Phoenix Parks – Saguaros and Sisters

Our saguaro friends say "hi."

Holding the moon close.

Wearing a halo.

An early Cardinal travel trailer.

1940's vintage

Another vintage Cardinal.

Saguaro holding pen.

First glimpse of Bartlett Lake.

These saguars have looked down this hillside for

more than a hundred years.

View of Bartlett Lake.

Pretty roads wind through the park.

From high on a ridge.

Cholla cactus catches the rays.

Lakeside Camping

Yellow Cliffs

Every saguaro has its own

personality.

Campground Full.

Not !!!!

Stray kitty says hello.

She'll be the new station cat for the

hot-shot firefighting crew.

Bartlett Dam.

North end of the lake.

Another great kayak ride.

A blue heron stalks the

shore.

The Bicycle Haus team takes a break in their 85 mile ride.

Dirt roads wander through the desert.

Hallelulia

Swoopy saguaro

Warm (prickly)

embrace.

After old age.

White Tanks & Bartlett Lake, Arizona

Early November, 2009 - We left Havasu Springs Resort ready for an exciting

change of pace:  White Tanks Regional Park on the west side of Phoenix.  This is a

pretty park and campground set smack in the middle of some of the nicest Sonoran Desert

there is.  We couldn't help but smile as the saguaro cactuses greeted us with arms held high.

The overall climate in central Arizona's Sonoran Desert

doesn't feel much different than the Mojave Desert of

Nevada, California and northwestern Arizona, but what a difference in vegetation.  It is lush

and vibrant, filled with unusual plant life, singing birds and hopping bunnies.

The central figure in this desert is the saguaro cactus, and they give the area its charm.  Each

one is unique, striking a pose with arms raised that suggests an almost reverent spirit.  These

precious and protected plants define the landscape, and as we drove into the park we felt like

we were coming home.

We woke up the next morning to find that one

section of the campground had been taken over

by a raft of tiny, ancient trailers.  Their owners, all

women, were gathered around a campfire,

and we learned that this was a rally of the

group "Sisters on the Fly."

Priscilla, one of the first members of the

group, invited me into her 1948 Pleasure

Craft trailer (unfortunately I never got a

photo).  The woodwork was beautiful,

but it was the antique refrigerator with

its heavy external latch that caught my

eye.  "That's what sold me on this

trailer," she said.  "That and this stove

here."  Both appliances were original,

and Priscilla was too.  What a great

gathering of ladies and buggies.

With their sporty air of independence,

laced with a touch of sass, these gals

seemed to have a great weekend

together.  I later checked out their

website, www.sistersonthefly.com, and thoroughly enjoyed their "Caravan Trailers"

link.  It is a gallery of photos of their members' fantastic vintage trailers, many featuring

wonderful and humorous paint jobs.  Started ten years by two sisters, the club has

grown to over 1000 members.  What fun.

We left White Tanks to spend a little time at Bartlett Lake.  On the

way out we passed the sad sight of what happens to saguaro

cactuses when developers do their thing.  In order to build a new

library, something that will enhance the human community

immensely, the lovely Sonoran Desert abutting the park must be

cleared.  In the process, the cholla cactus, mesquite, and creosote

bushes get mowed down without a thought.  The saguaros,

however, are protected and endangered, so they get moved to a

holding pen for later transplanting.  Seeing all these fun little

personalities standing in a jail cell, arms up, awaiting an unknown

fate, always makes my heart ache.  It happens all over central

Arizona all the time, but that doesn't make it any easier to witness.

It is unfortunate that the most lush and gorgeous of our American

deserts has also turned out to be such a popular place to live.  There are thousands of square miles of barren Mojave desert, but

the beautiful Sonoran desert that is unique to Arizona and northern Mexico has been systematically dismantled in Arizona for the

last century in order to make way for the urban sprawl of Phoenix and Tucson.  If only those cities had been founded in a place that

didn't lose its unique beauty when bulldozed.

The road to Bartlett Lake is one of the area's most scenic.  The

lake pops into view as you round a bend, and grows larger and

larger as you descend towards it.

Taking many bike rides along the roads that wind through this

part of the Tonto National Forest over the next few days, I kept

holding us both up by stopping to get photos.

This rich desert landscape is

otherworldly, although it is alive with

animal activity.  The prickly plants of

all shapes and sizes ring out with the

unique calls and rustlings of the

Gambel's quails, curve-billed

thrashers, cactus wrens and gila

woodpeckers.

Teddy bear chollas look so cuddly I

always find myself stomping into the desert to get a closer

look, only to find myself sitting with a pair of pliers later,

yanking their long thick thorns out of the soles of my shoes.

There is dispersed camping along the lake's shores, and

because the lake was being drained to an unusually low

level during our visit, to allow for dam repairs, the choice of

campsites was immense.

We rode down to the Yellow

Cliffs and circled back to our

campsite.  This area is layered in

memories for us, as we used to

ride our bikes out here

frequently to "get in some miles" and get away from the city, Mark

used to bring his kids here to swim, and we spent some happy

nights here in our popup as well.

Shortly after we pulled into our

campsite, we heard an incessant

meowing.  A little black and white kitty

suddenly came over to us and started

rubbing herself on our legs.  Where did

she come from?  The nearest house is in a huge masterplanned

community of mansions 14 miles away.  There was no way this

little cat had come that far.  Her coat was still clean and she was

perfect coyote snacking size.  We guessed she had been

abandoned or had snuck out of someone's car during a visit to

the lake in the last day or two.

We gave her some tuna,

and watched her lustily

chow down and lick the can

clean.  She promptly

adopted our top front step

as her own and spent the

afternoon watching the

world through half-closed

eyes from that vantage

point.  We couldn't keep her

and kept racking our brains

to come up with a friend in the area who might need

a cat these days.  None came to mind.

But at that moment a US Forest Service truck pulled

up and two young fellows jumped out.  They were

on the hot-shot forest fire crew for Tonto National

Forest and were busy trimming trees while waiting

for the next forest fire to break out.  They took one

look at the little kitten and fell in love too.  "Our

station cat was really old and he just died," one of

them said.  "We need a new station cat!"  How cool

is that.  The guys said they still had a stack of cat

food back at the station too.  The kitty hung out in

the shade near the fire fighters for the rest of the

day, and they whisked her off to the station once

their shift ended.  Truly one of the best stray cat

stories I've ever seen.

We've been to Bartlett Lake

countless times but had never

explored its back roads that wind

behind the dam.  After a steep

climb we got a great view of the

lake and then descended to the

river beyond the dam where there

are small campsites.

We even got out on the kayak and had

a chance to get up close and personal,

checking out the exposed shoreline.  A blue heron was patiently

fishing nearby.

One Saturday morning we got a glimpse of our old lives as the

Bicycle Haus bike team arrived from Scottsdale, flying down the

final screaming descent towards the lake.  We rode with

them back up to the ranger's station, some 14 miles from

the lake, and were glad we didn't have another 30 miles to

go after that to get to the starting point like they did.

Instead, we wandered along the roads at a slow pace, taking

leisurely photos of our dear friends, the saguaros.

In the backs of our minds we were mulling over what to do once

the winter weather started to arrive.  We didn't know just yet, but

new and different kinds of adventures were in store for us on the

Caribbean island of Grenada.

