Surfing the dinghy = Crash landings on the beach!

Posted on March 18, 2013 by Roads Less Traveled

March 19, 2013 – One of the craziest aspects of cruising Mexico’s Pacific coast is the insane dinghy beach landings. Sometimes the surf is up, and you have to time your beach landing carefully, or you’ll get a serious dousing. We watched an experienced cruiser lose control of his dink on his way out from the beach one time. It shot into the air like a rocket and flipped over upside down, scattering his belongings everywhere. Worse, his outboard was toast!

Sailing Mexico means surfing the dink sometimes

Not so easy getting in… and not so easy getting out either!!

Sooo… heading in to shore in Cuastecomate the other day, we packed our cameras in dry bags and set out to hit the village for some fun photography. But as we neared the beach and heard the huge crashers, we got cold feet. Back to Groovy we went, tails between our legs. Later, staring at the shore sulkily from the cockpit, we decided to give it another go. Properly dressed in bathing suits, and with everything lashed down in the dink in case it flipped, we saw a break in the rollers and Mark floored it towards the beach.

Dinghies with wheels just roll right onto the beach, but our porta-bote doesn’t have wheels. So Mark cut the engine at the last second to get the prop out of the water before it hit the sand. At the same time, I jumped out of the dink to pull it onto the beach before the next wave caught us. But this is a steep beach. I jumped too soon. The water was too deep. My feet didn’t hit the sand til I was half under the boat and hanging on for dear life. A huge wave grew to mammoth proportions behind us and crashed just inches from the back of the dink while I staggered to pull it to shore. It was all very funny, and we were both laughing hysterically. But a nicely dressed older couple walking hesitantly past us under a shared parasol stared at my dripping, sandy, soaked body in total disbelief.

Little did we all know, they had a better show coming. On the return trip into the crashing surf a few hours later, we waded into the series of small waves that was to be our escape route and jumped in the dink. Mark pulled on the outboard starter while I rowed with all my might. But he got no response from the engine. We were still floundering in the surf zone when the waves started to grow. “Hurry hurry!” I yelled, making little progress with the oars because his body was right where my left oar needed to be. The dinghy barely climbed over one breaking wave and then struggled over the next bigger one behind it. We just missed a good swamping each time.

Ten yanks on the outboard and some really colorful expletives later, the engine finally started. We were free. Looking back at beach, I could see the little old couple sitting under their parasol. Their mouths still hung open as our prop finally bit into the water and lurched us back to safety aboard Groovy.

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Other blog posts that give a glimpse of what it’s like to live on a sailboat:

Life on the Hook in Mexico – What do you do all day when you’re cruising in the tropics? 11/17/14
Oh, That’s Just Swell! – Life on a Boat that ROLLS At Anchor!! 05/17/13
Snap, Crackle, Pop – Fishy Sounds from Deep Under Our Boat! 04/17/13
The Tourist Tangle – All tied up in knots! 04/09/13
And God said: “Let the Beer Flow” 03/30/13
Showering on the hook = A carnival ride with your eyes closed! 03/28/13
Surfing the dinghy = Crash landings on the beach! 03/18/13
Swabbing the decks underway! 03/16/13
Cruising = Fixing your boat in exotic places! 03/02/13

More funny stories from our Mexico cruise + Tips for planning your own sailing cruise

Our most recent posts:

Buckskin Mountain State Park – Fun on the Colorado River! 01/31/26
How to Install Starlink Gen 3 in an RV? Use the Speedmount! 08/07/25
Escape to Paradise – Rocky Mountain Magic! 08/01/25
Is Forest River a Good RV? Well Built? Here’s Our Experience 06/20/25
Sunset Crater Nat’l Monument – Lava & Camels at Bonito CG! 06/06/25

More of our Latest Posts are in the MENU above.

Swabbing the decks underway!

Posted on March 16, 2013 by Roads Less Traveled

Swabbing the decks is one way to pass the time!

March 16, 2013 – Long passages under power can be a bit boring, so one way we sometimes spice it up is to swab the decks! This is especially helpful if we’ve been in a dirty port for a while (Manzanillo is notorious for the soot from the power plant), or if we’ve had a particularly gnarly passage with lots of salt spray on deck.

After much trial and error with everything from garden sprayers to “Absorber” towels, we’ve figured out a system for cleaning the boat at sea. Mark gets the watermaker going, and I get busy with a soft bristle brush and bucket of soapy water (boat soap or Turtle-Wax car washing soap). Starting at the highest point on the boat, I swab my way down to the gunwales, and then from forward to aft, ending up in the cockpit.

While I’m swabbing away, Mark fills 5-gallon bottles of water and hands them up through the companionway hatch so I can rinse as I go. We use old plastic drinking water bottles, the kind with handles that are easy to carry. He rotates 3 bottles, and can get one filled in about the time that I use one up, going through about 20 bottles in the process. One of the great things about using watermaker water for washing the boat is that it doesn’t spot. So there’s no need to wipe anything down afterwards!

This is a great workout — we always end up quite sore afterwards — and it’s good for practicing your balance too, because the boat heaves and rolls in the swell (of course we only do this when it’s calm!). The reward for this hour or two of hard labor is having a sparkling clean boat when we get where we’re going. But one thing we learned the hard way: if we’re cleaning the cabin too, we shake out the rugs before swabbing the decks!! (And, of course, in a dry climate like Mexico, washing the boat is bound to induce rain… our latest cleaning brought a torrential downpour with 24 hours!!)

If you’re thinking about going cruising, and haven’t outfitted your boat with a watermaker yet, consider getting a very large capacity watermaker (ours is an Echotec 900-BML-2 which we’ve found produces 60 gallons an hour).

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Never miss a post — it’s free!

Other blog posts that give a glimpse of what it’s like to live on a sailboat:

Life on the Hook in Mexico – What do you do all day when you’re cruising in the tropics? 11/17/14
Oh, That’s Just Swell! – Life on a Boat that ROLLS At Anchor!! 05/17/13
Snap, Crackle, Pop – Fishy Sounds from Deep Under Our Boat! 04/17/13
The Tourist Tangle – All tied up in knots! 04/09/13
And God said: “Let the Beer Flow” 03/30/13
Showering on the hook = A carnival ride with your eyes closed! 03/28/13
Surfing the dinghy = Crash landings on the beach! 03/18/13
Swabbing the decks underway! 03/16/13
Cruising = Fixing your boat in exotic places! 03/02/13

More funny stories from our Mexico cruise + Tips for planning your own sailing cruise

Our most recent posts:

More of our Latest Posts are in the MENU above.

Zihuatanejo – A place people keep coming back to… us included!

Posted on March 14, 2013 by Roads Less Traveled

Zihuatanejo catamaran cruising boat sail blog

Zihuatanejo bay was busy when we got back.

Late February, 2013 – After our whirlwind inland trip to see Morelia, the migrating monarch butterflies and the magical town of Pátzcuaro, life aboard Groovy resumed very happily. Zihuatanejo is a vacation destination, and tourists were playing around us on the beach and in the water with gusto.

Zihuatanejo cruising yacht cruising blog

This power yacht has chairs & umbrellas!

One large motor yacht pulled in near us. They had a wonderful back deck with lounge chairs and umbrellas set out. Now that looked like the way to go cruising!

Zihuatanejo Playa La Ropa beach palapa sailing blog

One of our on-shore neighbors.

On our other side, along Playa La Ropa (the bay’s biggest beach), there was a series of palapa beach restaurants. They formed the backdrop to our view as the cruising boats came and went around us. Most boats were returning north, but a few were headed south.

These girls were having so much fun together…

Two boats with families aboard anchored nearby, and we got a huge kick out of watching the kids playing together. Before we left to go cruising, I had assumed that lots of families were “living the dream” aboard sailboats. The cruising magazines publish lots of stories about cruising families, and it led me to believe the ocean was teeming with young families afloat.

Zihuatanejo sunset cruising blog sailing blog

Another great sunset off our bow

Not so! In three years of cruising Mexico, we have met eleven boats with kids on board. So it was a real treat to see two boats cruising together with kids the same age. The girls were ten and eleven, and it was heartwarming to watch them jumping in and out of the water from the backs of their boats. They paddle-boarded over to visit each other, and they played all day with the joy and abandon that I remember from my own ten-year-old beach days.

Classic Zihuatanejo scene.

Pretty statue outside Lilly’s restaurant.

In the evenings the sun always set off Groovy‘s bow, silently falling into the sea. Even though it happened every afternoon, we never got tired of it. As the light would turn golden around us, we’d both run for our cameras and get up on the bow to catch the last rays.

Zihuatanejo is a busy little town with an active waterfront. Just like the sunsets, we never got tired of roaming around and watching all the action.

Everyone comes to the fish market…

Some serious fish selling goes on in the fish market, with folks of all kinds, from moms to businessmen, stopping by to pick up a little fish for dinner.

Double yellow head amazon Socorrito sailing blog

Socorrrrrrrrrito!! (she loves to roll her r’s)

Whenever we stepped on shore from the dinghy landing on the beach, we always heard funny whistling and singing and talking coming from the rafters of one particular building. The noise-maker was Socorrito (more formally, “Socorro”), an 18 year old double yellow headed amazon parrot who lives mostly outside her cage in the little store below Lilly’s restaurant.

One of Francisco’s plates.

She just loves to sing, and her owner would cajole her into performing for us all the time. She was terrific at improv music making. Great long trilling sounds and operatic vibrato came out of her beak, along with lots of Spanish with perfectly rolled r’s. Mark quietly rolled his eyes at the store owner while I carried on lengthy conversations with her.

plate painter Francisco de Alba Castillo cruising blog

Francisco shows off a plate.

musical instrument crutch harmonica spring sail blog

“La Bamba” on a crutch, a harmonica, a ribbed pipe and a screwdriver!

It is nice to return to a place and find things more or less as you left them the year before, and so it was with our friend the plate painter, Francisco de Alba Castillo. Like last year, he had an array of painted plates and spoons on display, and we admired his new ones each time we walked past.

As with so many street artists, this is his commercial outlet, but he loves to do fine art too. His next project, he told us, is a very large canvas painting that will show the Hand of God, a mighty fist thrust up into a brooding, lightning-filled sky, with blood dripping from the palm. Yikes! I wouldn’t have expected that from a guy who paints pretty seaside images on plates. But Francisco loves drama, and we got a huge charge out of his animated and flamboyant persona whenever we stopped to chat with him.

One of the most engaging things about Mexican seaside towns is the many clever ways people find to entertain and make money from the tourists. We stopped in a beach palapa restaurant one afternoon for a drink, and along with the usual parade of vendors, a fellow came along making the most bizarre music.

We get a tow from a water taxi!

