Kanab and Alton, Utah
July 15-19 (and again August 21-26, 2008) - We left the cool pine
woods of the North Rim of the Grand Canyon in Arizona, and
descended into the flat, hot desert floor of Utah to the north. Kanab,
Utah, is the only town of any size (pop. 3,800) between several
national parks: Grand Canyon, Zion, Bryce Canyon and Grand
Staircase Escalante.
It is a charming community tucked up against a row of red
rock mountains. At this time of year the town is loaded with
rental RVs and foreignors. Groups of Europeans were
caravaning in their rental RVs, hanging the flags of their
homelands off their radio antennas and in the back windows.
Our weeks in the woods at
the North Rim had emptied
our shelves completely, so
we stayed for a few days to
replenish everything. We
were fortunate that the
monsoons were still very
active. Even though Kanab is
at 4,900 feet elevation, it was
blazing hot in the sunshine.
The cloud cover and
downpours in the
afternoons kept us
from sweltering.
Kanab's city park
features beautiful
gardens and a brand
new huge swimming
pool and water slide
that was packed to the
gills with happy kids all
day. While we strolled among the flowers, the park's longtime caretaker
described the boisterous family fun of the Mormon Pioneer Days that are
celebrated with an enormous city-wide barbecue in the park's barbecue pit.
Hundred of kids and families spread out on the grass on the July 24th
weekend to celebrate the unique heritage of the Mormons who settled
Utah with great purpose in the mid-1800's.
Behind the park, Squaw
Trail climbs up a canyon
to heights way above the
city, passing steep red
rock walls along the way.
We clambered up the trail,
shouting "hello" at the
tops of our lungs as the
trail took us ever deeper
into the canyon. I have
never heard such a
perfect echo with such a long time delay. As we
shouted, it was as though the canyon walls were
shouting back at us, each word enunciated with
absolute clarity.
The bird's eye view of Kanab from the top of the
cliffs was worth the sweat we lost getting there. We
had often hiked similar trails around Phoenix in the
olden days, but this trail was unique because it was
utterly quiet. We didn't pass one other person on
the entire trail. From the top of the mountain we
could hear the town's internal workings below: a
tractor in a distant field, a motorcycle rumbling down
the main street, kids playing ball in a back yard.
The air around us was perfectly still, and these quiet
murmurs from the town's streets drifted slowly up to
us on sun-drenched air currents.
The rocks were every
shade of orange and
red. Some faces were
rainbow streaked, with
stripes formed over the
ages, offering a full
array of orange-hued
swirls and bands. As
we climbed back down,
we found furnace-hot
rock faces were now
baking the spots where
there had been cool
shade during our ascent. The beauty filled our senses, but this red rock
desert environment is unforgivingly harsh in the sun.
The road leading north
out of Kanab is
stunning, without being
showy. Crowded in
among tourists and
locals hurrying along
this busy stretch of
road, I caught myself
gaping at the exotic
cliffs that lined its
edges.
Over eons, the darker hues of
some red rocks have dripped
lazily down the lighter colored
cliffs, leaving dribbled stains on
the rock face like an old paint can.
August 21, 2008 - We saw a small
road on the map leading away
from the highway to a dot marked
"Alton." Accepting this open
invitation into the hinterlands, we
hoped no cars would want to
share the one-lane road with our
behemoth truck and trailer as we
approached the town. We arrived
unscathed, but found ourselves
hopping out of the truck each time
the power lines crossed the road,
worried that the buggy would snag its
roof on the low-hanging wires.
Tucked away, far from anything, amid
farmlands that stretch as far as the
eye can see, this picturesque tiny
town charmed us with its "Whoa" stop
signs and warm welcome from
people working in their yards.
We asked a man in a cowboy hat
where we might find a place to park
for the night, and he suggested the town hall parking lot. "Really?" we asked. "I'm the mayor,
and it's okay with me!" Another fellow, Paul, set his shovel aside for over an hour to chat with us
about the town and its history. He told us the mayor, Claren Heaton, was the great-grandson of
the town's founder, and that the name of the town was drawn from a hat, back in 1908, by two-
year-old Gwen Heaton, as the citizens of the new town looked on.
He said it is not unusual to see a horse
strolling down the street, and that no one
minds. With just 134 people in town,
there's no such thing as a strange face,
human or equine. 100% of the citizens
are Mormon, he said, adding, "probably
80% are related to each other too."
As we talked, Paul's fifth cousin three
times removed, Victor, pulled up. He
parked his truck in the middle of the
road to join our conversation. We
were on the main drag, and Mark and
I looked up nervously when a truck
approached in the distance. Paul and
Victor laughed and assured us there was no need to move: the truck would go around us.
We watched in amazement as the man in the truck, marked "Sheriff," waved "hello" to our
little group, and then drove off the road into the dirt to get past.
We rode our bikes throughout
the town, utterly delighted with
the prettiness and happiness of
this little community. We eagerly
jumped off the bikes every few
minutes to snap pictures.
Without being backward or old
fashioned, this miniscule hamlet
seemed untouched by the rest
of the world, living in peace, and
removed from time.
So we had to laugh when we discovered we had a wi-fi signal in the trailer.
