PV: Paradise Village Marina – A Resort Vacation!

Early April, 2013 – After enjoying the wonderful outdoor market in La Cruz de Huanacaxtle, we took a brief, hour-long sail aboard Groovy to Paradise Village Marina, where we were suddenly surrounded by all the comforts of shore-based living.  And and then some!

paradise village resort

Paradise Village Resort – What a Place!

sunrise at paradise village marina

Sunrise surrounds Groovy in its slip.

After five months of rolling around in small coves and bays, the luxury of Paradise Village Resort was totally over the top for us.

overlooking paradise village resort pools

Paradise Village “Dragon Pool” with the beach and bay beyond.

The marina sits in an estuary, and at sunrise the water is often like glass.  One morning we were blessed with a spectacular sunrise that embraced Groovy.

It felt really strange to be able to walk right off the boat and into a resort.  No mad dash through the surf to land the dinghy, and no salty and sandy feet when climbing back aboard.

The dinghy even began to gather dust in its spot hanging off the transom.

We began to wonder if what we were doing still qualified as “cruising.”

paradise vaillage hot tub crowd

The hot tube is a popular place.

Paradise Village Resort just begged for exploration.  Looking down from a balcony near the top of one of the buildings, we could see the “dragon pool” that has two water slides where squealing kids shoot out of the mouths of dragons.

palm tree and chairs at paradise village beach resort

There are rows of palapa-chairs on the beach by the bar.

Beyond the poolside chairs and palms, we could see the pier that marks the entrance to the marina channel and the beach and bay.

The hot tub looked really inviting from this balcony too, and we discovered that quite a few cruisers spent their evenings there after the sun went down.

Palapa and chairs at Paradise Village

Hey – we’re on vacation (from our vacation)!!

Out on the beach there are rows and rows of lounge chairs sitting under thatched umbrellas.

For a few days we ran around so much,  taking it all in and rejoicing at being able to live at a resort (how did THAT happen?), that we didn’t stop to take advantage of any of it.  We just took a million pictures and said “wow” over and over.

waterfall pool in puerto vallarta

The “Waterfall Pool” at Paradise Village.

 

But then we got down to the business of vacationing, like everyone else around us, and we spent an afternoon hanging out in those wonderfully inviting chairs.  Pretty darn nice!

nuevo vallarta gulls and beach

Gulls on the beach.

snowy egret landing in nuevo vallarta

A snowy egret comes in for a landing.

The other big pool at the Paradise Village beach resort is the “waterfall pool.”  Playing in the spray in this pool was fun, but what really got me excited was the fabulous shower in the spa.  For five months I had been dancing around in a phone booth for my daily shower, but not any longer.

nuevo vallarta beach kid

We just loved watching the kids play on this beach in the mornings.

 

 

 

 

The “ladies room” in the spa isn’t just a row of toilets.  It is a haven for women where all your weariness and cares of the day just melt away.

Beyond all the massage rooms, where the masseuses wear crisp white uniforms and the vacationers kick back in plush robes, there is a candle-lit hot-tub.

puerto vallarta kids playing on beach

Treasure hunting on the beach.

This darkened tub is surrounded by cushioned lounge chairs and glass vases filled with water and floating flower petals.  The air is thick and moist and sooo relaxing.  Oh my.

When I walked in, gentle, soothing, new age flute music wafted softly through the warm mist, and no one was there.  I submerged myself in the luxurious hot water and basked in that bubbling tub for what seemed like hours.

Once I was sufficiently relaxed, I contorting myself into all kinds of crazy positions in front of the jets to massage all my sore spots and bruises from the boating life.  Pure heaven!  Then I moved on to the immense shower.  Sigh.

 

sea kayak in waves

The tour boat operators struggled to get their boats off the beach sometimes.

The shower was made of fancy stone tile and was very spacious.  Three big dispensers were filled with sweetly scented, high quality shampoo, conditioner and body wash.  None of that one-bottle-does-it-all stuff here.

And the hot water just ran and ran and ran.  I emerged a long time later, quite pink and very wrinkled.

I was so excited about all this that after gushing about it to Mark for a while (he rolled his eyes a bit), I started going on and on about it to a neighbor down on the docks.

shipwreck on the beach puerto vallarta

A unique wooden cruising boat was beached in front of the resort.

She laughed as she listened to me and then informed me rather bluntly that we cruisers weren’t supposed to use the spa.  It was only for the highest paying resort guests.  Oh, man!  Really?!  I had been ready to move right in and stay forever.

One day, “Flying Dragon,” a very unusual wooden cruising boat, ran into trouble and grounded hard on the beach. All the cruisers from the marina ran down to the beach to see what was going on and try to help out.

shipwreck on the beach shovels nuevo vallarta

Taking a break from shoveling.

We discovered that it had beached the night before while coming into the marina, and as the day progressed, the community efforts to assist the folks on this boat grew and grew.

All kinds of ingenious tricks were employed to try and dislodge this boat.  Men began shoveling around it, then they used a torch to remove the rudder, and finally they drove a backhoe onto the beach to dig a trench around the boat.

At high tide a huge tug-of-war line of men stretched far out into the water and pulled the bow towards the bay.  After sunset the boat finally floated off and was able to limp into Marina Nuevo Vallarta across from Paradise Village Marina.

Mayan temple sand castle

An ancient Mayan temple in the sand…!

 

 

 

 

Paradise Village is very grand, and the theme at the resort is ancient Mayan culture and history.  Even down on the beach someone had built a Mayan temple sand castle.  Up at the resort, the arched doorways and windows have the classic tapered edges and flat tops of the ancient Mayan style.

Mayan temple window patterns

Mayan history is reflected throughout Paradise Village Resort.

Every building is named for one of the famous landmarks of the ancient world: Palenque (Mayan ruins in Chiapas Mexico), Tikal (Mayan ruins in Guatemala), and more.

People go cruising for all kinds of reasons, and one of our biggest goals was to learn first-hand about a foreign culture and its history.  In this third year of floating along Mexico’s coast we began to feel that we’d accomplished that goal.

When we first stayed at the Paradise Village Resort before Christmas last year, we knew nothing about the ancient ruins or cultures that are sprinkled throughout Mexico.  Our cruising had been strictly focused on coastal destinations.

Zapotec style stonework

A huge lintel at one of the resort entrances reminds us of the stonework at the Mitla ruins in Oaxaca.

Mayan Statue at paradise village marina

Mayan warrior.

Now we felt really grateful to have gotten off the boat and seen some of the wonders of the ancient world. As we looked around the resort now, we recognized the historic references to antiquity.

Last spring, we had crawled all over — and loved — the ruins at Palenque, Monte Alban, Yaxchilan and Bonampak.