 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Havasu Springs Resort, AZ – Lucky Break!

Lake Havasu.

View from the resort.

Lakeside vacation mobile homes.

Ready to launch.

Secluded cove.

Resting on the resort's beach.

Solitary fisherman.

Green grasses line the shore.

Deserted Island.

Clear green water at a private campsite.

Water pumping station.

Salt Cedar sapling takes root on a bouy.

Nesting site on stilts.

Lighthouse guides boaters in.

Houseboats at the marina.

Havasu Springs Resort, Arizona

Late October, 2009 - We left Laughlin, Nevada with a hankering to get the kayak out onto Lake Havasu, one of the manmade

lakes that have bubbled the Colorado River into a string of elongated beads as it runs south.  Problem was, where to stay?  We

pulled into a Love's gas station as we exited I-40 to take AZ-95 south, and a man in an old pickup engaged Mark in conversation.

"Where are you going?"  He asked.

"South."

"Where are you staying?"

"I'm not sure."

"Can I interest you in a free 5-day, 4-night stay at Havasu Springs Resort?"

Mark's ears perked up.  Sure!  It turned out that one of the oldest RV

park timeshare membership programs, Colorado River Adventures,

was promoting their parks to the snowbirds as they migrated south.

We could choose from four different RV parks for the promo package,

but he told us Havasu Springs was the nicest.  "You'll have to take a 90

minute tour, but it won't be any longer than that, I promise.  You'll also

get a $100 Walmart gift card."

Score!!  Going to timeshare presentations was something of a sport in

the Phoenix area in the late 1990's.  The resorts were lovely, the

giveaways were lavish, and the presentations were usually not that long

or grueling.  During coffee breaks on our group bike rides in those days

we'd sit around with our friends and compare notes on the different

timeshares we'd toured.  Of course, it's a sport fraught with danger, as

almost everyone we knew had given in and purchased a timeshare

somewhere along the line.  Nowadays our savvy friends buy them for pennies on the dollar on the internet.

We looked at the brochure the man in the pickup had handed us, saw the

pictures of the pretty beaches along the lake, and jumped at the chance.

Once there, while we were checking in, Mark noticed a poster on the wall

that offered two free dinners at the resort's restaurant if you took a tour of

the condos that were for sale.  Within minutes we'd scheduled our condo

tour for later that day and our timeshare membership tour for the next

day.  Ironically, we then accidentally took a self-guided half-hour tour of

the whole resort on our own, with our monster rig, as we got lost several

times looking for our campsite.

We were assigned

an appealing end site.  Our rig filled the entire site, and we had to juggle our

position to get the slides out without hitting the electrical box or the tree, but

we gleefully plugged into electrical, water and sewer hookups for the first time

in 8 months.  We planned to bask in four days of very very long showers and

we set the air conditioning so it would cycle on and off at will (this is not

possible when we run the a/c from the generator: when the a/c cycles on it

overloads the generator, shutting it off, so we simply run the a/c til we are cool

and then turn it off, effectively cycling it manually).

Our condo salesman was at our door

just as we removed the last bungee

cord from the cabinets.  What fun to cruise through a fabulously decorated $800k condo

with views of the lake and mountains, envisioning ourselves hosting elegant parties that

spilled from the beautiful great-room out onto the sprawling deck.  We found out we could

pick up this piece of paradise for less than $500k because of the stalled economy.  What a

deal!

We politely declined, but the free

dinner at Springs that night was

wonderful.  We had a pretty table

overlooking the marina, and we

toasted each other and our fine

meal while we were serenaded by a

wonderful female vocalist.  The sun

set slowly behind the distant

mountains and we kept laughing

about what crazy good luck it was to

run into the guy in the pickup at the

gas station.

The biggest perk for us at this

resort was the chance to get out on

the lake with the kayak.  Early the

next morning we snuck down to the

boat ramp and launched the boat.

It was promising to be a very

blustery day, and the water soon

kicked up as we pedaled and

paddled along.

The funny thing about this tandem

kayak is that the front person gets

drenched by waves slapping the bow.  Mark thought it was all quite hilarious as wave after

wave splashed over the boat and all over me while he remained perfectly dry.  I got the

last laugh, however, as the water that dripped off of me followed gravity

and made its way along the bottom edges of the boat to soak Mark's seat.

After a while he was sitting in quite a puddle.  We cracked up when we

finally returned to the boat ramp and crawled out of the kayak, two wet

rats.

The timeshare presentation was later that afternoon, and we were

radiating grins when we arrived in our salesman's office after our morning

adventure.  He took one look at us, heard Mark explain that we live off the

grid, and he said, "I know you're not going to buy, so I'll keep this short."

He gave us a brief synopsis of what the membership program was all

about (summarized under the "High End Membership Programs" on the

Fulltiming page, about 40% down the page).  And before 45 minutes was

up, he was shaking our hands and wishing us safe travels.  There had

been a mixup about the Walmart gift card, so

he handed Mark a check for $100.  "I bet this

was the easiest $100 you ever made."

Absolutely!!

Soon afterwards we saw him in his golf cart

greeting some friends who had just moved into

a site behind us.  Not only did he know we

weren't going to buy, but he had better things

to do with his time late on a Friday afternoon.

We hit the resort's bar for $1.50 steak tacos

and rode our bikes all over the place.  It is an

expansive property with several hotels and

marinas, and we enjoyed roaming the grounds

so much we forgot to check out the swimming pool and hot tub.  However, we met a couple who

had just completed 20 years of sailing in the Caribbean, and we enjoyed a lengthy conversation with

them about that lifestyle.  They were now building a home base in Vancouver and had come south

in their RV to escape the cold for the winter.

They were happier cold weather creatures than

we were, however, as their long term plans

were to buy an old fishing trawler and explore

Alaska by boat.

The winds died down and we were gifted with

one glorious day on the water with the kayak.

This time we both remained dry and we

explored much further north along the lake.  It is

a huge lake, some 50 miles long, so there was no chance to get to the other

end where the famed London Bridge stands.  However, we probably got about

4 or so miles out, and we passed countless boat-in BLM campsites along the

shore.  These are charming little spots with private beaches, picnic tables and plenty

of room to spread out.  Only one of these pretty campsites was occupied.

We stopped at one that was set in a private cove and wandered along the clear

green water.  What a perfect place to take a young family for a weekend.  The kids

could run free, and the adults could

unwind.

The Parker Dam, which creates Lake

Havasu, is a huge concrete structure.

This business of controlling the

Colorado River took a lot of

engineering to create, and evidence of

the will humankind has exerted upon

this river appears in the vast

unpopulated hillsides in the form of water pumping stations with huge pipes and

industrial buildings

Heading in the

opposite direction,

towards the Bill

Williams Marsh, we found a wildlife nesting preserve.  Large tower

structures make inviting nest sites for birds.  We didn't see any of

the occupants, but there was plenty of evidence they had been

there, with nests on every tower.

