April 2017 – We left the wondrous Petrified Forest National Park with its incredible hikes and nearby Route 66 nostalgia and headed due north from Holbrook, Arizona, on Route 77 towards Canyon de Chelly National Monument.
This interesting (although occasionally bumpy) rural road goes through the vast Navajo Nation. We were mesmerized by the classic southwestern vistas that filled our views for the first twenty miles or so. My long lens was in the trailer (sigh), so I didn’t get good shots of the amazing rock formations we passed.
A few years back we made a similar trek on the parallel Indian Route 12 and really enjoyed it. So, again, we decided to forego the more major highway (US Route 191) and take another scenic route instead.
Little did we know it was going to snow on us as we got into the higher elevations!
This was our third trip to Canyon de Chelly (pronounced Canyon d’Shay), but like all of the National Parks and National Monuments, there always seems to be something new to see.
In past visits we explored the overlooks along the northern scenic rim road through the park and hiked to the jaw-dropping White House Ruin. So, this time we decided to explore a few spots along the southern rim road.
Canyon de Chelly is a massive canyon formed by uplifts and the relentless flow of water, and today the sheer red rock canyon walls tower 700 feet above the lush green valley floor.
Far below us we saw trucks bashing through the water from recent rains.
The only way to see the valley of the canyon is to take a private guided tour offered by the Navajo who live on the reservation that surrounds Canyon de Chelly National Monument. However, the North and South Rim Drives are open to everyone to enjoy for free without a paid guide.
As we zipped in and out of the overlooks, the skies began to brood…
…and the red rock cliffs seemed to swirl around each other in fabulously exotic shapes.
Eventually, we made our way to Spider Rock Overlook, one of the iconic images of Canyon de Chelly. We reached the overlook right at the golden hour before sunset when the rock itself was lit in rich burnt orange hues.
The day had been very cloudy and windy, but as if by magic, right as the sun began to set, we were blessed with the most astonishing display of colors in the sky.
We each ran back and forth on the rim, unsure where to get the best views and which part of the sky would light up next.
Spider rock lost its glow but the fire in the heavens was just getting started.
Once the drama had played itself out in shades of orange, the skies turned vivid pink.
The light show intensified and our two-way radios crackled as we called each other from opposite ends of the overlook.
“Did you see THAT??!!”
That sunset was breathtaking, but when morning came the next day and we ventured back out on the south rim drive, the drama in the sky was gone. We returned to Sliding House Ruin overlook because there is such a huge area to prowl around there, and looking down into Canyon de Chelly was as astonishing as ever.
At Sliding House Ruin overlook there are endless stretches of flat and undulating boulders that head out in all directions on a promontory. Before we knew it, we had been there for hours running around on the tops of these cliffs and peering down into the tree-filled valleys below.
Of course, if you get too close to the edge in a place like this, it’s all over. A sign near the rim was a good reminder!
When I finally had gotten my fill of staring at the immense views in front of me, I glanced down at my feet and was taken with the rich hues and artistic patterns of the colorful lichen that was growing in and around the creases in the rocks.
Standing back and surveying the vast flat lichen covered boulders that stretched in all directions around me, I felt like I was looking at a modern art painting. Perhaps this is where Jackson Pollack got his inspiration!
A little movement in the corner of my eye caught my attention, and I turned to see a lizard scampering past. He stopped and stared at me as I snuck closer and clicked my camera’s shutter.
The spring wildflowers had started blooming, and Mark found a beautiful bouquet of Indian Paintbrush flowers.
We stuck around and soon the sun was sinking low in the sky, and the shadows were growing long and deep.
The clear sky meant there were no colorful theatrics in the sky for our sunset at Sliding House overlook, but the sun gave me a coy wink for a split second before it slipped out of sight.
It was hard to set the alarm for a pre-dawn hour the next day, but we bundled into our truck with hot tea and coffee in hand and drove out to Sliding House overlook once again where Mark caught the sun giving us a wink on its way up.
Canyon de Chelly is a special place deep in the heart of the immense Navajo reservation. There is a dry camping campground in the town of Chinle that is run by the Navajo, and a few sites are big enough for a big RV.
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More info about Canyon de Chelly:
- Canyon de Chelly National Monument – National Park Service Official Website
- Canyon de Chelly Park Map – From the National Park Service
- Cottonwood Campground – Navajo Nation Parks & Recreation Official Website
- Our back road route from Holbrook to Canyon de Chelly – Interactive Google Maps
- Canyon de Chelly southern Overlooks – Interactive Google Maps
Other blog posts from the beautiful red rock country of America’s southwest:
- Zion National Park RV Trip – One AWESOME Canyon! 12/15/16
- The Burr Trail – A Fabulous Side Trip on Utah’s Scenic Byway 12 11/15/16
- Red Canyon Utah and the Bryce Canyon Bike Trail! 10/13/16
- Fairyland Trail in Bryce Canyon National Park – A Beautiful Hike! 10/02/16
- Cedar Breaks National Monument – A Hidden Jewel in Utah 09/23/16
- Moab Utah – Red Rocks and Snowcapped Mountains 04/14/16
- Valley of the Gods & Goosenecks State Park, Utah – Beautiful! 04/04/16
- The Crack at Wet Beaver Creek (Bell Trail Hike), Sedona, AZ 03/14/16
- Bell Rock Pathway, Sedona AZ – Hiking & Biking the Red Rocks 03/07/16
- Cathedral Rock at Red Rock Crossing – Sedona AZ 12/14/14
- Sedona Reflections on the West Fork Trail 05/16/14
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