Ennis, MT & Earthquake Lake – Small Town Charm & Airstream Trailers!

Ennis Montana elk bugling statue

Ennis, Montana

Mid August, 2012 – After leaving Nevada City, MT, we found ourselves buzzing through the small town of Ennis. It was so appealing we just had to stop and look around, and the next thing we knew two days had gone by and we were still in Ennis (population 840!).

Ennis Montna, Ennis Cafe

Cool sign above the Ennis Cafe

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

This is snow country and hunting country and elk and deer country, and there was vivid evidence of this all around town. We had recently discovered that “antler hunting” is a popular pastime when the elk shed their antlers each year, as the crazily shaped horns can be used for all kinds of intriguing home decorations.  Sure enough, there was a store in town dedicated to all things Antler.

Ennis Montana Fence made of Skis

A picket fence in snow country!

Ennis Montana guns on display in store

Hunting is a favorite activity.

 

 

But the little shop that got my interest perked most was CR.eations Yarn Shop, a little boutique store that sold specialty yarns from all kinds of woolly creatures from all over the world.

Ennis Montana Creations Yarn Shop

We found a wonderful yarn shop

Ennis Montana Creations Yarn Shop Cool Front Door

CR.eations has a very cool front door

I love knitting and crocheting and have always found something soothing and sensual about the different kinds of yarns you can work with.  But my needlework days were back when I was a teenager in the 1970’s, popping off sweaters and afghans to ward off those cold New England winters.  It was amazing to see how far yarn has come since then!

CR.eations Yarn Shop Ennis Montana

Christine in her colorful shop of plush yarns

Christine Rodgers is the German-born owner of this shop, and she eagerly showed me her many different wares.  She explained in detail how each yarn was processed, what kinds of animals it came from and what kinds of projects it would be best suited for.  She took me from shelf to shelf, putting soft fluffy skeins in my hands and describing how the wool had been pulled or twisted to create the yarn.  Coarse yarn, silky yarn, thick yarn, thread-like yarn – she has it all.  She even demonstrated the use of a primitive spinning wheel like the one the traditional Zapotec Weavers had shown us in Chiapas, Mexico last spring.

The woolly animals responsible for Christine’s lovely yarns are raised on special farms, but some other furry creatures entertained us right outside the buggy that afternoon.  We got a much needed deluge of rain, and a horse that had been quietly munching grass in the pasture behind our trailer suddenly went berserk, rolling around in the wet grass in a show of unbounded joy.

Ennis Montana Mule Deer

Deer frolicked near the buggy

Just as we were laughing about his crazy behavior a group of deer joined in the sport and soon they were all rubbing their backs in the grass and kicking their legs in the air in glee.

Airstream Trailer Caravan Summer 2012

We saw streams of Airstreams

The small herd of deer hung around quite a bit, and the next morning they wandered past our trailer several times on their way to and from the nearby woods.

Earthquake Lake Montana

Earthquake Lake

We finally tore ourselves away from Ennis and journeyed south towards Earthquake Lake.  We always take note when we see other RVs on the road, but this morning was special: at least twenty or thirty Airstream trailers passed us going in the opposite direction.  It’s uncommon  to see just three or four Airstreams in one day, so after the first half-dozen went by we knew something was up.

Earthquake Lake Montana

Sure enough, when we got to the Earthquake Lake rest area we poked our heads in on a couple in an Airstream and found out we were crossing paths with an Airstream Caravan, an organized 52-day rally of twenty-five trailers that was following Lewis & Clark’s journey.  On this particular day they were coming from Yellowstone in Wyoming and going to Dillon, Montana, but their overall route went across the country, following the explorers’ path.  What a fun way to spend a summer!

We hung around Earthquake Lake for a while and learned a bit of its intriguing history.  We hadn’t known that on the fateful night of August 17, 1959, there was a 7.5 earthquake right there in the Madison RIver Canyon.  In just moments the earth’s crust plunged 19 feet, submerging the north shore of Hebgen Lake (along with all its shoreside cabins) and thrusting the south shore upwards.  The lake became a giant, rocking bathtub, with water sloshing back and forth and over the dam.  28 lives were lost and hundreds of vacationers were trapped as portions of the highway slid underwater.  What a mess.

Views of Earthquake Lake Montana while boondocking in our RV

Earthquake Lake Montana

But today Earthquake Lake is beautiful and tranquil and you can’t even see a hint of the fiery forces beneath the earth’s surface that created such chaos above.

These were our final days in Montana, and it was sad to say goodbye to a state that had taught us so much history and shown us so much beautiful scenery over the past month.  But the lure of the stunning Grand Teton National Park tantalized us and drew us south to Jackson, Wyoming.

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Bear Lake, UT – The Caribbean of the Rockies

Thistle at Sunset

Thistle at Sunset

Utah has happy barns!

Utah has happy barns!

Early July, 2012 – From the alpine forests of Utah’s Mirror Lake Scenic Byway we crossed the bottom corner of Wyoming and then emerged back in Utah at spectacular Bear Lake.

There’s something about Utah that always puts smiles on our faces.  And we aren’t alone.  Even the barns there are smiling.

The Caribbean of the Rockies

The Caribbean of the Rockies

Bear Lake lake is known as The Caribbean of the Rockies, and its vivid turquoise color is why.  As we looked out across the water at the jet skis and colorful catamarans flying past we had to wonder, is this Utah or are we back in Mexico in the Sea of Cortez again?

Sailing on Bear Lake

There is a campground at the south end of the lake with lots of sites that back up to the water.  It was fourth of July weekend and the place was packed.  Everywhere we looked we saw barbecues, boats on trailers, fishing gear, happy dads drinking beer, and kids running around in bathing suits.  From early morning, it seemed, the air was filled with the delicious aroma of grilling steaks.

Bear Lake Sunset

Bear Lake Sunset

One morning we took our bikes along the lake’s shore and discovered the coolest little trailer park.  It had been built long before the other bigger waterfront mansions began to take over along other parts of the shore, but it had been built in the most choice location.  Sitting high on a bluff, these tiny old single-wides had the best views of the lake.

Moonrise over Bear Lake

Moonrise over Bear Lake

Just 600 square feet or so inside, each one had a fantastic, sprawling deck that looked out over the lake, and it was clear from the elaborate patio setups that these folks spent summers outside on the deck!

We were at Bear Lake during the full moon, and it rose over the opposite shore each night, leaving a brilliant trail on the water.

Happy July 4th

We had been here once before, climbing over Logan Pass from the Salt Lake City area to  arrive at the western side of the lake.  This time we hung out at the south end.  It was only as we were leaving that we realized what a big lake this really is – probably 50 miles around the shoreline.

Continuing north along the border of Utah and Wyoming, our next stop was Afton, Wyoming.

 

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Mirror Lake Scenic Byway Utah – Fishing and Fun!

Early July, 2012 – After exploring the pretty Provo Canyon and Alpine Loop Scenic Byways we set our sights on another one of Utah’s beautiful drives, the Mirror Lake Scenic Byway.

