Darby, MT – Fun Surprises in the Bitterroot Valley

Hamilton, MT, farmer's market eggs

Nita sells colorful eggs

Late July, 2012 – Right on the heels of our wonderful Bittersweet Guitars factory tour came the Hamilton, MT, Farmer’s Market.  Nita was selling her colorful eggs from her many egg-laying birds: turkey, duck and goose eggs were mixed in among chicken eggs, and her carefully hand-written sign explained that if you got a bad egg she would happily replace it with a good one.

Kids at the Hamilton, MT, Farmer's Market

Belle of the Ball

Nita was a fun old gal to chat with, but the real belle of the ball that morning was a little girl not quite two years old.  She already had the looks and style of a high fashion model.

Fun kids at the Hamilton, MT, farmer's market

Mark and Savannah play with the camera

Mark enjoyed hanging out with the two-year-old set for a while, and little Savannah loved making faces and then looking at her picture in the back of his camera.  This market is a family affair and the whole place was filled with kids.  What fun.

Flower at the Hamilton, MT, farmer's marketFrom Hamilton we made our way to Darby where we found the Pioneer Memorial Library filled with treasures from bygone days.  Ned was our tour guide there, and he pointed out an axe cover that his granddad had made from an old cowboy boot and a scale used for weighing buffalo.  Most intriguing was the telephone switchboard.  Ned’s mom had been a switchboard operator on a unit just like the one on display.

Telephone switchboard, Darby, MT

Telephone switchboard

I’d only seen these things in the movies and was surprised at how small it was – room for just one person.  There were Missoula phone books from the 1920’s and 30’s on display too.  Almost every family listed in the phone book was at an address given vaguely as “ranch N of Darby” or “ranch S of Hamilton.”  No street names!  The phone book also touted the ease of using the telephone, saying how friends and family were “right beside you.”  It explained in detail the sound and purpose of the busy signal.

1930's era Missoula, MT, phone book

1930’s era phone book

Reading that and thinking about my project of migrating our website to WordPress, integrating it with “social media,” and wanting it to look good on a smartphone made me laugh.  What would the people of those days have thought (as they read their little phone books telling them that the sound of a ringing bell in their ear-piece meant the phone was ringing at the other party’s house) if you had told them what was to come?  Of course many of them are with us today, romping around on the internet with joyful abandon.

Behind bars at the Darby, MT, Sherriff's office

The Darby, MT, Sherriff has a sense of humor

The Sherriff in Darby is a history buff, and he oversaw the renovation of part of his offices to replicate an old-time Sherriff’s office and jail.  Mark and I jumped behind bars for a quick pic.

Darby, MT, Logger Days

Darby, MT, is known for Logger Days

Darby is well-known for their Logger Days festival in July, and the preparations were in full-swing.  Rows of log towers had gone up for the log climbing competition, and a pool was being filled with water for the log rolling competition.  We missed the actual events, but folks in town kept asking us, “Have you seen the library?”  This seemed like something we definitely shouldn’t miss, and sure enough, when we stepped inside we were really surprised.

Darby, MT, library

Darby Library

For a town with a population of less than 750, the little library would do a much larger town proud, both for its construction and for what it says about the community.  Lots of people retire to the Darby area from scientific careers launched with PhD’s years ago (GlaxoSmithKline and NIH have large research facilities in the area), and grant writing and philanthropic giving are second nature to them.  At the same time, one of the challenges facing the local logging industry is the plethora of small-diamater timber that is clogging the woods.

Darby, MT, library is made from small-diameter timber

Vaulted ceilings in an unusual structure

Winning a grant from the National Forest Service and its Madison, WI, forest products lab (along with other grants and gifts), Darby built a library that is uniquely engineered and is the first of its kind, showcasing a clever construction technique that takes advantage of under-utilized small-diameter timber.  Rather than using single fat logs, the posts and beams in this library are made with groups of four skinny poles, and the visual effect (and physical soundness) is terrific.

Darby, MT, Library: unique use of small-diamter wood

Unique use of skinny poles

Groups of tourists from all over the world have come to admire the construction of what the locals affectionately call the “Sistine Chapel of Small-Diameter Round Wood.”  What a beautiful, sun-filled space this special library is for a quiet morning of reading or computer work.