But the joke was on us. Mark popped off an email to his cousin, describing this wonderful town we'd discovered. Almost instantly,
he received a reply, complete with a link to the Alton, Utah, website showing the long line of Claren Heatons' ancestors that had
been mayors of the town before him. Mark's cousin also included a link to Alton's satellite photo on Google Earth, detailed enough
to see the shed next to where we were parked.
At peace, yes. Removed from time, perhaps. Out of touch, hardly!
We spent the summer of 2008 bebopping around southern Utah. Two of our most heartwarming experiences were the
discoveries of two unusual Utah animal sanctuaries: Best Friends Animal Sanctuary, a no-kill domestic animal sanctuary in
stunning Angel Canyon and the Southwest Wildlife Foundation which rehabilitates and reintroduces native fauna.
Parowan UT – Vermillion Castle and County Fair
We learned the "Vermillion Castles"
are not man-made
Yankee Meadows Reservoir in Parowan Canyon
A split rail fence lines the reservoir
One couple we met ate fresh-caught trout every night
Our epic ride up 2nd Left Hand Rd was challenging
Finally, we made it to the top
The Iron County Fair had something for everyone
Lots of thrills for young and old
Mark discovered the Rodeo Royalty
Nearby, the youngest crowd got to test the
driver's seat for the first time
The older "kids" showed off the muscle cars of their youth
Parowan, Utah: A Vermillion Castle and County Fair
August 26 - September 5, 2008 - After
visiting Kanab and Alton, UT, on the
eastern side of the mountains, we made the
heart-stopping climb and descent into Cedar
City and went on up the interstate to
Parowan. We had heard there was great
boondocking somewhere in Parowan
Canyon but I couldn't figure out quite where
it was on the map. We stopped in the
Visitors Center to get some help, and
discovered the town was hosting the fun-
filled Iron County Fair over Labor Day
weekend in just a few days. Whie I was busy studying the maps and local photos of the
canyon to get my bearings, I barely noticed Mark saying, "Hey, there's a 5K race on Labor
Day. Wanna do it?!" I must have muttered something that sounded like agreement,
because the next thing I knew Mark had filled out the race forms and was reaching in his
wallet for the entry fee.
Part of my confusion about the
Parowan Canyon roads was that I
thought the "Vermillion Castle"
landmark would be a building -- a real castle! Instead, it was a series of
red rock spires. Also, we soon learned that although everyone in the
area knew exactly where Second Left Hand Road was located, there
was no road sign to help visitors find its tree limb-shrouded entrance.
We camped at
the top of the
canyon in a
scenic meadow
surrounded by
mountains.
One day we got the crazy idea to ride our bikes down 3,000 feet
into Parowan on paved First Left Hand Road and then climb back
up on the gravel 4x4 Second Left Hand Road. The mere 16 miles
took us well over two hours, and we were pooped when we got to
the top. I kept looking at my bike's odometer and telling myself, "3
mph is a very respectable speed!" The views of Yankee Meadows
Reservoir at the top were well worth the effort, and we heard from
several sources that the fishing in the reservoir was excellent.
The Iron County Fair was a classic small town fair, and we wished we
had our little granddaughters with us. As the mayor said to us days later
when we met him walking down Main Street, "It is a little piece of
Americana." Attendance was much higher than in past years, perhaps
because people were staying home to save gas money. The rides were
packed, the kettle corn was delicious, and there were events and prizes
for everything imagineable.
There was live
music and a vast display of beautifully crafted artworks, from crocheted
booties, to finely made quilts, to an elegant wedding dress, to Lego pirate
ships built by the kids, to pies, jams and cookies of all types, to
photographs of everything under the sun. Blue ribbons abounded, and
they were all well deserved.
As we wandered the
fairgrounds, we met all
kinds of characters.
We are learning to be a
little more brazen in
taking photographs of
the fun people we
meet, and Mark
captured the fair's clowns, both two-
legged and four-legged, while I captured
Mark basking in the glow of the Rodeo
princesses, queens and attendants.
The horseshoe championships were hotly contested, with
professionals stepping up to expert throws, and the area was filled
with smiling people of all ages. The tractor display showed farm
equipment of all types from an earlier age. Mark spotted one built
when he was born in 1954 while another fellow noted one
built in his birth year, 1939. We had lunch with the tractor
drivers, learning a little about that hobby while we munched
pizza, and we got to know Red, Basil and Alden, each of
whom we had either seen around town in previous days or
spent time with in the weeks following the fair.
There was a long train for
the toddlers that snaked
endlessly around the
fairgrounds. The kids
alternated between
grinning with delight and
frowning in concentration
as they turned their
steering wheels around
each corner. There were
cries everywhere of
"Mommy, can I ride in that?" Meanwhile, the dads were busy admiring the muscle
cars on display, hoods up, chrome polished, each restored with loving care.
The fair went on for
three days, and we
returned on Labor
Day itself to watch
the parade down
Main Street. There
were floats, dance
teams, horses, fire
engines, the Rodeo
Royalty on
horseback, local
politicians and candy and toothbrushes
thrown into the crowd. Parowan is the heart of Mormon Pioneer history, as it was the first
community settled, even before Salt Lake, and several floats made proud reference to
that heritage.
We left the fair contented and smiling. It had been a perfect day and weekend, the best
Labor Day that either of us could remember. And -- oh yes -- we each placed 2nd in our
age group in the running race, and paid the price with sore joints for a few days
afterwards!
