Valley of Fire, NV – Sweeping Vistas

October, 2007 - Valley of Fire State Park outside Las Vegas is gorgeous with a stunning road that snakes past all kinds of exotic red rock formations.
Valley of Fire State Park, Las Vegas, Nevada Seven Sisters at Valley of Fire State Park, Las Vegas, Nevada Atlatl Rock petroglyphs at Valley of Fire State Park, Las Vegas, Nevada Valley of Fire State Park, Las Vegas, Nevada Petroglyphs on Atlatl Rock at Valley of Fire State Park, Las Vegas, Nevada Petroglyphs on Atlatl Rock at Valley of Fire State Park, Las Vegas, Nevada Bat flying in the night at Valley of Fire State Park, Las Vegas, Nevada Campground at Valley of Fire State Park, Las Vegas, Nevada Sunrise at Valley of Fire State Park, Las Vegas, Nevada Sunrise at Valley of Fire State Park, Las Vegas, Nevada Raptor at Valley of Fire State Park, Las Vegas, Nevada Sunrise at Atlat Campground Valley of Fire State Park, Las Vegas, Nevada White Dome Hike

Fire Canyon Overlook

White Dome Hike Valley of Fire State Park, Las Vegas, Nevada Valley of Fire State Park, Las Vegas, Nevada Valley of Fire State Park, Las Vegas, Nevada Valley of Fire State Park, Las Vegas, Nevada

Valley of Fire, Nevada

October 20-27, 2007 - Leaving southern Utah, we dropped into Nevada

and spent a week in Valley of Fire State Park.  This park is truly on fire.

We first saw the redrocks as we crested a hill, and looking down at the

valley before us we saw all shades of red and orange.  The road through

the park is ideal for cycling, and we rode to the end and back several

times.  As you climb through craggy redrocks and fly through twisting

descents it is hard to keep your eyes on the road as there are new

spectacular sights at every turn.

The park features a wall filled with petroglyphs.

They are high up on a cliff, and tourists can

climb the long staircase to get a close look.  I

couldn't decipher anything in the tale that is told

on that wall, however a scientist has uncovered

the full coming-of-age hunting story that is

depicted there.  Looking out over the valley from the viewing platform it is hard to

imagine how the ancients managed to get their artwork onto that rock face.  There is a

slippery and narrow rock shelf they might have stood on, but most of the images are still

far out of human reach.

We found a cozy spot to park up against the redrock cliffs.  In the

evenings we watched the bats chase the bugs around the restrooms.

After many attempts, Mark caught one mid-flight.

One morning we peeked out the trailer to see a stunning sunrise in

action.  We leapt out of bed and grabbed the cameras, clicking

away as the sky flamed from deep orange to soft peach hues.

A raptor enjoyed the same

sunrise, studying the

surroundings as he

searched for breakfast.

We enjoyed two hikes in

the park.  The White Dome

hike took us past the old

1966 movie set from "The

Professionals."  Not much

remains from the set, but

we scratched our heads for

a long time trying to

imagine how all the movie-

related paraphernalis was

hauled down into that

canyon.

What remains now is

lots of tall rock

formations and soft

sand.  Small scrub

plants grow out of the

sand, a seemingly

impossible feat.

Little creatures leave

their tracks all through

the sand.  Some tracks

are clearly bird prints, hopping with paired feet

across the sand.  Others are less easy to identify

-- until you find the creature responsible and see that drags his

tail as he moves.