This road climbs into the mountains on the way out of northern Utah, pausing at a spectacular summit
before plunging into southern Wyoming.

As it winds through the peaks it takes several sweeping curves between the many alpine lakes.

We parked the buggy in a nice secluded spot in the woods and soon discovered that the sound of rushing water we heard was a huge waterfall that was just a little ways down a narrow trail from the rig.  What a find!  Wildflowers were growing along the water’s edge, and we spent many happy hours among them, marveling at the endless flow of crashing water.

During our stay we hiked to several of the lakes in the area, finding each a little different and pretty in its own way.  The Byway’s namesake Mirror Lake was a hubbub of activity on the Sunday afternoon we visited.

Fishermen lined the banks and kids played on the shore.  The water was filled with floating craft of all kinds, from kayaks to inflatable boats, and despite the many people on the trails and in the water there was a serenity to this lake that was infinitely appealing.

We enjoyed a few blissful days in these alpine lakes and then made our way off the mountain to Evanston, Wyoming.

Criss-crossing the Utah and Wyoming state borders in this area, we continued north towards Utah’s beautiful Bear Lake.  The nickname for this lake is “The Caribbean of the Rockies” and we soon knew why.

 

 

 

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Fish Lake Utah – Wildlife and Aspen Groves

In mid-June we visited Fish Lake, Utah, and drove the pretty Fish Lake Scenic Byway where we saw lots of wildlife and later learned the story behind Five Wives Vodka. RV boondocking is all about spectacular views and space to spread out.

It was a tight squeeze to get here…but oh, was it worth it!

Sometimes driving the fifh wheel down dirt roads breaks stuff in the trailer.

Mark fixes a light fixture.

Mother duck and ducklings on Koosharem Reservoir, Utah.

Mama duck & ducklings.

Seagulls fishing on Koosharem Reservoir, Utah.

Seagulls fished every afternoon.

A hummingbird sits on my bike's derailleur cable.

A hummingbird guards "his" feeder.

Pelicans floating on Koosharem Reservoir, Utah.

Little white pelican boats float past.

One way to walk your dog.

The easy way to walk your dog...

Dog bounding through tall grasses at Koosharem Reservoir, Utah.

…the dog's gotta run to keep up!

Bunny relaxing in the shade.

Relaxing in the shade of the trailer...

Cows watch our every move.

Cows stop what they're doing to study us as we ride past.

RV boondocking offers stunning views and privacy.

An idyllic setting.

Road to Richfield Utah goes over red rock mountains.

Red rock mountains encircle green farmland.

Richfield Utah is green farmland tucked between red rock mountains. Magazine rack in Richfield Utah.

Happy rural living.

Scowcroft Never Rip Overalls mural on the wall of Grass Valley Mercantile Company in Koosharem Utah.

The Grass Valley Mercantile Company.

Inside the Grass Valley Mercantile Co. Koosharem, Utah.

Inside the Mercantile.

Salt Lake Randonneurs on a 250-mile one-day bike ride

These guys were 93 miles into a 250-mile daytrip.

Fish Lake Scenic Byway, Utah.

Fish Lake Scenic Byway.

Fish Lake Lodge, Utah.

The deck of Fish Lake Lodge overlooks the lake.

Fish Lake seen through aspens, Utah.

Fish Lake through the aspens.

Cool staircase outside Fish Lake Lodge, Utah.

A creative banister on the deck stairs.

Wildflowers in Fish Lake, Utah.

Wildflowers!

Elk head on the wall of Fish Lake Lodge, Utah. Cozy fireplace and log rocking chairs at Fish Lake Lodge, Utah.

The fireplace.

Carving up the day's catch at Fish Lake - ugh!

"Ooh - fish guts - Yuck!!"

Carving up the day's catch at Fish Lake - cool!

"Cool, dad!!"

Old Spanish Trail, Fish Lake, Utah.

The Old Spanish Trail...memorialized.

Fish Lake Scenic Byway, Utah.

Fish Lake Scenic Byway.

Butterfly.

Butterflies and moths were everywhere.

The Mormon Temple in Manti, Utah.

The Mormon Temple in Manti.

Liquor outlet store, Utah.

Liquor is sold only in special places.

Free the Five Wives t-shirt.

Free the Five Wives!!

Five Wives vodka bottle.

The culprit.

Koosharem and the Fish Lake Scenic Byway, Utah

Mid-June, 2012 - Searing heat chased us out of the brilliant red rocks of Capitol Reef National

Park, Utah, and we were glad to see the landscape cool to soft green rolling hills as we traveled

north.  Searching for a scenic place to put the fifth wheel, we wriggled down a narrow dirt road,

squeezed the big rig between some very thick bushes, and finally emerged onto a perfect

shoreside spot on the edge of the Koosharem Reservoir.  What a view!

Of course, taking a 52' long rig down a rutted dirt

road can wreak havoc inside

the trailer, and Mark had to JB

Weld one of the light fixtures

back together again.

What a beautiful contrast the

blues and greens of this place

were to the rugged red rock

cliffs of Capitol Reef just 50

miles south of us.  Wildlife was

everywhere.  Raucous seagulls

went fishing right outside our door

every morning and evening, and a

mother duck cruised by every sunset with her

brood in tow.

Hummingbirds discovered our feeder minutes

after we put it out, and one took up residence

on the derailleur cable of my bike, jealously

guarding the feeder from a distance.

Life was very relaxed on this little lake.

Cormorants would surface from fishing

underwater every so often, and in the late

afternoons the pelicans would float by like

little white boats.

Just as regularly, a neighboring RVer

would zoom past on his motorbike while

his dog bounded eagerly behind.

One afternoon we found a rabbit lounging in the trailer's shadow looking very much

like he owned the place.

The lake was surrounded by pastures filled

with cattle and sheep.  When we rode our

bikes around the lake the cows all stopped

what they were doing and stared at us

intently as if they had never seen a bike

before.

There was a peaceful serenity here.

One morning we headed over the hills to the towns of

Richfield and Koosharem.  Red rocks revealed

themselves once again on our drive, and the valley

stretched like a vast green sea of farmland between the

mountains.

We had been visiting national parks for the last month,

going from one tourist destination to the next.  But this

was down home farm country.  When we parked at the

supermarket it was quite a change to slide in between

two trailers, one carrying irrigation equipment and the

other one filled with sheep.

Peering through

the slats of the

sheep trailer I

spotted a face that was fluffy and white with dark eyes but was definitely not a sheep.

"That's a Great Pyrenees Mountain Dog," the farmer said as he walked over to me.

"He lives with the sheep all the time and guards them."  Sure enough, he looked very

contented in the trailer with all his sheep buddies surrounding him.

We got another

reminder of the rural

nature of this area

when we scanned

the magazine rack in

the supermarket and

saw "Chickens

Magazine" standing

front and center.  It featured

an article on how best to

catch and hold a hen.  All the

outdoorsy joys of rural living

were highlighted on this

magazine rack:  right behind

Chickens were Hunting

Illustrated, The

Backwoodsman, Rifle's Varmint Magazine, Trophy Hunter, Bow & Arrow, Fly Rod & Reel,

Illustrated Horse Magazine and The New Pioneer.