Cyclist in Darby, MT, rides from OK to CA

Long-distance cyclist Mary McDaniel

The Bitterroot Valley is also a popular thoroughfare for cyclists on long-distance adventures.  We saw dozens of cyclists loaded down with panniers.  Mary and Kurt McDaniel had spent the last 7 weeks riding from Oklahoma, and they were on their way to San Francisco by way of Canada’s Jasper National Park.  These cycling travelers often group and re-group with each other on the road, and a young fellow from Korea had joined the for a leg of his travels that were taking him from Atlanta to California.

chipmunk in Gibbons Pass, MTThe cyclists urged us to drive the nearby wildflower-filled meadows of Gibbons Pass.  Out on this pretty road we saw a brown sign saying, “Hogan Cabin,” so we took the turn, expecting to find a historic cabin.  Nope!  An elderly couple emerged from the cabin as we pulled up and said to us, “We sure didn’t expect any visitors!”  Huh?  Wasn’t this public property owned by the NFS or another government agency?  “Oh sure, but we rented it for the night.  $35!  Shhh – it’s the best kept camping secret around!”

Hogan Cabin, Gibbons Pass, MT

Hogan Cabin, Gibbons Pass

Wow.  We had no idea that the NFS rented out cabins!  This was an old ranger’s cabin and inside was a wonderful pot-bellied stove and bunk beds.  We sat outside with our newfound friends and enjoyed the late afternoon sun.  It was as if they’d invited us to stop by and visit them at their own personal mountain retreat.

From the south end of the Bitterroot Valley we headed on towards Big Hole, Montana, where we found life-giving hot springs and gorgeous camping.

 

 

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A Craftsman’s Dream Fulfilled: BitterSweet Guitars in the Bitterroot, MT

Big Creek Coffee Roasters, Hamilton, MT

Big Creek Coffee Roasters

Mid-July – After enjoying some ranching and quilting fun in Montana’s Bitterroot Valley, we strolled the cute town of Hamilton where there is a high-end, ambiance-rich, specialty coffee bistro on every corner.  Our kind of town!  Wandering down one street, Mark noticed a guitar shop, and just had to stop in.  We got chatting with Cody, the young owner who, together with his wife Nichole, has taught guitar since they were in their early twenties and had recently purchased the store, Mountain Music Learning Center.

Mountain Music Center, Hamilton, MT

Mountain Music Center

The wall was lined with Taylor and Takamine acoustic guitars, both of which Mark has owned and liked.  But tucked in among them were another brand, BitterSweet Guitars.  “I make those,” a voice said behind me.  Our eyes popped open as we turned to see a friendly looking fellow with a mustache.  Really?  Hand-made guitars and the builder right here on a stool at the counter??  His name was Ken Rumbaugh, and it turned out his workshop was just outside of town.

 

Playing at Mountain Music Center, Hamilton, MT

Cody & Ken strum a bit

He took a guitar down off the wall, strummed a few chords, and then began jamming with store owner Cody.  What fun!  Next thing we knew, Ken was inviting us to come see his workshop.  What an opportunity!!  A few hours later our buggy rattled down some narrow lanes as we followed Ken’s directions.   The pretty Bitterroot mountains made a picturesque backdrop in the distance across farm fields.

BitterSweet Guitar Shop, Hamilton, MT

Ken shows off his sign

Then there it was, the ten foot tall playable guitar Ken had built as BitterSweet Guitar’s sign.  Hopping out of the truck, the first thing we noticed after the enormous guitar was a cool ancient truck parked out back and a nosy sheep that stuck his head through the fence to have a look at us.  As Ken led us into the workshop we passed a large bank of Outback solar charge controllers.  The shop was powered primarily by solar power!

But like all of us who live with solar power, there were limits.  Our fifth wheel’s 490 watts gives us everything we need in the buggy except air conditioning.  Ken’s 5,000 watts in his workshop gives him everything he needs but his big air compressor… This was the second commercial building we had seen using banks of Outback controllers (the first was the NOLS school in the Sea of Cortez).