The lintel over the huge stone arch at one of the resort entrances looked very much like the stonework we had seen at the Zapotec ruins of Mitla outside of Oaxaca City, and the statuary around the resort was reminiscent of the stone statues we had seen at Yaxchilan.

Jaguar Statue paradise village resort

Roar!!!

Tiger face in the Paradise Village collection

Grrrr…

 

 

 

 

 

 

Last year we had been alarmed by the roaring sound of the howler monkeys in the trees at Palenque, because we had thought the sound came from jaguars. Here at Paradise Village, the jaguar statue looked very fierce — but not nearly as intimidating as Diego, the Tiger-in-Residence at the resort.

Tiger at Paradise Village Resort - Diego

The tigers were both very regal.

Diego and his companion Daisy are part of the Paradise Village Bengal tiger program that has produced over 76 cubs from 9 females and 3 males since 1996.  We learned it is the most successful tiger breeding program in Mexico, and the cubs have been relocated to zoos all over Mexico and Latin America.

Exotic flora and fauna abound at the resort, and a collection of macaws and a cockatoo give the place a really jungly sound each morning and evening as they squawk and holler at each other and their caretakers.

There is a fun parrot show twice a week, and these guys are really amusing to watch!

military macaw on bike

A native military macaw prepares for the Tour de France.

Moluccan Cockatoo drinking from a hose

The Moluccan cockatoo gets a drink.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

scarlet Macaw flapping his wings

The scarlet macaw went crazy during his shower every morning.

scarlet macaw shows off his colors

Joseph and his coat of many colors…

The olive green military macaws ride bikes, balance on balls, and do toddler-level exercises with jig-saw puzzle shapes and blocks. A blue and gold macaw roller skates, and the scarlet macaw and cockatoo pose with kids for photos afterwards.

Scarlet macaw takes a bath

He loved his bath as much as I loved that hot tub in the spa!

Their trainer has worked with them for many years, and it is one big happy family.  Every morning she brings out a hose to clean their cages, and they all take advantage of the water spray to get a bath and take a drink.

starbucks sign

Ahhh… a Venti Hazlenut Latte at last!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The military macaws are the only native parrots in this flock, and their breeding program at the resort must be very successful, as there were ten or so of them, including a few loving (and squabbling) pairs.

We were enjoying our new resort life so much that the days just flew past.  Every imaginable convenience was within a few footsteps of the boat

latte swirls

This fancy latte was even better…

Down at the mall (there’s a mall!!), we found not only Subway, Domino’s and McDonalds (believe me, these are very appealing when you’ve been at anchor for a long time), but there was a Starbucks.

Ooooh that first Venti Hazlenut Latte was yummy. Better yet, another little coffee bistro nearby had fluffy coffees with pretty designs on top.

At first, we had planned to stay at Paradise Village Marina for a month or so.  Little did we know that our stay would stretch out to be longer than that!

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Oh, That’s Just Swell! – Life on a Boat that ROLLS At Anchor!!

A container ship rolls in the swell in Manzanillo Mexico

The container ship rolled slower than this, but I can only imagine what it felt and sounded like inside!!
Notice that there are no visible waves!!

It is rare — no, it’s nearly impossible — on Mexico’s Pacific coast to find an anchorage where the boat stays flat. The direction of the wind, the tides and the ocean swell conspire to keep the boat in constant motion, endlessly pitching and rolling and ignoring all pleas from the crew to “Please Stop and Let Me Get Off!!”

It’s not that big a big deal during the day.  If we’re on the boat, we’re busy doing things.  Of course, sometimes we get caught off guard in the middle of something that requires coordination — like pouring a hot cup of coffee, standing on one foot while putting on a bathing suit, or walking up the companionway stairs carrying his-and-hers lunch plates in both hands.  The boat will suddenly lurch to one side and the coffee will spill all over the floor, or I’ll topple over with one foot stuck in my bathing suit, flailing helplessly as I go down, or the lunch plates will fly off in all directions as I try my best not to get too many bruises bouncing down the stairs to the floor.

At night, however, it’s another story.  The offshore winds at night in Pacific Mexico almost always turn the boat so it is beam to the sea, and it seems to me that the swell always picks up too.  So, even if during the day the swell was mild and the boat was taking the rolls on the nose, gently pitching from front to back, at night (like clockwork after the sun goes down) the boat turns and the side-to-side rolling begins.  Finding a comfortable sleeping position can be a good challenge.  On my side, I find myself rocking forward and backward, over and over.  A better position is either on my back or my front, arms and legs stretched wide on either side for stabilization.  The starfish position!  Get two people doing this in one bunk and… well, it’s a little like the game of Twister.

On more tumultuous nights, the doors, bulkheads and stairs creak with every roll. Sometimes an errant flashlight or coke can begins to roll back and forth on a shelf or in the fridge, banging at either end of its path. Thud, thud, thud.  What the heck is that noise?  Our ears perk up, listening for each thud as our bodies rock around around in bed.  Then we’ll find ourselves doing an hour’s worth of cat-and-mouse hunting, as we try to figure out what’s making the noise and squelch it. Sometimes the sound is in a cockpit locker, making for a naked dash outside to repack the locker so everything stays put.

Sometimes the boat plays games with us at night.  As it swings at anchor it faces beam to the sea for a while and then swings to face bow to the sea, moving in a slow 90 degree arc back and forth all night long.  When the boat finally turns all the way so the swell is on the bow, the side to side motion suddenly stops.  Ahh… such sweet relief!  We sink back into delicious oblivion and sleep steels over us.  For a few seconds.  Then the boat gradually swings back on its arc to put the beam towards the sea, and the noise and motion begin once again.

Anchoring all over the west coast of Mexico, we’ve become apprentices in the fine art of taking a shower on board, which can be an adventure unto itself, as well as landing a dinghy on the beach, which is frequently a true water sport of the wettest kind!

When we visited friends in the Las Hadas Resort Anchorage and stood on their balcony enjoying the view of Manzanillo Bay, we suddenly noticed a container ship leaning way over on its side.  Wow!  We watched for a few seconds and it slowly rolled all the way over to the other side.  Holy Mackerel!  What was it like to be on that ship, and what did all those containers sound like as the boat moved?  I don’t know, but it sure makes a great animation to watch from a solid foundation on sweet Terra Firma.

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Other blog posts that give a glimpse of what it’s like to live on a sailboat:

What Is It Like to go Cruising on a Sailboat in Mexico?! – Insights for planning a sailing cruise of Mexico

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PV: 2013 Kiteboard World Cup – Here on the beach!

Mini Cooper

It’s Your Lucky Day!

