
















Apalachicola, FL

Alice Jean - Have a Coke and a Smile



Southern Florida & the Gulf Coast
April, 2008 - We dropped down to the northern suburbs of Miami from
Daytona, swimming at Hobe Sound, Hollywood Beach and South
Beach. Each beach had a different flavor, and we enjoyed the beach
scene at each one. The water was turquoise and warm and we played
like children. In Miami we were hosted by my brother and his family
and he took us to a local park with banyan trees and mangrove
swamps. It was dense, exotic foliage, and we had a great time traipsing
along the trails.
An iguana showed
up as we passed and
he paused for a look
at us before he
scampered off into
the underbrush.
We were intrigued that an old building
in the park had been built using coral
building blocks, rather than
the stone you might find at
in an old building elsewhere
in the country.
From Miami we scooted
across to Sarasota and the
southern Gulf Coast. The
gulls flew overhead as we
struggled at times in traffic.
Southern Florida is crowded,
and parking can be quite a
challenge...
In Sarasota we walked along Siesta Beach where the white sand is
groomed and resembles Dutch apple pie topping, soft and crumbly.
I had never felt sand quite as soft. The scenic drive along
Sarasota's coast was lovely, and a little further north we had a
leisurely picnic at Coquina Beach. We watched the sailboats
passing through the drawbridge and felt like we were in the tropics.
We wandered north along
the Gulf Coast, watching the towns get smaller and sleepier as we got away from the big
cities to the south. As often happened in our first year travels, there were things we
missed as we skipped along. But we felt pushed by the growing heat and humidity at the
end of April, and after three months in the Sunshine State we were ready for other kinds of
adventures.
We stopped in the little
hamlet of Carrabelle to
stretch our legs and found
the World's Smallest Police
Station and a cute 50's
inspired coffee shop.
Sailboats were anchored
across the bay and it looked
like a glorious morning to sit
in the cockpit and sip coffee
while watching the world
wake up.
We were charmed by the small
town of Appalachicola. It is a cute
walking town with fishing boats tied
up at the pier.
We poked our heads into a guitar
store because Mark needed new
strings for his guitar. We got talking
with the store owner (and her
cockatiel), and it turned out her 90+
year old mother was an art teacher
in a studio down the hall from the
music store. It was a few minutes before the art class was starting, so
we dropped in to check out the gallery and say hello to the teacher. It
turned out her name was Alice Jean and she had been a Rockette and
a Coca-Cola model back in the days when Coke ads were hand painted. She had some
memorabilia from that era on the wall. What fun to talk to this elderly lady and imagine the
years peeling back to reveal such fresh beauty as we saw in the painted ads.
Continuing west along the
coast of the panhandle the
scenery got prettier and
prettier. We drove out on
two peninsulas capped by
state parks --
St. George's
state park and
St. Joseph's
state park.
Each was
lovely.
We began to
see homes
built on stilts, and the grassy sand dunes swept down to the turquoise sea. This
area held the promise of long lazy days sipping cool drinks while dipping your
toes in the water. But a sadness hovered over it as well. Almost every home along the coast was for sale. The country was in a
terrible real estate slump and credit crisis, and this area had been hit hard by hurricanes in the last few years.
Insurance companies were pulling out, and many people, like their stilt homes,
were being left high and dry. We saw so many housing developments that had
been abandoned. The plot plan billboards were faded and peeling, and the
homes stood half-built, knee deep in weeds. I don't know how an area like this
can recover. We traveled in an awed silence, searching the roadsides for
homes that didn't have a for sale sign out front.
Leaving the panhandle we zipped through Alabama and landed on the Gulf
Coast of Mississippi at a fascinating town called Bay St. Louis.
Daytona, Florida – The heat is on at Spring Break!




















Daytona, Florida
March 6-31, 2008 - Slipping down from northern Florida, we arrived in Daytona
just in time to watch the Daytona 200 motorcycle race. When we first stepped
into the grandstand and heard the motorcycles go by I had to brace myself. I
could feel the roar of the engines in my chest. The speed was shocking -- and
exciting. It was a duel between a pair of Honda riders and a pair of Kawasaki
riders. The Honda rider #1 led every single lap, trading pulls with #98 for the
first third of the race. Then #98 had a mechanical problem and #1 was on his
own. The crazy thing about this race is that the leaders lap the losers many
times during the race, and it is absolute mayhem as the leaders weave through
the pack of slower riders.
#1 held out and
won the race
handily -- only to be disqualified the
next day for having illegally polished
part of his engine. Mark caught the
checker flag moment with his camera
-- quite a feat given that the bike was
going 180 mph! The winner took a
victory lap and we staggered away
breathless. What a thrill !!
We wandered down to Daytona Beach and discovered it was the peak of
Spring Break. What luck!
Daytona Beach has several areas where you can drive your vehicle right
on the beach. This is where the "cruising" action is. Parked cars, beach
towels, and vendors line the breakwater below the hotels, while the kids
cruise up and
down the strip of
sand just beyond
the waves.
It was a study in
showing off your
assets while pretending not
to care if anyone noticed.
The girls banded together in
an impenetrable group,
while the boys hung out with
each other a healthy
distance away.
The girls strutted. The boys tossed a
football. It was the mating ritual of
the college crowd. Even the pelicans
cruised the beach in a tightly packed
formation, twenty feet above us.
We noticed a bevy of beautiful babes
approaching us on the beach. They
had caught our attention going the
other way twenty minutes earlier.
Without doubt, they were the hottest
things on the beach that day.
We were delighted
when these bathing
beauties surrounded
Mark for a photo.
As the angels radiated
youth and promise, the pelicans soared in the heavens above.
Not far from Daytona we looked to the heavens once again as we
watched a rocket launch at Cape Canaveral. We stood four miles
from the launch pad, but the rumble from the rocket shook the
ground. This particular rocket was launching a satellite that
would support a new startup company's venture. The company
was planning to provide satellite based music and movie
entertainment as well as GPS, internet and telecommunication to
drivers across the US. The launch was broadcast on TV monitors throughout the viewing area, showing the progress of the rocket
as it flew through the sky towards the equator where it finally unleashed its load into orbit.
The pride of the Space Coast was evident everywhere, with Space
Shuttle icons displayed all over the place, from McDonalds to
convenience stores. It is a close-knit community of people who
work in a really cool industry.
We returned to Daytona Beach for a post-Spring Break stroll.
Our punk-rock friend, the Royal Tern, surveyed the ocean views
while a sandpiper played in the waves.
Like clockwork, the waves
swished on the sand and the
birds dashed in and out of
the foam. It was a pattern
that seemed relentless in its
consistency.
I turned and looked at the
highrise behind me hanging
over the beach. It held a
similar pattern, manmade,
rhythmic...and relentless in
its consistency.
It was a beautiful day on a
beautiful beach, and we
happily left our bare
footprints in the sand.
From Daytona we ventured to Miami and the
sights of south and western Florida.
Northern Florida – Beach, Swamps & Pools