Classic old car

Classic!

Sheep head through fence

Peek-a-boo!

 

 

 

 

 

 

BitterSweet Guitar Factory, Hamilton, MT

BitterSweet Guitar Factory

The BitterSweet Guitar workshop was filled with a wonderful array of sweet smelling wood and sawdust, impressive power tools, and instruments in various stages of completion and repair.  Along with building guitars, Ken repairs stringed instruments of all kinds.

"Tater Bug" Mandolin, BitterSweet Guitar Repairs

“Tater Bug” Mandolin

Throughout our tour he kept returning to a lovely “tater bug” mandolin, whose neck was in clamps, to check on it, as it needed to move on to its next phase of repair once the glue had been at a certain temperature for four hours.

 

Side of a guitar, BitterSweet Guitars

Beautiful curvy side panel

Ken walked us through every step of building a guitar, from selecting and shaping the wood for the sides to creating the neck and headstock to attaching the front and back.  Who knew that every guitar’s front panel is rounded as if it were part of the skin of a 32′ diameter ball?

BitterSweet Guitar Headstock

BitterSweet Guitar Headstock

He showed us a BitterSweet Guitar headstock inlaid with beautiful, iridescent, abalone pieces in the shape of a flower.  Each guitar was crafted with carefully matched wood patterns, and he spoke warmly of his customers who each come to him with very particular requests for their instruments.

Building guitars at BitterSweet Guitar, Hamilton, MT

Fitting a side panel into the jig

Guitars emerging from this shop are works of art.

Ken learned his craft as a young man, hanging around the Martin factory that was near his home in New Jersey.  The workers were happy to share tips with him, and he dumpster dove behind the factory to pick up and study their cast off necks, bridges and headstocks.  Having sold his cabinet-making business after many years, he now builds guitars as a fun retirement job.  What a satisfying skill to have.

Hamilton, Montana

Ride ’em Cowboy!

A few days later we met up with Ken once again at the Hamilton Farmer’s Market.  This is a lively summer Saturday morning event, and Ken, along with his bandmates, made wonderful music on the green in front of the county courthouse where there is a marvelous wooden statue of a rodeo bronco.

We hung around the Bitterroot Valley area a while longer, and returned to the Mountain Music Learning Center guitar shop briefly so Mark could learn the opening strains of a song shop-owner Cody had played so easily when we were first there (White Lion’s “When the Children Cry”).  And eventually we moseyed down to the small town of Darby, MT, where we found a unique library and ended up behind bars.

Music at the Hamilton Farmer's Market in Montana

Music at the Farmer’s Market

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Bitterroot Valley, MT – Traditional Roots in the Modern Age

Barn in the Bitterroot Valley, Montana

Barns add color to the scenery.

Mid-July, 2012 – When we left Mesa Falls, Idaho, and its glistening rainbow behind, we crossed into Montana to visit friends in the Bitterroot Valley.  This is a valley rich with the spirit of another time and place, where ranching still plays an important role.  Yet at the same time we heard rumors that some of the most astronomically rich, like the founder of Intel, own mammoth estates in the hillsides, giving the area a certain mystique.

Christmas in July

Christmas in July!

Our life on the road is far from grandiose.  In fact we have a hard time buying any kind of mail order goods, as not all things can be shipped to “General Delivery” at some post office somewhere.  Knowing we were headed to a real address, we went a little crazy mail ordering things we had wanted for ages.  Our friends Bob & Donna Lea very kindly became good buddies with the UPS and FedEx delivery people who brought a year’s worth of our shopping to their doorstep.  Donna Lea put bows on all the boxes and we celebrated a very fun “Christmas in July.”

Ranchers in the Bitterroot Valley

Cole and Bob get ready for work.

 

Their neighbor Carl is a rancher, and he invited us to come over to his ranch to watch a small “cattle drive” as he and his ranch hands moved the herd from munching on grass in one field to dining on another.  I had gotten caught up with computer work and missed the fun, but Mark enjoyed a fabulous morning among horse hooves and snorting cows as the ranchers rounded them all up.