On our way out of the park we saw a redrock snowman...  Leaving Valley of Fire State Park we continued south and

a little west, dropping into Death Valley National Park in California.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Goblin Valley, UT – Where the Ghosts Are

Goblin Valley, Utah The Greeters at Goblin Valley, Utah Campground at Goblin Valley, Utah Campground at Goblin Valley, Utah Dribble castles make up the rock formations at Goblin Valley, Utah Goblin Valley, Utah Goblin Valley, Utah Goblin Valley, Utah Goblin Valley, Utah Goblin Valley, Utah

Sea turtle

Goblin Valley, Utah

Mushroom

Goblin Valley, Utah

Gorilla head

Goblin Valley, Utah

Space ship taking off

Goblin Valley, Utah

Ducks

Little Wild Horse Canyon, Utah Little Wild Horse Canyon, Utah Little Wild Horse Canyon, Utah Little Wild Horse Canyon, Utah Little Wild Horse Canyon, Utah Little Wild Horse Canyon, Utah

Goblin Valley & Little Wild Horse Canyon, Utah

October 1-6, 2007 - Continuing south from the San Rafael Swell, we

stopped in at Goblin Valley, Utah.  This state park is a gem.  As you

arrive you are welcomed by a trio of goblins who stand apart from the

valley, greeting visitors with otherworldly expressions.  Beyond them an

enormous formation dominates the flat horizon, looking like a bright red

gothic cathedral.

The campground is nestled into the buttresses of the redrock

cathedral, with shade ramadas at each site.

The rock formations are very tall and imposing, but when you walk up

close to them you discover that much of their structure is like a sand

dribble castle kids make at the beach.  The sandstone is literally

dripping down the sides of the formation and it is very delicate to the

touch.  Tap it lightly and it sounds hollow.  Touch it any more forcefully

and it breaks off.

We wandered

down into the

actual Valley of

the Goblins, a

fantastic open area of redrock formations that look like creatures.  We

learned that these formations evolve in the same way as the arches do

at Arches National Park, but in this neck of the woods the result is

goblins instead of arches.

You are allowed to climb on the goblins, and they stand two to three

times human height, making a great climbing playground.  As we

walked down into the valley a little kid rocketed past us yelling, "This is

heaven!"

Many of the formations are recognizable shapes....

One day we hiked

the Little Wild Horse Slot Canyon.  This is

an 8 mile hike but only about an hour of it is

spent in the slot canyon.  The slot canyon

was very narrow.  At times the gravel path

was wide enough for just one foot at a time.

But it wasn't scary at all.

The canyon is wide open to the sky

above, and the narrow portions last

only a few feet.   Don't hike these

things when rain threatens, because

the water gushes through.  After a

rain it takes a few days for the water

in the slot canyon to subside.

Feeling a chill in the air in Goblin Valley, we made our way towards southern

Utah along the incomparable Scenic Route 12, stopping first at Kodachrome

Basin and then riding our bikes through Zion National Park.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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San Rafael Swell, UT – Pictographs & Dinosaur Prints

San Rafael Swell, Utah San Rafael Swell, Utah Pictographs, San Rafael Swell, Utah Pictographs, San Rafael Swell, Utah Pictographs, San Rafael Swell, Utah Petroglyphs, San Rafael Swell, Utah Petroglyphs, San Rafael Swell, Utah Dinosaur footprint fossil, San Rafael Swell, Utah Burros on Jackass Flats, San Rafael Swell, Utah Burros on Jackass Flats San Rafael Swell, Utah Spotted Wolf Pass, Utah Spotted Wolf Pass, Utah

San Rafael Swell, Utah

September 25-30, 2007 - We rushed south to get away from the snow

and cold in Park City and found the perfect temperatures in the Green

River area.  The San Rafael Swell is a vast area of redrocks and desert

brush that we explored for several days.  The rock cliffs are enormous.

We found rock faces that sported pictographs painted by ancient

peoples 2000 years ago.  Pictographs are made using some kind of

paint on the rock, but it impregnates the rock face enough to last over

thousands of years.  It may have been made using saliva or blood.

The images were mystical.  The people were tall and thin with

garments that reached to the ground.  It was hard to tell what they

were doing, but in one image all the people had holes pecked in their

chests.  Apparently the holes were pecked deliberately, though

researchers don't know what they represented.

We also found petroglyphs chiseled in the rocks by ancient peoples

1000 years ago.  The images were a little more real-life.  Elk and big

horn sheep were easy to distinguish.