He had rigged up a unique instrument built on a metal crutch. He mounted a harmonica to the top and tie-wrapped a piece of ribbed pipe or tubing to the side. To the bemused smiles of us all, he played a unique rendition of La Bamba. The ragged tune came out of his harmonica while he scraped a large screwdriver against the ribs of the tube for backup rhythm. His performance was worth a few pesos just for sheer inventiveness.

Getting to and from town was an easy mile-long dinghy ride — until the day the prop on our outboard pooped out. We had “spun” the prop back in Huatulco, and Mark had fixed it, but the bolts sheered on one trip across Z-town bay. Getting it fixed was a fun adventure, but when we got back from the repair shop Mark didn’t have the tools to remount the prop on the outboard.

Up the mast on Halcyon

We figured we’d row back to Groovy — good evercise, right? — but it was painfully slow. So Mark hailed a water taxi and we got a tow. Now that was a cool ride!!!

Zihuatanejo Fiesta Bamba tour boat sail blog

“Fiesta Bamba” gets a face lift.

Boat problems are a normal part of boating, no matter what kind of boat you have. We had anchored next to the elegant ketch Halcyon that was used for daysailing charters. It came and went almost daily, but one afternoon when there was no tour activity, we saw a guy going up the mast to fix something at the top. Luckily the bay wasn’t too rolly that afternoon.

Alberto (left) hosts a fiesta aboard Fiesta Bamba.

The captain of Halcyon, Alberto, was busily getting another tour boat ready for charter. From before dawn until after sunset his crew was busy banging and scraping away on Fiesta Bamba, and we saw the boat slowly come to life. “One more week and we can do tours!” Alberto proudly told us.

He threw a party for all his workers on one of the last days of work, and he invited us to stop over. What a blast! There was enough ceviche and beer to keep a boatload of young, thirsty, hungry and hardworking guys happy, and we joined right in the fun.

Zihuatanejo fishermen mend nets sailing blog

Fishermen mend nets under the shade of palm trees.

As with all these seaside towns, the local boat owners are a mix of fishermen and tour operators. The foundation of the local economy comes from the sea. The fishermen mended their nets under the shade of the trees on the beach while the waiters at the restaurants facing the beach capitalized on offering customers the romantic ambiance of dining while overlooking all that authentic fishing activity.

Chatting with a water taxi driver one day, we learned that the pangas the fishermen and water taxis drive are all built in Mazatlán. The newer ones are wonderful, sturdy, 20-odd foot fiberglass boats that cost about 30,000 pesos ($2,400 USD) for the basic hull.

Zihuatanejo pangas under tree sailing blog

The popular “panga” has a long history.

Water taxis get additional fiberglass shade enclosures added on, and everyone goes for a Yamaha outboard, anywhere from 48 to 75 hp.

Zihuatanejo Playa Principal palm tree cruising blog

Palm tree on Playa Principal, the main beach in Zihuatanejo.

These boats have their origins in canoe shaped boats from eons ago. In his Log from the Sea of Cortez, John Steinbeck describes the 1940’s era boats that paddled out to greeted him in ports along the coast. The panga has come a long way.

Some pangas get a fiberglass shade protection build on top.

Of course, the correctness of the word “panga” is debated. Many Mexicans have told us a real panga doesn’t have a motor, and that these boats are really “lanchas” because they are outboard driven. Some Sea of Cortez fishermen even say that “panga” is a gringo word.

And down in Central America we’ve been told the word “panga” disappears entirely, replaced by “lancha.” Whatever their real name, these boats are everywhere, even 20 miles out to sea.

Zihuatanejo Fisherman statue cruising blog

Fisherman statue in a tiny seaside park.

Mark spots a pretty hibiscus…

Pretty turrets look very inviting!

Colorful resorts cascade down to the bay.

Zihuatanejo is a colorful place, and we enjoyed trying to capture the vibrance of all we saw with our cameras.

Another lovely sunset off Groovy’s bow.

Some of the resorts that cascade down the hillsides have been painted in rich hues of burnt orange, red and yellow, with inviting shapes and pretty shade palapas.

Out in our anchorage we caught yet another pretty sunset off the bow. It’s no wonder people come to this town year after year.

And the funny thing was, with this being our third year in Z-town, we were now among those people too!

But eventually we felt the urge to move on, and we got ready to sail up the coast to Manzanillo’s incomparable Las Hadas Resort.

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Red sky at morning… should sailors take warning?

Posted on March 12, 2013 by Roads Less Traveled

Cruising Mexico (Manzanillo Bay & Santiago) Red sky at morning

Sunrise in Santiago this morning.

March 12, 2013 – Staying here in the Santiago area of Manzanillo Bay, we have been treated to some of the most lovely sunrises we’ve seen anywhere on Mexico’s Pacific coast. This wonderful daily drama sets up each day to perfection.

Oddly, the colorful skies are largely due to the coal fired power plant that sits at the opposite end of the bay. Manzanillo is a huge industrial port, loaded with freighters, and the smoke from the power plant fills the air with a steady stream of soot.

This isn’t so great for the deck of Groovy — after one day here the entire deck and cockpit were gritty with black dust. However, the sunrises and sunsets are truly magical. Our best “boat-in-a-sunrise” photos have all come from this bay (one of my favorites, from our first visit here in 2010, is on our home page).

Every morning since we got here, we’ve bolted out of bed to see what kinds of colors are on tap for the Good Morning Manzanillo sky show that day… So did the red sky this morning really mean “sailors take warning” ? Not so far. The pink clouds hung around to give us a largely overcast day, but there are no storms on the horizon…

See all our “snapshot” posts and/or our most recent longer posts…

Shhh!! Bootleg DVDs are like a box of chocolates…

Posted on March 11, 2013 by Roads Less Traveled

Pick a movie, any movie!

March 8, 2013 – Bootleg DVDs are sold on the street all over Mexico. They usually cost about 20 pesos ($1.60 USD), and they come in a plastic wrapper with a xeroxed image of the original DVD cover along with the unmarked DVD.

Some are clones of original DVDs, some are clones of Academy Award distribution copies, and some are from a video recorder that someone propped up in the theater (these usually have terrible sound quality, and one we saw had the bizarre periodic interruptions of the guy in front swigging a bottle of Dos Equuis beer every so often).

The Spanish movie titles often bear no resemblance to their English counterparts, and it’s a crap shoot as to what you are buying. If you like, the vendors will play the DVD on their TV/DVD player before you part with your money, and they usually swap the movie for another if it doesn’t work out.

Last night we had the intriguing international maritime experience of watching the movie Kon-Tiki, a documentary about a 1947 balsa wood raft that drifted from Peru to Polynesia, proving ancient Polynesia was settled by Peruvians rather than Asians. The dialog was in Norwegian and the movie had Spanish subtitles. Gosh, did those subtitles scroll fast. Luckily we knew the story!!

See all our “snapshot” posts and/or our most recent posts

Published Work by Emily & Mark Fagan

Posted on March 10, 2013 by Roads Less Traveled

We have published nearly 250 articles and 53 cover photos in the major RVing and cruising magazines, including:

RV Magazine ・ Escapees ・ Coast to Coast ・ Family RVing ・ Trailer Life ・ Highways ・ RV Journal ・ RV Life
Cruising World ・ Sail Magazine ・ Sailing ・ Blue Water Sailing ・ Latitude 38 ・ Motorhome

Below are some of the magazine cover photos we have published, listing the issue, location and the title of the accompanying feature article:

Family RVing Magazine Cover by Emily Fagan RV with puppy Nov/Dec 2025

November/December 2025
Photo: Our rig with Buddy
“RVing with Pets!”

Escapees Magazine cover by Emily Fagan July/Aug 202525 RV with a Polaris RZR side-by-side

July/August 2025
Photo: Arizona
“Waterfall Hunting”

Family RVing Magazine Cover by Emily Fagan Colorado Western Slope Sep-Oct 2025

Sep/Oct 2025
Photo: Colorado Rockiese
“Boondocking Tips!”

Escapees Magazine Cover by Emily Fagan Big Bend Texas Mar-Apr 2025

March/April 2025
Photo: Big Bend TX
“Big Bend National Park”

Escapees - Cover - Mar-Apr 25 - Buffalo WY

January/February 2025
Photo: Buffalo, Wyoming
“Counting Sheep”

Escapees - Cover Nov-Dec 2024 5th wheel with Christmas Tree

November/December 2024
Photo: Monte Vista RV Resort
“Arizona Copper Art Museum”

FMCA - Cover Nov-Dec 24 - Grand Teton NP

November/December 2024
Photo: Grand Teton NP
“Photography Tips”

Fall 2024
North Rim Grand Canyon
“Grand Canyon North Rim”

May/June 2024
Photo: Cochiti Rec Area NM
“If Walls Could Talk”

January 2024
Photo: Catalina State Park AZ
“A Visit to the Old Pueblo”

Escapees Nov-Dec 2023 COVER Canadian Rockies

Nov/Dec 2023
Photo: Moraine Lake Alberta
“Rocky Mountain High”

Summer 2023
Photo: Watkins Glen NY
“NY Finger Lakes”

Mar/Apr 2023
Photo: Big Horn Mountains, WY
“Buddy – A Journey in Spirit”

Jan/Feb 2023
Sun Valley, ID
“Cargo Buckle Ratchet Straps”

Fall 2022
Tucson, Arizona
“Tucson Delights”

Jul/Aug 2022
Quartzsite, Arizona
“Torklift Camper Tie-downs”

May/June 2022
Custer State Park, SD
“Where the Wild Things Are”

Nov/Dec 2021
Photo: Green River Overlook
“Flaming Gorge, UT”

Coast to Coast Magazine Cover - Fall 2021

Fall 2021
Photo: Banff National Park
“Canada’s National Parks”

Sep-Oct 2021
Michigan’s Upper Peninsula

July/August 2021
Photo: Big Wood River
“Sun Valley Idaho”

Spring 2021
Photo: Rockhound State Park
“New Mexico Road Trip”

Mar-Apr 2021
Photo: Star Trails in UT

November 2020
Photo: Waterton-Glacier NP
“Crown of the Continent”

May/June 2020
Photo: Phoenix, Arizona

Spring 2020
Photo: Sedona Arizona
“Red Rockin’ Sedona”

Jan/Feb 2020
Photo: Big Horn Mtns WY

Fall 2019
Photo: Upper Peninsula, MI
“Autumn Trip to the UP”

Nov/Dec 2019
Photo: Phoenix, AZ

Jan/Feb 2019
Photo: Superstition Mtns AZ
“Tucson AZ Highlights”

Coast to Coast Magazine Cover Idaho Summer 2018

Summer 2018
Photo: Mackay Idaho
“Idaho Road Trip”