The cows

The cows are about to be moved. Do they know?

Roundup

Cattle roundup

Ranchers on horseback in the Bitterroot Valley, Montana

Cole, Bob, Jack & Carl pose for pics!

These cows are well loved and are more obedient than most, I imagine, and in no time the two dogs and four mounted ranchers had persuaded the stomping and mooing group to move on to greener pastures.

Our ranching host

Carl, our ranch host.

In these parts there is often a trade that goes on between ranching and non-ranching landowners.  There’s a lot of value in having a herd of cows take care of your mowing, especially if you’ve got a lot of acres to mow.  At the same time, the cost of feeding a large group of very large animals can be a bit steep.  So just about the time that a herd of cows needs fresh greens — and just about the time that a non-rancher’s land is beginning to look a little overgrown — the two neighbors get together, shake hands on the trade, and the herd is moved.

Computer driven sewing machine

Computer driven sewing machine!

This is also an area where traditional crafts are treasured, and one morning I joined Donna Lea and her daughter Diana on a trip to the local quilting show.  I love handcrafts, needlework and all things to do with fabric, thread and yarn, so this was a real treat for me.  What a surprise it was to discover that quilting has gone high tech.  The sewing machines were incredible: huge and computer driven with electronic displays where you can select stitches and sizes and everything else.  The fabrics are out of this world as well with photographic quality images of everything from animals to mountains printed in all sorts of hues.  The days of hand stitched geometric designs made of calico patterns are long gone.

Spinning wheel

The old way…

Fortunately the roots of needlework are still valued, and a woman sat at a spinning wheel in the center of the room explaining the old fashioned techniques to an audience of young kids that buzzed around her.

quilt

Modern quilt designs are beautiful.

Best of all, though, was the exhibition of quilts hanging in rows along one end of the hall.  There were historic quilts with notes saying this like, “This quilt was owned by great-aunt Betty in 1927,” and there were traditional quilts made in the old style.  But my favorites were the modern ones that have unusual designs and motifs you would never expect in a hand-made quilt.

The Bitterroot Valley charmed us for two weeks, and we soon discovered more fine craftsmanship in the town of Hamilton, Montana at BitterSweet Guitars.

 

 

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Cruising World Magazine features our story, “Baja Aha!” – September 2012

Posted: August 18, 2012

The September, 2012 issue of Cruising World Magazine is featuring our story about voyaging down the Pacific coast of the Baja Peninsula from San Diego to Cabo San Lucas.

Baja Aha!
Groovy sails south

We had great adventures on that cruise in November, 2010.  We were new to the cruising life and we were a little scared, but we were also very excited.  When darkness fell on our first night offshore, we were surprised to find comforting company over the radio in the pitch black.  Our beginner’s luck held for a few days, but of course cruising wouldn’t be cruising without mishaps…

The article is called “Baja Aha” and should be on newsstands until mid-September.  I’m really proud to have made it into this prestigious magazine.  Check it out and let us know how you liked it!!

If you don’t subscribe to CW, it’s a great magazine.  I’ve subscribed off-and-on since the late 1980’s!  Here are subscription links for both the print and Kindle editions.  Did you know you can get a year of CW for $1.99 on Kindle?!!  (It’s the link with no price listed…)  Save those trees!

 

Mesa Falls Scenic Byway, ID – Pretty Waterfalls

The Tetons!

Mid-July, 2012 – We left the corner of Wyoming near Afton and journeyed north into Idaho.  We were doing our route planning to take in as many official “scenic byways” as possible, so now we followed Idaho’s Teton Scenic Byway.

We had been to Grand Teton National Park at the beginning of our travels in 2007 and had been awe-struck by the jagged beauty and majesty of the mountain peaks.  The national park is on the eastern side of the mountains in Wyoming, and its roads wind right along the base of the mountains.

The Teton Scenic Byway in Idaho is on the western side and the road is much further distant from the mountains, running right through the rich valley farmlands.  The views were lovely, but unfortunately the sky and lighting didn’t cooperate with us on that particular day, and the smoke from nearby wildfires made the mountains hazy at best.

