Fire Canyon Overlook
Valley of Fire, Nevada
October 20-27, 2007 - Leaving southern Utah, we dropped into Nevada
and spent a week in Valley of Fire State Park. This park is truly on fire.
We first saw the redrocks as we crested a hill, and looking down at the
valley before us we saw all shades of red and orange. The road through
the park is ideal for cycling, and we rode to the end and back several
times. As you climb through craggy redrocks and fly through twisting
descents it is hard to keep your eyes on the road as there are new
spectacular sights at every turn.
The park features a wall filled with petroglyphs.
They are high up on a cliff, and tourists can
climb the long staircase to get a close look. I
couldn't decipher anything in the tale that is told
on that wall, however a scientist has uncovered
the full coming-of-age hunting story that is
depicted there. Looking out over the valley from the viewing platform it is hard to
imagine how the ancients managed to get their artwork onto that rock face. There is a
slippery and narrow rock shelf they might have stood on, but most of the images are still
far out of human reach.
We found a cozy spot to park up against the redrock cliffs. In the
evenings we watched the bats chase the bugs around the restrooms.
After many attempts, Mark caught one mid-flight.
One morning we peeked out the trailer to see a stunning sunrise in
action. We leapt out of bed and grabbed the cameras, clicking
away as the sky flamed from deep orange to soft peach hues.
A raptor enjoyed the same
sunrise, studying the
surroundings as he
searched for breakfast.
We enjoyed two hikes in
the park. The White Dome
hike took us past the old
1966 movie set from "The
Professionals." Not much
remains from the set, but
we scratched our heads for
a long time trying to
imagine how all the movie-
related paraphernalis was
hauled down into that
canyon.
What remains now is
lots of tall rock
formations and soft
sand. Small scrub
plants grow out of the
sand, a seemingly
impossible feat.
Little creatures leave
their tracks all through
the sand. Some tracks
are clearly bird prints, hopping with paired feet
across the sand. Others are less easy to identify
-- until you find the creature responsible and see that drags his
tail as he moves.
On our way out of the park we saw a redrock snowman... Leaving Valley of Fire State Park we continued south and
a little west, dropping into Death Valley National Park in California.
Goblin Valley, UT – Where the Ghosts Are
Sea turtle
Mushroom
Gorilla head
Space ship taking off
Ducks
Goblin Valley & Little Wild Horse Canyon, Utah
October 1-6, 2007 - Continuing south from the San Rafael Swell, we
stopped in at Goblin Valley, Utah. This state park is a gem. As you
arrive you are welcomed by a trio of goblins who stand apart from the
valley, greeting visitors with otherworldly expressions. Beyond them an
enormous formation dominates the flat horizon, looking like a bright red
gothic cathedral.
The campground is nestled into the buttresses of the redrock
cathedral, with shade ramadas at each site.
The rock formations are very tall and imposing, but when you walk up
close to them you discover that much of their structure is like a sand
dribble castle kids make at the beach. The sandstone is literally
dripping down the sides of the formation and it is very delicate to the
touch. Tap it lightly and it sounds hollow. Touch it any more forcefully
and it breaks off.
We wandered
down into the
actual Valley of
the Goblins, a
fantastic open area of redrock formations that look like creatures. We
learned that these formations evolve in the same way as the arches do
at Arches National Park, but in this neck of the woods the result is
goblins instead of arches.
You are allowed to climb on the goblins, and they stand two to three
times human height, making a great climbing playground. As we
walked down into the valley a little kid rocketed past us yelling, "This is
heaven!"
Many of the formations are recognizable shapes....
One day we hiked
the Little Wild Horse Slot Canyon. This is
an 8 mile hike but only about an hour of it is
spent in the slot canyon. The slot canyon
was very narrow. At times the gravel path
was wide enough for just one foot at a time.
But it wasn't scary at all.
The canyon is wide open to the sky
above, and the narrow portions last
only a few feet. Don't hike these
things when rain threatens, because
the water gushes through. After a
rain it takes a few days for the water
in the slot canyon to subside.
Feeling a chill in the air in Goblin Valley, we made our way towards southern
Utah along the incomparable Scenic Route 12, stopping first at Kodachrome
Basin and then riding our bikes through Zion National Park.
