Kanab & Alton, UT – Whoa!!!

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Kanab and Alton, Utah

July 15-19 (and again August 21-26, 2008) - We left the cool pine

woods of the North Rim of the Grand Canyon in Arizona, and

descended into the flat, hot desert floor of Utah to the north.  Kanab,

Utah, is the only town of any size (pop. 3,800) between several

national parks:  Grand Canyon, Zion, Bryce Canyon and Grand

Staircase Escalante.

It is a charming community tucked up against a row of red

rock mountains.  At this time of year the town is loaded with

rental RVs and foreignors.  Groups of Europeans were

caravaning in their rental RVs, hanging the flags of their

homelands off their radio antennas and in the back windows.

Our weeks in the woods at

the North Rim had emptied

our shelves completely, so

we stayed for a few days to

replenish everything.  We

were fortunate that the

monsoons were still very

active.  Even though Kanab is

at 4,900 feet elevation, it was

blazing hot in the sunshine.

The cloud cover and

downpours in the

afternoons kept us

from sweltering.

Kanab's city park

features beautiful

gardens and a brand

new huge swimming

pool and water slide

that was packed to the

gills with happy kids all

day.  While we strolled among the flowers, the park's longtime caretaker

described the boisterous family fun of the Mormon Pioneer Days that are

celebrated with an enormous city-wide barbecue in the park's barbecue pit.

Hundred of kids and families spread out on the grass on the July 24th

weekend to celebrate the unique heritage of the Mormons who settled

Utah with great purpose in the mid-1800's.

Behind the park, Squaw

Trail climbs up a canyon

to heights way above the

city, passing steep red

rock walls along the way.

We clambered up the trail,

shouting "hello" at the

tops of our lungs as the

trail took us ever deeper

into the canyon.  I have

never heard such a

perfect echo with such a long time delay.  As we

shouted, it was as though the canyon walls were

shouting back at us, each word enunciated with

absolute clarity.

The bird's eye view of Kanab from the top of the

cliffs was worth the sweat we lost getting there.  We

had often hiked similar trails around Phoenix in the

olden days, but this trail was unique because it was

utterly quiet.  We didn't pass one other person on

the entire trail.  From the top of the mountain we

could hear the town's internal workings below:  a

tractor in a distant field, a motorcycle rumbling down

the main street, kids playing ball in a back yard.

The air around us was perfectly still, and these quiet

murmurs from the town's streets drifted slowly up to

us on sun-drenched air currents.

The rocks were every

shade of orange and

red.  Some faces were

rainbow streaked, with

stripes formed over the

ages, offering a full

array of orange-hued

swirls and bands.  As

we climbed back down,

we found furnace-hot

rock faces were now

baking the spots where

there had been cool

shade during our ascent.  The beauty filled our senses, but this red rock

desert environment is unforgivingly harsh in the sun.

The road leading north

out of Kanab is

stunning, without being

showy.  Crowded in

among tourists and

locals hurrying along

this busy stretch of

road, I caught myself

gaping at the exotic

cliffs that lined its

edges.

Over eons, the darker hues of

some red rocks have dripped

lazily down the lighter colored

cliffs, leaving dribbled stains on

the rock face like an old paint can.

August 21, 2008 - We saw a small

road on the map leading away

from the highway to a dot marked

"Alton."  Accepting this open

invitation into the hinterlands, we

hoped no cars would want to

share the one-lane road with our

behemoth truck and trailer as we

approached the town.  We arrived

unscathed, but found ourselves

hopping out of the truck each time

the power lines crossed the road,

worried that the buggy would snag its

roof on the low-hanging wires.

Tucked away, far from anything, amid

farmlands that stretch as far as the

eye can see, this picturesque tiny

town charmed us with its "Whoa" stop

signs and warm welcome from

people working in their yards.

We asked a man in a cowboy hat

where we might find a place to park

for the night, and he suggested the town hall parking lot.  "Really?"  we asked.  "I'm the mayor,

and it's okay with me!"  Another fellow, Paul, set his shovel aside for over an hour to chat with us

about the town and its history.  He told us the mayor, Claren Heaton, was the great-grandson of

the town's founder, and that the name of the town was drawn from a hat, back in 1908, by two-

year-old Gwen Heaton, as the citizens of the new town looked on.

He said it is not unusual to see a horse

strolling down the street, and that no one

minds.  With just 134 people in town,

there's no such thing as a strange face,

human or equine.  100% of the citizens

are Mormon, he said, adding, "probably

80% are related to each other too."

As we talked, Paul's fifth cousin three

times removed, Victor, pulled up.  He

parked his truck in the middle of the

road to join our conversation.  We

were on the main drag, and Mark and

I looked up nervously when a truck

approached in the distance.  Paul and

Victor laughed and assured us there was no need to move: the truck would go around us.

We watched in amazement as the man in the truck, marked "Sheriff," waved "hello" to our

little group, and then drove off the road into the dirt to get past.

We rode our bikes throughout

the town, utterly delighted with

the prettiness and happiness of

this little community.  We eagerly

jumped off the bikes every few

minutes to snap pictures.

Without being backward or old

fashioned, this miniscule hamlet

seemed untouched by the rest

of the world, living in peace, and

removed from time.