Spuds!

But a real highlight was to drive through fields and fields of perfectly spaced, rolling rows of green plants.  “What do you think that is?” I asked Mark.  “Hmmm….” He mused.  “This is Idaho… which is spud country… Idaho potatoes maybe??”   Yup!  We soon saw a sign saying that this was “seed potato” country.  It explained that many farmers in the area are third and fourth generation seed potato farmers and that after storing the potatoes through the winter in cool cellars many are cut into 2″ cubes in the spring to create the next season’s crop.

Upper Mesa Falls

Where the Teton Scenic Byway leaves off the Mesa Falls Scenic Byway begins, and we made the turn onto that road.  Two beautiful waterfalls give this scenic byway its name.  The Lower Falls is very pretty, but the Upper Falls is a stunner.  We were glad to have our National Park Pass because these falls are one of those “federal lands” area with an entrance fee that is covered by the pass.

Waterfall Mist

The afternoon light lit up the mist that foamed off of the falls, and we wandered up and down the enormous walkways and stairways that cascade along the edge of the falls for tourists.

As we were leaving we noticed three fellows carrying kayaks up the stairs.  It turned out they were had just kayaked 8 miles down the river, and apparently that stretch of river is excellent white water and rapids.  Fortunately they had stopped short of the falls!!  Mark wanted to get a picture of me with them — and when one of them playfully put his arm around me for the shot I discovered he was sopping wet from head to toe!  That got me laughing.

Crazy wet kayakers!

The Upper Falls are known for the rainbow that forms in the mist in the mornings, and we set the alarm to make sure we caught the rainbow at its peak according to what a ranger told us.  Out of laziness we hadn’t changed the clocks in the trailer since leaving Arizona two months earlier, but we we knew we were off by an hour.  Well, we were off by an hour the other way!  So we got to the falls in the freezing cold semi-darkness and were just about frozen to the bone by the time the little rainbow finally made its first showing.

The falls create a rainbow each morning.

The Upper Falls is also home to the Big Falls Inn, a cool old log cabin built in 1915 by Snake River Electric Light & Power Co. as an office/residence for workers.

Big Falls Inn – from the Power Company!

Over the years it has been used in many ways — as a way station for travelers on Yellowstone Highway,

Baby robins

as a dance hall, and as a corporate retreat.  In 1986 the Forest Service acquired it through a land exchange.

We had simpler accommodations in our buggy nearby, but outside our window a little robin’s nest was full of open-mouthed chicks!

Continuing our journey north, our road wandered out of Idaho and into the Bitteroot Valley of Montana.

 

 

 

 

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Afton, Wyoming – Cowgirl Town!

Early July, 2012 – After spending the 4th of July beachside at Bear Lake, Utah, amid jet skis and sailboats, we rolled north.  The scenery changed gradually and no longer had that aura of waterplay and vacation.  Old barns and big hay fields began to dominate the landscape.

We pulled into Afton, Wyoming, and had to stop.  It’s not always easy to find a place to park a big long rig, but this town made it very clear exactly where the public parking was: a wooden cowgirl stood high up on a lamppost with a gun pointing the way.  Of course, we found it easier just to park along the side of the road than to try to squeeze into a lot!

This is cowboy country, ranching country, and hunting country for sure.  Elk shed their antlers every year, and there is such an overabundance of antlers lying around these parts that the locals get very creative finding ways to use them.


An arch made entirely of elk antlers crosses the main street with a sign on it saying, “Afton, Wyoming.”  Above it two elk are butting heads.


We ventured a little further north to find an overnight spot in tiny Alpine, Wyoming, where a wonderful sunset turned the mountains brilliant colors before fading.

We woke in the morning to find a truck full of cattle had pulled in next to us overnight.

The constant stomping and peeing of those cows made quite a racket, but it was the driver’s awesome handlebar mustache and hook where his hand had once been that got us grinning.

The small towns along this route were all very cute.  Alpine sits at the base of Palisades Lake, and as we drove along its eastern shore the next morning we discovered there is tons of wonderful boondocking along that shore.

