San Diego Treats – Balboa and Sunset Cliffs

Balboa Park Palm and Flowers

Flowers abound at Balboa Park

Fall, 2013 – Living on San Diego’s beautiful shores is a true delight, not only becuase there is always so much going on, but because it is so close to all that San Diego has to offer.

One of the prettiest places in the city is Balboa Park, and we enjoyed several wonderful excusrions there.

Balboa Park Lilly Pond

The Lilly Pond at Balboa Park

Balboa Park is a big city park filled with all kinds of flora and fauna along with several miles of hiking trails.

Balboa Pond Koi Fish

A koi fish swims past

Perhaps the most lovely area is around the koi fish pond where there are some beautiful old buildings and some very colorful koi fish swimming just below the surface.

This is a great place to take a stroll and soak in a little sunshine and relaxation.

Balboa Park Pond Reflections

Reflected beauty at Balboa Park

Balboa Park Flower

Of course, it is a city park and, on the day we were there, a fellow was spouting bible verses and personal philosophies at very high volume, echoing his thoughts about life off the walls of the stone building at the top of his lungs, pontificating to anyone that would stop and listen.

I listened for a few minutes but couldn’t make heads or tails out of what he was saying!

Lilies in lily pond

However, the water was utterly still, and as clear as could be, creating lovely reflections.

The pretty lilies floating between the pads seemed to smile up at the world.

A hummingbird flitting between the many flowers added his own buzz to the air.

A beautiful indoor botanical garden fills one of the buildings near the koi fish pond, and a meander through there took us past all kinds of exotic flowers.

 

Hummingbird

A hummingbird checks out the flowers too

This reminded us so much of our extraordinary visit to the orchards and gardens of Hagia Sofia near Huatulco, Mexico last winter.

We both contented ourselves for quite a while taking photos of the colorful display.

Heart shaped leaves

Bullseye hearts…

There is a kind of romance to the area, and we both had to laugh when we saw several plants that had leaves shaped like swirling hearts.

 

Em and M in flowers

Amid the orchids

We were happy when someone offered to take a picture of us amid the orchids!!

Other people hired professional photographers to take their portraits around the beautiful grounds of Balboa Park.

Portraits in Balboa Park

Professional photographers were taking portraits everywhere!

We admired more than a few professional camera setups, with big flashes, lighting umbrellas, enormous lenses and teams of assistants helping out.

Quniceanera

A young girl at her Quincenera

And more than once we turned a corner to see a portrait shot that would soon be framed.

We even saw a young Mexican girl in the midst of a Quinceañera photo shoot, all dressed up for her special 15th birthday party.  This was like so many others we had seen in Mexico, especially in Ensenada and Morelia.

12 Balboa Park Organ Concert 481

One of the most unusual attractions in Balboa Park is the enormous outdoor organ.

When the organ was donated to the park by John and Adolph Spreckels in 1914, the one stipulation was that it be played for outdoor concerts, and since 1917 San Diego has had a civic organist who performs free weekly concerts on Sundays.

While we were there a small audience gathered in front of the organ, taking shade under colorful umbrellas.  Before long, the enormous rolling door opened to reveal the huge organ pipes.  The 4500+ pipes range in size from as small as a pencil to as big as 32 feet high!

A woman walked out on stage and began an hour-long concert.

13 Ocean Beach Hippie Hostel 531

The hostel at Ocean Beach – Peace Baby!!

Wow.  That is quite a musical instrument!

Unfortunately, she chose some really chaotic sounding modern music to play, and as we walked away we could hear the cacophany of clashing chords far into the corners of the park.

Oh well.  We’ll have to return on another day when the performer chooses something a little more melodic and soothing!!

Balboa Park is situated right downtown.  To the north of the city there are several big beach communities, and one of the most notable is Ocean Beach, a hippie seaside town that has decided to remain firmly planted in the 1960’s.

The prominent hostel is painted a kaleidescope of groovy colors and sports a big peace sign on its rooftop.

14 Ocean Beach Tumblebug 431

A tumble bug!

Walking down the street, the smell of patchouli incense wafted out of the doorways of several head shops.

Oddly, this wasn’t a town of pony-tailed grey-hairs who used to be hippies in their youth, but instead was loaded with younger folks who are embracing the hippie way today.

Even though Starbucks has come to town, we noticed that the only identifying feature on the outside of the building was the circular green logo.

Down an allyway, Mark spotted a tumble bug.  Far out!

 

15 Woodie 451

You never know what you’ll see rolling down the street…

California has such a great car culture.  Something exotic always seems to be cruising past, and I just barely caught this low-riding woody as it sped by.

Mark on Stand-up paddleboard

Mark tries out a standup paddle board
at the Hobie open house

One day we had a chance to try out cruising of another kind.  The local Hobie dealership hosted an open house, and all their water toys were lined up at the docks. We could try out anything that seemed appealing!

We’d never tried standup paddle boarding before, and we both got a big kick out of it.

A few days later at nearby Torrey Pines we watched a really skilled stand-up paddle-boarder carve through the surf. So that’s how you do it!

Torrey Pines Surfing

A pro shows us how it’s done

Sunset Cliffs is a series of craggy cliffs nearby, and we scampered over these rugged rocks to check out the tidepools one afternoon.

This is a photogenic area, and there were photographers everywhere trying to capture the beauty.

Sunset Cliffs Staircase

The staircase down to the sea at Sunset Cliffs

As we climbed down the endless stairs at one viewpoint, a pair of young photographers with mammoth cameras and lighting gear were coming up the stairs towards us.

Tucked between the two of them was a young barefoot woman with a bare torso and bare legs. She was clutching a woolly sheepskin to her chest.

Sunset Cliffs Tidepools

Sunset Cliffs has some exquisite tidepools

As we got closer, it didn’t look like she had much clothing on besides this piece of sheepskin.  Sure enough, after she passed us we noticed there was nothing covering her backside!

I guess they were doing modeling shots at the water’s edge “au natural!”

Sunset Cliffs Rock Island

Surf at Sunset Cliffs

Pelicans in formation

Pelicans fly in formation

We stuck to photographing Nature itself and looked up to see a group of pelicans flying in formation overhead.

Well, not everything around here was pure nature. As the pelicans disappeared over the horizon, three Navy helicopters flew in formation in the opposite direction.

Helicopters in formation

Helicopters fly in formation

Sunset Cliffs is beautiful in broad daylight, but the place really comes to life as the sun begins to drop out of the sky.

The cliffs face west, and just before the sky begins to turn colors, cars begin to arrive and people begin to mill around the edges of the cliffs to take in the sunset.

Sunset at Sunset Cliffs

People gather to watch the sun disappear at Sunset Cliffs

Some couples bring chairs or stand close to each other and stare off at the horizon.  Some folks take out their cameras and wait for the magic moment.  And a few others do yoga and tai-chi moves.

However it is that they all say goodbye to the day, there is a shared awe and respect among everyone at the cliffs’ edge as they look out over the ocean to watch the sun’s light show and welcomes the arrival of night.

Sunset at Sunset Cliffs

We are rewarded with a humdinger of a sunset!

As fall slipped towards winter, we had been living in San Diego aboard our sailboat Groovy for four months. Much as this beautiful city and lifestyle enchanted us, our eyes were now turning towards our new land-based life that would soon begin 350 miles inland in Arizona.

 

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Our beloved sailboat Groovy is For Sale

On San Diego’s Shores – Dolphins and more!

Fishing on Shelter Island

Not a bad spot to go fishing!

Fall, 2013 – I was standing on Shelter Island one morning, gazing out at the water and the San Diego skyline and watching the fishermen casting their lines while boats breezed by.

Suddenly, a fellow standing next to me said, “You know, I’ve lived in San Diego for 56 years, and I watched that skyline develop.”

He went on: “There used to be just one tall building there, and now you can’t even see it because there are so many others all around it. But I have to say, I think San Diego has the pretties skyline of any city.”

 

Shelter Island Tree

San Diego Bay

I had to agree. There is something about the shapes and colors of the buildings and the way they catch the light in the afternoons that is so apealing.

And the great thing about this city is that you can play outdoors in fairly warm temps all year long.

Kid in a sailboat sculpture

Lots of kids get an early start learning
to sail in San Diego

As summer melted into fall, we did have to wear an extra layer of clothing, but the fishermen continued to fish at the water’s edge and the sailors continued to play with the wind in the bay.

Lots of sailors get an early start at a young age here, and down at the San Diego Yacht Club there is a wonderful statue of a little kid in a sailboat.

Out on the water in Mission Bay, we saw a sailing class, or maybe a race, cruising past us one morning.

Optimas at Mission Bay

Learning to sail on Mission Bay

Some lucky little kids get to take their first steps on a boat, and so it was with our very young neighbor.

His parents Eric and Christi had done a two year cruise around the world on a Nordhavn 43 power yacht a few years back.

