Saguaros and Sunsets in Phoenix Arizona

Buggy boondocking in Arizona

The buggy is at home in the desert.

January, 2014 – It was so great to be back in the Arizona desert in Phoenix. Once we got set up and acclimated to life in the rig, we instantly got caught up in the beauty of our surroundings.

Camera on tripod

The cameras got a workout here!

Whether it was sunrise or sunset or sometime in between, we found ourselves running in and out of the trailer to catch this image or that and then pour over it on the computer.

Evening photo from fifth wheel roof

Some pics are best taken from the roof!

 

 

 

During the last few months we have changed all the tools we use for photography. We moved up from Nikon D5100 cameras to D610’s, and we switched our computer software from Apple’s Aperture to Adobe’s Lightroom.

Mark has loved learning post-processing, that is, working with photos on the computer, and he has become very proficient with Lightroom.

View from our RV at sunset

Fire in the sky! Mark loves creating dramatic effects with Lightroom

I, on the other hand, have spent a lot of time being totally lost!

I could never seem to find the buttons I wanted on the camera, and Lightroom was a vast maze of clickable things that generated totally unexpected results in the images on the computer.

This was the beginning of a very long learning curve — for both of us.

Sunset with our RV

We had a few truly stunning sunsets

Whereas Mark had spent the last few years getting to know the mechanics behind photography in a very intimate way, I had been focused entirely on getting the hang of composition.

And each of us was at sea in the other’s territory.

“What buttons do I push?” I would ask.

“Where do I point my camera?” He would respond.

It was very funny — and very enlightening.

We decided that we needed to teach each other all we knew and learn each others’ skills.

I complained bitterly as I fumbled with the knobs on the tripod and missed shot after shot because I couldn’t get the legs, or the head — or any of it, for that matter — to do what I wanted.

Arizona sunset near Phoenix

An Arizona sunset

I’d look over and he would have gotten set up in an instant. But sometimes he didn’t seem to line himself up to get the most exciting image.

“Try moving over this way a bit more,” I said one time, “and zoom in so you get the saguaro, barrel cactus and the mountain balancing each other.”

“Oh WOW!” He said. “Here I was trying to put that pile of dead roots in the foreground and you’ve got this great image…”

Mark with his tripod

Mark is at ease with his tripod.

Very funny! But I was still flummoxed over my own issues. “How do I get the camera on and off of this thing?” I sighed. I felt so silly asking for the umpteenth time. I vowed I’d remember this time as he showed me yet again.

Saguaro skeleton in the Phoenix desert

We came across an old saguaro skeleton

What a miracle it was to discover that we each had something really valuable to give to the other.

Sonoran desert scenery: saguaro, barrel cactus and a mountain

A big saguaro and a little barrel cactus converse

This became apparent again when Mark ran out to get some night shots one balmy evening. I had had enough trouble with the tripod during the day — and now we were going to do it in the dark? Are you kidding?

Saguaro Pair

BFF’s

Saguaro and moon at dusk in Arizona

Mark captures a saguaro with the moon at dusk

He gleefully set up the camera and promptly got a beautiful shot of a saguaro and the moon before I’d even gotten my camera secured on the tripod and turned it on. He made it look so easy.

On another night he said, “I want to do some star shots,” as he dashed out the door. I hurried behind and watched as he effortlessly got set up and hit a few buttons on the camera.

He played with 30 second exposures and 90 second exposures while I looked on trying to memorize which buttons he’d just hit and why. But the images lacked spunk.

 

Fifth wheel trailer RV under Orion

The Orion constellation rises behind our buggy

“Hey, let’s try to get Orion rising over the rig!!” I suggested.

“Ooooh! I never thought of that!” He came running around to where I was and helped me get some of the settings going: long exposure, fixed ISO, noise reduction, manual focus, self-timer. Yikes! I took a few shots and finally got a keeper.

Collaborative photography. I love it!

Hiking shoes at RV our door

How many people live here?

The next day we decided to go hiking in the desert.

How funny it is now, after living barefoot on a boat in the tropics for so long (to the point where we forgot what shoes felt like on our feet), to look down and see this pile of hiking, running and cycling shoes at our door.

Desert Road near Anthem Arizona

 

 

 

Saguaro conversation

“The trail goes thataway”

We hiked Daisy Mountain trail at the north end of Anthem, a pretty and easy trail that goes through some beautiful desert scenery.

Saguaro cactus in the Sonoran Desert

This is a hold up!

What I love about the Sonoran desert is the crazy saguaro cactus.

Each one has a unique personality, and some seem to be deep in conversation.

As we tromped around, I felt a little like I was eavesdropping on some of these guys, listening in on what they had to say to each other.

Arizona barrel cactus

A male barrel cactus

Of course, nature has its whimsical side too, and Mark was laughing when he came over to show off his picture of a very male cactus.

Cactus needles in hiking shoe

That’s what you get when you stomp around in the desert

It’s a prickly business, walking in the desert, and when I looked at the bottom of my hiking shoes, they were filled with cactus needles.

Saguaro on a tilt

This reminded me of an intriguing woman we had met a week earlier at a supermarket Starbucks one morning.

She was wearing a bulky, navy blue down-filled snow jacket, the northern states kind that you never see in Phoenix, and she had on grubby, mud-encrusted hiking boots. There were mud splatters on her pants, and her eyes were red-rimmed and tired.

Closeup of Arizona saguaro cactus

She approached me and asked in a strong British accent if she could borrow my cell phone.

She gestured helplessly at her phone and sniffed from the cold. “This English phone can’t get a signal…”

Mark lines up a Sonoran desert photo

Mark lines up a photo of a saguaro…

Standing Saguaro in Phoenix

…his favorite shot was from the other side!

Saguaro cactus, master of the Sonoran desert

Saguaros grow all different ways

This made me laugh, and I explained to her that although I’d be happy to lend her my phone, we were the only people on the planet who don’t have one.

She gave me a lopsided smile and sat down with her coffee, clearly savoring the heat and steam coming from the cup.

Sonoran desert cactus

Classic Sonoran desert

She piqued my curiosity. Where was she from and what was she up to? I got up the nerve to ask.

“I’m here for a week,” she said. “I just flew in yesterday afternoon, and I have been out in the desert all night.”

My jaw dropped.

“Yeah, I was walking in the desert all night long.” She said, seeming not to believe it herself. “I don’t normally look like this. I clean up really well! I had a marvelous time out there.”

She went on: “I’m on a spiritual journey, and I had a series of rituals to do during the night. I saw a lot of animals out there, some javelina and jack rabbits. I saw a cat-like animal too. I don’t know what it was. It had rings on its tail…”

I shook my head in amazement as I listened to her. You don’t hear English accents in Phoenix too often, and I’ve never met a desert night wanderer, especially one who’s been out communing with the desert spirits and running into coatimundi in her meanderings.

Curvy saguaro cactus

Probably this guy’s life history wasn’t quite what he expected!

One of my favorite things about our travels is the people we meet, and especially having the time to talk to them.

“I forgot how cold it is in the desert at night!” She was saying. Brrrr. I can only imagine!

Like the saguaros, we are all so unique.

Some of us grow straight and tall, but others of us have special curves and bends, especially as we get older, because oftentimes life doesn’t turn out quite the way we plan.

 

Sun star burst effect on a saguaro cactus

The sun peeks out from behind a saguaro

Mark set up a gorgeous photo of the sun peeking around a saguaro in a starburst. Wow!

When I saw a beautiful sunset developing I was bound and determined to get a stunning shot of some kind too.

The clouds looked like they were going to explode in color, and I chose a pretty ocotillo that would make a perfect silhouette spray across the red and orange backdrop.

I set up the tripod so the camera was hanging upside down just above the ground, got it all focused, and then stood and waited.

Ocotillo cactus at sunset in Arizona

The much awaited ocotillo sunset shot… oh well.

This is not my way. When the sun hits the “golden hour” just before sunset, I usually run around like a madwoman shooting everything in sight.

But I wanted to learn more technically, so I folded my arms and bit my lip while I saw miracle photo after miracle photo glowing gold all around me. Arghh!

Then, to my horror, I watched my beautiful cloud pattern completely dissipate. The sun went down, and the clouds vanished! Not fair!

I took a few of my upside down ocotillo shots, with one lone cloud hovering to the side. What a disappointment.

Gathering up my gear, and wondering where in the world Mark had disappeared to, I trudged away.

After a hundred yards or so, I looked up and discovered a brilliant sunset had materialized out of thin air, and off in the distance stood the most perfect saguaro!

I ran full speed down to the cactus hoping to catch it in time, my loaded fanny pack, camera, tripod and Hoodman loupe bouncing around as I ran. With the camera still attached to the tripod, I lifted the whole thing into the air to get my shots, laughing along with the chortling cactus wrens that were scurrying around me.

Classic Phoenix - Saguaro cactus at sunset

My impromptu shot taken with the tripod dangling from the camera

This tripod technique is strictly verboten, totally amateurish, and hopefully in the future I’ll learn to react fast enough to get the composition I want with the legs of the tripod still firmly planted on the ground. But, for now, it worked!

In my excitement, I had set my sunglasses down somewhere, and I searched around but never found them. Meanwhile, Mark was calling me on the radio from the trail head wondering what had happened to me.

Home sweet home - our RV at dusk

Home sweet home.

