A Craftsman’s Dream Fulfilled: BitterSweet Guitars in the Bitterroot, MT

Posted on August 23, 2012 by Roads Less Traveled

Big Creek Coffee Roasters

Mid-July – After enjoying some ranching and quilting fun in Montana’s Bitterroot Valley, we strolled the cute town of Hamilton where there is a high-end, ambiance-rich, specialty coffee bistro on every corner. Our kind of town! Wandering down one street, Mark noticed a guitar shop, and just had to stop in. We got chatting with Cody, the young owner who, together with his wife Nichole, has taught guitar since they were in their early twenties and had recently purchased the store, Mountain Music Learning Center.

Mountain Music Center

The wall was lined with Taylor and Takamine acoustic guitars, both of which Mark has owned and liked. But tucked in among them were another brand, BitterSweet Guitars. “I make those,” a voice said behind me. Our eyes popped open as we turned to see a friendly looking fellow with a mustache. Really? Hand-made guitars and the builder right here on a stool at the counter?? His name was Ken Rumbaugh, and it turned out his workshop was just outside of town.

Cody & Ken strum a bit

He took a guitar down off the wall, strummed a few chords, and then began jamming with store owner Cody. What fun! Next thing we knew, Ken was inviting us to come see his workshop. What an opportunity!! A few hours later our buggy rattled down some narrow lanes as we followed Ken’s directions. The pretty Bitterroot mountains made a picturesque backdrop in the distance across farm fields.

Ken shows off his sign

Then there it was, the ten foot tall playable guitar Ken had built as BitterSweet Guitar’s sign. Hopping out of the truck, the first thing we noticed after the enormous guitar was a cool ancient truck parked out back and a nosy sheep that stuck his head through the fence to have a look at us. As Ken led us into the workshop we passed a large bank of Outback solar charge controllers. The shop was powered primarily by solar power!

But like all of us who live with solar power, there were limits. Our fifth wheel’s 490 watts gives us everything we need in the buggy except air conditioning. Ken’s 5,000 watts in his workshop gives him everything he needs but his big air compressor… This was the second commercial building we had seen using banks of Outback controllers (the first was the NOLS school in the Sea of Cortez).

Classic!

Peek-a-boo!

BitterSweet Guitar Factory

The BitterSweet Guitar workshop was filled with a wonderful array of sweet smelling wood and sawdust, impressive power tools, and instruments in various stages of completion and repair. Along with building guitars, Ken repairs stringed instruments of all kinds.

“Tater Bug” Mandolin

Throughout our tour he kept returning to a lovely “tater bug” mandolin, whose neck was in clamps, to check on it, as it needed to move on to its next phase of repair once the glue had been at a certain temperature for four hours.

Beautiful curvy side panel

Ken walked us through every step of building a guitar, from selecting and shaping the wood for the sides to creating the neck and headstock to attaching the front and back. Who knew that every guitar’s front panel is rounded as if it were part of the skin of a 32′ diameter ball?

BitterSweet Guitar Headstock

He showed us a BitterSweet Guitar headstock inlaid with beautiful, iridescent, abalone pieces in the shape of a flower. Each guitar was crafted with carefully matched wood patterns, and he spoke warmly of his customers who each come to him with very particular requests for their instruments.

Building guitars at BitterSweet Guitar, Hamilton, MT

Fitting a side panel into the jig

Guitars emerging from this shop are works of art.

Ken learned his craft as a young man, hanging around the Martin factory that was near his home in New Jersey. The workers were happy to share tips with him, and he dumpster dove behind the factory to pick up and study their cast off necks, bridges and headstocks. Having sold his cabinet-making business after many years, he now builds guitars as a fun retirement job. What a satisfying skill to have.

Ride ’em Cowboy!

A few days later we met up with Ken once again at the Hamilton Farmer’s Market. This is a lively summer Saturday morning event, and Ken, along with his bandmates, made wonderful music on the green in front of the county courthouse where there is a marvelous wooden statue of a rodeo bronco.

We hung around the Bitterroot Valley area a while longer, and returned to the Mountain Music Learning Center guitar shop briefly so Mark could learn the opening strains of a song shop-owner Cody had played so easily when we were first there (White Lion’s “When the Children Cry”). And eventually we moseyed down to the small town of Darby, MT, where we found a unique library and ended up behind bars.