After returning to San Diego to restock their cruising kitty, they had a baby, and they now have plans to cruise to the South Pacific in a few years, once their baby’s sea legs have grown a little sturdier.

born to cruise

Born to cruise!

They had never sailed overnight or offshore before that journey, and their first offshore voyage took them straight from San Diego to the Marquesas, a 3000 mile, three week long trip!

One of the advantages of cruising in a power boat is that you don’t have to worry about which way the wind blows.

So, unlike sailboats that cross the Pacific by dropping down south into Mexico first before they leave the North American coast, these guys just motored out of San Diego Bay and kept right on going!

 

Rocket Science leaves San Diego 601

s/v Rocket Science heads south

We loved meeting all the sailors on the docks that had cruised to distant shores.

Our next door neighbor Brian had cruised to New Zealand ten years ago, and friends of ours, TJ and Jenny, had cruised the Caribbean extensively.

They had done that cruise on a solid, older boat, but after a while grew frustrated at its slow pace.

Why plod when you can soar, they wondered. So they upgraded to a true racer-cruiser — s/v Rocket Science — that can sail at blistering speeds, and they plan to take her on new adventures in Europe.

Sailboat and carrier

Friends on both boats!

During their maiden voyage aboard Rocket Science, first mate Jenny had watched in astonishment as the knot meter climbed from 10 knots to the high 12’s in a matter of minutes while she was alone in the cockpit.

When the boat hit the mid-13’s knots, she yelled down into the cabin at her husband, the captain, “TJ, you’d better get up here!”.

He came running up, totally thrilled at the speed, and they continued their sleigh ride into the mid-17’s.

That’s like going 150 mph in a car!

 

USS Ronald Reagan

USS Ronald Reagan is greeted by helicopters

We watched them slip out of San Diego harbor en route to Norway via Central America. What a voyage!

As they disappeared into the distance at the mouth of San Diego bay, an aircraft carrier appeared on the horizon returning from exercises at sea.

We watched the two boats approaching each other, and suddenly realized we had friends on both boats, because a young friend of ours in the Navy is stationed on that carrier, the USS Ronald Reagan.

Of course, our cruising friends left the bay without too much fanfare, other than us standing on the shore snapping photos and waving.

But the aircraft carrier was greeted by a trio of Navy helicopters flying in formation!

Dolphin leaping in San Diego bay

A dolphin suddenly leaps by our boat

We got out on the bay in our own boat Groovy early one morning, and were astonished by the greeting we received when a dolphin leapt high out of the water nearby.

Dolphin jumping out of the water

The dolphin paused for treats between leaps!

We discovered that this dolphin was an enlisted Navy sailor too.

Working with civilian trainers in an inflatable dinghy, he was leaping on command and getting yummy fish treats in return for his efforts.

What a beautiful creature.

I hope he gets a nice pension for his years of service.

 

San Diego dolphin jumping

Dolphin leaps in the air

 

Dolphin leaps clear out of the water

Such a thrill to see!

Fort Rosecrans Cemetery

Fort Rosecrans Cemetery

San Diego’s close relationship with the Navy goes way back, and high up on Point Loma there is a Navy cemetery with hundreds of tombstones lined up on rolling, green, grassy lawns.

The cemetery has views of both the bay and the ocean, and the endless rows of white stones seem to reach right out to the horizon.

This would be a wonderful place to watch a beautiful sunset, and Mark traipsed up there, camera in hand, on quite a few occasions, hoping for glorious red skies.

 

 

This cemetery overlooks the sea and the bay

This cemetery overlooks the sea and the bay

But Mother Nature has a mind of her own, and each time he made the trek, he came home disappointed with just a handful of shots that, while lovely, didn’t have the magic he’d hoped for.

The “out of this world” sunsets seemed to be reserved for the days when we weren’t paying attention and weren’t ready.

We’d be busy on the boat, deeply engrossed in some project, when we’d peak out the windows and our jaws would suddenly drop when we caught sight of the colors in the sky.

 

Sunset at Harbor Island

A beautiful sunset catches us by surprise

To add to the drama, our sunset views from inside the boat are fantastically enhanced because the windows in the hull are tinted pink!

We’d leap up out of our seats, throw everything aside, and dive for the cameras — which were never where they should be, always had the wrong lenses attached, and had been left in some weird mode that produced blown out or black images for the first few photos.

Oh well! We’d still click away, happy as clams, hunting for ways to get a unique perspective on whatever was happening in the sky.

Sculptures on Shelter Island at dusk

Shelter Island sculpture structures at dusk…

Mark enjoyed getting out for night shots too, and Shelter Island’s unusual sculptures offered lots of interesting opportunities.

There is a big grassy lawn with two large structures on it that represent the undulations and curves of waves on the sea.

During the daytime these are a little bit funny looking, but at night, when spotlights shine on them, they come to life.

Sculptures on Shelter Island at night

…and at night.

The magic hour is just after sunset when the sky makes a brilliant blue backdrop, but I also really liked the silky, inky black of night.

This is a fun time to play with lighting, and he got a wonderful photo of a trio of bird of paradise flowers too.

Trio of bird of paradise flowers

A lovely bird of paradise trio

These were happy days for us on the shores of San Diego Bay.

After a while, though, we finally tore ourselves away from the action nearby to go looking for adventure a little further afield.

We didn’t have to go too far — Sunset Clilffs and Balboa Park were just a stone’s throw away.

 

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Our beloved sailboat Groovy is For Sale

San Diego’s Shelter Island – A Lively Waterfront!

Shelter Island San Diego

Shelter Island is a great place to sit for a spell!

Summer-Fall, 2013 – While we were in San Diego, living in one of the marinas in Shelter Island’s “backyard,” we discovered a summer-long party was going on out on the island’s “front yard” that faces the bay.

Statue of kid with balloons

A bronze statue is dressed up with balloons

Shelter Island’s unique waterfront park invites visitors to spread out a picnic, or kick back with a book under a tree, or host a birthday party, or gather the whole clan for a huge family reunion, and these kinds of festive happenings go on whenever the sun is shining, which is pretty much every afternoon!

Sunbathing on Shelter Island

Shelter Island’s little beach is great for sunbathing.

Whenever we took a stroll across the street from the marina, the bay side of Shelter Island was hopping with activity.

Joggers, walkers and people with dogs filled the paths, while sunbathers and fishermen hung out by the water’s edge.

Shelter Island Drive, the road that runs the length of this spit of land, is a about a mile long, and it is a favorite place for people to show off their sports cars.

We spotted high-end cars of every variety driving by. After a while we got used to looking up and seeing something exotic rolling past, like a Ferarri or Lotus or Bentley or Rolls Royce.

Roadster on Shelter Island

California Dreaming…

This is California, after all, where cruising in a sporty roadster is an iconic pastime.

One day we found a Porsche car show was in full swing at one end of the island. Porsches of every color and from every era filled the grassy lawn by the water. Proud owners stood back and smiled while their cars were ogled and photographed.

Porsche car show Shelter Island

Porsches are lined up at a car show

Many of the cars had cute license plates. I liked the one that said “It’s qwik.”

Porsche - it's quik!

This is a fast one!

The Porsche car show was set up for just a few hours that Saturday, but the local RVs were there every day.

Porche car show on Shelter Island

What a place to show off these beautiful cars

RVs up to 30′ long are given designated parking spaces that they can stay in 22/7 — all but the wee hours of the morning. A group of “regulars” showed up early every morning to take their favorite spots along the waterfront.

Decorated RV on Shelter Island

There’s a little of everything here

Just as unique and eye-popping as any sporty Porsche was one fellow’s Class C motorhome. He had decorated if from stem to stern in crazy, colorful doo-dads and stickers. The exterior of his rig was an evolving work of art, and we watched him carefully adding goodies to it every so often.

Prevost at Humphreys

The RV culture on Shelter Island includes million dollar rigs!

At the opposite end of the spectrum, famous rock and rollers pulled into Shelter Island every few days to perform in outdoor concerts at Humphreys.

Their posh RVs were given designated parking too, right in the Humphreys parking lot!!

Seeing these million dollar rigs lined up always prompted chatter among the passersby, “Who’s playing tonight?”

Their lineup was impressive, and bands like Lynyrd Skynyrd and Moody Blues were on the roster during our stay.

Fishing Pier cShelter Island

This little pier is Shelter Island’s fishing hub

We hoped to catch a glimpse of a famous face, or at least get a peak inside a rig, or just talk to a roadie, but we never got quite that lucky.

There were times, though, when there were four or five of these million dollar motorhomes parked in front of Humphreys, their generators humming.

Big tree on Shelter Island

Shelter Island has lots of huge and elegant trees

Several hundred yards away, the fishermen were lined up on the fishing pier, poles reaching out over the water, their ice buckets and coolers at their feet.

Jungle gym slide on Shelter Island

Little kids have their own place
on Shelter Island too.