So we had to laugh when we discovered we had a wi-fi signal in the trailer.

But the joke was on us.  Mark popped off an email to his cousin, describing this wonderful town we'd discovered.  Almost instantly,

he received a reply, complete with a link to the Alton, Utah, website showing the long line of Claren Heatons' ancestors that had

been mayors of the town before him.  Mark's cousin also included a link to Alton's satellite photo on Google Earth, detailed enough

to see the shed next to where we were parked.

At peace, yes.  Removed from time, perhaps.  Out of touch, hardly!

We spent the summer of 2008 bebopping around southern Utah.  Two of our most heartwarming experiences were the

discoveries of two unusual Utah animal sanctuaries:  Best Friends Animal Sanctuary, a no-kill domestic animal sanctuary in

stunning Angel Canyon and the Southwest Wildlife Foundation which rehabilitates and reintroduces native fauna.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Parowan UT – Vermillion Castle and County Fair

Iron County Fair, Parowan, Utah Vermillion Castles in First Left Hand Canyon (Yankee Meadows Road), Parowan, Utah

We learned the "Vermillion Castles"

are not man-made

Yankee Meadows Reservoir in Parowan Canyon, Parowan, Utah

Yankee Meadows Reservoir in Parowan Canyon

Yankee Meadows Reservoir in Parowan Canyon, Parowan, Utah

A split rail fence lines the reservoir

Yankee Meadows Reservoir in Parowan Canyon, Parowan, Utah

One couple we met ate fresh-caught trout every night

Second Left Hand Canyon, Parowan, Utah

Our epic ride up 2nd Left Hand Rd was challenging

Second Left Hand Canyon, Parowan, Utah

Finally, we made it to the top

Rides at Iron Country Fair, Parowan, Utah

The Iron County Fair had something for everyone

More rides at Iron Country Fair, Parowan, Utah

Lots of thrills for young and old

Crafts on display at Iron Country Fair, Parowan, Utah Musical performance at Iron Country Fair, Parowan, Utah Clowns at Iron Country Fair, Parowan, Utah Petting Zoo at Iron Country Fair, Parowan, Utah Rodeo Queens at Iron Country Fair, Parowan, Utah

Mark discovered the Rodeo Royalty

Old folks playing horse shoes at Iron Country Fair, Parowan, Utah Iron Country Fair, Parowan, Utah is fun for everyone Iron Country Fair, Parowan, Utah tractor show Iron Country Fair, Parowan, Utah tractor show Tractor show at Iron Country Fair, Parowan, Utah Kids get fun rides at Iron Country Fair, Parowan, Utah

Nearby, the youngest crowd got to test the

driver's seat for the first time

Antique car show at Iron Country Fair, Parowan, Utah

The older "kids" showed off the muscle cars of their youth

Tractor show at Iron Country Fair, Parowan, Utah

Parowan, Utah: A Vermillion Castle and County Fair

August 26 - September 5, 2008 - After

visiting Kanab and Alton, UT, on the

eastern side of the mountains, we made the

heart-stopping climb and descent into Cedar

City and went on up the interstate to

Parowan.  We had heard there was great

boondocking somewhere in Parowan

Canyon but I couldn't figure out quite where

it was on the map.  We stopped in the

Visitors Center to get some help, and

discovered the town was hosting the fun-

filled Iron County Fair over Labor Day

weekend in just a few days.  Whie I was busy studying the maps and local photos of the

canyon to get my bearings, I barely noticed Mark saying, "Hey, there's a 5K race on Labor

Day.  Wanna do it?!"  I must have muttered something that sounded like agreement,

because the next thing I knew Mark had filled out the race forms and was reaching in his

wallet for the entry fee.

Part of my confusion about the

Parowan Canyon roads was that I

thought the "Vermillion Castle"

landmark would be a building -- a real castle!  Instead, it was a series of

red rock spires.  Also, we soon learned that although everyone in the

area knew exactly where Second Left Hand Road was located, there

was no road sign to help visitors find its tree limb-shrouded entrance.

We camped at

the top of the

canyon in a

scenic meadow

surrounded by

mountains.

One day we got the crazy idea to ride our bikes down 3,000 feet

into Parowan on paved First Left Hand Road and then climb back

up on the gravel 4x4 Second Left Hand Road.  The mere 16 miles

took us well over two hours, and we were pooped when we got to

the top.  I kept looking at my bike's odometer and telling myself, "3

mph is a very respectable speed!"  The views of Yankee Meadows

Reservoir at the top were well worth the effort, and we heard from

several sources that the fishing in the reservoir was excellent.

The Iron County Fair was a classic small town fair, and we wished we

had our little granddaughters with us.  As the mayor said to us days later

when we met him walking down Main Street, "It is a little piece of

Americana."  Attendance was much higher than in past years, perhaps

because people were staying home to save gas money.  The rides were

packed, the kettle corn was delicious, and there were events and prizes

for everything imagineable.

There was live

music and a vast display of beautifully crafted artworks, from crocheted

booties, to finely made quilts, to an elegant wedding dress, to Lego pirate

ships built by the kids, to pies, jams and cookies of all types, to

photographs of everything under the sun.  Blue ribbons abounded, and

they were all well deserved.