Mixed flock of gulls and Black Skimmers.



Royal Tern




Swampy marsh



Mark always has the luck of the Irish
spotting shamrocks.




Timucuan Trail


Northern Florida
February 5th - March 5th, 2008 - After freezing to the bone in Arizona in January we
decided to dash across the country to Florida. Besides warming up, we had lots of family
that was in Florida for the winter, so it made a great destination. When we first arrived we
spent a few weeks in The Villages in north central Florida. This was a hub of activity for
much of Mark's extended family. The Villages is a unique masterplanned community of
60,000 people surrounding two town center facades -- they are real, in that there are real
shops selling real goods, but
they are fake in that the
buildings and environs were
constructed in the last twenty
years to resemble old fashioned towns from another era. The
mirage is exceptionally well executed. We walked along the town
lake, past the "Bait Shop" to the town pier. It was odd to discover
that the boats in the water were props, including one that was
"shipwrecked" on the pier. The scene was lovely to look at, but had
no heart. As we
walked we
listened to The
Villages radio
station piped over the intercom throughout the town center. Ads for housing in
this massive development played constantly. We turned and saw that the
largest building in the town square was the sales office -- a lovely building with
pillars and a huge
inviting front porch.
But the sign above
the porch bore The
Villages logo and
said "Sales
Information."
It is a kind of Santa's
Toyland for retirees, a
great place to spend a
week of escapism
vacation but (for us) a scary place to spend your golden years. Happy hour was
at 4:00 everyday with insanely inexpensive drinks and community-provided live
entertainment. We boogied with WWII vets and drank two-for-one margaritas til
we stumbled. We had a blast, but it felt good to get away and get a dose of reality
in Jacksonville.
Jacksonville Beach, and its neighboring
Neptune Beach and Atlantic Beach, is a simple
stretch of sand lined with tall grasses, beach
houses and seabirds. The seabirds were
especially engaging. The Royal Terns looked to us
like 1980's punk rockers, with damp saltwater
stiffened feathers on their heads that looked like
mohawk hairdos. The laughing gulls careened
everywhere, cackling their high-pitched cries as
they flew.
The far north end of
Mayport Beach is home
to a mixed
flock of
seabirds,
primarily Black
Skimmers that
have a fierce
predatory look
with a bright
red sword of a
bill.
We took a
daytrip to Mt. Dora.
This small town has
a cute cycling statue and a sign marking the trailhead for a bike path. What
a surprise to find out that this town has no bike path! Just some artwork and
a trailhead sign.
However, the town does have a
beautiful boardwalk out into the swampy
marshes on the edge of the town lake.
Snakes and birds and exotic swampy
plants line the boardwalk. Our best find
was an alligator swimming around
partially submerged in the lake.
We spent some time in Ocala National Forest. One
evening as the sun set we had all our windows open in
the trailer. One by one the swamp creatures began to
sing their evening songs. The forest came to life around
us. We sat for an hour letting the darkness descend, listening closely as the strange noises
from these animals filled the night air.
After a heartwarming visit with one of
Mark's cousins we were packing up the
trailer to head over to the Gulf Coast.
Busily bringing in the slide and raising the
jacks, we talked to his neighbor -- now
our friend. She started describing her
favorite local camping area, Alexander
Springs. By the time we got in the truck
to drive away we had changed our
destination -- to Alexander Springs.
It is a beautiful little jewel in the forest, a natural, clear,
warm spring with a lovely boardwalk trail through the
swamps around it.
We wandered along the trail, marveling at the lush
plants and the bright turquoise water of the
springs. Some scuba divers were there that day,
and after watching them sink down a few feet they
vanished into their bubbles, and then even their
bubbles seemed to vanish, surfacing only as gentle
disturbances to the glassy surface.
Our travels took us up and down the east
coast and central parts of Florida several
times. Daytona was our next big stop.