Shelter Island’s captivating view looks straight across the bay at downtown San Diego, but it is the enormous trees towering over the shore that will always remain etched in my memory. These mammoth trees seem to reach for the sky, and they have shaded decades of parties and gatherings under their branches.

Bougainvillea trellis Shelter Island

Trellises covered with bougainvillea dot the walking paths

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The little jungle gym in the middle of the island was always full of kids playing on the swings and slide.

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Bell of Friendship from Yokohama to San Diego

Yokohama’s “Bell of Friendship” was given to San Diego in 1960.

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At the far end of Shelter Island there is a Japanese monument, complete with a little red roofed structure that houses a very special “Bell of Friendship” along with a huge hanging mallet to strike it. This bell was presented to San Diego in 1960 by her “sister city,” Yokohama, Japan.

Morning mist on Shelter Island

Morning mist on Shelter Island

The whole monument faces right out to the open Pacific ocean beyond San Diego’s protected bay, and there is a longing and almost haunting quality to it.

Marvelous Muffins on Shelter Island Drive

Marvelous Muffins are MARVELOUS!

Although the afternoons were usually bright and sunny, the mornings were often very misty and foggy, and we often woke to the sound of water dripping from our boat’s rigging onto the deck. That’s when we would to head to Marvelous Muffins, a sweet little muffin shop that was warm and cozy and smelled yummy inside. The shop’s owner Sophie would greet us with a huge smile, and despite having hundreds of customers, many of whom have been coming daily for years, she soon knew our names and our favorite order: a cranberry bran muffin and a blueberry bran muffin.

Yoga on standup paddle boards

Morning yoga exercises in the bay

We liked to think that starting the day with a bran muffin was fairly healthy, but one morning as we nibbled our treats, we were quite taken aback when we saw three people doing yoga on their stand-up paddle boards out in the bay.

San Diego's Festival of Sail

San Diego’s Festival of Sail

Wow! Where else would you see something like that? Another day we wandered across from the marina to see the Festival of Sail, a fabulous tall ship parade.

New and old ships in San Diego

The NEW and the OLD!

People set up their chairs on the lawn and pulled out their binoculars and cameras to watch the ships sailing past. What a fun show. Historic ships of all kinds ghosted past, all sails flying. I loved seeing the ultra modern design of a race boat next to the salty lines of an old wooden schooner. What a contrast. Each boat harnesses the wind for propulsion, but in such totally different ways.

Tall ships of every kind sailed past

Tall ships of every kind sailed past

Tall ship in San Diego

These beautiful ships sailed towards downtown.

Tall ships in San Diegp

Tall ships and sailboats on San Diego Bay

Wanna race?

Local boaters got close to the action, sailing between the tall ships, and many of the local charter boats took their customers out for a view from the front row.

Tall ship cannon blast

Cannon blast!

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This was a beautiful parade that moved past in silence and slow motion.

Tall ship at sunset

A tall ship catches the light at sunset

Some of the tall ships had been war ships in a bygone era and had been armed to the teeth in their day.

Several of them broke the silence with cannon blasts as they went by. These explosions evoked a shout of excitement from us onlookers standing in the grass.

But how frightening it must have been to be caught in a skirmish — a true dance macabre — between ships like these back when the coasts were untamed.

Fishermen statue

San Diego celebrates all the ways people enjoy the sea

San Diego has one of the most accessible waterfronts of any big city, and the statues all along the waterfront pay homage to the many ways that people enjoy the sea.

We loved this statue of three fishermen reeling in their catch, and after we both tried many different angles on it, Mark captured this beautiful shot at dusk.

The wonderful thing about Shelter Island is that even when there isn’t a formal tall ship parade going by, there is always something happening on the water.

Big cruise ships come into San Diego on a regular basis too. What a sight it is when one passes by, all lit up like a Christmas tree from stem to stern.

A cruise ship lights up the bay as it sails towards downtown

A cruise ship lights up the bay as it sails towards downtown

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It was a gift to be able to live on Shelter Island where everything from car shows to boat parades to little kids playing on swings to folks casting for fish to people walking and jogging along the waterfront all happened right in our own front yard.

We relished all the action, but were always glad to be able to retreat at the end of the day to Shelter Island’s back yard of marinas where the the sunsets became ever more spectacular as the summer slipped into fall and then early winter!

Sunset on Harbor Island

The sunsets became ever more dramatic as Fall progressed.

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Our beloved sailboat Groovy is For Sale

San Diego’s Shelter Island – Safe Haven!

Kona Kai sunset

Our sailboat “Groovy” enjoys the sunset at Kona Kai Marina on Shelter Island

Summer-Fall, 2013 – San Diego’s Shelter Island is an oasis of tranquility in the middle of a very busy city harbor, and when we sailed up from Mexico it became our beautiful home for a few months.

What a place!

San Diego is a cool bayside city that ranks as the eighth largest in the US.

It is home to both a major naval air station and a huge international airport that crowd the waterfront alongside the skyscrapers of downtown.

 

Walking path on Shelter Island

The walking paths along Shelter Island’s back side are lush and lovely.

All that stuff could make for a very industrial waterfront, but Shelter Island offers a wonderful, scenic getaway, a little island of calm, right in the middle of it all.

With grassy lawns and palm trees running along its length and making up much of both its “front yard” on the bay and its “back yard” of marinas, Shelter Island is a unique spot.

 

Elegant yacht and house

Shelter Island’s back yard is very pretty and peaceful

The island, which is actually connected and not a true island, is the result of brilliant city planning back in the 1930’s.

The land used to be natural mud flats that were dredged to create a deep water mooring area for boats and a solid turf “island.”

This green and lush strip of land at the water’s edge is part of what makes San Diego so worthy of its claim to be “America’s Finest City.”

Kona kai rower

A rowboat passes behind the boats in the marina

Stand up paddle boards Shelter Island

One of the best ways to get around
is by paddle board

On the front (bay) side of the island, visitors picnic, walk their dogs, jog, fish, sunbathe, and launch their kayaks and powerboats for rides in the bay.

 

The more serene back side of the island is home to a dozen or so marinas and a thousand or so boats that sit quietly, side by side, with narrow waterways running in labyrinthine patterns between them.

 

Kona Kai Marina gate

The metal gate at Kona Kai marina is heavy and ornate

Our boat slip was at Kona Kai marina, which is part of a resort hotel, and our dock was tucked behind an elaborately sculpted, heavy metal gate that swung shut on springs with a resounding clang. Once inside the gate, it was as if the world on the other side of the island disappeared.

All that was around us were graceful boats that moved ever so gently in their slips and birds that fished in the mirrored waters by the shore.

This back yard of Shelter Island is an ideal place to explore by paddle board or rowboat, and we saw lots of those during our stay.

 

Shelter Island walking path

We just love these walking paths

Along the shore, a paved walking path ducks under rich green foliage that is dotted with brilliant orange bird of paradise flowers and vivid magenta bouganvillea.

Ironically, when we first arrived at Shelter Island after sailing up from Mexico, we didn’t appreciate or even recognize the tranquility of the place.

The hum and thrum of the Mexican and American cultures are so different, and they dance to such divergent tempos and cadences, that after our many months of immersion in Mexico, we were out of sync with our own home culture. It took us a while to find our rhythm.

 

Deborah Lynn Herreshoff

Our neighbor’s Herreshoff 12.5 Doughdish
“Deborah Lynn” looked so pretty in the morning light

On our very first morning on Shelter Island, Mark emerged from the companionway of our boat and went out for a walk at dawn. I was too lazy to join him and just rolled over.

What a shock it was when he jumped back into bed an hour later and pulled the covers over his head.

“Where’s the fire?” He asked, his voice muffled by pillows and blankets as he hugged them tight around his head.

“Everyone is moving so fast! What is wrong with the world out there? Why is everyone in such a rush?”

I laughed as he curled up in a little ball, his fists clenching the blankets right down over his face.

Messing about in boats

“There is nothing half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”

Shelter Island at dawn is downright mellow by American urban standards!

But we weren’t used to American life any more, and this was our first stage of “re-entry.” During the weeks and months that followed, there were many times when we both wanted to pull the covers over our heads as we readjusted.

Travelers who spend a long time away from their home culture often talk about “re-entry” when they finally come home.

Shelter Island is a sea of masts

The backside of Shelter Island is a sea of masts

All it takes for most Americans to get catapulted back into the reality of our own culture is a trip to a supermarket.

The displays of richly colored and beautifully shaped produce seem to go on for acres, and each specimen sitting on its perfect pyramid of sister fruits and veggies appears to be the very essence of ripeness and loveliness.

The miles-wide and miles-long aisles in the supermarket offer at least two or three choices for everything.

It is overwhelming. Such bounty and wealth. Such lavish abundance.

Red sailboat at Shelter Island

There are boats of every kind here.

We’ve been through the supermarket re-entry phase before, but it didn’t make it any less dramatic this time around.

We walked into the supermarket and instantly felt that same urge we had on the streets of Mexico to grab our cameras and take photos.