As we wandered the

fairgrounds, we met all

kinds of characters.

We are learning to be a

little more brazen in

taking photographs of

the fun people we

meet, and Mark

captured the fair's clowns, both two-

legged and four-legged, while I captured

Mark basking in the glow of the Rodeo

princesses, queens and attendants.

The horseshoe championships were hotly contested, with

professionals stepping up to expert throws, and the area was filled

with smiling people of all ages.  The tractor display showed farm

equipment of all types from an earlier age.  Mark spotted one built

when he was born in 1954 while another fellow noted one

built in his birth year, 1939.  We had lunch with the tractor

drivers, learning a little about that hobby while we munched

pizza, and we got to know Red, Basil and Alden, each of

whom we had either seen around town in previous days or

spent time with in the weeks following the fair.

There was a long train for

the toddlers that snaked

endlessly around the

fairgrounds.  The kids

alternated between

grinning with delight and

frowning in concentration

as they turned their

steering wheels around

each corner.  There were

cries everywhere of

"Mommy, can I ride in that?"  Meanwhile, the dads were busy admiring the muscle

cars on display, hoods up, chrome polished, each restored with loving care.

The fair went on for

three days, and we

returned on Labor

Day itself to watch

the parade down

Main Street.  There

were floats, dance

teams, horses, fire

engines, the Rodeo

Royalty on

horseback, local

politicians and candy and toothbrushes

thrown into the crowd.  Parowan is the heart of Mormon Pioneer history, as it was the first

community settled, even before Salt Lake, and several floats made proud reference to

that heritage.

We left the fair contented and smiling.  It had been a perfect day and weekend, the best

Labor Day that either of us could remember.  And -- oh yes -- we each placed 2nd in our

age group in the running race, and paid the price with sore joints for a few days

afterwards!

We recovered from our race in Cedar City where we watched the Great American

Stampede Horse Parade (some pics and notes on our "What's It Like?" page), and then

we made our way on to Pioche, Nevada, which felt to us like the true heart of the Wild

Wild West.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Best Friends Animal Sanctuary & Southwest Wildlife Foundation in Utah

Best Friends Animal Sanctuary

Reception Building

Avian greeters

Joey, Hyacinth Macaw

South America

Honey, Major Mitchell Cocaktoo

Australia

Seppi, Mollucan Cockatoo

native to Indonesia

Writes a column in the monthly magazine

Quetzl, Congo African Grey

Age 54 - the same as Mark!

Tika, Umbrella Cockatoo, native to Indonesia

"Angel Canyon"

The sanctuary sits on 5 stunning square miles

Rescued horses live in Horse Haven

Angel's Rest Cemetery

Cemetery plots for all the animals. No animals are

killed; most are fostered out to new homes; a lucky

few live out their days at the sanctuary.

The cat house at Best Friends Animal Sanctuary, Kanab, Utah

The cat house

Siesta time at the Cat House Best Friends Animal Sanctuary, Kanab, Utah

Siesta time

The Bunny House Best Friends Animal Sanctuary, Kanab, Utah At the Bunny House Best Friends Animal Sanctuary, Kanab, Utah

Bunny companionship

At the Bunny House Best Friends Animal Sanctuary, Kanab, Utah

All the bunnies, dogs and cats

have indoor/outdoor living

quarters, and they come and go

at will.

The Bunny House at Best Friends Animal Sanctuary, Kanab, Utah

Nothing like some soft green grass for your

campsite.

Dogtown Heights at Best Friends Animal Sanctuary, Kanab, Utah Southwest Wildlife Foundation

Martin Tyner & Thumper, a Harris Hawk

22 years old, reaches speeds of 100 mph

Igor, a Prairie Falcon Southwest Wildlife Foundation

Igor, a Prairie Falcon

Dives for prey at 200 mph

Scout, a Golden Eagle Southwest Wildlife Foundation

Scout, a Golden Eagle

Can spot a yummy rabbit from 5 miles away.

Golden Eagle: 7 lbs and 7,000 feathers Southwest Wildlife Foundation

Golden Eagle: 7 lbs and 7,000 feathers

Can reach altitudes of 35,000 feet

and hurtle towards earth at 145 mph

Raptors - Southwest Wildlife Foundation

Each raptor got many hugs during the seminar.

A different golden eagle was released later that day

from an overlook in Cedar City, UT.

Utah Sanctuaries: Best Friends & Southwest Wildlife Foundation

July 15-19, 2008 - Kanab, Utah sits squarely between three of

the greatest national parks in the US, and we stopped there,

along with everyone else, for supplies, water and haircuts.  We

didn't intend to stay, but as we were leaving town we saw a cute

sign that said "Best Friends Animal Sanctuary" with an arrow

pointing down a winding road that seemed to go deep into a

canyon.  We couldn't resist the temptation and took that turn.

Four days later we finally emerged!!

Best Friends is a unique,

extraordinarily well-funded and

beautiful no-kill animal shelter.

