Death Valley, CA – An Exotic Landscape

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Death Valley, California

November 7-19, 2007 - After leaving Valley of Fire, we spent some time near Las Vegas visiting friends, staying at Boulder Beach

on Lake Mead.  The lake was 85 feet low when we visited in 2004, and now, three years later, was 105 feet low.  A campground

and boat launch had closed a few months earlier because they were now nowhere near the lake anymore, and we heard that the

turbines in the dam would soon be above the water level.  Scary stuff.  At least Lake Mead still had her pretty colors in the

sunshine.

We hiked along the rails-to-trails path that

goes from Boulder Beach on Lake Mead to

Hoover Dam.  It passes through some old

train tunnels and comes right out at the

visitors center for the Dam.  There is a

wonderful statue commemorating the

daring and hard physical labor it took to

blast the rock and pour the concrete to

build the dam.

From Las Vegas we made our way to

Death Valley.  We arrived on Veterans Day

and found the road through the park

lined with flag waving veterens

celebrating the days of the 49ers, the

intrepid souls who traversed Death

Valley in pursuit of gold in 1849.  The

campground was full, so we were

guided back up the mountain to an

open boondocking area by the side

of the road.

This was our first introduction to true boondocking -- where you set up camp

on public land and stay a while.  There were many other rigs in the area, and

as we got to know our neighbors we discovered they were part of the

Escapees Boondockers club and were gathered there for a few days.

Eventually most of the Escapees left, but we stayed with another rig

and enjoyed long lazy days and silent nights.

It felt so good to relax after our whirlwind tour of the northwest.  We

stayed almost two weeks, making music with our neighbors and

exploring the area.

Death Valley is the hottest place in the country on many summer

days, but in November the weather was perfect.

We learned that the 49ers took two routes to the gold mines in

northern California.  One group went around Death Valley, but the

other group trudged through the middle of it.  They barely survived.

Borax is mined in Death Valley and has been since the late

1800's.  It was hauled out by mule team, and to this day Borax

has an image of the mule team on the container.

We took the Artist's Drive which is

a thin ribbon of road that winds

among brightly colored hills.  The

light danced on across the cliffs.

Back at the visitors center we

found the perfect gift for a young

child.  If only we could all be

children for a little while once

again.

From Death Valley we wandered east and

south through Laughlin, Nevada and then

down along the Colorado River to Lake Havasu,

Arizona and finally settled in Quartzsite, Arizona.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Zion NP, Kodachrome Basin & Snow Canyon, UT – Great Red Rocks!

Chukar at Kodachrome State Park, Utah Kodachrome State Park, Utah Ballerina Leg at Kodachrome State Park, Utah

Ballerina Leg

Chukar at Kodachrome State Park, Utah Soft sandstone at Kodachrome State Park, Utah Zion National Park, Utah Zion National Park, Utah Zion National Park, Utah Zion National Park, Utah Zion National Park, Utah Zion National Park, Utah Zion National Park, Utah Zion National Park, Utah Zion National Park, Utah Snow Canyon State Park, St. George Utah

Snow Canyon

Snow Canyon State Park, St. George Utah

Snow Canyon

Zion NP, Kodachrome, & Snow Canyon, UT

October 7-19, 2007 - From Goblin Valley we took the gorgeous scenic

byway along Route 12 through Torrey, Capitol Reef National Park, and

Escalante to Kodachrome Basin State Park.  Like all the Utah state park

campgrounds, this one was lovely.  There was a flock of chukars (birds

closely related to the quail) that

wandered about the grounds happily

taking food from my hand.

We hiked the Panorama Point View trail,

soaking in the immense redrock

formations.  Several had cute names,

including Ballerina Leg, which truly

looked like a ballerina's leg.

Sandstone is very soft, and we found

a huge sandstone rock that other visitors had

rubbed.  It was fun to put your hand in the handprint

in the rock and rub.  The rock would granulate into

sand beneath your fingertips.

From Kodachrome Basin we headed over

to Zion National Park.  Because we were

towing the trailer and we were 52 feet from

end to end, we opted to approach the park

from the west side rather than taking the

really cool twisting road in from the east.  So we didn't see the

amazing rock formations that flank the roads on the eastern side.