Escapees RV Club Magazine Cover Mar-Apr 2018 Photo by Emily Fagan

Mar/Apr 2018
Photo: Asheville, NC
“Reflections on RV Life”

Coast to Coast Magazine Cover Maine Spring 2018

Spring 2018
Photo: Acadia National Park
“Downeast Maine”

Escapees RV Club Magazine Nov-Dec 2017 Cover Image

Nov/Dec 2017
Photo: Ridgway Colorado
“Winter RVing Tips”

Coast to Coast RV Magazine Summer 2017 Cover Image

Summer 2017
Photo: The Smokies NC
“Appalachian Mountains”

Coast to Coast Magazine Summer 2016 Eastern Oregon RV Travel

Fall 2016
Photo: Big Bend TX
“Exploring Oregon’s Quiet Side”

Escapees RV Magazine July 2016 Cover Photo

July/August 2016
Photo: Kanab, Utah
“Interview: Kay Peterson”

Coast to Coast Magazine Fall 2016 Cover Photo by Mark Fagan

Summer 2016
Photo: Eastern Oregon
“Splendid Isolation: Big Bend”

Escapees RV Club Travel Guide 2016 Cover

January 2016
Photo: Phoenix, Arizona

Fall 2015
Photo: Ouray, Colorado
“Colorful Colorado”

September / October 2015
Photo: Ridgway CO
“RV Travel Photography”

Coast to Coast Magazine Cover Summer 2015

Summer 2015
Photo: Capital Reef Utah
“Driving Amid the Red Rocks”

January 2015
Photo: Apache Junction, AZ

Escapees Magazine Cover Jan-Feb 2015-210

Jan/Feb 2015
Photo: Apache Junction, AZ
“Stay the Course”

Phoenix Arizona Cover Story Coast to Coast Magazine Fall 2014

Fall, 2014
Photo: Phoenix Arizona
“A Walk on the Wild Side”

January 2014
Photo: La Manzanilla, Mexico

Sep/Oct 2013
Photo: Flaming Gorge, Utah

Fall 2013
Photo: Telluride, Colorado
“Legends of the Fall”

Coast to Coast Magazine Cover Summer 2013

Summer 2013
Photo: Red Canyon, Utah
“Beyond Bryce Canyon”

April, 2013
Photo: Zihuatanejo, Mexico

RV Life Magazine Cover July 2013 Emily Fagan

July 2013
Photo: Flaming Gorge UT
“Chasing Rainbows”

coast-to-coast-magazine-cover-spring-2012

Spring 2012
Photo: Roosevelt Lake AZ
“Everything Under the Sun”

September 2010
Photo: Parowan Utah
“Once Upon a Time in the West”

coast-to-coast-magazine-cover-summer-2010

Summer 2010
Photo: Valley of Fire, NV
“Embers of History”

August 2010
Photo: Sun Valley, ID
“America’s Alps”

Jan/Feb 2009
Photo: Bryce Canyon, Utah

These are all great magazines, and we have been avid subscribers as well as contributors.

In case you don’t subscribe or didn’t catch a particular article of ours that interests you, you can read some of them from this page (below).

The articles are grouped by general category and are listed in reverse chronological order. The stories are written by me (Emily) and the photos are both mine and Mark’s.

You can navigate to the different groups of articles on this page by using the following links:

You can also read some of our articles online at the publishers’ websites:

RV Magazine – Includes archives of articles we originally published in Trailer Life and Motorhome Magazines
Escapees Magazine
Good Sam Club
Cruising World Magazine

WALL CALENDARS

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We have published photos in the following wall calendars. These are sold in boutique gift shops and online at Amazon:

Sedona Arizona after a snowstorm by Emily Fagan

2025 Sedona Arizona Wall Calendar
Sedona after a snowstorm
Emily Fagan

2025 Idaho Wall Calendar
The Bow Bridge
Emily Fagan

The Granite Dells Prescott Arizona by Mark Fagan

2025 Arizona Calendar
The Granite Dells
Mark Fagan

Arizona Wall Calendar
Petrified Forest National Park
Mark Fagan

2025 Idaho Wall Calendar
Mormon Temple in Idaho Falls
Mark Fagan

2025 Idaho Wall Calendar
Selway River
Emily Fagan

2024 Sedona Wall Calendar
Month of August
West Fork Trail – Emily Fagan

2024 Northern Arizona Wall Calendar
Calendar Cover and Month of July
Canyon de Chelly National Park – Mark Fagan
.

2024 Sedona Wall Calendar
Month of December
Bell Rock Pathway – Mark Fagan

2024 Utah “Mighty 5” Wall Calendar
Month of February
Bryce Canyon National Park – Emily Fagan
.

2021 Lake Powell Wall Calendar
Month of November
Glen Canyon Dam – Mark Fagan

2021 Puppies Wall Calendar
Month of April
Buddy – Emily Fagan

2021 Yellowstone Wall Calendar
Month of February
Grand Teton National Park – Emily Fagan

2021 Sedona Wall Calendar
Month of March
Chapel of the Holy Cross – Emily Fagan

2021 Sedona Wall Calendar
Month of July
West Fork Trail – Emily Fagan

2020 Sedona Wall Calendar
Month of May
Courthouse Vista – Mark Fagan

2020 Colorado Wall Calendar
Month of November
Million Dollar Highway – Emily Fagan

2019 Arizona Wall Calendar
Calendar cover and month of January
Canyon de Chelly National Park – Mark Fagan

RV DESTINATION ARTICLES

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Counting Sheep! – Escapees Magazine, Jan/Feb 2025
What a delightful surprise it was to encounter shepherds tending huge flocks of sheep while boondocking in the Rockies

Arizona Copper Art Museum – Escapees Magazine, Nov/Dec 2024
The Arizona Copper Art Museum is a unique and classy museum that showcases the beauty utility and history of copper.

7 Fabulous Bike Rides – Family RVing, Nov/Dec 2024
These are some of our favorite bicycles rides we’ve done in our RV travels around North America.

Halloween Camping in the Midwest – Escapees Magazine, Sep/Oct 2024
Hardy midwesterners extend the summer camping season with exuberant Halloween celebrations in almost all the campgrounds.

Grand Canyon North Rim – An Intimate View of Grand Canyon – Coast to Coast Magazine, Fall 2024
Grand Canyon’s North Rim is much less visited than the South Rim and boasts a special air of intimacy

Maysville, Kentucky – Camaraderie and history on the Ohio River – Coast to Coast Magazine, Summer 2024
Of all the charming small towns we’ve visited in North America, Maysville Kentucky tops them all for its hospitality and history!

If Walls Could Talk – Cliff Dwellings and Pueblos of the Southwest – Escapess Magazine, May/Jun 2024
A visit to four wonderful ancient cliff dwellings and pueblos in Arizona and New Mexico that are a bit off the beaten path

Sarasota, Florida – An Artsy Beach Town with Flair – Coast to Coast Magazine, Spring 2024
Sarasota, Florida is not only a winter vacation paradise but was once the home base for the Ringling Brothers Circus.

Burro Days – Burro Racing? Llama Racing? See it all in Fairplay, Colorado! – Escapees Magazine, Mar/Apr 2024
We bumped into three days of burro races, llama races, outhouse races and all kinds of whimsy in FairPlay, Colorado

Sedona Arizona – Where the Red Rocks Rock! – Escapees Magazine, Jan/Feb 2024
Sedona is a charming, artsy and slightly funky town nestled in some of the most impressive red rock scenery in America!

A Visit to the Old Pueblo – Family RVing, January 2024
Tucson is a fun-filled destination for a winter escape, offering beautiful scenery, an active nightlife and a colorful historic district.

Rocky Mountain High in Canada’s National Parks – Escapees Magazine, Nov/Dec 2023
The towering Rocky Mountains are utterly breathtaking and an ideal destination for outdoors enthusiasts and nature lovers.

Washington Highlights – Coast to Coast Magazine, Fall 2023
From a Bach music festival to a boat-in village in the North Cascades to 4th of July in a Mexican farming town, Washington is a blast.

Downeast Maine – Escapees Magazine, Jul/Aug 2023
Downeast Maine is full of stately lighthouses, bucolic small harbors, quaint New England towns and Acadia National Park!

New York Fingerlakes – Coast to Coast Magazine, Summer 2023
Elegant wineries, quaint Amish communities and stunning Watkins Glen waterfalls make the Finger Lakes a great RV destination.

Stehekin Ferry in Washington – Escapees, Nov/Dec 2022
The Stehekin Ferry takes visitors back in time to a unique boat-in only destination in the North Cascades.

Tucson Delights – Affenctionately known at the “Old Pueblo” – Coast to Coast, Fall 2022
Tucson’s old neighborhoods and old mission church were highlights along with petroglyphs and wild animals in Saguaro National Park.

High Mountain Adventures – Hidden Gems in Colorado – RV Magazine, October 2022
Visiting wineries in Fuita, scaling red rock wonders in Colorado National Monument and touching dinosaur bones too!

Precious Jewels in Montana and Wyoming – Coast to Coast Magazine, Summer 2022
From Cody, Wyoming, to Red Lodge, Montana, there are spectacular sights just outside Yellowstone National Park.

Custer State Park, SD – Where the Wild Things Are! – Escapees Magazine, May/June 2022
Custer State Park in the Black Hills of South Dakota is teeming with wild and feral animals – great for kids and kids at heart!

Waterfalls – Splash into Summer! – RV Magazine, May 2022
A look at several different stunning waterfalls that we found across the US.

Pioche Nevada – A living ghost town – Escapees Magazine, March/April 2022
Pioche was a mining town until the early 1900s. Today descendents of the miners live in town and the museum is filled with history.

Quartzsite Arizona – Winter Home of the Fun and Funky – RV Magazine, May 2022
Quartzsite is the winter gathering place for RVers from all over. Rigs fill the desert and eager shoppers fill the Big Tent at the RV show.

Flaming Gorge Utah – Escapees Magazine, Novemeber/December 2021
The Green River has carved a stunning canyon through the red rocks in Utah, and big horn sheep roam through the campground!

Leaf Peeping in Michigan – RV Magazine, October 2021
The brilliant hues of autumn pop out everywhere in Michigan. Here are some spots where we found the best color.

Majestic Canadian Rockies – Coast to Coast Magazine, Summer 2021
Four adjacent National Parks show off the jaw-droppingly gorgeous towering mountains of the Canadian Rockies.

Sun Valley Idaho – America’s Alps – Escapees Magazine, July/August 2021
Nestled in the majestic Sawtooth Mountains, Sun Valley is a fabulous playground for the rich and famous and for regular folk too!

Dinosaur National Monument – Escapees Magazine, May/June 2021
If you want to touch real dinosaur bones still lodged in the earth, this is the place to go. And the campground is lovely!