It sits on 5 square miles of

exotic red rock canyon and

houses 2,000 animals.  Their

mission is to find homes for all

the animals that are adoptable, while the rest are allowed to live out their days in the loving care

of an enormous staff.  The grounds and landscaping alone are worth seeing, but it was the

many tours of the various animal areas that kept us in that canyon so long.

I am a bird lover, and the parrot garden is a treat.  On

summer days, all the parrots are kept in outdoor enclosures under a canopy of huge shade

trees near a pretty waterfall feature.  Visitors are invited to interact with the parrots, and we

spent many happy hours entertaining and being entertained by these squawking, talking,

feathered comedians.  The parrots' nighttime quarters

are indoors, so twice a day during the summer months

the bird caretakers do the Parrot Parade, carrying each

bird between its indoor enclosure and its outdoor

enclosure.  On the hottest summer afternoons the

caretakers walk around misting the birds with water

sprayers to help them stay cool.  What a life!

An important

theme at the

sanctuary is

positive

interactions

between the

animals and

people.  All the tours are free, and you can

volunteer to stick around and work with your

favorite animals for as little as a few hours or

for as long as you want to stay.  There are

cabins and a tiny RV park in the canyon to

accommodate volunteers, and many return

for a week or two every year.

Seppi, a Mollucan cockatoo, likes to walk

along the underside of the

roof of his cage, hanging

upside down and talking to

you.  Quetzl, a quiet

African Grey, was hatched

in 1954 but doesn't look a

day over five.  Tika, an

Umbrella cockatoo, was

summering at the sanctuary

while his owner took care of

some personal challenges.

He was accustomed to a lot

of attention, so he was happy

to climb into my arms and get

some free cuddles for a while.

The canyon, officially "Kanab Canyon" but affectionately called "Angel Canyon," is a

dramatic gorge lined with towering red rock cliffs.  Most sanctuary tours require a

shuttlebus ride of a few miles from the reception building out into the rest of the

property: Dogtown Heights, the Cat House, Feathered Friends and the Bunny House.

The drive along the cliff's edges is stunning, and we passed some

of the sanctuary horses who live a charmed life, grazing in peace

while gazing at multi-million dollar views.

Angel's Rest cemetery is along this road as well.  Every animal that dies at the

shelter is buried here with a headstone.  There are tiny plots for the little birds and

big plots for the large farm animals.  Even horses, goats and cows are adopted out

to new homes, whenever possible, and the video shown hourly at the reception

building included snapshots of many happy people who had become loving owners

of goats, sheep and other farm animals.

Most of the animal

buildings are built with

wings that provide an

indoor shelter with a

doorway the animals can

pass through to reach an

outdoor shelter.  At the

cat house, the outdoor areas include ladders, pillowed perches, and a

lattice-work of planks and shelving near the ceiling.  Litter boxes, food

and water dishes are discreetly placed in these out-of-reach alcoves.

Looking up, all we could see was the

odd paw or tail hanging down from

the lofty hideaways.  It was siesta

time, and all the cats were happily

dozing.

The bunnies have indoor/outdoor

housing as well, and since bunnies

like to cuddle, many had a stuffed

bunny to snuggle up to.  Outside, one bunny

was working very hard digging a hole, while a

few others were taking a load off under little

tent-like canopies that offered cool shade in a

lush bed of soft green grass.

Dogtown was a busy barking array of buildings.  Most of the

dogs from Michael Vicks' dog-fighting operation had just been

rescued, and many dogs from Katrina were still in transition

here.  We heard amazing stories of animal rescues.  One lady

had 200 guinea pigs living in her 10' x 10' kitchen, and another

wacko had 1,600 rabbits in her back yard.  1,000 cats were

taken from a crazy lady's home in Pahrump, Nevada, and as I

heard the tale from a caretaker I remembered reading about it in

the Pahrump newspaper when we visited eight months earlier.

All those cats, rabbits and guinea pigs had passed through Best

Friends to new owners or were still at the sanctuary hoping for

new homes.

Before an animal is adopted out, it must go on an overnight stay to ensure that it is a well-behaved

propsective pet.  Visitors can volunteer for these overnight stays, without obligation, at Parry Lodge in

Kanab.  If the animal flunks the test, it simply gets a little more loving at the sanctuary, as the caretakers

work to improve its manners.

August 30, 2008 - In Parowan, Utah, at the Iron

County State Fair, we attended a fantastic

demonstration and talk by Martin Tyner, founder

of Southwest Wildlife Foundation.  His

sanctuary focuses on rehabilitating native

creatures and returning them to the wild.  It was

my understanding that Rocky Mountain Power

Company has recently donated a huge, multi-million dollar parcel of land

to this sanctuary.  Eventually, once money is raised for land

improvements and building construction, this foundation could become

for native wildlife what Best Friends already is for more domesticated

animals.

He had three raptors with him:  a Harris Hawk, a Prairie Falcon and a

Golden Eagle.  He is a Master Falconer, and although he uses each of these

particular birds for education purposes, he takes them all out hunting on a

regular basis to keep their natural instincts sharp.  His job is to flush out rabbits

and other prey from the desert brush so the raptors can catch their meals.  They

fly free, and they fly high, happy to have a trained human to take the guesswork

out of finding dinner.

