Peggy’s Cove Lighthouse, Nova Scotia – Reflections At Sunset!

June 2015 – After a heavenly few weeks in Downeast Maine, including a daytrip to Campobello Island in Canada, we crossed the border into Canada “for real” at the small town of Calais, Maine. The province of New Brunswick is very large, and it took us a while to decide whether to dash through it to Nova Scotia or to take our time.

The huge tides and seascapes of the Bay of Fundy beckoned, but in the end we decided to hightail it to Nova Scotia, a place we had both wanted to visit for many many years.

Welcome to Nova Scotia

We’re here!

The island of Nova Scotia is a large province too, extending some 300 miles from end to end. We had had visions of encircling the circumferance of the island very slowly, and started out doing just that along the northern shore.

The farmlands and low lying, flat lands of that coast were pretty, but we we had quaint fishing villages and craggy rocks and lighthouses on our minds more-so than farms, so we quickly changed gears and made a dash for the southern coast. We landed at Peggy’s Cove, which is about as quaint and cute a fishing village as there can possibly be.

Boats and homes Peggy's Cove Nova Scotia

The small community of Peggy’s Cove, Nova Scotia.

This is a tiny hamlet of just a few buildings surrounding a very small harbor that contains a handful of boats. As we walked along the docks, the fishing boats seemed to hover on glassy water.

Harbor at Peggy's Cove Nova Scotia

A picturesque scene at Peggy’s Cove

Each building was lovingly maintained to utterly quaint perfection, including the little coffee shop that looked out on the small cove.

Coffee Shop at Peggy's Cove Nova Scotia

I love a cute coffee shop!

Lobster traps were positioned along the wharf, and an old deteriorating dory made a wonderful photo op with a red lobster boat in the background.

Lobster pots Peggy's Cove Nova Scotia

Lobster pots

Old dory and fishing boat Peggy's Cove Nova Scotia

There were ideal photo ops in every direction.

This is an artist’s haven, and a few steps up a hill we came across an artist recreating the picture perfect harbor scene on his canvas. We joined a small throng of people taking photos of him!

Artist painting Peggy's Cove Nova Scotia

What a lovely spot to set up an easel and let your creative juices flow!

Just a few steps further on we found another artist, and the throng joined us to photograph her too!

Artist painting Peggy's Cove Nova Scotia Canada

The artists — and everyone else — were loving the charming scenery and landscapes.

This is an idyllic little seaside village that is a photographer’s or artist’s true delight. In some ways it was almost a little too perfect, but we were loving every minute of strolling the very short street that goes from the harbor to the lighthouse.

Before the lighthouse came into view, we could hear the mournful sound of a bagpipe in the distance. As we turned the corner, the lighthouse appeared and the bagpipe player was suddenly right before us. He was wearing a kilt and had an open donation box near his feet. Behind him a couple was taking a selfie of themselves with the lighthouse in the background.

Bagpipe at Peggy's Cove Nova Scotia

We heard the forlorn sounds of the bagpipe long before we spotted the player

We were enchanted by this sweet postcard of a village, if just a little put off by its so perfect perfection and the crowds of tourists arriving from the row of buses that were squeezed into the small parking area. But as the daytime turned to late afternoon, something truly magical happened.

The sky turned grey and black, and beneath the heavy clouds the sun suddenly put on a spectacular display at the lighthouse.

Peggy's Cove Lighthouse Nova Scotia

Peggy’s Cove Lighthouse becomes the centerpiece of a celestial light show.

Peggy’s Cove Lighthouse is one of the prettiest lighthouses in Nova Scotia — perhaps the prettiest — and to see it with such a stunning backdrop was a true gift.

Peggy's Cove Lighthouse at Sunset Nova Scotia Canada

The sun bursts through the clouds

As the sun set, groups of kids, couples and families all came out onto the rocks to watch it drop into the sea behind the lighthouse. And what a show they had that night.

Sunset in Peggy's Cove Nova Scotia Canada

Lots of families and couples and kids sat on the rocks to enjoy the sunset.