We followed the lighthouse's beacon to one of the resort's marinas

and meandered between the houseboats.  There are all kinds of

ways to enjoy this corner of the world, staying at a resort hotel, in

an RV or a houseboat, or living in a condo or old mobile home

vacation house.  It's a small community tucked into a corner of the

lake on a long stretch of deserted shoreline.  It's one of those special little secrets that isn't necessarily advertised in bright lights

but we were fortunate enough to be lured in by a man in a pickup clutching a fist full of brochures.  We were still shaking our heads

in disbelief at this quirky detour in our travels as we made our way towards friends and family in Phoenix.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Roosevelt Lake, AZ – Desert Oasis

Saguaro cactus Roosevelt Lake Arizona wildflowers Roosevelt Lake Arizona wildflowers Roosevelt Lake Arizona scenic drive Roosevelt Lake Arizona Roosevelt Lake Arizona Tonto National Forest Campgrounds Roosevelt Lake Arizona marina Roosevelt Lake Arizona Tonto National Forest Campgrounds Roosevelt Lake Arizona Tonto National Forest Campgrounds wildflowers Roosevelt Lake Arizona Tonto National Forest Campgrounds Roosevelt Lake Arizona kayaking Tonto National Forest Tonto National Forest Roosevelt Lake Arizona kayaking Roosevelt Lake Arizona bridge to Tortilla Flats Arizona Roosevelt Lake Arizona kayaking Camping at Roosevelt Lake Hike along Roosevelt Lake Hike along Roosevelt Lake Roosevelt Lake at sunset Campground at Roosevelt Lake Campground at Roosevelt Lake Arizona Kayaking at Roosevelt Lake Roosevelt Lake boating Roosevelt Lake boating Roosevelt Lake RVing Roosevelt Lake birds

Roosevelt Lake, Arizona

April 5-18, 2009 - We left Chanute, Kansas in a blast of cold headwinds.

Those miserable winds pummeled us all the way across Oklahoma, Texas

and New Mexico.  We were totally windblown by the time we arrived in

Arizona, and we were utterly fed up with fighting it every time we set foot

outside the trailer.  Our usual mileage of 10 mpg while towing dropped as

low as 7.7 through parts of Oklahoma, and for the entire trip across

country our average was a dismal 8.5.

The truck and

trailer looked

like heck when

we got to

Arizona, and

we did too.  So

it was with great excitement that I

opened our door and looked out

at the lake on our second

morning and felt not just warm

sun on my skin but the sweetest

of gentle breezes on my face.

This is one of those areas that is

a little jewel on our planet.

Coming into Windy Hill Recreation

Area there is a fantastic curvy

road, and I spent several happy

hours on two different days

running up and down the road

getting pictures of RVs as they

drove past.

Roosevelt Lake was dammed in 1911, and at the time was the largest

man-made lake in the world.  We had lived in Phoenix, next door to this

little piece of heaven, for years, yet we had never been there.  I couldn't

believe how beautiful it was.  If we had known about it, we would have

camped there every spring and fall weekend in our popup tent trailer.

The lake is open to boaters of all kinds, and a marina sits next to the

visitors center.  There are lots of houseboats at the marina.  What a fun

place to roost for a while.

We had ridden our bikes on just about every road in the area with

various organized bike rides over the years, but the one spectacular

road that runs alongside the lake was a whole new discovery for us.

Everything

seemed to be

in bloom when

we arrived, and

the high winds

had blown

every bit of dust

and pollution to

kingdom come,

so the air was

crisp and clear.

The lake was

full to

overflowing,

and the views

in every

direction were

filled with the

promise of

spring.

We were blessed with a full moon

during our stay, and a group of birds

swooped back and forth in front of

the moon as it rose one evening.

The entire lake is smack in the

middle of Tonto National Forest, so

there is virtually no development

anywhere other than the slightly

developed campgrounds and an

Indian cliff dwelling site nearby.  I

was amazed by how many

campgrounds there are, and how

many campsites within each

campground.  The USFS has closed

several campgrounds and closed

many loops within the open

campgrounds, probably because

they just don't get enough

business to make it worthwhile to

maintain it all.

The campgrounds are set along little peninsulas, and many campsites

have a waterfront view.  Whoever designed the campgrounds along this

lake did an outstanding job.  There is boondocking too, but the

campgrounds are so spacious and pretty that we opted for a waterfront

site at the end of a peninsula instead.

Throughout our visit the cameras just kept clicking.  In every direction

we turned there seemed to be another lovely shot.  Friends of ours

were camped nearby, and each evening the discussion always seemed

to wander back to the various photos all of us had taken during the day.

One evening I

came back from a

bike ride to hear

an excited

discussion around

the campfire

about a clump of

clover and a bee.

This little bee had

unknowingly

become a

supermodel for the afternoon, and we

had fun comparing all the different

photos of him.

The Sonoran Desert is one of my

favorite places.  It extends from

Arizona into Sonora, Mexico, and is

extremely lush, filled with a wide

variety of flowers, birds and cactus.  It

is the only place in the world where

the wise old saguaro cactus chooses

to live, and they rule the landscape

with a myriad of personalities, all

seeming to wave a greeting to their fellow cactus.

The saguaros that have a cluster of arms are often 150 years old or

more.  Those cactus grew up in a very different world -- one with a

small river instead of a lake, for starters.

The main road hugs the lake for many miles, and on a few

days we ventured out to Tonto Basin, a small community at

the far north end of the lake.  On those morning drives the

hillsides were alive with bright yellow flowers and towering

cactus, looking down at the lake.  In the distance we could see

Four Peaks, an aptly named mountain range that makes a distinct

landmark on the horizon when looking east from Phoenix.  Here we got

to see its back

side.

A bridge spans

the river just

before the

dam, and every

time you drive

by it begs you

to take a

picture.

On several days we went out in the

kayak and pedaled and paddled

around.  The wind resumed its howling

every few days, so we had some

sloppy times on the water with the

spray flying.  But there were some

really calm days too.  Those were

times of heavenly relaxation and

serenity.

The lake is an interesting habitat because it is in the

middle of the richest Sonoran Desert land, but

because the body of water is so large, ducks, grebes and even seagulls set up

housekeeping here too.  Whenever we would go out in the kayak we were always

amazed to see hundreds of grebes swimming around.  They would alert each other to

our presence with frantic calls, and as we approached, one by one they would dive

underwater.  At the same time we could also hear the calls of the Gambel quail from

their perches in the desert scrub along the shore.

The fishermen complained

that the fishing wasn't too

good.  That surprised us,

because we saw all kinds of huge fish leaping out of the water as we

paddled.  Maybe their noisy powerboats were scaring off their catch.

The cycling in this area is spectacular as well.

There are a lot of organized rides sponsored by

the Arizona bike clubs that travel many of the

roads in this part of the state, however I know of

none that go along the lakeside road (route

188).  It would be the perfect location for an

organized ride: stunning scenery, challenging

climbs, screaming descents, and lots of picnic

areas for rest stops.

Roosevelt Lake is a gorgeous place, and we

felt blessed to be able to spend a good bit of

time there.

A little cardinal sang his heart out on one of our last mornings.

He seemed so happy to be alive.  Roosevelt Lake makes you feel

that way.  Sadly, we eventually had to pack up and go.  We drove

the beautiful lakeside road one last time and then turned west

once again to journey on to California.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fiery Sunsets and Interesting Folks in the Arizona Desert

Groups mark their territories and gather in the desert

in Quartzsite.

Whiling away the morning making music in the desert.