Mid-May, 2013 – One afternoon while strolling around the streets of Paradise Village (Puerto Vallarta Mexico), we noticed a Mini Cooper go by. Then another. And another. Heck, there were a whole bunch! What in the world? Mini Cooper sightings re not all that common here!

English phone booth on the beach

A British phone booth – by the beach!!

The next morning we went out on another walk, stretching our legs and lazily taking photos of flowers. Suddenly we noticed a group of Mini Coopers lined up in the parking lot at the Hard Rock Hotel resort. Aha! Mark ran over to get some photos, and then we went up to the resort entrance, hoping to find out a little more about what was going on.

Mini cooper test drive

Hop in and drive me!

 

 

 

 

Sure enough, more Mini Coopers were parked in front of the hotel lobby. And one little white one had these intriguing words painted on the door:
“Curious of being my pilot? Drive me!” The back window spelled it out a little more clearly: “It’s your lucky day – You can drive me!”

kiteboard world cup hunk

Hotties of both both sexes came to the races.

Lucky day, indeed!! Next thing I knew, Mark was signing some papers and I was jumping into the passenger seat of a chic little black Mini while a rep from a local dealership climbed into the back seat and told Mark to put the pedal to the metal. Wow!!

Mini Kiteboard world cup babe

Posing with a backdrop.

It turned out that Mini test drives were part of the 2013 Mini Kiteboard World Cup competition that was taking place down on the beach. So, after zipping around a few corners and thinking that gee, this was a really sweet little car, we ran down to the beach, grinning from ear to ear.

Minis were on display everywhere — in the grassy lawn and down on the beach. The theme was decidedly British. There was even a red English phone booth overlooking the water!

2013 mini kite board world cup interview

Interviewing the kiteboarders for the media

Our cameras went into overdrive and we we shared a quick “is this really happening?” glance as a gal put bracelets on our wrists and explained to us that these gave us access to the VIP hospitality suite where they were serving free drinks. Really?  Was it the cameras? Did they think we were with the press? Who cares! Let’s go!.

kiteboard world cup competitor

The kiteboarders pump up their kites.

 

 

 

It was early, but gradually a crowd of youthful hotties of both sexes began to pour in. Neither of us had any idea what a kiteboard was, but the athletes coming in all had huge backpacks and gear bags slung over their shoulders. They threw their gear bags in a pile while they carbo-loaded at a nearby food tent and then got ready to race.

2013 mini kiteboard world cup kites

The kites look like colorful dinosaur wings

 

After lunch, they began to spread their kites out on the grass. Rather than having rigid ribs and framing, the structural parts of these kites all got inflated by hand pumps.

Soon the kites filled the lawn, looking like vibrantly colored prehistoric wings. Then, one by one, the athletes carried their wings to the beach where they were laid out in the sand.

A big crowd had formed on the beach, and the announcer was getting everyone psyched up with an endless patter in English and Spanish, while music blasted a heavy, pulsing beat in the background.

kiteboard world cup puerto vallarta

Ready for take-off!

 

Looking at the angular wings on the beach, it was hard to imagine how they would be used to propel the kiteboarders.

But once they waded into the water and flipped their wings into crescent shapes, we suddenly saw the most beautiful display.

The kites rose up in the air and the athletes were pulled out into the water where they zoomed back and forth at break neck speeds.

mexico kiteboard world cup

The beach was loaded with people and kites.

mexico kiteboard world cup

Lots of color everywhere.

kiteboarding

The afternoon wind was perfect.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

There was a series of races that took place a ways out, and at first all the kiteboarders zoomed out there. The kites floated back and forth along the horizon, drifting, dipping, diving and soaring past each other, changing directions and floating freely in a kaleidoscope dance of colors.

2013 mini kiteboard world cup races

Kites fill the sky during the races.

kiteboarding races in mexico

A sailboat is framed by beautiful kites.

kiteboarding kite

Color in the sky.

 

 

 

 

 

 

A few sailboats glided past on the distant horizon, adding to the beauty of the scene.

We ran up and down the beach, trying to get the best angles on the action, when we suddenly saw one of the kiteboarders fly into the air and flip around in a somersault. Holy cow!! We didn’t know they did THAT!!

kiteboard jump

These guys are GOOD!

kiteboard flying

Soaring.

kiteboard tumbling

Tumbling.

kiteboarder jumping in Puerto Vallarta world cup

Weeeeee!!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

kiteboarder tumbling

Wow – how’d he do that?!

And then the challenge was on — trying to catch these guys in the act!

We were far from the the crowd and the main tent, and we could no longer hear the announcer. So we had no idea what was going on.

jumping over the camper kiteboard races

A photographer gets a shot from below.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

All we knew was that every so often a kiteboarder would flip up in the air and do a mesmerizing series of twists and turns.

kiteboarder racing in Mexico

When is he going to jump?

world cup kiteboard competition mexico

Landing pattern.

But we never knew when that would happen.

 

 

 

 

 

 

These guys zipped past us, back and forth, and back and forth, at crazy speeds, weaving between each other and making us wonder if their lines would tangle or if they would crash into each other.

kiteboarding somersault

Look out below!!

These were the best of the best, however — it was the World Cup after all — and there were no crashes or even near misses. But there were no indications of when they wanted to jump either!

So we’d pan one guy as he streaked past us on the beach, waiting and hoping, but then he would sail out to sea and never jump.

kite board speed racer

What an exhilarating ride!

Then, just as we’d put the camera down with a discouraged, “Aw, he’s not gonna jump,” we would see a different guy falling out of the sky right in front of us. It seemed that all afternoon we were saying too each other, “Arrghh, I missed that one!!”

But we did catch a few. And we were so excited by the whole thing that we went back the next day to see more.

recue boat with kitebaord jumper

The Navy rescue boat was never far.

What a glorious sport. So wild and free. They made it look fantastically easy, and we both wondered wistfully where we could take lessons.

kiteboard racer concentrates 281

Concentration…

 

 

 

 

It seemed like an effortless and exhilarating ride. Sometimes they cruised along one-handed. And even when they crashed, it just seemed like a splashy soft landing.

In the distance, though, we could see the Navy had stationed a rescue boat, just in case! Luckily, no rescues were ever needed, and instead they enjoyed the best seat in the house, right in the middle of all the action.

mexico world cup kiteboarding races competition

Kites flying above the beach.

world cup kiteboarding races mexico

What a beautiful spot to watch.

kiteboard with boots

Ahhh…. rest at last.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We also caught some of the action on video and put together a little clip.  It’s not quite Fox Sports, but it gives the essence of what it was like to stand there on the beach and take in this incredible spectacle:
2013 Kiteboard World Cup Racing in Mexico.