Over in the tiny town of Koosharem, the Grass Valley Mercantile Company has been the local

variety store for eons.  The mural on the outside of the building advertised "Never Rip

Overalls" by Scowcroft, a brand of pants we learned later were made in Utah in the early part

of the last century.  They were known for their ruggedness right up until the last pair was

produced in 1937.  There was a comforting air of antiquity here.

On our way into town

we had followed several

groups of cyclists,

including a pair on

recumbent bikes.  We

caught up with

Katherine of the Salt

Lake Randonneurs at

the Mercantile.

Between gulps of V8

juice she explained that

she and her companion

were 93 miles into a 250 mile bike

ride that day.  The kicker was that the

group of cyclists was doing all those

miles in just one day and night.  Yikes!

Another day we drove the Fish Lake

Scenic Byway, one of Utah's many

beautiful highways and byways that are

officially (and rightfully) designated as

"scenic."  This road weaves and curves

through pine tree studded hills and into

thick aspen groves.

A bike trail runs alongside the lake and

we found ourselves jumping on and off

our bikes to take in the views and check out the

wildflowers.

Fish Lake Lodge is the centerpiece of

the whole Fish Lake community. 

It's a wonderful log building filled with

trophy heads with a large dining room

that looks out over the lake.

We were there in the summertime, but the fireplace

looked ideal for snowy winter evenings too.

Of course the main activity at Fish Lake is fishing,

and it seemed everyone we saw was carrying a

fishing pole, a tackle box and other specialized

fishing tools. Melton Tackle seems to be a good

brand for a great day of fishing.

A large family huddled around one of the fish

cleaning stations near the Lodge, and two men

busily carved up the day's catch. The kids watched

in fascination as one of the men sliced open the

belly of a fish and then explained it was a female

as he pulled out a fistful of eggs!

The little girl scrunched up her face and squealed

“Gross!” while the little boy next to her grinned,

"That's cool, Dad!”

The Fish Lake Scenic Drive lived up to its billing and was very pretty.  People have

traveled through this area for a long time.  It was first inhabited by mammoth hunters

some 9,000 years ago, and part of the Old Spanish Trail, used by Utes and cowboys

alike, wanders along the western side of the lake.  Out of the corner of our eyes we

both thought we spotted a train of horseback riders, but on second glance we saw it

was a memorial sculpture in the middle of a field commemorating the Utes and settlers

who traversed the Old Spanish Trail.

Notes from Kit Carson in

1848 described the shallow

streams in the area as

"swarming with fish."  Using

just "an old bayonet

fastened to a stick" he

caught five dozen fish at sunrise in the icy water.

We didn't see quite such plentiful fish, but we found

the flower-strewn banks of the lake and streams

teeming with butterflies.

The rolling hills around Fish Lake got us thinking

about the bigger mountains up north, and we soon

packed up the rig and journeyed a little further down

the road.  Utah is home to many devout Mormons,

and the temple in the small town of Manti was

quite a sight to see out the truck window.

The flip side of such piousness is that liquor is

rather hard to find.  The small towns we

passed through didn't sell beer at the grocery

stores.  To satisfy that kind of wayward vice

you had to go down to the gas station or to a

liquor outlet store.

We felt quite sinful when we ducked into one of these small outlets on the edge of

town, and we guiltily glanced over our shoulders to see if anyone was watching us as

we slipped through the door.

Another unusual side to the Mormons' straight-laced style of Christianity is the dubious

history these fine people have with polygamy.  The practice was abandoned long ago

by mainstream Mormons, but the idea of it still raises eyebrows among non-Mormons

today.  So it was with a slight smirk that we heard the story behind a t-shirt hanging on

the wall which showed five jailed women in vintage garb above the words.  "Free the

Five Wives."

Apparently a Utah distillery recently created a delicious new vodka which they named

"Five Wives Vodka."  Its popularity soared when the distributors over in Idaho refused

to carry it because they found the name insulting to the faithful.  This ban resulted in

an outcry among vodka lovers on both sides of the border.  T-shirts demanding that

the Five Wives be let out of jail were printed up and they sold like mad.  Naturally we

had to pick up a bottle of the stuff, as we have both really enjoyed the Wasatch

Brewing Company's beer called "Polygamy Porter" which, ironically, has always been

sold freely and never been banned anywhere!

Happily toasting Utah's incredible beauty, we left Koosharem in pursuit of the pretty

scenery and great bike rides found along the Scenic Byways of Provo Canyon and its Alpine Loop.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fish Lake Scenic Byway

Fish Lake Scenic Byway, UtahWhile visiting central Utah on a recent summer day, my husband and I drove the Fish Lake Scenic Byway, one of the state’s many beautiful highways and byways that are officially (and rightfully) designated as “scenic.”  This road, Utah Route 25 between Loa and Fish Lake, weaves and curves through pine tree studded hills and into thick aspen groves.  A bike trail runs alongside the lake and we quickly unloaded our bikes to ride this waterfront path.  We soon found ourselves jumping on and off our bikes to take in the views, smell the fragrant air and check out the thick carpets of wildflowers that rolled down to the shore.

Fish Lake Lodge is the centerpiece of the Fish Lake community.  It is a wonderful old building made of logs and filled inside with trophy heads, an inviting fireplace and a large dining room that looks out over the lake.  We were there in summertime, but the fireplace looked like it would be perfect for snowy winter evenings too.

Of course the main activity at Fish Lake is fishing, and it seemed everyone we saw was carFish Lake Lodgerying a fishing pole or a tackle box.  A large family huddled around one of the fish cleaning stations near the Lodge, and two men busily carved up the day’s catch.  The kids watched in fascination as one of the men sliced open the belly of a fish and then explained it was a female as he pulled out a fistful of eggs.  The little girl scrunched up her face and squealed, “Gross!” while the boy next to her grinned, “That’s cool, Dad!”

The Fish Lake Scenic Drive lived up to its billing and each view around every bend was better than the last.  The aspen shivered and shimmied their brilliant green leaves while the pointy dark green pines seemed to pierce the sky.  First inhabited by mammoth hunters some 9,000 years ago, people have traveled through this area for a long time.  A portion of the Old Spanish Trail, used by Utes and cowboys alike, wanders along the western side of the lake.  Out of the corners of our eyes we both thought we spotted a train of horseback riders, but on second glance we saw it was a memorial sculpture in the middle of a field commemorating the Utes and settlers who traversed the Old Spanish Trail.

butterflyNotes from Kit Carson in 1848 described the shallow streams in the area as “swarming with fish.”  Using just “an old bayonet fastened to a stick” he caught five dozen fish at sunrise in the icy water one morning.  We didn’t see quite such plentiful fish, but we found the flower-strewn banks of the lake and streams teeming with butterflies.  The warm summer air buzzed with busy insects, and seagulls cried in the distance.