"Rowdy" of Cutler's Bull & Donkey Show

Quartzsite welcomes

characters of all kinds....

....no dress code required.

People come from all over, any way they can.

I heard a noise and looked out the window to see this

plane land a few feet from our trailer!

The desert pilots fly all manner of craft, but they have

nothing on the natural airborne essence of the

hummingbirds.

Sunrise

Sunset

Classic Sonoran Desert scenery at the White Tanks

mountains west of Phoenix.

The small cholla cactus applaud the silent, serene

performance of the Saguaros.

Water !!

And here it is, about 200 yards from the rock sign that the

ancients carved.

Arizona Deserts

December, 2008 and January 2009 - After Yuma, we stopped in Quartzsite en route to Phoenix for the holidays.  This became the

first of a delightful string of reunions with friends and family that filled our winter months, and we returned again in January.  As we

first settled into the strange desert living that characterizes boondocking in the Quartzsite BLM land, winter arrived with a

vengeance.  The land is ideal for RVs - flat, level, and hard-packed, as if it were paved.  But it is very exposed, with only some low

desert scrub brush and the rare saguaro cactus and hummingbird as company.  When the wind decides to blow the trailer rocks!

We camped next to our friends Bob & Donna Lea whose 20 years of

experience with winter camping in Arizona's deserts was invaluable as we

tackled the project of installing a new heater.  Their warm company made

the chilly, grey days pass very quickly, and we had a chance to compare

our solar setups (see notes at bottom of that page).

Each January, when it plays host to a series of gem shows and the

annual RV show, Quartzsite swells from a truck stop with a few homes

and small

stores to a 120

square mile

parking lot

filled with

retired RVers

from the north

country.  RVers gather in groups of all kinds, marking their territory with

signs.  "Loners on Wheels," "The Gadabouts," "Escapees Boondockers,"

and manufacturers' rallies fill the desert for miles in every direction.  A

paper plate with a couple's names on it and an arrow is enough to signal

friends to a gathering location.  There is no reservation system and no

management of these crazed senior citizens, so if you arrive and your

favorite spot is taken, you find another spot.

This year the Montana Owners' rally was the most impressive, even

though they took our friends' preferred spot by their favorite saguaro.  The

group drew an enormous circle in the desert floor, and as each rig arrived

it was carefully parked in a spoke pattern around the circle.  Some 50

Montana fifth wheels showed up, and

they formed a perfect circle around their

mammoth campfire.

Quartzsite is filled with unusual

characters.  As we walked one morning

we passed a couple making music

outside a rig.  He had been a

professional musician in his day, and

she was enjoying his pointers and

accompaniment.  Another day we were greeted by a

couple that puts on an animal show with their farm

animals in nearby Bouse.  They were doing rig-to-rig

advertising as they drove their animals through the

desert and invited people to their show.

Sightings of "rare birds" is common in Quartzsite, and

people watching is great entertainment for everyone.

We visited Paul's Oassis Books

bookstore again, and he was

dressed in his holiday finest.

Seeing Quartzsite out of

season makes you wonder

what would ever draw anyone

to visit this desolate, dusty,

shabby town.  But in January

people arrive

from all over,

and the town

comes alive.

We are accustomed to seeing hummingbirds at our trailer window's

feeder, but where else would you peek out your window to see a small

plane land just a few feet away?  We got a wave from the pilot when he

took off again!

Not just

Quartzsite's

culture but its

skies come alive

morning and

evening as well.

We were

blessed with

several stunning

sunrises and

sunsets.

I loved the way

the whole desert

sunset scene

would be

reflected in the

rear window of

our trailer.

Between visits

to Quartzsite,

we stopped in

Phoenix for

Christmas.  We

took several

wonderful hikes

in the White

Tank mountains

west of the city.

One hike goes to a waterfall that runs

only after a torrential downpour.  We were lucky and got a downpour and the waterfall was still

running when we hiked in.  I was fascinated to see a rock covered with petroglyphs showing

squiggly horizontal lines.  Clearly, the people who lived there a thousand or more years ago

noted the occasional presence of water by pecking out the universally recognized symbol of

water on the rock face.

After the holidays we

snuck back to San Diego

for the January sailboat

show.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Other blog posts from our RV travels to Quartzsite:

Our most recent posts:

More of our Latest Posts are in the MENU.
New to this site? Visit RVers Start Here to find where we keep all the good stuff!!

Yuma, AZ – Prisons and Balloons

A developer's palm tree lined neighborhood street. 

The homes were never built.

A Salton Sea inlet where there once was an RV park.

Long Fall shadows from our legs and a

walking stick.  Winter was coming.

The landscape of a mixed green salad

Yuma is the capital of leafy greens.

Lakeside in Yuma

Redondo Lake Boondocking

The dust storms are like blizzard white-outs

The morning greeted us with a spectacular sunrise

Steaming tea

Cheery moment - a sailboat passes through

Yuma en route to San Diego

Fantastic adobe houses with brightly glazed tiles

Old Town Yuma

The "Coolest Bar Downtown"

An old-time restaurant

loaded with antiques

and memorabilia

Owner-Operator-

Chef-Musician

Colorado River Crossing Balloon Festival

Heating up the balloon

Keeping the basket grounded

Balloons of all kinds

The Balloon Glow

Yuma Territorial Prison

Prison Guard

Cell block. No one ever escaped from these cells.

Double doors for each

cell

9' x 12' and 6 to a cell

Hike to the Towers

Yuma Lakes RV Park, submerged!

Yuma, Arizona

November 1-30, 2008 - We left San Diego in high spirits, the memories of the fog horns, the salt air, the fresh sailing breezes and

warm air still filling our senses.  So it was quite a shock when we climbed the mountains to the east on I-8 and had to brace

ourselves against a nasty wind storm that forced us under way too many blankets at night while the heater ran full blast.  We were

in denial about winter coming, and it was a relief when the storm passed and the California deserts at the base of the mountains

warmed us up again.  We stopped near Salton City for a few days, and heard the sad tale of the sadly exploited Salton Sea.

Salton Sea - lost treasure

The Sea was once a playground, filled with fish and boats and laughing

kids throwing sticks in the water for their dogs.  Sadly, now the beaches

are layered in dead fish on thick beds of bleached non-native barnacle

shells.  We rode our bikes through virtual ghost towns along this huge

inland salt lake's shoreline.  Palm trees lined would-be neighborhood

streets amid developers' evaporated dreams.  Half-built homes had long

ago given up hope for windows and siding, and their yawning open frames

were a stark contrast to the beautiful mountain, beach and waterfront

backdrop.

All are victims

of pesticide

runoff from

adjacent farmlands and

ever-rising salinity

caused by the Sea's

constant evporation.

Former picnic areas, RV

parks, tiki bars and

housing stand vacant,

disintegrating and

forlorn, longing for the

return of ecologically

healthier times that may

never come.  The only life is huge flocks of pelicans and ibis that feast on the sole

surviving fish, a tiny non-native species.  After talking at length with several long-

time residents about this miserable state of affairs, we moved on, our spirits badly

deflated.

Yuma: desert + water = produce

We went to Yuma, Arizona, hoping for sunlight and some good cycling.

We found both, along with a great place to camp near a small lake along

the edge of vast farmlands.  This corner of the world is rich in lettuce,

kale, spinach and other leafy greens.

