It is rare — no, it’s nearly impossible — on Mexico’s Pacific coast to find an anchorage where the boat stays flat. The direction of the wind, the tides and the ocean swell conspire to keep the boat in constant motion, endlessly pitching and rolling and ignoring all pleas from the crew to “Please Stop and Let Me Get Off!!”
It’s not that big a big deal during the day. If we’re on the boat, we’re busy doing things. Of course, sometimes we get caught off guard in the middle of something that requires coordination — like pouring a hot cup of coffee, standing on one foot while putting on a bathing suit, or walking up the companionway stairs carrying his-and-hers lunch plates in both hands. The boat will suddenly lurch to one side and the coffee will spill all over the floor, or I’ll topple over with one foot stuck in my bathing suit, flailing helplessly as I go down, or the lunch plates will fly off in all directions as I try my best not to get too many bruises bouncing down the stairs to the floor.
At night, however, it’s another story. The offshore winds at night in Pacific Mexico almost always turn the boat so it is beam to the sea, and it seems to me that the swell always picks up too. So, even if during the day the swell was mild and the boat was taking the rolls on the nose, gently pitching from front to back, at night (like clockwork after the sun goes down) the boat turns and the side-to-side rolling begins. Finding a comfortable sleeping position can be a good challenge. On my side, I find myself rocking forward and backward, over and over. A better position is either on my back or my front, arms and legs stretched wide on either side for stabilization. The starfish position! Get two people doing this in one bunk and… well, it’s a little like the game of Twister.
On more tumultuous nights, the doors, bulkheads and stairs creak with every roll. Sometimes an errant flashlight or coke can begins to roll back and forth on a shelf or in the fridge, banging at either end of its path. Thud, thud, thud. What the heck is that noise? Our ears perk up, listening for each thud as our bodies rock around around in bed. Then we’ll find ourselves doing an hour’s worth of cat-and-mouse hunting, as we try to figure out what’s making the noise and squelch it. Sometimes the sound is in a cockpit locker, making for a naked dash outside to repack the locker so everything stays put.
Sometimes the boat plays games with us at night. As it swings at anchor it faces beam to the sea for a while and then swings to face bow to the sea, moving in a slow 90 degree arc back and forth all night long. When the boat finally turns all the way so the swell is on the bow, the side to side motion suddenly stops. Ahh… such sweet relief! We sink back into delicious oblivion and sleep steels over us. For a few seconds. Then the boat gradually swings back on its arc to put the beam towards the sea, and the noise and motion begin once again.
Anchoring all over the west coast of Mexico, we’ve become apprentices in the fine art of taking a shower on board, which can be an adventure unto itself, as well as landing a dinghy on the beach, which is frequently a true water sport of the wettest kind!
When we visited friends in the Las Hadas Resort Anchorage and stood on their balcony enjoying the view of Manzanillo Bay, we suddenly noticed a container ship leaning way over on its side. Wow! We watched for a few seconds and it slowly rolled all the way over to the other side. Holy Mackerel! What was it like to be on that ship, and what did all those containers sound like as the boat moved? I don’t know, but it sure makes a great animation to watch from a solid foundation on sweet Terra Firma.