The supermarket was just so exotic and so colorful and so wonderful!

On the boat, life was more familiar and not too different than it had been in Mexico, except we were now wearing sweatshirts and running our heater at night.

Living at Shelter Island also gave us a wonderful window onto the world of the very rich.

Cushy chairs at Kona Kai Resort

Relaxing at Kona Kai in front of the mega yacht dock

The cushy chairs at the resort had a view of the mega yacht dock, and one day a new yacht pulled in that was five stories tall and dwarfed the recreational boats nearby.

What a life!

We felt so privileged to be able to see all this…and even to be able to feel all these mixed up emotions too.

A generous friend took us to lunch at the posh San Diego Yacht Club where there are trophy cases lined with silver goblets engraved with the names of the best racing sailors.

Mega yacht Invectus at Kona Kai

The five story yacht “Invectus” towers over all the other boats

Wooden ship's wheel San Diego Yacht Club

View from San Diego Yacht Club

A thickly varnished and very shiniy wooden ship’s wheel on the yacht club deck gave the luncheon patio a distinctly nautical flavor.

This was life lived at another level, and boating of a different kind that barely resembled the grubby, salty cruising lifestyle we had come from. What a delight!

Kona Kai Marina

Kona Kai Marina

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We felt like shape shifters sliding in and out of all these special cultures.

Herron fishing

In many ways, too, we felt a lot like Dorothy upon her return from Oz.

We had woken up, with bumps on our heads, to find our home was rather strange and unfamiliar, and all we could do was talk excitedly about where we had just been.

Heron and reflected masts

A heron fishes among the mast reflections

Dorothy’s friends and neighbors listened politely as she told of the scarecrow and the lion and the tin-man and the wizard. But her friends and family were much more concerned about the bump on her head.

Pelican landing

Landing gear down…

We gave a few slideshow talks about our adventures and talked til we were hoarse about all that we had seen and done.

We made videos to inspire future cruisers and give them shortcuts to reach the best stuff we discovered down south.

Fortunately, I think our stories and photos captured the imaginations of the folks that listened to us.

But the bumps on our heads from re-entry were still there, especially when we watched TV and listened to the radio.

That sure jolted us back to the reality of life in the US!

 

Back side of Island Palms Resort

It’s pretty darn nice here!

We hadn’t heard or seen advertising in English for 10 months, and we were in awe as we were assaulted by the plethora of advertisers.

It sure seemed as though our lives would be hopelessly incomplete if we didn’t start buying all this great stuff right away!

Technology had also snuck ahead of us while our heads were turned, and we watched our friends talk to their phones and their cars with a chummy familiarity that was startling.

Their phones and navigation systems happily talked back too!

 

Puffy cloud Sunset at Kona Kai

Puffy clouds above the boats and reflections below

Witnessing these human/computer interactions made us feel like we had walked right off the edge of the planet and were just now crawling back on our hands and knees.

We have been without a cell phone since 2007, and our friends were sure we needed to get one now to survive.

Several trips to the Verizon store and a few sales pitches later, and we realized we still didn’t need a phone, not even a smart one, but gosh, those smartphones sure are seductive.

One day while Mark was chatting with a new friend on the docks, he suddenly said, “You were in Mexico!? That explains why you’re so laid back and talk so slow!”

Sunset on Shelter Island

Sunset on Shelter Island

We are?? We do?? We just thought the world was moving a little too fast and everyone was talking in hyperspeed around us!

Fortunately, the rhythm of the sunrises and sunsets in Shelter Island’s backyard was the same as it has ever had been. We reveled in the purity of each one.

The sky was different every morning and every evening, and it conjured up all kinds of colors and shapes and patterns to fill the sky.

And oftentimes the water was glass beneath it, reflecting those same pretty images back up from the depths below.

Sunset at Shelter Island Marina

Every sunrise and sunset is different

Shelter Island’s protected backyard offered us wonderful shelter as we gradually eased our way back into the mainstream.

Lighted docks at Kona Kai Marina

The docks at night

But it was Shelter Island’s front yard — the grassy green picnic areas, the majestic trees, the funky old RVs and the front row seats to the action on the bay — that got us excited about being back home in the US and living in this very special corner of it for a while…

Bonfire at Kona Kai Resort

A beach bonfire on the back side of Shelter Island

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Our beloved sailboat Groovy is For Sale

Taylor Guitars – Where Passion Fuels Success

Taylor Guitars Entrance

At Taylor Guitars!

Mid-November, 2013 – After watching the 2013 Baja Ha-ha fleet of boats sail south for winter cruising in Mexico, we turned our attention away from the sea and back towards the fun things there are to do on land in southern California.

Mark has been an avid guitar player since his teenage years, and it wasn’t long before we found ourselves at the unique Taylor Guitars factory in El Cajon.

Many moons ago, Mark had taken an impromptu tour of the old Taylor factory, back when it was in Santee, California.

 

 

Kids walking with guitar necks

How cool to see factory workers walking around with guitar parts in their hands!

Today the plant is in El Cajon, and the daily tours are not only extraordinarily professional and informative but reflect the high quality standard that is the very essence of Taylor Guitars.

What fun it is to pull into an industrial area full of factory buildings and see plant workers walking around carrying guitar necks and bodies!

The visitors center was like a museum that hums a melodious ode to the beauty of Taylor guitars.

Signs on the walls next to expensive guitars say, “Play Me!” and the receptionist encouraged us to take any guitar we wanted off the rack and give it a strum.  Mark happily obliged!

 

Taylor Guitars factory tour

Visitors are encourage to try any guitar they want

Turning a corner into the stylish gift shop, we heard snippets of classic rock favorites coming from the guitars of other tour takers as we milled around and waited for our tour to begin.

There were some really great guitar players with us on tour that day!

Emerson Lake and Palmer’s “From the Beginning” and Zeppelin’s “Stairway to Heaven” wafted through the room, while the players grinned with delight at the way these graceful guitars sounded.

We were given headphones and receivers so we could hear the tour guide over the noise of the factory, and we all assembled at the appointed hour.

Taylor Guitar tour guide and group

We gather around our tour guide, wearing headphones, receivers and safety glasses.

We were a group of about 20, with just four women present. What a surprise it was to find out from our guide that our group was only “medium” sized. This tour is given every weekday!!

I’m sure that being a Guitar God was something all these guys around me had dreamed of at one point or another in their lives, but on this tour we were introduced to the life works of a REAL Guitar God. Not Jimi Hendrix or Eric Clapton or Eddie Van Halen, but the one and only Bob Taylor, the co-founder and visionary behind Taylor Guitars.

We soon discovered that Bob’s unique talents and can-do approach to life were apparent when he was just a junior in high school in the early 1970’s. When he saw the $175 price tag of a coveted guitar, rather than go mow a few lawns to raise the capital to buy it, he decided to make one himself in shop class instead!

Taylor Guitar woodpile

One of many woodpiles out back

While his shop teacher was teaching the other kids the names of the tools in the shop and explaining what goes into a design plan, he drew up a plan for a 12-string dreadnought guitar and asked his teacher if he could skip the beginner stuff and get right into building his guitar.
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Escapees Magazine features our story – Enchanting Ensenada

Escapees Magazine Enchanting Ensenada

Escapees Magazine
by Emily & Mark Fagan
November-December 2013 Issue

Posted November 9, 2013

The November/December 2013 issue of Escapees Magazine is featuring our article Enchanting Ensenada about Mexico’s fun-filled waterfront city in northern Baja California (you can read the story from the link above).

We lived in Ensenada, Mexico, for six months as we outfitted our sailboat Groovy to go cruising, and we recently enjoyed another month there. When we first arrived nearly four years ago, we weren’t sure what we would find, but in the ensuing weeks and months we fell in love with the energy and vitality of this multifaceted coastal city.

Very much like the recent Baja Ha-Ha sailing event that took 130 sailboats on a two week voyage from San Diego to Cabo San Lucas en route to further sailing adventures in Mexico, the Escapees RV Club’s “Mexican Connection” Chapter is hosting a ten day RV rally that will bring 50 RVs from San Diego into Baja California on February 3-13, 2014.

Starting at the KOA RV park in Chula Vista, this rally will spend a week in Ensenada and then travel down to San Quintín where the RVers will regroup either to return north or to continue their road trips south to Baja hot spots like Bahía Concepción, Loreto, Los Cabos and La Paz.

Ensenada, Mexico, is a fabulous destination for RVers and cruisers alike.  Lying just 70 miles south of San Diego, it is a lively university town that offers a full-flavored taste of life in Mexico, whether living aboard a sailboat in one of the two excellent marinas or staying in one of the RV parks along the shore.

For more info about what we found to see and do in and around Ensenada, please visit the following links:

For a glimpse of what life is like in the rest of Baja and mainland Mexico, please see these links:

The Baja Ha-Ha 2013 Sails South!