We hooked up

with Yuma's

Foothills Bike

Club and did

several terrific

rides with

them, getting to

know the back

roads and canal banks around town.  Yuma is blistering hot in the

summer but comes to life each winter as residents of the northern states

and provinces arrive in flocks during their annual "snowbird" migration.

Most people we met around town lived in an RV, and there was a festive

air everywhere as old friends arrived and got together again.

One morning we awoke to a spectacular sunrise, but "red sky at morning"

proved true as an amazing wind storm blew into town.  The dust swirled until

you couldn't see, making white-out blizzard-like conditions on the roads.  The

temperature dropped

and suddenly we were

thrust into winter for

several days.  Suddenly

we were drinking

copious cups of hot tea

and taking long turns

over the heat vents to

warm our bones.

We had left San Diego

just a week or so ago, yet all that summertime fun was

quickly fading into a beautiful, distant memory.  Sigh.

Winter is not our favorite season.  Even in Arizona it is just

too darned cold for too long!

We cheered up immensely one afternoon when we found

ourselves in traffic behind a yacht hauler taking a brand new

boat from Florida to a dealership in San Diego.  How ironic that

this very same dealership had taken us on a "test sail" of this

very same boat model just a few weeks ago.

Yuma's Old Town

Yuma has a lot of history, and we spent some

happy afternoons wandering around the Old Town

district.  Most of the buildings, dating from 100

years or so ago, are made of adobe brick, so the

walls are enormously thick.

Many are decorated with pretty, brightly

colored, glazed tile, and we learned that

this is "Anglicized Sonoran" architecture.

We wandered down some stairs and

found ourselves in the middle of The

Garden Restaurant, a charming little spot

with tables on many levels, overhanging

branches offering colorful flowers and shade, and birds of

all types singing and squawking in cages along the

perimeter.

In winter especially, this is definitely an outdoor

community, with lots of little boutiques for shopping.

We saw the outside of the "Coolest Bar Downtown" but went

inside the famed Lutes Casino where antiques, memorabilia and

goodies from another era fill the restaurant from floor to ceiling.

A popular hangout for marines from the nearby Air Station, Lutes

has a display with a letter from a homesick marine in Desert

Storm who wrote longingly of how one of their "especial" dinners

(a hot dog and a hamburger) would taste so good right about

now...

As we started to turn back towards the parked truck

we heard the most amazing electric guitar riffs in the

distance.  Someone was having fun -- either

listening to something very loud or playing loudly

himself.  We followed the sounds to the Mustard Seed Restaurant.  The door

was propped open, and a musical firestorm filled our ears as we poked our

heads inside.  A young fellow was playing his heart out.  He stopped when he

saw us and introduced himself as the Owner-Operator-Chef of the restaurant.

"I'm just checking out the sound system.  Come back tonight at 9:00 and I'll be

jamming with some friends."

Balloon Festival

Yuma hosts the Colorado River Crossing Balloon

Festival each year, and we went to the fairgrounds to

see the Balloon Glow one evening.  One by one, at

least 25 balloons were laid out on the grass and filled

with hot air.

Balloon teams come to Yuma from all over for this festival, and each team expertly

raised their balloon to vertical and kept its basket tied to the ground so it wouldn't

float off.

There were traditional balloon shapes, a few with advertisers' names displayed, and

even one lady bug balloon.

As the sun set the spectators streamed in and the glow

began.  An announcer would get the balloonists to

coordinate their flame blasts so that all the balloons would

light up together.  The balloons can't take the hot air for

too long at a time, or they will try to float away,

so the balloons would glow together for just a

few moments and then go dark to cool down.

There were two balloon launches during the weekend as

well, but they required getting up and driving a long ways

before dawn, and both mornings we opted to stay in our

warm bed with the down comforters pulled over our heads.

Yuma Territorial Prison

Back when Arizona was young -- in

1876 when it was just a territory and

not yet a state -- it became home to

the Territorial Prison.  Arizona

distributed its various government

responsibilities between the three major

settlements:  Phoenix vied for the eventual

state capitol, Tucson nourished the seedling

public university, and Yuma got the prison.

This shaped the future state's personality:

Phoenix is the hub of commerce, Tucson is

the cultural mecca, and Yuma, well, Yuma

gave the prison to Florence in 1909 and

concentrated on agriculture and winter visitors.

This prison was nicknamed "The Hellhole of the West."  Out of ~3,000

prisoners only 26 ever escaped from the cell blocks.  No wonder: the cells

were steel cages covered with granite, and

each cell had a double door.  The first

prisoners had the privilege of building the

prison before moving in, which reminded me

of New Hampshire's modern day inmates

stamping out license plates with the motto

"Live Free or Die."

Each cell had six bunks, but as the years

went by they sometimes had to house more

than six men.  The single, shared chamber

pot was emptied once a day.  Bedbugs

lived in the wooden bunks and ate the

prisoners raw until the wooden bunks

were finally burned and replaced with

steel.  There was a "dark cell" that offered solitary confinement for disruptive prisoners.  We crept

into this pitch black hole that had housed a 5'x5' steel cage where prisoners spent anywhere from

one to over 100 nights.  The only light came from a tiny shaft above.  No chamber pot here:  the

floor of the cage was cleaned every few months.  Yikes.  Several women were rewarded for their

bad behavior with a stint in the dark cell too.

Hikes and Walks

There are pretty hikes in the hills around Yuma, and we ventured up a

very steep hill one morning to get a commanding view of the farmlands

and city.

Winter pressed on as November drew to a close, and we were deluged

with two days of torrential rain.  Nearby Yuma

Lakes RV Park became submerged, and the

reflections of the rigs in the standing water made

some colorful photos on our daily walks.

We stayed in Yuma for all of November, 2008, slowly adjusting to the fact that

winter was here and wasn't going to leave any time soon.  We got word from

friends we had met last year in Quartzsite that they were returning, so we

finally packed up and made the short trek north to one of the world's oddest

temporary communities:  the BLM land surrounding the truck-stop town of

Quartzsite, Arizona.  For the next two months we hovered in and around

Arizona's Deserts.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Grand Canyon’s North Rim – Its Better Half?

All American Road Route 67 Jacobs Lake AZ to North Rim Grand Canyon Arizona seen from our RV

The road to the North Rim winds through meadows.

All American Road Route 67 Jacobs Lake AZ to North Rim Grand Canyon Arizona monsoon season from our RV

Monsoon season was just starting.

Boondocking in our RV, Kaibab National Forest near the North Rim of the Grand Canyon AZ

A little piece of heaven camping in the Kaibab

National Forest.

Western Tanager in the Kaibab National Forest

Western Tanager

Vista Encantada lookout North Rim Grand Canyon Arizona

Vista Encantada

Angel's Window lookout North Rim Grand Canyon Arizona

Angel's Window

Cape Royal lookout North Rim Grand Canyon AZ

Cape Royal

Cliff Rose in bloom at the North Rim Grand Canyon AZ

Cliff Rose

Cape Royal lookout North Rim Grand Canyon AZ

Cape Royal

Cape Royal

Walhalla Lookout North Rim Grand Canyon AZ

Walhalla Lookout

North Rim Lodge at the North Rim of the Grand Canyon, Arizona

The North Rim Lodge has

exceptional views.