I was totally elated, totally out of breath, and I chatted away on the radio with him the whole way back down the trail as darkness stole over the desert. By the time I saw his flashlight waving at the trail head, the world was pitch dark around me.

The desert is a magical place at night… and I understand its spiritual lure… but it sure was nice to see our cozy warm buggy waiting for us after being chased down that last bit of the trail by the cold, searching fingers of the night’s icy air.

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Phoenix Sonoran Preserve – A City Escape

Sonoran Desert Preserve

Apache Wash trailhead at the Sonoran Desert Preserve

Phoenix, Arizona, is a huge sprawling city that seems to creep further out into the desert with every passing day.

Each time we return to our old stomping grounds, we are surprised anew at all the changes.

Saguaro Cactus up close

Every saguaro cactus has its own personality

Roads we used to know like the backs of our hands now leave us utterly lost because we can’t find any of the old familiar landmarks.

With that kind of growth, and with new construction gobbling up the precious Sonoran desert at a scary-fast pace, it often seems that there can’t possibly be any open space left for the leisurely enjoyment of nature.

Before we leave on our hike

We didn’t get far before we stopped to take some photos

Everything within many miles of Phoenix has become either a master-planned community or a strip mall.

So we were utterly astonished when our friends Charlie and Cathie, who spend every free moment riding their bikes around town or hiking the many nearby mountains, asked us if we’d heard about the new road called Sonoran Desert Drive.

Lush Sonoran Desert

The Sonoran desert is very lush with
rich (and prickly) vegetation

New roads go in all the time, but they seemed truly excited about this one.  “It’s eight miles long, has a great bike lane, no traffic, and is surrounded on both sides by open desert as far as you can see.”

In Phoenix?  Impossible! We had to go check it out.

Sure enough, this beautiful, brand new parkway runs between Cave Creek Road and Dynamite on its eastern end and Dove Valley Road and North Valley Parkway to the west, without a hint of housing or development or urban living of any kind except at the cluster of homes tucked into its far western end.

Jumping cholla cactus

A “jumping” or “teddy bear” cholla cactus

For about 8 miles, this parkway bisects a huge, square tract of open desert.  Whoever knew that was there?  When you are scurrying around the housing-lined city streets, zooming up this road and down that one, there’s no way of knowing what’s in back of it all.

Better yet, right smack in the center of this vast piece of land is the brand new Apache Wash trailhead that is now part of the Sonoran Desert Preserve system.

Saguaro with starburst

The sun peaks around a cactus in a starburst

The first time we drove along this parkway and hiked the trail, in December, the trail had been open for just a few weeks.

Groups of people with water bottles, hiking shoes, fanny packs and safari hats stood around in front of the brand new trail maps deciding which of the many choices of routes to try first.

Teddy bear cholla

The hummingbirds need those long beaks to drink the nectar without getting spiked!

Near the shade ramadas, a sun dial looking statue turned out to be a pointer system to the mountains in the distance.

Trail hiking to saguaro cactus

This is a very beautiful trail to hike

The McDowells, Four Peaks and other mountains that surround Phoenix at distances of ten to thirty miles could all be spotted by lining up the pointer.

What a cool park!  And what luck that we happened to visit just after a big rain.  The air was as clear and crisp as could be, and the views to the horizon were haze free.

We set out on one of the trails at random, and of course we didn’t get very far before we had to start taking pictures.

This is a lush part of the Sonoran desert, rich with saguaro cactus, ocotillo and the many scrubby low lying bushes that always blanket the desert in pastel shades of gray and green.

Mountain biker

The trail is open to mountain bikers…

Jumping cholla, or “teddy bear” cholla (pronounced “choy-ya”), are the short, cute, pale, fuzzy many-armed cactus that look so cuddly.

But if you get some skin, or clothes, or hiking shoes anywhere near their barbed needles, they will cling to you for all they’re worth. That’s how they got the reputation of jumping!

 

Girl mountain biker

…and they were all having a blast on the trail!

If you step on one of their little round balls of needles that they shed so freely all around them, you will need a pair of pliers and a lot of patience to get all the needles out of the soles of your shoes!

I looked up when I heard the sound of wheels crunching the dirt, and suddenly saw a mountain biker barreling down towards us.

The trails are open to mountain bikers, and they all seemed to be loving their ride.

Saguaro cactus

A saguaro tells a funny tale to an audience of barrel cactus

Open sonoran desert

Turning 360 degrees at the summit we saw wide open desert in every direction

Horse hoof prints in the mud

Horse shoe prints in the hardened mud.

Saguaro cactus

Vast openness…
Ahhh… you can breathe!

 

 

 

The trail snaked around the backside of a hill and made a gradual climb.

As we ascended, I was astonished to look out across the valley and see nothing but desert vegetation.

We were in the middle of pristine Sonoran desert, and there wasn’t a home to be seen except right along the edges of the mountains on the horizon.

I heard a bird singing the most beautiful song.

 

 

He was just chirping away in the warm morning sun.  I finally spotted him sitting in the branches of a Palo Verde tree on the hillside.

Horseback rider

A horseback rider comes past.

It wasn’t a song I recognized, and I switched lenses really fast hoping to get his picture.

But my rustling around frightened him and he flew off. Or maybe it wasn’t the noise I was making…maybe it was the noise of the horses coming down the path!

We had seen horse hoof footprints in the hardened mud, and we had seen horse trailers down in the parking lot, but it was still pretty exciting when they came walking down the trail and passed us.

What a classic western image it made when they walked along the trail and off into the distance!

Horses on hiking trail

How beautiful to watch the horses walk off the “movie set” scene into the distance!

Closeup of cholla flower

A cholla flower

As we took a different route back and wound our way down the mountain towards the parking lot, I kept thinking how wonderful it is that a place like this has been built.

Saguaro cactus reflected in pool

Reflections on a beautiful walk in the desert…

Later, a little online research revealed that this trailhead was funded in part by the neighborhoods that abut the land, and that the Sonoran Desert Preserve is still expanding.  Just a week prior to our first hike there, another 600+ acres had been set aside.

The Sonoran desert is a rare treasure that exists only in Arizona and Sonora, Mexico, and my heart breaks every time I see it being bulldozed for housing.

Bravo to the city planners that decided to create this park, and even better still, to make it open and available to everyone.

We have been enjoying getting reacquainted with the Phoenix area so much this winter — and we have been blessed with such unseasonably warm and sunny weather — that we’ll be sticking around a while and doing more desert explorations!

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Arizona, Here We Come – Space Aliens of All Kinds!

Arizona sunset with saguaro

Arizona’s beautiful scenery beckons us

December, 2013 – After saying goodbye to our sailboat Groovy in San Diego, we pointed our truck towards Phoenix, Arizona. The truck bed was piled high with all of our stuff, and a new life waited for us down the road in our trailer.

We decided to take it slow on our way there.

We were both quiet and lost in thought as we began to climb through the hilly area that separates the moist and green San Diego coast from the flat, brown, dry deserts to the east.

Spaceships and aliens outside San Diego

Strange alien spaceships and motorhomes on I-8

It’s a region of towering hills made of huge boulders that look like a giant bulldozer just dropped its load of rocks.

Alien in a space craft

Yup, that’s an alien in there!

We had driven through this area many times, and every time we noticed a very strange collection of aliens, spacecraft and RVs parked off the side of the road.

This time, rather than keep going as usual, Mark decided to pull off the highway.

“I’ve always wondered about this place.”  He said as he parked and reached in the back seat for his camera.  We both hopped out and began to roam around.

 

Aliens in a motorhome

Aliens in a motorhome too…

This funny place is a classic little piece of roadside Americana.

Someone has put alien figures inside of spaceships, motorhomes and assorted chairs and cars all along a frontage road.

They’re the kind of aliens that have the slanted, almond eyes and small mouths set in lightbulb shaped heads.  So strange!

We wandered among these weird creatures, mystified.  Who put this here?  And why?  It’s crazy, but it’s fun!

 

Aliens sitting in chairs near San Diego

And there are some aliens sitting around in chairs!

There’s a tower at the top of the hill that appears to be a museum, but there was a sign saying “Sorry, we’re closed today.”  Oh well, next time!

When we got to Phoenix, we went straight to the storage facility where our fifth wheel had been patiently waiting for us for over a year.

I think it was very excited to see us, but when it saw the load in the back of the truck, its knees appeared to buckle a little.

 

RV in storage

Our buggy has waited patiently in storage

It was already a fully outfitted home, and now we were bringing endless boxes of stuff back to it that had absolutely nowhere to go.

Yet it was all great stuff that we couldn’t bear to part with.  Ugh!

How do you combine two households into one, especially when the one you’re moving into is 350 square feet?  You’ve gotta make some tough choices.

Mark washes our fifth wheel

The buggy gets a bath

And so it was.  This spatula or that spatula?  This set of socket wrenches or that one?

And what to do with all those awesome but unused stainless steel fasteners and spare parts we’d bought for the boat?  They might prove useful out on some remote road someday.

At the Goodwill Donations drop-off

We made many trips to Goodwill!

And all that clothing.  Oh my goodness!  We could have dressed an army — in bathing suits and tank tops!

Over the ensuing weeks we became regulars at the Goodwill drop-off center, and slowly our mountain of bins in the back of the truck dwindled to the point where we could actually find homes for everything inside the trailer.