Once the sun dipped below the horizon, the sky lit up in shades of peach and orange. Kids were playing all around, suddenly full of energy, and their silhouettes were delightful.

Sunset silhouettes Peggy's Cove Nova Scotia Canada

Weeeee!

The rocks around the lighthouse glowed orange, and the lighthouse began to flash a vivid red.

Peggy's Cove Lighthouse Nova Scotia Dusk

The light flashes in the last moments of daylight.

We were both in awe to be experiencing such a dramatic sunset in such a breathtaking location.

Sunset Peggy's Cove Lighthouse Nova Scotia

As the sky grew dark, we sat down on the edge of the rocks and looked out at the sea, holding each other in a long embrace. After all those years on a boat, neither of us will ever look at the sea in quite the same way again.

The chill of nightfall began to steal over us as the waves crashed on the rocks below, and the black, open ocean lay in front of us the way it had so many times before on our long overnight passages in Mexico.

Those days seemed like a lifetime ago, but suddenly the memories were just an arm’s length away.

“I can’t believe we were out there,” Mark said suddenly.

“I know — I can’t believe we did it either!” I added.

“I was terrified for four years,” he confessed.

We stood up to go and suddenly noticed some tidepools behind us creating beautiful mirror images of the lighthouse in the water.

We stared out at the darkening sea, sharing a deep sense of awe. We were in awe of the scene, in awe of life, and in awe of having dreamed a dream, made it come true, and come out of it alive, unscathed, and forever changed.

Peggy's Cove Lighthouse reflections Nova Scotia

Reflections at Peggy’s Cove Lighthouse

Reflections at Peggy's Cove Lighthouse Nova Scotia

Lucky 7

What a precious and unique moment that was at Peggy’s Cove in Nova Scotia — a sunset we will never forget.

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Lubec & Campobello Island – Fantastic Lighthouses!

June 2015 – After a really happy visit to Acadia National Park, the nearby Schoodic Peninsula and the crazy mail boat daytrip out to the Cranberry Islands, we headed further downeast to the easternmost point in America: Lubec, Maine.

Mainers have a slightly different sense of direction than most, and “Downeast” in these parts actually means “Northeast.” If someone says they went “down” to someplace, it’s best to check a map before assuming they went south. In all likelihood, wherever they went “down to” is north of where they are standing now!

The reason for this is simple: the prevailing wind on the Maine coast blows out of the southwest and towards the northeast. So, sailors going “up” the Maine coast to the northeast sail “downwind” to get there!

Selfie at Lubec Maine

We’re waaaaay downeast!

This whole coast is strewn with craggy shores and quaint lighthouses to warn mariners about dangerous rocks, and we had gotten a kick out of seeing the Bass Harbor Head Lighthouse on Mt. Desert Island. But further downeast they get even better!

Lubec (“Loobeck”) is home to one of the most striking lighthouses in Maine: the West Quoddy Head Lighthouse. This candy-striped beauty is very accessible, and despite the overcast skies when we were there, we were not alone enjoying a picnic on one of the tables nearby.

West Quoddy Head Lighthouse Lubec Maine

A dad gets a pic of his wife and daughter at the West Quoddy Head Lighthouse

This fun lighthouse made me think of Pippi Longstocking!

West Quoddy Head Lighthouse Lubec Maine

West Quoddy Head Lighthouse

Nearby, the tiny village of Lubec has a cute main street with multi-colored buildings.

Storefronts in Lubec Maine

Lubec’s main street is very colorful

Like all towns on the coast in downeast Maine, lobstering is the way of life here, and lobstering motifs were everywhere, even on the side of a gift shop building.

Lubec Maine Gift Shop Building

When we walked up one street, we were surprised to see a most unusual motorhome. It was an Airstream 350LE. Airstream is best known for its travel trailers, but how cool it was to see one of their unique motorhomes out on the road!

Cool RV in Lubec Maine

Hey – it’s an Airstream motorhome!

Lubec faces a very pretty harbor, and the benches overlooking the bay can be very romantic!

Romance at Lubec Harbor Maine

Lubec is for Lovers

Across the thin strip of water on the other side of the harbor opposite Lubec is Campobello Island which has a lighthouse that shines back towards Lubec.