One image was a little mystifying,

however:  the figure had four

fingers, three toes, antennae and

either a tail or a shield in the other

hand.  There is graffiti around

many of these rock images, and

the poor quality of the modern rock

doodles makes it clear that the

rock artists spent some time and

had some skill in making these

images last.

Further on we found a dinosaur

track (the guidebook helped us

find it!).  Whatever type of

dinosaur it belonged to was very good sized.  Mark's hand

disappeared into the footprint.

We drove through an area called "Jackass Flats" and, sure

enough, we saw three burros nibbling the grass.  They came right

over to us to check us out.  Eventually they decided we weren't all

that interesting, and they wandered off.

Back out on I-70 we stopped at the north end of Spotted Wolf

Pass.  It took 13 years to build this portion of I-70 through the

rock cliffs.  It takes five minutes to drive through it.

From there we dropped down to Goblin Valley, Utah.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Devil’s Tower, WY – Remember “Close Encounters of the Third Kind” ??

The Lakota called it "Bear's

Lodge"

Rock climbers scale the facets of Devils Tower.

Devils Tower, Wyoming

September 13, 2007 - Every since I saw the movie "Close Encounters

of the Third Kind" I was intrigued by Devils Tower, so when I saw it on

the map in Wyoming as we left the Tetons behind, I told Mark we had

to make the turn.  It is a beautiful drive to get there.  When the rock

showed up in the distance it was quite dramatic.

We learned that the Lakota Indians had a legend about the rock

involving a bear climbing the sides of the rock and Indians defending

the rock from its flat summit.  The bear's claws scraped the rock as he

climbed, making the striped indentations that are there today.  They

called it "Bear's Lodge."

An early American fellow named

Dodge had visited the area and seen

the rock from 20 miles off.  He

apparently mistranslated the Lakota

name for the rock and thought it was

called "Bad Spirit," which is how it

came to be named "Devils Tower."

I was intrigued that Devils Tower in Wyoming looks a lot like Devils

Postpile in California.  But I learned that Devils Postpile heaved

upwards, while Devils Tower got its shape from erosion, and

Devils Postpile consists of basalt while Devils Tower is granite.

One of the greatest charms of this national

monument is the community of prairie dogs

that lives in the fields at the base of the rock.

They bark and play and scamper around to

the total enjoyment of all the tourists.  There

are little entrance holes to their lairs

everywhere.  They were constantly popping

up out of their holes to look around and then

diving back down again.

We had a glorious day

visiting Devils Tower.

We didn't see any

extra-terrestrials but

were enchanted by

the adorable prairie

dogs and the unique

and real stories behind Devils Tower.  Leaving this unique

granite formation behind, we wandered east and south into the

Black Hills of South Dakota.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Flaming Gorge Utah – Vibrant Hues

Flaming Gorge Utah - Green River

Flaming Gorge - Green River

Flaming Gorge National Park Utah

Flaming Gorge National Park

Flaming Gorge National Park Utah

Flaming Gorge

Back side of Park City, Utah in Fall.

Back side of Park City in Fall.

Back side of Park City, Utah in Fall. Back side of Park City, Utah in Fall. Back side of Park City, Utah in Fall. Back side of Park City, Utah in Fall. Back side of Park City, Utah in Fall.

Sunrise over the snowy ski runs -- in September!!

Northern Utah

Leaving northern Utah for warmer places south.

Flaming Gorge National Park & Park City, Utah

September 18-24, 2007 - We left South Dakota's Black Hills and

headed west through Wyoming and south to Utah.  We stopped at

Flaming Gorge National Park, a stunning area of red rock cliffs

overlooking the Green River.  The colors of the rocks and water were

vibrant.

We made our way to Park City, home of the Winter Olympics.  For

the first time we felt the weather pushing us.  When we arrived in

Park City we discovered Fall was in full swing.  The trees were

turning all kinds of gorgeous colors.