Mercury hot rod

A Mercury bared its teeth at us!

This isn’t the kind of project that makes either of us leap out of bed in the morning with excitement.

So we took our time as the holidays approached and did lots of other things.

While out driving around in Cave Creek one day, we bumped into a car show.

 

Cool trike on the road in Phoenix

Smooth ride…

Mark can never pass up a chance to mingle with muscle cars, so we stopped to have a look.

Arizona is a mecca for car enthusiasts, whether they are buying new exotics from the row of Maserati, Lotus, Ferarri and other dealerships in Scottsdale, or primping their old cars for shows like this.

There were hot rods and rat rods and souped up cars of all kinds from yesteryear.

There were even some unusual motorcycles, including a few trikes that rumbled down the road.

 

Dirt bike jump acrobatics

A dirt biker does acrobatics over the crowd

What really caught our attention, however, was the dirt bike jumping show.

As the announcer began his patter on the microphone, we looked up to see a dirt bike flying high above the crowd.

Flying dirt bike

Dirt bike somersault

Dirt bike daredevils

Leaping motocross riders

Wow!  Those guys are crazy!!  They were all young boys in their late teens — one was only 16 — and with every jump, they soared higher and higher, doing wild and daring tricks in the air.

I was awestruck.  We’ve seen this kind of stuff on TV, of course, but it was different to be standing so close that when they landed we could reach out and touch them.

 

Dirt bike wheelie

These daredevils were amazing

At the end they all did wheelies past the crowd.

A more peaceful way to take to the skies around Phoenix is to go up in a balloon, and every morning the horizon was filled with them.

Balloons in Phoenix

Balloons soaring…no acrobatics!

Balloon ride over Arizona

With a pretty cactus

Sometimes we could hear the roar of their flame heaters before we saw them.

Balloons in the sky in Phoenix

The balloons make beautiful patterns in the sky

The balloons made wonderful, everchanging patterns in the air.  Floating around in slow motion, they’d move up and down and drift past each other.

We were both so happy to be back in the desert.  There is something about the Sonoran desert that is really appealing.

 

Sonoran desert sunset in Arizona

We just love the Sonoran desert

The cactus are so stately, and the sunsets are so colorful and varied.

Our son went tent camping at Cave Creek Recreational Area campground, and we spent a few hours with him at his campsite.

The campground was filled with RVs, and they all looked so snug and homey. Many of them had Christmas lights on.

We hung around the campfire, relishing the smell of mesquite wood that filled the air.

Even a brief downpour didn’t dampen our spirits, although we scampered off into the truck for the worst of it.

RV at campground at night

Cave Creek campground was full of RVs — and they looked so cozy and inviting!

Campfire in Cave Creek Arizona

And what a great campfire too…

We suddenly had such a longing to get back into our fifth wheel.  “Soon, soon!” we told ourselves.

Fake fireplace at Christmas

The little fake fireplace set just the right mood next to the tree…

Santa brings lots of presents

Santa brought joy to everyone

In the meantime, though, the holidays were here and were wonderful. This was the first Christmas we had spent with our family in five years, and the coziness around the little fake fireplace in the living room was just as intimate and heartwarming as the real thing outdoors.

Santa came with a bountiful array of gifts for everyone, and we spent a marvelous holiday season immersed in the world of our young granddaughters, where innocence, iPod games, Wii dancing, pizza and Barbie rule.  Whew!!

Our urge to set up housekeeping in our beloved buggy couldn’t be put off any longer, though, and the arrival of the new year saw us squeezing ourselves into the trailer alongside the last few boxes of unsorted stuff for an overnight, even though it was still parked in storage with no room to open the slides.

RV at sunset - the angels sing!

Our buggy was glowing when it found out we were going out adventuring together.

Riding our bikes once again

…and we were glowing too.

Within a few days we were out on our own again, the slides pushed out, the last boxes of things sorted and stored, and our spirits sky high.

We grabbed our bikes, suited up in our new Mexican “Bi-Zihuanas” cycling jerseys — gifts from our friend Alejandro who owns the very cool Bi-Zihuanas bike shop in Zihuatanejo (story here about 1/2 way down the page) — and we set out to ride the fabulous bike lanes of greater Phoenix into the far reaches of the desert.

It was our first real bike ride in ages, and it felt so good.

The wind was at our backs, the sun was on our faces, and we were so thrilled be alive and so excited to be looking down the road towards the fun of travel and exploration once again.

 

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San Diego Treats – Balboa and Sunset Cliffs

Balboa Park Palm and Flowers

Flowers abound at Balboa Park

Fall, 2013 – Living on San Diego’s beautiful shores is a true delight, not only becuase there is always so much going on, but because it is so close to all that San Diego has to offer.

One of the prettiest places in the city is Balboa Park, and we enjoyed several wonderful excusrions there.

Balboa Park Lilly Pond

The Lilly Pond at Balboa Park

Balboa Park is a big city park filled with all kinds of flora and fauna along with several miles of hiking trails.

Balboa Pond Koi Fish

A koi fish swims past

Perhaps the most lovely area is around the koi fish pond where there are some beautiful old buildings and some very colorful koi fish swimming just below the surface.

This is a great place to take a stroll and soak in a little sunshine and relaxation.

Balboa Park Pond Reflections

Reflected beauty at Balboa Park

Balboa Park Flower

Of course, it is a city park and, on the day we were there, a fellow was spouting bible verses and personal philosophies at very high volume, echoing his thoughts about life off the walls of the stone building at the top of his lungs, pontificating to anyone that would stop and listen.

I listened for a few minutes but couldn’t make heads or tails out of what he was saying!

Lilies in lily pond

However, the water was utterly still, and as clear as could be, creating lovely reflections.

The pretty lilies floating between the pads seemed to smile up at the world.

A hummingbird flitting between the many flowers added his own buzz to the air.

A beautiful indoor botanical garden fills one of the buildings near the koi fish pond, and a meander through there took us past all kinds of exotic flowers.

 

Hummingbird

A hummingbird checks out the flowers too

This reminded us so much of our extraordinary visit to the orchards and gardens of Hagia Sofia near Huatulco, Mexico last winter.

We both contented ourselves for quite a while taking photos of the colorful display.

Heart shaped leaves

Bullseye hearts…

There is a kind of romance to the area, and we both had to laugh when we saw several plants that had leaves shaped like swirling hearts.

 

Em and M in flowers

Amid the orchids

We were happy when someone offered to take a picture of us amid the orchids!!

Other people hired professional photographers to take their portraits around the beautiful grounds of Balboa Park.

Portraits in Balboa Park

Professional photographers were taking portraits everywhere!

We admired more than a few professional camera setups, with big flashes, lighting umbrellas, enormous lenses and teams of assistants helping out.

Quniceanera

A young girl at her Quincenera

And more than once we turned a corner to see a portrait shot that would soon be framed.

We even saw a young Mexican girl in the midst of a Quinceañera photo shoot, all dressed up for her special 15th birthday party.  This was like so many others we had seen in Mexico, especially in Ensenada and Morelia.

12 Balboa Park Organ Concert 481

One of the most unusual attractions in Balboa Park is the enormous outdoor organ.

When the organ was donated to the park by John and Adolph Spreckels in 1914, the one stipulation was that it be played for outdoor concerts, and since 1917 San Diego has had a civic organist who performs free weekly concerts on Sundays.

While we were there a small audience gathered in front of the organ, taking shade under colorful umbrellas.  Before long, the enormous rolling door opened to reveal the huge organ pipes.  The 4500+ pipes range in size from as small as a pencil to as big as 32 feet high!

A woman walked out on stage and began an hour-long concert.

13 Ocean Beach Hippie Hostel 531

The hostel at Ocean Beach – Peace Baby!!

Wow.  That is quite a musical instrument!

Unfortunately, she chose some really chaotic sounding modern music to play, and as we walked away we could hear the cacophany of clashing chords far into the corners of the park.

Oh well.  We’ll have to return on another day when the performer chooses something a little more melodic and soothing!!

Balboa Park is situated right downtown.  To the north of the city there are several big beach communities, and one of the most notable is Ocean Beach, a hippie seaside town that has decided to remain firmly planted in the 1960’s.

The prominent hostel is painted a kaleidescope of groovy colors and sports a big peace sign on its rooftop.

14 Ocean Beach Tumblebug 431

A tumble bug!

Walking down the street, the smell of patchouli incense wafted out of the doorways of several head shops.

Oddly, this wasn’t a town of pony-tailed grey-hairs who used to be hippies in their youth, but instead was loaded with younger folks who are embracing the hippie way today.

Even though Starbucks has come to town, we noticed that the only identifying feature on the outside of the building was the circular green logo.

Down an allyway, Mark spotted a tumble bug.  Far out!

 

15 Woodie 451

You never know what you’ll see rolling down the street…

California has such a great car culture.  Something exotic always seems to be cruising past, and I just barely caught this low-riding woody as it sped by.

Mark on Stand-up paddleboard

Mark tries out a standup paddle board
at the Hobie open house

One day we had a chance to try out cruising of another kind.  The local Hobie dealership hosted an open house, and all their water toys were lined up at the docks. We could try out anything that seemed appealing!

We’d never tried standup paddle boarding before, and we both got a big kick out of it.

A few days later at nearby Torrey Pines we watched a really skilled stand-up paddle-boarder carve through the surf. So that’s how you do it!

