A Joseph Oregon “Rail Rider” — What a blast to ride!!
July 2014 – While roaming around the backside of the pretty town of Joseph, Oregon, we came across a guy working on the most unusual looking tandem bicycle.
It had two seats side by side and was sitting on the old railroad tracks of an unused railway line.
July 2014 – Even though the cyclists at the Baker City Cycling Classic had seen rain and hail and all kinds of miserable cold weather on their first day of racing, a scorching heat wave was predicted for the upcoming week. We decided it was time to get out of the valley. We ventured east at first, checking out the new Oregon Trail Interpretive Center that stands proudly at the top of a hill with some pioneer wagons parked outside that look very authentic from the highway below.
Original ruts on the Oregon Trail
Most intriguing, however, were the original wagon train ruts of the old Oregon Trail that can be seen just a few feet from the highway.
We tromped around for a while, not sure if these were a modern two track road or the real thing, but after a short walk we came across a Bureau of Land Management sign that confirmed these were the real deal.
Heading down our Oregon Trail!
The original Oregon Trail was a wide, shallow ditch made by the horses and oxen that pulled the wagons. Early motor cars used the old trail route too, though, and turned it into a two track road.
I was floored to learn that during the peak of the migration, diaries indicate that thousands of wagons could be seen from horizon to horizon at certain spots along the trail.
How easy we have it today, driving down the smooth, paved highway, towing our fifth wheel down the road with the Mighty Dodge. What those pioneers would have given for a rig and road like this!
The first glimpse of the scenery surrounding Joseph – WOW!
The tiny town of Joseph, tucked way up in the northeastern corner of Oregon (by Washington and Idaho), has been begging us to visit for years. It wasn’t an overt invitation, but Joseph beckoned me on the map because it sits at the end of a dead-end road right at the base of the Wallowa mountains.
Such pretty landscapes!
We needed to skirt the western and northern edges of those mountains to get there, but as the road finally turned south towards Joseph, our jaws dropped at the majestic views taking shape around us.
I love those old red barns
The mountains were still snow-capped, and the rolling farm and ranch land stretched green and alive as far as the eye could see.
The Wallowa mountains make such a beautiful backdrop!
Wonderful old barns filled the foregrounds of every view, each one seeming more picturesque than the last. We stared out the windows wide-eyed.
Main Street in Joseph
How’s that for a backyard garden?!
If this bucolic alpine scenery weren’t enough, as we pulled into town we were smitten with the quaintness of the place.
Just 1,000 people call Joseph home, and even though it swells a little with visitors in the summertime, it is remote enough that it is still very quiet.
Asking a fellow from Portland how long it had taken him to get here, he laughed and said, “Days!”
Red Horse Coffee Traders is a favorite gathering place.
The Red Horse Coffee Traders coffee shop soon became a second home for us, and we had lots of company there.
Ride ’em cowboy!
The locals hang out there just like we were doing, not only because of the great coffee and unbelievably yummy muffins, but because it’s a fantastic spot to relax in the shade of the trees and mess around on the internet.
“You don’t have internet at your house?” I asked the guy next to me incredulously.
“Nah, I live ten miles out…”
Chief Joseph watches over the town.
Joseph, Oregon, is home to a Valley Bronze, a foundry established in 1982. Bronze sculptors from all over the country cast their works here.
Even the post office has a beautiful bronze sculpture outside.
Each corner of Main Street in town is adorned with beautiful bronze sculptures, including one of Chief Joseph, the town’s namesake, that was purchased by Sam Walton’s daughter-in-law and given to the town to display.
A bronze rodeo rider, a soaring eagle, a cougar and Indian guide Sacajawea are all posed elegantly amid the flower boxes around town.
Wild daisies were in bloom everywhere.
Even the tiny post office has a handsome bronze sculpture of an Indian warrior right outside the front door.
Still drawn in by those dramatic mountains at the back of town, we drove towards them until we came to breathtaking Wallowa Lake.
Kayakers and paddleboarders were out on the water while a few sunbathers laid out on blankets on the beach.
Wallowa Lake
What a place!!
We ran around with the cameras for days, composing photos of those gorgeous mountains with anything and everything we could find in the foreground: wild daisies, vivid pink flowers in a garden, trees, cows and barns…and more barns!