He told us of the highly aggressive nature of the Prairie Falcon, a slim bird that

screamed periodically throughout his talk.  A few years back he had rescued and

rehabilitated a particularly aggressive female that had deserved her nickname

"Horrible."  He released her into the desert near Cedar City, and she became a

great mom and has raised several clutches of young since then.  But she's oh-

so-smart.  She recognizes his truck from their many hunting outings together

when she was in his care.  Now, when he brings other raptors into the desert to

hunt, she goes out of her way to tease and harrass him.  One time, as he stood

with his arm outstretched waiting for his raptor to return to him, she dived

at him from the other direction, knocking him to the ground six feet away!

At the moment of impact, he suddenly understood exactly the kind of

blood-draining terror that rabbits feel when a Prairie Falcon singles them

out for a lunch date.

He invited everyone at the talk to come out to the highest ridge in Cedar

City later that afternoon to witness his release of a Golden Eagle back

into the wild.  We didn't attend, but he said that whenever he releases a

bird he welcomes spectators, so hopefully we will watch a release

another time.  He told us that the local Paiute Indians have a special

relationship with Golden Eagles.  They believe that if you say a prayer

over an eagle feather, the prayer will

be carried directly to God.  The Golden

Eagle being released that afternoon

was going to carry prayers for more

than 4,000 local cancer victims, the "down winders" in southern Utah who contracted cancer as a

direct result of the Cold War era nuclear testing carried out next door in Nevada.

Unrelated to these two wonderful animal sanctuaries in Utah, I recently discovered that Bird

Lovers Only Rescue in Dyer, Indiana has a very funny movie clip of a lesser sulphur crested

cockatoo dancing to the beat of the Backstreet Boys here.  It puts a smile on my face every time I

watch it.

We spent the summer of 2008 bee-bopping around souther Utah, and one of the most eye-

popping stops was at the majestic Bryce Canyon National Park.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Bryce Canyon, UT – Fairyland of Pink Turrets

Inspiration Point overlooking Bryce Ampitheater

Inspiration Point overlooking Bryce Ampitheater

Bryce Canyon Point

Bryce Canyon Point

Smiles everywhere at Bryce Canyon

Smiles everywhere

Stunning views at Bryce Canyon, Utah Stunning views at Bryce Canyon, Utah

Natural symmetry

Stunning views at Bryce Canyon, Utah

The regularity and precision of

these formations can be dizzying.

Trees cling to the rim at Bryce Canyon, Utah

Trees cling to the rim

Bryce Canyon Ampitheater

Bryce Ampitheater

Rim views, Bryce Canyon, Utah Beginning of Queen's Garden hike Bryce Canyon, Utah

Beginning of Queen's Garden hike

The spires give way to a smooth, orange and red moonscape at Bryce Canyon, Utah

The spires give way to a smooth, orange and red

moonscape

Bryce Canyon, Utah

Trees from another planet

Queen's Garden Bryce Canyon, Utah

End of the trail -- at Queen's

Garden

Nature's Wall Street at Bryce Canyon, Utah

Nature's Wall Street

Looking down from the top of the Wall Street switchbacks at Bryce Canyon, Utah

The top of the Wall Street switch backs

Bryce Canyon, Utah Bryce Lodge has many cute cabins for guests

Bryce Lodge has many cute cabins for guests

The Peek-a-boo hike at Bryce Canyon defies nature's laws and seems to ascend for the entire loop.

The Peek-a-boo hike defies nature's laws and seems

to ascend for the entire loop.

Serenity along the hiking trails at Bryce Canyon

Serenity

Spires and spikey trees surrounded us at Bryce Canyon, Utah

Spires and spikey trees surrounded

us

Peek-a-boo, the namesake of the Peek-a-boo trail at Bryce Canyon

Peek-a-boo

Seeming chess pieces at Bryce Canyon

At times it seemed as though we were wandering

among towering chess pieces.

Stunning view at Bryce Canyon, Utah

A promontory hangs into the canyon for an awe

inspiring view.  A good place to take a breather!

Tunnels and arches at Bryce Canyon, Utah

Little tunnels and hobbit doorways invite the hiker to

vast views on the other side.

Bryce Canyon National Park, Utah

July 20-August 20, 2008 - We had

arrived in the lower elevations of

Kanab, UT and visited Best

Friends Animal Sanctuary,

during a peak week of monsoon

activity.  Monsoons are a

southwest phenomenon that give

the desert's much needed

moisture and relief from the heat

in mid-summer.  I had learned

about them living in Arizona, but

had never known that they could

spread their salve as far north as

southern Utah and even over into

southern Colorado.  It is magic to

watch the sky cloud over promptly

at noon every day, and there is a

lusciousness to being drenched

by brief downpours every

afternoon.  These storms leave

the air crisp and clear, and they

keep the ferocious heat to a minimum.  Once the monsoons abated, we

found ourselves in an oven, baking by noon, and burnt to a crisp by

evening.  Full of energy at the break of day, we were lethargic sloths by

nightfall.  It was time to get back to the higher elevations.  We left Kanab

for Ruby's Inn, a settlement just outside of Bryce Canyon National Park at

7,500 feet.