Music at the Hamilton Farmer's Market in Montana

Music at the Farmer’s Market

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Bitterroot Valley, MT – Traditional Roots in the Modern Age

Posted on August 21, 2012 by Roads Less Traveled

Barns add color to the scenery.

Mid-July, 2012 – When we left Mesa Falls, Idaho, and its glistening rainbow behind, we crossed into Montana to visit friends in the Bitterroot Valley. This is a valley rich with the spirit of another time and place, where ranching still plays an important role. Yet at the same time we heard rumors that some of the most astronomically rich, like the founder of Intel, own mammoth estates in the hillsides, giving the area a certain mystique.

Christmas in July!

Our life on the road is far from grandiose. In fact we have a hard time buying any kind of mail order goods, as not all things can be shipped to “General Delivery” at some post office somewhere. Knowing we were headed to a real address, we went a little crazy mail ordering things we had wanted for ages. Our friends Bob & Donna Lea very kindly became good buddies with the UPS and FedEx delivery people who brought a year’s worth of our shopping to their doorstep. Donna Lea put bows on all the boxes and we celebrated a very fun “Christmas in July.”

Cole and Bob get ready for work.

Their neighbor Carl is a rancher, and he invited us to come over to his ranch to watch a small “cattle drive” as he and his ranch hands moved the herd from munching on grass in one field to dining on another. I had gotten caught up with computer work and missed the fun, but Mark enjoyed a fabulous morning among horse hooves and snorting cows as the ranchers rounded them all up.

The cows are about to be moved. Do they know?

Cattle roundup

Ranchers on horseback in the Bitterroot Valley, Montana

Cole, Bob, Jack & Carl pose for pics!

These cows are well loved and are more obedient than most, I imagine, and in no time the two dogs and four mounted ranchers had persuaded the stomping and mooing group to move on to greener pastures.

Carl, our ranch host.

In these parts there is often a trade that goes on between ranching and non-ranching landowners. There’s a lot of value in having a herd of cows take care of your mowing, especially if you’ve got a lot of acres to mow. At the same time, the cost of feeding a large group of very large animals can be a bit steep. So just about the time that a herd of cows needs fresh greens — and just about the time that a non-rancher’s land is beginning to look a little overgrown — the two neighbors get together, shake hands on the trade, and the herd is moved.

Computer driven sewing machine!

This is also an area where traditional crafts are treasured, and one morning I joined Donna Lea and her daughter Diana on a trip to the local quilting show. I love handcrafts, needlework and all things to do with fabric, thread and yarn, so this was a real treat for me. What a surprise it was to discover that quilting has gone high tech. The sewing machines were incredible: huge and computer driven with electronic displays where you can select stitches and sizes and everything else. The fabrics are out of this world as well with photographic quality images of everything from animals to mountains printed in all sorts of hues. The days of hand stitched geometric designs made of calico patterns are long gone.

The old way…

Fortunately the roots of needlework are still valued, and a woman sat at a spinning wheel in the center of the room explaining the old fashioned techniques to an audience of young kids that buzzed around her.

Modern quilt designs are beautiful.

Best of all, though, was the exhibition of quilts hanging in rows along one end of the hall. There were historic quilts with notes saying this like, “This quilt was owned by great-aunt Betty in 1927,” and there were traditional quilts made in the old style. But my favorites were the modern ones that have unusual designs and motifs you would never expect in a hand-made quilt.

The Bitterroot Valley charmed us for two weeks, and we soon discovered more fine craftsmanship in the town of Hamilton, Montana at BitterSweet Guitars.

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Mesa Falls Scenic Byway, ID – Pretty Waterfalls

Posted on July 25, 2012 by Roads Less Traveled

The Tetons!

Mid-July, 2012 – We left the corner of Wyoming near Afton and journeyed north into Idaho. We were doing our route planning to take in as many official “scenic byways” as possible, so now we followed Idaho’s Teton Scenic Byway.

We had been to Grand Teton National Park at the beginning of our travels in 2007 and had been awe-struck by the jagged beauty and majesty of the mountain peaks. The national park is on the eastern side of the mountains in Wyoming, and its roads wind right along the base of the mountains.