A New Mexico Road Trip – Coast to Coast Magazine, Spring 2021
From the martians and aliens in Roswell to the cliff dwellings of Bandelier to a caldera near Los Alamos, New Mexico has lots to offer.

Spring Mountain Ranch in Nevada – Escapees Magazine, March/April 2021
Near the Las Vegas Strip, you find yourself a world apart at this historic ranch set on the edge of Nevada’s red rock beauty

Sedona is for Lovers – RV Magazine, February 2021
What better place to take your Valentine to celebrate your love than scenic and trendy Sedona Arizona?!

Historic Yuma Arizona – Escapees Magazine, January 2021
From the “Hell Hole of the West” territorial prison to the charming old town adobe houses, Yuma is a colorful destination for an RV trip

Utah Red Rocks – RV Magazine, January 2021
Southern Utah is a vast playground of dazzling red rocks that make it one of America’s best places to take an RV and visit for a while.

Wintertime at Grand Canyon and Bryce Canyon National Parks – Escapees Magazine, November/December 2020
Both Grand Canyon and Bryce Canyon take on a mystical aura during and after a winter blizzard.

Halloween Camping in Michigan’s State Parks – Trailer Life Magazine, November 2020
Michigan’s State Parks host wonderful Halloween events for campers. What a hoo hoo hoot!

Fall Foliage in Colorado – Escapees Magazine, September/October 2020
Southwestern Colorado explodes in shades of gold each fall. This is a spectacle not to be missed!

A Road Trip along Lake Superior’s South Shore – Trailer Life Magazine, September 2020
From warm sand beaches to cold and stormy seas to pretty lighthouses, Lake Superior shoreline is rugged yet beautiful

Glacier and Waterton Lakes National Parks in Montana and Alberta – Trailer Life, May 2020
Glaciers carved spectacular valleys between the craggy mountain peaks in this unique International Peace Park

South Dakota’s Black Hills – Coast to Coast, Summer, 2020
Waterfalls, bike trails, funny feral burros and a world famous motorcycle rally make for great memories in the Black Hills

Small towns of Wyoming – Trailer Life Magazine, July 2020
A road trip along some of Wyoming less traveled byways takes us from one charming western town to another

Stunning Sedona, Arizona – Coast to Coast Magazine, Spring, 2020
Sedona is an outdoor lovers paradise tucked into an exquisite red rock setting that’s worthy of many return visits!

Top Hikes in the National Parks – Trailer Life Magazine, January, 2020
The best way to see the National Parks is on foot. Here are some beautiful hikes.

Visiting the National Parks in Winter – Trailer Life Maggazine, December, 2019
Most folks visit the National Parks in summertime, but winter offers a fabulous, intimate and very different experience.

Crater Lake National Park in Oregon – Trailer Life Magazine, November, 2019
The eye popping royal blue water at Oregon’s Crater Lake National Park is stunning against the snowy landscape

Chasing Fall Color in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula – Coast to Coast Magazine, Fall, 2019
Some of America’s best fall foliage can be found in Hiawatha National Forest in Michigan.

Goblin Valley State Park in Utah – Trailer Life Magazine, September, 2019
This wonderland state park is full of red rock hoodoos and brings out the kid in everyone

Wyoming’s Glorious Grand Teton National Park – Trailer Life Magazine, July, 2019
The Tetons are a stunning mountain range, and this National Park is among the best in the nation.

Wyoming’s Big Horn Mountains – Coast to Coast Magazine, Summer 2019
Wyoming is most famous for Yellowstone and the Tetons, but the equally majestic Big Horn Mountains are quieter!

Beartooth and Chief Joseph Highways – Trailer Life Magazine, July 2019
The Beartooth and Chief Joseph Highways in Montana and Wyoming are knock-your-socks-off spectacular!

Ancient Indian Ruins of New Mexico – Coast to Coast Magazine, Spring 2019
Aztec Ruins National Monument and Bandelier National Monument take us bad to the days of the Ancients.

Canadian Rockies – Stunning National Parks! – Trailer Life Magazine, May 2019
Four glorious national parks abut each other in Canada; Famous Banff and Jasper are just two of them!

Tucson Arizona Highlights – Escapees Magazine, Jan/Feb 2019
From a colorful historic district to an ancient mission church, Tucson is a fun place to visit.

Hawaii Escape – Escapees Magazine, Dec/Jan 2018
We leave our trailer behind to explore the island of Oahu!

Santa Fe New Mexico Highlights – Escapees Magazine, Oct/Nov 2018
From a slot canyon to some fabulous ancient Indian ruins there’s lots to see near Santa Fe.

Back Roads of Idaho – Coast to Coast Magazine, Summer 2018
Traveling the back roads of Idaho, there are charming small towns and beautiful mountains at every turn.

RVing Downeast Maine – Coast to Coast Magazine, Spring 2018
From Bangor to Acadia National Park to the furthest east town of Lubec, Maine has lots to offer RVers.

Maysville, Kentucky – Trailer Life Magazine, February 2018
Maysville, Kentucky, enchanted us with its gregarious and friendly spirit and charming historic downtown.

Animals Encounters in Arizona – Motorhome Magazine, December 2017
Arizona is crawling with wildlife. Here are some great places to see the special critters of the southwest.

Georgia On Their Minds – Trailer Life Magazine, September 2017
The South is known for hospitality, and a wonderful glimpse of the gentility of yesteryear is best seen on the Antebellum Trail

The Spirit of the Sea – Motorhome Magazine, August 2017
Following Nova Scotia’s Cabot Trail on Cape Breton Island we see stunning seascapes and cute harbors.

Quaint Side of Canada – Trailer Life Magazine, July 2017
Coastal travels from the pretty lighthouse at Peggy’s Cove to picturesque Lunenburg and Mahone Bay.

Virginia Mountain Majesty – Motorhome Magazine, July 2017
Following the Blue Ridge Highway through Virginia, we find blue grass music, wineries and majestic mountains.

Downeast Maine – Trailer Life RV Magazine, June 2017
Few people venture to the far northeast corner of America, but the seaside villages and local color are not to be missed!

New York’s Finger Lakes – Motorhome Magazine, May 2017
We explore a lesser known Amish community and enjoy some wine tasting between Amish farm outings.

Sweet Sarasota Florida – Trailer Life Magazine, March, 2017
Sarasota Florida is a beach lover’s paradise, with sugar sand beaches and turquoise water. But there’s lots of high culture too…

Maine Course – Motorhome Magazine, September, 2016
From craggy shores to sweet harbors to Rockefeller’s network of “Carriage Roads,” Acadia National Park rocks!

Splendid Isolation: The Big Bend – Coast to Coast Magazine, Fall, 2016
Big Bend National Park is ruggedly beautiful, from the Rio Grande to mountaintops and desert rocks. A daytrip to Mexico is a must!

New Hampshire’s Little Engine That Could – Trailer Life Magazine, August, 2016
We take a trip up Mt. Washington on the historic and unique Cog Railway to the Weather Station up top.

Exporing Oregon’s Quiet Side – Coast to Coast Magazine, Summer, 2016
From the rivers east of Bend to the snowcapped peaks of the Wallowa Mountains, eastern Oregon is a little known paradise.

Jewels of Florida’s Northern Gulf Coast – Motorhome Magazine, July, 2016
The Northern Gulf Coast of Florida is often overlooked in favor of more famous southern spots, but it has a lot to offer

High Country Holiday – Trailer Life Magazine, May, 2016
A visit to North Carolina’s Great Smoky National Park and the southern part of the Blue Ridge Parkway

Deep in the Heart of West Texas – Trailer Life Magazine, February, 2016
Big Bend National Park has mountains, deserts and rivers as well as ghost towns and a taste of Mexico!

Adventures in Central Arizona – Motorhome Magazine, November, 2015
The hub of central Arizona is Phoenix, but just outside the city lies a treasure trove of natural beauty.

Out Yonder in Oregon – Trailer Life Magazine, October, 2015
Tucked into a far corner of Oregon, the Wallowa Mountains are one of the best kept secrets in the West.

Finding the COLOR in Colorado – Coast to Coast Magazine, Fall, 2015
An autumn RV trip to the adorable mountain towns of Ouray and Silverton, Colorado, makes for a stunning immersion in fall colors.

Under the Idaho Sun – Trailer Life Magazine, August, 2015
Sun Valley Idaho is an RVers paradise with camping galore and free concerts, gallery walks and performances everyday.

Grand Teton National Park – Motorhome Magazine, August, 2015
Grand Teton National Park is flanked by a jaw-dropping mountain range, but there are dozens of hidden treasures too.

Driving between the Red Rocks: A Utah Roadtrip – Coast to Coast Magazine, Summer, 2015
Driving the spectacular Bicentennial Highway through Glen Canyon to Natural Bridges Nat’l Monument and Capitol Reef Nat’l Park.

The Sunny Side of Oregon – Trailer Life Magazine, May, 2015
From Crater Lake to the Deschutes, McKenzie and Crooked Rivers, we discover the beauty of Central Oregon.

Arizona’s Red Rock Country – Trailer Life Magazine, December, 2014
Hiking, biking and thrill seeking amid the red rocks of artsy Sedona Arizona.

A Walk on the Wild Side in Phoenix Arizona – Coast to Coast Magazine, Fall 2014
Beyond the urban sprawl of Phoenix, Arizona, is a world teeming with natural beauty on lovely waterways and hiking trails.

Montana’s Ghost Towns! – Trailer Life, August, 2014
Montana’s Gold Rush was not as famous as the one in California, but the ghost towns are just as fascinating.

Enchanting Ensenada – Escapees Magazine, Nov/Dec 2013
Ensenada is a fabulous destination by RV or boat, and makes a perfect introduction to travel in Mexico.

Legends of the Fall – Coast-to-Coast, Fall 2013
The red rocks of Colorado National Monument and the fall foliage on the San Juan Mountains are kaleidescopic.

Dinosaurs and Much Much More – RV Life, September 2013
From fossilized dinosaur bones to ancient petroglyphs, Dinosaur National Monument is magnificent!

Flaming Gorge – Red Rocks, Aquamarine Water & Rainbows! – Trailer Life, August 2013
A rainbow-filled visit to the stunning cliffs, river and dam at Utah’s Flaming Gorge.

Chasing Rainbows in Flaming Gorge – RV Life, July 2013
The sweeping views, brilliant red rocks and friendly animals make Flaming Gorge perfect for the whole family.

Beyond Bryce Canyon – Coast-to-Coast, Summer 2013
Some of the best of Utah lies between the more famous National Parks at Bryce and Zion.

Everything Under the Sun – Coast-to-Coast Magazine, Spring, 2012
We visit two desert lakes near Phoenix Arizona, deep in the heart of the cactus-studded Tonto National Forest.