5th wheel RV at lighthouse Campobello Island New Brunswick

Campobello Island has a small lighthouse overlooking Lubec

Lighthouse at night in Lubec Harbor Maine

Campobello Island is actually in New Brunswick, Canada, and after admiring the small part of it we could see from Lubec, we decided to take a daytrip to the island. We got up early one morning, dashed down to the docks to see the boats in the early morning light for a moment, and then drove over the bridge that goes onto the island.

Lobster boats at dawn Lubec Maine

Downeast Maine at dawn.

You need a passport to cross into Canada, but other than that it is a super easy border crossing. We were the only ones at the bridge, and in no time we were driving in another country.

This was a wonderful little warmup for going into Canada “for real” a few days later when we would cross into the mainland part of New Brunswick at Calais, Maine. But for now, we were just daytripping. Even so, the first sign we saw made us do a double-take!

Stop sign in Canada

Ahem… we really are in a different country!

We admired Lubec across the water. It is such a sweet little town!

Town docks Lubec Maine

Lubec looks very pretty across the way

The ocean was like a lake in the early morning sun, and we watched the lobster boats out doing their rounds to all their traps.

Lobster boats Campobello Island New Brunswick Canada

Lobstering is a way of life on both sides of the border.

As we drove to the far end of the island, we marveled at the pristine forest and ultra clear water. We could see every detail of the seaweed waving under the surface.

Campobello Island New Brunswick Canada

The woods and water seemed virgin here.

We climbed down a steep path towards the water and I spotted a sea urchin shell in the grass. I don’t know how it got up there, but I put it on an evergreen tree branch between the pine cones. What a neat contrast — the woods meeting the sea.

Sea urchin on spruce tree branch Campobello Island

From the forest to the ocean

Campobello Island’s sister lighthouse to the West Quoddy Head Lighthouse in Lubec is the East Quoddy Head Lighthouse! It sits at the far north end of Campobello Island, and it is equally stunning.

East Quoddy Lighthouse Campobello Island New Brunswick Canada

Our first glimpse of East Quoddy Lighthouse

It peeked out at us from behind the trees at first, but we found a woodsy trail that goes out a ways on a small peninsula where we were able to see it in its full glory. Rather than being candy-striped, this lighthouse has a huge red cross on its front.

East Quoddy Head Lighthouse Campobello Island New Brunswick Canada

You can walk out to this lighthouse to see all its outbuildings up close for two hours before and after every low tide. The tides are immense here, however, and the water moves really quickly. So, you have to time your visit to the lighthouse very carefully!!

A sign near the trail that heads out to the lighthouse explained why:

Beach Sign

The tides are gargantuan here.
At low tide you can walk to the lighthouse — if you dare!

It would be another few hours before the tide’s window of opportunity opened up for us, so we contented ourselves with getting pics of this beautiful lighthouse from across the water. What a stunner!

East Quoddy Lighthouse Campobello Island New Brunswick Canada

East Quoddy Lighthouse — very regal!

This little one-day introduction to Canada’s east coast was a really great appetizer for us and got us in the mood to do some more exploring north of the border.

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Boquillas del Carmen – A daytrip to Mexico from Big Bend, Texas

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Victoria, BC – A Taste of the Old World

Roads Less Traveled

This charming city comes alive with colorful flowers

everywhere.

Parliament Building.

Victoria Harbor.

Historic Empress Hotel.

Parliament Building.

There are lots of places to stroll along the waterfront.

Victoria is a bustling town.

Entering China Town with the open-air bus tour.

Craigdarroch Castle, built by a coal magnate in 1890.

Penny Farthing Pub, Oak Bay

Street corner, Oak Bay

The coast outside of Victoria.

Dirving onto the ferry from Sidney, BC to Anacortes, WA. It

was a tight squeeze, but we fit in okay.

They packed us in like sardines.

Victoria, British Columbia, Canada

August 21-23, 2007 - We returned to Victoria from the upper reaches

of Vancouver Island and spent some time enjoying this very

European feeling city.  The harbor is dominated by the historic

Parliament Building and Empress Hotel, and there is always a lot of

activity along the waterfront by the marina.  We enjoyed the energy

and vitality of this city after the laid-back nature of the rest of the

island.