We recovered from our race in Cedar City where we watched the Great American
Stampede Horse Parade (some pics and notes on our "What's It Like?" page), and then
we made our way on to Pioche, Nevada, which felt to us like the true heart of the Wild
Wild West.
Best Friends Animal Sanctuary & Southwest Wildlife Foundation in Utah
Best Friends Animal Sanctuary
Reception Building
Avian greeters
Joey, Hyacinth Macaw
South America
Honey, Major Mitchell Cocaktoo
Australia
Seppi, Mollucan Cockatoo
native to Indonesia
Writes a column in the monthly magazine
Quetzl, Congo African Grey
Age 54 - the same as Mark!
Tika, Umbrella Cockatoo, native to Indonesia
"Angel Canyon"
The sanctuary sits on 5 stunning square miles
Rescued horses live in Horse Haven
Angel's Rest Cemetery
Cemetery plots for all the animals. No animals are
killed; most are fostered out to new homes; a lucky
few live out their days at the sanctuary.
The cat house
Siesta time
Bunny companionship
All the bunnies, dogs and cats
have indoor/outdoor living
quarters, and they come and go
at will.
Nothing like some soft green grass for your
campsite.
Martin Tyner & Thumper, a Harris Hawk
22 years old, reaches speeds of 100 mph
Igor, a Prairie Falcon
Dives for prey at 200 mph
Scout, a Golden Eagle
Can spot a yummy rabbit from 5 miles away.
Golden Eagle: 7 lbs and 7,000 feathers
Can reach altitudes of 35,000 feet
and hurtle towards earth at 145 mph
Each raptor got many hugs during the seminar.
A different golden eagle was released later that day
from an overlook in Cedar City, UT.
Utah Sanctuaries: Best Friends & Southwest Wildlife Foundation
July 15-19, 2008 - Kanab, Utah sits squarely between three of
the greatest national parks in the US, and we stopped there,
along with everyone else, for supplies, water and haircuts. We
didn't intend to stay, but as we were leaving town we saw a cute
sign that said "Best Friends Animal Sanctuary" with an arrow
pointing down a winding road that seemed to go deep into a
canyon. We couldn't resist the temptation and took that turn.
Four days later we finally emerged!!
Best Friends is a unique,
extraordinarily well-funded and
beautiful no-kill animal shelter.
It sits on 5 square miles of
exotic red rock canyon and
houses 2,000 animals. Their
mission is to find homes for all
the animals that are adoptable, while the rest are allowed to live out their days in the loving care
of an enormous staff. The grounds and landscaping alone are worth seeing, but it was the
many tours of the various animal areas that kept us in that canyon so long.
I am a bird lover, and the parrot garden is a treat. On
summer days, all the parrots are kept in outdoor enclosures under a canopy of huge shade
trees near a pretty waterfall feature. Visitors are invited to interact with the parrots, and we
spent many happy hours entertaining and being entertained by these squawking, talking,
feathered comedians. The parrots' nighttime quarters
are indoors, so twice a day during the summer months
the bird caretakers do the Parrot Parade, carrying each
bird between its indoor enclosure and its outdoor
enclosure. On the hottest summer afternoons the
caretakers walk around misting the birds with water
sprayers to help them stay cool. What a life!
An important
theme at the
sanctuary is
positive
interactions
between the
animals and
people. All the tours are free, and you can
volunteer to stick around and work with your
favorite animals for as little as a few hours or
for as long as you want to stay. There are
cabins and a tiny RV park in the canyon to
accommodate volunteers, and many return
for a week or two every year.
Seppi, a Mollucan cockatoo, likes to walk
along the underside of the
roof of his cage, hanging
upside down and talking to
you. Quetzl, a quiet
African Grey, was hatched
in 1954 but doesn't look a
day over five. Tika, an
Umbrella cockatoo, was
summering at the sanctuary
while his owner took care of
some personal challenges.
He was accustomed to a lot
of attention, so he was happy
to climb into my arms and get
some free cuddles for a while.
The canyon, officially "Kanab Canyon" but affectionately called "Angel Canyon," is a
dramatic gorge lined with towering red rock cliffs. Most sanctuary tours require a
shuttlebus ride of a few miles from the reception building out into the rest of the
property: Dogtown Heights, the Cat House, Feathered Friends and the Bunny House.
The drive along the cliff's edges is stunning, and we passed some
of the sanctuary horses who live a charmed life, grazing in peace
while gazing at multi-million dollar views.
Angel's Rest cemetery is along this road as well. Every animal that dies at the
shelter is buried here with a headstone. There are tiny plots for the little birds and
big plots for the large farm animals. Even horses, goats and cows are adopted out
to new homes, whenever possible, and the video shown hourly at the reception
building included snapshots of many happy people who had become loving owners
of goats, sheep and other farm animals.
Most of the animal
buildings are built with
wings that provide an
indoor shelter with a
doorway the animals can
pass through to reach an
outdoor shelter. At the
cat house, the outdoor areas include ladders, pillowed perches, and a
lattice-work of planks and shelving near the ceiling. Litter boxes, food
and water dishes are discreetly placed in these out-of-reach alcoves.
Looking up, all we could see was the
odd paw or tail hanging down from
the lofty hideaways. It was siesta
time, and all the cats were happily
dozing.