Torrey Pines Surfing

A pro shows us how it’s done

Sunset Cliffs is a series of craggy cliffs nearby, and we scampered over these rugged rocks to check out the tidepools one afternoon.

This is a photogenic area, and there were photographers everywhere trying to capture the beauty.

Sunset Cliffs Staircase

The staircase down to the sea at Sunset Cliffs

As we climbed down the endless stairs at one viewpoint, a pair of young photographers with mammoth cameras and lighting gear were coming up the stairs towards us.

Tucked between the two of them was a young barefoot woman with a bare torso and bare legs. She was clutching a woolly sheepskin to her chest.

Sunset Cliffs Tidepools

Sunset Cliffs has some exquisite tidepools

As we got closer, it didn’t look like she had much clothing on besides this piece of sheepskin.  Sure enough, after she passed us we noticed there was nothing covering her backside!

I guess they were doing modeling shots at the water’s edge “au natural!”

Sunset Cliffs Rock Island

Surf at Sunset Cliffs

Pelicans in formation

Pelicans fly in formation

We stuck to photographing Nature itself and looked up to see a group of pelicans flying in formation overhead.

Well, not everything around here was pure nature. As the pelicans disappeared over the horizon, three Navy helicopters flew in formation in the opposite direction.

Helicopters in formation

Helicopters fly in formation

Sunset Cliffs is beautiful in broad daylight, but the place really comes to life as the sun begins to drop out of the sky.

The cliffs face west, and just before the sky begins to turn colors, cars begin to arrive and people begin to mill around the edges of the cliffs to take in the sunset.

Sunset at Sunset Cliffs

People gather to watch the sun disappear at Sunset Cliffs

Some couples bring chairs or stand close to each other and stare off at the horizon.  Some folks take out their cameras and wait for the magic moment.  And a few others do yoga and tai-chi moves.

However it is that they all say goodbye to the day, there is a shared awe and respect among everyone at the cliffs’ edge as they look out over the ocean to watch the sun’s light show and welcomes the arrival of night.

Sunset at Sunset Cliffs

We are rewarded with a humdinger of a sunset!

As fall slipped towards winter, we had been living in San Diego aboard our sailboat Groovy for four months. Much as this beautiful city and lifestyle enchanted us, our eyes were now turning towards our new land-based life that would soon begin 350 miles inland in Arizona.

 

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Our beloved sailboat Groovy is For Sale

On San Diego’s Shores – Dolphins and more!

Fishing on Shelter Island

Not a bad spot to go fishing!

Fall, 2013 – I was standing on Shelter Island one morning, gazing out at the water and the San Diego skyline and watching the fishermen casting their lines while boats breezed by.

Suddenly, a fellow standing next to me said, “You know, I’ve lived in San Diego for 56 years, and I watched that skyline develop.”

He went on: “There used to be just one tall building there, and now you can’t even see it because there are so many others all around it. But I have to say, I think San Diego has the pretties skyline of any city.”

 

Shelter Island Tree

San Diego Bay

I had to agree. There is something about the shapes and colors of the buildings and the way they catch the light in the afternoons that is so apealing.

And the great thing about this city is that you can play outdoors in fairly warm temps all year long.

Kid in a sailboat sculpture

Lots of kids get an early start learning
to sail in San Diego

As summer melted into fall, we did have to wear an extra layer of clothing, but the fishermen continued to fish at the water’s edge and the sailors continued to play with the wind in the bay.

Lots of sailors get an early start at a young age here, and down at the San Diego Yacht Club there is a wonderful statue of a little kid in a sailboat.

Out on the water in Mission Bay, we saw a sailing class, or maybe a race, cruising past us one morning.

Optimas at Mission Bay

Learning to sail on Mission Bay

Some lucky little kids get to take their first steps on a boat, and so it was with our very young neighbor.

His parents Eric and Christi had done a two year cruise around the world on a Nordhavn 43 power yacht a few years back.

After returning to San Diego to restock their cruising kitty, they had a baby, and they now have plans to cruise to the South Pacific in a few years, once their baby’s sea legs have grown a little sturdier.

born to cruise

Born to cruise!

They had never sailed overnight or offshore before that journey, and their first offshore voyage took them straight from San Diego to the Marquesas, a 3000 mile, three week long trip!

One of the advantages of cruising in a power boat is that you don’t have to worry about which way the wind blows.

So, unlike sailboats that cross the Pacific by dropping down south into Mexico first before they leave the North American coast, these guys just motored out of San Diego Bay and kept right on going!

 

Rocket Science leaves San Diego 601

s/v Rocket Science heads south

We loved meeting all the sailors on the docks that had cruised to distant shores.

Our next door neighbor Brian had cruised to New Zealand ten years ago, and friends of ours, TJ and Jenny, had cruised the Caribbean extensively.

They had done that cruise on a solid, older boat, but after a while grew frustrated at its slow pace.

Why plod when you can soar, they wondered. So they upgraded to a true racer-cruiser — s/v Rocket Science — that can sail at blistering speeds, and they plan to take her on new adventures in Europe.

Sailboat and carrier

Friends on both boats!

During their maiden voyage aboard Rocket Science, first mate Jenny had watched in astonishment as the knot meter climbed from 10 knots to the high 12’s in a matter of minutes while she was alone in the cockpit.

When the boat hit the mid-13’s knots, she yelled down into the cabin at her husband, the captain, “TJ, you’d better get up here!”.

He came running up, totally thrilled at the speed, and they continued their sleigh ride into the mid-17’s.

That’s like going 150 mph in a car!

 

USS Ronald Reagan

USS Ronald Reagan is greeted by helicopters

We watched them slip out of San Diego harbor en route to Norway via Central America. What a voyage!

As they disappeared into the distance at the mouth of San Diego bay, an aircraft carrier appeared on the horizon returning from exercises at sea.

We watched the two boats approaching each other, and suddenly realized we had friends on both boats, because a young friend of ours in the Navy is stationed on that carrier, the USS Ronald Reagan.

Of course, our cruising friends left the bay without too much fanfare, other than us standing on the shore snapping photos and waving.

But the aircraft carrier was greeted by a trio of Navy helicopters flying in formation!

Dolphin leaping in San Diego bay

A dolphin suddenly leaps by our boat

We got out on the bay in our own boat Groovy early one morning, and were astonished by the greeting we received when a dolphin leapt high out of the water nearby.

Dolphin jumping out of the water

The dolphin paused for treats between leaps!

We discovered that this dolphin was an enlisted Navy sailor too.

Working with civilian trainers in an inflatable dinghy, he was leaping on command and getting yummy fish treats in return for his efforts.

What a beautiful creature.

I hope he gets a nice pension for his years of service.

 

San Diego dolphin jumping

Dolphin leaps in the air

 

Dolphin leaps clear out of the water

Such a thrill to see!

Fort Rosecrans Cemetery

Fort Rosecrans Cemetery

San Diego’s close relationship with the Navy goes way back, and high up on Point Loma there is a Navy cemetery with hundreds of tombstones lined up on rolling, green, grassy lawns.

The cemetery has views of both the bay and the ocean, and the endless rows of white stones seem to reach right out to the horizon.

This would be a wonderful place to watch a beautiful sunset, and Mark traipsed up there, camera in hand, on quite a few occasions, hoping for glorious red skies.

 

 

This cemetery overlooks the sea and the bay

This cemetery overlooks the sea and the bay

But Mother Nature has a mind of her own, and each time he made the trek, he came home disappointed with just a handful of shots that, while lovely, didn’t have the magic he’d hoped for.

The “out of this world” sunsets seemed to be reserved for the days when we weren’t paying attention and weren’t ready.

We’d be busy on the boat, deeply engrossed in some project, when we’d peak out the windows and our jaws would suddenly drop when we caught sight of the colors in the sky.

 

Sunset at Harbor Island

A beautiful sunset catches us by surprise

To add to the drama, our sunset views from inside the boat are fantastically enhanced because the windows in the hull are tinted pink!

We’d leap up out of our seats, throw everything aside, and dive for the cameras — which were never where they should be, always had the wrong lenses attached, and had been left in some weird mode that produced blown out or black images for the first few photos.

Oh well! We’d still click away, happy as clams, hunting for ways to get a unique perspective on whatever was happening in the sky.

Sculptures on Shelter Island at dusk

Shelter Island sculpture structures at dusk…

Mark enjoyed getting out for night shots too, and Shelter Island’s unusual sculptures offered lots of interesting opportunities.

There is a big grassy lawn with two large structures on it that represent the undulations and curves of waves on the sea.

During the daytime these are a little bit funny looking, but at night, when spotlights shine on them, they come to life.

Sculptures on Shelter Island at night

…and at night.

The magic hour is just after sunset when the sky makes a brilliant blue backdrop, but I also really liked the silky, inky black of night.

This is a fun time to play with lighting, and he got a wonderful photo of a trio of bird of paradise flowers too.

Trio of bird of paradise flowers

A lovely bird of paradise trio

These were happy days for us on the shores of San Diego Bay.

After a while, though, we finally tore ourselves away from the action nearby to go looking for adventure a little further afield.

We didn’t have to go too far — Sunset Clilffs and Balboa Park were just a stone’s throw away.

 

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Our beloved sailboat Groovy is For Sale

San Diego’s Shelter Island – A Lively Waterfront!