There was activity on every

corner.  Street musicians,

horses and buggies, open-air

and double-decker buses,

boats and seaplanes coming

and going -- there was action

everywhere.

Wait, what country am I in??  Feels like England !!

We took an open-air bus tour, a

great way to see the city.  The

tour took us out into the

outlying areas where we saw

Craigdarroch Castle, the

charming community of Oak

Bay and some exquisite areas

along the coast.

Feeling a little pressed by the impending end of summer, we

boarded the ferry once again in Sidney, BC and sailed through

the San Juan islands to Anacortes, Washington where we picked

up our road travels along the Northern Cascade mountains in

Washington.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Vancouver Island – Houseboats, Goats and Sheepdog Trials

Houses lining the docks in Cowichan Bay.

Houseboat in Cowichan Bay.

Each houseboat was unique and very cute.

Deep Bay

Deep Bay

Qualicum Beach

Coombs

Coombs

Coombs

Parksville

Parksville Beach

Ta da !!!

Look what I found.  Can I keep her?

Fire rings and picnic tables at Kitty Coleman.  This setting

provided many great campfire evenings with new friends.

Rigs lined up against the trees and facing the beach at Kitty

Coleman.

The view was always changing:  Alaska-bound cruise ships,

fishing boats and sailboats slipping by.

Vancouver Island, Canada

August 5-20, 2007 -- We boarded the ferry from Port Angeles,

Washington to Victoria, BC on Vancouver Island.  Driving onto the

ferry wasn't nearly as difficult as we anticipated, and once aboard

we were free to wander about the ferry.  Port Angeles vanished in

the fog behind us and a few hours later the sun came out just as we

approached Victoria.  Once in Victoria we took a quick look around

and then headed up the island to the Qualicum Beach area where

we spent several weeks.

Our sightseeing trips took us to some charming villages.  Cowhichan

Bay is a tiny coastal community with lots of houseboats and homes

lining the docks.  We wandered among the houseboats, intrigued by

people who live in floating houses.

Further north we visited Deep Bay, a pretty marina set against the

backdrop of the island's mountains.

Qualicum Beach is a

pretty place for strolling

and bench sitting.

We turned slightly inland

to visit the town of

Coombs, home of

several goats who live on a grass roof.  We

watched them casually munching away while

tourists walked below their roof overhang.

We also visited the World Parrot Refuge in this

area, but I was so entranced with the birds

(there were about 20 sulphur crested cockatoos

in one open warehouse sized enclosure) that I

forgot to take any photos.

Parksville Beach is one of

the bigger beaches in this

stretch of coast.  It is a bustling and commercial town, but the beach

entrance has one of the nicest floral displays we found on the island.

That's saying a lot, because Vancouver Island is loaded with

gorgeous flowers.

In the town of Comox we

caught an afternoon of

sheepdog trials.  The dogs

were amazingly well trained

and very fast.  Listening to

the handler's whistles, these

dogs would take off at a

sprint and then drop to the

ground, maneuvering a

group of four sheep around a

field and eventually (hopefully)

into a small pen.

One dog had a face-off with a

particularly cantankerous

sheep, but the dog eventually

won the argument with a

snap near the sheep's nose

and the sheep did as told.

One contestant actually got

all four sheep in the pen and

closed the gate within the

time limit.  It seemed like a

miracle to me.

We chanced upon a wonderful

campground near Comox:

Kitty Coleman Beach Park.

The rigs line up on one side of

a small road, backed up

against the woods.  Opposite

the rigs, lined up along the

rocky beach, is a row of

picnic tables and fire

rings.  From that

vantage point you can

watch the cruise ships

headed for Alaska going

by.  At night we

wandered from fire ring

to fire ring, chatting with

all the other campers.  It

was a great communal

feeling and we spent

many happy evenings

with new friends while

we were there.

From Comox and Campbell River we made our way back down the coast to Sidney and

Victoria where we spent a wonderful few days before leaving the island