We stopped in one pullout to get some photos but kept on rolling, vowing to come back some day to check out the lakeside camping options.

We were now flirting with the Wyoming and Idaho borders and decided to check out two more officially scenic drives: Idaho’s Teton Scenic Byway and Mesa Falls Scenic Byway.

 

 

 

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Bear Lake, UT – The Caribbean of the Rockies

Thistle at Sunset

Thistle at Sunset

Utah has happy barns!

Utah has happy barns!

Early July, 2012 – From the alpine forests of Utah’s Mirror Lake Scenic Byway we crossed the bottom corner of Wyoming and then emerged back in Utah at spectacular Bear Lake.

There’s something about Utah that always puts smiles on our faces.  And we aren’t alone.  Even the barns there are smiling.

The Caribbean of the Rockies

The Caribbean of the Rockies

Bear Lake lake is known as The Caribbean of the Rockies, and its vivid turquoise color is why.  As we looked out across the water at the jet skis and colorful catamarans flying past we had to wonder, is this Utah or are we back in Mexico in the Sea of Cortez again?

Sailing on Bear Lake

There is a campground at the south end of the lake with lots of sites that back up to the water.  It was fourth of July weekend and the place was packed.  Everywhere we looked we saw barbecues, boats on trailers, fishing gear, happy dads drinking beer, and kids running around in bathing suits.  From early morning, it seemed, the air was filled with the delicious aroma of grilling steaks.

Bear Lake Sunset

Bear Lake Sunset

One morning we took our bikes along the lake’s shore and discovered the coolest little trailer park.  It had been built long before the other bigger waterfront mansions began to take over along other parts of the shore, but it had been built in the most choice location.  Sitting high on a bluff, these tiny old single-wides had the best views of the lake.

Moonrise over Bear Lake

Moonrise over Bear Lake

Just 600 square feet or so inside, each one had a fantastic, sprawling deck that looked out over the lake, and it was clear from the elaborate patio setups that these folks spent summers outside on the deck!

We were at Bear Lake during the full moon, and it rose over the opposite shore each night, leaving a brilliant trail on the water.

Happy July 4th

We had been here once before, climbing over Logan Pass from the Salt Lake City area to  arrive at the western side of the lake.  This time we hung out at the south end.  It was only as we were leaving that we realized what a big lake this really is – probably 50 miles around the shoreline.

Continuing north along the border of Utah and Wyoming, our next stop was Afton, Wyoming.

 

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Mirror Lake Scenic Byway Utah – Fishing and Fun!

Early July, 2012 – After exploring the pretty Provo Canyon and Alpine Loop Scenic Byways we set our sights on another one of Utah’s beautiful drives, the Mirror Lake Scenic Byway.

This road climbs into the mountains on the way out of northern Utah, pausing at a spectacular summit
before plunging into southern Wyoming.

As it winds through the peaks it takes several sweeping curves between the many alpine lakes.

We parked the buggy in a nice secluded spot in the woods and soon discovered that the sound of rushing water we heard was a huge waterfall that was just a little ways down a narrow trail from the rig.  What a find!  Wildflowers were growing along the water’s edge, and we spent many happy hours among them, marveling at the endless flow of crashing water.

During our stay we hiked to several of the lakes in the area, finding each a little different and pretty in its own way.  The Byway’s namesake Mirror Lake was a hubbub of activity on the Sunday afternoon we visited.

Fishermen lined the banks and kids played on the shore.  The water was filled with floating craft of all kinds, from kayaks to inflatable boats, and despite the many people on the trails and in the water there was a serenity to this lake that was infinitely appealing.

We enjoyed a few blissful days in these alpine lakes and then made our way off the mountain to Evanston, Wyoming.

Criss-crossing the Utah and Wyoming state borders in this area, we continued north towards Utah’s beautiful Bear Lake.  The nickname for this lake is “The Caribbean of the Rockies” and we soon knew why.

 

 

 

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Provo Canyon & Alpine Loop Scenic Byways in Utah

Cows greet us in the morning in Thistle, Utah.

Cows greet us in the morning in

Thistle, Utah.

The Wood Hollow Fire creats an amazing sunset.