Sunny days and pretty flowers on Shelter Island

Sunny days and pretty flowers on Shelter Island

Every fall, veteran sailing snowbirds and first-time voyagers flock to the many marinas and anchorages around San Diego Bay. Then, at the end of October, they point their bows south and take flight in the Baja Ha-Ha Cruiser’s Rally.

This year we had front row seats to all the action.

This voyage is a long one — some 800 miles or so between San Diego and Cabo San Lucas at the southern tip of Mexico’s Baja peninsula — and the rally lasts two weeks.

The boats make just two stops along the way, and at a blazing boat speed of 6 to 8 mph, they cover three legs of approximately 350 miles, 250 miles and 200 miles each.

Baja Ha-Ha kick-off party

Ron from West Marine was a great pirate-host
for the Ha-Ha kick-off costume party

These are overnight passages, and the boats sail non-stop for days at a time, with the crew taking turns at the helm.

In the weeks leading up to the rally, boats arrive from points north, and the excitement builds around the docks.

Boats come down from Alaska, British Columbia, Washington, Oregon and northern California, and everyone arrives with adventure and tropical sunshine on their minds.

We were first introduced to the Baja Ha-Ha in 2008 when we were living in our fifth wheel trailer on Shelter Island. Laws for parking an RV along the waterfront were more lax in those days, and we spent a wonderful month enjoying San Diego from this fantastic spot.

Mariachi band

A mariachi band performed at the Ha-Ha kick-off party.

 

We got a glimpse of the west coast boating life that whetted our appetites and changed our lives.

While we were there, adventurers Stephen Mann and Kathleen Torres were getting ready to depart on their daring 9 month round-the-world voyage via the Southern Ocean.

And the Ha-Ha crowd was spilling in and out of every chandlery and boating related store on Shelter Island.

 

Wicked wenches

Wild wenches line up for their costume contest

We went to the Ha-Ha kick-off costume party and got totally caught up in the excitement and festivities.  We bought Ha-Ha t-shirts and suddenly had our hearts set on buying a boat and going cruising too!

Two years later, we joined the merriment again — for real! We partied with the Ha-Ha crowd at the kick-off party and then sailed south on our own boat, following in the wake of the fleet.

Pirate and cowgirl

A pirate and … a cowgirl!

This year’s party and send-off were just as much fun (if not more-so) as the other two we’d attended.

It was a little nostalgic for us as we remembered our wide-eyed impressions of the first party and our fluttery butterfly nerves during the second party when our own departure was just days away.

This year’s party was full of wonderful flashbacks for us. We listened to the excited conversations between the cruisers as they talked about boat projects and last minute repairs, and memories of our own last minute preparations welled up from what now seems like the far distant past.

Pirate duel

A pirate’s life for me? Watch out!

The Ha-Ha kick-off costume party is a chance for all the cruisers to let off a little steam the day before the big departure. After weeks of boat upgrade projects, massive bank account draining expenditures on equipment, and laborious installations, troubleshooting and repairs, everyone at the party is radiantly happy to let loose for a few hours.

Stealing a sword

Watch your back at all times!

The kick-off party takes place in the West Marine parking lot, and their employee Ron, who usually wears a normal clothes to work, came to West Marine dressed as a pirate just for the occasion. He transformed into a fantastic, swashbuckling host for the event.

As he invited all the other pirates up on the stage for the costume contest, one of them boldly reached out and grabbed Ron’s pistol off his belt. Ron raised his sword in protest, but luckily no limbs were severed.

Teenage old man

A teenager did an awesome impersonation of an old man

Another pirate kept losing his sword out of its sheath on his back. You gotta watch your back at these cruiser gatherings!

All the costumes were really creative.

 

Meow!

Meow!

Pirate in glasses

There were some crazy getups!

One teenage boy did a spot-on impersonation of a cranky old man and had the crowd clapping and cheering.

And a pussy cat, a couple abandoning ship in a hurricane, a group of cervezas with limes and a Swedish family (who actually sailed here from Sweden — complete with Pippi Longstocking!) all had a moment in front of the crowd.

One of the most popular groups was the Pan Am flight attendants.

The Pan Am gals (cough cough) paraded in.

The Pan Am gals (cough cough) paraded in.

Lemme fix my hair

“I can’t do a THING
with my hair!”

These lovely ladies — uh — guys — brought a little brawn and muscle to their tight skirts… along with furry beards and hairy legs!

Cops

No one noticed the prisoners
when these cops showed up!

But when a pair of cops from East Germany showed up, the tight skirt game rose to a new level! They were chasing a group of prisoners that had balls chained to their ankles and were trying to make a quick prison break.  The crowd barely noticed the prisoners, as all eyes were on the two cops!

A special Ha-Ha cruiser for us was our friend Jenny who was dressed in a white lab coat. She is the First Mate of the flying vessel called “Rocket Science.” Her gorgeous 55 foot custom sailboat averages 12 knots with its eyes closed, and has been known to top 17 knots when the skipper and first mate were actually paying attention.

As the boat was being built, the original owner kept telling his naval architects, “It’s not rocket science,” as they worked to create a blindingly fast sailing machine. Well, although to him it wasn’t Rocket Science, to any boat sailing nearby, this boat is actually a sailing Rocket Ship!

They will be starting two days after the fleet, but they will likely overtake everyone in no time!

Rocket Science is a Rocket Ship!

Jenny’s Rocket Science is a Rocket Ship!

The Grand Poobah, Richard Spindler, was busy taking pics

Richard Spindler — the “Grand Poohbah” — got lots of pics

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Meanwhile the paparazzi had a remote controlled aircraft for overhead shots

The paparazzi used remote controlled aircraft for overhead shots!

Yours truly with the Grand Poohbah

Yours truly with the Grand Poohbah

Now, this is a Grand Event that is known far and wide in cruising circles. So it was no surprise to look up and see a flying craft above us with a camera pointed down into the crowd.

The paparazzi had obviously gathered outside the West Marine parking lot gates, and they were getting whatever shots they could of the wonderful party inside!

The Ha-Ha swag bags were a big hit -- very classy backpacks.

The Ha-Ha swag bags were a big hit — very classy backpacks.

Well, there weren’t any big celebrities present that day, but the buzz was on about the great swag that was being given out to the Ha-Ha participants this year.

Popeye made off with a two-four of beer to wash all that spinach down.

Popeye made off with a two-four of beer to wash down all that spinach!

The Ha-Ha logo backpacks were very classy, and they were loaded to the brim with t-shirts, sunglasses, beach balls and other goodies.

With swag bags full of great stuff, and bellies full of tacos and beer, the partiers finally began to disperse.

As we were leaving the parking lot, we noticed Popeye making off with a 24-pack of beer. He had been slurping a spinach drink all afternoon (although the liquid in his glass was suspiciously tan colored), so who could blame him if he wanted a little pick-me-up for later?

Baja Ha-ha 2013 fleet leaves San Diego

The Ha-ha fleet gathers in the bay

 

 

 

The next morning dawned gloomy and drizzly after a night of pouring rain. Our boat was drenched and our sheets were clammy as we climbed out of bed to see the Ha-Ha crowd off.

This was not the kind of start anyone would want, but maybe the promise of sunshine and fun times ahead got the sailors all revved up, even as they donned their foul weather gear for the start.

Baja Ha-ha fleet

Boats line up for the parade

Capricorn Cat

Capricorn Cat is beautifully dressed up for the occasion!

We wandered to the other side of Shelter Island at the appointed hour and watched the boats begin to gather.

We had been keeping an eye on the weather forecasts, and for us, this didn’t seem like a great day to leave. The frustrating part about any outdoor event is what do you do with inclement weather?

As a kid back in New England, I remember all our outdoor party invitations always went out with either a rain date or an alternative venue “in case of rain.” It was just part of life in a place where it rains a few days out of most weeks.

Baja Ha-ha 2013

The fireboat does donuts and blasts water spray arcs all around

But with a gathering of 130 sailboats headed south on a two week voyage, how do you coordinate an alternative departure date?

Fortunately, the excited crowd on the water didn’t seem put off one bit by the drizzle.

For us, however, the small craft advisory warnings and the forecast of 5 to 9 foot seas at 10-11 second intervals for the next few days (very steep and choppy!) did not seem very inviting.

In the end, all sailors have to make up their own minds about when the weather looks best for a passage, and fortunately the big comfy port of Ensenada lay just 70 miles to the south if things got too gnarly for the fleet!

 

Baja Ha-ha fleet with fireboat

Our friends Rob & Rose aboard R&R Kedger sail past

This is a big media event, and a fishing vessel named Dolphin bobbed near our shore with dignitaries from Mexico and San Diego and the media on board. They had fabulous front row seats to the spectacle.

But we were in prime position too, and suddenly we heard a starting gunshot blast from somewhere out on the water, and then the fleet was off. They motored past us, and our camera shutters flew — in between waves to friends, of course!

A fire boat spun in circles too, sending up a huge fountain of spray all around.  Here’s a quick video clip…

Now THAT's a lens!!!