 

 

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Free Spirit – Travel inspiration from close to my heart!

free spirit - travel Inspiration for all of us

Free Spirit!
Photo courtesy of LavaTop.com

A very special woman in my life turns 83 this week — my mother, Anne. Full of spunk and fire, grace and enthusiasm, she is the essence of youth despite having 83 candles on her birthday cake.

An avid fan of the performing arts all her life, my mom took up ballroom dancing when she was 55, and is now a living legend in Boston’s Argentine Tango community where she is adored for being a beautiful dancer and a gracious “tanguera.”

Her free spirit and effervescent air defy any hints of aging, and she is admired by all women under 83 because she gives us hope that we too can be vibrant and spry and still wear high heeled shoes and sexy clothes no matter how many years go by.

It is little wonder that Mom has the spirit of a twenty-something and that her motto for her birthday gala two years ago was “81 is the new 18.” She has never believed in limits.

When I was a little girl, instead of admonishing me to be cautious, she always encouraged me to push myself. When I’d say, “Watch me!” as I jumped and jigged around like all kids do, I never heard “Be careful!” Instead I heard, “That’s great, but let me see you do it again, only this time jump higher” or “run faster” or “do it with your arms over your head!”

Of course, this bought her time, as she could sit back and relax while I burned up all my childhood energy running, leaping, climbing and diving, ever higher, further and faster — with toes pointed, for style, of course.

There are no limits in life

There are no limits!
Photo courtesy of LavaTop.com

She has always had a passion for travel, and she hits the road with the same intense eagerness. When I was growing up, I loved hearing her travel stories from the year and a half she spent in France doing a college year abroad.

Between semesters, she traveled around Europe on her own with a rucksack (they weren’t called “backpacks” in 1949), and she stayed in youth hostels. From learning to ski in the Alps to sharing a late night meal of couscous with a group of Moroccans in a hostel, her tales were exotic and exciting.

Traveling Europe solo at 19 made her a savvy budget traveler for life, and she passed it on to us kids by taking us hosteling on Nantucket and Martha’s Vineyard in Massachusetts. We vacationed in dormitory style housing with travelers from overseas! Later, in retirement, she took many trips to New York City and Hawaii, always staying in hostels where she would meet folks from all over the world.

At 79 she decided to travel internationally once again, but she felt she had outgrown the hostel scene. Always a city girl, her dream was to go to Paris, see some sights and practice her French while sipping coffee in street-side Parisian cafes. What fun!! Next thing I knew, she had hopped on a plane and rented a tiny apartment for a month in the heart of the action by the Seine.

After she arrived in Paris, the first email I received from her was truly breathless with excitement. Emailing me from a 24-hour internet cafe as the sun was just beginning to lighten the city streets, she described how she had discovered a huge outdoor, all-night Argentine Tango festival in an enormous city park. She had tripped the light fantastic amid hundreds of dancers into the wee hours of the morning, and now it was dawn…!

travel inspiration from a free spirit

Happy Birthday!!
(Thank you to whoever took
this beautiful portrait — I love it!)

Wow!!  Every year since then she has returned to Paris for three months, on her own, suitcase and dance shoes in hand. Each year I can’t wait to receive her daily travel emails. I find my mouth agape and my head shaking in absolute wonder as I read every one.

On these Paris jaunts, every hour of every day is chock full of thrills, from taking guided city walking tours and canal tours to going on outings with new friends to stopping by the Louvre or watching vintage French films in the afternoon to attending ballet and opera performances in the evening to dancing the night away whenever the opportunity arises.

And, of course, being a lifelong budget traveler, she does it all for next to nothing.

All my life I have turned to my mom for inspiration to be brave, to be daring, to be fearless and to be free. I hope you will too. Seize the day — and go have an adventure!

Happy Birthday, Mom — “83’s your Prime”!!

Love, Emily

PV: La Cruz – A Fun Artisan Market & Cruiser Hangout in Mexico

La Cruz Marina Riviera Nayarit

La Cruz has an active fishing jetty and docks for mega yachts too!

Early April, 2013 – After rounding Cabo Corrientes and sailing up from the pretty but lightly populated anchorages of the Costalegre, our arrival in La Cruz felt like coming into the big city. The Banderas Bay Regatta was in full-swing, and the Puerto Vallarta marinas were packed to the gills.

The La Cruz anchorage was also full to overflowing, and we suddenly felt the exhilarating rush of being part of a busy port.

La Cruz Mexico Artist's gallery

An art gallery in La Cruz.

 

 

La Cruz Mexico horse in yard

Despite being next to urban Puerto Vallarta,
La Cruz has a rural, small town feeling to it.

La Cruz is an interesting mix of high end yachts, fishing boats, and cruising boats.

It is one of the most popular hangouts for cruisers in Pacific Mexico, and is home to some wonderful characters too.

Cruiser at La Cruz de Huanacaxtle

La Cruz has some great characters, many of whom happily traded in their suits and ties to go cruising.

The quiet town itself has an artsy side and a rustic side, and we saw a little of both as we strolled the familiar cobblestone streets, passing an art gallery, roosters in the streets and a horse tied to a tree.

New to us, however, was the fabulous La Cruz market that takes place every Sunday. Somehow we had missed this vibrant event in years past, and it was a real treat to take part in it now.

La Cruz Market and beach

The farmer’s market is spread out under umbrellas along the shore.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

La Cruz Mexico Marina Nayarit Farmer's Market

Wonderful things for sale on the water’s edge.

The little jetty and walking path near the fish market transform completely every Sunday morning as food and art vendors set up shop under colorful umbrellas.

Kids play on the beach while parents buy and sell goodies just steps away.

Anything and everything is for sale in this market, but unlike some flea markets, this is all Really Good Stuff.

La Cruz market band

These guys kept the tempo of the market upbeat…

Bird of Paradise flowers

Exotic flowers for sale.

There was a band playing in the midst of it all, putting us in a festive mood as we shuffled from table to table, marveling at the crafts and sampling delicious things.

Huichol bead art La Cruz

A Huichol man makes ancestral bead art.

 

 

Beautiful flowers were brought in from the fertile valley nearby. Artisans made Huichol bead art and glass blown figures as we watched.

Glass blower

A glass blower shows how it’s done.

Coffee table with Wendy

Ahh… my favorite coffee!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We found our favorite coffee vendor, a Frenchman name Wendy, and replenished our stash of his tasty roasted beans.

Out on the jetty, we found a vendor selling unusual, tiny, paper dolls. I’m not sure if they were papier-mâché or some other technique, but the wizened faces of the little old ladies and men carrying baskets of hot peppers were unique.