Summer Fun in Sun Valley – RV Journal – Summer, 2011
From free outdoor concerts to scenic bike paths to towering mountains to history and luxury, this town has it all.

Roads Back in Time – Highways Magazine – October, 2010
A trip down memory lane at the unique RV/MH Hall of Fame museum in Elkhart, Indiana.

Once Upon a Time in the West – Highways Magazine – September, 2010
Two wonderful small town Labor Day celebrations: a rodeo in Helmville, Montana and a fair in Parowan, Utah.

America’s Alps – Highways Magazine – August, 2010
Sun Valley Idaho has something for everyone: soaring mountains, glitz & glam, cute bistros and an unusual history.

Embers of History – Coast-to-Coast Magazine – Summer, 2010
Valley of Fire State Park outside Las Vegas, Nevada, offers up red rock vistas and geological and human history.

Amish Heritage Trail – Escapees Magazine – May/June, 2010
Describes the intriguing self-guided CD-based tour you can take through Amish Country in the Elkhart, Indiana area.

Nevada Ranch’s Colorful History – RV Life – April, 2010
Spring Mountain Ranch, outside of Las Vegas, Nevada, is full of history, intrigue and fun surprises.

RV/MH Hall of Fame – Escapees Magazine – March/April, 2010
We visit the unusual RV/MH Hall of Fame in Elkhart, Indiana: library, museum, and home of kudos to the RV industry.

RV-Friendly Casinos – Escapees Magazine – November/December, 2009
Casinos offer RVers a lot besides gambling. From horse racing to a dip in a pool, our favorite casinos are here.

Yuma’s Hidden Treasures – RV Life – November, 2009
Take a visit to the Yuma Territorial State Prison, explore the Old Town, and see a colorful balloon festival.

Reliving the Wild West – RV Life – September, 2009
Tiny Pioche, Nevada, was the wildest of the west’s wild towns, with the most murders and one really tough jail.

Where Animals Find Friends – RV Life – August, 2009
We visit the unique Best Friends Animal Sanctuary near Kanab, Utah, a beautiful & extremely well-funded sanctuary.

Land of Goblins – Escapees Magazine – September/October, 2008
Goblin Valley is a fantastic Utah state park full of red rock hoodoos. Nearby is an easy & exciting slot canyon hike.

RV and CRUISING “HOW TO” ARTICLES

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Photography Tips – Family RVing Magazine, Nov/Dec 2024
Photography goes hand-in-hand with RV travel. Here are a few tips to help you take more engaging photos.

Reese Goose Box 5th Wheel Hitch – Escapees Magazine, July/August 2024
The Reese Goose Box is a game changer for towing a fifth wheel trailer: easy hitching, not hard to install and ultra smooth towing!

Demco Recon 21k 5th Wheel Hitch – RV Magazine, March 2023
This unusual hitch mounts on a gooseball in the truck bed, making it easy to install and remove, plus it’s truck brand independent.

Cargo Buckles – Escapees, Jan/Feb 2023
Cargo Buckle retractable ratchet straps are a game changer and time saver for tying down heavy items in a toy hauler or flat bed trailer.

Torklift Camper Tie-Downs and FastGuns – RV Magazine, January 2022
The Torklift Camper Tie-Downs are the best in the industry and the companion FastGuns make securing your truck camper a breeze

RV Awning Fabric Repair – RV Magazine, April 2021
RV awnings are ungainly and awkward and we found a few tricks for replacing the awning fabric.

Organizing and Defrosting a small RV Refrigerator – RV Magazine, March 2021
Here are some tips to make it easy to organize an RV fridge and defrost it quickly and painlessly

Portable Power – Honda EU2200i Generator – Escapees Magazine, Jul/Aug 2019
Honda’s new EU2200i portable generator packs a lot of punch into an easy-to-carry package.

How to Repair a manual RV Awning – Escapees Magazine, September/October 2019
Our manual awning suffered catastrophic UV damage from a life in the sun. Here’s an outline of what the repair entailed.

Shopping for a Toyhauler – Trailer Life Magazine, September 2019
There are a lot of things to consider when shopping for a toy hauler. Here are some tips to keep in mind.

Amp’d Up Throttle Booster – Escapees Magazine, May/Jun 2019
The “Amp’d Up” throttle booster from Edge Products fixes the “deal pedal” syndrome when towing.

MORryde SRE4000 Trailer Suspension Upgrade – Escapees Magazine, Jul/Aug 2018
Installing the MORryde SRE4000 equalizer on your trailer smooths out the ride and saves your dishes!.

Portable Generator Maintenance – Trailer Life Magazine, April 2018
Avid boondockers and casual dry campers need to keep their generators in good shape. Here are some tips.

Step-by-step installation of the B&W OEM Companion Hitch – Trailer Life Magazine, April, 2017
Truck manufacturers now provide “puck” systems for easy DIY installation of fifth wheel hitches. Here’s the B&W “puck” Hitch.

Cruising on Solar Power – Cruising World Magazine, February, 2017
How to design and install a solar power system on a sailboat that is robust enough for anchoring out all the time.

Power Inverters – Escapees Magazine, Sep/Oct 2016
Power inverters make it possible to run AC appliances on DC batteries when dry camping. Here’s the low down.

One Ton Trucks – Buying a Truck for Heavy Duty Towing – Trailer Life Magazine, July, 2016
What to look for when buying a heavy duty pickup truck to tow a big fifth wheel trailer.

Diesel Engine Tuners – Escapees Magazine, Mar/Apr 2016
Diesel engine tuners truly put the driver in the driver’s seat of the truck! Here’s a look at how they work.

RV Batteries: The Heart of the RV Power Plant – Escapees Magazine, Jan/Feb 2016
Hints for what to look for in RV house batteries (wet cell vs. AGM) and how best to wire them.

RV Solar Power: The Installation Process – Escapees Magazine, Nov/Dec 2015
Tips and tricks for installing solar panels on an RV roof and a solar charge controller in teh basement.

Winterizing Your Screen Door – Trailer Life Magazine, November, 2015
If you are planning on winter camping in your trailer, here’s an easy way to let the sun in and keep the cold out!

Hydraulic Disc Brake Conversion – Escapees Magazine, Jul/Aug, 2015
Upgrading a trailer’s brake system to electric over hydraulic disc brakes makes a radical difference in driving comfort and safety!

RV Solar Power Basics – Escapees Magazine, May/Jun, 2015
RV Solar Power is demystified with an easy-to-understand review of the basic components in a solar power installation.

Making Weight – How Heavy is Your Rig? – Escapees Magazine – Mar/Apr, 2015
Weighing your rig is an important safety measure, and the Smart-Weigh program makes it easy to do.

Installation of a High-Capacity Watermaker – Cruising World Magazine, February, 2015
A step-by-step description of the installation of the lifeblood of our cruise: a 60-gallon-per-hour engine-driven watermaker.

Installation of a Vent-Free Propane Heater – Escapees Magazine, Nov/Dec 2014
A step-by-step guide to selecting and installing a vent-free propane heater in an RV.

Keep It Clean – Tips for RV Sanitation Systems – Motorhome Magazine, July, 2014
Good Sam Club loved our article in Trailer Life so much (next listing) that they published it in MotorHome too!!

Keep It Clean – Tips for RV Sanitation Systems – Trailer Life, May, 2014
Tips and tricks for maintaining an RV’s holding tanks and recommended procedures for doing the dirty deed at the RV dump station.

Keeping Your RV Roof in Tip-Top Shape! – Trailer Life, September 2013
RV rubber roofs and fiberglass roofs each require special care to stay in good condition and remain watertight.

Boondocking: The Essential Ingredients – Escapees Magazine – January/February, 2012
Describes the tools and attitude necessary for an independent life of boondocking, or living “off the grid,” in an RV.

Shrink-Wrap Your Screen Door – Escapees Magazine – September/October, 2010
A step-by-step guide to shrink-wrapping your RV’s screen door for wintertime use.

Install Your Own Vent-free Propane Heater – Escapees Magazine – September/October, 2009
Instructions for installing a vent-free propane heater. These heaters are superior to the furnaces installed in most RVs.

Punching Numbers – Escapees Magazine – May/June, 2009
A review of what it costs to go RVing full-time.

Shedding Light on Solar – Escapees Magazine – March/April, 2009
A presentation of the two solar power configurations we have had on our two trailers.

CRUISING DESTINATION ARTICLES

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Cruising Mexico’s Sweet Costalegre – Sailing Magazine, June 2016
In between the more popular anchorages on Mexico’s mainland coast we discovered some gorgeous hidden coves.

Huatulco Mexico – In our Hearts Forever! – Sailing Magazine, February, 2014
The Bays of Huatulco sparkle like jewels on the southern Pacific shores of Mexico and offer the best cruising in Mexico.

A Colorful Christmas in Zihuatanejo – Blue Water Sailing, December, 2012
What could be better than Christmas in colorful, vibrant “Z-town” where the sun is bright and the setting tropical.

Baja “Aha” – Cruising World Magazine, Sep 2012
Our maiden sail down the Pacific coast of Baja from San Diego to Cabo San Lucas was full of beginner’s luck.

Mexico’s Costa Alegre – Blue Water Sailing, Apr 2012
The “Gold Coast” of Mexico is a collection of 10 or so unique and special anchorages on the Pacific coast.

Bewitching Baja – Sailing Magazine, March, 2012
A literary cruise through the Sea of Cortez with flashbacks to John Steinbeck’s hilarious book, Log from the Sea of Cortez

Wild Winds of the West – Sail Magazine, March, 2012
Describes the thrills awaiting charterers in the Sea of Cortez. Editors refer to Groovy as a “charter boat.” What next?

RV LIFESTYLE ARTICLES

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Toy Hauler Living – Escapees Magazine, May/June 2023
What is it like to live in a toy hauler, especially an open box design? The flexibility is fantastic and the patio can’t be beat!

Buddy – A Journey in Spirit – Escapees Magazine, March/April 2023
When our sweet pup ate a lethal dose of rat poison, the emergency hospital vets told us he’d never survive. God gave him a miracle and he recovered 100%.

Living the RV Dream – RV Magazine, August 2021
What are your innermost dreams and what does it take to make your dreams come true?

Keeping Cool in Summer – RV Magazine, July 2021
Summertime RVing is blast but it can get hot too. Here are some tips for beating the heat in your RV.

Is Full-time RVing in your Future? – RV Magazine, June 2021
Full-time RVing is a thrilling life changing adventure. Here are some things to ponder before jumping to this exciting new phase of life.

Travel Photography – Trailer Life Magazine, June 2019
Here are a few tips for RVers to make their travel photos come alive.

Fifth Wheel Toyhaulers – Trailer Life Magazine, Mar 2019
A sampling of 5th wheel toy haulers on the market with pros/cons of each!