We took a drive over the mountain along the back side of Park City

and saw autumn in all her colorful glory.

The weather began to take on the chill of winter, with nights getting

into the 20's.  One morning we watched in amazement as a light rain

became a blizzard in a matter of minutes.  Suddenly the surrounding

mountains were virgin white.  The snow disappeared a few days later,

but we took the hint.  It was time to head south towards central Utah.

Here we discovered the San Rafael Swell, an area just north of

Green River on I-70.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Black Hills, SD – Mt. Rushmore and More

"Wild" Burros roamed around.

Wild turkeys trotted along.

Traffic Jam in Custer State Park

Washington, Jefferson, Roosevelt and Lincoln

George Washington.

Approaching Mt. Rushmore

Crazy Horse

Skinny tunnel at The Needles.

The Needles

September 14-17, 2007 - After watching Devil's Tower retreat in the

distance, we made a brief stop in the Black Hills, visiting Custer State

Park and Mt. Rushmore.  There was lots of wildlife in Custer State

Park.  A group of buffalo took their time crossing the road and caused

quite a traffic tie-up.  The burros were wandering across the road and

lazing in the shade of a tree near the road as well.   Some wild turkeys

caught our eye as they pecked along at the roadside, and a deer

stopped to look at us.

We enjoyed the three dimensional nature of Mt. Rushmore's

famous sculptures of the four presidents as we caught them first

from one side and then from the other.  Another famous sculpture

in the area is of the Indian Crazy Horse.  It was begun shortly after

Mt. Rushmore was completed in the 1940's, but has been funded

solely by private donation, making progress very slow.  The

organization leading its creation has turned down federal funding

several times.

We drove through The Needles.  These granite formations are very

thin and tall, and the road is extremely narrow and twisty.  After we

barely squeaked through a tunnel carved in the rock, we watched

in awe as an experienced tour bus driver expertly took his bus

through the same opening.  His passengers reached out their

windows to touch the rock wall on either side of the bus.

Custer State Park was a real

jewel, and we would have

happily stayed several weeks.

However, the cold weather

was starting to penetrate our

sweaters and jackets and we

had a long way to go to get

back to the warmer climate in

Arizona.  So we headed west

through Wyoming, making

our way to northern Utah, stopping first at Flaming Gorge

National Recreation Area.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Grand Teton National Park, Wyoming – Stunning!

Grand Tetons

Grand Tetons

The Tetons stand watch over Lake Jackson

The mountains seem to rise up out of the lake.

Pronghorn antelope.

Lake Jackson.

Jenny Lake reflects the mountains in her depths.

Grand Teton National Park, WY

September 10-12, 2007 - We drove from Yellowstone south to

Grand Teton National Park.  We were there on magically beautiful

days.  The sky was bright and clear and everywhere we turned

was like a picture postcard.  Apparently the mountains are often

obscured by clouds, so we felt fortunate to see them on days that

were crystal clear.

We drove the Scenic Loop

through the park, and on

our way back we saw a

pronghorn antelope peering

at us through the grass.

Just after we got his picture

he bounded away.

We were starting to feel the press of the coming cold weather, and

we still had a lot we wanted to see before we headed south, so we

made our way eastwards in Wyoming to Devils Tower National

Monument.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Yellowstone National Park, WY – Bubbling Geysers

Algae-filled crystal clear stream.

Professional photographers

come here too!

Old Faithful teases us.

The crowds gather.

There she goes...!

Oh.. oh.. look...

Yellowstone National Park - Mammoth Hot Springs

September 6-10, 2007 -- We drove into the main north entrance to

Yellowstone National Park and arrived at Mammoth Hot Springs.  I

had never thought about how Yellowstone got its name, but when I

saw the colorful mineral deposits surrounding me it was obvious.

Steam billowed into the air from the hot springs and the smell of

sulphur wafted over us in waves.  The minerals solidify into

stairstep formations and drippy solid lumps.