Sometimes we spotted deer as they wandered through gardens in town or bounded through the hay fields on the outskirts.
Deer wandered all over town!
Mark even saw a doe with two little spotted fauns when he was out on a run one morning.
Happy camper!
As we hung around and chatted with people, we discovered there was a ton of stuff to do in the area besides take photos.
Going over our growing list of hikes and rides and places we wanted to visit, we soon realized we would be here in Joseph for a while!
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Baker City Oregon is in the heart of some of the best road cycling in America. This is rolling farm country where ranchers own land by the section (that is, by the square mile!).
Cyclists roll by all the time in eastern Oregon.
Baker City is in the heart of cycling country.
The roads are well maintained, with generous shoulders, and there is nary a car to be seen once you get a few miles from town.
We saw touring cyclists of all kinds between Bend and Baker City
On our way from Bend to Baker City, we played hopscotch with long-distance touring cyclists heading east with us (the prevailing winds are out of the west).
Eastern Oregon is a great place to develop legs like these!
Some were on shorter tours with local clubs while others were individuals traveling cross-country on their own with panniers on their bikes.
For a few days on these scenic roads we kept passing, and being passed by, the annual trans-America organized ride put on by America By Bike.
They were en route between Astoria, Oregon, and Portsmouth, New Hampshire, a 51 day trip.
Hammering it out in the final sprint to the finish line.
When we got to Baker City, we saw posters for the Baker City Cycling Classic, a three day bike race with four race stages that attracts over 150 racers from Oregon and nearby states.
By some wonderful, sweet, unplanned, good fortune, we just happened to be in town on the weekend of the race!
With two road race stages out in the countryside that are 72 and 84 miles each, and an 11 mile downhill time trial, there was a lot of racing to see.
“Race ya to the corner!”
We went out to the finish line of the first road race and watched the cyclists descend the last mountain of the day and sprint to the finish line. What a rush!
Going for the gold!
Warming up on a trainer…
The third stage of the race is a wild Saturday afternoon criterium circuit race around the streets of Baker City, and it brings out the crowds.
As we waited for the race to begin, we noticed two little boys and a girl starting a race of their own on the sidewalk!
After they got to their turnaround point at the end of the block and headed back, the little girl roared by us, hell bent for the win!
Meanwhile, the streets had been blocked off and all the restaurants set up chairs outside for the fans to eat lunch and sip microbrews while watching the action.
Wandering around the empty streets, we saw cyclists warming up on trainers with their teams. A few rode a lap or two around the 1.1 kilometer course to check it out.
Then they were off!
Bikes blur past the Geiser Grand Hotel downtown.
It was early in the Pacific Northwest cycling race season, and undoubtedly many of the cyclists had put together a bike race comeback plan to ensure they were at peak fitness for this race.
The racers were divided by the USA Cycling category divisions, Category 5 (beginner) to Category 1 (fastest), and they were unleashed on the course one group at a time. Each race lasted from 40 minutes to an hour, depending on the caliber of the racers. The bikes just kept coming and coming, round and round.
The historic streets make a perfect backdrop for a bike race.
As I mentioned in my last post about Baker City, Oregon, this is a really pretty town full of historic Victorian buildings. What a great way to show off the city — with colorful cyclists filling the streets!
The race went on all afternoon, so we could walk around to different parts of the course.
Baker City’s historic Eltrym movie theater.
The night before the first road race, racers and fans gathered in the historic Eltrym movie theater to watch Half the Road a movie about professional women’s cycling.
This thought-provoking film is a must-see for anyone interested in professional sports, the lives of elite athletes and/or the empowerment of women.
I still find it incredible that in my own lifetime we have gone from Women’s Lib bra burning to being defended by female fighter pilots.
And in recent years, a woman has nearly made the men’s podium in long distance triathlons!
So what a surprise it is to learn from this film that the Union Cycliste Internationale, the governing body of the sport, is deliberately inhibiting the growth of women’s professional cycling because they believe women aren’t physically up to the demands of the sport!
Do women have what it takes physically to race bikes?
St. Francis Cathedral peaks out behind the charging pack.
What would they say if they saw the determined women cyclists here in Baker City racing through driving rain and pelted by marble sized hail as they negotiated the steep climbs and descents on the first day of this race weekend?