However, once we arrived at Zion we took an exquisite bike ride along

the bike path that leads into the park.  The road into the main canyon

is closed to motorized vehicles, and we thrilled to the mammoth cliffs

on either side of us as we rode deep into the canyon.

There was an organized bike

ride going through Zion a few

days after we did our bike

ride.  It would be fun to be

part of a large crowd of

cyclists taking over this pretty

road through the park, but we

enjoyed the solitude of riding

by ourselves beneath the

towering spires.  We had a

perfect day with warm

temperatures, clear blue

skies and lots of flowers in

bloom.

We were continuing to press on

southwards, barely staying ahead

of the winter weather behind us.  At

Snow Canyon State Park we found

another delightful campground

where we tucked ourselves right up

against the redrocks.  We rode our

bikes on the beautiful park road

and looped through some pretty

new masterplanned neighborhoods

on the outskirts of St. George.

At last it was time to leave

Utah.  We decided we would

return in the Spring of 2008,

as we had barely touched

upon the areas we wanted to

see.  In the meantime,

however, the cold was

forcing us out, and we drove

south to the outskirts of Las

Vegas, Nevada, where we

found the spectacular Valley

of Fire State Park.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Blog posts from our RV trips to Zion National Park:

Blog posts from the area near Zion National Park:

Blog posts from all our travels to National Parks and UNESCO World Heritage Sites in North America

More great RV camping destinations:

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Devil’s Tower, WY – Remember “Close Encounters of the Third Kind” ??

The Lakota called it "Bear's

Lodge"

Rock climbers scale the facets of Devils Tower.

Devils Tower, Wyoming

September 13, 2007 - Every since I saw the movie "Close Encounters

of the Third Kind" I was intrigued by Devils Tower, so when I saw it on

the map in Wyoming as we left the Tetons behind, I told Mark we had

to make the turn.  It is a beautiful drive to get there.  When the rock

showed up in the distance it was quite dramatic.

We learned that the Lakota Indians had a legend about the rock

involving a bear climbing the sides of the rock and Indians defending

the rock from its flat summit.  The bear's claws scraped the rock as he

climbed, making the striped indentations that are there today.  They

called it "Bear's Lodge."

An early American fellow named

Dodge had visited the area and seen

the rock from 20 miles off.  He

apparently mistranslated the Lakota

name for the rock and thought it was

called "Bad Spirit," which is how it

came to be named "Devils Tower."

I was intrigued that Devils Tower in Wyoming looks a lot like Devils

Postpile in California.  But I learned that Devils Postpile heaved

upwards, while Devils Tower got its shape from erosion, and

Devils Postpile consists of basalt while Devils Tower is granite.

One of the greatest charms of this national

monument is the community of prairie dogs

that lives in the fields at the base of the rock.

They bark and play and scamper around to

the total enjoyment of all the tourists.  There

are little entrance holes to their lairs

everywhere.  They were constantly popping

up out of their holes to look around and then

diving back down again.

We had a glorious day

visiting Devils Tower.

We didn't see any

extra-terrestrials but

were enchanted by

the adorable prairie

dogs and the unique

and real stories behind Devils Tower.  Leaving this unique

granite formation behind, we wandered east and south into the

Black Hills of South Dakota.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Grand Teton National Park, Wyoming – Stunning!

Grand Tetons

Grand Tetons

The Tetons stand watch over Lake Jackson

The mountains seem to rise up out of the lake.

Pronghorn antelope.

Lake Jackson.

Jenny Lake reflects the mountains in her depths.

Grand Teton National Park, WY

September 10-12, 2007 - We drove from Yellowstone south to

Grand Teton National Park.  We were there on magically beautiful

days.  The sky was bright and clear and everywhere we turned

was like a picture postcard.  Apparently the mountains are often

obscured by clouds, so we felt fortunate to see them on days that

were crystal clear.

We drove the Scenic Loop

through the park, and on

our way back we saw a

pronghorn antelope peering

at us through the grass.

Just after we got his picture

he bounded away.