The Teton Scenic Byway in Idaho is on the western side and the road is much further distant from the mountains, running right through the rich valley farmlands. The views were lovely, but unfortunately the sky and lighting didn’t cooperate with us on that particular day, and the smoke from nearby wildfires made the mountains hazy at best.

Spuds!

But a real highlight was to drive through fields and fields of perfectly spaced, rolling rows of green plants. “What do you think that is?” I asked Mark. “Hmmm….” He mused. “This is Idaho… which is spud country… Idaho potatoes maybe??” Yup! We soon saw a sign saying that this was “seed potato” country. It explained that many farmers in the area are third and fourth generation seed potato farmers and that after storing the potatoes through the winter in cool cellars many are cut into 2″ cubes in the spring to create the next season’s crop.

Upper Mesa Falls

Where the Teton Scenic Byway leaves off the Mesa Falls Scenic Byway begins, and we made the turn onto that road. Two beautiful waterfalls give this scenic byway its name. The Lower Falls is very pretty, but the Upper Falls is a stunner. We were glad to have our National Park Pass because these falls are one of those “federal lands” area with an entrance fee that is covered by the pass.

Waterfall Mist

The afternoon light lit up the mist that foamed off of the falls, and we wandered up and down the enormous walkways and stairways that cascade along the edge of the falls for tourists.

As we were leaving we noticed three fellows carrying kayaks up the stairs. It turned out they were had just kayaked 8 miles down the river, and apparently that stretch of river is excellent white water and rapids. Fortunately they had stopped short of the falls!! Mark wanted to get a picture of me with them — and when one of them playfully put his arm around me for the shot I discovered he was sopping wet from head to toe! That got me laughing.

Crazy wet kayakers!

The Upper Falls are known for the rainbow that forms in the mist in the mornings, and we set the alarm to make sure we caught the rainbow at its peak according to what a ranger told us. Out of laziness we hadn’t changed the clocks in the trailer since leaving Arizona two months earlier, but we we knew we were off by an hour. Well, we were off by an hour the other way! So we got to the falls in the freezing cold semi-darkness and were just about frozen to the bone by the time the little rainbow finally made its first showing.

The falls create a rainbow each morning.

The Upper Falls is also home to the Big Falls Inn, a cool old log cabin built in 1915 by Snake River Electric Light & Power Co. as an office/residence for workers.

Big Falls Inn – from the Power Company!

Over the years it has been used in many ways — as a way station for travelers on Yellowstone Highway,

Baby robins

as a dance hall, and as a corporate retreat. In 1986 the Forest Service acquired it through a land exchange.

We had simpler accommodations in our buggy nearby, but outside our window a little robin’s nest was full of open-mouthed chicks!

Continuing our journey north, our road wandered out of Idaho and into the Bitteroot Valley of Montana.

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Afton, Wyoming – Cowgirl Town!

Posted on July 20, 2012 by Roads Less Traveled

Early July, 2012 – After spending the 4th of July beachside at Bear Lake, Utah, amid jet skis and sailboats, we rolled north. The scenery changed gradually and no longer had that aura of waterplay and vacation. Old barns and big hay fields began to dominate the landscape.

We pulled into Afton, Wyoming, and had to stop. It’s not always easy to find a place to park a big long rig, but this town made it very clear exactly where the public parking was: a wooden cowgirl stood high up on a lamppost with a gun pointing the way. Of course, we found it easier just to park along the side of the road than to try to squeeze into a lot!

This is cowboy country, ranching country, and hunting country for sure. Elk shed their antlers every year, and there is such an overabundance of antlers lying around these parts that the locals get very creative finding ways to use them.

An arch made entirely of elk antlers crosses the main street with a sign on it saying, “Afton, Wyoming.” Above it two elk are butting heads.

We ventured a little further north to find an overnight spot in tiny Alpine, Wyoming, where a wonderful sunset turned the mountains brilliant colors before fading.

We woke in the morning to find a truck full of cattle had pulled in next to us overnight.

The constant stomping and peeing of those cows made quite a racket, but it was the driver’s awesome handlebar mustache and hook where his hand had once been that got us grinning.

The small towns along this route were all very cute. Alpine sits at the base of Palisades Lake, and as we drove along its eastern shore the next morning we discovered there is tons of wonderful boondocking along that shore.