Trading our bikes and helmets for our hiking shoes and camera gear, we strolled along the shore, watching the cormorants fishing and seagulls soaring overhead.  The sun glinted freely off the glittering lake and the sun was hot on our backs.  In contrast to all the activity of the creatures around the lake, the campgrounds along the shore were quiet and had plenty of vacancies.

Our refreshing mid-summer’s trip to this bucolic spot reminded us yet again that Utah’s scenic byways are always worthy of a detour.

Logan Pass, Bear Lake, Mt. Nephi, & Cedar City, Utah

Valley of a Thousand Haystacks, Montana.

Valley of a Thousand Haystacks, Montana.

Logan Pass Utah Logan Pass Utah

Rugged cliffs along the Logan Pass

Logan Pass Utah

Jagged peaks define the views of Logan Pass.

Limber Pine Natural Trail

Limber Pine Natural Trail

Limber Pine Natural Trail

2,560 year old Limber Pine

(or is it 560 years old?)

Limber Pine Natural Trail

Tree-hugger.

Bear Lake UT

Sneak peak at Bear Lake

Bear Lake Utah

The view of Bear Lake opens up before us.

Bear Lake Utah

Shore of Bear Lake, Utah

Boating on Bear Lake Utah

Bear Lake Marina

Cache Valley Utah

Fresh raspberries in the Cache Valley.

Nebo Loop Scenic Drive Nephi Utah

Classic Utah rock formations line the road.

Nebo Loop Scenic Drive Nephi Utah

The Nebo Loop Scenic Byway.

Nebo Loop Scenic Drive Nephi Utah Devils Kitchen

Tiny Devil's Kitchen rock formation.

Nebo Loop Scenic Drive Nephi Utah Mt Nebo

A motorcycle rally greets us at Mt. Nebo

Nebo Loop Scenic Drive Nephi Utah Mt Nebo

It's great to be alive!

Nebo Loop Scenic Drive Nephi Utah Mt Nebo

The bikes roar off, and then silence.

Nebo Loop Scenic Drive Nephi Utah Mt Nebo

Nebo Scenic Loop Drive.

Cedar City Utah Balloon Festival

Cedar City Balloon Festival

Cedar City Bike Path

Bike path in Cedar City, UT

Cedar City Utah sunset

Sunset at Cedar City, UT

Logan Pass, Bear Lake, Mt. Nebo, & Cedar City, Utah

Mid-September, 2009 - We left Helmville, Montana and turned south,

with the ultimate destination of Las Vegas in mind.  On our way we

passed many wonderful sights.  First was the surprise of finding

ourselves in the Valley of a Thousand Haystacks.  All across the country

we have seen one farm field after another strewn with hay bales, and at

our friend Carl's ranch in Montana I had sat in a modern hay baler.  This

amazing machine transforms growing grasses into perfectly tied hay

bales, all at the push of a button.  As the driver sits in air conditioned

comfort, the electronic readout keeps him posted on the progress of each

bale as it is tied and wrapped and dropped off in the wake of the vehicle.

So I had forgotten that hay used to be stored in haystacks.  Yet here they

were, for miles, huge haystacks on either side of the road.

North of Salt

Lake City, Utah, we took a detour and packed a picnic for the gorgeous

scenic drive that crosses Logan Pass to Bear Lake.  This winding road

passes between towering, craggy cliffs.

Near the summit we hiked the short Limber Pine Nature Trail.

Following a soft path of pine needles, we came across a very old tree.

The sign at the start of the trail (and in the brochures of the area)

claimed this tree was 2,560 yeras old.  The trunk was thick and gnarled

and inviting, so we climbed up.  But the sign in front of the tree said it

was just 560 years old.  The sign hadn't simply lost a "2."  It was

actually printed that way.

Well, whether it germinated

during the rise of ancient Greece

or some 2,000 years later during the burgeoning the

Renaissance, it was a stately tree.

This hike gave us the first glimpse of Utah's

"Caribbean," the shores of Bear Lake.   Descending

on the road, the view of the lake expanded.

The water was a pretty shade, and there were boats

of all kinds bobbing in the marina.

As we crossed the Cache Valley on our return, we saw many farm

stands selling fresh raspberries.  What fun to stop and sample different

varieties.  One type was softer and sweeter, and another was lighter in color and firmer.

We thought we were being indulgent when we bought a large box, but the lady behind us

bought an entire flat!

Further south, we stopped for a few days in

Nephi, Utah and drove the scenic Mt. Nebo Loop.

This forty mile drive took us on another beautiful

winding road into the mountains.  Back in the land

of red rocks, we walked out into Devil's Kitchen, a

small gathering of bright orange hoodoos that

looks like it was lifted out of Bryce Canyon.

It was a Sunday, and when we pulled into the

large Mt. Nebo lookout area we could barely find

a place to park because it was teeming with

motorcycles.  A local motorcycle club was out on

a Sunday drive and they were taking a breather at this

stunning stop.  We wandered among the bikes and

chatted with the riders.  Riding a bike seemed to be the

best way to do this loop.  We saw a

cyclist too, but getting from 6,000 feet

at one end of this drive to over 9,000

feet in the middle seemed really

challenging, and the descents were

narrow and twisting.

Continuing our trek towards Las

Vegas, we stopped briefly in Cedar

City ("Festival City") as well.  We had

fallen in love with this town the

previous year when we arrived just in

time for the Western Rodeo Days

(see our experiences at What's it

Like?).  We missed that this year but

got to see some of the Balloon

Festival instead.

We took our bikes out on the paved

bike path and descended down into

the expansive farmlands where flat

roads wander between farm fields

seemingly forever.

A pretty sunset over the

strange lighthouse that

marks the southern end of

Cedar City capped off a nice,

though brief, jaunt down I-15

in Utah.  Las Vegas hung

just over the horizon.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lake Michigan – Charming coastal towns

Saugatuck Michigan Chain Ferry

Saugatuck Chain Ferry

Saugatuck Michigan Chain Ferry

Hand-cranking the ferry

Saugatuck Michigan shops

Saugatuck Main Street

Saugatuck Michigan shops Saugatuck Michigan shops Mt. Baldhead Saugatuck Michigan

282 steps to the top

Mt. Baldhead Saugatuck Michigan

Looking down at Saugatuck

Grand Haven Michigan

Grand Haven, MI

Grand Haven Michigan Higgins Lake campground Michigan

Higgins Lake

Higgins Lake campground Michigan

Behind the ice cream shop is a secret path...

Higgins Lake campground Michigan

Higgins Lake

Bay Breeze Yacht Charters Travers City Michigan

Bay Breeze Yacht Charters

Bay Breeze Yacht Charters Travers City Michigan

Free sailing!