We were starting to feel the press of the coming cold weather, and

we still had a lot we wanted to see before we headed south, so we

made our way eastwards in Wyoming to Devils Tower National

Monument.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Our most recent posts:

Other blog posts from our RV travels to Grand Teton National park:

Yellowstone National Park, WY – Bubbling Geysers

Algae-filled crystal clear stream.

Professional photographers

come here too!

Old Faithful teases us.

The crowds gather.

There she goes...!

Oh.. oh.. look...

Yellowstone National Park - Mammoth Hot Springs

September 6-10, 2007 -- We drove into the main north entrance to

Yellowstone National Park and arrived at Mammoth Hot Springs.  I

had never thought about how Yellowstone got its name, but when I

saw the colorful mineral deposits surrounding me it was obvious.

Steam billowed into the air from the hot springs and the smell of

sulphur wafted over us in waves.  The minerals solidify into

stairstep formations and drippy solid lumps.

There is a mystical quality to this area.  The water looks passive

and serene, but the mist and steam drifting above the surface

belie something more sinister brewing below.

I saw a fast flowing stream

filled with bright green plant

life.  it was crystal clear and

looked like it must be ice

cold.  Without even

thinking I put my hand in

the water - and yanked it

right out!  The water was

hot hot hot!

There are mazes of

boardwalks throughout

Mammoth Hot Springs,

some passing old defunct

springs and others skirting

pools of steaming mineral

water.  The minerals harden

into all kinds of shapes, from

elaborate staircases to very

tall pinnacles.  Some of the

springs bubble under vast

lakes punctuated by dead

trees.  Up close the

minerals are a kaleidescope

of colors.

In some areas the minerals harden in waves, like a frozen orange

ocean.  In other areas mini-waterfalls dribble minerals over an edge.

At one lookout we found a professional photographer

using a huge format camera under a draped hood.  Our

quickie snapshots of anything and everything around us

seemed amateurish next to his deliberate methodology.

Other areas of the park feature

geysers as well as hot springs.

And no visit to Yellowstone is

complete without a spin past Old

Faithful.

It erupts every 90 minutes or so,

and with less promptness and

splendor than 50 years ago when

an earthquake shifted things below the surface.  The

crowds gather, however, and there were several

hundred people for our showing.  We were lucky and

got a big burst after the geyser teased us with a series

of smaller sprays.

After enjoying much of what Yellowstone has to offer -- but realizing we'll have to return several times to see it all --

we made our way south into Grand Tetons National Park, Wyoming.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Yellowstone National Park, WY – Big Game Animals

Herd of elk in front of the visitors center.

What a rack.  A local hunter standing nearby told us he was

at Yellowstone to size up his prey for when they migrate out

of the park into the legal hunting areas.

Morning flirtations

Buffalo use the roads for travel too.

Yellowstone National Park - Animals

September 6-10, 2007 - One of the most exciting

things in Yellowstone is seeing the big game

animals up close.  Our first morning in the park,

after driving down from Glacier NP, we took a short

hike from the campground to the visitors center.  As

we climbed up the hillside through the forest we

looked up -- and saw a buffalo on the ridge above

us.  I stopped dead in my tracks, remembering the

sign I'd seen at the campground, "More people are

gored by buffalo each year than are attacked by

bears."  Yikes.  There had been another sign

explaining what to do in case you encountered a buffalo or bear in the park.  I wracked my brain trying to remember the

instructions, as each animal required something different.  Do you make noise, or not?  Back up slowly or run for your life?  Be

aggressive or passive?  The buffalo snorted at us.  Mark reached for his camera but I was frozen to the spot.  Suddenly the

mammoth, ungainly beast leaped away.  He moved across the impossibly steep and rocky terrain with the grace and agility of a

dancer.  In an instant he was gone.  We gaped at each other, wide-eyed.  What a way to be welcomed to Yellowstone National

Park.

When we arrived at the visitors center we found it was occupied by

a herd of elk.  It was elk mating season and they like to congregate

at the visitors center.  They wandered up and down the grassy

areas as if they owned the place while the rangers waved the cars

through and tried to control the exuberant park visitors.