RVing and Bicycling – Match Made in Heaven! – Trailer Life Magazine, February 2019
Bicycling is a great activity for RVers. Here are some tips and favorite cycling destinations.

Full-time RVing – Trailer Life Magazine, July 2018
We offer readers our tips and insights into the full-time RV lifestyle.

Reflections: Lessons Learned in the Full-time RV Lifestyle – Escapees, May 2018
On our 11th anniversary of full-time travel we look back at what we’ve learned along the way.

First-Timer Fifth Wheels – Trailer Life Magazine, May 2018
Here’s a look at a dozen great “first-timer” fifth wheels that are under $50k and shorter than 32′.

Stay Cozy Warm While RVing in Cold Weather – Escapees Magazine, January/February 2018
Here are some survival tips to help you make it through a cold winter season in your RV!

Full-timer Fifth Wheel Trailers – Trailer Life Magazine, October 2017
A review of twelve new fifth wheel trailer models suitable for full-time living.

Visiting the Dentist in Mexico – Escapees Magazine, November/December 2016
Mexican dentists do top quality work at rock bottom prices. Here are our personal experiences that have kept us smiling for 8 years.

An Interview with Kay Peterson – Escapees Magazine, Jul/Aug 2016
Kay Peterson and her husband Joe founded the unique Escapees RV Club. Her story is a thrill and an inspiration.

Leasing Your House To Go Full-time RVing – Escapees Magazine, May/Jun 2016
Most folks sell their house before they go full-time, but we leased ours and have been oh-so-happy that we did!

What is it Like to RV Full-time? – At Home on the Road – Motorhome Magazine, January, 2016
RVing full-time sounds like a dream, but the transition can be overwhelming. Here are some tips for how to get from here to there!

Getting The Most From Your Travel Photography – Escapees Magazine, Sep/Oct, 2015
What makes a great photo? Here’s some hints and tips for putting some zing in your travel photography?

Stay the Course – Escapees Magazine, Jan/Feb 2015
Inspiration for future full-timers who are overwhelmed by the challenges of starting a new and exotic life on the road.

A Full-time RVer’s Metamorphosis – Escapees Magazine, Sep/Oct 2014
An interview with two special Escapees members who have lived and worked in their RV full-time for 26 years.

Taking Your RV into the Mountains– Escapees Magazine, July/August 2013
Some hints and tips for taking a big rig into the mountains.

Pacing Your RV Travels – Escapees Magazine, May/June 2013
Finding a theme to guide your travels, and moving along at the right pace, keeps full-time travel exciting.

First Timer’s Guide to Mexico – Latitude 38 (Baja Ha-Ha Cruiser’s Rally) – September, 2012
A cruising guide full of tips for cruisers making their first voyage to Mexico: weather, navigation, provisioning, internet access, etc.

Life Afloat and On the Road – Escapees Magazine – September/October, 2012
Part II – What’s similar and what’s different about boondocking in an RV in the US versus anchoring out in a sailboat in Mexico?

RVing by Land and by Sea – Escapees Magazine – July/August, 2012
Part I – Written at the request of Escapees Magazine, this is a comparison of the full-time RVing and cruising lifestyles.

Leasing Your House – Escapees Magazine – May/June, 2012
A summary of the things we’ve learned to help us be both happy and profitable landlords.

Heart of a Dream – Escapees Magazine – January/February, 2011
An exploration of what this business of “Living the Dream” is all about and what its origins were for us.

A Mexican Crown – Escapee Magazine – January/February, 2010
We go south of the border from Yuma, AZ so Mark can get a new crown from a terrific Mexican dentist.

TRAILER LIFE COLUMN – “ROADS TO ADVENTURE”

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Every other month between January 2017 and November 2020 we authored the back page column in Trailer Life Magazine called “Roads to Adventure.” This column focused on special RV destinations and featured a beautiful (and enticing!) photo.

Trailer Life Column: Sedona Red Rocks – Trailer Life Magazine, November 2020
Hiking among and between Sedona Arizona’s red rocks can’t be beat. When a storm darkens the sky it gets even better!

Trailer Life Column: Mackinac Bridge – Trailer Life Magazine, Sep 2020
The gateway to Michigan’s Upper Peninsula, this historic bridge lights up at night

Trailer Life Column: The Giants of Montana – Trailer Life Magazine, July 2020
The mammoth and ancient Ross Creek cedar trees are awe-inspiring to walk among and climb into.

Trailer Life Column: Mabry Mill on the Blue Ridge Parkway – Trailer Life, May, 2020
An old grist mill in Virginia offers a hands-on glimpse into America’s and Appalachia’s past

Trailer Life Column: Cedar Breaks National Monument – Trailer Life Magazine, March 2020
One of the lesser known National Parks in Utah, Cedar Breaks is a red rock wonderland!

Trailer Life Column: New Mexico’s White Sands National Monument – Trailer Life Magazine, January, 2020
How about sledding on a gypsum sand dune? White Sands is a playground for all ages!

Trailer Life Column: Glacier National Park in Montana – Trailer Life Magazine, May 2019
Towering snowcapped mountains and glassy alpine lakes make Glacier NP a treasured wonderland.

Trailer Life Column: Colorado’s Maroon Bells – Trailer Life Magazine, March 2019
We found beauty and romance at sunrise in gorgeous Maroon Bells.

Trailer Life Column: Florida Panhandle – Trailer Life Magazine, January 2019
Turquoise water and white sand beaches make the Florida Panhandle a stunning destination.

Trailer Life Column: Icefields Parkway in Canada – Trailer Life Magazine, November 2018
The Icefields Parkway between Banff and Jasper National Parks is out of this world!

Trailer Life Column: Autumn in Zion National Park – Trailer Life Magazine, September 2018
Zion National Park is known for its towering cliffs, but the fall foliage fills the canyon with vibrant color.

Trailer Life Column: 4th of July in Custer, South Dakota – Trailer Life Magazine, July 2018
Custer, South Dakota, is a small town with a big heart, and their 4th of July celebration is top notch.

Trailer Life Column: Rockport Massachusetts – Trailer Life Magazine, May 2018
Rockport, Massachusetts, is a cute seaside town whose history dates to the Revolution.

Trailer Life Column: Bandelier National Monument in New Mexico – Trailer Life Magazine, March 2018
At Bandelier National Monument we discovered quintessential cliff dwellings complete with ladders to the entrances.

Trailer Life Column: Petrified Forest National Park, Arizona – Trailer Life Magazine, January 2018
We found Petrified Forest National Park’s hidden jewels at Jasper Forest and Blue Mesa Trail.

Trailer Life Column: Moraine Lake, Alberta, Canada – Trailer Life Magazine, November, 2017
Deep in the Canadian Rockies, Moraine Lake is a vibrant turquoise lake tucked between snowcapped mountain peaks.

Trailer Life Column: San Juan Skyway, Colorado – Trailer Life Magazine, September, 2017
The San Juan Skyway loops through SW Colorado, and erupts in a fiery display of color during fall foliage season!

Trailer Life Column: McCall, Idaho – Trailer Life Magazine, July, 2017
McCall, Idaho, is a little known bona-fide beach town high up in the Rocky Mountains!

Trailer Life Column: Watkins Glen, New York – Trailer Life Magazine, May, 2017
Watkins Glen is a fabulous gorge, and a visit in the rain reveals a jaw-dropping waterfall.

Trailer Life Column: Bryce Canyon at Night – Trailer Life Magazine, March, 2017
Bryce Canyon is stunning by day, but at midnight the canyon is spanned by the Milky Way!

Trailer Life Column: Horseshoe Bend Arizona – Trailer Life Magazine, January, 2017
Horseshoe Bend in Page, Arizona, is a breathtaking overlook high above the Colorado River.

PHOTOGRAPHY ARTICLES

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Grand Canyon Wildflower Image — Landscape Magazine, August 2023
Mark describes a special encounter with a beautiful wildflower in Kaibab National Forest.

Travel Photography – Trailer Life Magazine, June 2019
Here are a few tips for making travel photos come alive.

Getting The Most From Your Travel Photography – Escapees Magazine, Sep/Oct, 2015
What makes a great photo? Hints and tips for putting some zing in your travel photography

PROFILES ABOUT US

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“Mark and Emily” YouTube Video (5+ minutes) — Camping World, March 2018
Camping World’s pro video crew spent 3 days with us creating this inspiring video (our blog post about the video shoot is here)

Mexico’s Natural Attractions — JetLine Cruise, APRIL 2018
JetLine Cruise interviewed us about visiting La Bufadora in Ensenada (our blog post about La Bufadora is here)

Podcast Interview (46 minutes) — Keep Your Daydream, June 2015
Keep Your Daydream adventure travel podcast interviewed us to learn how we launched our travel dream and how we keep it going.

Quitting Life to Hit the Road in an RV — Yahoo Travel, February 2015
Yahoo Travel feature story about us and other RVers who left convention behind to live in an RV full-time.

Blog Review of Roads Less Traveled – Belinda Hughes Writing and Travel Blog, July, 2014
Writer, blogger and future RVer gave this blog a glowing review in her debut post in a series of blog reviews.

Sailing Groovy on Kyocera Solar Power – Kyocera Solar Power Website, June, 2013
Solar panel manufacturer Kyocera Solar featured our sailboat Groovy‘s solar power installation on their website.

Solar Power Installation on Sailboat “Groovy” – Clean Technica, May, 2013
CleanTechnica featured a story about our marine solar power installation aboard our sailboat Groovy.

Solar Sailboat Shows How “Groovy” Off-Grid Life Can Be – EarthTechling, May, 2013
EarthTechling featured a story about our off-the-grid lifestyle, powered by solar, aboard our sailboat Groovy.

Fun with the Fagans – Highways Magazine – April/May, 2012
The good folks at Good Sam Club published a brief story about our unusual land and sea traveling lifestyle.

Changes in Latitude – Latitude 38 Magazine – March, 2012
The West Coast’s most popular sailing magazine checked in with us in Acapulco, Mexico

RVing Magazine Links

Coast-to-Coast Magazine
This is the membership magazine for the Coast Resorts RVing organization. Coast Resorts is a network of upscale RV parks that are available to members at a discounted price, and the magazine covers a full range of RVing topics for its members.

Escapees Magazine
This is the membership magazine for the Escapees RV Club, a club focused on the RV lifestyle, especially for long-term and full-time travelers. Articles cover topics that are unique to living in an RV for an extended period of time as well as destinations that are worthy of a stop.

Highways Magazine
This was the official magazine for the Good Sam Club and ceased publication in 2014. It was chock full of RV tech tips, previews of upcoming Good Sam events, RV equipment reviews and RV destination recommendations.