The bunnies have indoor/outdoor
housing as well, and since bunnies
like to cuddle, many had a stuffed
bunny to snuggle up to. Outside, one bunny
was working very hard digging a hole, while a
few others were taking a load off under little
tent-like canopies that offered cool shade in a
lush bed of soft green grass.
Dogtown was a busy barking array of buildings. Most of the
dogs from Michael Vicks' dog-fighting operation had just been
rescued, and many dogs from Katrina were still in transition
here. We heard amazing stories of animal rescues. One lady
had 200 guinea pigs living in her 10' x 10' kitchen, and another
wacko had 1,600 rabbits in her back yard. 1,000 cats were
taken from a crazy lady's home in Pahrump, Nevada, and as I
heard the tale from a caretaker I remembered reading about it in
the Pahrump newspaper when we visited eight months earlier.
All those cats, rabbits and guinea pigs had passed through Best
Friends to new owners or were still at the sanctuary hoping for
new homes.
Before an animal is adopted out, it must go on an overnight stay to ensure that it is a well-behaved
propsective pet. Visitors can volunteer for these overnight stays, without obligation, at Parry Lodge in
Kanab. If the animal flunks the test, it simply gets a little more loving at the sanctuary, as the caretakers
work to improve its manners.
August 30, 2008 - In Parowan, Utah, at the Iron
County State Fair, we attended a fantastic
demonstration and talk by Martin Tyner, founder
of Southwest Wildlife Foundation. His
sanctuary focuses on rehabilitating native
creatures and returning them to the wild. It was
my understanding that Rocky Mountain Power
Company has recently donated a huge, multi-million dollar parcel of land
to this sanctuary. Eventually, once money is raised for land
improvements and building construction, this foundation could become
for native wildlife what Best Friends already is for more domesticated
animals.
He had three raptors with him: a Harris Hawk, a Prairie Falcon and a
Golden Eagle. He is a Master Falconer, and although he uses each of these
particular birds for education purposes, he takes them all out hunting on a
regular basis to keep their natural instincts sharp. His job is to flush out rabbits
and other prey from the desert brush so the raptors can catch their meals. They
fly free, and they fly high, happy to have a trained human to take the guesswork
out of finding dinner.
He told us of the highly aggressive nature of the Prairie Falcon, a slim bird that
screamed periodically throughout his talk. A few years back he had rescued and
rehabilitated a particularly aggressive female that had deserved her nickname
"Horrible." He released her into the desert near Cedar City, and she became a
great mom and has raised several clutches of young since then. But she's oh-
so-smart. She recognizes his truck from their many hunting outings together
when she was in his care. Now, when he brings other raptors into the desert to
hunt, she goes out of her way to tease and harrass him. One time, as he stood
with his arm outstretched waiting for his raptor to return to him, she dived
at him from the other direction, knocking him to the ground six feet away!
At the moment of impact, he suddenly understood exactly the kind of
blood-draining terror that rabbits feel when a Prairie Falcon singles them
out for a lunch date.
He invited everyone at the talk to come out to the highest ridge in Cedar
City later that afternoon to witness his release of a Golden Eagle back
into the wild. We didn't attend, but he said that whenever he releases a
bird he welcomes spectators, so hopefully we will watch a release
another time. He told us that the local Paiute Indians have a special
relationship with Golden Eagles. They believe that if you say a prayer
over an eagle feather, the prayer will
be carried directly to God. The Golden
Eagle being released that afternoon
was going to carry prayers for more
than 4,000 local cancer victims, the "down winders" in southern Utah who contracted cancer as a
direct result of the Cold War era nuclear testing carried out next door in Nevada.
Unrelated to these two wonderful animal sanctuaries in Utah, I recently discovered that Bird
Lovers Only Rescue in Dyer, Indiana has a very funny movie clip of a lesser sulphur crested
cockatoo dancing to the beat of the Backstreet Boys here. It puts a smile on my face every time I
watch it.
We spent the summer of 2008 bee-bopping around souther Utah, and one of the most eye-
popping stops was at the majestic Bryce Canyon National Park.
Bryce Canyon, UT – Fairyland of Pink Turrets
Inspiration Point overlooking Bryce Ampitheater
Bryce Canyon Point
Smiles everywhere
Natural symmetry
The regularity and precision of
these formations can be dizzying.
Trees cling to the rim
Bryce Ampitheater
Beginning of Queen's Garden hike
The spires give way to a smooth, orange and red
moonscape
Trees from another planet
End of the trail -- at Queen's
Garden
Nature's Wall Street
The top of the Wall Street switch backs
Bryce Lodge has many cute cabins for guests
The Peek-a-boo hike defies nature's laws and seems
to ascend for the entire loop.
Serenity
Spires and spikey trees surrounded
us
Peek-a-boo
At times it seemed as though we were wandering
among towering chess pieces.
A promontory hangs into the canyon for an awe
inspiring view. A good place to take a breather!
Little tunnels and hobbit doorways invite the hiker to
vast views on the other side.