Bryce Canyon

is a wonderland of pink and white

spires, laid out with amazing

symmetry.  The open bowl of

crystalline formations carved from

the surrounding flat plains

resembles an ampitheater.  The

man who first ranched the area

around Rubys Inn in the 1800's

had no idea the canyon was just

beyond his land.  Imagine the

look on his face when, at the

suggestion of a knowledgeable

neighbor, he took his family on an

excursion to the rim!  It is a place that evokes smiles

in everyone, and as we rode the shuttle bus to the

view points and walked the many trails that lead

along the edge and down into the canyon, I was

struck by how happy everyone was.  Children love

this place.

We walked along the Rim, from

Bryce Point to Inspiration Point,

and watched a fantastic summer

thunderstorm creep over the

valley until we had to run for

cover ourselves.  This land was

carved by a divine hand using the

tools of wind and rain to erode the

rock into fantastic formations.  I

was awed by the regularity of the

carvings.  Rows upon rows of

spires stand in perfect military

formation.

At the top the

trees cling to the rim for dear life,

their roots clawing at the

crumbling gravel as their

branches wave ominously in the

breeze, threatening to rip the

trees from the edge.  At the

bottom the trees pierce the air

above them, the dark green

spikes contrasting with the

orange and white striped spears

of rock.

We hiked down into the canyon to

the Queen's Garden.  As you descend on this hike,

the land becomes otherworldly.  Between the spires,

the land forms smooth, rounded slopes and the

trees are short and twisted.  The noise of the

tourists at the rim fades away behind you and the

solitude and odd surroundings seem like a

moonscape.  The emotional

anchor of the ordinary looking

grassy fields and ranches that

surround Bryce Canyon

disappear from view, and you

find yourself on the moon, or

mars, looking up at the red rock

spires, repeating the mantra:

"Wow!"

The gravel path winds in and out

of the spires, abandoning one

spectacular sight as it takes a

sharp turn around a bend

towards another.  We walked

through several doorways and

tunnels, emerging from each to

find ourselves staring at yet

another splendid work of art by

Nature.  People linger on these

trails. Llittle groups and pairs line

themselves up for photos, posing

all over this spectacular setting.

Cameras are handed around

trustingly between strangers in

order to get everyone in each

group into the pictures.  "I'll take

one for you if you'll take one for

me," is the phrase of the day,

sometimes said in broken English,

and often accompanied with gestures and sign language.  Cameras are all

shapes and sizes.  "Just press the button."  Lots of nodding and pointing.

Everyone is grinning.  None of us can wait to show these pictures to our

friends back home.  All the photos turn out great.

At the very bottom we came to a plaque that showed us

Queen Victoria.  This was the Queen's Garden.  She is

at the tippy top of a spire.  She looks very regal, and

very wee.  In time she will erode away and be replaced

by other shapes.  Looking around at the other hoodoo

rock formations, we made out a medieval friar and a

great horned owl to accompany the queen.

We had descended about a thousand feet and had to

climb back up again to the rim.  We chose the route that

goes through Wall Street, where the red rock walls

close around you like skyscrapers but much closer.  A

switchback trail takes you up until you look way down

on the tiny pine trees at the base.  Then you climb

higher til the people seem mere specks.  Your heart

pounds from the exertion of climbing

straight up, and when you reach the

top the view takes your breath away

yet again.

We wandered along the rim and met

a little girl holding a camera that was

as big as she was.  What a smile she

had as that camera clicked away.

The Bryce Canyon Lodge is the

oldest original National Park lodge still

standing; the others at Yellowstone,

Grand Canyon and the rest all

succombed to fire at one time or

another and were rebuilt.  Bryce isn't immune to

wildfires, however, and there were many "prescribed

burns" in action while we were there as the Park Service

attempted to keep the woods thinned so they wouldn't

be prone to future fires.

We spent a few days riding our bikes and hiking in the

areas away from Bryce Canyon and then returned to do

the Peek-a-boo hike.  We were both surprised at how

the grins came back to our faces and the "wow" formed

on our lips again as soon as we walked up to the rim.

What a place.

We had no idea why the Peek-a-boo hike has its name,

and we descended into the canyon away from the

crowds wondering what laid

ahead.

Once again, as we walked down

into the canyon, we felt an

almost physical sensation cloak

our bodies as the immense quiet and peace of this place enveloped us.

Suddenly, we looked up at a wall of spires and saw one hole, and then

another.  "So that's why it's called Peek-a-boo!"  Mark said, mugging for

the camera.  We walked with our heads up and our eyes on the peaks,

tripping occasionally.  But you can't look down on this hike, even as you

stumble.

The trail

twisted and turned and double-backed on itself between formations.  I

felt like a rat in a maze, or a child stomping around on an enormous

chessboard.

We did a lot of climbing on this hike, more than seemed physically

possible for a loop hike.  Mark walked faster than I did (he didn't

bring his camera and mine kept slowing me down!), and I turned a

corner and looked up to see him happily surveying the view from

an ideal vantage point.  Once I caught up to him we sat together

for a moment.

When we turned to continue on, we were facing a little doorway.  As we passed through the door

to the glittering view on the other side, I felt like Dorothy as she steps out of her Kansas house

into the colorful Land of OZ.