Chateau Chantal vineyard Traverse City Michigan

Chateau Chantal vineyard

Old Mission Lighthouse Michigan

Old Mission Lighthouse

Old Mission Peninsula Michigan Old Mission Peninsula Michigan boat Pyramid Point Michigan Hike

Pyramid Point Hike

Pyramid Point Michigan Hike Sleeping Bear Dunes National Park

Birch tree -- not aspen

Pyramid Point, Sleeping Bear Dunes National Park. Michigan

Pyramid Point, Sleeping Bear Dunes National Park.

Pyramid Point, Sleeping Bear Dunes National Park. Michigan Iris farm Michigan Iris farm Michigan Iris farm Michigan

Saugatuck, Higgins Lake & Traverse City

Early June, 2009 - We left South Haven, Michigan and drove a little

further up the coast to Saugatuck, another utterly charming town along

the the state's southern Lake Michigan coast.  At the far end of town

we discovered the hand-cranked Saugatuck Chain Ferry which takes

passengers across the river.  As we stood at the little ferry dock

marveling at this contraption, a mom, dad and daughter on bikes

appeared on the other side of the river.  They started waving their

hands excitedly, the little girl especially.  Suddenly the two young boys

on the chain ferry leaped into action.

One boy managed the lines while the other manned the hand-cranking

station.  He cranked the lever round and round, and slowly the ferry

began to move along its chain.  The current is quite strong in the

middle of the river, and it made sense to put this hand-powered ferry

on a chain system so it couldn't drift downstream faster than it could be

cranked across.  The family on the other side happily loaded their

bikes onto the ferry and the boys switched roles for the return trip.

The town has a lovely main street

for walking and window shopping.

We found many pretty flower

displays along the storefronts as

we walked.  We wished we had our

bikes so we could venture a little

further from the center of town.

However, being bikeless, at least

this pretty flower basket bike was

nice to photograph.

On the far side of the river, where

the family of bicyclists had flagged

down the ferry, Mount Baldhead

has  282 stairs leading to the top.

Lots of people seem to climb this

staircase as a workout -- at

different paces.  Mark pumped

his way to the top at a steady

trot, while I gave myself a few

breathers near the end.

After admiring the view at the

top, we ran down the sand path

on the other side to Oval Beach

for a quick peak at the lake.

Then we got our heart rates

going again as we staggered up

the sand path to the top.

Sweaty and grinning, I started

down the stairs to the car.  I

hadn't gone 12 stairs when I

met a 79-year-old woman

coming up.  She had stopped to

catch her breath, and as she

wiped her brow she told me she

climbs this stairway once a year.

We got back in the car and started making our way north again.  On a

small road that wound through the backs of some pretty neighborhoods

we saw a commotion ahead of us in someone's front yard.  Kids and

bikes were everywhere and a small pen was set up in the yard.  We got

out of the car to see what the fuss was about and discovered a family

was selling a litter of six adorable Golden Retriever pups.  Hardly any

were in the pen; all were in the arms of the neighborhood kids.  The

momma retriever stood to one side looking very proud and rather

exhausted.  Mark finally got a chance to hold a pup, and he was in

heaven.  If we weren't living a traveling lifestyle, he would have been the

proud owner of a new puppy that day.

A little further up the road we stopped in Grand Haven, another small town that has grown

up along the shores of Lake Michigan.  An ice cream cone and a stroll around town, and

we were happy tourists.

We returned to Detroit for a week or so to catch

up with family again.  Then we got the itch to

see more of Michigan and set out for the

northern reaches of the state.  Our first stop

was Higgins Lake, Mark's family's old stomping

grounds when they camped with a myriad of

cousins and aunts and uncles in large family

caravans years ago.  The little Shasta sister-

trailer we had seen in Elkhart had hosted many

a family campfire at Higgins Lake.

Mark remembered the rangers at

this campground as being quite

cranky, and sure enough they

wouldn't allow us to drive through

the campground to take a look

around unless we paid for a night's stay.  As teens, Mark and his friends

had referred to the ranger there as "Ranger Danger," and had done

dastardly things like played very loud Led Zeppelin from their oversized

car stereo systems, blasting everyone out of the campground.  Now, of

course, whenever rowdy teens disturb our serene camping spots, I have

to remind him that it is simply payback time.

But our mission of the moment

was to get into the Higgins Lake

campground just long enough to get a good nostalgic

look around.  Mark drove past the campground entrance

to the old ice cream stand that he and his cousins had

walked to every day, and sure enough, the little path he

remembered still led into the campground out of sight of

the main entrance.  We snuck down the path and got

our trip down memory lane despite Ranger Danger.

Mark's dad had always rented a big party barge during

their stays on the lake, and as we looked out on all the

happy boaters, the many family slideshows we'd been

watching over the past few weeks suddenly came to life.

Continuing north across the state, we spent some time

in Traverse City.  This charming area was feeling the pinch from the bad

economy and we stayed in a motel that had posted a sign saying: "We're

almost giving rooms away," which they were.  As we drove along the

shorefront of this very pretty town, we heard

advertisements for a boat show.  Who could pass that up?

So off we went to see what a Great Lakes boat show might

be like.

Bay Breeze Yacht Charters was the center of attention.

The business had been recently acquired by Dave and

Kristin who had Michigan roots but had just spent 14 years

in the Caribbean bareboat yacht charter business.  "Your

brain turns to mush after that long in the Caribbean," Dave

said, so they had returned to Michigan to shovel a little

snow and sharpen up a bit.  They were offering free sails

on the bay for the boat show and needed two more people

before they pushed off -- so we hopped on.  What fun to

be out sailing again!  As we hung around on the boat for a

while afterwards, all the thoughts about our sailing

dreams that we'd been

avoiding for the past month

suddenly flooded back.

Hmmm.

Early next morning we drove

out along the Mission

Peninsula on beautiful winding

roads past farms and orchards

and vineyards.  Chateau

Chantal is perched high up with

views past their vineyard to

distant farmlands that roll down

to the bay on the horizon.

At the end of the peninsula we walked around the Old Mission

Lighthouse and swished our fingers in the waters of the lake.

It was a glorious morning, and we must have said 50 times to each

other: "this would be a perfect place to ride a bike."  Sure enough,

before long, we came across a group of cyclists out for a morning ride

along those wonderful sweeping roads.  We followed them down a tiny

road that led out to the bay and watched the scenery unfold next to us

as we returned back towards Traverse City.

Every home had a boat dock across the

street, and boats of all shapes and sizes

were ready to take passengers out for a

ride on the lake.

Dave and Kristin of Bay Breeze had

recommended we drive straight west to

the open shore of Lake Michigan and

hike out to Pyramid Point in the Sleeping

Bear Dunes.  The hike took us through

some lush forest.

We noticed birch trees -- not our familiar

aspens -- along the trail.

At the end the

trail opened

up to a commanding view of Lake

Michigan.

The water was clear and turquoise,

shading to a rich blue a little further

out capped off by some low islands in

the distance.

We drove along the rural roads that

looped back towards Traverse City.

Suddenly a colorful palette of flowers

appeared, and we stopped for a closer

look.

It was an iris farm, and the

irises were in stunning bloom.