Bryce Canyon National Park, Utah
July 20-August 20, 2008 - We had
arrived in the lower elevations of
Kanab, UT and visited Best
during a peak week of monsoon
activity. Monsoons are a
southwest phenomenon that give
the desert's much needed
moisture and relief from the heat
in mid-summer. I had learned
about them living in Arizona, but
had never known that they could
spread their salve as far north as
southern Utah and even over into
southern Colorado. It is magic to
watch the sky cloud over promptly
at noon every day, and there is a
lusciousness to being drenched
by brief downpours every
afternoon. These storms leave
the air crisp and clear, and they
keep the ferocious heat to a minimum. Once the monsoons abated, we
found ourselves in an oven, baking by noon, and burnt to a crisp by
evening. Full of energy at the break of day, we were lethargic sloths by
nightfall. It was time to get back to the higher elevations. We left Kanab
for Ruby's Inn, a settlement just outside of Bryce Canyon National Park at
7,500 feet.
Bryce Canyon
is a wonderland of pink and white
spires, laid out with amazing
symmetry. The open bowl of
crystalline formations carved from
the surrounding flat plains
resembles an ampitheater. The
man who first ranched the area
around Rubys Inn in the 1800's
had no idea the canyon was just
beyond his land. Imagine the
look on his face when, at the
suggestion of a knowledgeable
neighbor, he took his family on an
excursion to the rim! It is a place that evokes smiles
in everyone, and as we rode the shuttle bus to the
view points and walked the many trails that lead
along the edge and down into the canyon, I was
struck by how happy everyone was. Children love
this place.
We walked along the Rim, from
Bryce Point to Inspiration Point,
and watched a fantastic summer
thunderstorm creep over the
valley until we had to run for
cover ourselves. This land was
carved by a divine hand using the
tools of wind and rain to erode the
rock into fantastic formations. I
was awed by the regularity of the
carvings. Rows upon rows of
spires stand in perfect military
formation.
At the top the
trees cling to the rim for dear life,
their roots clawing at the
crumbling gravel as their
branches wave ominously in the
breeze, threatening to rip the
trees from the edge. At the
bottom the trees pierce the air
above them, the dark green
spikes contrasting with the
orange and white striped spears
of rock.
We hiked down into the canyon to
the Queen's Garden. As you descend on this hike,
the land becomes otherworldly. Between the spires,
the land forms smooth, rounded slopes and the
trees are short and twisted. The noise of the
tourists at the rim fades away behind you and the
solitude and odd surroundings seem like a
moonscape. The emotional
anchor of the ordinary looking
grassy fields and ranches that
surround Bryce Canyon
disappear from view, and you
find yourself on the moon, or
mars, looking up at the red rock
spires, repeating the mantra:
"Wow!"
The gravel path winds in and out
of the spires, abandoning one
spectacular sight as it takes a
sharp turn around a bend
towards another. We walked
through several doorways and
tunnels, emerging from each to
find ourselves staring at yet
another splendid work of art by
Nature. People linger on these
trails. Llittle groups and pairs line
themselves up for photos, posing
all over this spectacular setting.
Cameras are handed around
trustingly between strangers in
order to get everyone in each
group into the pictures. "I'll take
one for you if you'll take one for
me," is the phrase of the day,
sometimes said in broken English,
and often accompanied with gestures and sign language. Cameras are all
shapes and sizes. "Just press the button." Lots of nodding and pointing.
Everyone is grinning. None of us can wait to show these pictures to our
friends back home. All the photos turn out great.
At the very bottom we came to a plaque that showed us
Queen Victoria. This was the Queen's Garden. She is
at the tippy top of a spire. She looks very regal, and
very wee. In time she will erode away and be replaced
by other shapes. Looking around at the other hoodoo
rock formations, we made out a medieval friar and a
great horned owl to accompany the queen.
We had descended about a thousand feet and had to
climb back up again to the rim. We chose the route that
goes through Wall Street, where the red rock walls
close around you like skyscrapers but much closer. A
switchback trail takes you up until you look way down
on the tiny pine trees at the base. Then you climb
higher til the people seem mere specks. Your heart
pounds from the exertion of climbing
straight up, and when you reach the
top the view takes your breath away
yet again.
We wandered along the rim and met
a little girl holding a camera that was
as big as she was. What a smile she
had as that camera clicked away.
The Bryce Canyon Lodge is the
oldest original National Park lodge still
standing; the others at Yellowstone,
Grand Canyon and the rest all
succombed to fire at one time or
another and were rebuilt. Bryce isn't immune to
wildfires, however, and there were many "prescribed
burns" in action while we were there as the Park Service
attempted to keep the woods thinned so they wouldn't
be prone to future fires.
We spent a few days riding our bikes and hiking in the
areas away from Bryce Canyon and then returned to do
the Peek-a-boo hike. We were both surprised at how
the grins came back to our faces and the "wow" formed
on our lips again as soon as we walked up to the rim.
What a place.
We had no idea why the Peek-a-boo hike has its name,
and we descended into the canyon away from the
crowds wondering what laid
ahead.
Once again, as we walked down
into the canyon, we felt an
almost physical sensation cloak
our bodies as the immense quiet and peace of this place enveloped us.
Suddenly, we looked up at a wall of spires and saw one hole, and then
another. "So that's why it's called Peek-a-boo!" Mark said, mugging for
the camera. We walked with our heads up and our eyes on the peaks,
tripping occasionally. But you can't look down on this hike, even as you
stumble.
The trail
twisted and turned and double-backed on itself between formations. I
felt like a rat in a maze, or a child stomping around on an enormous
chessboard.