Shelter Island San Diego

Shelter Island is a great place to sit for a spell!

Summer-Fall, 2013 – While we were in San Diego, living in one of the marinas in Shelter Island’s “backyard,” we discovered a summer-long party was going on out on the island’s “front yard” that faces the bay.

Statue of kid with balloons

A bronze statue is dressed up with balloons

Shelter Island’s unique waterfront park invites visitors to spread out a picnic, or kick back with a book under a tree, or host a birthday party, or gather the whole clan for a huge family reunion, and these kinds of festive happenings go on whenever the sun is shining, which is pretty much every afternoon!

Sunbathing on Shelter Island

Shelter Island’s little beach is great for sunbathing.

Whenever we took a stroll across the street from the marina, the bay side of Shelter Island was hopping with activity.

Joggers, walkers and people with dogs filled the paths, while sunbathers and fishermen hung out by the water’s edge.

Shelter Island Drive, the road that runs the length of this spit of land, is a about a mile long, and it is a favorite place for people to show off their sports cars.

We spotted high-end cars of every variety driving by. After a while we got used to looking up and seeing something exotic rolling past, like a Ferarri or Lotus or Bentley or Rolls Royce.

Roadster on Shelter Island

California Dreaming…

This is California, after all, where cruising in a sporty roadster is an iconic pastime.

One day we found a Porsche car show was in full swing at one end of the island. Porsches of every color and from every era filled the grassy lawn by the water. Proud owners stood back and smiled while their cars were ogled and photographed.

Porsche car show Shelter Island

Porsches are lined up at a car show

Many of the cars had cute license plates. I liked the one that said “It’s qwik.”

Porsche - it's quik!

This is a fast one!

The Porsche car show was set up for just a few hours that Saturday, but the local RVs were there every day.

Porche car show on Shelter Island

What a place to show off these beautiful cars

RVs up to 30′ long are given designated parking spaces that they can stay in 22/7 — all but the wee hours of the morning. A group of “regulars” showed up early every morning to take their favorite spots along the waterfront.

Decorated RV on Shelter Island

There’s a little of everything here

Just as unique and eye-popping as any sporty Porsche was one fellow’s Class C motorhome. He had decorated if from stem to stern in crazy, colorful doo-dads and stickers. The exterior of his rig was an evolving work of art, and we watched him carefully adding goodies to it every so often.

Prevost at Humphreys

The RV culture on Shelter Island includes million dollar rigs!

At the opposite end of the spectrum, famous rock and rollers pulled into Shelter Island every few days to perform in outdoor concerts at Humphreys.

Their posh RVs were given designated parking too, right in the Humphreys parking lot!!

Seeing these million dollar rigs lined up always prompted chatter among the passersby, “Who’s playing tonight?”

Their lineup was impressive, and bands like Lynyrd Skynyrd and Moody Blues were on the roster during our stay.

Fishing Pier cShelter Island

This little pier is Shelter Island’s fishing hub

We hoped to catch a glimpse of a famous face, or at least get a peak inside a rig, or just talk to a roadie, but we never got quite that lucky.

There were times, though, when there were four or five of these million dollar motorhomes parked in front of Humphreys, their generators humming.

Big tree on Shelter Island

Shelter Island has lots of huge and elegant trees

Several hundred yards away, the fishermen were lined up on the fishing pier, poles reaching out over the water, their ice buckets and coolers at their feet.

Jungle gym slide on Shelter Island

Little kids have their own place
on Shelter Island too.

Shelter Island’s captivating view looks straight across the bay at downtown San Diego, but it is the enormous trees towering over the shore that will always remain etched in my memory. These mammoth trees seem to reach for the sky, and they have shaded decades of parties and gatherings under their branches.

Bougainvillea trellis Shelter Island

Trellises covered with bougainvillea dot the walking paths

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The little jungle gym in the middle of the island was always full of kids playing on the swings and slide.

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Bell of Friendship from Yokohama to San Diego

Yokohama’s “Bell of Friendship” was given to San Diego in 1960.

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At the far end of Shelter Island there is a Japanese monument, complete with a little red roofed structure that houses a very special “Bell of Friendship” along with a huge hanging mallet to strike it. This bell was presented to San Diego in 1960 by her “sister city,” Yokohama, Japan.

Morning mist on Shelter Island

Morning mist on Shelter Island

The whole monument faces right out to the open Pacific ocean beyond San Diego’s protected bay, and there is a longing and almost haunting quality to it.

Marvelous Muffins on Shelter Island Drive

Marvelous Muffins are MARVELOUS!

Although the afternoons were usually bright and sunny, the mornings were often very misty and foggy, and we often woke to the sound of water dripping from our boat’s rigging onto the deck. That’s when we would to head to Marvelous Muffins, a sweet little muffin shop that was warm and cozy and smelled yummy inside. The shop’s owner Sophie would greet us with a huge smile, and despite having hundreds of customers, many of whom have been coming daily for years, she soon knew our names and our favorite order: a cranberry bran muffin and a blueberry bran muffin.

Yoga on standup paddle boards

Morning yoga exercises in the bay

We liked to think that starting the day with a bran muffin was fairly healthy, but one morning as we nibbled our treats, we were quite taken aback when we saw three people doing yoga on their stand-up paddle boards out in the bay.

San Diego's Festival of Sail

San Diego’s Festival of Sail

Wow! Where else would you see something like that? Another day we wandered across from the marina to see the Festival of Sail, a fabulous tall ship parade.

New and old ships in San Diego

The NEW and the OLD!

People set up their chairs on the lawn and pulled out their binoculars and cameras to watch the ships sailing past. What a fun show. Historic ships of all kinds ghosted past, all sails flying. I loved seeing the ultra modern design of a race boat next to the salty lines of an old wooden schooner. What a contrast. Each boat harnesses the wind for propulsion, but in such totally different ways.

Tall ships of every kind sailed past

Tall ships of every kind sailed past

Tall ship in San Diego

These beautiful ships sailed towards downtown.

Tall ships in San Diegp

Tall ships and sailboats on San Diego Bay

Wanna race?

Local boaters got close to the action, sailing between the tall ships, and many of the local charter boats took their customers out for a view from the front row.

Tall ship cannon blast

Cannon blast!

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This was a beautiful parade that moved past in silence and slow motion.

Tall ship at sunset

A tall ship catches the light at sunset

Some of the tall ships had been war ships in a bygone era and had been armed to the teeth in their day.

Several of them broke the silence with cannon blasts as they went by. These explosions evoked a shout of excitement from us onlookers standing in the grass.

But how frightening it must have been to be caught in a skirmish — a true dance macabre — between ships like these back when the coasts were untamed.

Fishermen statue

San Diego celebrates all the ways people enjoy the sea

San Diego has one of the most accessible waterfronts of any big city, and the statues all along the waterfront pay homage to the many ways that people enjoy the sea.

We loved this statue of three fishermen reeling in their catch, and after we both tried many different angles on it, Mark captured this beautiful shot at dusk.

The wonderful thing about Shelter Island is that even when there isn’t a formal tall ship parade going by, there is always something happening on the water.

Big cruise ships come into San Diego on a regular basis too. What a sight it is when one passes by, all lit up like a Christmas tree from stem to stern.

A cruise ship lights up the bay as it sails towards downtown

A cruise ship lights up the bay as it sails towards downtown

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It was a gift to be able to live on Shelter Island where everything from car shows to boat parades to little kids playing on swings to folks casting for fish to people walking and jogging along the waterfront all happened right in our own front yard.

We relished all the action, but were always glad to be able to retreat at the end of the day to Shelter Island’s back yard of marinas where the the sunsets became ever more spectacular as the summer slipped into fall and then early winter!

Sunset on Harbor Island

The sunsets became ever more dramatic as Fall progressed.

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Our beloved sailboat Groovy is For Sale

San Diego’s Shelter Island – Safe Haven!

Kona Kai sunset

Our sailboat “Groovy” enjoys the sunset at Kona Kai Marina on Shelter Island

Summer-Fall, 2013 – San Diego’s Shelter Island is an oasis of tranquility in the middle of a very busy city harbor, and when we sailed up from Mexico it became our beautiful home for a few months.

What a place!

San Diego is a cool bayside city that ranks as the eighth largest in the US.

It is home to both a major naval air station and a huge international airport that crowd the waterfront alongside the skyscrapers of downtown.

 

Walking path on Shelter Island

The walking paths along Shelter Island’s back side are lush and lovely.

All that stuff could make for a very industrial waterfront, but Shelter Island offers a wonderful, scenic getaway, a little island of calm, right in the middle of it all.

With grassy lawns and palm trees running along its length and making up much of both its “front yard” on the bay and its “back yard” of marinas, Shelter Island is a unique spot.

 

Elegant yacht and house

Shelter Island’s back yard is very pretty and peaceful

The island, which is actually connected and not a true island, is the result of brilliant city planning back in the 1930’s.

The land used to be natural mud flats that were dredged to create a deep water mooring area for boats and a solid turf “island.”

This green and lush strip of land at the water’s edge is part of what makes San Diego so worthy of its claim to be “America’s Finest City.”

Kona kai rower

A rowboat passes behind the boats in the marina

Stand up paddle boards Shelter Island

One of the best ways to get around
is by paddle board

On the front (bay) side of the island, visitors picnic, walk their dogs, jog, fish, sunbathe, and launch their kayaks and powerboats for rides in the bay.