The farm had planted varieties

in every possible shade and

color combination.

We roamed along the rows of

flowers for an hour, stepping

gingerly between them.

Looking around at the many

hues, I felt like I was in the

middle of a Monet painting.

A second night in the

motel where they were "almost

giving rooms away," and we

were ready to go to further

north in search of more scenic

waterfront villages along

Northern Lake Michigan.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

South Haven – Harbor Village

South Haven Michigan

South Haven's beautiful waterfront

South Haven Michigan

South Haven Harbor

Mark gets a quickie haircut

South Haven Michigan

South Haven's riverfront

South Haven Michigan beach

Fun on the beach

South Haven Michigan kayaking

A kayaker tests the waters

South Haven Michigan

Funky raised boardwalk in town

South Haven Michigan lighthouse South Haven Michigan drawbridge

Drawbridge to the inner harbor

Catching ducks - on film

Twilight over South Haven Harbor

Pirate ship ghosts past the lighthouse

South Haven Michigan lighthouse

Lovers watch the sunset

South Haven Michigan car show

Cool cars cruise the beach

South Haven Michigan lighthouse South Haven Michigan lighthouse

Wedding photos

South Haven Michigan lighthouse South Haven Michigan lighthouse South Haven Michigan lighthouse South Haven Michigan car show

I'll take it!

South Haven Michigan car show

Mark would prefer this one

South Haven Michigan car show South Haven Michigan car show

Dad at the wheel -- just this one time.

South Haven Michigan car show

South Haven, Michigan

Early June, 2009 - We left Elkhart, Indiana and started up the west

coast of Michigan.  We were in search of cute little waterfront towns, and

there is an abundance along Lake Michigan, each unique and

welcoming.  The first was South Haven.  The town straddles a small

harbor and a river channel lined with a pretty boardwalk leading down to

a small lighthouse.  We walked through town, admiring the small shops

and catching glimpses of the boats in the harbor.

Mark needed a haircut, so we turned in at the barber pole and he

got a quick clip.  With his new summer do making him feel lighter

and freer, we headed out to stroll along the riverfront.

Boats of all kinds were cruising in and out of the harbor, and as we

approached the pier we found there were two terrific beaches on either

side of the channel entrance.

We kicked our shoes off to feel the Michigan sand squeeze

between our toes, and watched the action on the beach.

Teenagers were strutting their stuff all around us, with babes in

bikinis perfecting their runway walks up and down the pier.

Back in town, we found a fun and funky wooden walkway

that climbed up and down and around the harborfront

shops.

There were little

eateries everywhere,

and a drawbridge

leading to the inner

harbor.

Big boats and small

boats maneuvered around each other,

and a young girl in a dinghy followed a

family of ducks trying to catch them

with her camera.

We found a small motel on the edge of

town, and when we commented on the

charm of this town she said, "Well, you

have to go down to the waterfront at

sunset.  Don't miss it.  The sun sets at

about 9:30, so get there

about an hour before and

you'll have plenty of time."

We've seen such stunning sunsets in the southwest, just

peering out our trailer's windows, that her insistence that

we go back to town and down to the beach for the sunset

that night struck me as kind of amusing.  The sky didn't

look especially promising for any kind of colorful display,

but we followed her advice anyway and returned to town

as the sun was slipping towards the lake.

What a spectacle awaited us.  We began walking towards the pier and

found ourselves surrounded by throngs of people heading down to the

beach to watch the sunset: young couples hand-in-hand; families with

kids romping around in excited circles; old folks with a hand on the

railing.  Everyone in town was making their way to the waterfront.

A restored pirate ship that had been

taking people out on lake rides all day

had one last sunset dinner cruise on

tap, and we watched her stately form

slip past the lighthouse in the dimming

light.

Some people spread out on picnic blankets, and

others just enjoyed the quiet moments as the sun

worked its magic.  Every swing and slide in the

playground was in motion with kids crawling all

over, and behind them the cars cruised up and

down and round and round the streets.

There was a car show scheduled for the next day,

and quite a few antique convertibles

showed up early as their proud owners

cruised the beach the way they did fifty

years ago.

A newlywed couple posed for

wedding shots along the pier

with the lighthouse in the

background, as the sun sank

lower and lower towards the

lake.

The ice cream stand was a hub of

activity all evening, and the evidence

was everywhere as nearby folks

wandered slightly off kilter down the

pier, head sideways, tongue licking,

while their eyes stared around their cones at the sinking sun.

Photographers of all ages staked out places on the beach to catch the sun slipping into the

water.  None of us cared about the sand filling our shoes as we stomped through the dunes to

get the best angle.  It was a great evening and a great show.

Once the sun had fallen into the distant waves, everyone on the beach quietly packed it up and

headed home.  As we walked back up towards town, surrounded by smiling people carrying

folded blankets and empty coolers, I felt as though we'd just left an outdoor concert.  Nature's

symphony.  The innkeeper had been right: we didn't want to

miss the sunset that night.

The next day was the car show.  Again, the whole town came

out for the event.  The streets were lined with beautifully

restored cars and admiring fans.  Mark's roots from the motor

city sure showed as we wandered from car to car and he

pointed out the finer points of each engine.  A peak under the

hood and he would suddenly ooh and aah and give me a

history of the engine and tell me which of his friends had

owned such a beautiful marvel of engineering back in the day.

To me they were all just shiny cars from another era, alhough I did like

the sporty little red Corvette convertible.  Mark's taste ran more

towards the muscle cars that just looked like plain old sedans to me.

But then he'd drop to his knees and point out the wrinkle wall tires and

tell of the time his friend put a $10 bill on the dash board and challeged

Mark to catch it as they peeled out.  Plastered to the passenger seat as

the rocket launched, there was no way he could reach that bill when it

flew up in the air.

We got talking with a fellow showing off his dragster.  He used to race it himself, but now it was a

father-son project, with him supplying the bucks and know-how and his son taking the wheel at the

races.

At the end of the day there was a parade

through town and we had a chance to see

each car in all its glory.  Some revved their

engines as they went by, although our

buddy in the dragster got a tow through

town instead.  There were prizes of all

kinds, and almost every car won

something.  We left South Haven in high

spirits and made our way north a few miles

to Saugatuck.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

North Lake Michigan – Alluring Coastal Towns

Charlevoix, Michigan

Charlevoix, Michigan...

Charlevoix, Michigan

...flowers and charm

Charlevoix, Michigan Harbor

Charlevoix's Harborfront park

Charlevoix, Michigan fountain

Summertime !!

Charlevoix, Michigan painted park bench

Lighthouses on a park bench

Charlevoix, Michigan lighthouse

Charlevoix Lighthouse

Charlevoix, Michigan lighthouse

A boat waits for the drawbridge to open.

Charlevoix, Michigan lighthouse sailbot

The channel leads from Lake Michigan to Charlevoix

Harbor

Charlevoix, Michigan lighthouse sailboat and drawbridge

The drawbridge lets sailboats pass through.