We did a lot of climbing on this hike, more than seemed physically
possible for a loop hike. Mark walked faster than I did (he didn't
bring his camera and mine kept slowing me down!), and I turned a
corner and looked up to see him happily surveying the view from
an ideal vantage point. Once I caught up to him we sat together
for a moment.
When we turned to continue on, we were facing a little doorway. As we passed through the door
to the glittering view on the other side, I felt like Dorothy as she steps out of her Kansas house
into the colorful Land of OZ.
After a few weeks at our "ranch
house" outside of Bryce Canyon,
among the cattle, ponderosa pines
and pronghorn, overlooking grazing
lands that stretched to the horizon,
we felt like it was home. Our TV got
great NBC reception, so we stayed to
watch most of the Beijing Olympics. It
was very hard to tear ourselves away,
but eventually the day came, and
once we hit the road, the excitement
of discovering new places propelled us forward and made us eager to
leave. We bumped into the sweet village of Alton and gradually made
our way over the mountains to Parowan and Cedar City.
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More info about Bryce Canyon National Park:
- Bryce Canyon National Park Official Website – National Park Service Website
- Maps of Bryce Canyon National Park – National Park Service Maps
- Location of Bryce Canyon National Park – Google Maps
- RV/Tent Campgrounds in Bryce Canyon – Dry camping for small / medium RVs inside the National Park
- Ruby’s Inn RV Park – Full hookups and Big Rig Friendly in nearby Bryce Canyon City
- Red Canyon Campground – Beautiful dry camping with 6-8 campsites big enough for our 36′ fifth wheel trailer.
More blog posts from our RV trips to Bryce Canyon
- Bryce Canyon in Winter – Snow and Lace on the Red Rock Spires! 01/25/19
- Spring in Sarasota FL + Bryce Canyon’s Night Skies – in Trailer Life 04/04/17
- Bryce Canyon – Rainbow Point – Bristlecone Pines and Sweeping Vistas 11/01/16
- Bryce Canyon National Park – “Mossy Cave” – Mystery Waterfall! 10/18/16
- Red Canyon Utah and the Bryce Canyon Bike Trail! 10/13/16
- Bryce Canyon Gone Wild – Tempests, Rainbows & Wildlife 10/09/16
- Bryce Canyon National Park – Fairyland Trail – A Beautiful Hike! 10/02/16
- Bryce Canyon – Hiking The Rim & Navajo Loop + A Tourist Time-lapse! 09/29/16
- Bryce Canyon National Park – Inspiration Point – OMG! 09/27/16
- Bryce Canyon, UT – Fairyland of Pink Turrets 08/25/08
Related posts from our RV travels:
- Our RV travels in Southwestern Utah – Bryce, Zion and Capitol Reef area
- Our RV travels in Southeastern Utah – Moab, Arches, and Canyonlands area
- Our RV travels to Sedona Arizona – Red Rock Country in AZ
- Our travels to North America’s National Parks – National Parks and World Heritage Sites in the US, Canada and Mexico
Our most recent posts:
- Buckskin Mountain State Park – Fun on the Colorado River! 01/31/26
- How to Install Starlink Gen 3 in an RV? Use the Speedmount! 08/07/25
- Escape to Paradise – Rocky Mountain Magic! 08/01/25
- Is Forest River a Good RV? Well Built? Here’s Our Experience 06/20/25
- Sunset Crater Nat’l Monument – Lava & Camels at Bonito CG! 06/06/25
More of our Latest Posts are in the MENU.
New to this site? Visit RVers Start Here to find where we keep all the good stuff!!
Zion NP, Kodachrome Basin & Snow Canyon, UT – Great Red Rocks!
Ballerina Leg
Snow Canyon
Snow Canyon
Zion NP, Kodachrome, & Snow Canyon, UT
October 7-19, 2007 - From Goblin Valley we took the gorgeous scenic
byway along Route 12 through Torrey, Capitol Reef National Park, and
Escalante to Kodachrome Basin State Park. Like all the Utah state park
campgrounds, this one was lovely. There was a flock of chukars (birds
closely related to the quail) that
wandered about the grounds happily
taking food from my hand.
We hiked the Panorama Point View trail,
soaking in the immense redrock
formations. Several had cute names,
including Ballerina Leg, which truly
looked like a ballerina's leg.
Sandstone is very soft, and we found
a huge sandstone rock that other visitors had
rubbed. It was fun to put your hand in the handprint
in the rock and rub. The rock would granulate into
sand beneath your fingertips.
From Kodachrome Basin we headed over
to Zion National Park. Because we were
towing the trailer and we were 52 feet from
end to end, we opted to approach the park
from the west side rather than taking the
really cool twisting road in from the east. So we didn't see the
amazing rock formations that flank the roads on the eastern side.
However, once we arrived at Zion we took an exquisite bike ride along
the bike path that leads into the park. The road into the main canyon
is closed to motorized vehicles, and we thrilled to the mammoth cliffs
on either side of us as we rode deep into the canyon.
There was an organized bike
ride going through Zion a few
days after we did our bike
ride. It would be fun to be
part of a large crowd of
cyclists taking over this pretty
road through the park, but we
enjoyed the solitude of riding
by ourselves beneath the
towering spires. We had a
perfect day with warm
temperatures, clear blue
skies and lots of flowers in
bloom.