(We stayed home and drank hot chocolate for that part!)
Popular and funny cycling commentator Bob Roll presents the infuriating facts (including startling interviews with UCI’s top brass) with good humor, making me want to laugh and cry at the same time.
With the current demand for a higher minimum wage, how shocking that professional women cyclists worldwide would be happy just to have a wage!
Out on the downtown race course, the fabulous Oregon microbrews kept coming while the cyclists kept rolling, and fans were all on the edges of our seats.
What a thrill to watch!
Fans clocked the earlier and slower groups of riders at about one minute twenty-five seconds for each lap (about 29 mph).
When the fastest racers, the Pro / Category 1 men, took the course near the end of the day, we clocked them ticking off laps at one minute fifteen second intervals (about 33 mph).
Wow!
On the sidelines the crowd became more and more animated each time the racers zoomed by.
Crash!
“You’d better get up there with your camera,” Mark suddenly said to me. “You know someone’s gonna crash!”
The racing had definitely reached that level of intensity. You couldn’t win this thing without taking risks, and the racers collectively threw all caution to the wind. We fans were out of our seats!
Within seconds the pack came by and, sure enough, someone went down.
Racers fish-tailed around each other. One guy did a cartwheel over another. Soon more bikes went down.
Ouch!
Oh my, when bikes pile up in a corner, they really pile up.
Miraculously, once the pack had scrambled through the mess, the fallen racers bounced back up and brushed themselves off!
Back on his feet.
A few rejoined the race.
But in the final laps it happened again, and one unfortunate fellow stayed on the ground after the race ended while the EMT’s patched him back together again.
They got him all bandaged up on one arm and both legs within minutes, and he was back on his feet and moving once again, although not with quite the same zip!
In all that excitement we lost track of who had won.
But it didn’t matter to us fans. It was the color and the speed and the whir of spinning wheels that had made the afternoon so exciting.
Rainbow after the hail storm that pelted the first road race.
We sure are glad that Baker City loves bikes! If you are here next June, grab a chair at a little bistro and kick back with a microbrew to watch this mini Tour de France from the front row!
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Mark greets patrons at the Big Money Bank
June 2014 – Leaving the John Day Fossil Beds National Monument behind and continuing our scenic drive to northeastern Oregon along Route 26, we passed through lots of small towns. Each one celebrated the historic American West in its own way.
Still pondering the early 20th century sheep ranching lifestyle we had seen at the Monument, we came across a funny, fake old western town front in Dayville.
Rather than building a sheep ranching enterprise, perhaps the easiest way to make a fortune in the old west was to work at the Big Money Bank. Mark certainly thought so!
With the railway shut down, Whitney, Oregon, is now a ghost town.
Another community we passed, named Whitney, was once a railroad town for the logging industry. Now it is a ghost town.
Rails extended in all directions from Whitney so that an immense stand of yellow pine could be harvested and shipped out on rail cars.
From 1901 to 1947 as many as 150 people called Whitney home. Today only a handful of crumbling buildings remain.
The Sumpter Valley Railroad between Sumpter
and McEwen is still alive and well!
Further east in Sumpter, Oregon, we found the lovingly restored remnants of the same logging railroad line that had put Whitney on the map: the Sumpter Valley Railroad
This railway now offers excursion rides. From the brake man to the conductor to the engineer, all the positions are held by dedicated volunteers.
The engineer gave Mark a turn in the driver’s seat.
Volunteers work for a few years to learn all the skills necessary to be advanced to the level of train engineer, and that was the goal of several volunteers we met.
We came across a vast field of wildflowers.
The train goes only a few miles between Sumpter and McEwen, but it is a popular ride for young and old alike.
The engineer invited Mark to have a seat in front of the engine. What an antiquated mechanical marvel that is!
The old mechanics who worked on these kinds of engines back when they were still in commercial use are now passing their skills on to younger mechanics who are learning how to restore them and keep them running.
Lupine were blooming in the woods nearby too!
Back on the road again, we saw snowy mountains beginning to appear on the horizon.
When we passed a field full of purple and white lupine, we had to stop for photographs!
Baker City is smack in the middle of beautiful farm and ranch land.
While we were both knee deep in flowers, a fellow driving by stopped his truck and walked over to us, saying, “I was hoping someone would photograph those flowers!”