Charlevoix, Michigan beach

The town sports a beachside playground.

Lake Michigan's clear water

Lake Michigan's clear water: turquoise and inviting.

Lilacs were in bloom.

Petunia beds escorted us out of town for miles.

Harbor Springs, a sparkling gem on Lake Michigan

Harbor Springs, a sparkling gem on Lake Michigan

Harbor Springs, Lake Michigan Harbor Springs, Lake Michigan sailing lessons

Local kids drop their bikes and bags to take sailing lessons.

Harbor Springs, Lake Michigan sailing lessons Harbor Springs, Lake Michigan wooden boat

Beautiful wooden boats were everywhere.

Harbor Springs, Lake Michigan wooden boat

Harbor Springs' waterfront park

Harbor Springs, Lake Michigan

Have a seat and stay a while...

Harbor Springs, Lake Michigan Harbor Springs, Lake Michigan

Large equestrian estates fringe Harbor Springs.

The Tunnel of Trees scenic drive Michigan

The Tunnel of Trees

Macinaw City, Gateway to Macinac Island.

Macinaw City, Gateway to Macinac Island.

Charlevoix, Harbor Springs & The Tunnel of Trees

Mid-June, 2009 - We continued our tour along the beautiful Lake Michigan coast, leaving

Traverse City and making our way to Charlevoix.  I was amazed at how many quaint,

peaceful and picturesque villages perch along these shores.  Charlevoix has a lovely park

along the harbor in the center of town, and it was lined with bright petunias in beds along

the ground and in hanging flower baskets.

A small stretch of grass leads to a small marina,

and we walked along the docks soaking up the sun

and talking to whatever boat owners we could find.

There is an outdoor concert pavilion as well, and we

could imagine many a balmy summer night sitting

there listening to music.

Some kids were making the most of the park's fountains, trying to

stomp out the various spigots of water as they shot up and then

clustering around the big fountain.  I could sympathize with the little girl

on the edge who was freezing.

There is a

sense of

whimsy in this

town, and one

park bench is

adorned with

colorful

paintings of

Lake

Michigan's

lighthouses.

We found the

Charlevoix

lighthouse at

the end of a

very long

channel that

leads from the open lake waters to the tiny inner harbor.  It was a perfect

day for strolling along the channel's boardwalk and, as we walked, a few

sailboats made their way in and out of the harbor.

A drawbridge separates the channel from the inner harbor, and when it is

scheduled to open all the sailboats scurry to get through.

At the end of

the channel

there is a town

beach with a

playground.  I

could easily

imagine many

happy summer

days spent

here.

Everywhere we

went I was startled by the clarity of the water.  Lake Michigan's water is

turquoise, much like the Caribbean, and is extremely clear.

Lilacs were in bloom.  They are one of my favorite spring flowers, and

they had already faded down south around Detroit.  We both buried are

noses in their fragrant clusters.

All of these

towns were

places where

we could have

easily stayed

for the

summer, but

we pushed

north on our

tour.  The

charming, whimsical air of Charlevoix stayed with us for a long time.  The

road out of town was lined on both sides with beautiful petunia beds.  It

made for a lovely drive.  After watching this continuous flower bed escort

us for at least three miles, I just shook my head in amazement.  That's a

lot of flowers.  This town is truly loved by its residents.

The next stop was Harbor Springs, a tiny village on the

water's edge.  It is an upscale town that boasts some

beautiful Victorian homes that were meticulously

maintained.

We arrived just as the

kids were running down

from the yacht club to

prepare their little

sailboats for sailing

lessons.

The area was lined with bikes and backpacks, and the

kids made quick work of getting the sails up and getting

the boats off the dock.  What a priceless, fun filled

summer lay ahead for those kids.

One thing we had noticed in every harbor in our travels was the large

numbers of wooden boats, all in beautiful condition.  Harbor Springs was

no exception, and this boat really turned our heads.  The woodwork was

pristine, with shiny varnish that was deep and lustrous.

We didn't realize until a few days later that one of the nation's three

major wooden boat schools was just a hundred miles north in the

Upper Peninsula.  No wonder the many gorgeous wooden boats here

in Harbor Springs were so beautifully crafted and maintained.  There

was plenty of skill and knowledge about wooden boats in the area.

Like so many other waterfront villages along this coast, Harbor Springs has a pretty park

overlooking the bay.  Yet again we felt we could stop and spend the rest of the summer right

here in blissful tranquility.

This town is very posh, and not only do

the fortunate residents spend time on

their boats, but they also enjoy

equestrian entertainment, tennis and

other country club pursuits during their

leisure time.

We passed some beautiful country

estates on the way out of town.  In many

ways it felt like we had just spent a few

hours observing a way of life that may

be fast disappearing in this oh-so-busy

workaday world of ours.  It felt like a

gentleman's town from

another era, especially with

so many stunning wooden

boats dating back to the mid

1900's.

Route 119 leading out of

town is one of Michigan's

scenic byways called the

Tunnel of Trees.  For an

hour we drove along

through this winding,

green one-lane tunnel,

weaving our way under a

thick green canopy of

leaves.  Occasionally there were glimpses of the lake on our left or of small log cabins tucked

back into the woods on our right, but for the most part it was a curvy, narrow road, encased in

tree limbs.

At first the trees

were all deciduous,

but as we drove we

came across a few

clusters of skinny

pines.  Some historic plaques explained a little about the

area.  One spot, Devil's Elbow, had been a spring in a

ravine where the Indians believed local spirits made their

presence known in the wee hours of the night.  Another,

L'Arbre Croche, was the name the French gave to this

whole Tunnel of Trees region, so named because of a

huge crooked tree that towered above everything.

We emerged into daylight and made our way towards Macinaw City, the northernmost point of Michigan's mittened southern

peninsula.  It is the "Gateway to Macinac Island," the famed island where only foot and bicycle traffic are allowed.  However, we

took the other road and headed over the Macinaw Bridge to Michigan's Upper Peninsula instead.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Lake St. Clair, Michigan – Quick Trip Abroad

Big Boy in Detroit Michigan

Big Boys are everywhere...

Coney Island hot dogs in Detroit Michigan

...Coney Island Hot Dogs are too

Despite the depressing news on TV, Spring had sprung on Belle Isle in downtown Detroit

Harsen's Island ferry Detroit Michigan

Harsen's Island Ferry holds 9 or so cars

Harsen's Island Detroit Michigan Harsen's Island Detroit Michigan Harsen's Island Detroit Michigan Harsen's Island Detroit Michigan - swan Harsen's Island Detroit Michigan

B&B in San Souci

Harsen's Island Detroit Michigan

Riverside Grocery

Harsen's Island Detroit Michigan

Storefront in San Souci

Smoke stacks on the Canadian side of the St. Clair River

Pretty homes along the river too...

Port Huron Michigan

Pt. Huron, Michigan (US) - Sarnia, Ontario (Canada)

Bridge

Mark buys us a basket of Bridge Fries - tasty!