Papier mache doll heads

Dolls made of paper.

Papier mache doll head

Lots of detail on the wrinkled faces.

La Cruz Mexico Water Bottle Lady

This lady was selling butterflies made from used
water bottles.

Another lady was selling colorful “stained glass” style butterfly decorations made of discarded water bottles. Now that’s clever!!

Water bottle butterflies

What a creative idea!

We came across a vendor selling lovely carved picture frames. One in particular made a neat frame for the boats in the marina behind the market!

La Cruz Marina - Framing the boats in the marina

A pretty frame for the boats.

 

But I think the reason this market is so vastly popular is because of the awesome food for sale. Every delicacy you can imagine was on offer.

Juice Vendor

Orange-tangerine juice – yum!

stacked french bread

A mountain of baguettes.

Mark started with a glass of fresh squeezed orange and tangerine juice — what a great combo!

Other vendors were cooking things to order. Oh my. No wonder cruisers love La Cruz so much!

La Cruz Mexico Farmer's Market

Not sure what it was, but it was delicious!

 

One table had French bread loaves stacked high in the air. They looked intriguing, but the baker who made them looked even more-so!

mexican baker

The baker.

We enjoyed every minute of this market and took our time savoring all the yummy food and talking with the vendors.

Paradise Village Marina sunrise

Sunrise at Paradise Village Marina

Back on the boat, it was time to move down the bay to Paradise Village Marina. We had been living at anchor for five months now, and had promised ourselves a final month of sweet shore-based living in that deluxe marina. On our first morning, Paradise Village welcomed us with a lovely sunrise over the bow…

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Escapees Magazine features our story “Pacing Your RV Travels”

Pacing Your Travels Escapees

Escapees Magazine
May-June 2013

Posted May 2, 2013

Escapees Magazine has featured our story Pacing Your RV Travels in their May-June 2013 issue. When we started our full-time RV travels six years ago, we hurried and hustled just like all new full-timers do.  We wanted to see it all, and see it all Right Now. Since then, we have learned to slow down and immerse ourselves a little deeper in our travels, finding hobbies and a “theme” that have given greater meaning to our journey…

You can read the article here:

Pacing Your RV Travels

Escapees is a multi-faceted organization that looks after the needs of RVers. From their wonderful bi-monthly magazine to their awesome database of boondocking locations, to their Texas-based mail forwarding service, to their involvement in RV advocacy, to their many inexpensive member RV parks, to their programs for elderly RVers that have hung up their keys for good, Escapees is an excellent organization for all RVers to join…

You can join Escapees by calling 888-757-2582 or by clicking here: Join Escapees

If you mention our blog, Roads Less Traveled, when you join, the good folks at Escapees will put a little something in our tip jar. For years we recommended them without that, but we sure appreciate it!

Spanish Learning Tools – How To Learn To Speak Spanish!

Learning and speaking Spanish

Mark checks his homework before class.

April 30, 2013 – One of the most fulfilling aspects of cruising Mexico, for us, has been the crazy roller coaster ride of learning to communicate in Spanish. We’re not super competent at it, but it is so much fun trying.

Our mistakes are always great for a few laughs, too. One time, while the Mexican Navy was doing a routine inspection of our boat at sea, I happily rattled off the answers to the Navy officer’s many questions in Spanish.

When he asked how big the engine was, I chirped “54 caballeros,” quite proud that I knew the correct word for 54. Seeing him smirk at me over his glasses, I wondered what I’d said wrong. Then I suddenly remembered that “horsepower” is “caballos” (horses), not “caballeros” (gentlemen). Oops!

Before we started our RV travels in 2007, I had a hunch we might someday buy a boat and go cruising in Mexico, so I took a year and a half of conversational Spanish at the local community college. For anyone planning to cruise, travel by RV or live in Mexico (or any other Spanish speaking country), I can’t recommend highly enough that you enroll in a community college Spanish class right away, even if your departure date is years away! The more semesters of Spanish you have under your belt before you take off on your voyage, the better off you will be once you get here. I had three semesters. I sure wish I’d had six.

What I loved about my class was that everyone in it had a deeply vested interest in learning Spanish. Our class was full of nurses, hospital administrators, cops, lawyers, construction foremen, and people married to native Spanish speakers who wanted to get along with their in-laws. We all progressed through the semesters together, and we had a blast!

It was quite a challenge, however, to take all that good class knowledge and apply it in the streets of Mexico once we started cruising, especially living in a community of English-speaking cruisers. When we first got to Mexico, I was very surprised at how much Spanish I didn’t know. However, by constantly asking directions, asking vendors for mechanical parts for the boat, and generally bumbling along, I slowly improved.

Spanish Learning Tools

There are several tools that have been helping me bridge the gap between in-class Spanish and on-the-street lingo. One of my favorites is Breaking Out of Beginner’s Spanish by Joseph Keenan. It is hilarious and is chock full of phrases, concepts and goodies that are glossed over by traditional text books.

Besides being very amusing and easy to read, it gives lots of colloquial phrases.  So when “Really?” or “No way!” or “Imagine that!” is on the tip of your tongue, you can come up with the equivalent Spanish phrase.  It also discusses the most common verbs and adjectives in great detail, explaining the nuances implied by using the words in certain contexts.

Another excellent book to help cement all that grammar and vocabulary in memory is Madrigal’s Magic Key to Spanish by Margarita Madrigal. This book works extensively with the most common verbs and adjectives as well, but breaks it all down in bite size pieces and focuses on the forms you are most likely to use on a daily basis.

Whereas Breaking Out of Beginner’s Spanish is a book you can sit back and read page after page, laughing the whole time while picking up little jewels along the way, Madrigal’s Magic Key to Spanish is a book I like to grab for five minutes at a time, flipping to a random page and diving in. Both are awesome, and I’m glad to have each one on my bookshelf.

Spanish Reference Tools

http://translate.google.com (Google Translate) is terrific for translating phrases and words. This is really helpful if you get a message from TelCel about the status of your USB modem account and have no idea what it says. Cut and paste the message into Google Translate, and you can get the gist of what the message is all about.

Once I started making friends here in Mexico, I suddenly started connecting with them the modern way – via email and Facebook (they call it “Face”). Yikes! What a shock to start reading emails and FB comments filled with slang and colloquialisms, all written in the modern “texting” form of Spanish where “que” is shortened to “k” and punctuation is skipped all together! I guess English isn’t the only language undergoing major changes with “u” “ur” and other bizarre abbreviations taking over the written word and making the literary greats of yesteryear turn over in their graves.