We were continuing to press on
southwards, barely staying ahead
of the winter weather behind us. At
Snow Canyon State Park we found
another delightful campground
where we tucked ourselves right up
against the redrocks. We rode our
bikes on the beautiful park road
and looped through some pretty
new masterplanned neighborhoods
on the outskirts of St. George.
At last it was time to leave
Utah. We decided we would
return in the Spring of 2008,
as we had barely touched
upon the areas we wanted to
see. In the meantime,
however, the cold was
forcing us out, and we drove
south to the outskirts of Las
Vegas, Nevada, where we
found the spectacular Valley
Blog posts from our RV trips to Zion National Park:
- Zion National Park’s Hidden Jewels – Off the Beaten Path in an RV! 12/06/17
- Zion National Park “West” RV Trip – Gorgeous Kolob Canyons! 12/22/16
- Zion National Park RV Trip – One AWESOME Canyon! 12/15/16
- Zion NP, Kodachrome Basin & Snow Canyon, UT – Great Red Rocks! 10/31/07
Blog posts from the area near Zion National Park:
- Best Friends Animal Sanctuary & Southwest Wildlife Foundation in Utah 09/15/08
- Coral Pink Sand Dunes State Park – Shape Shifting in the Sand! 11/08/17
- Johnson Canyon Movie Set – A Spooky Ghost Town – Happy Halloween! 10/27/17
- Kanab – Hub for the National Parks + Gorgeous Canyons Nearby! 11/12/17
- Kanab & Alton, UT – Whoa!!! 09/29/08
- Sand Hollow State Park, Utah – An Oasis in the Desert! 11/21/17
- Zion National Park “West” RV Trip – Gorgeous Kolob Canyons! 12/22/16
Blog posts from all our travels to National Parks and UNESCO World Heritage Sites in North America
More great RV camping destinations:
- Lost Dutchman State Park: GORGEOUS scenery & RV campground!
- Windy Hill Campground + Tonto National Monument
- Lynx Lake, Arizona – Great RV Camping Near Prescott!
- Dead Horse Ranch State Park + Tuzigoot and Clarkdale
- Catalina State Park & Roosevelt Lake: RV Camping in AZ
- Oliver Lee Memorial State Park, New Mexico – A Dog’s Eye View!
- Lost Dutchman State Park Campground – Arizona Gold in the Superstitions
- Lake Pleasant & Canyon Lake – Waterfront Camping in Arizona’s Sonoran Desert
- Sand Hollow State Park, Utah – An Oasis in the Desert!
- RV Camping with the Rock Art Petroglyphs in Gila Bend, AZ
- City of Rocks State Park, NM – RV Camping in the Hoodoos!
- Boondocking at Big Bend National Park – Cheap & Scenic RV Camping
- Roosevelt Lake – Lakeside Camping in AZ
- Wupatki Nat’l Monument – Ancient Indian Ruins & Great Camping in AZ!
- Valley of Fire, NV – A Cauldron Cooled
- Zion NP, Kodachrome Basin & Snow Canyon, UT – Great Red Rocks!
- Goblin Valley, UT – Where the Ghosts Are
Our most recent posts:
- Buckskin Mountain State Park – Fun on the Colorado River! 01/31/26
- How to Install Starlink Gen 3 in an RV? Use the Speedmount! 08/07/25
- Escape to Paradise – Rocky Mountain Magic! 08/01/25
- Is Forest River a Good RV? Well Built? Here’s Our Experience 06/20/25
- Sunset Crater Nat’l Monument – Lava & Camels at Bonito CG! 06/06/25
More of our Latest Posts are in the MENU. New to this site? Visit RVers Start Here to find where we keep all the good stuff!!
Goblin Valley, UT – Where the Ghosts Are
Sea turtle
Mushroom
Gorilla head
Space ship taking off
Ducks
Goblin Valley & Little Wild Horse Canyon, Utah
October 1-6, 2007 - Continuing south from the San Rafael Swell, we
stopped in at Goblin Valley, Utah. This state park is a gem. As you
arrive you are welcomed by a trio of goblins who stand apart from the
valley, greeting visitors with otherworldly expressions. Beyond them an
enormous formation dominates the flat horizon, looking like a bright red
gothic cathedral.
The campground is nestled into the buttresses of the redrock
cathedral, with shade ramadas at each site.
The rock formations are very tall and imposing, but when you walk up
close to them you discover that much of their structure is like a sand
dribble castle kids make at the beach. The sandstone is literally
dripping down the sides of the formation and it is very delicate to the
touch. Tap it lightly and it sounds hollow. Touch it any more forcefully
and it breaks off.
We wandered
down into the
actual Valley of
the Goblins, a
fantastic open area of redrock formations that look like creatures. We
learned that these formations evolve in the same way as the arches do
at Arches National Park, but in this neck of the woods the result is
goblins instead of arches.
You are allowed to climb on the goblins, and they stand two to three
times human height, making a great climbing playground. As we
walked down into the valley a little kid rocketed past us yelling, "This is
heaven!"
Many of the formations are recognizable shapes....
One day we hiked
the Little Wild Horse Slot Canyon. This is
an 8 mile hike but only about an hour of it is
spent in the slot canyon. The slot canyon
was very narrow. At times the gravel path
was wide enough for just one foot at a time.
But it wasn't scary at all.