We stopped in one pullout to get some photos but kept on rolling, vowing to come back some day to check out the lakeside camping options.

We were now flirting with the Wyoming and Idaho borders and decided to check out two more officially scenic drives: Idaho’s Teton Scenic Byway and Mesa Falls Scenic Byway.

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Bear Lake, UT – The Caribbean of the Rockies

Posted on July 15, 2012 by Roads Less Traveled

Thistle at Sunset

Utah has happy barns!

Early July, 2012 – From the alpine forests of Utah’s Mirror Lake Scenic Byway we crossed the bottom corner of Wyoming and then emerged back in Utah at spectacular Bear Lake.

There’s something about Utah that always puts smiles on our faces. And we aren’t alone. Even the barns there are smiling.

The Caribbean of the Rockies

Bear Lake lake is known as The Caribbean of the Rockies, and its vivid turquoise color is why. As we looked out across the water at the jet skis and colorful catamarans flying past we had to wonder, is this Utah or are we back in Mexico in the Sea of Cortez again?

There is a campground at the south end of the lake with lots of sites that back up to the water. It was fourth of July weekend and the place was packed. Everywhere we looked we saw barbecues, boats on trailers, fishing gear, happy dads drinking beer, and kids running around in bathing suits. From early morning, it seemed, the air was filled with the delicious aroma of grilling steaks.

Bear Lake Sunset

One morning we took our bikes along the lake’s shore and discovered the coolest little trailer park. It had been built long before the other bigger waterfront mansions began to take over along other parts of the shore, but it had been built in the most choice location. Sitting high on a bluff, these tiny old single-wides had the best views of the lake.

Moonrise over Bear Lake

Just 600 square feet or so inside, each one had a fantastic, sprawling deck that looked out over the lake, and it was clear from the elaborate patio setups that these folks spent summers outside on the deck!

We were at Bear Lake during the full moon, and it rose over the opposite shore each night, leaving a brilliant trail on the water.

We had been here once before, climbing over Logan Pass from the Salt Lake City area to arrive at the western side of the lake. This time we hung out at the south end. It was only as we were leaving that we realized what a big lake this really is – probably 50 miles around the shoreline.

Continuing north along the border of Utah and Wyoming, our next stop was Afton, Wyoming.

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Mirror Lake Scenic Byway Utah – Fishing and Fun!

Posted on July 8, 2012 by Roads Less Traveled

Early July, 2012 – After exploring the pretty Provo Canyon and Alpine Loop Scenic Byways we set our sights on another one of Utah’s beautiful drives, the Mirror Lake Scenic Byway.

This road climbs into the mountains on the way out of northern Utah, pausing at a spectacular summit
before plunging into southern Wyoming.

As it winds through the peaks it takes several sweeping curves between the many alpine lakes.

We parked the buggy in a nice secluded spot in the woods and soon discovered that the sound of rushing water we heard was a huge waterfall that was just a little ways down a narrow trail from the rig. What a find! Wildflowers were growing along the water’s edge, and we spent many happy hours among them, marveling at the endless flow of crashing water.

During our stay we hiked to several of the lakes in the area, finding each a little different and pretty in its own way. The Byway’s namesake Mirror Lake was a hubbub of activity on the Sunday afternoon we visited.

Fishermen lined the banks and kids played on the shore. The water was filled with floating craft of all kinds, from kayaks to inflatable boats, and despite the many people on the trails and in the water there was a serenity to this lake that was infinitely appealing.

We enjoyed a few blissful days in these alpine lakes and then made our way off the mountain to Evanston, Wyoming.

Criss-crossing the Utah and Wyoming state borders in this area, we continued north towards Utah’s beautiful Bear Lake. The nickname for this lake is “The Caribbean of the Rockies” and we soon knew why.

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Tag Archives: WP Travel

A Craftsman’s Dream Fulfilled: BitterSweet Guitars in the Bitterroot, MT

Bitterroot Valley, MT – Traditional Roots in the Modern Age

Mesa Falls Scenic Byway, ID – Pretty Waterfalls

Afton, Wyoming – Cowgirl Town!

Bear Lake, UT – The Caribbean of the Rockies

Mirror Lake Scenic Byway Utah – Fishing and Fun!