There is a mystical quality to this area.  The water looks passive

and serene, but the mist and steam drifting above the surface

belie something more sinister brewing below.

I saw a fast flowing stream

filled with bright green plant

life.  it was crystal clear and

looked like it must be ice

cold.  Without even

thinking I put my hand in

the water - and yanked it

right out!  The water was

hot hot hot!

There are mazes of

boardwalks throughout

Mammoth Hot Springs,

some passing old defunct

springs and others skirting

pools of steaming mineral

water.  The minerals harden

into all kinds of shapes, from

elaborate staircases to very

tall pinnacles.  Some of the

springs bubble under vast

lakes punctuated by dead

trees.  Up close the

minerals are a kaleidescope

of colors.

In some areas the minerals harden in waves, like a frozen orange

ocean.  In other areas mini-waterfalls dribble minerals over an edge.

At one lookout we found a professional photographer

using a huge format camera under a draped hood.  Our

quickie snapshots of anything and everything around us

seemed amateurish next to his deliberate methodology.

Other areas of the park feature

geysers as well as hot springs.

And no visit to Yellowstone is

complete without a spin past Old

Faithful.

It erupts every 90 minutes or so,

and with less promptness and

splendor than 50 years ago when

an earthquake shifted things below the surface.  The

crowds gather, however, and there were several

hundred people for our showing.  We were lucky and

got a big burst after the geyser teased us with a series

of smaller sprays.

After enjoying much of what Yellowstone has to offer -- but realizing we'll have to return several times to see it all --

we made our way south into Grand Tetons National Park, Wyoming.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Yellowstone National Park, WY – Big Game Animals

Herd of elk in front of the visitors center.

What a rack.  A local hunter standing nearby told us he was

at Yellowstone to size up his prey for when they migrate out

of the park into the legal hunting areas.

Morning flirtations

Buffalo use the roads for travel too.

Yellowstone National Park - Animals

September 6-10, 2007 - One of the most exciting

things in Yellowstone is seeing the big game

animals up close.  Our first morning in the park,

after driving down from Glacier NP, we took a short

hike from the campground to the visitors center.  As

we climbed up the hillside through the forest we

looked up -- and saw a buffalo on the ridge above

us.  I stopped dead in my tracks, remembering the

sign I'd seen at the campground, "More people are

gored by buffalo each year than are attacked by

bears."  Yikes.  There had been another sign

explaining what to do in case you encountered a buffalo or bear in the park.  I wracked my brain trying to remember the

instructions, as each animal required something different.  Do you make noise, or not?  Back up slowly or run for your life?  Be

aggressive or passive?  The buffalo snorted at us.  Mark reached for his camera but I was frozen to the spot.  Suddenly the

mammoth, ungainly beast leaped away.  He moved across the impossibly steep and rocky terrain with the grace and agility of a

dancer.  In an instant he was gone.  We gaped at each other, wide-eyed.  What a way to be welcomed to Yellowstone National

Park.

When we arrived at the visitors center we found it was occupied by

a herd of elk.  It was elk mating season and they like to congregate

at the visitors center.  They wandered up and down the grassy

areas as if they owned the place while the rangers waved the cars

through and tried to control the exuberant park visitors.

A huge male was seated motionless in the middle of the grass

with his harem of females surrounding him at a distance.  He

barely moved a muscle as he sat in the sun.  We watched him,

willing him to turn to face us.  He wouldn't move, despite the

crowd of onlookers snapping his photo.  Almost imperceptably he

moved his head slightly.  This seemed an indication that he might

stand up and the rangers leapt into action, waving everyone

away from the grass to give the big guy room.  "These are wild

animals," they explained to us.  "They are unpredictable."  That proved true, as the enormous elk must have decided he didn't

need to stand up afterall, and he stayed seated in the sun for another few hours.

One morning we woke up to see a young buck elk flirting with a

young female right outside our trailer window.  We grabbed the

cameras and started shooting right through the window.  They

touched noses and then reared up on their hind feet, pawing at

each other.

