideal
place for any kind of two-wheeled vehicle.
There weren't too many lookouts with views, but we did stop at one
where we got a good view of the valley.
We weren't near any major cities, and the gas prices reflected that.
When we arrived in Florida on February 5th, 2008, diesel was $3.11
a gallon. Now, a mere three months later, diesel in Arkansas was
$4.39. Little did we know that by the time we got to the North Rim of
the Grand Canyon, two months after we took this photo, diesel would
be $5.34 a gallon.
We passed through several fascinating little communities where all the signs were in Spanish. I had always thought that the border
states had the most Latino residents, but here in the heart of the Ozarks we discovered some thriving Hispanic communities.
We had been told at two visitors centers in Arkansas not to miss Eureka Springs. It is a quaint
town, they said, with a very cute main street and lots of charm. Unfortunately, it is not RV
friendly. In fact, it is not tourist friendly. We stopped at the visitors center on the edge of town to
find out where we could park so we could walk the town. It turned out that in order to see the
town you had to pay $5 to park your RV for the day outside of town and then you had to take a
shuttle bus into town -- $9 for two people. So in order to see this quaint, charming town we had
to shell out $14. On top of that, the restrooms in the visitors center weren't even in their
building. They were way around in the back behind a bunch of shops, and they were decrepit
and dirty. So we skipped Eureka Springs. One theme that has been repeated over and over in
our travels is that the more you pay the less you get.
From the Ozarks we scooted through Missouri and finally landed in Chanute, Kansas, a small
town tucked into the southeastern corner of the state.
Natchez Trace Parkway, MS – Echoes of History!
Natchez Trace Parkway
The Old Trace
Mount Locust "stand"
Dining room - with seating for 6
Parents' bedroom
10 kids slept here (5 in each bed?!)
Grandmother and eldest daughter slept here.
Driveway to Stanfield
Stanfield, where Andrew Jackson was married.
Rocky Springs Campground
Rocky Springs:
Population 1860 - 2,616
Population Today - 0
Bank vault
Rocky Springs Church, built 1837
Rocky Springs Graveyard
French Camp
Natchez Trace & Jim Henson Museum, Mississippi
April 29-May 2, 2008 - We left Natchez and ventured onto the Natchez
Trace Parkway, a 444 mile road that follows a primitive trail linking
Natchez, Mississippi with Nashville, Tennesse. The Parkway is a
remarkable two lane road that is closed to commercial traffic and has a
speed limit of 50 mph. The National Park Service oversees the Parkway
and maintains three free campgrounds along its length. Because of the
low speed limit the traffic is non-
existent and we often drove for many
miles without seeing another vehicle.
There is a lot of history along the
Trace and at times it felt like we were
viewing layers of history. We saw
Indian burial mounds from 4,000
years ago and travelers' "stands" or
inns from 150 years ago.
The original Trace was created by buffalo and other animals migrating north-south. The ancient
peoples used the trail for their own migrations. In the 1700's European traders would bring furs
and other goods down the Mississippi by boat, sell their goods in Natchez (and even sell their
boat for lumber) and then walk back to Nashville and other points north to do it again.
The Trace became a popular
place for highway robbers, as the
folks walking north from Natchez
had money in their pockets and
little protection. In the early 1800's, seeking to bind the vast and
turbulent frontier to its northeast seat of power, President Jefferson
ordered the army to widen the trail and make it a road passable by
wagon.
As was noted by the Secretary of State at the time, "the passage of
mail from Natchez is as tedious as from Europe when westerly winds
prevail." The Trace vastly improved communications, but by 1830 it
fell into disuse as steamboats going up and down the Mississippi
river offered easier transportation. The Natchez Trace Parkway
weaves along the original Trace route. At times the original Trace is
visible. It is a mere hiking trail. After the Trace was built into a road,
"stands" or inns popped up along the route. These offered food and
lodging to travelers -- on a very simple scale.
We visited the Mount
Locust stand. A family
operated this stand with
51 slaves. In the main
house the parents slept
in one bedroom. The
grandmother and eldest
daughter in another.