After a few weeks at our "ranch

house" outside of Bryce Canyon,

among the cattle, ponderosa pines

and pronghorn, overlooking grazing

lands that stretched to the horizon,

we felt like it was home.  Our TV got

great NBC reception, so we stayed to

watch most of the Beijing Olympics.  It

was very hard to tear ourselves away,

but eventually the day came, and

once we hit the road, the excitement

of discovering new places propelled us forward and made us eager to

leave.  We bumped into the sweet village of Alton and gradually made

our way over the mountains to Parowan and Cedar City.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Zion NP, Kodachrome Basin & Snow Canyon, UT – Great Red Rocks!

Chukar at Kodachrome State Park, Utah Kodachrome State Park, Utah Ballerina Leg at Kodachrome State Park, Utah

Ballerina Leg

Chukar at Kodachrome State Park, Utah Soft sandstone at Kodachrome State Park, Utah Zion National Park, Utah Zion National Park, Utah Zion National Park, Utah Zion National Park, Utah Zion National Park, Utah Zion National Park, Utah Zion National Park, Utah Zion National Park, Utah Zion National Park, Utah Snow Canyon State Park, St. George Utah

Snow Canyon

Snow Canyon State Park, St. George Utah

Snow Canyon

Zion NP, Kodachrome, & Snow Canyon, UT

October 7-19, 2007 - From Goblin Valley we took the gorgeous scenic

byway along Route 12 through Torrey, Capitol Reef National Park, and

Escalante to Kodachrome Basin State Park.  Like all the Utah state park

campgrounds, this one was lovely.  There was a flock of chukars (birds

closely related to the quail) that

wandered about the grounds happily

taking food from my hand.

We hiked the Panorama Point View trail,

soaking in the immense redrock

formations.  Several had cute names,

including Ballerina Leg, which truly

looked like a ballerina's leg.

Sandstone is very soft, and we found

a huge sandstone rock that other visitors had

rubbed.  It was fun to put your hand in the handprint

in the rock and rub.  The rock would granulate into

sand beneath your fingertips.

From Kodachrome Basin we headed over

to Zion National Park.  Because we were

towing the trailer and we were 52 feet from

end to end, we opted to approach the park

from the west side rather than taking the

really cool twisting road in from the east.  So we didn't see the

amazing rock formations that flank the roads on the eastern side.

However, once we arrived at Zion we took an exquisite bike ride along

the bike path that leads into the park.  The road into the main canyon

is closed to motorized vehicles, and we thrilled to the mammoth cliffs

on either side of us as we rode deep into the canyon.

There was an organized bike

ride going through Zion a few

days after we did our bike

ride.  It would be fun to be

part of a large crowd of

cyclists taking over this pretty

road through the park, but we

enjoyed the solitude of riding

by ourselves beneath the

towering spires.  We had a

perfect day with warm

temperatures, clear blue

skies and lots of flowers in

bloom.

We were continuing to press on

southwards, barely staying ahead

of the winter weather behind us.  At

Snow Canyon State Park we found

another delightful campground

where we tucked ourselves right up

against the redrocks.  We rode our

bikes on the beautiful park road

and looped through some pretty

new masterplanned neighborhoods

on the outskirts of St. George.

At last it was time to leave

Utah.  We decided we would

return in the Spring of 2008,

as we had barely touched

upon the areas we wanted to

see.  In the meantime,

however, the cold was

forcing us out, and we drove

south to the outskirts of Las

Vegas, Nevada, where we

found the spectacular Valley

of Fire State Park.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Goblin Valley, UT – Where the Ghosts Are

Goblin Valley, Utah The Greeters at Goblin Valley, Utah Campground at Goblin Valley, Utah Campground at Goblin Valley, Utah Dribble castles make up the rock formations at Goblin Valley, Utah Goblin Valley, Utah Goblin Valley, Utah Goblin Valley, Utah Goblin Valley, Utah Goblin Valley, Utah

Sea turtle

Goblin Valley, Utah

Mushroom

Goblin Valley, Utah

Gorilla head

Goblin Valley, Utah

Space ship taking off

Goblin Valley, Utah

Ducks

Little Wild Horse Canyon, Utah Little Wild Horse Canyon, Utah Little Wild Horse Canyon, Utah Little Wild Horse Canyon, Utah Little Wild Horse Canyon, Utah Little Wild Horse Canyon, Utah

Goblin Valley & Little Wild Horse Canyon, Utah

October 1-6, 2007 - Continuing south from the San Rafael Swell, we

stopped in at Goblin Valley, Utah.  This state park is a gem.  As you

arrive you are welcomed by a trio of goblins who stand apart from the

valley, greeting visitors with otherworldly expressions.  Beyond them an

enormous formation dominates the flat horizon, looking like a bright red

gothic cathedral.

The campground is nestled into the buttresses of the redrock

cathedral, with shade ramadas at each site.

The rock formations are very tall and imposing, but when you walk up

close to them you discover that much of their structure is like a sand

dribble castle kids make at the beach.  The sandstone is literally

dripping down the sides of the formation and it is very delicate to the

touch.  Tap it lightly and it sounds hollow.  Touch it any more forcefully

and it breaks off.