Now THAT’s a lens!!!

We found ourselves standing next to a professional photographer from the San Diego Union-Tribune. What luck! Mark had a chance to talk cameras with a true pro, and we both gaped in awe at the lens he was using.

Our cameras were getting soaked in the drizzle, but his pro camera could easily handle that kind of misting. I had to throw my jacket over my camera between each shot, and I wondered if it would survive (it did!).

The mothership, Profligate, a fast 65-foot catamaran, zoomed through the fleet to the front of the pack, leading the way out of the bay. It was a thrill to see all of these intrepid cruisers off on their adventures.

Profligate roars to the head of the fleet

Profligate roars to the head of the fleet

After the row of boats slipped away into the mist, we dried off our cameras as best we could, packed them up, and began walking back to our truck.  The chatter between us was non-stop as we talked about all the excitement of the morning.

Funny thing is, try as we could, neither of us could remember the details of our own leave-taking from San Diego Bay on our voyage south those years ago. We had sailed in and out of the bay so many times, and had been back and forth to Ensenada so much, that somehow the specifics of that particular day were lost to us for the moment.

Baja Ha-ha fleet leaves San Diego

And they’re off — to warmer climes and a great winter in Mexico.

But as we climbed into our truck and drove over to a coffee shop to warm up with a latte and a muffin, we both agreed that we were quite content not to be on the ocean right now.

We’d had our time and loved our cruise, just as these sailors are having their time and will love their cruise too. But as we listened to the fog horn wailing in the distance while we cozied up to steaming cups at our little bistro table in the coffee shop, there was something very comforting and civilized about being warm, dry, and on stable ground — with our own wheels parked out front!

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Cruising Mexico Video Series!

Cruising Mexico Off the Beaten Path is a three-part video series to help you plan your cruise. Our goal with this series is to:

  • Introduce you to Mexico’s lesser known & prettiest anchorages
  • Teach you Mexico’s overall geography, both coastal and inland
  • Explain the general weather patterns and climate
  • Help you plan an itinerary where you see the best places at the best seasons without backtracking too much
  • Inspire you with ideas for what to see and do during your cruise
  • Ensure you get the most out of your sailing adventure.

Each video is chock full of maps, tips, insights and hints, along with vivid images of the most beautiful spots!

Cruisers often invite each other over for drinks or dinner to swap info on where they’ve been. And in that spirit, this series is our way of sharing what we learned (and that isn’t in the guidebooks) with you. It’s if we had stopped by your boat and sat down with you for a few hours to go over the charts and give you our insights and tips, suggesting where to go, what to avoid and what to look forward to.

Many people cruise Mexico, but few get to the anchorages where we stayed.

Mexico Regions

There are lots of maps in these videos.
We review the overall geography, weather patterns and climate.

This video series begins by familiarizing you with Mexico’s geography. Do you know where Huatulco is in relationship to Chamela or Chiapas?  This series will teach you.

Then we review the overall weather patterns and seasonal climate variations and how they will impact your itinerary.  Is it better to start in La Paz or La Cruz?  How’s the snorkeling in the Sea of Cortez in January?

Then we dive into the good stuff as we visit each destination and check it out.

Like most cruisers, before we left on our cruise, we were buried in the bilge as we got Groovy ready for our voyage.

Our plan was very simple:  leave San Diego, turn left, and keep going until we got warm.

Lots of first-timers tackle Mexico that way, and that’s unfortunate.  Safe passage from San Diego to Cabo San Lucas is their primary goal, and things get fuzzy after that.  The problem is, Cabo isn’t a place that is easy to stick around (it’s fun but very expensive!), so as soon as you arrive you need to be planning your departure.  But where to?  For how long?  What will you do there?  And then where?

Mexico's Southern Pacific Coast

We had no idea what was in this part of Mexico. Do you?

The invaluable cruising guides we all use and rely on are awesome for telling you how to get in and out of the anchorages and where to find provisions at each stop.  But it is very hard to get an overall understanding of what it is like to travel in Mexico by boat from these guides.

We got well off the beaten path that most Mexico cruisers follow, and I am hoping that by watching our videos you can benefit from all the research we did and all the great experiences we had once we got down there.

I also hope these videos will get you juiced up about your upcoming cruise, and give you a happy break from all the boat projects and shopping sprees that seem to be the very essence of getting ready to go cruising.

As a learning tool, these videos provide a fabulous way to study a lot of information in an easy to digest and highly visual and colorful manner. If you miss something, back up and play it over. Unlike books that you read privately, you can watch these videos with your spouse and talk over your thoughts and plans.

Grab a bag of popcorn and come have some fun with us!

 

Cruising Mexico DVD Volume 1

Cruising Mexico Off the Beaten Path
Ensenada & the Northern Pacific Coast
Volume 1 – Front Cover

Cruising Mexico – Off the Beaten Path – Volume 1
Ensenada and the Northern Pacific Coast
Purchase as an Instant Download

This hour-long video (327 photos) covers Mexico’s overall geography, getting you familiar with what lies where.  It presents a brief discussion of weather patterns, climate and the weather prediction tools we used for passage planning.  After a brief glance at where all the marinas are located and which ones are good for summer storage, it offers an itinerary that will get you to all the best spots in two seasons, making sure you see each area when it is at its peak.  Then it reviews the anchorages between Ensenada and Manzanillo.

This video has lots of maps!  Hopefully, after watching it, you will have a good understanding of the layout of this part of the coast, the general distances between the anchorages, and what’s where in relation to each other.

 

 

 

Cruising Mexico DVD Volume 2

Cruising Mexico Off the Beaten Path
The Southern Pacific Coast
Volume 2 – Front Cover

Cruising Mexico – Off the Beaten Path – Volume 2
Mexico’s Southern Pacific Coast
Purchase as an Instant Download

This nearly two hour video (380 photos) covers our favorite cruising grounds that lie between Zihuatanejo and the Guatemala border, way down at the bottom of Mexico.  Although Zihuatanejo gets a lot of cruising visitors, the areas south of there are so distant that they are little visited by Mexico cruisers unless they are in transit to or from Central America. So it is an area that is not only more exotic but much quieter than other areas to the north.

These areas are not as well documented by the cruising guides as the regions to the north, so this video fills in much of that void by showing loads of detailed maps and offering a ton of information about where to anchor, where to snorkel, and what to do, both around town and out of town.

 

Cruising Mexico Cover Volume 3 281

Cruising Mexico Off the Beaten Path
Colonial Cities – Oaxaca
Volume 3 – Front Cover

Cruising Mexico – Off the Beaten Path – Volume 3
Colonial Cities – Oaxaca
Purchase as an Instant Download

In this 40 minute video we take an inland trip to Oaxaca, one of Mexico’s most beloved colonial cities.  We explain how and where to leave the boat, different modes of transport to Oaxaca and what to see and do in this glorious city.

For many travelers, Oaxaca is their favorite destination in all of Mexico, and it is a definite “must see” for cruisers.  Boasting a lively town square and several grand churches, Oaxaca is filled with stately, centuries-old colonial architecture, yet has an engaging, energetic, youthful and artsy vibe.

 

 

 

 

These videos are available at Amazon:

TESTIMONIALS – QUOTES FROM EMAILS WE’VE RECEIVED

“My husband was enthralled. I loved it.”

“The DVD we watched last night was not only a good reminder of a wonderful season we had, but gave us MANY things to look at doing when we sail south again next season.”

“Wanted to get back to you and let you know how much we enjoyed the video’s. Your correct, they will be invaluable for future reference.”

On the Road to your Dreams, Stay the Course!

Driving in Utah brings one jaw-dropping view after another...

Yet another breathtaking drive in Utah. For us it was worth it
to give up our stuff for endless scenic drives like this.

Getting up the guts to untie the dock lines and go cruising, or to drive out of the driveway and hit the road in an RV full-time, is often the hardest part of starting a new life of adventure and travel.

Once you’ve set up camp a few times in your rig, or dropped the hook a few times along the coast, new patterns begin to get established and eventually the new lifestyle becomes routine.

But taking that first step — saying goodbye to all that is familiar and comfortable — can be truly frightening.

 

 

Pangas in Huatulco

Before we began cruising in our sailboat,
we knew nothing about Mexico.

Before we started full-time RVing in 2007, I used to sit in our home and gaze out the window and wonder how in the world we would ever be able to leave home and go live in a trailer.

A life on the road sounded so thrilling, but in many ways it seemed so impossible to achieve. Our house “needed us” to keep everything running right…would tenants trash the place?  Our friends and family were all staying put…would our relationships survive the long distances and time apart?  And we had so much stuff (and it was good stuff too!)…would we regret letting it go?

Sunrise in Puerto Balandra

We didn’t have sunsets like this in our neighborhood back home!
Puerto Balandra in the Sea of Cortez

 

 

 

 

 

 

As we sold off almost all of our belongings and put the rest in a shed behind a friend’s house, a mixture of terror and excitement filled our hearts.