The Wood Hollow Fire

creates an amazing sunset.

Wood Hollow Fire Bridal Veil Falls, Provo Canyon, Utah.

Bridal Veil Falls, Provo

Canyon, Utah.

Bridal Veil Falls, Provo Canyon, Utah.

Bridal Veil Falls.

Bridal Veil Falls, Provo Canyon, Utah. South Fork Park, Provo Canyon, Utah. Provo Canyon is a great spot for cycling.

Provo Canyon is a great spot for cycling.

Heber Valley Railroad at Vivian Park.

Heber Valley Railroad.

Heber Valley Railroad at Vivian Park.

They said they like their jobs!

Provo River Parkway, Provo Canyon, Utah.

Provo River Parkway.

Provo River Parkway, Provo Canyon, Utah.

Provo River Parkway.

Cool bike rack.

Cool bike rack.

Waterlilies, Provo Canyon, Utah.

Waterlilies

Water play.

Alpine Loop Scenic Bywa, Utah.

Alpine Loop Scenic Byway.

Chair lifts at Sundance Resort, Utah.

Chair lifts at Sundance.

Downhillers & their bikes get a ride up at Sundance Resort, Utah.

Downhillers & their bikes get a ride up.

Wildflowers, Sundance Resort, Utah. Flowers, Sundance Resort, Utah. Wildflowers on the Alpine Loop Scenic Byway (American Fork), Utah. Wildflowers on the Alpine Loop Scenic Byway (American Fork), Utah. On break from shoot-em-up birthday entertainment at Sundance Resort, Utah.

On break from shoot-em-up birthday

entertainment.

Alpine Loop Scenic Byway, Utah.

Another wildfire.

Wildflowers on the Alpine Loop Scenic Byway (American Fork), Utah. Wildflowers on the Alpine Loop Scenic Byway (American Fork), Utah. Cascade Spring on the Alpine Loop Scenic Byway, Utah.

Cascade Spring on the Alpine Loop

Scenic Byway.

Ahhh….!

Wildflowers on the Alpine Loop Scenic Byway (American Fork), Utah. Wildflowers on the Alpine Loop Scenic Byway (American Fork), Utah.

Provo Canyon Scenic Byway & Alpine Loop Scenic Byway, Utah

Late June, 2012 - We continued our travels north from Fish Lake, Utah with "scenic byways"

on our minds.  We had enjoyed many officially designated "scenic roads" in our travels this

season, and were ready for more -- and the Utah map seemed to be filled with them.  Little did

we know that the "Energy Loop" up Eccles Canyon from Fairview starts with an 8% climb for 8

non-stop miles on a skinny winding road with a steep drop off and no guardrail.

Oops!! The truck struggled mightily, Mark's

knuckles turned white, and I nervously

glanced at the map wondering when the

road would flatten out.  It never did.

At the 6 mile mark we finally spotted

a large pullout and we stopped to let

the truck catch its breath.  Another

truck towing a horse trailer stopped

with us for the same reason, and

the driver assured us there was

great boondocking up top, after just

a few more miles of 8% climbing.  It

sounded tempting, but before I

knew it Mark had headed the buggy straight downhill off

that mountain.  So much for that scenic drive!

At tiny Thistle, Utah, we got a visit at our trailer from a herd of

friendly cows the next morning.  By late afternoon a wildfire had

started in the distant mountains.  It made for a spectacular

sunset, but soon became a devastating blaze.  Within the next

few days it consumed nearly 75 square miles, killed a man, and

destroyed 52 homes.  We later learned it was caused by arcing

power lines that had been laid bare by a thief who stole the

protective copper wire from the poles, although officials said the

power surge was likely too great for even those protections, had

they been in place.

Moving north, we thought the Provo Canyon Scenic Byway looked

promising and ventured that way.  The road was under

construction, but the heavy traffic didn't detract one bit from lovely

Bridal Veil Falls.  Kids played in the pools at the bottom of the falls

while lovers embraced and posed for cameras part way up.  It looked

like a great spot to get engaged and start planning

for that wedding dress and bridal veil.

