April 5-18, 2009 - We left Chanute, Kansas in a blast of cold headwinds.
Those miserable winds pummeled us all the way across Oklahoma,
Texas and New Mexico. We were totally windblown by the time we
arrived in Arizona, and we were utterly fed up with fighting it every time
we set foot outside the trailer. Our usual mileage of 10 mpg while towing
dropped as low as 7.7 through parts of Oklahoma, and for the entire trip
across country our average was a dismal 8.5.
The truck and trailer looked like heck when we got to Arizona, and
we did too. So it was with great excitement that I opened our door
and looked out at the lake on our second morning and felt not just
warm sun on my skin but the sweetest of gentle breezes on my
face. This is one of those areas that is a little jewel on our planet.
Coming into Windy Hill
Recreation Area there
is a fantastic curvy
road, and I spent
several happy hours on
two different days
running up and down
the road getting
pictures of RVs as they
drove past.
Roosevelt Lake was damed in 1911, and at the time was the
largest man-made lake in the world. We had lived in Phoenix,
next door to this little piece of heaven, for years, yet we had
never been there. I couldn't believe how beautiful it was. If we
had known about it, we would have camped there every spring
and fall weekend in our popup tent trailer.
The lake is open to boaters of all kinds, and a marina sits next to the
visitors center. There are lots of houseboats at the marina. What a fun
place to roost for a while.
We had ridden our bikes on just about every road in the area
with various organized bike rides over the years, but the one
spectacular road that runs alongside the lake was a whole new
discovery for us.
Everything seemed to be in bloom when we arrived, and the high winds
had blown every bit of dust and pollution to kingdom come, so the air
was crisp and clear.
The lake was full to overflowing, and the views in every direction were filled
with the promise of spring.
We were
blessed with a
full moon during
our stay, and a
group of birds
swooped back
and forth in front
of the moon as it
rose one
evening.
The entire lake is smack in the middle of Tonto National Forest, so there
is virtually no development anywhere other than the slightly developed
campgrounds and an Indian cliff dwelling site nearby. I was amazed by
how many campgrounds there are, and how many campsites within each
campground. The USFS has closed several campgrounds and closed
many loops within the open campgrounds, probably because they just
don't get enough business to make it worthwhile to maintain it all.
The campgrounds are set along little peninsulas, and
many campsites have a waterfront view. Whoever
designed the campgrounds along this lake did an
outstanding job. There is boondocking too, but the
campgrounds are so spacious and pretty that we
opted for a waterfront site at the end of a peninsula
instead.
Throughout our visit the cameras just kept clicking. In
every direction we turned there seemed to be another
lovely shot. Friends of ours were camped nearby, and each
evening the discussion always seemed to wander back to the
various photos all of us had taken during the day.
One evening I came back from a bike ride to hear an excited discussion
around the campfire about a clump of clover and a bee. This little bee had
unknowingly become a supermodel for the afternoon, and we had fun
comparing all the different photos of him.
The Sonoran Desert is one of my favorite places. It extends
from Arizona into Sonora, Mexico, and is extremely lush, filled
with a wide variety of flowers, birds and cactus. It is the only
place in the world where the wise old saguaro cactus chooses
to live, and they rule the landscape with a myriad of
personalities, all seeming to wave a greeting to their fellow
cactus.
The saguaros that have a cluster of arms are often 150 years old or
more. Those cactus grew up in a very different world -- one with a
small river instead of a lake, for starters.
The main road hugs the lake for many miles, and on a few days we
ventured out to Tonto Basin, a small community at the far north end of
the lake. On those morning drives the hillsides were alive with bright
yellow flowers and towering cactus, looking down at the lake. In the
distance we could see Four Peaks, an aptly named mountain range
that makes a distinct landmark on the horizon when looking east from
Phoenix. Here we got to see its back side.
A bridge spans the river just before the dam, and every time you
drive by it begs you to take a picture.
On several days we went out in the kayak and pedaled and paddled
around. The wind resumed its howling every few days, so we had
some sloppy times on the water with the spray flying. But there were
some really calm days too. Those were times of heavenly relaxation
and serenity.
The lake is an interesting habitat because it is in the middle of the
richest Sonoran Desert land, but because the body of water is so large,
ducks, grebes and even seagulls set up housekeeping here too.
Whenever we would go out in the kayak we were always amazed to see
hundreds of grebes swimming around. They would alert each other to
our presence with frantic calls, and as we approached, one by one they
would dive underwater. At the same time we could also hear the calls of
the Gambel quail from their perches in the desert scrub along the shore.
The fishermen
complained that the
fishing wasn't too
good. That surprised
us, because we saw all
kinds of huge fish
leaping out of the
water as we paddled.
Maybe their noisy
powerboats were
scaring off their catch.
The cycling in
this area is
spectacular as
well. There are
a lot of
organized rides
sponsored by
the Arizona
bike clubs that travel many of the roads in this part of the state, however I
know of none that go along the lakeside road (route 188). It would be the
perfect location for an organized ride: stunning scenery, challenging climbs,
screaming descents, and lots of picnic areas for rest stops.
It's a gorgeous place, and we felt blessed to be able to spend a good bit of
time there.
A little cardinal sang his heart out on one of our last mornings there. He
seemed so happy to be alive. Roosevelt Lake makes you feel that way.
Sadly, we eventually had to pack up and go. We drove the beautiful
lakeside road one last time and then turned west once again to journey on
to California.