 

The more serene back side of the island is home to a dozen or so marinas and a thousand or so boats that sit quietly, side by side, with narrow waterways running in labyrinthine patterns between them.

 

Kona Kai Marina gate

The metal gate at Kona Kai marina is heavy and ornate

Our boat slip was at Kona Kai marina, which is part of a resort hotel, and our dock was tucked behind an elaborately sculpted, heavy metal gate that swung shut on springs with a resounding clang. Once inside the gate, it was as if the world on the other side of the island disappeared.

All that was around us were graceful boats that moved ever so gently in their slips and birds that fished in the mirrored waters by the shore.

This back yard of Shelter Island is an ideal place to explore by paddle board or rowboat, and we saw lots of those during our stay.

 

Shelter Island walking path

We just love these walking paths

Along the shore, a paved walking path ducks under rich green foliage that is dotted with brilliant orange bird of paradise flowers and vivid magenta bouganvillea.

Ironically, when we first arrived at Shelter Island after sailing up from Mexico, we didn’t appreciate or even recognize the tranquility of the place.

The hum and thrum of the Mexican and American cultures are so different, and they dance to such divergent tempos and cadences, that after our many months of immersion in Mexico, we were out of sync with our own home culture. It took us a while to find our rhythm.

 

Deborah Lynn Herreshoff

Our neighbor’s Herreshoff 12.5 Doughdish
“Deborah Lynn” looked so pretty in the morning light

On our very first morning on Shelter Island, Mark emerged from the companionway of our boat and went out for a walk at dawn. I was too lazy to join him and just rolled over.

What a shock it was when he jumped back into bed an hour later and pulled the covers over his head.

“Where’s the fire?” He asked, his voice muffled by pillows and blankets as he hugged them tight around his head.

“Everyone is moving so fast! What is wrong with the world out there? Why is everyone in such a rush?”

I laughed as he curled up in a little ball, his fists clenching the blankets right down over his face.

Messing about in boats

“There is nothing half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats”

Shelter Island at dawn is downright mellow by American urban standards!

But we weren’t used to American life any more, and this was our first stage of “re-entry.” During the weeks and months that followed, there were many times when we both wanted to pull the covers over our heads as we readjusted.

Travelers who spend a long time away from their home culture often talk about “re-entry” when they finally come home.

Shelter Island is a sea of masts

The backside of Shelter Island is a sea of masts

All it takes for most Americans to get catapulted back into the reality of our own culture is a trip to a supermarket.

The displays of richly colored and beautifully shaped produce seem to go on for acres, and each specimen sitting on its perfect pyramid of sister fruits and veggies appears to be the very essence of ripeness and loveliness.

The miles-wide and miles-long aisles in the supermarket offer at least two or three choices for everything.

It is overwhelming. Such bounty and wealth. Such lavish abundance.

Red sailboat at Shelter Island

There are boats of every kind here.

We’ve been through the supermarket re-entry phase before, but it didn’t make it any less dramatic this time around.

We walked into the supermarket and instantly felt that same urge we had on the streets of Mexico to grab our cameras and take photos.

The supermarket was just so exotic and so colorful and so wonderful!

On the boat, life was more familiar and not too different than it had been in Mexico, except we were now wearing sweatshirts and running our heater at night.

Living at Shelter Island also gave us a wonderful window onto the world of the very rich.

Cushy chairs at Kona Kai Resort

Relaxing at Kona Kai in front of the mega yacht dock

The cushy chairs at the resort had a view of the mega yacht dock, and one day a new yacht pulled in that was five stories tall and dwarfed the recreational boats nearby.

What a life!

We felt so privileged to be able to see all this…and even to be able to feel all these mixed up emotions too.

A generous friend took us to lunch at the posh San Diego Yacht Club where there are trophy cases lined with silver goblets engraved with the names of the best racing sailors.

Mega yacht Invectus at Kona Kai

The five story yacht “Invectus” towers over all the other boats

Wooden ship's wheel San Diego Yacht Club

View from San Diego Yacht Club

A thickly varnished and very shiniy wooden ship’s wheel on the yacht club deck gave the luncheon patio a distinctly nautical flavor.

This was life lived at another level, and boating of a different kind that barely resembled the grubby, salty cruising lifestyle we had come from. What a delight!

Kona Kai Marina

Kona Kai Marina

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We felt like shape shifters sliding in and out of all these special cultures.

Herron fishing

In many ways, too, we felt a lot like Dorothy upon her return from Oz.

We had woken up, with bumps on our heads, to find our home was rather strange and unfamiliar, and all we could do was talk excitedly about where we had just been.

Heron and reflected masts

A heron fishes among the mast reflections

Dorothy’s friends and neighbors listened politely as she told of the scarecrow and the lion and the tin-man and the wizard. But her friends and family were much more concerned about the bump on her head.

Pelican landing

Landing gear down…

We gave a few slideshow talks about our adventures and talked til we were hoarse about all that we had seen and done.

We made videos to inspire future cruisers and give them shortcuts to reach the best stuff we discovered down south.

Fortunately, I think our stories and photos captured the imaginations of the folks that listened to us.

But the bumps on our heads from re-entry were still there, especially when we watched TV and listened to the radio.

That sure jolted us back to the reality of life in the US!

 

Back side of Island Palms Resort

It’s pretty darn nice here!

We hadn’t heard or seen advertising in English for 10 months, and we were in awe as we were assaulted by the plethora of advertisers.

It sure seemed as though our lives would be hopelessly incomplete if we didn’t start buying all this great stuff right away!

Technology had also snuck ahead of us while our heads were turned, and we watched our friends talk to their phones and their cars with a chummy familiarity that was startling.

Their phones and navigation systems happily talked back too!

 

Puffy cloud Sunset at Kona Kai

Puffy clouds above the boats and reflections below

Witnessing these human/computer interactions made us feel like we had walked right off the edge of the planet and were just now crawling back on our hands and knees.

We have been without a cell phone since 2007, and our friends were sure we needed to get one now to survive.

Several trips to the Verizon store and a few sales pitches later, and we realized we still didn’t need a phone, not even a smart one, but gosh, those smartphones sure are seductive.

One day while Mark was chatting with a new friend on the docks, he suddenly said, “You were in Mexico!? That explains why you’re so laid back and talk so slow!”

Sunset on Shelter Island

Sunset on Shelter Island

We are?? We do?? We just thought the world was moving a little too fast and everyone was talking in hyperspeed around us!

Fortunately, the rhythm of the sunrises and sunsets in Shelter Island’s backyard was the same as it has ever had been. We reveled in the purity of each one.

The sky was different every morning and every evening, and it conjured up all kinds of colors and shapes and patterns to fill the sky.

And oftentimes the water was glass beneath it, reflecting those same pretty images back up from the depths below.

Sunset at Shelter Island Marina

Every sunrise and sunset is different

Shelter Island’s protected backyard offered us wonderful shelter as we gradually eased our way back into the mainstream.

Lighted docks at Kona Kai Marina

The docks at night

But it was Shelter Island’s front yard — the grassy green picnic areas, the majestic trees, the funky old RVs and the front row seats to the action on the bay — that got us excited about being back home in the US and living in this very special corner of it for a while…

Bonfire at Kona Kai Resort

A beach bonfire on the back side of Shelter Island

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Our beloved sailboat Groovy is For Sale

Taylor Guitars – Where Passion Fuels Success

Taylor Guitars Entrance

At Taylor Guitars!

Mid-November, 2013 – After watching the 2013 Baja Ha-ha fleet of boats sail south for winter cruising in Mexico, we turned our attention away from the sea and back towards the fun things there are to do on land in southern California.

Mark has been an avid guitar player since his teenage years, and it wasn’t long before we found ourselves at the unique Taylor Guitars factory in El Cajon.

Many moons ago, Mark had taken an impromptu tour of the old Taylor factory, back when it was in Santee, California.

 

 

Kids walking with guitar necks

How cool to see factory workers walking around with guitar parts in their hands!

Today the plant is in El Cajon, and the daily tours are not only extraordinarily professional and informative but reflect the high quality standard that is the very essence of Taylor Guitars.

What fun it is to pull into an industrial area full of factory buildings and see plant workers walking around carrying guitar necks and bodies!

The visitors center was like a museum that hums a melodious ode to the beauty of Taylor guitars.

Signs on the walls next to expensive guitars say, “Play Me!” and the receptionist encouraged us to take any guitar we wanted off the rack and give it a strum.  Mark happily obliged!

 

Taylor Guitars factory tour

Visitors are encourage to try any guitar they want

Turning a corner into the stylish gift shop, we heard snippets of classic rock favorites coming from the guitars of other tour takers as we milled around and waited for our tour to begin.

There were some really great guitar players with us on tour that day!

Emerson Lake and Palmer’s “From the Beginning” and Zeppelin’s “Stairway to Heaven” wafted through the room, while the players grinned with delight at the way these graceful guitars sounded.

We were given headphones and receivers so we could hear the tour guide over the noise of the factory, and we all assembled at the appointed hour.

Taylor Guitar tour guide and group

We gather around our tour guide, wearing headphones, receivers and safety glasses.

We were a group of about 20, with just four women present. What a surprise it was to find out from our guide that our group was only “medium” sized. This tour is given every weekday!!