A huge male was seated motionless in the middle of the grass

with his harem of females surrounding him at a distance.  He

barely moved a muscle as he sat in the sun.  We watched him,

willing him to turn to face us.  He wouldn't move, despite the

crowd of onlookers snapping his photo.  Almost imperceptably he

moved his head slightly.  This seemed an indication that he might

stand up and the rangers leapt into action, waving everyone

away from the grass to give the big guy room.  "These are wild

animals," they explained to us.  "They are unpredictable."  That proved true, as the enormous elk must have decided he didn't

need to stand up afterall, and he stayed seated in the sun for another few hours.

One morning we woke up to see a young buck elk flirting with a

young female right outside our trailer window.  We grabbed the

cameras and started shooting right through the window.  They

touched noses and then reared up on their hind feet, pawing at

each other.

They did this for about 10 minutes, pausing to nibble the bushes

every now and then between flirtations.  When the young male

leaned over to munch on a leaf we could see that his antlers were

soft and fuzzy.

Out on the park roads it

was common to see elk

and bison roaming

around.  The animals

use the park roads in the

winter because it is

easier to walk through

the snow there.  So they

do own the roads

afterall, and they

continue walking along

them in the summertime

too.  After a while we got

used to seeing the huge

buffalos.  They didn't get

any prettier, but from the

safety of the car they

seemed a little less

intimidating.

The tamed wild animals

are just one of the many

marvels at Yellowstone.

We were intrigued by the

steaming and gurgling of

the hot springs and

geysers as well.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Glacier National Park, MT – Mountain Goats and Lake Views

Glacier National Park

The air was still hazy.

Glacier National Park

Glacier National Park was engulfed in smoke from wildfires

just days before our arrival.

Red limo tours at Glacier National Park

The best way to see it is to let someone else do the driving.

It is a spectacular drive up and over the mountain range.

Logan Pass boardwalk at Glacier National Park

Boardwalk hike at Logan Pass.

Hidden Lake at the summit of Logan Pass in Glacier National Park

Hidden Lake at the top of Logan Pass

Hidden Lake at the summit of Logan Pass in Glacier National Park

Logan Pass summit views.

Hidden Lake at the summit of Logan Pass in Glacier National Park

A glorious day.

Logan Pass Glacier National Park

A helicopter and pilot stand by as medics attend to an

unfortunate tourist.

Once the unfortunate tourist is onboard, with all eyes from

the visitors center watching, the helicopter rises up and

disappears beyond the mountains.

Mountain goats at Logan Pass in Glacier National Park, Montana

A mountain goat lazes about at the summit of

Logan Pass.

Mountain goats at Logan Pass in Glacier National Park, Montana

National Park animals seem fearless of humans.

Mountain goats at Logan Pass in Glacier National Park, Montana

She kept her baby close by.

A "stressed" forest lined the slopes of one hillside.

Glacier National Park, Montana

September 3-5, 2007 - Traveling east from northern Idaho, we visited Glacier National Park in

northern Montana.  There had been terrible wildfires for most of the summer.  Rangers told us

that two weeks before we arrived you couldn't see any views in the park.  Luckily the smoke had

cleared somewhat by the time we got there, but the air was still very hazy.  We drove from the

west side of the park up to Logan Pass and back down again.

At Logan Pass there is a beautiful

3 mile round trip walk that you

can take to the summit.  Some of

it is on a boardwalk that stairsteps

up the hillside and some is a

gravel path.  At the summit there

is a gorgeous view of Hidden

Lake.

Before we embarked on our little hike we saw a lot of commotion

in the visitors center.  A tourist had a medical problem.  We

ventured on with our hike but stopped midway up to watch a

helicopter fly in, pick up the hapless visitor, and fly him off to the

hospital.

At the summit we watched a mountain goat and her baby munching

the grass.  They wandered in and about the many tourists,

unperturbed by our presence.