Baker City’s small town charm is infectious.
We ended up chatting with him for quite a while, right there on the side of the road. He wasn’t in a hurry and neither were we!
We had arrived on the quieter side of Oregon.
Baker City is the biggest city for hundreds of miles around. How big is big? 10,000 people live there.
How fast is it growing? The population has hovered around 10,000 since 1940!
Baker City Oregon
Baker Tower is STILL Oregon’s highest building
east of the Cascades!
What a contrast to other western cities like Phoenix that is 23 times the size it was in 1940, or Bend Oregon that has quadrupled in just a few decades.
The grand buildings like City Hall
belie the small size of the population.
When I asked at the fabulous Baker Heritage Museum in town why things haven’t changed much over the years, I was told it’s because a lot of old timers like the city just the way it is.
If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it!
This small historic city oozes charm.
The nearest Walmart is 45 miles away, and there are no big box stores.
What really makes it special, though, besides its quiet, down to earth and friendly nature, is the beautiful Victorian arcthitecture all around town.
The Geiser Grand Hotel presides over downtown, along with the Baker Tower, the tallest building east of the Cascades.
Baker City was known as the “Queen of the mines” for good reason…
Keeping a lid on growth and resisting change doesn’t mean there’s no money around, however.
Northeast Oregon is the richest part of the state for gold, and the US Bank branch in town has a glass enclosed exhibit of gold nuggets that includes a fist-sized “nugget” that was found nearby in June, 1913.
The day after unearthing it, the two men who discovered it hopped on the Sumpter Valley Railroad (which was carrying passengers as well as logs by then) to take it to Baker City to have it appraised.
At 80.4 ounces (over 5 lbs.), it is one of the largest pure gold nuggets still in existence today (most others were melted down).
Not all money came from gold and timber…
Magazine distribution magnate Leo Adler lived here.
At the time it was found, gold was about $18 an ounce, making it worth about $1,500 to those two lucky men.
Today, 99 years later, gold is worth over $1,300 per ounce, but as a collectible, this nugget is probably even more valuable.
One of the town’s most successful residents is Leo Adler who created a magazine distribution empire in the mid-1900’s.
A deer and his buddy surprise us on the bike path in town.
He started out by walking around town at age 9 carrying the Saturday Evening Post and Ladies Home Journal!
They call this a city?!!
He loved Baker City, and he left the city a substantial sum, part of which has been used to create a paved bike path through town.
What a soul-satisfying town
to call home for a while.
While we were riding on his namesake path one day, Mark saw a young buck nibbling leaves on a tree.
He trotted right between us!
We followed him and his buddy to a big field where they started grazing, totally unconcerned with our presence.
Such is life — one of peace and tranquility — in Baker City, Oregon.
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The Two Bulls fire created a mushroom cloud on Bend’s horizon
June, 2014 – We were having so much fun in Bend, Oregon, that one night when we went to bed we joked that we’d probably stick around for another month. Or maybe all summer!
The next afternoon the Two Bulls wildfire broke out about ten or so miles away.
Within 24 hours the smoke was choking our campsite.
Ironically, back at Crater Lake, we had stood in the snow on the rooftop of an overlook with some Oregon firefighters who told us they expected a very difficult fire season due to the scant snowfall over the winter. Continue reading
Silky water on the Crooked River
We have left Bend and the central Oregon area and have ventured northeast to what may easily be the most beautiful and tranquil part of this state.
June, 2014 – Oregon is loaded with designated Scenic Drives, and a lot of these routes weave a web around central Oregon. During our stay in Bend, cruising friends of ours who were on a brief break from sailing the South Pacific on their boat Mazu invited us to visit. This was a perfect chance for us to check out the scenic roads along the McKenzie River that lie to the west of Bend.
We got great scenery right away on our way to Sisters
As we approached the cute town of Sisters we were awarded with some spectacular views of snowcapped mountains hovering on the horizon. These mountains are the Three Sisters, bearing the names Faith, Hope and Charity.
They sit a tantalizing but frustrating distance away from the very lonely yet handsome Mount Bachelor who has been trying unsuccessfully to win their affections forever.
Our drive along the pretty McKenzie River took us first to Camp Sherman, a tiny and richly verdant village on the banks of the small Metolius River.