Sofa Room at the North Rim Lodge Grand Canyon AZ

Sofa Room at the Lodge

North Rim Lodge Dining Room Grand Canyon AZ

Lodge Dining Room

Sun Porch at the North Rim Lodge Grand Canyon AZ

Sun Porch at the Lodge

Bright Angel Point Trail North Rim Grand Canyon AZ

Bright Angel Point trail

Bright Angel Point North Rim Grand Canyon Arizona Bright Angel Point North Rim Grand Canyon Arizona

Bright Angel Point

Bright Angel Point North Rim Grand Canyon AZ

Bright Angel Point

Hiking in the Kaibab National Forest North Rim Grand Canyon AZ

Hiking in the Kaibab forest

Lupines blooming in the Kaibab National Forest North Rim Grand Canyon, AZ

We came across a clearing overflowing with lupines.

Lupines blooming in the Kaibab National Forest North Rim Grand Canyon, AZ Lupines blooming in the Kaibab National Forest North Rim Grand Canyon, AZ make great photos Aspens clustered in the Kaibab National Forest North Rim Grand Canyon, AZ

The aspens cluster together.

Black butterfly in the Kaibab National Forest North Rim Grand Canyon AZ Point imperial Lookout North Rim Grand Canyon, Arizona

Point imperial Lookout

Imperial Point North Rim Grand Canyon AZ

Imperial Point

Hiking Ken Patrick Trail from Point Imperial North Rim Grand Canyon AZ

Ken Patrick Trail from Point Imperial

Grand Canyon - North Rim

June 24 - July 13, 2008 - We left Flagstaff in search of cooler weather,

and we found that and much more at the North Rim of the Grand

Canyon.  The road from Jacob Lake to the North Rim is 44 miles of

graceful beauty.

After descending through dense woods, some of which were badly

burned in a wildfire in 2005, the road shakes out its curves, the tall

pines step back, and you fly along through lush meadows.  These

meadows were green when we arrived in June, but by the time we left

in July there were wildflowers of all colors scattered about.  The

elevation in this part of the world hovers between 8,500 and 9,000

feet, making the warm summer season very short.  When we first arrived the sun was abundant and the air was warm.

By the time we left the summer monsoons were in full swing, bringing

thick, black storm clouds every afternoon.  You could almost set your

clock by the 2:00 thunderstorms.  We camped in a little forest glade

that was pure heaven.  Our only neighbors were a jackrabbit and a

deer, both of which made several appearances, and a gorgeous male

western tanager who appeared near the end of our stay.  Our little

clearing was lined with aspen that quivered whenever the wind blew.

Our first evening in our little paradise we watched the sun set while

listening to John Denver sing about nature.  The warblers chimed in and

the aspen seemed to laugh and

dance in the orange glow of the

setting sun.  It was magic.

Our first trip to the Rim itself took us

on the farthest reaching road,

passing Vista Encantada and taking

us down to Angel's Window and

Cape Royal.  Vista Encantada was

bursting with wildflowers.  Yellows,

oranges and even the bright pink of a prickly pear cactus flower

enhanced the rust reds of the canyon.  The North Rim is not heavily

visited, and we were the only people at this lookout, gazing at the jaw-

dropping vistas while clicking away on the cameras.

Cape Royal, a massive lookout area, lies at the end of this road.

There is a charming paved walking trail through the scrub brush and

woods that leads out to Angel's Window as well as Cape Royal.  We

couldn't believe that we were the only ones on the trail.  Angel's

Window gives you a glimpse of the Colorado River if you peak

through, but once you climb onto the top of this arch formation you

get an unobstructed view.

As we walked we were overcome with the sweetest fragrance.  A

trailside plaque told us that the Cliff Rose was responsible for this

heady aroma.  We breathed deeply and walked slowly.  We were

here at the perfect time of

year.

Returning towards the

buggy, we stopped at some

of the viewpoints we had

skipped on our way out.

Walhalla Lookout is the

gathering place for a daily

ranger talk about the

ancients who lived in this

region, growing crops on a plateau 5,000 feet below at the Colorado River in the winter and moving up to the Rim in the summer.

There were some Indian ruins from 800 years ago, including a granary where they stored seeds for future planting.  From where

we stood we could easily see Mt. Humphreys in the San Francisco Peaks back in Flagstaff.  A 200 mile drive by car, the mountain

was just 50 miles away as the condor flies.  I watched the clouds gathering over Mt. Humphreys as the afternoon monsoons began

to build, and suddenly I understood why the Indians have always viewed the mountain as sacred.  From that hot, dry plateau way

down on the Colorado River, it would be only natural to believe that the mountain held a mystical power to create clouds and rain.

Those clouds and their life-giving moisture drifted over the canyon

and a light rain began to fall.

Another morning we walked the Transept Trail from the campground

to the North Rim Lodge.  This dirt path hugs the rim and occasionally

peaks out at a view that grows broader and broader as you approach

the Lodge.

The Lodge was built in 1928 and reflects the

elegance and simplicity of that earlier time.  It is a

stone and timber structure with enormous windows

overlooking the stunning view.  In the early days

visitors were greeted by singing staff members, and

the first view they got of the canyon was through

the immense windows that drew them across the

wide lobby floor.  Those windows are equally

alluring today, and comfy leather sofas fill the

room.

A beautiful dining room also

has towering windows that

look out at Canyon views,

and it is impossible not to

feel a tie to the past when

seated beneath these

chandeliers.

The Lodge also has a

sunporch with open-air

seating in front of the

spectacular view.  What a

place to enjoy a latte, soak in

the view, and maybe even

read the paper.

From the Lodge we wandered out on the paved Bright Angel Point

trail.  This is a pretty walk that takes you to the very end of the

peninsula that the North Rim Village is built on.

We clambered up onto the towering rocks to check out the many

views.  At the end you can see the widest part of the Canyon laid out

before you, stretching 21 miles to the South Rim.  We were able to

make out the tower at Desert View but couldn't see the other buildings

on the South Rim.  The immensity, colors and shapes were a feast for

the eyes.

We felt very blessed

to be able to stay in

the area for three

weeks.  After each

visit to the Rim we

would spend a day or

two back at the trailer

looking at our photos,

absorbing the

experience.  There is

a lot to see in the

Kaibab National

Forest as well, and

we did a lot of cycling

and hiking, checking out

the maze of dirt roads in

the area.

As we stayed more and

more flowers began to bloom

and on one hike we found

ourselves in a lush bed of

lupines.  There was a variety

of shapes and hues, and we

came back to this area

several times to enjoy the

rich colors.  A little further

down this road we found bunches of

yellow flowers that grew in clumps, like

nature's perfect little bouquets.

Mark noticed these little black butterflies

zipping around us periodically, and one

finally stopped long enough for him to

get its picture.

We drove out to Point Imperial

and hiked a portion of the Ken

Patrick trail to the south.  From

that viewpoint you can see the

Little Colorado River in the

distance.  It is a sheer canyon

that looks like a crack in the flat

landscape.  It almost looks like a

child took a stick and dragged it

across the sand in jagged motions,

leaving a deep trench in its wake.

Point Imperial is not hard to miss.