 

Rainbow over fifth wheel

A rainbow over our rig in Flaming Gorge Utah

When we drove out of our neighborhood the last time, we headed 1,000 miles east with all our remaining worldly possessions in the back of our truck.

We were on our way to pick up a new rolling home that we had purchased online — sight unseen — and we were both utterly thrilled.

But at the same time a tiny voice inside asked, “what have we done?”

When we arrived at the RV dealership outside Dallas, we discovered our brand new trailer had been sitting on the lot for a year and was full of black mold under the fridge.

Cathedral Gorge, Nevada

We found this fascinating place (Cathedral Gorge)
while driving down the road in Nevada!

Holy cow!! What had we just done?

On our first trip to a laundromat, Mark looked at me glumly. “So this is it from now on,” he said.  “Laundromats… I used to have a really nice washer and dryer of my own!”

Oh dear… What in the world had we just done?

We can look back at those early days now and laugh.

In the end, Marshall’s RV Center was very upstanding and replaced our trailer with a fresh-off-the-line unit that was perfect in every respect.

 

 

Natural Bridges National Monument

A great spot to sit for a spell — Natural Bridges, Utah.

And we gradually got used to laundromats, and now enjoy doing three (or four, or five) loads of laundry simultaneously.

We returned to our home when we had been on the road for four years, and after just 10 days of painting and repairing, the place looked better than when we lived there ourselves!

After six years on the road, we returned again to do the same thing, with the same result. Maybe our home “needed us,” but apparently in small doses!

But what a lot of panicky feelings we went through on the way to those happy endings!

 

Cathedral steeples in Guanajuato

We had no idea our sailboat would introduce us to
sights like this in Guanajuato, Mexico

I think these kinds of mixed emotions and rocky beginnings are common among many new full-timers and cruisers.

As one friend wrote to me in an email during his final weeks before he left San Diego to cruise Mexico: “This is a confusing time, as we have wanted to do this for a long time, but getting ready is very stressful. Everything about it is scary.”

Emotions run extraordinarily high as you force yourself to let go of almost every material thing you’ve ever held dear, often for ten cents on the dollar, or less, at garage sales.

 

Idaho's Sawtooth Mountains

Leaving behind familiarity, comfort and stability, we opened our lives to
experience the beauty and wonder of places like Idaho’s Sawtooth Mountains.

How hard it is to see your precious things get snatched up by vulturous yard-salers.

And — for cruisers especially — how frightening it is to see all the money you have carefully saved all your life, dollar by dollar, suddenly flying out of your bank account thousand by thousand.

No one REALLY told you that this is what outfitting your boat for self-sufficiency and safety in third-world countries would be all about… did they?

 

A fawn

A fawn stops to look at us

This preparation phase can shake you to the core.

Yet if you don’t hold fast to your dream, and march through these transitional days with strong resolve, you can’t ever open yourself to the new life that awaits you on the other side.

If your heart soars at the idea of sailing off over the horizon, or you long to sample a more exotic life on the road, pursuing that dream will ultimately push you out of your comfort zone. Only by accepting that can you escape the “same old same old.”

If you get scared, and give in, and give up before you ever get going, you are effectively saying your dream isn’t worthwhile.

Dreams are flighty and delicate. They flit around us like butterflies on a warm summer day, hard to pin down, and quick to fly off out of sight.

playing guitar on a boat

A tranquil moment at anchor aboard Groovy

Reaching out to catch our dreams can be a stretch. But we have to take that leap of faith, and sometimes even suffer a little scary uncertainty, if we want to make them come true.

Ironically, after six years on the road, three in a fifth wheel and three in a sailboat, Mark and I find ourselves right where we started, as we rearrange our lives to support our new dreams.

We are giving up cruising, resuming full-time RVing, and we plan on traveling in other ways too.

For all those wonderful things to happen, though, we have to make some big changes.

Santiago Sunrise

Glorious sunrises are routine in Manzanillo Bay!

For starters, we need to sell everything we bought for the boat, and sell the boat too.

Over the past few weeks, we have held a daily Cockpit Sale aboard Groovy in San Diego and sold off piles of wonderful cruising gear

How great it is that we never needed our EPIRB (emergency radio beacon) or spare storm anchor or spare macerator pump.

But how hard it is to let them go for half of what we paid.

 

An all day every day cockpit sale on Groovy.

An all day every day cockpit sale on Groovy.

It is not quite as hard as getting rid of a 25 year accumulation of stuff like we did when we started full-timing, but it entails the same mixed sense of loss — and of growing freedom.

To make things even more complicated, our tenants’ lease on our home is up and they have moved out.

We like to choose who lives in our home, so this new wrinkle has forced us to dash to Phoenix to tidy up the place and find new people to live there.

Saguaro cactus in the clouds

A saguaro cactus stands amid
monsoon clouds in Arizona

 

 

 

Putting the Cockpit Sale on hold for a bit, we are now in Phoenix, sleeping on an air mattress and using paper plates and plastic utensils in our empty home, as we clean and repair little things and show the place to prospective tenants.

All of our incredible travels suddenly seem like a distant dream. Stranger still, I am now gazing out the windows of our former home, and I am wondering how in the world we will ever get from here into our next phase of life.

The anchorage at Las Hadas Resort

I never imagined we would anchor in places like this —
Las Hadas Resort in Manzanillo Mexico.

I can envision it, but it seems worlds away.

Gorgeous red rocks at Capitol Reef Utah

Gorgeous red rocks at Capitol Reef Utah

 

We need tenants.

We need a boat buyer.

We need to sell the rest of our cruising stuff and downsize back into our trailer.

The key, I think, both for first-timers and for folks like us that are making a midstream adjustment to their traveling lifestyle, is to Stay the Course.

I’ve said this to lots of people who have emailed me in a panic in the last weeks before they take off on their dream adventure. Now it is time for us to remind ourselves of this important message too!!

The beauty of full-timing is that we can boondock among Utah's red rocks as long as we like.

The beauty of full-timing is that we can boondock among Utah’s red rocks as long as we like.

hobie mirage i14t tandem inflatable kayak

First days with our super fun kayak in Florida

When we were going through our initial big sell-off, before we moved into our trailer, my mom asked me how I could part with so much of my personal memorabilia.

In a way, purging all that stuff was like clearing out a place in my own soul.

Only by letting go of it all could I make room for new memories, new experiences and new thrills.

 

porta-bote portabote

Mark and his son check out our slick new porta-bote.

If I clung too tightly to my past, I wouldn’t have room for the future.

And so it is now as I watch other people walk away from our boat with our fins, our cruising guides, our kayak, our dive tanks, our cool portable VHF radio and our dinghy.

Each holds precious memories — both of choosing the gear in anticipation of our cruise and of putting it to use in Mexico — and in each item I see a younger and more innocent me who embraced our cruising life with such enthusiasm.

Groovy anchored in Tangolunda Bay, Huatulco

Groovy anchored in Tangolunda Bay, Huatulco

Now it is time to let it all go.

We could try to keep all that stuff — we might use some of it again — but our new life is still on the road, and there is absolutely no room for any of it in our already full fifth wheel trailer.

If we need any of it in the future, we can buy it again.  That may not be the most cost-effective approach, but at least we won’t have had to lug it around with us either.

 

 

Big hole Montana boondocking

A rainbow over our rig in Montana’s Bitterroot Valley

Likewise, as I sit between our home’s bare walls and wonder when those wonderful new prospective tenants we’re waiting for will suddenly walk in the door and fall in love with our place, I have to dig deep for the faith that they will indeed show up, that they will truly love our home, and that they will pay the rent on time.

A big part of having a dream and pursuing it is also having the faith that all the pieces will fall into place and allow it to come true.

For three straight weeks we have turned into expert salesmen, day in and day out, selling everything we have right out from under us, from tarps and fishing gear to a lease on our home.

Standing on a corner

Standin’ on the corner in Winslow Arizona

But this uncertainty, and these weird feelings, and this soul searching are all part of the process.  They are the small toll we must pay to transit the gate to where our dream lifestyle not only resumes but takes flight.

Once past all this, once our new adventures get going, I now know that I will eventually look back on these days and remember this younger me, gazing out these very same windows, wondering how it will all come together.

I will look back, too, and remember how, beneath my nervousness, I was so full of anticipation, expectation and hope.

Sunrise in Huatulco

Good monring sunshine!

 

If you are working towards a dream of escape, and putting together the many pieces that will go into a new life of full-time travel, remember: Stay the Course.

When things get a little emotional, and you question your own sanity, and you wonder if giving up your current life for a fragile dream will be worth it in the end, have faith in your vision.

If you are like us, with wanderlust and adventure in your soul, imagine yourself in your final years. Which will be most fulfilling to reminisce about, a lifetime of possessions or a lifetime of experiences?

When you fear your dream may not work out, believe — with all your heart — that your innermost yearnings and your deepest desires are right for you.