More great RV camping destinations:
- Lost Dutchman State Park: GORGEOUS scenery & RV campground!
- Windy Hill Campground + Tonto National Monument
- Lynx Lake, Arizona – Great RV Camping Near Prescott!
- Dead Horse Ranch State Park + Tuzigoot and Clarkdale
- Catalina State Park & Roosevelt Lake: RV Camping in AZ
- Oliver Lee Memorial State Park, New Mexico – A Dog’s Eye View!
- Lost Dutchman State Park Campground – Arizona Gold in the Superstitions
- Lake Pleasant & Canyon Lake – Waterfront Camping in Arizona’s Sonoran Desert
- Sand Hollow State Park, Utah – An Oasis in the Desert!
- RV Camping with the Rock Art Petroglyphs in Gila Bend, AZ
- City of Rocks State Park, NM – RV Camping in the Hoodoos!
- Boondocking at Big Bend National Park – Cheap & Scenic RV Camping
- Roosevelt Lake – Lakeside Camping in AZ
- Wupatki Nat’l Monument – Ancient Indian Ruins & Great Camping in AZ!
- Valley of Fire, NV – A Cauldron Cooled
- Zion NP, Kodachrome Basin & Snow Canyon, UT – Great Red Rocks!
- Goblin Valley, UT – Where the Ghosts Are
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San Rafael Swell, UT – Pictographs & Dinosaur Prints
San Rafael Swell, Utah
September 25-30, 2007 - We rushed south to get away from the snow
and cold in Park City and found the perfect temperatures in the Green
River area. The San Rafael Swell is a vast area of redrocks and desert
brush that we explored for several days. The rock cliffs are enormous.
We found rock faces that sported pictographs painted by ancient
peoples 2000 years ago. Pictographs are made using some kind of
paint on the rock, but it impregnates the rock face enough to last over
thousands of years. It may have been made using saliva or blood.
The images were mystical. The people were tall and thin with
garments that reached to the ground. It was hard to tell what they
were doing, but in one image all the people had holes pecked in their
chests. Apparently the holes were pecked deliberately, though
researchers don't know what they represented.
We also found petroglyphs chiseled in the rocks by ancient peoples
1000 years ago. The images were a little more real-life. Elk and big
horn sheep were easy to distinguish.
One image was a little mystifying,
however: the figure had four
fingers, three toes, antennae and
either a tail or a shield in the other
hand. There is graffiti around
many of these rock images, and
the poor quality of the modern rock
doodles makes it clear that the
rock artists spent some time and
had some skill in making these
images last.
Further on we found a dinosaur
track (the guidebook helped us
find it!). Whatever type of
dinosaur it belonged to was very good sized. Mark's hand
disappeared into the footprint.
We drove through an area called "Jackass Flats" and, sure
enough, we saw three burros nibbling the grass. They came right
over to us to check us out. Eventually they decided we weren't all
that interesting, and they wandered off.
Back out on I-70 we stopped at the north end of Spotted Wolf
Pass. It took 13 years to build this portion of I-70 through the
rock cliffs. It takes five minutes to drive through it.
From there we dropped down to Goblin Valley, Utah.
Devil’s Tower, WY – Remember “Close Encounters of the Third Kind” ??
The Lakota called it "Bear's
Lodge"
Rock climbers scale the facets of Devils Tower.
Devils Tower, Wyoming
September 13, 2007 - Every since I saw the movie "Close Encounters
of the Third Kind" I was intrigued by Devils Tower, so when I saw it on
the map in Wyoming as we left the Tetons behind, I told Mark we had
to make the turn. It is a beautiful drive to get there. When the rock
showed up in the distance it was quite dramatic.
We learned that the Lakota Indians had a legend about the rock
involving a bear climbing the sides of the rock and Indians defending
the rock from its flat summit. The bear's claws scraped the rock as he
climbed, making the striped indentations that are there today. They
called it "Bear's Lodge."
An early American fellow named
Dodge had visited the area and seen
the rock from 20 miles off. He
apparently mistranslated the Lakota
name for the rock and thought it was
called "Bad Spirit," which is how it
came to be named "Devils Tower."