We wandered

down into the

actual Valley of

the Goblins, a

fantastic open area of redrock formations that look like creatures.  We

learned that these formations evolve in the same way as the arches do

at Arches National Park, but in this neck of the woods the result is

goblins instead of arches.

You are allowed to climb on the goblins, and they stand two to three

times human height, making a great climbing playground.  As we

walked down into the valley a little kid rocketed past us yelling, "This is

heaven!"

Many of the formations are recognizable shapes....

One day we hiked

the Little Wild Horse Slot Canyon.  This is

an 8 mile hike but only about an hour of it is

spent in the slot canyon.  The slot canyon

was very narrow.  At times the gravel path

was wide enough for just one foot at a time.

But it wasn't scary at all.

The canyon is wide open to the sky

above, and the narrow portions last

only a few feet.   Don't hike these

things when rain threatens, because

the water gushes through.  After a

rain it takes a few days for the water

in the slot canyon to subside.

Feeling a chill in the air in Goblin Valley, we made our way towards southern

Utah along the incomparable Scenic Route 12, stopping first at Kodachrome

Basin and then riding our bikes through Zion National Park.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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San Rafael Swell, UT – Pictographs & Dinosaur Prints

San Rafael Swell, Utah San Rafael Swell, Utah Pictographs, San Rafael Swell, Utah Pictographs, San Rafael Swell, Utah Pictographs, San Rafael Swell, Utah Petroglyphs, San Rafael Swell, Utah Petroglyphs, San Rafael Swell, Utah Dinosaur footprint fossil, San Rafael Swell, Utah Burros on Jackass Flats, San Rafael Swell, Utah Burros on Jackass Flats San Rafael Swell, Utah Spotted Wolf Pass, Utah Spotted Wolf Pass, Utah

San Rafael Swell, Utah

September 25-30, 2007 - We rushed south to get away from the snow

and cold in Park City and found the perfect temperatures in the Green

River area.  The San Rafael Swell is a vast area of redrocks and desert

brush that we explored for several days.  The rock cliffs are enormous.

We found rock faces that sported pictographs painted by ancient

peoples 2000 years ago.  Pictographs are made using some kind of

paint on the rock, but it impregnates the rock face enough to last over

thousands of years.  It may have been made using saliva or blood.

The images were mystical.  The people were tall and thin with

garments that reached to the ground.  It was hard to tell what they

were doing, but in one image all the people had holes pecked in their

chests.  Apparently the holes were pecked deliberately, though

researchers don't know what they represented.

We also found petroglyphs chiseled in the rocks by ancient peoples

1000 years ago.  The images were a little more real-life.  Elk and big

horn sheep were easy to distinguish.

One image was a little mystifying,

however:  the figure had four

fingers, three toes, antennae and

either a tail or a shield in the other

hand.  There is graffiti around

many of these rock images, and

the poor quality of the modern rock

doodles makes it clear that the

rock artists spent some time and

had some skill in making these

images last.

Further on we found a dinosaur

track (the guidebook helped us

find it!).  Whatever type of

dinosaur it belonged to was very good sized.  Mark's hand

disappeared into the footprint.

We drove through an area called "Jackass Flats" and, sure

enough, we saw three burros nibbling the grass.  They came right

over to us to check us out.  Eventually they decided we weren't all

that interesting, and they wandered off.

Back out on I-70 we stopped at the north end of Spotted Wolf

Pass.  It took 13 years to build this portion of I-70 through the

rock cliffs.  It takes five minutes to drive through it.

From there we dropped down to Goblin Valley, Utah.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Flaming Gorge Utah – Vibrant Hues

Flaming Gorge Utah - Green River

Flaming Gorge - Green River

Flaming Gorge National Park Utah

Flaming Gorge National Park

Flaming Gorge National Park Utah

Flaming Gorge

Back side of Park City, Utah in Fall.

Back side of Park City in Fall.

Back side of Park City, Utah in Fall. Back side of Park City, Utah in Fall. Back side of Park City, Utah in Fall. Back side of Park City, Utah in Fall. Back side of Park City, Utah in Fall.

Sunrise over the snowy ski runs -- in September!!

Northern Utah

Leaving northern Utah for warmer places south.

Flaming Gorge National Park & Park City, Utah

September 18-24, 2007 - We left South Dakota's Black Hills and

headed west through Wyoming and south to Utah.  We stopped at

Flaming Gorge National Park, a stunning area of red rock cliffs

overlooking the Green River.  The colors of the rocks and water were

vibrant.

We made our way to Park City, home of the Winter Olympics.  For

the first time we felt the weather pushing us.  When we arrived in

Park City we discovered Fall was in full swing.  The trees were

turning all kinds of gorgeous colors.

We took a drive over the mountain along the back side of Park City

and saw autumn in all her colorful glory.

The weather began to take on the chill of winter, with nights getting

into the 20's.  One morning we watched in amazement as a light rain

became a blizzard in a matter of minutes.  Suddenly the surrounding

mountains were virgin white.  The snow disappeared a few days later,

but we took the hint.  It was time to head south towards central Utah.

Here we discovered the San Rafael Swell, an area just north of

Green River on I-70.