Google Translate doesn’t work for translating friends’ email messages and FB comments. For those I find I turn to the following websites and my own imagination.

http://www.spanishdict.com is a Spanish-English dictionary and an excellent word translation tool. Type in your word in either English or Spanish and hit enter, and you’ll get pages of information. That’s what I love about it. Rather than giving you a one word translation, it goes on and on, showing how the word works in different phrases, and analyzing it from every angle.

http://conjugation.org will conjugate any Spanish verb into every person in all the tenses. I use this all the time when writing emails.

When we first got to Mexico, I always carried an electronic Spanish English Dictionary with me whenever we went out on the town. It was especially helpful in the super market where the packaged food ingredients lists were unintelligible because the words for most basic ingredients are not at all similar between Spanish and English. More than one cruiser has lamented buying a container of plain yoghurt only to find out later it was sour cream!

Back on the boat we also have a traditional Spanish-English Dictionary (book). For those of us who grew up in the era of one telephone per family, sometimes it’s just easier to grab a book and rifle through it…

We have also used our Spanish for Cruisers book quite a bit, as it gives the words for all the parts on the boat, from “proa” to “popa” (bow to stern).

Immersion Spanish Classes

Almost every city has immersion Spanish classes available. Just ask around or hop online. We both took a week of Spanish classes at Instituto Jovel in the historic Spanish Colonial town of San Cristóbal de las Casas in the state of Chiapas. For $100 USD per person for the week, we each had three hours of tutorial instruction a day (we each had two different teachers for an hour and a half apiece with a break in between). We also had an hour or two of homework every night. We both learned a tremendous amount, and it bumped our Spanish skills up a notch.

For me, just conversing one-on-one in Spanish for three hours a day made a huge difference in my ability to think on my feet and spit the words out. For Mark, learning the basic grammatical constructs helped give his sizable vocabulary some glue. However, even he — who took one look at the desk-chairs in my community college Spanish 101 class and said “no way” and walked out — now wishes he had braved some conversational classes before we started cruising Mexico.

Adding a home-stay to our week of classes in San Cristóbal would have made it true “immersion,” but we enjoyed doing our homework in the comfort of a hotel. The experience was intense enough as it was. Some folks do two, three, four weeks or more, but we found our brains were mush by the end of Day 5!

Another excellent immersion Spanish school is in the gorgeous city of Guanajuato — a city that no cruiser should miss. Escuela Mexicana is set up much like the school we attended in San Cristobal, and all the students we talked to there said they loved their experience. The only caveat we would have is that if you choose to attend this school, don’t stay in the hotel they recommend, because all your classmates will be there too, and you will end up speaking English together. We heard this from every student we conversed with there.

Lots of folks like Rosetta Stone and other audio courses on tape and online. These are probably great for supplemental learning, but I think the most effective (and realistic) method is to talk to and listen to a live instructor whose mission is to teach you.

Getting out and Practicing!

I was shy to try to speak in Spanish at first, but Mark was so bold with the few words he knew that I quickly jumped in too.  I knew I was making progress when the folks I talked to stopped switching into English as soon as I opened my mouth. Wow! They understood what I said. Once in a while I even understood their reply! After a year of cruising, when I carried on a conversation with a hair stylist throughout my haircut, I felt totally triumphant.

Now, I take advantage of long cab rides to engage the cabbie in conversation. A 20-minute cab ride can turn into a great Spanish lesson that makes the cab fare a bargain. Street vendors enjoy shooting the breeze with passersby, so we try to do it in Spanish. The silver tongued timeshare tour salesmen love to talk, and are happy to chat up a storm.  Get them to do it in Spanish!!!

What do we talk about? We compare notes on where we’re from, where we’re going, where we grew up, our families, what the best things are to see around town, what we’ve all done for work, and on and on. Many folks we meet have lived north of the border for a while, and we enjoy sharing our thoughts about places we know in common. These aren’t earth shattering conversations, but they tune our ears and help us get the words flowing out of our mouths.  And it’s fun!

Keep a Notebook

We ask people all the time, “¿Como se dice…?” to find out how to say something in Spanish.  But by the time we get back to the boat we’ve forgotten all those golden nuggets we learned.  Jotting down these words and phrases we hear in a notebook is really helpful.  (Remembering to BRING that notebook is another story…!!)

I hope you find these ideas and tools as useful as we have… buena suerte (good luck) !!

For a recap, here are what all these goodies look like:

We receive a 4-6% commission — at no charge to you — for any purchases made through the Amazon links on this site. This helps us cover our out-of-pocket costs for the site. It does not pay for our time spent editing photos or writing posts. If you make a purchase, let us know so we can say thanks!

Wondering what else there is to help you learn Spanish? Maybe it’s here:

More Tips for Cruising Mexico

PV: Chamela to La Cruz – Dances with Whales at Cabo Corrientes

Map of Cabo Corrientes Chamela Banderas Bay Puerto Vallarta

100 miles from Chamela to La Cruz…

Late March, 2013 – Cabo Corrientes (“Cape of Currents”) is a notorious point, known for dishing out excitement, thrills and sometimes terror to sailors that are voyaging between the Costalegre (Chamela to Manzanillo) to the south and Banderas Bay (Puerto Vallarta) to the north.

However, much like the bad tempered Gulf of Tehuantepec down near Mexico’s border with Guatemala, this cape’s mood swings are predictable. It isn’t hard to find a window of opportunity when the cape will let your boat pass without demanding much of a toll.

We saw a weather window coming up on our favorite weather prediction website. To time it optimally, doing as little night sailing as possible, we needed to leave Bahia Chamela and its pretty islands around midnight to arrive in Banderas Bay 100 miles north the next afternoon.

So we hopped 10 miles from colorful Careyes to Chamela Bay where we anchored for an afternoon and evening, watching the immense waves crashing on the beach.

Chamela Bay Mexico surf XZQK3RSSYWQF

The surf was up when we got to Chamela.

Bahia Chamela Mexico surf XZQK3RSSYWQF

Cruisers were stuck on their boats in the anchorage watching these crazy waves.

Chamela Playa Perula Mexico surf XZQK3RSSYWQF

Yikes!

Wow. What a show!! The surf was so high that none of the cruisers were going ashore in their dinghies. Well, one pair of guys tried. In the end, though, they anchored their dink outside the surf zone and then swam in. That must have been quite a body surfing ride!!

Cabo Corrientes Mexico XZQK3RSSYWQF

The notorious Cabo Corrientes is calm as we pass.

 

We took note of the locations of all the fishing pens and other cruising boats around us in the anchorage while it was still light.

Then, at the appointed hour, we crept between them all, in total blackness, and snuck out of the anchorage in the dark.