I’m sure that being a Guitar God was something all these guys around me had dreamed of at one point or another in their lives, but on this tour we were introduced to the life works of a REAL Guitar God. Not Jimi Hendrix or Eric Clapton or Eddie Van Halen, but the one and only Bob Taylor, the co-founder and visionary behind Taylor Guitars.

We soon discovered that Bob’s unique talents and can-do approach to life were apparent when he was just a junior in high school in the early 1970’s. When he saw the $175 price tag of a coveted guitar, rather than go mow a few lawns to raise the capital to buy it, he decided to make one himself in shop class instead!

Taylor Guitar woodpile

One of many woodpiles out back

While his shop teacher was teaching the other kids the names of the tools in the shop and explaining what goes into a design plan, he drew up a plan for a 12-string dreadnought guitar and asked his teacher if he could skip the beginner stuff and get right into building his guitar.
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The Baja Ha-Ha 2013 Sails South!

Sunny days and pretty flowers on Shelter Island

Sunny days and pretty flowers on Shelter Island

Every fall, veteran sailing snowbirds and first-time voyagers flock to the many marinas and anchorages around San Diego Bay. Then, at the end of October, they point their bows south and take flight in the Baja Ha-Ha Cruiser’s Rally.

This year we had front row seats to all the action.

This voyage is a long one — some 800 miles or so between San Diego and Cabo San Lucas at the southern tip of Mexico’s Baja peninsula — and the rally lasts two weeks.

The boats make just two stops along the way, and at a blazing boat speed of 6 to 8 mph, they cover three legs of approximately 350 miles, 250 miles and 200 miles each.

Baja Ha-Ha kick-off party

Ron from West Marine was a great pirate-host
for the Ha-Ha kick-off costume party

These are overnight passages, and the boats sail non-stop for days at a time, with the crew taking turns at the helm.

In the weeks leading up to the rally, boats arrive from points north, and the excitement builds around the docks.

Boats come down from Alaska, British Columbia, Washington, Oregon and northern California, and everyone arrives with adventure and tropical sunshine on their minds.

We were first introduced to the Baja Ha-Ha in 2008 when we were living in our fifth wheel trailer on Shelter Island. Laws for parking an RV along the waterfront were more lax in those days, and we spent a wonderful month enjoying San Diego from this fantastic spot.

Mariachi band

A mariachi band performed at the Ha-Ha kick-off party.

 

We got a glimpse of the west coast boating life that whetted our appetites and changed our lives.

While we were there, adventurers Stephen Mann and Kathleen Torres were getting ready to depart on their daring 9 month round-the-world voyage via the Southern Ocean.

And the Ha-Ha crowd was spilling in and out of every chandlery and boating related store on Shelter Island.

 

Wicked wenches

Wild wenches line up for their costume contest

We went to the Ha-Ha kick-off costume party and got totally caught up in the excitement and festivities.  We bought Ha-Ha t-shirts and suddenly had our hearts set on buying a boat and going cruising too!

Two years later, we joined the merriment again — for real! We partied with the Ha-Ha crowd at the kick-off party and then sailed south on our own boat, following in the wake of the fleet.

Pirate and cowgirl

A pirate and … a cowgirl!

This year’s party and send-off were just as much fun (if not more-so) as the other two we’d attended.

It was a little nostalgic for us as we remembered our wide-eyed impressions of the first party and our fluttery butterfly nerves during the second party when our own departure was just days away.

This year’s party was full of wonderful flashbacks for us. We listened to the excited conversations between the cruisers as they talked about boat projects and last minute repairs, and memories of our own last minute preparations welled up from what now seems like the far distant past.

Pirate duel

A pirate’s life for me? Watch out!

The Ha-Ha kick-off costume party is a chance for all the cruisers to let off a little steam the day before the big departure. After weeks of boat upgrade projects, massive bank account draining expenditures on equipment, and laborious installations, troubleshooting and repairs, everyone at the party is radiantly happy to let loose for a few hours.

Stealing a sword

Watch your back at all times!

The kick-off party takes place in the West Marine parking lot, and their employee Ron, who usually wears a normal clothes to work, came to West Marine dressed as a pirate just for the occasion. He transformed into a fantastic, swashbuckling host for the event.

As he invited all the other pirates up on the stage for the costume contest, one of them boldly reached out and grabbed Ron’s pistol off his belt. Ron raised his sword in protest, but luckily no limbs were severed.

Teenage old man

A teenager did an awesome impersonation of an old man

Another pirate kept losing his sword out of its sheath on his back. You gotta watch your back at these cruiser gatherings!

All the costumes were really creative.

 

Meow!

Meow!

Pirate in glasses

There were some crazy getups!

One teenage boy did a spot-on impersonation of a cranky old man and had the crowd clapping and cheering.

And a pussy cat, a couple abandoning ship in a hurricane, a group of cervezas with limes and a Swedish family (who actually sailed here from Sweden — complete with Pippi Longstocking!) all had a moment in front of the crowd.

One of the most popular groups was the Pan Am flight attendants.

The Pan Am gals (cough cough) paraded in.

The Pan Am gals (cough cough) paraded in.

Lemme fix my hair

“I can’t do a THING
with my hair!”

These lovely ladies — uh — guys — brought a little brawn and muscle to their tight skirts… along with furry beards and hairy legs!

Cops

No one noticed the prisoners
when these cops showed up!

But when a pair of cops from East Germany showed up, the tight skirt game rose to a new level! They were chasing a group of prisoners that had balls chained to their ankles and were trying to make a quick prison break.  The crowd barely noticed the prisoners, as all eyes were on the two cops!

A special Ha-Ha cruiser for us was our friend Jenny who was dressed in a white lab coat. She is the First Mate of the flying vessel called “Rocket Science.” Her gorgeous 55 foot custom sailboat averages 12 knots with its eyes closed, and has been known to top 17 knots when the skipper and first mate were actually paying attention.

As the boat was being built, the original owner kept telling his naval architects, “It’s not rocket science,” as they worked to create a blindingly fast sailing machine. Well, although to him it wasn’t Rocket Science, to any boat sailing nearby, this boat is actually a sailing Rocket Ship!

They will be starting two days after the fleet, but they will likely overtake everyone in no time!

Rocket Science is a Rocket Ship!

Jenny’s Rocket Science is a Rocket Ship!

The Grand Poobah, Richard Spindler, was busy taking pics

Richard Spindler — the “Grand Poohbah” — got lots of pics

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Meanwhile the paparazzi had a remote controlled aircraft for overhead shots

The paparazzi used remote controlled aircraft for overhead shots!

Yours truly with the Grand Poohbah

Yours truly with the Grand Poohbah

Now, this is a Grand Event that is known far and wide in cruising circles. So it was no surprise to look up and see a flying craft above us with a camera pointed down into the crowd.

The paparazzi had obviously gathered outside the West Marine parking lot gates, and they were getting whatever shots they could of the wonderful party inside!

The Ha-Ha swag bags were a big hit -- very classy backpacks.

The Ha-Ha swag bags were a big hit — very classy backpacks.

Well, there weren’t any big celebrities present that day, but the buzz was on about the great swag that was being given out to the Ha-Ha participants this year.

Popeye made off with a two-four of beer to wash all that spinach down.

Popeye made off with a two-four of beer to wash down all that spinach!

The Ha-Ha logo backpacks were very classy, and they were loaded to the brim with t-shirts, sunglasses, beach balls and other goodies.

With swag bags full of great stuff, and bellies full of tacos and beer, the partiers finally began to disperse.

As we were leaving the parking lot, we noticed Popeye making off with a 24-pack of beer. He had been slurping a spinach drink all afternoon (although the liquid in his glass was suspiciously tan colored), so who could blame him if he wanted a little pick-me-up for later?

Baja Ha-ha 2013 fleet leaves San Diego

The Ha-ha fleet gathers in the bay

 

 

 

The next morning dawned gloomy and drizzly after a night of pouring rain. Our boat was drenched and our sheets were clammy as we climbed out of bed to see the Ha-Ha crowd off.

This was not the kind of start anyone would want, but maybe the promise of sunshine and fun times ahead got the sailors all revved up, even as they donned their foul weather gear for the start.

Baja Ha-ha fleet

Boats line up for the parade

Capricorn Cat

Capricorn Cat is beautifully dressed up for the occasion!

We wandered to the other side of Shelter Island at the appointed hour and watched the boats begin to gather.

We had been keeping an eye on the weather forecasts, and for us, this didn’t seem like a great day to leave. The frustrating part about any outdoor event is what do you do with inclement weather?

As a kid back in New England, I remember all our outdoor party invitations always went out with either a rain date or an alternative venue “in case of rain.” It was just part of life in a place where it rains a few days out of most weeks.

Baja Ha-ha 2013

The fireboat does donuts and blasts water spray arcs all around

But with a gathering of 130 sailboats headed south on a two week voyage, how do you coordinate an alternative departure date?

Fortunately, the excited crowd on the water didn’t seem put off one bit by the drizzle.

For us, however, the small craft advisory warnings and the forecast of 5 to 9 foot seas at 10-11 second intervals for the next few days (very steep and choppy!) did not seem very inviting.

In the end, all sailors have to make up their own minds about when the weather looks best for a passage, and fortunately the big comfy port of Ensenada lay just 70 miles to the south if things got too gnarly for the fleet!