I was intrigued that Devils Tower in Wyoming looks a lot like Devils
Postpile in California. But I learned that Devils Postpile heaved
upwards, while Devils Tower got its shape from erosion, and
Devils Postpile consists of basalt while Devils Tower is granite.
One of the greatest charms of this national
monument is the community of prairie dogs
that lives in the fields at the base of the rock.
They bark and play and scamper around to
the total enjoyment of all the tourists. There
are little entrance holes to their lairs
everywhere. They were constantly popping
up out of their holes to look around and then
diving back down again.
We had a glorious day
visiting Devils Tower.
We didn't see any
extra-terrestrials but
were enchanted by
the adorable prairie
dogs and the unique
and real stories behind Devils Tower. Leaving this unique
granite formation behind, we wandered east and south into the
Black Hills of South Dakota.
Flaming Gorge Utah – Vibrant Hues
Flaming Gorge - Green River
Flaming Gorge National Park
Flaming Gorge
Back side of Park City in Fall.
Sunrise over the snowy ski runs -- in September!!
Leaving northern Utah for warmer places south.
Flaming Gorge National Park & Park City, Utah
September 18-24, 2007 - We left South Dakota's Black Hills and
headed west through Wyoming and south to Utah. We stopped at
Flaming Gorge National Park, a stunning area of red rock cliffs
overlooking the Green River. The colors of the rocks and water were
vibrant.
We made our way to Park City, home of the Winter Olympics. For
the first time we felt the weather pushing us. When we arrived in
Park City we discovered Fall was in full swing. The trees were
turning all kinds of gorgeous colors.
We took a drive over the mountain along the back side of Park City
and saw autumn in all her colorful glory.
The weather began to take on the chill of winter, with nights getting
into the 20's. One morning we watched in amazement as a light rain
became a blizzard in a matter of minutes. Suddenly the surrounding
mountains were virgin white. The snow disappeared a few days later,
but we took the hint. It was time to head south towards central Utah.
Here we discovered the San Rafael Swell, an area just north of
Green River on I-70.
Black Hills, SD – Mt. Rushmore and More
"Wild" Burros roamed around.
Wild turkeys trotted along.
Traffic Jam in Custer State Park
Washington, Jefferson, Roosevelt and Lincoln
George Washington.
Approaching Mt. Rushmore
Crazy Horse
Skinny tunnel at The Needles.
The Needles
September 14-17, 2007 - After watching Devil's Tower retreat in the
distance, we made a brief stop in the Black Hills, visiting Custer State
Park and Mt. Rushmore. There was lots of wildlife in Custer State
Park. A group of buffalo took their time crossing the road and caused
quite a traffic tie-up. The burros were wandering across the road and
lazing in the shade of a tree near the road as well. Some wild turkeys
caught our eye as they pecked along at the roadside, and a deer
stopped to look at us.
We enjoyed the three dimensional nature of Mt. Rushmore's
famous sculptures of the four presidents as we caught them first
from one side and then from the other. Another famous sculpture
in the area is of the Indian Crazy Horse. It was begun shortly after
Mt. Rushmore was completed in the 1940's, but has been funded
solely by private donation, making progress very slow. The
organization leading its creation has turned down federal funding
several times.
We drove through The Needles. These granite formations are very
thin and tall, and the road is extremely narrow and twisty. After we
barely squeaked through a tunnel carved in the rock, we watched
in awe as an experienced tour bus driver expertly took his bus
through the same opening. His passengers reached out their
windows to touch the rock wall on either side of the bus.
Custer State Park was a real
jewel, and we would have
happily stayed several weeks.
However, the cold weather
was starting to penetrate our
sweaters and jackets and we
had a long way to go to get
back to the warmer climate in
Arizona. So we headed west
through Wyoming, making
our way to northern Utah, stopping first at Flaming Gorge
National Recreation Area.
Grand Teton National Park, Wyoming – Stunning!
Grand Tetons
Grand Tetons
The Tetons stand watch over Lake Jackson
The mountains seem to rise up out of the lake.
Pronghorn antelope.
Lake Jackson.
Jenny Lake reflects the mountains in her depths.