As we drove we noticed a paved bike path was

accompanying us, and the next day we took a

bike ride along the Provo River Parkway.  It starts

at Vivian Park, and just as we got onto the bike

trail the Heber Valley Railroad train showed up (check out the gorgeous photos at http://

hebervalleyrr.org).  It was on its daily excursion from Heber City, bringing tourists past the mountain/

lake views across Duck Creek Reservoir and through glacier carved Provo Canyon to Vivian Park.

The bike path winds

alongside Provo River

between towering

cliffs.  It is beautifully

constructed with three lanes,

allowing for two directions of

bike traffic and one lane of

foot traffic.

Despite being mid-week the

trail was quite busy all the

way to town.  When we got

into Provo we noticed a

clever bike-shaped bike

rack standing outside one

business.  Another

business had beautiful

landscaping with a huge

lilly pond right out front.  It

was filled with blooming

waterlilies of all colors.

Getting further into the city we

found the entire toddler set from

town was cooling off in the

fountains at the mall.  It was perfect

summertime fun.

As I mentioned, this area is ripe with scenic

drives, and our map highlighted the Alpine

Loop Scenic Byway forking off from Provo

Canyon.  This time we went without the trailer

in tow, and that was the right way to go.  The

road climbed and snaked towards snow-

capped peaks, passing by Robert Redford's

famous ski retreat, Sundance Resort.

What a thrill to see snow-capped mountains!

The snow wasn't thick like last year, we

were told, because of light snows over the

winter, but it was very pretty.  Families

packed themselves into the wide chair lifts

to the tops of the mountains, while downhill

bikers sent their bikes up ahead of them

and followed a few chairs behind.  Those

guys have guts -- the mountains were very

steep!

Wildflowers and landscaped flowers were

in bloom all over the place, and we

entertained ourselves for quite some time

taking photos of their smiling faces.

We hunted around for

"Bob" but he wasn't at his

resort that day.  However, one lucky fellow was celebrating his 70th

birthday by hosting his entire extended family for a long weekend of

fun and entertainment at Sundance.  We met up with two actors who

were on break between the birthday boy's afternoon and

evening entertainment shows. They were dressed to the

nines for a cowboy shoot-em-up.  Stepping out of character

for a few minutes, they told us they had lived and worked

around the resort for ages and had never gotten a glimpse of

"Bob" either.

Continuing on the Alpine Loop Scenic Byway, we

wound up and down on curvy roads through heavy

forests and out onto mountain ridges with wonderful

views.  Wildfires were engulfing all of the west, it

seemed, and another one burned in the distance.

A spur road took us to Cascade Springs where

thickets of wildflowers grew in clumps along the

peaceful banks of a brook.

The water was just too cool and clear to resist, and at

the end of our sweaty hike Mark commented that he

was going to get a bath in the stream.  Mid-laugh I

realized he wasn't joking as I watched him throwing cold

water over his head.

We had gotten a delicious taste of Utah's

alpine forests and snow-capped peaks.

Our next scenic drive along the

Mirror Lake Scenic Byway would take us to

Utah's alpine lakes.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Coast-to-Coast Magazine puts our photo on the Cover AND features our story – Summer 2012!!

cover-coast-to-coast-everything-under-the-sun

Posted: July 1, 2012

The Summer 2012 issue of Coast-to-Coast Magazine has my photo on their cover.  WOW!!  Plus, they are featuring my story, “Everything Under the Sun,” about two fabulous (and little visited) camping areas in Arizona’s Tonto National Forest.

The fifith wheel driving off into the distance in this photo belongs to our friends Bob & Donna Lea Jensen.

25-year veteran snow-bird RVers, they introduced themselves to us on a dark winter night in while we were boondocked near them in Quartzsite, Arizona.  Knowing we didn’t have enough solar power to be able to run our microwave, they brought a bag of hot popcorn over to our cold, unheated trailer.  In the next few weeks they proceeded to teach us all about boondocking.

It felt wonderful to be able to repay them with a magazine cover shot of their trailer.  And hopefully this website can be our ‘hot bag of popcorn’ for all RVers that are just getting started…