They did this for about 10 minutes, pausing to nibble the bushes

every now and then between flirtations.  When the young male

leaned over to munch on a leaf we could see that his antlers were

soft and fuzzy.

Out on the park roads it

was common to see elk

and bison roaming

around.  The animals

use the park roads in the

winter because it is

easier to walk through

the snow there.  So they

do own the roads

afterall, and they

continue walking along

them in the summertime

too.  After a while we got

used to seeing the huge

buffalos.  They didn't get

any prettier, but from the

safety of the car they

seemed a little less

intimidating.

The tamed wild animals

are just one of the many

marvels at Yellowstone.

We were intrigued by the

steaming and gurgling of

the hot springs and

geysers as well.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

North Cascades, WA – From the coast to the peaks

Back on American soil in Anacortes, WA.

Diablo Lake, Washington.

Diablo Lake, Washington.

The only other 2007 Lynx we saw on the road in a year of

travel.

Washington Pass.

Washington Pass.

Sunrise at Washington Pass. I was still sleeping, but Mark got some great photos.

Sunrise at Washington Pass. I was still sleeping, but Mark

got some great photos.

Washington Pass looking down at the road we'd be traveling.

Washington Pass looking down at the road we'd be

traveling.

Wasington Pass.

Wasington Pass.

Winthrop, Washington.

Winthrop, Washington.

One of several brew pubs.

Winthrop, Washington.

Winthrop, Washington.

Local bike shop in Winthrop, Washington.

Local bike shop in Winthrop, Washington.

Fiddlers Contest.

There were groups of all types up on stage and practicing

together in the grass.

The fiddlers were all ages.

Farmer's Market, Winthrop, WA

Farmer's Market, Winthrop, WA

Farmlands along the Northern Cascades.

Farmlands along the Northern Cascades.

The climate changed from wetter on the western side of the Cascades to drier as we descended the eastern slopes.

The climate changed from wetter on the western side of the

Cascades to drier as we descended the eastern slopes.

The towns along the way are small and inviting. 

We stopped in Republic, Washington and searched high and low for the visitors center, but despite several signs on the road, no one in town could help us locate it.

We stopped in Republic, Washington and searched high and

low for the visitors center, but despite several signs on the

road, no one in town could help us locate it.

Northern Cascades, Washington

 

August 25-27, 2007 - We arrived in Anacortes, Washington from Victoria, BC and,

after savoring a "burger and two beer" lunch special for a total of $7.50 at a cute little

bistro, we headed out over the Northern Cascade mountains towards Idaho.  It was a

beautiful drive.  We stopped for photos at the magical Diablo Lake where the water is a

brilliant turquoise.

While admiring the

view, we turned

and saw there was

another 2007 Lynx

travel trailer parked

nearby.  What a

surprise!  We saw only a handful of Lynxes all year -- an '05

and a few from the 1990's.  Where are all the others?

After climbing through the trees for miles and miles we came

across a scenic viewpoint at Washington Pass.  This is no ordinary

pullout.  Set back a half mile from the road there are bathrooms,

picnic tables with water spigots and a charming paved walking trail

along a spectacular ridge overlooking the winding road far below.

We took our time at this spot.

The road over the Cascades was completed in 1972, and many of

the towns along the way took that occasion to dress up a bit for the

tourists.  The very cute town of Winthrop was refurbished during the

1970's to reflect its western mining heritage, and today it is a

wonderful walking town.

When we arrived we

discovered they were hosting

a fiddling contest.  Fiddlers

from all over the west had

come to compete.  The

kids played really well.

Music seemed to be appreciated everywhere.  We stopped in another

town to pick up some goodies at the farmer's market, and a group of

musicians was entertaining people there as well.

Leaving northern

Washington we crossed into

northern Idaho where we

discovered the delightful

Trail of the Coeur d'Alenes

bike path.