 

Baja Ha-ha fleet with fireboat

Our friends Rob & Rose aboard R&R Kedger sail past

This is a big media event, and a fishing vessel named Dolphin bobbed near our shore with dignitaries from Mexico and San Diego and the media on board. They had fabulous front row seats to the spectacle.

But we were in prime position too, and suddenly we heard a starting gunshot blast from somewhere out on the water, and then the fleet was off. They motored past us, and our camera shutters flew — in between waves to friends, of course!

A fire boat spun in circles too, sending up a huge fountain of spray all around.  Here’s a quick video clip…

Now THAT's a lens!!!

Now THAT’s a lens!!!

We found ourselves standing next to a professional photographer from the San Diego Union-Tribune. What luck! Mark had a chance to talk cameras with a true pro, and we both gaped in awe at the lens he was using.

Our cameras were getting soaked in the drizzle, but his pro camera could easily handle that kind of misting. I had to throw my jacket over my camera between each shot, and I wondered if it would survive (it did!).

The mothership, Profligate, a fast 65-foot catamaran, zoomed through the fleet to the front of the pack, leading the way out of the bay. It was a thrill to see all of these intrepid cruisers off on their adventures.

Profligate roars to the head of the fleet

Profligate roars to the head of the fleet

After the row of boats slipped away into the mist, we dried off our cameras as best we could, packed them up, and began walking back to our truck.  The chatter between us was non-stop as we talked about all the excitement of the morning.

Funny thing is, try as we could, neither of us could remember the details of our own leave-taking from San Diego Bay on our voyage south those years ago. We had sailed in and out of the bay so many times, and had been back and forth to Ensenada so much, that somehow the specifics of that particular day were lost to us for the moment.

Baja Ha-ha fleet leaves San Diego

And they’re off — to warmer climes and a great winter in Mexico.

But as we climbed into our truck and drove over to a coffee shop to warm up with a latte and a muffin, we both agreed that we were quite content not to be on the ocean right now.

We’d had our time and loved our cruise, just as these sailors are having their time and will love their cruise too. But as we listened to the fog horn wailing in the distance while we cozied up to steaming cups at our little bistro table in the coffee shop, there was something very comforting and civilized about being warm, dry, and on stable ground — with our own wheels parked out front!

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Bisti Badlands NM – Mysterious rocks and an alien egg factory!

Bisti Badlands hiking in the wash

Hiking into the remote and mysterious Bisti Badlands.

Late September, 2012 – One of the great things about hanging out with the photography pros at Nasim Mansurov’s Colorado Landscape Photography Workshop was that they knew where the cool places were to take pictures.  Nasim suggested we check out the Bisti Badlands in New Mexico where there are all kinds of rock formations, hoodoos and some mysterious alien looking “eggs.”

Bisti Badlands New Mexico Hiking through the rock formations

We hiked on ridges and in valleys

This is a very remote place, 36 miles south of Farmington, New Mexico, and when you get here after miles and miles of boring flat land, it is a wonder to behold.  Even more startling for us, though, was having an Indian on a spotted Appaloosa horse ride up to our campsite to chat with us.  His name was Nelson, and I suspect his first language was Navajo, as he spoke English with an unusual accent.  He had been out rounding up a miscreant brahma bull that had wandered away when his nephew accidentally left the paddock gate open.

Bisti Badlands New Mexico lots of colors in the rocks and Teepees

The colors vary from one neighborhood to the next.

Tourists from all over the world make their way to Bisti Badlands, and Nelson has met folks from Europe, Asia, and all the states.  It is a wilderness area, so there are no signs and no trail markers, and too often hese tourists wind up on his ranch, quite lost.  The rather baffling maps from the BLM office make it look easy to find your way, but they quickly prove almost useless once you start hiking.

Bisti Badlands New Mexico Indian on an Appaloosa Horse

An Indian visits our campsite on his spotted Appaloosa horse “Oreo”

Just last week Nelson had rescued a Japanese family that saw the light on in his house near midnight.  They knocked on his door seeking refuge from the cold, scary desert night.  He brought them back to their car in the morning.  “Don’t they see the movement of the sun, or watch the moon?” He asked us, shaking his head in disbelief.  Then he spurred his horse and cantered down the road in a cloud of dust, his faithful dogs following.

Bisti Badlands New Mexico hoodoos

Exotic hoodoos surrounded us.

Wow.  That was right out of the movies!!

Bisti Badlands Alice in Wonderland furniture

Mark finds himself a little table.

 

 

We ventured into the badlands armed with a compass, binoculars, a good sense of the sun’s path, a bunch of food and water, and our cameras.  The “egg factory” is a collection of rocks that look like aliens hatching out of their eggs, and finding it was our ultimate goal (as it is for most travelers here).  But the rock formations and desert colors we saw on the way were just as inspiring.

Bisti Badlands New Mexico Alice in Wonderland hoodoos

Obama and Romney should pontificate a bit out here!!

We hiked for hours, following first one wash and then another, climbing up and over tall pyramid shaped rocks and skirting around the bottoms.  Over the years visitors have given the different groups of rock formations names:  The Wings, Alice in Wonderland, The Teepees, etc.  Spread out over several square miles, you only know you’ve arrived in a particular neighborhood when the rock formations look like the names they’ve been granted.

Bisti Badlands New Mexico searching for the cracked eggs

Mark scans the horizon for the eggs

Bisti Badlands New Mexico Collared Lizard

This lizard wasn’t lost!

We came across a group of rock formations that looked like furniture.  A perfect little table and a podium were fun to pose with.

 

 

 

But where in the world were those crazy eggs?  They were supposed to be about two miles into the badlands area, along a wash that branched southeast.  Well, there were lots of washes, and they branched all over the place.  We saw lizards scampering along the desert floor.  Surely they knew exactly how things were laid out in this vast barren place.

Bisti Badlands Rock Formations

Well, the eggs aren’t here, but this is cool!

Bisti Badlands New Mexico Wings

Winged things.

Bisti Badlands New Mexico Flying Saucer

A flying saucer!

 

 

 

 

 

 

We found ourselves in another area of formations that had flat roofs, or wings.  These hoodoos were otherworldly.  One even looked like a flying saucer.  Some of the flat tops were detachable and could be lifted off.

Bisti Badlands New Mexico Pyramids

Mark stands at the base of a pyramid

Continuing on, we wandered between tall pyramid shaped formations that were decorated with fantastic horizontal stripes.  They stood just a hundred feet or so high, and were easy to scramble up onto for a birds-eye view.

Bisti Badlands New Mexico colorful black and red pyramids

The colors change to black and red

The landscape changed from shades of white and yellow to shades of red and black.  It was all quite beautiful and exotic.  But the eggs were nowhere to be found.

Bisti Badlands bird

Bisti Badlands New Mexico searching for the egg factory

“North is that way!”

We returned to our campsite and studied the BLM map once again.  Maybe they would turn up on a second day’s quest.  We headed out again the next day and this time recognized many of the landmarks and had a much better sense of where we were.  “North is that way,” Mark said at one point.  He had a photo of the eggs from the BLM and now we knew what they would look like if we found them:  small egg-like rocks backed by white eroded cliffs.

Bisti Badlands New Mexico cracked eggs

Two of the elusive alien eggs

Finally we found them and whooped and hollered in triumph.

Bisti Badlands New Mexico the black boobs

The black boobs – important landmarks!

In the end, they are actually very easy to find.  There are GPS coordinates available on the web, but here is an easy landmark-based way to get there:

 

Follow the fence on the left side of the parking lot into the badlands.  When the fence takes its second sharp 90 degree turn to the left, look straight ahead in the direction you’ve been walking, and look for two black “boobs.”

Bisti Badlands New Mexico the egg factory

Mark sits among the eggs

Walk towards them.  As you approach them, walk around the leftmost one (the further one), leaving it on your right, and continue on to the black topped white cliffs in the distance.  The little collection of eggs is right there in front of the cliffs.

Bisti Badlands New Mexico egg factory

The best light for these guys is dawn and dusk

Bisti Badlands New Mexico cracked eggs

Bisti Badlands New Mexico egg factory

We had arrived at the eggs in the glare of midday, but who cares?

Bisti Badlands New Mexico the egg factory

In a softer light at dusk

Bisti Badlands New Mexico the eggs

An alien rises up out of its shell!

Bisti Badlands New Mexico the eggs at dusk

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

We felt like successful Explorers!  The following afternoon we returned to the eggs a second time to capture them in the softer light of sunset.

Bisti Badlands New Mexico egg factory light painting

A full moon rises behind the eggs

There were a few other photographers with us, and we all had very a funny moment when we suddenly noticed the full moon rising opposite the setting sun.  All the cameras and tripods turned around in one motion!

Bisti Badlands New Mexico Cracked Eggs light painting

Light painting on the eggs

We hung out as the sky darkened, and we played with a new photography technique Mark had learned:  light painting.  Using a flashlight, we “painted” the eggs with light and used long exposures to get a wonderfully eerie effect.

This was the last of our RV travels before we returned to Phoenix to visit friends and family. Then it was time to store the trailer and board a plane to Mexico where our sailboat Groovy waited for us in a slip down south in Marina Chiapas.

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We returned to Bisti Badlands in the spring of 2017:

Alien Eggs in Bisti/De-Na-Zin Wilderness (Bisti Badlands) New Mexico

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