Grand Teton National Park, WY
September 10-12, 2007 - We drove from Yellowstone south to
Grand Teton National Park. We were there on magically beautiful
days. The sky was bright and clear and everywhere we turned
was like a picture postcard. Apparently the mountains are often
obscured by clouds, so we felt fortunate to see them on days that
were crystal clear.
We drove the Scenic Loop
through the park, and on
our way back we saw a
pronghorn antelope peering
at us through the grass.
Just after we got his picture
he bounded away.
We were starting to feel the press of the coming cold weather, and
we still had a lot we wanted to see before we headed south, so we
made our way eastwards in Wyoming to Devils Tower National
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Yellowstone National Park, WY – Bubbling Geysers
Algae-filled crystal clear stream.
Professional photographers
come here too!
Old Faithful teases us.
The crowds gather.
There she goes...!
Oh.. oh.. look...
Yellowstone National Park - Mammoth Hot Springs
September 6-10, 2007 -- We drove into the main north entrance to
Yellowstone National Park and arrived at Mammoth Hot Springs. I
had never thought about how Yellowstone got its name, but when I
saw the colorful mineral deposits surrounding me it was obvious.
Steam billowed into the air from the hot springs and the smell of
sulphur wafted over us in waves. The minerals solidify into
stairstep formations and drippy solid lumps.
There is a mystical quality to this area. The water looks passive
and serene, but the mist and steam drifting above the surface
belie something more sinister brewing below.
I saw a fast flowing stream
filled with bright green plant
life. it was crystal clear and
looked like it must be ice
cold. Without even
thinking I put my hand in
the water - and yanked it
right out! The water was
hot hot hot!
There are mazes of
boardwalks throughout
Mammoth Hot Springs,
some passing old defunct
springs and others skirting
pools of steaming mineral
water. The minerals harden
into all kinds of shapes, from
elaborate staircases to very
tall pinnacles. Some of the
springs bubble under vast
lakes punctuated by dead
trees. Up close the
minerals are a kaleidescope
of colors.
In some areas the minerals harden in waves, like a frozen orange
ocean. In other areas mini-waterfalls dribble minerals over an edge.
At one lookout we found a professional photographer
using a huge format camera under a draped hood. Our
quickie snapshots of anything and everything around us
seemed amateurish next to his deliberate methodology.
Other areas of the park feature
geysers as well as hot springs.
And no visit to Yellowstone is
complete without a spin past Old
Faithful.
It erupts every 90 minutes or so,
and with less promptness and
splendor than 50 years ago when
an earthquake shifted things below the surface. The
crowds gather, however, and there were several
hundred people for our showing. We were lucky and
got a big burst after the geyser teased us with a series
of smaller sprays.
After enjoying much of what Yellowstone has to offer -- but realizing we'll have to return several times to see it all --
we made our way south into Grand Tetons National Park, Wyoming.
Yellowstone National Park, WY – Big Game Animals
Herd of elk in front of the visitors center.
What a rack. A local hunter standing nearby told us he was
at Yellowstone to size up his prey for when they migrate out
of the park into the legal hunting areas.
Morning flirtations
Buffalo use the roads for travel too.
Yellowstone National Park - Animals
September 6-10, 2007 - One of the most exciting
things in Yellowstone is seeing the big game
animals up close. Our first morning in the park,
after driving down from Glacier NP, we took a short
hike from the campground to the visitors center. As
we climbed up the hillside through the forest we
looked up -- and saw a buffalo on the ridge above
us. I stopped dead in my tracks, remembering the
sign I'd seen at the campground, "More people are
gored by buffalo each year than are attacked by
bears." Yikes. There had been another sign
explaining what to do in case you encountered a buffalo or bear in the park. I wracked my brain trying to remember the
instructions, as each animal required something different. Do you make noise, or not? Back up slowly or run for your life? Be
aggressive or passive? The buffalo snorted at us. Mark reached for his camera but I was frozen to the spot. Suddenly the
mammoth, ungainly beast leaped away. He moved across the impossibly steep and rocky terrain with the grace and agility of a
dancer. In an instant he was gone. We gaped at each other, wide-eyed. What a way to be welcomed to Yellowstone National
When we arrived at the visitors center we found it was occupied by
a herd of elk. It was elk mating season and they like to congregate
at the visitors center. They wandered up and down the grassy
areas as if they owned the place while the rangers waved the cars
through and tried to control the exuberant park visitors.