Camp Sherman is an evergreen riverside hideaway
Just a few miles from Camp Sherman we visited the headwaters of the Metolius River which spill forth from the side of a hill like a huge bubbler. The scientific debate about the origins of this water is intriguing in an academic kind of way, and we nodded with appropriate solemnity as we read the plaques about it all.
Well, hello there!
These guys were professionals!
But what really captivated us at the viewing area were the chipmunks.
These cheeky little guys are very fond of people and they ran right up to us.
Come sit for a spell at Suttle Lake…
Well, “fond of people” isn’t quite accurate, as it is the snacks we people carry that they are after!
They sized us up in a heartbeat, and quickly wrote us off as being uselessly empty-handed and soon disappeared.
A little further west on our drive along Route 126 we stopped at Suttle Lake where we wandered among the flowers and took in the lake views.
The Lodge at Suttle Lake is a beautiful log structure with a huge and inviting great room that boasts a big stone hearth.
The lodge was spacious and airy yet cozy at the same time.
Starburst through a flower!
Mark found this beautiful wildflower.
View from the deck of The Lodge at Suttle Lake
Out on the raised lawn there is an elegant deck with patio seating that overlooks the lake.
Mark spent quite a bit of time among the flowers and came away with some magnificent photos.
Leaving Suttle Lake and carrying on our explorations further west, we came to Sahalie Falls.
A stream-side hike at Sahalie Falls brought us to this view.
Oregon is known for its stunning and varied waterfalls, but Sahalie Falls will always stand out in our memories as particularly majestic.
We heard the big cascade from the parking lot before we even saw it, and as we descended the stone stairs on the path, a blast of cold air swept across us.
Sahalie Falls
Happy campers
The stairs are lined with hewn log rails that are covered so thickly in moss and ivy that they are a rich, moist dark green that is alive to the touch.
At the bottom of the stairs a wonderful rainforest hiking trail winds over roots and between ferns along the river’s edge.
Here the falls rush along in splashy, noisy rapids that tumble and crash over the rocks in a big rush to get downstream.
Good Pasture Covered Bridge is the longest continually used covered bridge in Oregon!
Hopping back in the truck, Route 126 took us further west along the McKenzie River, passing by the historic Good Pasture Bridge.
This covered bridge is the second longest in Oregon, and the longest one that has been in continual use since it was built.
We learned that, back in the day, bridges were built with walls and a roof so horses would walk across without shying.
And here comes a 1959 Corvette!
How fun to watch a pristine 1959 Corvette convertible come through the bridge towards us!
Our friends took us to the Leaburg fish hatchery where trout and other fish are raised to stock the area rivers and lakes.
Seeing the jumble of fish in the water was interesting, but the best part was when an osprey silently swooped down and grabbed a fish out of a tank in its talons.
There’s nothing like a free lunch!
He took his catch up in a tree to enjoy lunch with a view!
Two routes cross the Cascades west of Bend, the Santiam Pass (Route 126) we had just driven and the McKenzie Pass (Route 280) we had not yet seen.
For one month each spring the McKenzie Pass Scenic Byway is opened strictly to bicycle traffic. We hit it with our mountain bikes on the last day that bikes ruled the road.
Riding our bikes up steep McKenzie Pass we were humbled to
see a guy doing it on a unicycle!!
After a long grind to the top and a screaming descent back down to the bottom, we noticed a fellow doing the ride on a unicycle.
This wasn’t his first time either. He told us he’d ridden to the summit on his unicycle each weekend since the route opened to bikes four weeks earlier. What’s more, he was part of a unicycling mountain bike club.
And here we’d been patting ourselves on the back for conquering McKenzie Pass and romping around the area’s mountain biking trails on our two wheeled bikes.
Without a doubt, the area around Bend, Oregon, was continuing to impress us with its gorgeous rivers, streams and lakes and its vigorous and irreverent spirit!
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June, 2014 – We had dashed across Nevada and Oregon, zipped through Crater Lake, and come to central Oregon because we had mountain biking on our minds. Bend, Oregon, is reputed to be one of the biggest mountain biking meccas around, and we were eager to get out on the trails and give it a try. First we got our feet wet…well, we whetted our appetites, I should say, at Diamond Lake.