Making our way back down the

mountain road to West Glacier we

spent some time enjoying our luxury

accommodations at the West

Glacier KOA.  The hot tub and

swimming pool were just what the

doctor ordered to relax and

ponder the beauties of all we had

seen.  Once our internal batteries

were recharged a bit we took to

the road again and followed the

very scenic south and east

through Montana towards

Yellowstone National Park.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Yosemite National Park, CA – Sheer Beauty

Our truck struggles pulling our RV over Tioga Pass outside Yosemite CA California

The buggy stopped for a photo shoot on Tioga Pass

Our truck struggles pulling our RV over Tioga Pass outside Yosemite CA California

Pretty great scenery!

Lots of tunnels challenge RVs entering Yosemite Valley

There are lots of marvelous tunnels bored into the

mountains on the road in to Yosemite Valley

Yosemite Valley CA California

Yosemite Valley -- towering rock cliffs and tourists.

Bike paths and bike trails in Yosemite National Park CA California

One small stretch of the path was spectacular

Fulltime RV lifestyle at Yosemite Valley CA California

Yosemite Valley

Fulltime RV lifestyle at Yosemite Falls CA California

Yosemite Falls

Fulltime RV lifestyle at aTuomone Meadows near Yosemite Valley CA California

On the road down to the Valley from Tuolomne Meadows

Fulltime RV living near crystal clear streams in Tuomomne Meadows near Yosemite Valley CA California

Crystal clear streams in the Tuolomne

Meadows area

Fulltime RV living at Dog Lake near Tuomomne Meadows in Yosemite National Park CA California

Dog Lake in the Tuolomne Meadows area

Fulltime RV living at Dog Lake near Tuomomne Meadows in Yosemite National Park CA California

Peace

Fulltime RV living and fly-fishing near Tuomomne Meadows in Yosemite National Park CA California

Fly fishing

Giant Sequoia in Yosemite National Park CA California

Giant Sequoia

Giant Sequoia in Yosemite National Park CA California.  Small cars can drive through but an RV won't fit.

It's possible to drive through these trees

Bike paths and bike trails in Yosemite National Park CA California

Towering cliffs form a backdrop to every scene

Bridal Veil Falls in Yosemite National Park CA California great place to RV

Bridal Veil Falls.

Bear sighting near Crane Flat in Yosemite National Park CA California

A bear was munching not far from the bridge near

Crane Flat

Bear sighting near Crane Flat in Yosemite National Park CA California

She wasn't concerned about the crowd of

onlookers

Yosemite National Park, CA

June 19-24, 2007 - We drove from Mammoth Lakes, California to

Yosemite National Park, entering the park from the east side.  The

Toyota Tundra struggled up and over Tioga Pass pulling our 7,300 lb.

trailer.  We maxed our speed at 28 mph and barely got going again

after stopping to take these pictures.

We camped for a while at Tuolomne Meadows Campground at the

east end of the park.  This area is filled with crystal clear streams

and ponds and has wonderful shear rock mountains.

We stayed up in the Tuolomne area for a few days and then took

the rig down to the campground at Crane Flat which sits at a

lower elevation just 12 miles from Yosemite Valley.  This made it

easier for us to get in and out of the valley to see the sites.  There

was only one campsite in the campground that would fit our rig,

and we barely got around the loop without scraping the trailer on

a tree.  However, once we got situated it was a beautiful spot.

Yosemite Valley has a

small system of bike

paths and we happily

rode our bikes on those

paths past the major

sights.

There are several

beautiful waterfalls.

Yosemite Falls is very

high and narrow.

Bridal Veil Falls is

misty and the veil

shifts with the wind

like a bride's chiffon

veil.

We took a hike to see the

giant sequoias.  There

aren't too many, but the

few that we saw are

massive.  Years ago, to

attract tourists, a tunnel

was carved through a

massive dead trunk, big

enough to drive a car

through.  Word spread far

and wide about this tree

you could drive your car

through, and toursts came

to Yosemite to see it.

Late one afternoon as we returned

to our campsite at Crane Flat we

saw a crowd on a bridge looking into

a meadow.  They were watching a

bear munching on greenery.  We

joined the throng to get some

pictures and watch this happy bear.

We were told it was a mother bear

and the cub was just out of sight.

She had no concerns about being

the center of attention for a very

large audience.

After enjoying all the beauty in

Yosemite for a few days we

continued our journeys west to the

northern California coast.