A huge male was seated motionless in the middle of the grass
with his harem of females surrounding him at a distance. He
barely moved a muscle as he sat in the sun. We watched him,
willing him to turn to face us. He wouldn't move, despite the
crowd of onlookers snapping his photo. Almost imperceptably he
moved his head slightly. This seemed an indication that he might
stand up and the rangers leapt into action, waving everyone
away from the grass to give the big guy room. "These are wild
animals," they explained to us. "They are unpredictable." That proved true, as the enormous elk must have decided he didn't
need to stand up afterall, and he stayed seated in the sun for another few hours.
One morning we woke up to see a young buck elk flirting with a
young female right outside our trailer window. We grabbed the
cameras and started shooting right through the window. They
touched noses and then reared up on their hind feet, pawing at
each other.
They did this for about 10 minutes, pausing to nibble the bushes
every now and then between flirtations. When the young male
leaned over to munch on a leaf we could see that his antlers were
soft and fuzzy.
Out on the park roads it
was common to see elk
and bison roaming
around. The animals
use the park roads in the
winter because it is
easier to walk through
the snow there. So they
do own the roads
afterall, and they
continue walking along
them in the summertime
too. After a while we got
used to seeing the huge
buffalos. They didn't get
any prettier, but from the
safety of the car they
seemed a little less
intimidating.
The tamed wild animals
are just one of the many
marvels at Yellowstone.
We were intrigued by the
steaming and gurgling of
the hot springs and
geysers as well.
North Cascades, WA – From the coast to the peaks
Back on American soil in Anacortes, WA.
Diablo Lake, Washington.
The only other 2007 Lynx we saw on the road in a year of
travel.
Washington Pass.
Sunrise at Washington Pass. I was still sleeping, but Mark
got some great photos.
Washington Pass looking down at the road we'd be
traveling.
Wasington Pass.
Winthrop, Washington.
One of several brew pubs.
Winthrop, Washington.
Local bike shop in Winthrop, Washington.
Fiddlers Contest.
There were groups of all types up on stage and practicing
together in the grass.
The fiddlers were all ages.
Farmer's Market, Winthrop, WA
Farmlands along the Northern Cascades.
The climate changed from wetter on the western side of the
Cascades to drier as we descended the eastern slopes.
The towns along the way are small and inviting.
We stopped in Republic, Washington and searched high and
low for the visitors center, but despite several signs on the
road, no one in town could help us locate it.
Northern Cascades, Washington
August 25-27, 2007 - We arrived in Anacortes, Washington from Victoria, BC and,
after savoring a "burger and two beer" lunch special for a total of $7.50 at a cute little
bistro, we headed out over the Northern Cascade mountains towards Idaho. It was a
beautiful drive. We stopped for photos at the magical Diablo Lake where the water is a
brilliant turquoise.
While admiring the
view, we turned
and saw there was
another 2007 Lynx
travel trailer parked
nearby. What a
surprise! We saw only a handful of Lynxes all year -- an '05
and a few from the 1990's. Where are all the others?
After climbing through the trees for miles and miles we came
across a scenic viewpoint at Washington Pass. This is no ordinary
pullout. Set back a half mile from the road there are bathrooms,
picnic tables with water spigots and a charming paved walking trail
along a spectacular ridge overlooking the winding road far below.
We took our time at this spot.
The road over the Cascades was completed in 1972, and many of
the towns along the way took that occasion to dress up a bit for the
tourists. The very cute town of Winthrop was refurbished during the
1970's to reflect its western mining heritage, and today it is a
wonderful walking town.
When we arrived we
discovered they were hosting
a fiddling contest. Fiddlers
from all over the west had
come to compete. The
kids played really well.
Music seemed to be appreciated everywhere. We stopped in another
town to pick up some goodies at the farmer's market, and a group of
musicians was entertaining people there as well.
Leaving northern
Washington we crossed into
northern Idaho where we
discovered the delightful
Trail of the Coeur d'Alenes
bike path.