On the jetty at Diamond Lake
What a cool little rig…
If there’s one thing we’ve learned during all these years of living this crazy traveling lifestyle, it’s never to leave home without a camera.
The debate, though, is whether to take the big camera or the small one.
Of course, everyone knows that the best camera in the world is the one you have with you.
“Cowgirls are Forever!”
This morning we had a brief errand to run at Walmart.
As we were walking out the door we looked at our big cameras lying on the sofa.
What could we possibly see in the next hour between our campsite and Walmart that would be worth photographing?
It was a rainy, gloomy day. There was no chance we’d see anything exciting.
“We have more fun than anyone!”
So off we went, each with our little snapshot cameras in our pockets.
When we pulled into the Walmart parking lot, Mark suddenly pointed.
“Look! It’s your gals — Sisters on the Fly!”
Lo and behold, a brightly painted vintage travel trailer was parked right in front of us, with the words “Sisters on the Fly” emblazoned on the side.
We both jumped out of the truck and ran over, so glad to have our pocket cameras with us.
“Honor the earth for all her beauty.”
When we looked around the parking lot, we realized this adorable red and white trailer wasn’t the only one in the lot!
Colorfully painted trailers were parked all over the place.
And grinning women with their hair blowing in the breeze were piling out of the trucks and cars that were towing them.
Suddenly, I found myself standing with three lovely ladies learning about their upcoming adventure weekend.
A group of Flying Sisters was headed to Idaho for a weekend of camping, late night chats, kayaking, cocktails, fishing and hiking.
Most were driving their own trailers to Idaho, but a few from Arizona were flying in to stay in cabins at the gathering place.
The most important thing about the weekend was that their hubbies were staying at home.
How fun!!
Catch that moon!
“What I love about this group is that we get to do what we want to do.” One woman was telling me.
“We talk, we shop, we stay up late and chit-chat, and when we travel we don’t have to listen to someone whining, ‘We saw this already, why do we have to see it again?'”
We all laughed.
“Cowgirls rule the planets!”
What a great idea and what a terrific group of women they were.
This wasn’t our first encounter with Sisters on the Fly, however.
Five years earlier, while camping at the White Tanks Regional Park in Phoenix, Arizona, we had found ourselves amid an equally lively group of women adventurers.
To think that I saw it at Walmart!
An elegant bohemian belle…
They had been camping in charming antique trailers just like these, all done up and painted up, each one cute as a button.
When that friendly group of gals in Phoenix had told me about their intriguing club, a few of them had even given me tours of their sweet little rigs.
(See our blog post about it here).
Re-reading that post this evening, I see that back in 2009 their numbers were 1,000 strong. Today, these women told me, in June, 2014, Sisters on the Fly has over 5,000 members!!
“Boots, beer and bling – It’s a cowgirl thing!”
This little group was at Walmart for just a brief pit-stop.
No sooner had I met a few gals and started chatting than a signal came from the wagon master and it was time for them to return to their rigs and hit the road.
Mark — always so sweet and patient with this kind of thing — quietly took photos from a safe distance while I ran around between them like a madwoman.
After all, our little errand to pick up a few cans of soup could wait a few minutes!
“Head ’em up, move ’em out!”
The colorful vintage rigs began to move.
They circled the parking lot in a small proud parade as they made their way over to the exit.
“I saw you guys in Phoenix five years ago!” I yelled at one gal driving past me.
“I was there!” She called out as she disappeared around the bend.
“Cowgirl Moon-Inn”
Once they had all pulled away and we were walking into the store, I could only laugh and shake my head at my indecision this morning. Big camera or small? Gosh, I sure wish I’d taken the big one…
To learn more about Sisters on the Fly, click here. To see some other fun rigs we’ve come across in our travels, click here.
May, 2014 – After recovering from our mad dash across northern Nevada and southern Oregon, our first priority was to visit Crater Lake National Park. We had heard about this beautiful park many times over the years, and now we were blessed with the most perfect weather to go see it on the Saturday of Memorial Day Weekend.
Wow – the snow is waist deep!
As we approached the park, we suddenly found ourselves driving between banks of snow.
We had seen ankle deep snow in lovely Lamoille Canyon back in Nevada, but this stuff was waist deep! Continue reading