The canyon is wide open to the sky
above, and the narrow portions last
only a few feet. Don't hike these
things when rain threatens, because
the water gushes through. After a
rain it takes a few days for the water
in the slot canyon to subside.
Feeling a chill in the air in Goblin Valley, we made our way towards southern
Utah along the incomparable Scenic Route 12, stopping first at Kodachrome
Basin and then riding our bikes through Zion National Park.
More great RV camping destinations:
- Lost Dutchman State Park: GORGEOUS scenery & RV campground!
- Windy Hill Campground + Tonto National Monument
- Lynx Lake, Arizona – Great RV Camping Near Prescott!
- Dead Horse Ranch State Park + Tuzigoot and Clarkdale
- Catalina State Park & Roosevelt Lake: RV Camping in AZ
- Oliver Lee Memorial State Park, New Mexico – A Dog’s Eye View!
- Lost Dutchman State Park Campground – Arizona Gold in the Superstitions
- Lake Pleasant & Canyon Lake – Waterfront Camping in Arizona’s Sonoran Desert
- Sand Hollow State Park, Utah – An Oasis in the Desert!
- RV Camping with the Rock Art Petroglyphs in Gila Bend, AZ
- City of Rocks State Park, NM – RV Camping in the Hoodoos!
- Boondocking at Big Bend National Park – Cheap & Scenic RV Camping
- Roosevelt Lake – Lakeside Camping in AZ
- Wupatki Nat’l Monument – Ancient Indian Ruins & Great Camping in AZ!
- Valley of Fire, NV – A Cauldron Cooled
- Zion NP, Kodachrome Basin & Snow Canyon, UT – Great Red Rocks!
- Goblin Valley, UT – Where the Ghosts Are
Our most recent posts:
- Buckskin Mountain State Park – Fun on the Colorado River! 01/31/26
- How to Install Starlink Gen 3 in an RV? Use the Speedmount! 08/07/25
- Escape to Paradise – Rocky Mountain Magic! 08/01/25
- Is Forest River a Good RV? Well Built? Here’s Our Experience 06/20/25
- Sunset Crater Nat’l Monument – Lava & Camels at Bonito CG! 06/06/25
More of our Latest Posts are in the MENU.
New to this site? Visit RVers Start Here to find where we keep all the good stuff!!
San Rafael Swell, UT – Pictographs & Dinosaur Prints
San Rafael Swell, Utah
September 25-30, 2007 - We rushed south to get away from the snow
and cold in Park City and found the perfect temperatures in the Green
River area. The San Rafael Swell is a vast area of redrocks and desert
brush that we explored for several days. The rock cliffs are enormous.
We found rock faces that sported pictographs painted by ancient
peoples 2000 years ago. Pictographs are made using some kind of
paint on the rock, but it impregnates the rock face enough to last over
thousands of years. It may have been made using saliva or blood.
The images were mystical. The people were tall and thin with
garments that reached to the ground. It was hard to tell what they
were doing, but in one image all the people had holes pecked in their
chests. Apparently the holes were pecked deliberately, though
researchers don't know what they represented.
We also found petroglyphs chiseled in the rocks by ancient peoples
1000 years ago. The images were a little more real-life. Elk and big
horn sheep were easy to distinguish.
One image was a little mystifying,
however: the figure had four
fingers, three toes, antennae and
either a tail or a shield in the other
hand. There is graffiti around
many of these rock images, and
the poor quality of the modern rock
doodles makes it clear that the
rock artists spent some time and
had some skill in making these
images last.
Further on we found a dinosaur
track (the guidebook helped us
find it!). Whatever type of
dinosaur it belonged to was very good sized. Mark's hand
disappeared into the footprint.
We drove through an area called "Jackass Flats" and, sure
enough, we saw three burros nibbling the grass. They came right
over to us to check us out. Eventually they decided we weren't all
that interesting, and they wandered off.
Back out on I-70 we stopped at the north end of Spotted Wolf
Pass. It took 13 years to build this portion of I-70 through the
rock cliffs. It takes five minutes to drive through it.
From there we dropped down to Goblin Valley, Utah.
Flaming Gorge Utah – Vibrant Hues
Flaming Gorge - Green River
Flaming Gorge National Park
Flaming Gorge
Back side of Park City in Fall.
Sunrise over the snowy ski runs -- in September!!
Leaving northern Utah for warmer places south.
Flaming Gorge National Park & Park City, Utah
September 18-24, 2007 - We left South Dakota's Black Hills and
headed west through Wyoming and south to Utah. We stopped at
Flaming Gorge National Park, a stunning area of red rock cliffs
overlooking the Green River. The colors of the rocks and water were
vibrant.
We made our way to Park City, home of the Winter Olympics. For
the first time we felt the weather pushing us. When we arrived in
Park City we discovered Fall was in full swing. The trees were
turning all kinds of gorgeous colors.
We took a drive over the mountain along the back side of Park City
and saw autumn in all her colorful glory.
The weather began to take on the chill of winter, with nights getting
into the 20's. One morning we watched in amazement as a light rain
became a blizzard in a matter of minutes. Suddenly the surrounding
mountains were virgin white. The snow disappeared a few days later,
but we took the hint. It was time to head south towards central Utah.
Here we discovered the San Rafael Swell, an area just north of
Green River on I-70.