As we walked along the trail we saw

it shrinking in the distance behind

us.  There were many wonderful old

trees and tiny yellow and red

flowers along the route.  We felt so

grateful to be alive to be able

to experience these wonders.

It was hard to leave our little paradise in the

woods at the Grand Canyon, but the monsoons

turned nasty and we found ourselves in

sweatshirts and long pants for several days in a

row.  We even got hailed on twice -- pea-sized

hail that piled up on the ground for an hour

before melting.  We hadn't seen everything at the

North Rim, but we always leave a few discoveries

for future visits.  We wanted to head a little

further north towards Kanab and Bryce Canyon

in Utah.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sunset Crater, AZ – Looks Like it Exploded Yesterday!

J
Hithhiker II LS 34.5 RLTG weighs 13,995 lbs GVWR RV truck scale

Getting weighed

Hitchhiker fifth wheel at Bonito Campground in Flagstaff, AZ

Campsite at Bonito in Flagstaff.

Boondocking in the Cinder Hills OHV Area

Boondocking in the Cinder Hills OHV Area

Solar panel installation (Kyocera 130 watt solar panel & Mitsubishi 120 watt solar panels) on our RV, a Hitchhiker fifth wheel

Solar panel installation

hummingbirds visit our RV in the Cinder Hills Flagstaff, AZ goldfinches visit our RV in Cinder Hills OHV area Flagstaff Arizona Bicycling at Sunset Crater Flagstaff AZ

Sunset Crater erupted 800 years ago

Sunset Crater lava flow Flagstaff AZ

Smooth cinder hills alongside the road

Cinder Hills Sunset Crater lava flow Flagstaff Arizona near Bonito Campground

Cinder hills and lava flow

San Francisco peaks and Sunset Crater lava flow in Flagstaff AZ

San Francisco Peaks

Colorful cinders in the lava flow at Sunset Crater in Flagstaff AZ

Cinders are black gravel and red gravel

Bicycling - San Francisco Peaks near Bonito Campground at Sunset Crater outside Flagstaff, Arizona

San Francisco Peaks

San Francisco Peaks near Bonito Campground at Sunset Crater outside Flagstaff, Arizona Bicycling near San Francisco Peaks near Bonito Campground at Sunset Crater outside Flagstaff, Arizona Lava Flow Trail hike at Sunset Crater near Bonito Campground and San Francisco Peaks Flagstaff AZ

View from the top of the Lava Flow Trail hike

Lava Flow Trail hike at Sunset Crater near Bonito Campground and San Francisco Peaks Flagstaff AZ Vermillion Cliffs Arizona, near Lees Ferry AZ seen from our RV on the road

Vermillion Cliffs near Lees Ferry

Vermillion Cliffs AZ near Lees Ferry Arizona seen from our RV on the road Vermillion Cliffs Arizona near Lees Ferry AZ seen from our RV on the road

Neat spot for a house!

Vermillion Cliffs AZ near Lees Ferry Arizona seen from our RV on the road

Vermillion Cliffs - many colors in the rocks

Vermillion Cliffs Arizona near Lees Ferry AZ seen from our RV on the road Our RV starts the climb up to the Kaibab Plateau, Arizona

Start of the climb out of the desert up to the Kaibab Plateau

Sunset Crater National Monument, Arizona

June 4-24, 2008 - We drove from Chanute, Kansas to Flagstaff, Arizona (1,200

miles) in just 3 days.  We stopped long enough to weigh the truck and trailer at a

Flying J truck scale and found we were right at the limit.  Even though we had filled

only 1/3 of the cabinet space, our weight (with water and propane) was 13,850 lbs --

and the GVWR (Gross Vehicle Weight Rating) is 13,995 lbs.  No wonder the truck

noticed the load!!  This wasn't the little Lynx any longer!  We had met a lot of fifth

wheel owners whose cabinets and closets were stuffed to overflowing.  They must

run about 2,000 lbs or more over their GVWR.

As we traveled across

country the air got dryer

and the terrain got craggier.  On I-40 in Texas, 10 miles west of the

New Mexico border, there was a very distinct transition from open

plains to a desert landscape.  We had left tornado alley in the middle

of tornado season and we were glad to leave the severe storm

warnings and tornado watches behind.  However we drove straight

into a vicious headwind all the way across the country, and in New

Mexico and Arizona the winds were staggering.  We were paying far

more for gas than we ever had -- and we were getting 8.2 miles per

gallon!!

At an Arizona

visitors center

we heard

another fifth wheel driver discussing routes to Wasington with the host,

trying to find a way to get out of the horrible winds.  Not possible!  When

we arrived in Flagstaff it felt good to be among the tall pines under clear

blue skies again.  The winds eventually subsided, and we relaxed at our

favorite campground northeast of Flagstaff, Bonito Campground.  We

retired the truck for a while, sticking to our bikes as much as possible.

Flagstaff has a fantastic store for solar power related items (Northern

Arizona Wind and Sun), and just like the previous year, we used our

time in town to purchase a complete solar setup.  We upgraded to

490 watts of power (from 130) and a permanently installed pure sine

wave inverter.  We boondocked in the Cinder Hills OHV Area and

Mark took his time installing the new panels on the roof and the

charge controller and inverter in the basement.  After three days it

was done, and the system has been phenomenal ever since.

Wherever we are, it is always as if we have full electrical hookups.

The hummingbirds loved our feeder, and we

enjoyed watching them zip around.  One

morning a pair of warblers came to the feeder

for a visit.  Their beaks weren't shaped quite

right for the feeder, so they didn't stick around,

but I was thrilled to get their picture through

the window.

We took some leisurely bike rides through

Sunset Crater National Monument.  This is a beautiful area for cycling, as there is no traffic and the road is smooth and scenic.

Sunset Crater blew its top 800 years ago, filling the skies and covering the ground with cinder ash.  The cinder ash (black gravel) is

so thick that little can grow in it.  This makes the area seem as though the volcano erupted just a few years back.  The cinder hills

seem smooth from a distance, and there are places where the gravel is actually black sand.  In other spots the black gives way to

shades of red and brown, again making it seem as though this mountain were engulfed in volcanic flames sometime within my own

lifetime.  There is a region where the lava flowed, and today it is an impenetrable strip of sharp black rock.  If you look closely you

can almost see the ripples and waves as this thick angry goo washed down from the mountain.

In the distance the San Francisco peaks were still snow capped.

Standing over 12,000 feet high, the tallest of the peaks is easily visible

from the North Rim of the Grand Canyon some one hundred miles

away as the condor flies.  The Navajo and other native peoples have

long felt that the San Francisco peaks were sacred.  I had never really

understood exactly why until a few weeks later when we were camped

on the North Rim and were looking back at these peaks across the

canyon.  Every afternoon, like clockwork, the clouds would begin to

form over Mt. Humphreys.  There was no doubt that those mountains

attracted -- or were even the source -- of rain.  Looking down at the

barren plateau on the Colorado River at the bottom of the Canyon I

could understand why the ancients revered that distant mountain.  It

brought them much needed water for their crops.

We took a hike with friends up the Lava Flow Trail and

found some spectacular views of the San Francisco

peaks and the valleys surrounding the mountains.  It

was a steep but short climb up the hill and well worth

the view at the top.