You will cherish the days when those intangible longings have become the very essence of your day to day life.

 

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Reunion and farewell – Reflections on a passage

Happy family times aboard Groovy

Happy family times aboard Groovy

One of the great joys of returning to San Diego with our sailboat Groovy is that the gods aligned our family stars and made San Diego a natural gathering place for the whole family clan.

Sheer good fortune saw Mark’s son Rory get relocated to San Diego right about the same time we sailed into port.

To make things even merrier, his daughter Amanda and her two little girls were just a day’s drive away.

There is nothing quite so fulfilling after being away for a very long time as seeing the happy faces of loved ones.

 

At the beach

At the beach

While we had been caught up in the craziness of bringing our boat north and then selling everything we owned right out from under ourselves, including the boat, the arrival of our two granddaughters made all our cares and concerns melt away in an instant.

Playing with them and watching them cut loose with their mom and uncle made our hearts sing.

They are utterly charming and as different as night and day.  As all kids do, they are rapidly growing up, and every time we see them they have changed and matured.

Sheer joy

Sheer joy

Yet at seven and nine, they are still innocent and free.

Everything is an adventure, the world is an inviting and wonderful place, and whenever life gets a little uncertain, all you have to do is hug a stuffed animal or two.

Reunions like this are so precious, and with both Rory and ourselves immersed in lives that take us to far-flung places, we will all always cherish our family moments together aboard Groovy and on San Diego’s beaches during these happy days.

Life's a beach!

Life’s a beach!

One of the best things has been listening to them all chatter about their upcoming plans and future goals.

Whether it is the promise of joining the Junior Cheerleading Squad after turning ten, or taking on the heights of Mt. Whitney on a rigorous hike with other twenty-somethings, or simply being able to go home and brag to the other second graders that you did the Atlantis ride at Sea World three times, they are all excited about everything that life has to offer.

Manning the helm

Manning the helm

The energy of the little girls running around on the beach dragging kelp tails behind them and digging in the sand left us happily breathless.

Where does that energy go as the years pass by?

How is it that we grow from eyes of wonder at seven to eyes of youthful anticipation at twenty-seven to eyes of experience and sometimes exhaustion some thirty years later?

This cycle of life never stops, and the old generation gives way to the young ones coming up behind.  Our parents walk before us, just a baby step ahead, passing through each phase of life just enough years in advance that we can pause to think about it for a minute or two before we arrive at that age ourselves.

 

 

Playing in the waves

Playing in the waves

And so it was that a few nights ago I came back from the gym here at the marina and pranced down our companionway stairs still glowing from a good hard workout and a piping hot shower to find Mark sitting motionless in front of his computer.

I made a smart remark to him about the Beatles music he was playing.  In our home there is always a musical tug of war going on between the Beatles and my classical favorites.

Invariably, as soon as I step out the door I can hear Paul McCartney serenading me as I walk down the dock.  And as soon as Mark slips away, the cabin is filled with Chopin or Mendelssohn or Brahms.

Uncle Rory

Is there anyone more fun than Uncle Rory?

“It’s John Lennon,” he said flatly.

Sure enough, it was, and I thought nothing of it as I chirped away about my awesome workout.  Beatles, Lennon, it’s all the same great stuff.  Whatever!

I washed my water bottle and stole a look over Mark’s shoulder at his computer screen.  There was a photo of a boy sitting under a big tree.

“Great photo!” I said cheerily.  “Did you take that this afternoon?” I thought it might be one of the beautiful huge trees on Shelter Island.

Mark didn’t respond, which was strange.

My eyes fell lower to the words below the photo.  “My Mummy’s Dead.”  It said.  Then I heard John Lennon’s plaintive voice singing those very words on YouTube:  “My Mummy’s Dead.”

 

Gladys

Mark’s mom, Gladys

I came around to Mark’s side and saw tears streaming down his face.  Oh no.  I reached for him as my own tears began to slide down my cheeks.  He didn’t need to say a thing.  I knew.  His mother had just died.

There are few pains in this world quite as severe as losing a parent.  The void it leaves is immense, and the rootlessness it leaves you with is shattering.  When my dad died, even though we weren’t close, my world unexpectedly collapsed.  And now, even though Mark and I had been anticipating his mother’s death for a long time, we were completely unprepared.

I looked at Mark and suddenly saw the young boy within him.  His face was innocent, and his expression no longer had the strong lines of a man.

He was his mother’s beautiful little boy, the son she had held close to her heart from the day he arrived.

Mom and baby son

Dear mom and her baby boy

Why do we lose our parents, and where do they go?  It is one thing to be stranded in a supermarket aisle at age three, terrified that mom has left us forever.

In those days, though, she always turned up again, with the help of a kindly store clerk, and we always found out she just went to the next aisle and didn’t realize we hadn’t followed.

Not this time.

Or maybe, just maybe, with the grace of God who will eventually steer us the right way, perhaps it is just the same this time.

When I held the small marble urn containing my father’s ashes at the edge of his grave, my world reeled out of control.

How could my father, a huge, six foot tall, three hundred pound man whose brilliant mind was filled with dreams and theories and really strong opinions and beautiful music possibly fit into this tiny urn?  Where was he really?

It seemed a curtain had been closed between us.  A thick, rich, dark red, velvet curtain now somehow kept him from me.

x

Mother and son

Sadly, we too will eventually pass to the other side of that curtain, and our kids and loved ones will be left standing right behind us, just as baffled as we are now, trying to heal their broken hearts while wondering where we went.

The very next day Mark’s son picked us up early to go on a little hike.  “It’s got some scrambling,” he said casually, “but it’s not too hard.”

Besides getting some fresh air, we were all looking forward to some photo ops.  How fortunate we are to share a new-found love of photography.  Mark was ecstatic to have an opportunity to pass on all he’s learned to his apt and eager son.

At the trailhead, we didn’t notice the sign that said, “Extremely steep and rugged terrain.” “Strenuous conditions.” “Technical climbing.” and “Proceed at your own risk.”

Father and son

Father and son

It was an epic hike that pushed us physically. Between the blazing sun, the scraped knees, and the dirt covered rumps, all traces of our emotional pain were blissfully swept away.

Mark and I watched Rory effortlessly glide over the challenging terrain while we pussy-footed and tripped and wimpered here and there.

I was reminded, yet again, of what a strapping, handsome and able young man he has become while his little boy self is but a memory that Mark sometimes wistfully shares with me.

As we hiked, he swung across a crevasse with a rope and leaped down from a great height with the kind of ease and grace we are sure we once had.

Leaps tall buildings in a single bound

Leaps tall buildings in a single bound

 

We scrambled along and managed those feats too, but our movements weren’t as fluid or as confident, and there was a cautiousness about us that reflected the three decades that stand between us.

As Mark said at one point while watching Rory’s beautiful physique rippling like a tiger’s, “Why don’t I have muscles like that?”

I’m so grateful I got to know Mark’s mom Gladys when she was a spry 69.  She and her beloved husband Joe radiated joy, and from what I could see they had it made in the shade.  Retired and loving life, they traveled between Michigan and Florida with the seasons and didn’t seem to have a care in the world.

Anywhere they went, whether visiting our house, or staying in a rented house in Florida, or living in their own house in Michigan, their presence always made the house a home.

I remember coming in from work one night, dog tired and a little bit cranky, to find the two of them, now our houseguests, sitting on our sofa watching TV, as content as any two people could ever be.

The lights were low and they were smiling.

Joe and Gladys - two peas in a pod

Joe and Gladys – two peas in a pod

A sense of calm swept over me.

The house was warm, and the kitchen smelled yummy, and I noticed Gladys had left a delicious dinner waiting for us in pots on the stove.

As Mark and I scarfed down her tasty home cooking, I suddenly felt like a kid in high school.  It didn’t matter that I was forty-four and that it was our house; for a few days Gladys and Joe made us feel like we were living at home with our parents again.

Gladys and Joe were married over six decades, and they truly seemed to blend into one. In everything they did there was a seamlessness between him and her.  They were our mentors in many ways, and Mark and I hoped we would be as lucky in life — and as gracious — as they had been.

This wonderful photo was taken by JR Halanski

But time marches on, and now, as we rummage through old photos to find pics of Gladys before her illness, we find pics of the grandgirls when they were just babies and pics of Mark’s kids in high school and pics of ourselves getting married.

We have always felt the press of time to pursue our dreams.  Who knows when the big velvet curtain will be drawn across our lives.  Too often we meet people who have postponed their dreams beyond their time, not knowing their time would be up so soon.

Our tears are still close to the surface as we reach out for that hollow place where Gladys used to be.  Just moments ago, Mark said quietly, “I can’t believe my mom is gone,” and the tears flowed once again.

Yet, at the same time, our kids and grandkids are growing, and their dreams are expanding, and their lives are open books still in their earliest chapters.  We will soar as they soar, one wingtip ahead of them in the paceline.

Precious memories

Making precious memories together