MotorHome Magazine
This magazine was first published in 1968 and was later purchased by Good Sam Club. It was dedicated to driveable RVs, that is, Class A’s, B’s and C’s, and was filled with motorhome tech tips and great RV destination stories. It was incorporated into RV Magazine in January 2021.

RV Journal
This excellent free magazine used to be found in Camping World, RV parks and other RV-related places of business in the western states. It focused on happenings in the West that could inspire an RVing voyage to a particular destination, from musical events to festivals to country fairs. Unfortunately, it is no longer in print.

RV Life Magazine
This wonderful, over-sized magazine was one of the oldest regional RV magazines. It included excellent destination articles and interesting news pieces about the RV industry. The name and brand were sold to new owners.

RV Magazine
Trailer Life Magazine and Motorhome Magazine merged to become RV Magazine in January 2021. This new magazine covered topics for all RVs rather than specializing in one type or another. RV Magazine ceased publication in December 2023.

Trailer Life Magazine
Part of the Good Sam family, this magazine was dedicated to towable RVs, and had tips for both tow vehicles (trucks) and trailers as well as the hitches that go in between. The destination stories also offered inspiring ideas for the bucket list. First published in 1941, it was incorporated into RV Magazine in January 2021.

Cruising Magazine Links

Blue Water Sailing Magazine
Started in 1997, this delightful cruising-specific magazine is written by cruisers for cruisers with an emphasis on taking your own boat to exotic destinations.

Cruising World Magazine
This classic American sailing magazine has been spawning cruising dreams for decades. Articles are split evenly between stories about all aspects of living aboard and cruising and stories about chartering both domestically and in foreign waters. Cruising World is available in a Kindle edition as well, including iPad, iPod, iPhone and Android platforms.

Latitude 38
The west coast’s most popular sailing magazine is known for its lively letters to the editor and for keeping tabs on west coast cruisers all over the world. The tone is fun, a bit sassy and sometimes irreverent, but the information is invaluable for cruisers, especially those heading to Mexico.

Sail Magazine
A widely read magazine that covers all aspects of sailing from tips and tricks for beginners to hot charter destinations to technical discussions of boat systems to world cruising explorations by sailboat. From old salt to beginning sailor, there is something in this magazine for everyone.

Sailing Magazine
This is an over-sized and beautiful glossy magazine that prides itself on fine writing and dramatic photography. Founded in 1966, I remember issues of this magazine lying on our coffee table when I was a child, fueling my father’s dreams of a circumnavigation (which, sadly, never came to pass).

La Tia Hot Sauce – The best among millions!

Posted on March 6, 2013 by Roads Less Traveled

March 6, 2013 – One of our favorite things in Manzanillo is locally made La Tia hot sauce.

We found it!!

We aren’t spicy food eaters, but this stuff is good!

We first discovered it two years ago at Frida’s restaurant on the marina docks in Las Hadas. It was made nearby by the family of restaurant owner AgustIn. But this year Frida’s (and Agustín) are no longer there. And our three one-liter bottles we bought last year were gone!

Bottle label in hand, we went on a scavenger hunt around the shops in Santiago. But all we got from everyone was a head shake and a “No lo tengo” (I don’t have it). Finally we rounded a corner – and Mark spotted it on a shelf! The vendor was shocked when we bought three one-liter bottles, but she said she loves the sauce too and that’s why she carries it!!

Ahh… mission accomplished… yummy bean burritos are on the menu aboard Groovy once again!

See all our “snapshot” posts and/or our most recent posts

Pátzcuaro – A “Magical City” with a colorful outdoor market

Posted on March 5, 2013 by Roads Less Traveled

Patzcuaro Mexico sailing blog Hotel Chaluma

Our cute little bungalo on the edge of Pátzcuaro

Mid-February, 2013 – After our very full day of hiking among the monarch butterflies in the mountains near Morelia, we drove with our friends Joe and Nancy to Pátzcuaro, one of Mexico’s “Magical Cities.” These cities have been designated by Mexico’s tourism board as being particularly charming and fun to visit, and we were not disappointed.

We found a cute place to stay outside of town, Hotel Chaluma, which is made up of a row of small cottages. But for just 350 pesos ($29 USD) per night, it didn’t come with any heat. There was a fireplace in our room, but no wood. The proprietor told us wood was available for sale from a neighbor, but we never managed to make contact with him. So we shivered in the brisk morning mountain air and laughed when we could see our breath.

Patzcuaro Mexico cruising blog hotel courtyard

Fancier digs in town.

There are finer places in town, and we peeked in the courtyard of one that had a very elegant ambiance.

Patazuaro Michoacan hotel living aboard blog

For an authentic old-time atmosphere, stay here!

You can also stay in more rustic hotels in the old historic buildings that are lined up in and around the town square.

Patzcuaro Mexico library mural living aboard blog

This mural on the back of the library depicts the Mexican state of Michoacán’s history.

We wandered into an old stone church that now houses a big public library. At the back of the room was a huge, colorful mural. There were images of ancient pyramids and Spanish soldiers in plated armor carrying spears on horseback. There were vivid images of priests and ancient indigenous manuscripts being burned in bonfires. People on their knees were enslaved in chains. We found out that this mural depicts the history of Mexico’s state of Michoacán.

One of several picturesque churches in town.

There are several old stone churches around town, and peering down a street we were drawn to one at the far end.

Patzcuaro Mexico market garlic seller sailing blog

Garlic for sale (just remember in Spanish it’s called “ajo”)

A woman heads to the market.

As we approached, we saw lots of people milling around in front of the church, setting up blankets and tarps to sell produce and homemade food items.

It was Friday, and we discovered that Friday is market day when all the people from the surrounding villages and towns bring their goods to sell on the streets of Pátzcuaro.

We were fascinated by the hubbub. Everyone was busy, either hauling stuff into the market in handcarts or wheelbarrows, or shopping and filling their baskets with items to take home.

The air was festive and the place was hopping.

All kinds of dried beans for sale…

We have been to many a “mercado público,” or public market, in Mexico, but this one was different. Being inland and situated near farm country rather than near the touristy coast, the quality of the produce was fantastic and the prices were low.

Patzcuaro Mexico indian market wheelbarrow sailing blog

Bringing stuff to market!

Patzcuaro Mexico indian market cruising blog

This was a busy market…

All the fruits and veggies were plump and ripe and uninjured. Handwritten signs advertised 10 pesos for 2 kilos of avocados (about 36 cents a pound). Same price for oranges. Dried beans were 16 pesos a kilo (about 60 cents a pound).

This weekly market is known as the “Indian Market” because so many of the people bringing their wares to town are indigenous people from the rural countryside.

Patzcuaro Mexico mercado fruit cups sailing blog

Colorful plastic fruit cups with Starbucks style tops!

Some of the vendors laughed and pointed at us as we passed. We were the only gringos there.

The exotic air of this market was wonderful, and we couldn’t help but snap a zillion photos of the people around us. We heard snippets of conversation about “fotos” and “fotografos” (photographers), and some vendors made funny faces and posed or gave us a thumbs up. Our own foreign oddness seemed to add to the jovial chaos around us.

The women wore colorful, pleated, lace-trimmed skirts and shawls

Lots of men wore hats and everyone bundled up because it was cold!!

The women all wore colorful calf-length skirts, often decorated with lace, and frequently pleated thickly in the back. Most of them had shawls of one kind or another too (it was cold!).

Some shawls were a simple rectangular scarf or wrap, but others had a collar and were shaped to drape over the shoulders with a clasping system to keep it all together.

We wandered among the throng, admiring the beautiful veggies and fruits, and wondering what some of them were.

People presented their goods for sale anywhere they could find space.

Lots of folks were selling homemade food items, including cooked tiny fish from the nearby lakes. There were hot sauces and diced fruits and veggies in plastic cups that looked like colorful frappuccinos.

Patzcuaro farmers market woman cruising blog

A woman lays out pails of small fish, both cooked and raw, from the nearby lakes.

Patzcuaro indian market eggs cruising blog

What type of bird laid these eggs??

One big box had dozens of tiny speckled eggs in it. We weren’t sure what kind of bird produced the eggs, or how the eggs were used. Ordinary chicken eggs were for sale too, and as is often the case at Mexican markets, you could buy the eggs individually in a plastic bag. So if you wanted only 7 eggs, that’s all you had to buy. Just be careful with that baggie on your way home!

Patzcuaro Mexico indian market woman living

There was something warm and friendly and inviting about this market

Patzcuaro Mexico market woman living aboard blog

The old ladies especially seemed to enjoy simply taking it all in.

At the far end of the market we found a lady selling gorgeous cactus flowers and irises. Each was unique in shape and color. They were similar to the “Christmas cactus” we see north of the border, but she had so many more varieties, and the flowers seemed much bigger.

Joe and Nancy bought two flowers with instructions from the vendor that if they put them in the ground in Ixtapa they would grow. No need for rooting them first in water. We’ll keep our fingers crossed, because those cactus flowers would make a spectacular addition to any garden.

There is more to see in Pátzcuaro, and there are intriguing other towns in the area, but our beloved sailboat Groovy was calling us home.

Patzcuaro Mexico cactus flowers sailing blog

Colorful cactus flowers.

We had left the boat at anchor in Zihuatanejo for four days, and we needed to make sure our home hadn’t drifted out to sea.

Michoacan Mexico steel bridge cruising blog

The brightly painted steel bridges turned golden in the afternoon sun.

We descend from the mountains towards the lakes.

We’ll be back to see more of Morelia and Michoacán.

We retraced our route back down to the seashore, passing the lovely serene lakes and golden hued bridges followed by the thick cactus stands along the desert.

This part of Mexico had enchanted us, and our only regret was that our trip inland had been so short. With any luck we’ll get back to this area again someday and be able to spend more time enjoying all it has to offer.

But for now, Groovy welcomed us home without any hint that we’d ever left, and we resumed our floating life in Zihuatanejo Bay.

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Monarch Butterfly Migration at El Rosario – A Fabulous Daytrip!!

Posted on March 2, 2013 by Roads Less Traveled

Contepec street sign Morelia Mexico sail blog

Not so easy to say these names!

Mid-February, 2013 – After our whirlwind tour of beautiful Morelia, we piled into the car with our friends Joe and Nancy and headed even further into the mountains to see the phenomenal throngs of butterflies that migrate there each winter. We were getting off into the hinterlands now, and the road narrowed dramatically and began to climb even more steeply, easily reaching 15% to 20% grades at times, while the town names quickly became very hard to pronounce.

“Topes”

The thing that sets Mexican roads apart from roads elsewhere is the plethora of speed bumps, or “topes” (pronounced “toe-pays”). This is a very effective way to slow drivers down without having to post patrol cars and radar everywhere, but it sure makes for some hair-raising driving. The speed bumps are very steep, usually they are unpainted, and they are only occasionally marked with a sign. So you don’t know if a speed bump is there until you hit it and go flying.