The other ten kids slept
in the remaining
bedroom. The
mattresses were made
of corn husks and rope.
Visitors made do on the
porch.
Looking at these
cramped
accommodations it was
hard to imagine that
arriving at one of these
stands was all that
inviting. However, after
walking or riding a horse
all day on a dirt trail
these intrepid travelers must have been accustomed to truly roughing it.
Nothing like us, with our motorized transport, smooth paved roads to drive on
and a buggy with a well stocked fridge, freezer, hot shower and 12 inch mattress.
We stopped briefly at Stanfield, the mansion where Andrew Jackson was married.
Like others we had visited, there was a long tree-lined drive up to the house, and
the house was a
pillared beauty.
At Rocky Springs Campground, one of three lovely and free
campgrounds on the Trace, we were treated to a gorgeous morning
with filtered sunlight pouring through the trees.
On the edge of this
campground is the
ghost town of Rocky
Springs. All that
remains of this once
bustling town is the church, the graveyard and two bank vaults. The abandoned
bank vaults reminded me of the vault we had seen in the Gulf Coast town of Bay
St. Louis, MS. However, the once prosperous rural town of Rocky Springs wasn't
devastated by a hurricane. Instead its death came from many sources: bad land
management that cleared hillsides for cotton leaving
erosion scars that can be seen today, the Civil War, a
yellow fever epidemic in 1878 and a boll weevil infestation.
It was eerie to walk a small trail through the woods where
there had once been cotton plantations and 2,616 residents.
There is nothing but trees now.
Up on the hill the church is still used, but
the cemetery's stones all date from the
1800's. How can a town vanish in just a
little over 100 years?
Port Gibson is one of the larger towns at
the southern end of the Trace. At one
time it was considered "too beautiful to
burn," but we didn't find it particularly
inspiring. There was an interesting mural
on the wall of one building, and a small street with a handful of
stores, some in business and some shuttered. More intriguing were
the homes on the outskirts of town where the Confederate flag was
flying. Some flew the flag along with the American flag, and some
flew it alone.
We took advantage of this ideal area for cycling to do a few rides along
the Trace. With no noticeable traffic, modest rollers, and interesting
historical sites every few miles, we thoroughly enjoyed our rides. One
day, while camped further north on the Trace at Jeff Busby
Campground, we rode our bikes down to French Camp. This was a
bustling community in earlier days and had several pretty buildings.
Besides the recent historical sites that can be seen on Natchez
Trace, there are a lot of prehistorical sites as well. We stopped
at several Indian ceremonial and burial mounds. Archaeologists
have dug through these mounds and made some startling
discoveries. At one site, when the leader of the tribe died it
seemed that all his attendants were killed and buried with him.
Often they were killed by strangulation. Likewise, when a parent
died sometimes the rest of the family would be strangled and
buried with the parent. As I pondered all this back at the
campground -- in the pretty setting sun -- it occurred to me that even though lots of people have concerns about individual rights in
our culture today, at least we don't do that.
After we left the Natchez Trace Parkway we headed west and
north towards Arkansas. I was dozing when suddenly Mark
said, "Look, Kermit the Frog...!" I woke up just in time to see a
billboard for the Jim Henson museum. We spent a very happy
hour at this little outpost in Leland, Mississippi that is a
charming museum of Jim Henson memorabilia. It is run as a
labor of love by a woman who raised her children watching
Sesame Street.
I remember when that television show first aired in 1969. As a
nine-year-old its alphabet and numbers lessons were a little
juvenile, but I remember loving the gentle humor and I
watched it for many hours with my younger sister.
Mark knew the show from raising his kids watching it. He had been a
teenager when it first aired, so he never saw the episodes I did. It was
amusing standing around with the proprietor and realizing that all three
of us had watched it during different eras and we remembered different
things -- even different muppet characters.
This little stop in Leland rounded out a delightful visit to Mississippi.
From there it was on to the Ozarks in Arkansas.