When we first arrived in Flagstaff the overnight

temperatures were in the 30's and daytime highs were

in the high 60's.  After a few weeks the highs were

getting into the 90's.  Even boondocked in total shade

(we found it was a miracle that the solar panels still

fully charged the batteries everyday despite being in

full shade!), we were too hot.  It was time to move on

to somewhere cooler.

We headed to the North Rim of the Grand Canyon.  It

is a significant drive to get there.  Even though

condors and intrepid hikers

can cross the chasm in just 21

miles, it is a 200 mile trip by

car, because you have to go

way to the east, then a bunch

north, way to the west, and

then drop south to get there.

The drive takes you through

some beautiful desert

areas.  The Vemillion

Cliffs are stunning, jutting

up out of the desert floor

in vibrant shades of

orange, red, and even

turquoise.  There is little

in the way of towns on

this drive, just occasional

hamlets with perhaps a

store and cluster of

trailers.  We drove with

our eyes glued to the

beautiful scenery.

After taking the big left turn near Lees Ferry to head west, the red desert

suddenly gives way to greenery and you begin a steep and winding climb

up onto the Kaibab Plateau.  The desert floor is at about 4,000 feet

elevation and the top of the Kaibab Plateau is at about 9,000 feet.  North

Rim here we come!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Quartzsite, AZ – Snowbird Roost

Boondocking with the Boondockers in Quartzsite, Arizona The RV Show in Quartzite, AZ Boondocking in Quartzsite, Arizona Escapees Boondockers in Quartzsite, Arizona Boondockers in Quartzsite, AZ A rare boondocker in a boat in Quartzsite, Arizona Spectacular sunset in Quartzsite, Arizona Beautiful sunset in Quartzsite, Arizona Another gorgeous sunset in Quartzsite, AZ Colorful sunset in Quartzsite, Arizona Pretty sunset in Quartzsite, AZ Boondockers and ultralights and the odd RV in Quartzsite, Arizona Ultralights in Quartzsite, Arizona Ultralights with the boondockers in Quartzsite, AZ Ultralights in flight in Quartzsite, Arizona Ultralights flying over Quartzsite, AZ Boondocking in Quartzsite, Arizona Quartzsite, AZ Boondocking A boondocked RV in Quartzsite, AZ Boondocking the high life with Alpine Coach in Quartzsite, AZ Alpine Coach rally in Quartzsite, Arizona Alpine Coach gathering in Quartzsite, AZ Quartzsite, Arizona RV show

The RV show has tents filled with vendors of every

description.

Hi Jolly in Quartzsite, AZ

Quartzsite, Arizona

November 27-December 8, 2007 and January 10-24,

2008 - We took our time traveling from Death Valley

through Pahrump, Nevada and Lake Havasu, Arizona

and finally settled down for a while in Quartzsite,

Arizona.  This is a small dusty desert town of 2,000

year-round residents that swells to 1,000,000 people in

January during the annual RV show and RV snowbird

migration from the northern states and Canada.

We arrived before the madness really took hold, but we still

found the desert boondocking areas surrounding the town

absolutely teeming with RV's.  The Escapees Boondockers had a

rendez-vous a few miles outside of town and we parked near

them.

The Escapees are folks that like to have fun, and everyday there was a

schedule posted on the communal white board.  Many of these folks have

been full-time RVing for ten years or more, and for the first time we found

ourselves surrounded by people who had a lot of experience with this

crazy lifestyle.

We had felt pretty smug about our 130 watt solar panel, because it

had given us all the power we needed over the summer.  But as we

sat through a week of overcast, cold days with nights that started

around 5:00 pm, we realized we needed to know more about our

electrical system.

We were using oil lamps to supplement our power needs

while our neighbors watched their 32" TVs in comfort.

There were Escapees who traveled with wind generators

-- when the sun doesn't shine in the desert you can count

on howling winds -- and one fellow had 1,000 watts of

solar power.  We quizzed everyone around us about their

setup and we learned more in those few weeks than we had since we had started in May.

One morning we woke up to find a 27' sailboat parked in the desert near us.

The couple onboard was traveling from Flathead Lake in Montana to San

Carlos, Mexico to launch their boat in the Sea of Cortez for the winter.  They

were living in the boat on its trailer.  Now that was an interesting camping setup!

One of the great joys in

Arizona is the

spectacular sunsets.

As our quiet desert days

passed, we were treated to

one amazing evening

display after another.

A popular activity for

these wintertime

desert dwellers is

flying ultralights.  We

were parked next to a group

that took off in their flying

machines every morning.  It

was a colorful sight, and we

enjoyed sipping our morning

coffee watching these guys

take off into the sky.

There are many places to

boondock both north and

south of town.  It is very

congested along the major

roads and there are little

handmade signs everywhere

pointing to gatherings of like-

minded people.  The Solos were clever

and parked their rigs next to the Loners on

Wheels.  We saw signs for the "Roamin'

Rods" (fisherman), Mineral Lovers and

Elks.  Many brands of RVs had rallies.

Monaco, Nuwa, Alfa, Allegro and others

clustered together.

If you take your time, you can find a

quiet spot away from the crowds.  You

set yourself up to get the best view and

the best sun angle for your solar

panels.

We found a nice spot that even had a fire ring from some earlier visitor.

After we got settled

we discovered we

had parked right

behind the Alpine

Coach rally.  As

the days passed

their numbers

grew to over 100

coaches, many

worth $400,000+.

We hadn't

realized we'd settled into the high rent district!!

Their rally was lots of fun and included

several catered meals and a double-

feature drive-in movie one night -- all in

the open desert.

Alpine sent some salespeople into the desert with demo coaches for sale, so we had an

impromptu RV dealership set up right next to us.  We had a blast touring these amazing rolling

homes.

The fun thing about boondocking in the

desert in the winter is that you never know

who your neighbors will be.  People living on

a microscopic budget out of the back of their

pickup truck end up next to multi-

millionaires.  Social barriers and manned

gates that alienate these people in other

communities disappear out here.  The guy in the 1970's van and the

guy in the brand new gazillion dollar mobile mansion can be good

buddies for a few days while they are camped side by side in the

desert.

Quartzite is a classic funky Arizona desert town.  Ages

ago an arab came to the area with camels, thinking these

hearty desert beasts of burden would thrive in Arizona.

He was wrong about the camels, but his legend outlived

him.

Quartzsite keeps up its tradition of quirkiness with its

modern-day characters.  Paul, the bookseller at the far

east end of town, is a staple in the community,

responsible for a lot of community spirit, including hand-

drawing the town map that is sold to visitors.  He finds the

climate in Quartzsite to be just right for minimal attire, and he prefers to dress as lightly as possible.

All through our January stay in Quartzsite we had been watching the weather map on the back page of USA Today.  Everyday it

seemed that the people in Florida were without doubt warmer than the people in Arizona.  Mark's son was stationed in Jacksonville,

Florida, and we had lots of northern relatives who would be heading that way to thaw out during the winter.  It only made sense for

us to scamper over to the east coast too.  So we packed everything up, laid out our shorts in hopes of warmer weather, and drove

across country to northern Florida.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Other blog posts from our RV travels to Quartzsite:

Our most recent posts:

More of our Latest Posts are in the MENU.
New to this site? Visit RVers Start Here to find where we keep all the good stuff!!