We spot a centuries old church in the distance.

A two hour drive in the Mexican countryside can quickly become a torturous “all eyes on deck” pavement scan while you wait for the inevitable jolt accompanied by the sound of scraping metal as the underbody of the car loses yet another layer of skin to the road.

Tlalpujahua Sr Monte statue Mexico cruising blog

Tlalpujahua was having a special festival.

Tlalpujahua Sr Monte fiesta Mexico sailing blog

There was lots of music…

However, the little towns we passed through were intriguing. One boasted a beautiful church we saw from the distance, and when we got there we discovered a huge festival was in full swing.

Tlalpujahua Sr Monte fiesta Mexico sail blog

Dancing…

A fellow told me the town was called “Tlalpujahua,” which is pronounced (“Tlal-poo-hah-wah”) and it was once a gold mining town and has churches dating to the 1500’s. Along with a huge outdoor market that lined the main street, they were celebrating the Day of Señor Jesús del Monte.

What luck!! Kids were dressed up in fantastic costumes, and they paraded in the streets and climbed the steep path to the church where they danced and sang and made music.

Tlalpujahua Sr Monte fiesta Mexico cruising blog

All the kids in town helped celebrate.

Great costumes.

It was a colorful celebration, and every kid in town seemed to be a part of it.

Tlalpujahua Sr Monte fiesta Mexico living aboard blog

These machetes were real!

My favorite was the line-up of youngsters that were reenacting a sword fight, clashing their (real and sharp) machetes together while doing some dance steps and singing.

We wandered around town, fascinated by what was going on but not understanding what it was really all about. There was so much music and noise and hand clapping going on that we couldn’t have heard an explanation even if someone had been willing to try and give us one.

Kansas City Southern.

We jumped back in the car and continued our journey higher into the mountains. A very long freight train labeled “Kansas City Southern” went past pulling an endless stream of cattle cars that bore the same name on the side. We couldn’t tell if the cars were empty or full, but if they held cattle coming from or going to Kansas, those animals had a lot of miles under their hooves.

This is farm country.

We passed old style haystacks and horses in pastures, and eventually we made it to El Rosario Butterfly Sanctuary.

Horse grazing Michoacan Mexico living aboard blog

Horses were grazing in the fields.

We hadn’t had any idea what to expect, and we were surprised to be greeted with several stages of fees: parking fee first, entrance fee second, and then the mandatory hiring of a guide to take us into the woods.

El Rasario Monarch butterflies Michoacan Mexico sailing blog

Joe opted to catch a ride.

We are experienced hikers, and we couldn’t imagine it would be all that hard to find the butterflies. But when we protested against taking a guide, we learned that viewing the butterflies is an eco-tourism tour that helps sustain the people in this area.

The sanctuary provides a job base for the locals and, on that note, a guide — who was paid only tips — seemed like a fine idea.

The hike is an uphill, hour-long jaunt through the forest, and the locals provide rides on “caballitos” (little horses) for those who don’t want to walk. These cute little horses are just about my height, and I thought it was neat to be able to look a horse right in the eye.

El Rasario Monarch butterflies Michoacan Mexico sail blog

The guides hoped we’d catch a ride too.

Joe opted to go on horseback, and he and his guide set off into the woods. Mark ran behind them, getting quite a vigorous (and dusty) workout in the process.

Nancy and I were directed to the walking trail, which is a different trail than the horses follow. The horse guides are shrewd businessmen, and they know that lots of people will change their minds about the $150 peso ($12 USD) fee for a round trip horseback ride once they’ve hiked a little ways up on the steep trail.

Wonderful woodsy trail into the forest.

So a collection of horses and guides accompanied us for quite a while, patiently waiting for us to ask for a ride. Eventually Nancy saw the wisdom of arriving at the butterfly site rested, so she selected a horse and vanished into the woods after Joe and Mark, and that left me and my guide alone on foot on the walking trail.

My guide, Berenice, was 14 years old and a sophomore in high school. She lived in a town nearby and she said she guided two tours a day when she wasn’t in school. Today was a weekday but it was a school holiday, so she was out on the trail. She didn’t speak any English and she was very shy.

El Rasario Monarch butterflies Michoacan Mexico sailing blog 260

Butterflies filled the air like leaves.

The path wound higher and higher. We were now at 10,000′ elevation (3,000 meters), and although I didn’t need my jacket, I knew if I stopped hiking I’d get chilled. We had heard reports of people getting snowed on during these wintertime butterfly excursions.

The woods were very similar to the woods in northern Arizona: full of evergreens and with a fine, grey dust underfoot. We stopped to take in a few views of the valley below, and as I scanned the horizon I saw brief flash of orange go by. Then I saw another and another. They were here… the monarchs!

El Rasario Monarch butterflies Morelia Mexico living aboard blog

The pine trees seemed to have orange blossoms.

“There’s more up ahead,” Berenice told me. And sure enough, more and more of them floated by us until we turned a corner and saw literally thousands filling the air.

El Rasario Monarch butterflies Morelia Mexico sail blog

They loved these flowers…!

The monarchs let us in close.

El Rasario Monarch butterflies Morelia Mexico sailing blog

Joe holds one up.

They clung to the pine branches so thickly that the pine trees seemed to be in bloom. The air was so full of orange butterflies it was as though there were an autumn breeze blowing tiny leaves around.

El Rasario Monarch butterflies Morelia Mexico cruising blog

These hardy souls are incredibly frail.

Mark and Joe and Nancy had already arrived at the spot when we got there, and they were playing with some of the butterflies.

Joe held out a flower and coaxed a butterfly onto it, and then held it up so we all could see. What a miraculous little animal.

El Rasario Monarch butterfliies Morelia Mexico sailing blog

So delicate…

Looking at them closely, although many were in fine shape, we noticed that many of them had faded and tattered wings, and they looked tired. There’s little wonder, as their north-south migration route is 3,000 miles between southern Mexico and the US and Canada.

All that orange mossy stuf is butterflies.

The butterflies have three different routes into the northern US states after they cross the border a little west of Brownsville, Texas.

Usually we feel lucky to see one butterfly, but here they numbered in the millions…

Some head northwest, some due north, and some northeast. Unlike birds that migrate long distances, though, individual monarchs don’t live long enough to travel the full migration path.

Wildflowers Morelia Mexico cruising blog

A little different than the tropics!!

Busily courting and mating here in the mountains of Michoacán, these monarchs will fly north in the spring to produce the next generation in the southern parts of the US.

Lupine flower Morelia Mexico cruising blog

Familiar mountain flowers.

The butterfly lifecycle of pupa to caterpillar to butterfly will take place, and then somehow the young butterflies will all know to continue the flight north that their parents had started.

Then the cycle begins again in one of the most complex animal migrations on the planet.

How do these delicate little guys do it? Tiny butterfly corpses were scattered all over the ground, with pieces of wings and bodies strewn among the leaves and flower petals, ready to decompose at the blink of an eye. These creatures are frail! Yet they doggedly get their species across 3,000 miles of treacherous ground twice a year.

Commuting on horseback is common here.

We wandered among the butterfly laden trees for quite a while, enjoying this miracle that science can’t yet fully explain.

As we hiked back down the mountain path, we passed familiar wildflowers we see in the summers up north: lupine, penstemon and others. This had been a beautiful day in the woods, and Mark, a man who comes alive among the mountain pines, was completely in his element.

We made our way back to Morelia through small mountain towns where riders commuting on horseback are a common sight. After collapsing into bed, the next day we topped off our excursion into Mexico’s interior with a brief stop at the colorful town of Pátzcuaro.

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Cruising = Fixing your boat in exotic places!

Posted on March 2, 2013 by Roads Less Traveled

March 2, 2013 – Outboard engines these days are equipped with a fail-safe mechanism for when you accidentally hit something while the prop is spinning. A little rubber hub inside the prop rips, saving the prop and engine from self-destructing, but disabling the prop from ever turning at full speed again. Suzukis are especially sensitive. Sigh. Mark fixed the problem by drilling 3 holes in the prop to affix it to its mount permanently. But the screws sheered. Double sigh!! So in Zihuatanejo we went in search of a welder.

Getting our outboard prop fixed in Zihuatanejo

Our prop gets 3 big holes in it

Local folks pointed us in all kinds of directions with great recommendations for this guy or that, but in the end our cabbie chose our guy, since he’d never heard of any of the welders on our list. He drove us way out of town, dropped us off in front of a shop and vanished.

There we were, prop in hand, standing in front of a row of mechanic shops, in the middle of nowhere.

Part of cruising Mexico is learning to describe mechanical problems in Spanish. Not easy! But some sign language, lots of turning the prop in our hands and pointing, a few trips up and down the row of shops — all accompanied by our halting Spanish and their halting English — finally got us to the right guy in the right shop. But did he really understand what we were talking about??

The prop was placed in a vice and the drill came out. Suddenly a second guy showed up and a shower of Spanish ensued. Mark was whisked away in a car to a Tornillería (a screw store) a few miles away. “Cruising” means going with the flow and having infinite faith that all will work out.

Twenty minutes later, after the shy, young mechanic and I had exhausted the limits of my Spanish conversational skills while we perched on his bench, Mark returned with three enormous stainless steel hex-head set screws — hopefully impervious to sheering. The holes were tapped, the screws installed, and the repair was completed for 200 pesos ($16 USD). The work was superior.

One of the unique things about this cruising life is that rather than being mere sightseeing tourists, we usually go to town with a purpose and a mission. Having faith and allowing fate to take us by the hand and lead us to our destiny (and destination) has been one of the great lessons we have learned.

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Other blog posts that give a glimpse of what it’s like to live on a sailboat:

Life on the Hook in Mexico – What do you do all day when you’re cruising in the tropics? 11/17/14
Oh, That’s Just Swell! – Life on a Boat that ROLLS At Anchor!! 05/17/13
Snap, Crackle, Pop – Fishy Sounds from Deep Under Our Boat! 04/17/13
The Tourist Tangle – All tied up in knots! 04/09/13
And God said: “Let the Beer Flow” 03/30/13
Showering on the hook = A carnival ride with your eyes closed! 03/28/13
Surfing the dinghy = Crash landings on the beach! 03/18/13
Swabbing the decks underway! 03/16/13
Cruising = Fixing your boat in exotic places! 03/02/13

More funny stories from our Mexico cruise + Tips for planning your own sailing cruise

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La Tia Hot Sauce – The best among millions!

Pátzcuaro – A “Magical City” with a colorful outdoor market

Monarch Butterfly Migration at El Rosario – A Fabulous Daytrip!!

Cruising = Fixing your boat in exotic places!