Cabo Corrientes Mexico XZQK3RSSYWQF

Another boat joins us on the way into Banderas Bay.

 

 

 

We had an uneventful voyage north, and hours later, at dawn, the infamous Cabo Corrientes treated us to a hazy sunrise. All was calm and serene as we passed the point.

Whale breach XZQK3RSSYWQF

Welcome to Banderas Bay!!!

Humpback Whale breach

Over we go…

 

 

 

That is, all was tranquil until a huge humpback whale breached right by us.

Holy cow!! All heck broke loose aboard Groovy as we slowed the engine and jumped for the camera.

Humpback Whale breaching XZQK3RSSYWQF

Bam!!

 

Photographing breaching whales is a little tricky, though, because they don’t tell you when and where they are going to pop up.

Whale breach Puerto Vallarta

Let’s do it again!

 

 

 

Humpback Whale breaching Puerto Vallarta

Over we go…

Only after the show ended did I remember to think about important things like the camera’s shutter speed and orientation of the polarizing filter.

Oops!! Oh well, the drama was fantastic.

Whale watchers see humpback whale breach

Wham!! Right in front of a tour boat!!

One thing that intrigued us was that this guy always breached with his left fin up and then fell over on his left side. Another thing that amazed us was that the whale watching boats were always right there — and so close!!

Whale watchers see humpback whale breach

Left fin first! Kinda like springboard divers that lead their rotating dives with one arm.

Whale watchers humpback whale show

The whale watchers got such a great show — and so did we!!

Whale watchers get splashed

A little spray action for the tourists!

It really seemed to us that the whale was performing for the whale watching boat, because it breached so close to them every time. I’m not sure what kind of performance contracts these whales work out with the tour operators, but both the whale and the boat seemed to know exactly when showtime was over. The boat left, and the whale never appeared again.

Tuna catch La Cruz Marina Nayarit

Catch of the day.
Actually, they had lots more carts of fish!

We anchored outside of Marina Riviera Nayarit, the pretty new marina at La Cruz de Huanacaxtle, and quickly went ashore.

La Cruz Mexico fish market

Little fish on display at the La Cruz fish market.

La Cruz Marina Riviera Nayarit Mexico

La Cruz is a mix of high end yachts, cruising boats
and fishing pangas.

There is a wonderful fish market next to the marina, and we watched the fishermen unloading their sizable catch from their pangas. Those fish were easily 4 to 5 feet long.

La Cruz Mexico fisherman

Those are some big fish!

Just as we were arriving, our friends Mel and Elaine were leaving Mexico on their sailboat Mazu to cross the Pacific Ocean to the Marquesas Islands in the South Pacific. Yikes. That’s a three week long journey without ever seeing land, never mind stepping on it.

Mazu Before Crossing

Our friends Mel and Elaine get ready to cross the Pacific.

We tossed them their dock lines and waved them goodbye as they left on their adventure. For us, our eyes were turning towards shore, and we were looking forward to discovering some new things in and around La Cruz de Huanacaxtle.

Mazu Before Crossing

Land-Ho will be on Hiva Oa in the Marquesas in 3 weeks. Buen viaje!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Go Fish! – Some wild ways to catch dinner – It’s for the birds!!

Osprey & frigate bird in flight.

Osprey & frigate bird in flight.

One of the unexpected joys in cruising Mexico has been getting to know the wildlife around us. The birds, in particular, are fascinating to watch (as long as they don’t build nests in our boom or soil our decks too much!!).

Osprey in flight

Osprey

And one thing that has surprised me is how many different techniques they use to catch fish.

Osprey were familiar to us from north of Mexico, and we’ve heard their piercing cry up and down the west coast and in Maine. They like to fish feet-first, swooping down to the water and grabbing their prey with their fuzzy taloned feet (here’s a cool video).

 

Frigate bird on wire

Frigate bird

Frigate bird Flying

These guys have a bright red neck
pouch they puff up to impress
the girls!!

Less familiar to us were frigate birds, which we first saw when we started sailing south along the Baja coast. Several played all night long trying to land on our mast!

These prehistoric looking birds fish by skimming along the surface and dipping their long beaks in the water to pluck their prey from the surface. It looks slick (when it works), although it’s less dramatic than the ospreys. However, it doesn’t seem to be all that effective!

So frigates frequently steal fish from other smaller birds – mid-air!

Tern sitting on rock

Tern on a rock

Tern flying

A tern in flight

Terns are terrific fishermen and flyers. They dive beak first and then fly like mad to take their fish somewhere they can eat in peace.

But the frigate birds often gang up on them, hassling them to drop their fish.

The flying displays and dog-fights in these disputes is awe-inspiring. The terns are incredible aerialists, ducking, dodging and darting about, but the bigger and slower frigates usually win, forcing them to drop their catch.

Pelican flying

Pelican scopes out dinner.

Pelican in water

Post-dinner satisfaction.

Pelicans were familiar to us before we started cruising. They soar high above the water and then fold in their wings tight against their bodies as they start their dive. By the time they hit the water they are streamlined to the shape of a javelin.

When a flock of pelicans attacks a school of fish near us, the sky and water look like they’re filled with flying swords. The funny part is when they tip their heads back and gulp down the fish they have caught. Sometimes you can see the fish wriggling down their neck!!

Brown booby flying

Booby

 

Booby on turtle

A Booby rides a sea turtle
It’s a “turtle-bird” !!

Boobies were new to us. They are stout, ungainly birds, and they, too, dive headfirst. When they hit the surface it sounds like a huge boulder landing in the water.

When we first heard a flock of boobies fishing around our boat, we ran out on deck because we thought someone was throwing big rocks at us!

Oddly, these guys barely penetrate the water. They must be extremely buoyant because they seem to penetrate only up to their shoulders. Their tails splash and wag in the air as they right themselves.

Cormorant

Cormorant – free diver!

Cormorants, however, are not buoyant in the least. They are excellent free divers, going quite deep and far. As a small child growing up on the north coast of Boston, Massachuestts, I fondly remember a game I played with my great uncle. We’d count how long the cormorants stayed under water, and we’d guess where they’d pop up again. Some never seemed to resurface!!

Cormorants have much denser bones than all other birds, and their feathers aren’t water resistant. This weighs them down and helps them stay under water longer. A common sight we see is cormorants standing on rocks with their wings spread out to dry!!

Snowy Egret with fish

Snowy Egret
Doesn’t get one feather wet!

 

 

Snowy Egret

Snowy egret in the waves

Egrets are the opposite. Their long legs let them wade into the water and never get a feather wet. Snowy egrets have wonderful bright yellow feet and some very fluffy and decorative feathers that would look just terrible if they ever got wet.