Lake Erie coast of Canada

Classic red barns dot the landscape

Farm stand Lake Erie coast of Canada

Roadside farm stand on Lake Erie

Farm stand Lake Erie coast of Canada

Score!  Baked goods galore and veggie garden

treasures too.

Gobi fish trapping on Lake Erie

Trapping invasive Gobi fish for experimentation at the

University.

Lake Erie shore Canada

Lake Erie

Lake Erie harborfront Canada

Lake Erie harborfront

Windsor Canada

Returning to Detroit via Windsor

Lake St. Clair, Michigan

Late May, 2009 - We arrived from the Burbank, California airport to a wonderful, warm family

reception in Detroit, Michigan.  Mark hadn't lived there in 30 years, and since then had made

only short visits, so we had many great get-togethers ahead of us.  In between, we wanted to

squeeze in some sight-seeing, as I had never seen much of Michigan, and Mark's motorcycle

trips around the state were back in the days when he had long hair, short shorts, and Rock

hadn't yet been labeled "Classic."

We arrived in Detroit at an especially dark hour in the city's

history.  Chrysler was in bankruptcy, GM was headed that

way soon, and most people we visited were out of work.

Unfortunately, I forgot my camera as we toured some of the

amazing mansions that were built by the auto industry's

icons in the days when their profits flowed like wine.  The

sultans of that industry lived better than kings.  The opulence was breathtaking.  I could only

wonder what the factory workers thought in the early 1900's as they saw these castle-like

estates going up.  No wonder the unions became so strong: the profits were staggering and

the leaders weren't into sharing.

The auto industry was a cash cow that kept giving and giving and giving, for decades.  Eventually everyone had a piece of the pie,

and as the news anchors droned on about the industry's current woes, like the retirees losing their vision and dental benefits

(gasp!), we heard a few back stories about Generous Motors that flushed out the details.  From more than one person we learned

how folks on the line used to punch in at work, head to the bar for the day, and then punch out.  Or punch in, find a quiet spot to

sleep through their shift, and then punch out.  The party lasted for almost a century.  I couldn't help but wonder: how would the

founders of those companies feel if they saw their city today?  Where would their industry be now if those early leaders had instilled

a culture of productivity, cooperation and true generosity instead of one based on greed?

The story of Detroit's malaise filled the airwaves each night.  A mansion

that had sold in recent years for $15 million got auctioned off during our

visit for less than $5 million.  Half of the gorgeous estates we drove past

along the Grosse Pointe waterfront were for sale.  The once

unstoppable flow of profits had dried up.

Eager for some

pretty scenery, we

drove a circle loop

around Lake St.

Clair, the Detroit area

lake that sits between

Lake Huron to the

north and Lake Erie

to the south, dividing

its shores between

the US and Canada.

Harsen's Island was

our first stop, and we drove onto the ferry for the 10 minute ride to the

island.  Harsen's island is very rural at one end, with graceful homes

spread out along the lake.

At the other end, the village of San

Souci beckons visitors with charming

victorian B&B's, cute shops and a laid

back air.

We stopped at the Riverside Grocery

for lunch, watching some kids rolling by

on their bikes and a pair of young

lovers sitting side

by side gazing at

the boats in the

water.  This

seemed a perfect

place for languid

summer afternoons.

A little further up the coast we

walked around Marine City and

watched another ferry boat carrying

people across the river to and from

Canada.  We heard later that this is

the best place to cross the border,

as the lines are short.  Along the

river, both the Canadian side and US side have stretches

of gracious homes mixed with stretches of heavy

industry.

After spending some time on both sides of this river, it

seemed that there is a strong unity that bonds the people of this region, regardless of the

presence of an international border between them.  We saw homes flying both countries' flags

off their porches, and we saw posters with both flags crossed and the words: "United we

stand."  So it was odd, and sad, to see several US border patrol cars sitting on the US side

facing Canada.  We are accustomed to seeing them in southern California and Arizona, but

here they seemed out of

place.

Up in Port Huron we took

the bridge across to

Canada's small city of

Sarnia, Ontario.  The

lady at the visitors center

suggested we get some

Bridge Fries from one of

the vendors under the

bridge.  Served Canadian

style with vinegar, we found

her recommendation was

right on.  Yum!

Heading down the Canadian side of the St.

Clair River we felt ourselves relaxing.  The

homes are nicely spread out.  We stopped

at Bogey's Inn near the village of Sombra

for the night and ended up in their largest

suite for their regular motel room rate.  "Last

year at this time I was booked solid," the

proprietor said with frustration.  The night

we stayed we were the only tourists there.

We veered away from Lake St. Clair the next morning to catch a glimpse of Lake Erie.  The fertile

farmlands stretched for miles with classic red barns and homesteads dotting the green vistas.

Suddenly the beautiful shores of Lake Erie opened up before us.  The lake was turquoise and clear,

and the homes were perched high above the lake with rolling grass lawns stretching down to the water.

We stopped at a farm stand, thinking we'd grab some apples to snack on.  As

we approached, the luscious aroma of baked goodies wafted through the

door.  We stepped inside and were suddenly surrounded by pies, buns,

breads, cookies and the like -- along with fresh picked healthy veggies.  At

the sight of those pies Mark was in heaven.  "Wow!  I'm going to get one of

everything," he joked with the lady at the counter as his eyes darted from

table to table.  I wandered around looking for the one perfect snack, admiring

the rows of maple syrups and jams while I mulled over getting a muffin or a

scone or a mini sweet loaf.  When I walked over to the register with my lone

apple bran muffin, there was Mark with "one of everything" -- and two of

several things -- laid out across the counter in front of him.  He grinned at me

sheepishly and shrugged.  How often do you find a gold mine like this?

We piled our boatload of baked goods into the car and had a small

feast of pies and cookies while overlooking the lake's crystal waters

across the street.  There was an opening that led to the water, and we

wandered down to dip our toes in the lake.  Some University students

were trapping Gobi fish, an invasive non-native fish that they want to

remove from the lake.  They were

taking the Gobies back to the lab to

try to find some natural deterrent to

limit the spread of this unwanted

fish.  Unfortunately, though, the

Gobi's were proving especially

tricky to trap.

We stopped in a small harbor town

to stretch our legs, and continued

our slow journey back towards Windsor, Ontario and the

Detroit River.  Faced with another border crossing back to

Detroit, and not sure exactly what the rules were regarding

baked goods crossing the border, we stopped and gobbled

down as many of our remaining pies and pastries as we

could.  The strawberry-rhubarb pie was out of this world, and

we each slyly unbuttoned the top button on our pants to

make room for more.  But even stuffed to the gills, we still

had some pastries and pies to go.  We just had to risk losing

our booty the border.  Of course, in the end, although every

car in line at the border had its spare tire removed and

inspected, causing an hours-long traffic jam at the tunnel, no

one asked if we were bringing in any contraband pies.

After a few more days of family gatherings, we headed out

on a slightly longer sojourn into Ohio and Indiana.