They manage to fish from the shore with great success, tip-toeing in and out of the waves with ease.

It has struck me, watching all the leggy shore birds that scamper in and out of the waves for dinner, that they know as much about wave mechanics and wave sets as world class surfers do.

Fisherman

When you don’t have wings.

Of course, humans don’t fly, but we’ve developed our own fishing tactics over the years. Many modern human fishing techniques aren’t very green or planet-friendly, but one of our favorite sights on the Mexican coast is watching the fishermen ply the waters with their nets in an age-old technique that is used the world over.

 

 

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Other blog posts that give a glimpse of what it’s like to live on a sailboat:

More funny stories from our Mexico cruise + Tips for planning your own sailing cruise

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Costalegre: Careyes – The most colorful anchorage in Mexico!

Careyes castle Costalegre Mexico blue oceanfront estate

Bright blue elegeaance!

Late March, 2013 – When the swell got us rockin’ and rollin’ too much at pretty Paraiso, we decided to backtrack four miles to another little jewel on the Costalegre coast: the Bay of Careyes.

Snowy egret flying

A snowy egret flies overhead.

This anchorage is marked by a series of ornate and colorful estates on its outskirts, and they had caught our attention when we passed them on the way in.

Castles in Careyes Mexico Costalegre Red mansion

Perhaps their Ferrari is
fire engine red too?

Costa Careyes castle Mexico Costalegre blue mansion

Another royal blue estate!

As we approached Careyes this second time, the bright blue, fire engine red and brilliant orange of the houses lining the anchorage glinted in the morning sun. All of the oceanfront estates were sizable, and all were painted in vivid colors.

 

Turning into the bay, in front of us was a hillside covered with homes of every imaginable color.

It looked like the owners had all run to the paint store and bought the store out of every can of paint in every color and then had a field day creating a community of rainbow colors.

Bay of Careyes anchorage Mexico Costalegre

What a colorful hillside!

We quickly got Groovy settled near the beach and then spent a good hour in the cockpit gaping at our surroundings. This place is like no other on the Costalegre. I know I just said that about Paraiso, but it is true of Careyes as well. These are special and unique anchorages.

Sailboat at Bay of Careyes anchorage Mexico boats at anchor

Groovy looks good here!

Colorful Careyes houses Costalegre Mexico

Careyes sports homes of every imagineable color!

Where Paraiso had given us a feeling of the tropics, with turquoise water, a light sand beach and palm trees, Careyes was all about splashy, bright buildings spilling down a hillside in a playful spray of primary colors.

Pretty homes of Costa Careyes on the Costalegre

What a spot!

Careyes Mexico colorful houses on the hill

There are no colors left in the paint store!!

Playa Rosa Careyes Bay Mexico boats at anchor

Playa Rosa at Careyes.

Sailboat at Careyes Beach Costalegre Mexico boats at anchor

Groovy is tucked in around the corner.

Bright color was the theme here – even the beach we were anchored near was named “Playa Rosa” or “Pink Beach.”

Playa Rosa Costa Careyes Costalegre Mexico

What a fantastic staircase!

Palm trees on Playa Rosa Careyes

Looking out at the bay from Playa Rosa.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We quickly jumped in the dink to explore this beach. It was deserted but had an alluring bright blue zig-zag staircase running up into the hills.

The beach was backed by palm trees and we got a good glimpse of Groovy around the corner.

It felt a little funny walking on this empty beach. There wasn’t a soul to be found, yet there were lots of homes in the hills.

Bay of Careyes Playa Rosa Palm trees

View from Playa Rosa

 

 

We came across a little restaurant and poked around, but there was no one there.

A driveway led to a narrow cobblestone road, and we walked up the road a ways. What a pretty little lane it was, filled with flowering trees.

We still didn’t see anyone anywhere. It felt a little like we’d landed on a beautifully landscaped and deserted island.

I know there is a town or main street or something back there, but we didn’t explore too far.

Costa Careyes cobblestone street

Pretty cobblestone lane and flowers.

Bougainvillea flowering tree

A beautiful flowering tree.

Homes in Costa Careyes

Vivid orange casitas away from the beach.

 

 

When we first dropped the hook in Careyes, we also put down a stern anchor to keep the boat pointed towards the waves in an effort to reduce the rocking motion. The tricky part was that during the day the predominant wind waves came in from one direction, and at night the swell came in from another direction.

Stern anchor

A requirement for boaters overnighting in Careyes: a stern anchor!

 

 

 

 

Sailboat anchored in Careyes

Groovy poses in front of a castle!

So once or twice a day during our stay, at the whim of the tides, the wind and the swell, which are all active forces on the boat, we needed to adjust the stern anchor line, letting it out or pulling it in.

Garden patio home

A pretty garden patio…

 

 

 

 

 

Blue heron

A blue heron on Playa Careyes.

This would realign the boat so it pointed directly into the waves, wherever they were coming from, rather than lying sideways to them and rolling like a pig on a spit.

Playa Careyes Costalegre Mexico

Playa Careyes

The easternmost beach, Playa Careyes, had a few signs of life in the late afternoon when a family came out to play volleyball. As the sun was setting the game broke up and a couple took a dip in the water together. A blue heron watched them from the shore.

Careyes Costalegre Mexico pretty homes

A rainbow of colors on the hillside…

Another day we took the dinghy to the westernmost beach, Playa Blanca, and it was utterly deserted. The few stark buildings that were there appeared to be totally unoccupied.

However, as we rounded the corner we saw the most unusual bridge strung between the bright blue estate on the mainland and a tiny island just in front of it. I guess if they wanted to go for a picnic on the island all they had to do was walk across the bridge!!

Palm tree on Playa Rosa Careyes

A palm tree on Playa Rosa.

Careyes Bridge to island Mexico

A very cool bridge next to Playa Blanca…

Costalegre Careyes Playa Rosa homes

Dinghying to Playa Rosa.

Crashing surf in front of Careyes mansion

Crashing surf and a lime green estate…

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We had noticed the water slowly turning darker during our first two days in this anchorage.

On the morning of our third day we found ourselves immersed in red tide.

 

Moonrise

Rats!! We had escaped the red tides that plague Mexico’s Pacific coast all season, but one had finally caught us here in Careyes. Oh well!

Sunset at Careyes

Sunset in Careyes.

We scrapped our plans for sticking around and snorkeling, as it would be a few weeks before the red tide completed its lifecycle.  Sigh!

Our next destination was Puerto Vallarta, and a weather window had opened up for us to slip around the notorious Cabo Corrientes in peace and quiet.  So we packed up the boat, and made our way towards Bahia Chamela to stage our passage.

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